I've done this job before. If you are going go through all this hassle. Regardless or not you should just go ahead and put new screens. If not the rubber seal is just going to continue to wear out. Then you will have a oil leak. Without knowing it. Also replace the O ring on the sensor. You can by the complete kit for about $10.00 bucks. I always say do it the right way not the cheap way.
Thanks for the feedback Jose, it's defiantly a good idea to replace the o-rings while you have it apart. Like you mentioned, it's cheap insurance to prevent anything from leaking down the road. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Also the other problem could be the connector to the oil sensor has cracked on top and is letting moisture get into the connector and causing it to fail.
well someone who is using the proper tools. I had a snap on owner work on my Vtec and he stretched the vtec bolts so badly with his snap on cordless driver and did not correct the problem.. so when i got in there with my little 1/4" drive, I left the bolt on the block.. i was not happy .. i've changed all my screened new Vtec and ill go 3000 + mi bump bump check engine lights comes back on... i get in and drive 50 mi it goes back out strangest thing i've ever had for a problem thank you for the video
Thanks for the comments, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element. It sounds like you have performed all the necessary steps in order to identify the issue. There is one more valve that we didn't discuss in our video that also has fine screens that can become clogged as well. In addition, that connectors can get corroded and not make a good connection to the valve. This will prevent communication to the ECM and it will default to limp mode. Be sure to clean all electrical connectors and use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion. Here is a good video that addresses the P1009 specifically since our video refers to the P2646 error code. ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html I know you mentioned the oil change was fresh and the motor has low miles but you can try the 5w-30 trick as well if the above don't solve anything. That seems to make things happier in most cases. VTC Oil Control Valve - #7 in the diagram www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~valve~assy~15830-raa-a01.html Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
I recommend cleaning up that capture well 4that tensioner nut& applying a few dollops of HONDABOND 2elimate the fall out problem which can waste a considerable amount of time. I usually don't clear codes as a way of testing the self clearing mode over time. If I bother 2open the VTEC spool or solenoid wells; I ALWAYS inspect &replace those filters. I like 2tie back that PS hose &that wiring harness w/2 bungie cords 4my comfort as those wire ties tend2 scratch me up.
Thanks for the comments Roger, appreciate the feedback. Our recommendation would be to get the engine good and hot before trying to remove them if you feel they may be corroded. The you will have to have long sleeves on and regular gloves to protect yourself from the hot exhaust in that area. They shouldn't be that tight unless someone else has already been in there and cranked them down more than they should. The torque spec is only 8.7 ft. lbs for those M6 10mm bolts. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
I wouldn't reuse the vtwc spool valve gasket. I wouldn't be shocked if things started leaking soon after. Also, many of the Honda models have another gasket thats inside the valve. The replacement kits usually include both.
Thank you for this video. Can you drive it with this code? Have taken it to 2 different machines, solonoids replaced, oil changed and still getting code.
Thanks for the question Sofia, sorry to hear you are still having trouble with your Element. You can drive with the code but it generally puts the car into limp mode where you cannot rev past 3k RPM. This makes it difficult to accelerate and you have to drive like your Grandma. Are you using Genuine Honda parts for the repair? Aftermarket Dorman or other brands are not reliable and the issue ends up remaining or comes back in a very short time. The P2646 is specific to the VTEC solenoid so if it is brand new and the front screen has also been cleaned, then you should be good. Doing the engine flush and fresh oil is more of a long term preventative measure to ensure you will not have any issue in the future. Let us know how it goes with you Honda project. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage It could also be water intrusion. That is the issue in my case since after heavy rainfall I get the code. After many warm days and it dries out my engine is fine. This video explains it. ua-cam.com/video/IYxfzEinEXQ/v-deo.html
I've done everything that you recommended. It ran fine for a couple of months and had the same problem. Do you think it could be a problem with my oil switch by the oil filter without my engine light coming on? Is there a screen near that area? Thank you in advance.
