How Would YOU Repair This HUGE Shopsmith Memento?
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- Опубліковано 23 чер 2024
- SHOP NOTES: I can think of several ways to attack this repair job, but what approach would you take? Which plan of attack would be most interesting to watch, of I were to record it? Either way, I can't wait to have this finished, so expect a follow-up in a couple days.
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I’d go horizontal and run in a bunch of dowels of varying lengths. This seems like the most fitting and MarkV centric repair path. If you want get fancy, mount circle of plywood as a backboard. Keep this a few inches off the edge and mount a ribbon strip of LEDs to it. This will give it a nice hovering glow on the wall. Just a thought.
I’d do a glue and dowel repair. No matter how you end up using it, it should provide sufficient strength.
If you’re bent of doing it with the Shopsmith, there are a couple ways. Dowel and use center finders. Or route out the back to accept either bow ties or some structural wood. Either way, you’ll need some hefty bar clamps while the glue is drying.
No matter which method you use, the most important step is to figure out your clamping strategy and perform a dry-fit before you apply the glue.
Because there is a lot of exposed surface area and because the parts align perfectly, you can accomplish a nearly invisible repair by simply gluing the two halves together. This would give you a nearly invisible glue joint.
Dowels could be added for strength, but any slight error would throw everything off, and I am not that confident in my abilities, so I would opt for a more foolproof method.
After gluing the sign back together, flip it face down on your bench and rout several cavities on the back to accommodate wooden patches that would be glued in place and sanded flat.
I have used this technique quite a few times with good results.
It looked like the break was was clean and all the stock is there. So I'd use Titebond II. For gluing I'd make a caul(s) for both sides and clamp with, bar or pipe clamps. The break must be about 25" or so I think 5 clamps would be needed. I had a old dinning room chair that the seat broke. The grain ran front to back on the chair and it broke the whole length. I glued it back together with Titebond and it's been in use for 4 years without an issue even over weight son in law uses it. What a great find!
I just joined some wood together using a DowelMax jig so that was my initial thought. I then thought that no matter what you fix it with it had to be done with a Shopsmith. Given the size of one of the pieces I lay down and waited for that idea to go away, yes it can be done but set up would be interesting. I suggest biscuits using a hand held machine since you are joining less than flat surfaces and biscuits handle slight alignment errors better than a series of dowels.
Another possibility would be to straighten/flatten the joint and use the design opportunity to put in an inlay of contrasting wood. With flat surfaces dowels become easier to use.
If you go with dowels then glue the two pieces together, let it set and then drill in from the edge and insert the dowels as a secondary operation.
I would use Titebond III and biscuits. Clamping the round shape might be a challenge. Maybe rolling the sign upside down and let the weight of the big piece hold the small piece in position while the glue sets.
Glue is the solution for the repair. If you plan to make it a table, then I would cover it with a piece of glass and secure it to a round base which provides cross grain support.
Using what "I" have in my shop, I would do the horizontal drill and dowel, since that is what I have in my shop.
Glue and clamp if the break will not show on the front. Reinforce with dowels after glue sets. Would think about cedar plugs to match the wood and hide the dowels, especially if used as a table.
I would glue first, then dowel. So, chip away any splinters from both pieces until they fit together co-planer and with a tight seam. Glue it, maybe consider a darker glue like TBIII. After the glue has set, use the Shopsmith or hand drill to drill several dowel holes spanning both pieces. A long drill bit is needed, and it's much easier to find a long skinny bit than a long large bit. So, the dowels will be thin too, so I would add more dowels than usual. The dowels will be exposed but only visible on the top which would be out of sight. If hiding the dowels is needed, after the glue is set, drill out a plug hole then glue in a grain-matched plug. Probably hide pretty well on that dark stain.
For future wall hanging and preservation, I would affix a 1/2 sheet of plywood to the back and add the hardware to the plywood not the sign. I would make oblong holes in the plywood in the direction of potential expansion/contraction and screw through the plywood into the back of the sign.
