2 things that set my roofing ocd off... Excellent work as per usual Stuart... But I’m a advocate for nice clean lines around a chimney So bringing the step flashing out over the slates is something I personally would not do .. But that’s my ocd at work (literally..!) And No:2 is ... I noticed when u walked around the roofer had opted for a cement/undercloak Verge on a slate roof...! Not only that but it was full of expanding foam as a dub coat ...! Which to me means more work and more eventual maintenance when it starts falling out over time .... Never understood doing cement verges on slate... and on a new roof as well... Absolutely no need in my opinion... But apart from that.... Excellent work my friend.. Cheers Chris..👍🇬🇧
Thank you. To be honest I hardly ever bring the lead out onto slates. But I actually quite like the look and it matches all the other elements of the chimney weathering that also come out away from the stack.
slb lead works I know wot u mean Stuart... I must confess I do do it if it’s on a profile tile chimney... There’s something about the symetricallity of the chimney being square and the lead being proportionally square around it..(if the chimney is in the middle of the roof ..)...coupled with the squareness of the profile tile and the lead dressed squarely into it ... with the same profile pattern spreading over the squareness of the whole side Of the roof.. is a beautiful thing to behold....(see, I also have roofing ocd..!) but the best part is u know the customers eye is gonna be drawn to the shining freshly paternated jewel in the center of it... And that’s exactly as it should be... Cos a well executed piece of leadwork on view to all is always a thing to admire... and is always the thing that sets the job off the most and is the bit yr always most proud of as it is a true measure of the skill of the tradesman... And u sir... should be ,as I’m sure u are... very proud of yr work....as I am grateful to u for showing it to us to admire ..,and relieved to know that out there.. art such as this .. carried out by a true artisan and master of his craft exists for those initiated & uninitiated to admire ... and also showing an excellent standard to workmanship level to strive to when doing yr own work.... Always a pleasure to watch yr videos... May there be many more my friend ... Much love to u and yr family Chris...👍🙏🇬🇧
Could've done with this video 6 mths ago 😂 cracking work as ever Stuart 👌 Re the flashing sitting on top of the slates speaking as a non roofer, I didn't know it could be an option so really glad to see other ways of doing things🙏
Thank you. Yes this can be done like this although bringing the lead out like this is usually only used on single lap tiles. A normal 150 step flashing would have been sufficient.
2 things that set my roofing ocd off... Excellent work as per usual Stuart... But I’m a advocate for nice clean lines around a chimney So bringing the step flashing out over the slates is something I personally would not do .. But that’s my ocd at work (literally..!) And No:2 is ... I noticed when u walked around the roofer had opted for a cement/undercloak Verge on a slate roof...! Not only that but it was full of expanding foam as a dub coat ...! Which to me means more work and more eventual maintenance when it starts falling out over time .... Never understood doing cement verges on slate... and on a new roof as well... Absolutely no need in my opinion... But apart from that.... Excellent work my friend.. Cheers Chris..👍🇬🇧
Hi Chris thank you. To be honest I usually don’t bring the lead out onto the roof unless I need too. I know that a normal step flashing would have been sufficient. I do however quite like the look of a step and cover on slate but I’d say 9 times out of 10 I just do a normal step flashing. As to the roofing side of things I’ve seen the roofer run the verge all different kind of ways. Sometimes he uses slates. I’ve also seen him use tiles before.
@@Cris.d.em71 I like to hang the slate out over the barge by an inch or so. There's a bit of play with the trims so I can gauge out the roof for fulls, slate and a half or doubles. The trim gives a nice finish to the verge as well I believe.
Thank you I’m glad your liking the vids. Well I wouldn’t say I get paid top money. The truth is Id probably earn more if I threw it in and didn’t care what it looks like. But it’s not me. Id rather spend longer on a job and walk away happy that I’ve done a good job.
Always keep the standard up the ones that dog it in might make more in the short term but don’t last very long in my experience. The people who do the best work will always have work.