Only code I get is p1009 I replaced the front filter new and oem Honda VVt solenoid which when I pulled off they look new I replaced it anyways and also tested the solenoid and both was working and still getting code after 20 mins driving checked wiring not with meter but the connection look dry and wires look good can this vtec spool valve cause p1009 of it’s clogged ? Also lower miles and good oil changes no leaks(changed oil and topped of before even attempting anything and still new fresh oil and same code
Thanks for the comments Kyle, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element. It sounds like you have performed all the necessary steps in order to identify the issue. The P1009 is typically related to the front oil screen (behind PS Pump) or the Oil control valve (passenger side of cylinder head). That valve also has fine screens that can become clogged as well. Sometimes those connectors can get corroded and not make a good connection to the solenoid. This will prevent communication to the ECM and it will default to limp mode. Be sure to clean all electrical connectors and use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion. Here is a good video that addresses the P1009 specifically since our video refers to the P2646 error code. ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html I know you mentioned the oil change was fresh and the motor has low miles but you can try the 5w-30 trick as well if the above don't solve anything. That seems to make things happier in most cases. VTC Oil Control Valve - #7 in the diagram www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~valve~assy~15830-raa-a01.html Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Honda Emilio. The only thing that comes to mind is the brand of solenoid you used? Honda's are very picky when it comes to electronic parts. If it is not a Genuine Honda part, this might be causing your issue. If it is a genuine Honda part, and you have flushed and changed you oil, along with cleaning or new screens, there really isn't anything else that typically causes this issue besides wiring. Please let us know, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I used Carquest and then got a refund for it and got a NTK. With the NTK check engine come and goes, that's along with the limp mode. It comes and goes
Thanks for the question, we have not had the error code come up again since the repair. If it does come back, you will know that the Spool Valve is definitely bad and will need to be replaced. If you don't perform the cleaning and add fresh oil, then you will not be 100% sure what the issue is. Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Hello i have a 2006 honda civic si same code replace selinoid and plugs still geting same code does the vvt has to do something whith dint change the vvt selinoid
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Honda Carlos. There are (4) main causes for the P2646 code to come up. The first is the oil level, make sure it is at the FULL mark. The second would be clogged VVT screens. The third thing would be a faulty oil pressure sensor or bad wiring to the sensor. If all of the above are good then the only thing left would be the solenoid valve assembly itself is bad. There is also a small possibility that the wiring connection at the solenoid could be bad and not making a good connection. Those are really the only reasons why the P2646 code appears. Be sure to verify all of the above steps have been addressed and you should solve the issue. Let us know how things go, good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Sorry, but publisher is wrong. The vtech electrical connection is located where water can accumulate. Locate a vid that covers this topic before getting another solenoid.
Thanks for the tip James, that is another item that can cause this issue. Although less common than low oil and clogged screens, it can be an overlooked issue. Cheers!
Thanks for the question, we had things apart a few months back and thought that solved the issue. That's why we decided to make a video about all the steps, since cleaning the screen did not solve the issue. You can always try to clean the screen first and see if your problem goes away. If not though, you will be taking all of these same items back off again to perform the flush and replace the Spool Valve. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
No, this error code only affects the operation of the VTEC. This only comes into play above 3k RPM. Not wanting to start would be a different problem. Are you getting any other codes for the no start condition? Let us know, Cheers!
@sofiareix9902 Hi my car did the same thing, either slow cranking after sitting overnight or needing a jump after the weekend, and only during cold weather. Batteries lose charge faster when they’re cold, especially when they’re being used without being recharged (like driving). Turns out I had 2 parasitic battery draws on my 2007 Acura RDX (basically turbo CR-V): both the Bluetooth and AcuraLink units were dying and just needed to be unplugged. You may or may not have a similar issue, it could be a different electrical issue, but dead battery in cold weather indicates something is draining it. You can use a multimeter to check the battery voltage the next time it has that issue (there’s plenty of UA-cam videos on that). I solved mine by having a mechanic friend pull *all* codes, not just engine codes like small OBD code readers do, and it showed several repeating codes in the B-CAN system (audio and navigation systems, aka not engine codes) - B2204 B2207 B2208 B2209. Those can be googled, but I found the Service Manual online (not the owners manual! the service manual a mechanic would use, it’s way longer) and found all the codes and explanations as well as how to access them to unplug them. The tech in those is too outdated to bother with the cost and time of replacing. If you can’t find and do it yourself, a mechanic will have to diagnose the battery draw, which can take time and add up $$. Hope this helps.