I would just use glue, as the joint alignment doesn't look to be a problem. It would be interesting to watch you do any of the ideas that you mentioned. I like the drill press mode over the horizontal boring or Shopsmith biscuit cutter. Good luck as it is a great piece of memorabilia.
I agree with glue the piece on and cover with glass if using as table. However I have seen many nice wood tables covered with a thick coat of clear epoxy that seems to hold up well.
Another vote for dowels and glue. The glue line needs the support of the dowels. Should then last a long time. I prefer snug fitting dowels over loose biscuits.
That is a terrific memento.
Dave.
Dowels
I'm not certain how heavy the sign is, but I like the glue and dowel recommendation with a backer board. An additional item to consider is the use of mending plates, or add a bow tie inlay on the back. All the suggestions depend on space or attachments with capacity using your Shopsmith equipment. Since the logo is a 4 ft diameter a jig or support system is a good excuse to, what I call, play or have quality time with your equipment.
I think I would first glue it and then insert a few dowels to reinforce the joint using the horizontal boring function. I know the dowels would be visible but that could be minimized with cross grain plugs. The boring setup in my opinion would be the best setup for maneuvering and controlling the slab during the drilling operation.
I would use dowels and Titebond III glue to re-attach the top piece (with clamps). I would use French Cleats to hang it on the wall to spread the stress over a larger area.
Whatever way you decided it’s going to make a great video
Sliding dovetails? That would never break again!
Just glue it, TB II is good enough. To mount/hang on a wall, I would consider any wall mounting system that avoids that area. If you're going to make a table, I would create an under table support, 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, so that the legs mount to that, and not directly into the sign, and put a piece of glass on top of it.
Being a ShopSmith sign, I'd opt to use the shopsmith tools to repair. I.e.. drill and dowel or biscuit, but I think the dowel would be easier.
all good comments . but i would consider couple things: any other cracks or likely breaks? intended use, load bearing in any way (like table) ? if so to either, glue a thin piece of backing plywood on the entire back as well.
I like the boring/drill method with dowels and glue. You got to use a Shopsmith to fix the Shopsmith sign! 😂 You can't use Kreg tools, that just wouldn't be right.
I would make a cut in the edge at both ends & lay in a spline across the grain. Maybe white oak for the strength but something that will expand the same amount may be a better wood choice. A bowtie on the back side or a few wedged dado battens could be fun too. Making the repair visible seems like an easy story starter if done artfully.
I would glue it, and then use screwed cleats on the back secured "breadboard style", using screws with washers and slotted screw holes in the cleats so that the wood can move. Dowels would be tough to locate given that the break is uneven.
Simply gluing it would be the easiest, but glue and a butterfly joint in the rear might be good too, finally dowels or biscuits are all good. In the end just gluing it would be the most expedient, you can use straps to put tension on it. So my vote is for glue and to not hang it from the top.
Dowel and aliphatic resin glue. Put masking tape next to the glue line so you can easily remove the squeeze out… without wetting/staining the sand blasted surface.
If you are going to use it as a tabletop… laminate thin (1/8”-7/64”) plywood to the back. Just cut it a bit smaller so it doesn’t show.
That’s what I’d do.
I don't think the method of repair matters as much as capturing your awesome action poses!!
Waiting for the poster!
Glue and biscuits, 1'x2" reinforcing (two) on the back from top to bottom.
TiteBond 3
The joint becomes stronger than the wood - should the wood. Matthias Wendel had a few videos showing the fact.
We’re it me, I’d glue and clamp. The split is verifiably gone it’ll be all but impossible to see where the split was and, AND! The junction is stronger than ever before.
What a nice gift. That is a testament to you, your integrity. Congratulations!
