Watch This Before You Install Main Studs
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- ARP recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don't "twist" into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life (very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly and proper alignment of caps every time.
Watch us show why a main stud kit could be right for you.
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Chapters
0:00 Main Studs
0:32 Everyday Driver Truck
1:11 Price Point & Important Information
#arp #mainstuds #thoroughbreddiesel #dieselpower #diesellife #dieselporn #truckporn #cummins - Авто та транспорт
First
This dude knows what's up.
Anyone watching this vid, this process is only necessary if your going to the effort of line boring your engine.
If you want to save money,measure them yourself first. Torque the arps to spec. Measure your mains for out of roundness andmeasure all mains for alignment. If there out of spec, then get them line honed.
. If there within spec, you won't need a line hone.
Fine threads have higher torque values because of the extra friction of the increased thread surface area. The threads need to be perfect and mated as sets (stud, nut and washer and preferably with lapped faces) Threads need to be torqued a few times before the final torque to “break them in” as well. So do that before you send it to the machine shop if you’re worried about crankshaft bore distortion. I’m willing to bet that you’re stock bolts and these studs at the same stretch value have similar distortion because they’re applying the same (200,000 psi tensile strength steel) clamp loads. Like almost “0” distortion...I’ve never wiped out a set of bearings, had weird bearing shell crush or had uneven or abnormal wear using studs in place of bolts before. #1 rule of crankshaft installation...if the shaft and bores measure on size, you assemble it, it’s an absolute rule it needs to spin freely by hand. If you can’t turn it by hand there’s a major problem. Cylinder bores are prone to distortion right at the sealing area of the second ring...it’s a good idea to use a torque plate on the block deck during final sizing.
Info I'd never heard before and makes total sense thanks.
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Now would a girdle eliminate the need for line boring?
Been telling people this for years, it's a must
Awesome. :)
Solid, solid information here. Cant just slap the studs in and hope for the best. 😂
Good solid advice bunk auto n small eng
With this information in mind hehe I think it’s time I kicked the boost up a notch 😂
What if the torque values for arp studs and oem bolts are the same ( 110 ftlbs) would you still get it line hone?
Yes. Always good practice on main studs.
I’ve built many engines with main studs without having it line bored and none have failed me yet due to bearing failure just check it with a plastic gauge if it’s good it’s good
Yea it doesn’t make sens unless their was a problem to begin with that’s why they say to do it I bed to cover their arsh
It could get a smidge tighter cause of greater clamp force. Much less of an issue than rods. Plastigauge and smooth even torque spinning in block its good.
Is this the durmax with the broken crankshaft?
Yes, this is the LLY with the broke crank.
Who wouldn’t get a line bore with a broken crank ?
Just bought a set for a 24v cummins and closest line borer to me is 2 states away so guess im gonna full send it.
How has it held up???
@@CD24v haven't installed them yet, decided to fire ring it while its out so its been just a waiting game because my machinest has been booked, i butted the rings on the first 3 cylinders, dropped the engine off last week so hoping he'll have it done by Friday, he's mainstuded plenty of smaller engines so i talked to him about it he thinks with the size of the main caps there will almost be zero deflection especially if you've seen the enormous torque spec of the stock bolts if they didn't cause deflection the studs won't either. The studs torque to 130ft/lbs the stock bolts torqued in the neighborhood of 180-190ft/lbs.
Figured out he has a line bore for that very purpose but he said it would be a waste of time and money.
excellent video. Yes i am second.
Thanks!
The book said the tq for the studs on a 12 valve are 129 ARP is 125
I forgot to line hone it’s about the same oops hope I’m ok most of it is probably arp don’t want to be blamed for a bottom end that’s messed up to begin with
I just can't see the stud changing the line bore
Yes if it ant broke don’t fix it
Like a rod it can get a little tiny egg shape maybe, probly not much the cap is pretty tough.
Put the studs in and toque them the way the stud provider says and then let it sit for a week before you take it to the machine shop because it will pull the bearing bores out of shape. The machinist will know all about it.