I'm about to get a solenoid after we change oil. What we did is, we use two 5 liters oil 10w 40. The car is 2008 Honda RB1 odyssey, and the it is 180,000 Km which we use here in Australia and not miles. We drained the old first then use the first 10w 40 with engine oil flush. After 15 minutes we drained again, and use the second 10w 40 and replace the oil filter last. I use the OBD to erase the code. What my mechanic friends said, sometimes the rocker arm inside the engine has some praticles and sludge remaining that's why they told me to let it run and erase the code when the CEL come up again. I've done it probably 4 times erasing the code after Illuminated, then after 2 days the code is not showing up and runs like giving 5000 RPM and drive 80-100 km. So far, the code is not showing up until now after last was 5 days. But if it show up again, we will open the engine and check the wiring and rocker arm if it still stuck.
@@BradleysGarage just an update. The CEL is not showing up and we haven't change the solenoid yet. At the same time, we haven't open the top oil pan yet to check the rocker arm. But so far is still running as normal and the fuel efficiency has been improved.
Thanks for the question Leo, the engine flush is made by Liqui Moly. You can purchase the product here - www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro-line-engine-flush-500ml-can-liqui-moly-lm2037 Or from Amazon - www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Thanks for the comments Matt. There are three reasons why the P2646 comes up. 1. Low oil or dirty oil 2. Solenoid screens are clogged 3. VTEC Spool Valve Solenoid itself is bad You can perform an oil change or engine flush with oil change to rule out steep one. If the code returns, you will need to remove both screens to check for clogs. If after the screen cleaning the code returns, you know the Spool Valve is bad and will need to be replaced. Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage 1 and 2 are easy to do but if they don't fix it then you can't assume 3. Sometimes the pressure sensor is bad Sometimes the electrical connection is bad (e.g., loose connection or wet from water or oil leak). Honda Element Owners Club site goes into great detail. Many people have wasted money replacing the VTEC spool valve when that was not the problem. I'm not a mechanic, just a DIYer 2003 Element owner. I'm currently having this problem intermittently and trying to trace the source.
@@mattfoley6082 Thanks for the response, sorry if our reply made it seem like those were the only possibilities. The ones you pointed out can be a factor but are much less likely to be the issue. We currently have (3) Honda's with the 2.4L so these steps have helped solve all the issues we have had over the years with our cars. It has never been the pressure sensor or electrical connection for us. Good luck on your Honda project, thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
They can be a bit finicky sometimes but the K24A4 is a solid engine that will last for several hundred thousand miles if taken care of. We have been happy with ours and haven't had any real issues besides an A/C compressor going out. Cheers!
Thanks for the feedback, unfortunately if you have performed all the steps, you will have to replace the solenoid itself. Here is the link for A Genuine Honda 15810-RAA-A03 Spool Valve Assembly a.co/d/0PoTxqP Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
@BradleysGarage you are right it ended up being the oil pressure switch on my VTEC. I found an oem switch from the local junkyard and didn't have to spend a lot on buying a brand new OEM VTEC but I also disassembled my old one and replaced all the internal gaskets. The codes went off by themselves
Thanks for the save. My screen was clogged and ripped
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Great to hear that you were able to get yours all cleaned up and running good again. Cheers!
I've done this job before. If you are going go through all this hassle. Regardless or not you should just go ahead and put new screens. If not the rubber seal is just going to continue to wear out. Then you will have a oil leak. Without knowing it. Also replace the O ring on the sensor. You can by the complete kit for about $10.00 bucks. I always say do it the right way not the cheap way.
Thanks for the feedback Jose, it's defiantly a good idea to replace the o-rings while you have it apart. Like you mentioned, it's cheap insurance to prevent anything from leaking down the road. Thanks for hanging out, Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed video. I don’t have Hondas but it’s always good to know.