(Sorry about the lack of editing)
I would steer away from TiteBond 3 and go for a clear drying PVA adhesive.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376
It’s basically the same p
I was going to add more but hit the wrong key - anyway TiteBond wood glues are specifically formulated for wood. I use TiteBond 3 (longer set up time so your pieces can be adjusted) as it’s waterproof. I laminate woods and make bowls, tables, cutting boards.. It’s a really good high quality glue.👍👍
@@johnrice4273 I have some TiteBond 3 it *absolutely* does not dry clear. To suggest it is the same as a white clear drying PVA and as suitable for this sort of repair where you want it to be invisible is uninformed at best and IMHO disingenuous.
I would recommend several dowels normal to the break. I think that in combination with glue will give the strongest joint either hanging or used as a table. I would not recommend pocket holes or biscuits.
I'd go with the biscuit jointer.
West System Epoxy. Clamp if for 24 hours. Sorry for the non shopsmith comment.
Easiest to do (especially with precise alignment) would be glue, and depending on the glue, that could be as strong as the wood. Of the reinforcement methods you mention, I'd go dowel, because it's the one that uses a ShopSmith to fix the Shopsmith sign. I wouldn't really consider future table-use of the sign in this repair, because frankly, the wood looks too thin and brittle to make a good table without pretty serious bracing throughout anyway. At a minimum, some undercarriage crosspieces to use in leg mounting, but likely also either a piece of glass on top (which also keeps stuff out of the logo engraving), or a chamfered disk underneath (along with a thick poly coating on top to keep stuff out of the logo).
Think of it like a barrel head. I would bore holes and use dowels and glue. That should suffice for most applications.
Dowels or pocket screws just to help with the gluing(clamping)
I would support this as a wall hanging by using a small angle at the base (one or two) and you would only need 1 screw in that black sandblasted detail right below the damaged area.
Table however I think you already have the answer figured that out.
Since duct tape has already been spoken for, i propose bubblegun and bailing wire.
But seriously, horizontal borer.
Looks like there is a good fit between the two parts. So like many I say glue it. However I would use hide glue (liquid is fine) as it is strong but more importantly it is reversible if things don't go right or you change your mind in the future. I don't really think any additional reinforcement is needed if used as a table as a good glue joint is typically stronger than the surrounding wood and the break is so near the edge of that I would expect any handling load to be minimal.
I'm thinking some ca for a quick bond. Then a steel tire like a wagon wheel. The added benefit, you could weld eyes to it and hang that bad boy with a nice 1.25" link chain. Might have to reinforce the wall. But hey, I like to over think things, run not walk past the easy and effective solution. Really, horizontal bore, dowels and wood glue should be good.
Keep it simple
Glue it with biscuit joiner or dowels
I agree with the bow tie method. Will add more rigidity in the fault line. Added bonus is they look really nice when done correctly. Of course we all know whatever method you choose it will be the best choice and you will do an awesome job of it. Look forward to watching your work.
Dowels, biscuits, long screws, anything to reinforce a glued joint. Depending on the condition of the rest of the sign I'd consider gluing a thin 4' plywood circle onto the back of the whole thing.
ETA: If you plan on hanging it again at a minimum you should glue a wood backer behind the break to attach hangers.
biscuits, alignment will be critical and dowels will give you heartache and you're not going to want to hammer on that rounded corner.
Since screws alone proved to be inadequate, I'd use glue, screws and dowels to make a really strong joint. Use the drill press as you've configured it and drill and countersink a screw hole on one end of the break, drive in a screw, then do the same to the other end. Then unscrew the two pieces, apply glue and snug them together again with the two screws. When dry, remove the screws and drill dowel holes in where the screw holes were for strength. Glue in the dowels leaving them proud of the surface, cut them flush with a finishing saw, then stain them as close as possible to the original color. This should make a very strong joint.
