Thank you! You're the only one who has posted a clear and concise video on how to diagnose a VTEC malfunction. I really appreciated you pulling the VTEC off the cylinder head to really show where those probes should be going.
Very Informative Video , I have a 02 Accord Special Edition this may help other viewers. 1st I’d say Do Not use cheap parts at all , I had bought a VVT solenoid off Ebay and still getting P1259 which was the original preventative from the car passing smog. So it’s safe to say the Ebay part failed , I just bought a Dorman OEM VVT and on that it says make sure you do a oil change when changing it , Also it said make sure you use the right oil viscosity, Don’t listen to nobody at AutoZone or these parts places they aren’t mechanics put whatever manufacturer oil goes in if that’s 5W20 only put that because otherwise could cause the VTech solenoid not to work which is also connected to the Oil Pressure Sensor
Replaced my solonoid a while ago, check engine light went off for a week and came back on. Same problem. I will use this vid to troubleshoot further in a few weeks when its a bit warmer. Thank you.
Just a warning that i didn't think was covered here is the wrong oil grade. A good mate of mine replaced an engine on a Cr-v after the garage cocked up and left the oil filter loose resulting in a wrecked engine. He fitted a 2nd hand engine and put some oil he had sitting around in it. On road test the engine light came on. He found out he had the wrong grade of oil in it. Drained it out, put the correct oil in to it, cleared the fault codes and oil was all ok. Great video though!
@@henryec Yeah unused oil from the back of the garage so was probably 15-40 or may be 20-50 so to thick for the VTEC system to operate. Dropped it out, correct oil put in, all was good.
I think when you are checking the voltage across the leads with the ignition on, you should NOT allow the leads to come in contact with ground (i.e. the body).
For a tsx cl9 I’m sure this applies too , I removed her. To replace the gasket. However. , I did my oil change. , I’m sure she was leaking from so , I cleaned her. Brake cleaner . I put her back. , the car is having troubles starting. , , idk if it can be the ecu need to be reflashed ? It’s the stock og Acura ecu. , my key immobilizer on the dash symbol would keep blinking , idk at this point , definitely gonna refuel , I didn’t check the top gasket. And check for the motion. Etc.
Did you run low on/replace coolant? Did you properly purge all the air out of the system? Hondas can be tricky and keep air bubbles in the heater. Typically park front up on an incline, get a transmission funnel, remove the radiator cap and insert the funnel. The funnel needs to be a tight fit and Fill it to have coolant visible an inch or two up into the funnel(above the cap height) and start the engine. Set the heater control to full warm to open the heater valve. You should see occasional bubbles escape in the funnel as air purges, so Keep adding coolant to maintain that level. Increase engine RPM from time to time, run it there for a few minutes then let it return to idle. You want to keep this up until the temp gets high enough to trip the radiator fan(just over 185F) and both upper and lower rad hoses should be hot which means the thermostat has opened. At some point you should get heat out of the heater vents and no more bubbles, just an increase or decrease in the coolant level in the funnel from thermal expansion or contraction...
If this throws a P1259 error code, will it cause a CR-V to crank but not start? I’ve tried testing everything else (fuel, air, spark, fuses, & relays) except for this and the the timing chain on my 03 Honda CR-V.
Hey... I need your Help... Would you like to??? I Want to know how to Replace Dual Vtec (3Stage) wiring for Single Vtec.... I've recently Swapped My D16W9 Engine with D17A
Thank you! You're the only one who has posted a clear and concise video on how to diagnose a VTEC malfunction. I really appreciated you pulling the VTEC off the cylinder head to really show where those probes should be going.
Very Informative Video , I have a 02 Accord Special Edition this may help other viewers. 1st I’d say Do Not use cheap parts at all , I had bought a VVT solenoid off Ebay and still getting P1259 which was the original preventative from the car passing smog. So it’s safe to say the Ebay part failed , I just bought a Dorman OEM VVT and on that it says make sure you do a oil change when changing it , Also it said make sure you use the right oil viscosity, Don’t listen to nobody at AutoZone or these parts places they aren’t mechanics put whatever manufacturer oil goes in if that’s 5W20 only put that because otherwise could cause the VTech solenoid not to work which is also connected to the Oil Pressure Sensor
Bite the bullet buy Honda part .