Hi Stuart. Loving the videos and it’s brilliant that you’ve started showing more of the process! Really appreciate it! Any tips on installing a back-gutter without welding gear? Thanks for sharing your work/craft/skills!
Thank you I’m glad your enjoying the vids and yes I’m trying to show more of the process now when ever I can. I’m hoping to invest in a mic soon to make the audio quality better too. To boss a back gutter I would say allow plenty of time. And make sure your using code 5 at least. To be honest I haven’t done this since my college days.
Hi there, great vid, l think the tin soakers are corroded under my flashing, do you think your style of flashing over the slate as per this video probably means l can bypass the soakers issue and fit new step flashing in your method here? Thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching. If I was you ld replace the soakers as you still need them even though I have brought the lead over the slates. You can still get something known as the angle of creep. As the water works its way under the lead it will slowly start to work its way towards the stack.
@@slbleadworks i was a roofer for years and often wanted to do lead work but never really got to do that much ,however im getting a kit from noz-alls to do some welding with the CWS model o torch like yours. i always wait to see your work and keep it going.
Hi Stewart how do you make the lead look like a pie 🥧 edging. Like when you do scollop lead. Or just flashing some jobs. I see some one on you tube do it can’t find em.
I suppose if it doesn’t leak you can do what you want. However, we only put lead UNDER natural slate / man made slate and OVER concrete tiles. I’ve seen you do the complete opposite ?? Next time you’re out driving around take a look at other roofs and see how others do it . I think you’ll find lead on top of slate is a complete no no.
I get that it's standard practice to put lead under slate but why is that so?? Is it to do with appearance to the eye (how it looks from the street) or that it may move in a storm? Just curious because as you say lead is layed over concrete tiles and l guess the lead doesn't move off the tile in a storm.
Okay, makes sense. I have enjoyed watching all your work, it looks amazing. do you do that with a 2nd piece folded under a join higher up, so in effect there is 2 layers of felt with the back gutter in between? or can you just slide the back gutter under the existing felt? I find this is is the part that is most critical, would be great to see a video of just this piece if there is one?
Another tip, especially if you have OCD, Chase your joints while felt and battened, never on the finished roof. School boy error. And store your lead in the dry, that oxidation looks discusting. Your OCD is broken. Lol
Yes In a perfect world it would be ideal to chase the joints out before it’s slated. But this is an occupied property. The existing lead had to be kept in to keep it watertight until it was ready for new leadwork. Also as already mentioned I didn’t supply the lead and had no control over where it was stored. I hate oxidisation on lead too. But you can only work with what your given. And actually once it was oiled it was hardy noticed. Believe me my OCD is fully working.
@@slbleadworks lol, fair play. I would have bollocked the client for lead storage as oil won't remove the oxidising, And as for the lead had to be left in place that is just incorrect as after 42 years in the game I have always chased the walls at the stripping stage and have never has ingress issues. Try it, It will improve your videos and stop assolez like me picking out every mistake. Keep up the good work.
Try using a new but of lead not some old oxide bit been left in damp stores Yh and wat the other guy said Ali soakers on lead tut tut no guarantee on that work
These are not aluminium soakers they are zinc. Zinc soakers will not deteriorate when in contact with lead like aluminium does. Also I did not supply the materials and I can only work with what I’ve been given.
Oh it never stops to fuel, That lovely slate roof, What on earth is undercloak doing on a slat roof. Jesus Christ this gets worse by the minuet. Have a word stu you customers are making you look a right twat. Surly you should have pointed this out to them. Don't tell me that they are going to point that with cement. That will be on.the floor in a year.
I live in South of England and been Roofing for 32 years and fit step cover flashings to many chimneys with slate and plain tiles, specially along coastal areas, you will find most chimneys have them in this area. So in my eyes not a waste of time, if fitted correctly work perfectly OK and out performs just a step flashing. Some jobs I go to can be up to 80 years old and still performing, the old timer's knew there stuff.