The simplest answer is invariably the best. 4 or 5 x 4 inch nails hammered in from the side. Job done 😂
Personally, I think the doll pins are about as good and easy as anything and it is a method done on a shopsmith better than most any other press. Especially in home woodworking tools. You could butterfly from the front and back. If the crack still shows some times it look good an rustic and tasteful to have them inlayed in. It tells a story to it age. Biscuit joint I would not think would be near as Ideal for just because they do not have a milled edge. Pocket hole jig?.... Man I just hate those things so no. LOL I like the table Idea. Clean it up real good repair it put some legs under it and have a glass top it would be a awesome project. I like the inlay butterfly, they tell a story...... I got an owie but I am okay, plus carpenters or people who understand how complex the repair is will be impressed I am surprised they did not think to make a break room table out of it; If the split is a straight line that holds the sign in the right orientation & you intend to hang it back up I would consider getting a piece of half inch plywood 5 or 6 inches wide then rip in half with a 45 bevel. Attach one half covering the spit bevel down making a small french cleat Just glue it all up wit titebond 2, then a few pin nails to hold it down until the glue drys. I would stop them about a inch from each edge so you cant see them when hung up. Of course the other half you screw to the wall and you can just hang it up that away. I made a big ass sign a 4x8 shape of Oklahoma that had the medical marry jane cross and circle with the company logo in the center of the cross. It was lit up with leds from behind that outlined everything. It came out awesome but I hung it with 2 short 10 in cleats on on each side.
I would consider gluing it first, and after the glue had set and dried, flipping it over and using “bow ties” to reinforce if the thickness of the material will allow it. The bow ties could also be done anywhere where other “fault lines” exist.
I’ve never done bow ties but they seem straightforward enough. You can cut them out on the bandsaw and trace their outline onto the workpiece.
Then use your sharpening jig and get ready for some chislin!
First, let me ask, "Where did you go for the horizontal boring shot?" at about 1:33. I'm guessing either the equator, Middle Earth, or the clubhouse for the Flat Earth Society.
Secondly, there are a lot of more experienced people to ask for woodworking advice than me.
Thirdly, that said, I like the glue up suggestions incorporating plate glass if used as a table in the future. The french cleat hanging ideas have my vote as well. I will say, I seem to recall something about the resin quality to redwood that might make gluing it tricky.
Lastly, I get more experience every time I read comments on your posts. Thank you.
Just use Titebond III glue and clamp using bar clamps with cauls custom sized for the circular shape. Forget all fasteners. Glued correctly, it will be stronger than any other method.
My 2 cents says horizontal boring with dowels. Terrific bit of memorabilia!
Horizontal boring or (for video interest) verticle drill press. Either way the dowells and glue will be strong. Next, figure out the best way to put wall mounts and use it as a backdrop, until you make a cool table out off it…haha
I think I would go with easy and just glue and pocket holes.
Glue and wooden dowels
Glue & dowels or Glue & biscuits or just Glue. Keep it as a wall mount, not a table. Once glued and doweled a thin piece of 1/4” or so machined wood/plywood cut same size as the small broken piece, but just an inch longer the full diameter. Glue & clamp. No one will ever see the crack.
Just found your channel because I watched the Malarky video.🤡 About the Sign I would repair it on the ShopSmith with horizontal dowels at different angles. Being a machinist, I have always admired the ShopSmith from afar. They are on MP for sale all the time around here. I may have to start looking closer at getting one of my own.
All you need to do is use Titebond glue and clamp it. That will be as strong or stronger than any of your other methods and take a lot less time.
My inclination would be to glue it. In general, a proper glue joint is as strong, or stronger than the wood around it. If you are going to use it as a table, hopefully you will do something to protect the surface, such as a piece of plate glass, so it shouldn’t need much more protection.
Super glue and then encase it in clear epoxy. Or cut it up and use it in other projects. Everyone likes free wood.
lot of glue suggestions....main problem is squeeze out....don't think you want to disturb original finish...any touch up certainly noticeable... possible use 3/8 double threaded bolts (machine threads/wood thread type)..'.this would allow for compressing the pieces together for a very tight joint probably next to unnoticeable...there would be plugs to cover the holes though close to same cosmetic result as dowels..... as table you probably want to use a glass top on it or you could clear epoxy the top...