Replaced my solonoid a while ago, check engine light went off for a week and came back on. Same problem. I will use this vid to troubleshoot further in a few weeks when its a bit warmer. Thank you.
Just a warning that i didn't think was covered here is the wrong oil grade. A good mate of mine replaced an engine on a Cr-v after the garage cocked up and left the oil filter loose resulting in a wrecked engine. He fitted a 2nd hand engine and put some oil he had sitting around in it. On road test the engine light came on. He found out he had the wrong grade of oil in it. Drained it out, put the correct oil in to it, cleared the fault codes and oil was all ok. Great video though!
Hey man, was the oil too thick
using 10-30 on a k22 on my ep3
@@henryec Yeah unused oil from the back of the garage so was probably 15-40 or may be 20-50 so to thick for the VTEC system to operate. Dropped it out, correct oil put in, all was good.
@@paulrobinson3528 oh shit alright maybe ill try that, appreciate you
Thanks a bunch! You explain every step extremely well. More people that upload tutorials should follow your lead...
I think when you are checking the voltage across the leads with the ignition on, you should NOT allow the leads to come in contact with ground (i.e. the body).
continuity is in the PRESSURE SWITCH, NOT THE SOLENOID. THE SOLENOID SHOULD SHOW 10-17 OHMS
Excellent Video. Very detailed.
Very well taught. Thank you
For a tsx cl9 I’m sure this applies too , I removed her. To replace the gasket. However. , I did my oil change. , I’m sure she was leaking from so , I cleaned her. Brake cleaner . I put her back. , the car is having troubles starting. , , idk if it can be the ecu need to be reflashed ? It’s the stock og Acura ecu. , my key immobilizer on the dash symbol would keep blinking , idk at this point , definitely gonna refuel , I didn’t check the top gasket. And check for the motion. Etc.
Thx great video .. If this solenoid starts to malfunction can it cause misfires?
It will buck and jerk just like it's misfiring.
Nice video, well presented
Very helpful.... thank you
great tutorial thank you For the information
Will the plunger move with applies voltage as a test or will it only work with pulsed voltage?
Hey can you do a video on how to fix the heater on an Acura TL. My air is blowing but no heat is coming out. Thanks
Check the coolant level.
Did you run low on/replace coolant? Did you properly purge all the air out of the system? Hondas can be tricky and keep air bubbles in the heater. Typically park front up on an incline, get a transmission funnel, remove the radiator cap and insert the funnel. The funnel needs to be a tight fit and Fill it to have coolant visible an inch or two up into the funnel(above the cap height) and start the engine. Set the heater control to full warm to open the heater valve. You should see occasional bubbles escape in the funnel as air purges, so Keep adding coolant to maintain that level. Increase engine RPM from time to time, run it there for a few minutes then let it return to idle. You want to keep this up until the temp gets high enough to trip the radiator fan(just over 185F) and both upper and lower rad hoses should be hot which means the thermostat has opened. At some point you should get heat out of the heater vents and no more bubbles, just an increase or decrease in the coolant level in the funnel from thermal expansion or contraction...
If this throws a P1259 error code, will it cause a CR-V to crank but not start? I’ve tried testing everything else (fuel, air, spark, fuses, & relays) except for this and the the timing chain on my 03 Honda CR-V.
My dl5b engine. Solenoid vtec don't have wire connect it.. Can I put wire n put at car body?
Great video!!
My solonoid on my honda del sol d16y8 from 1996 does not have a sensor to test to solonoid. it just has one big bold in it. What do i need to do?
so if the reading on the one wire connector us 20 ohms i need to change just the top half of the solenoid?
Can someone tell me what if vtec solenoid is on all the time. What is the consequence, is it bad, good for engine.
Thanks
i get voltage even with car off and no key? not sure how to go about that
What if I have copper and metal shavings blocking it
Hey... I need your Help... Would you like to??? I Want to know how to Replace Dual Vtec (3Stage) wiring for Single Vtec.... I've recently Swapped My D16W9 Engine with D17A
2:08 That symbol is for sound waves as in the speaker beeps when there is continuity.
I got 50 ohms😬
First
Second
69
This doesn't apply to 2006 honda crv. The whole thing is different. All testing methods in this video are unusable.
😂