@@tk2097 that is correct, but they would have been used for many years with zinc, tin or even alloy soakers, or serect gutters. You also have to consider, pitch of roof, exposure and run of water above this point, why they may have used a cover flashing. It will also slow down driving rain reaching the soaker area, prolonging life if correct width cover is achieved. On minimum pitch roofs without cover flashing, the soaker can collect dirt, moss etc and block in time. Most soakers are code 3, without cover flashing they will last 30 years+, with a cover flashing, fitted correctly when brought down to meet bottom of front apron, 75mm return at front and clipped, will last a lifetime, specially in code 5.
Great work as usual. Speaking as a roofer/leadworker I have no issue with how you've detailed this.
Agree
2 things that set my roofing ocd off...
Excellent work as per usual Stuart...
But I’m a advocate for nice clean lines around a chimney
So bringing the step flashing out over the slates is something I personally would not do ..
But that’s my ocd at work (literally..!)
And No:2 is ... I noticed when u walked around the roofer had opted for a cement/undercloak
Verge on a slate roof...!
Not only that but it was full of expanding foam as a dub coat ...!
Which to me means more work and more eventual maintenance when it starts falling out over time ....
Never understood doing cement verges on slate... and on a new roof as well...
Absolutely no need in my opinion...
But apart from that....
Excellent work my friend..
Cheers
Chris..👍🇬🇧
Thank you. To be honest I hardly ever bring the lead out onto slates. But I actually quite like the look and it matches all the other elements of the chimney weathering that also come out away from the stack.
slb lead works
I know wot u mean Stuart...
I must confess I do do it if it’s on a profile tile chimney...
There’s something about the symetricallity of the chimney being square and the lead being proportionally square around it..(if the chimney is in the middle of the roof ..)...coupled with the squareness of the profile tile and the lead dressed squarely into it ... with the same profile pattern spreading over the squareness of the whole side
Of the roof.. is a beautiful thing to behold....(see, I also have roofing ocd..!)
but the best part is u know the customers eye is gonna be drawn to the shining freshly paternated jewel in the center of it...
And that’s exactly as it should be...
Cos a well executed piece of leadwork on view to all is always a thing to admire... and is always the thing that sets the job off the most and is the bit yr always most proud of as it is a true measure of the skill of the tradesman...
And u sir... should be ,as I’m sure u are... very proud of yr work....as I am grateful to u for showing it to us to admire ..,and relieved to know that out there..
art such as this .. carried out by a true artisan and master of his craft exists for those initiated & uninitiated to admire ...
and also showing an excellent standard to workmanship level to strive to when doing yr own work....
Always a pleasure to watch yr videos...
May there be many more my friend ...
Much love to u and yr family
Chris...👍🙏🇬🇧
Always enjoy you vlogs, Stuart. Lovely workmanship as usual. 👍🏻
Thank you Alex
Could've done with this video 6 mths ago 😂 cracking work as ever Stuart 👌
Re the flashing sitting on top of the slates speaking as a non roofer, I didn't know it could be an option so really glad to see other ways of doing things🙏
Thank you. Yes this can be done like this although bringing the lead out like this is usually only used on single lap tiles. A normal 150 step flashing would have been sufficient.
2 things that set my roofing ocd off...
Excellent work as per usual Stuart...
But I’m a advocate for nice clean lines around a chimney
So bringing the step flashing out over the slates is something I personally would not do ..
But that’s my ocd at work (literally..!)
And No:2 is ... I noticed when u walked around the roofer had opted for a cement/undercloak
Verge on a slate roof...!
Not only that but it was full of expanding foam as a dub coat ...!
Which to me means more work and more eventual maintenance when it starts falling out over time ....
Never understood doing cement verges on slate... and on a new roof as well...
Absolutely no need in my opinion...
But apart from that....
Excellent work my friend..
Cheers
Chris..👍🇬🇧
Hi Chris thank you. To be honest I usually don’t bring the lead out onto the roof unless I need too. I know that a normal step flashing would have been sufficient.
I do however quite like the look of a step and cover on slate but I’d say 9 times out of 10 I just do a normal step flashing.
As to the roofing side of things I’ve seen the roofer run the verge all different kind of ways.