Glue will fix the actual break i think. If there are signs the area has several fractures then tenons or dowels would be my next level repair. last would be to add the steel "C" channel supports across the back if you consider redwood too weak for a table. Thanks for the video.
I would use glue and either dowels or floating tenants. If you are going to use it as a table i would reenforce it with c channel and top it with clear appoxy
Gotta go with the simple glue and dowel on this one.
If there is only one clean fracture, I would glue it with Titebond 1 or 3 then rout 2 or 3 straight-sided pockets across the joint on the back side. I'd make the pockets about half the sigh thickness. Fill the pockets with "tenons" almost like a butterfly but with straight sides. I'd do some reinforcing on the back because the fractured edge does not give a good reference surface to work from.
My initial thought is horizontal bore, dowel, glue and clamp as a repair. This may also work for the repair if you make it into a table, but I would reinforce the underside with a plywood or solid wood round.
The thing about collectibles is that to be worth more the next collector isn’t going to want to see a lot of repair or modification. I would glue it. Since it’s on the top you don’t need a lot of strength. I assume you will be hanging it on the wall. If you try to use dowels or biscuits you run a risk or damage or fitment unless you do a perfect job. Drilling from the outside will leave evidence of the fix.
If this was mine: If it will only be hanging on the wall, glue only, but a better mounting system is absolutely necessary. If the glue does not seem strong enough dowels drilled through from the edge. If it was to be used as a table, a full size of piece of thin ply (door skin) over the entire back would prevent future splits.
From what I see, I would dowels and glue. Suggestion, if I hung it on the wall I would put it on a french cleat. The french cleat could be made with thinner material and not 3/4" board. I bought an aluminum one a long time ago that only was 1/4". Depending on weight I might use more than one. Thanks.
I’d just glue it. If you looked closely at it I bet you find that it’s just a bunch of pieces glued together to make it in the first place. Have faith in the glue it will never fail at the glue joint.
@@thomasfrates You are correct. If I knew for a fact that it would only ever be used as a sign, that’s what I would have done.
I would use biscuits with a portable biscuit joiner and glue, if not that, I would make grooves and insert a full length spline,
Glue really should be sufficient strength. Otherwise, I'd drill a few holes & insert dowels. Not a fan of biscuits... Seen too many popped connections on others' tables.
This is Shopsmith! Forget the Kreg. Horizontal bore and strong glue or epoxy.
I think a glue and dowel repair would be the best and the strongest. Also, skip the idea of a table. Use it the way it was intended.
I don’t think it’s worth repairing. I’ll come haul it away for you free of charge. I’m only a couple hours from Charlotte… JUST KIDDING.
I vote for glue & bow ties on the back side. Below are my thoughts on the other repairs.
I like the glue and steel band idea (like an old wagon wheel). That would reinforce & make it look nice.
I also like glue & dowel but getting perfect dowel alignment is darn near impossible on that. To get good alignment on dowels, I would glue it and let it set. Then come back & reinforce with longer dowels from the outside through the joint. No problem with alignment but the end of the dowel would show.
If you hang it I like the cleat idea.
You could do something radical like cut the sign below the fracture with the band saw, glue the fractured piece together & let set, drill dowels up from the fresh cut side through the glued fracture and glue them in. Then biscuit & glue the fresh cut back together.
That’s a very generous offer,
Arc weld it eh?
Dude, it's NOT ironwood!
I can’t believe no one has suggested duct tape… problem solved.
If you look closely at the video, the temporary fix was duct tape!
PLEASE-Don’t use that cool sign as a table. Repair it and use it as a sign! It needs to be seen and displayed!
Dowels and glue using horizontal boring
Please do not ever again stand on the wall and do that creepy smiling "boring"-motion thing. 😬😄
I mean, it was creative but holy heebie jeebies, Batman! 😳
Agreed.
Horizontal boring. Don’t have to worry about the sign rolling while under pressure of the drill bit.
Also, I am totally jelly of you for having that sign.