Sometimes he uses slates. I’ve also seen him use tiles before.
I really agree with you about the verge Cris, it’s shockingly poor form on the roofer’s part…
On a slate roof I just use a slate trim to finish the verge, 👍🔨🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut if the gable end barge boards are put up as high as the batten ends u shouldn’t need a trim at all…👍
@@Cris.d.em71 I like to hang the slate out over the barge by an inch or so. There's a bit of play with the trims so I can gauge out the roof for fulls, slate and a half or doubles. The trim gives a nice finish to the verge as well I believe.
Top work as always love these videos of people who know what they are doing hope you get paid top money because what you do many roofers carnt do
Thank you I’m glad your liking the vids. Well I wouldn’t say I get paid top money. The truth is Id probably earn more if I threw it in and didn’t care what it looks like. But it’s not me. Id rather spend longer on a job and walk away happy that I’ve done a good job.
Always keep the standard up the ones that dog it in might make more in the short term but don’t last very long in my experience. The people who do the best work will always have work.
Very neat and tidy job. 👍
Thank you
Hi Stuart. Loving the videos and it’s brilliant that you’ve started showing more of the process! Really appreciate it!
Any tips on installing a back-gutter without welding gear? Thanks for sharing your work/craft/skills!
Thank you I’m glad your enjoying the vids and yes I’m trying to show more of the process now when ever I can.
I’m hoping to invest in a mic soon to make the audio quality better too.
To boss a back gutter I would say allow plenty of time. And make sure your using code 5 at least. To be honest I haven’t done this since my college days.
Hi there, great vid, l think the tin soakers are corroded under my flashing, do you think your style of flashing over the slate as per this video probably means l can bypass the soakers issue and fit new step flashing in your method here? Thanks
Thank you and thanks for watching.
If I was you ld replace the soakers as you still need them even though I have brought the lead over the slates. You can still get something known as the angle of creep. As the water works its way under the lead it will slowly start to work its way towards the stack.
Looks great 👍
Thank you
love your work bud.
Thank you. And thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Are you in the trade ?.
@@slbleadworks i was a roofer for years and often wanted to do lead work but never really got to do that much ,however im getting a kit from noz-alls to do some welding with the CWS model o torch like yours. i always wait to see your work and keep it going.
Unbelievable Stewart 👍
Thank you
Hi Stewart how do you make the lead look like a pie 🥧 edging. Like when you do scollop lead. Or just flashing some jobs. I see some one on you tube do it can’t find em.
I suppose if it doesn’t leak you can do what you want. However, we only put lead UNDER natural slate / man made slate and OVER concrete tiles. I’ve seen you do the complete opposite ?? Next time you’re out driving around take a look at other roofs and see how others do it . I think you’ll find lead on top of slate is a complete no no.
I think we will have to agree to disagree on that one.
But thanks for watching.
@@slbleadworks Ask an Architect what soakers are ?
I get that it's standard practice to put lead under slate but why is that so?? Is it to do with appearance to the eye (how it looks from the street) or that it may move in a storm? Just curious because as you say lead is layed over concrete tiles and l guess the lead doesn't move off the tile in a storm.
Well done
Thank you and thanks for watching
Hello. Can I ask if the back flashing goes under or over the felt?
The felt goes over the back gutter
Okay, makes sense. I have enjoyed watching all your work, it looks amazing. do you do that with a 2nd piece folded under a join higher up, so in effect there is 2 layers of felt with the back gutter in between? or can you just slide the back gutter under the existing felt? I find this is is the part that is most critical, would be great to see a video of just this piece if there is one?
Another tip, especially if you have OCD,
Chase your joints while felt and battened, never on the finished roof.
School boy error.
And store your lead in the dry, that oxidation looks discusting.
Your OCD is broken. Lol
Yes In a perfect world it would be ideal to chase the joints out before it’s slated. But this is an occupied property. The existing lead had to be kept in to keep it watertight until it was ready for new leadwork.
Also as already mentioned I didn’t supply the lead and had no control over where it was stored. I hate oxidisation on lead too. But you can only work with what your given. And actually once it was oiled it was hardy noticed. Believe me my OCD is fully working.
@@slbleadworks lol, fair play.
I would have bollocked the client for lead storage as oil won't remove the oxidising,
And as for the lead had to be left in place that is just incorrect as after 42 years in the game I have always chased the walls at the stripping stage and have never has ingress issues.
Try it,
It will improve your videos and stop assolez like me picking out every mistake.
Keep up the good work.
Or did u weld it
Yes they are welded. Thanks for watching.
Perfect apart from the aerial and dish !
Yes they always seem to be in the way
@@slbleadworks No matter, tho,a lovely job.
Quality work mate ! I would like to see you actually do the work . Haven’t you got a labourer to film you ?
Thank you.
No I always work on my own. I was thinking about getting a go pro so I can film more of the process.
@@slbleadworks your work is quality would like to see you doing the process of what you do mate maybe get a tripod and sit on the scaffold ??
Why did you leave the return on the step flashings
Just because it was the look the client wanted.
Thanks for the reply
Tap it up with the tapper
You got it
You haven’t dressed the front tray around the corner
Yes it’s a 150mm welded corner to the front apron.
No need to put extened lead on step flashimg on to slates. It looks a mess. Just step flash into soakers!!
Yes i know it’s not needed but the customer wanted it
@@slbleadworks fair comment mate! Sorry!
You don't do step and cover on slate, end of. Flashing and soakers, simples.
Thanks for watching
Aluminium soakers tut tut, on natural slate, 🤔
Lsa spec lead on lead
These are zinc soakers the roofers use. But I know really they should be using lead.
That is a terrible way to counterflash. It is not water tight. Wind blown rain gets in at every course.
Thanks for watching.
Try using a new but of lead not some old oxide bit been left in damp stores
Yh and wat the other guy said Ali soakers on lead tut tut no guarantee on that work
These are not aluminium soakers they are zinc. Zinc soakers will not deteriorate when in contact with lead like aluminium does. Also I did not supply the materials and I can only work with what I’ve been given.
Mate, get a go pro and film the work.
Yes I think I need to look into it.
Oh it never stops to fuel,
That lovely slate roof,
What on earth is undercloak doing on a slat roof.
Jesus Christ this gets worse by the minuet.
Have a word stu you customers are making you look a right twat.
Surly you should have pointed this out to them.
Don't tell me that they are going to point that with cement.
That will be on.the floor in a year.
I just do the lead side of things I wouldn’t know about the slates etc.
Don't like the way u turned the lead out untidy looking and no need for it as soakers are in
Your not alone on this one
Please never use cover on slate or plain tile,
It's a definite waste of lead and does absolutely nothing.
@@slbleadworks a Slater worth his salts would not have cover flashings,
It just don't belong lol.
Keep up the superb lead work though,
Great vids.
I live in South of England and been Roofing for 32 years and fit step cover flashings to many chimneys with slate and plain tiles, specially along coastal areas, you will find most chimneys have them in this area. So in my eyes not a waste of time, if fitted correctly work perfectly OK and out performs just a step flashing. Some jobs I go to can be up to 80 years old and still performing, the old timer's knew there stuff.
@@clivefox5072 as long as it's bossed in neatly I've no issues but I often see it done like this because they haven't fitted soakers.
@@tk2097 that is correct, but they would have been used for many years with zinc, tin or even alloy soakers, or serect gutters. You also have to consider, pitch of roof, exposure and run of water above this point, why they may have used a cover flashing. It will also slow down driving rain reaching the soaker area, prolonging life if correct width cover is achieved.
On minimum pitch roofs without cover flashing, the soaker can collect dirt, moss etc and block in time.
Most soakers are code 3, without cover flashing they will last 30 years+, with a cover flashing, fitted correctly when brought down to meet bottom of front apron, 75mm return at front and clipped, will last a lifetime, specially in code 5.
Thank you
Lovely work as always Stuart 🙂 I've messaged you on Instagram 👍
Thank you.
Oh ok I’ll take a look.