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
Also the other problem could be the connector to the oil sensor has cracked on top and is letting moisture get into the connector and causing it to fail.
Thanks for the tip, appreciate the feedback.
Cheers!
well someone who is using the proper tools. I had a snap on owner work on my Vtec and he stretched the vtec bolts so badly with his snap on cordless driver and did not correct the problem.. so when i got in there with my little 1/4" drive, I left the bolt on the block.. i was not happy .. i've changed all my screened new Vtec and ill go 3000 + mi bump bump check engine lights comes back on... i get in and drive 50 mi it goes back out strangest thing i've ever had for a problem thank you for the video
Thanks for the comments, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element. It sounds like you have performed all the necessary steps in order to identify the issue.
There is one more valve that we didn't discuss in our video that also has fine screens that can become clogged as well. In addition, that connectors can get corroded and not make a good connection to the valve. This will prevent communication to the ECM and it will default to limp mode. Be sure to clean all electrical connectors and use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
Here is a good video that addresses the P1009 specifically since our video refers to the P2646 error code.
ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html
I know you mentioned the oil change was fresh and the motor has low miles but you can try the 5w-30 trick as well if the above don't solve anything. That seems to make things happier in most cases.
VTC Oil Control Valve - #7 in the diagram
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~valve~assy~15830-raa-a01.html
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
I recommend cleaning up that capture well 4that tensioner nut& applying a few dollops of HONDABOND 2elimate the fall out problem which can waste a considerable amount of time. I usually don't clear codes as a way of testing the self clearing mode over time. If I bother 2open the VTEC spool or solenoid wells; I ALWAYS inspect &replace those filters. I like 2tie back that PS hose &that wiring harness w/2 bungie cords 4my comfort as those wire ties tend2 scratch me up.
Thanks for the tips, appreciate the feedback. That nut can be an issue if it falls out when reassembling things. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Any advice on removing stubborn spool assembly bolts, scared to break them …thanks, really good detailed video
Thanks for the comments Roger, appreciate the feedback. Our recommendation would be to get the engine good and hot before trying to remove them if you feel they may be corroded. The you will have to have long sleeves on and regular gloves to protect yourself from the hot exhaust in that area.
They shouldn't be that tight unless someone else has already been in there and cranked them down more than they should. The torque spec is only 8.7 ft. lbs for those M6 10mm bolts.
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
I wouldn't reuse the vtwc spool valve gasket. I wouldn't be shocked if things started leaking soon after. Also, many of the Honda models have another gasket thats inside the valve. The replacement kits usually include both.
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. We will keep tabs on it to see if there are any leaks that develop.
Cheers!
YES, definetly worth $13 for a new set!!! The gaskets eventually flatten out and cause oil leaks!
You are correct. I just commented on this. Just buy the kit. It cost like $10.00 buck. You get the two screens & the O ring. 👍
Awesome video Bradley!!!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
Thank you for this video. Can you drive it with this code? Have taken it to 2 different machines, solonoids replaced, oil changed and still getting code.
Thanks for the question Sofia, sorry to hear you are still having trouble with your Element. You can drive with the code but it generally puts the car into limp mode where you cannot rev past 3k RPM. This makes it difficult to accelerate and you have to drive like your Grandma.
Are you using Genuine Honda parts for the repair?
Aftermarket Dorman or other brands are not reliable and the issue ends up remaining or comes back in a very short time.
The P2646 is specific to the VTEC solenoid so if it is brand new and the front screen has also been cleaned, then you should be good. Doing the engine flush and fresh oil is more of a long term preventative measure to ensure you will not have any issue in the future.
Let us know how it goes with you Honda project.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage It could also be water intrusion. That is the issue in my case since after heavy rainfall I get the code. After many warm days and it dries out my engine is fine. This video explains it. ua-cam.com/video/IYxfzEinEXQ/v-deo.html
I've done everything that you recommended. It ran fine for a couple of months and had the same problem. Do you think it could be a problem with my oil switch by the oil filter without my engine light coming on? Is there a screen near that area? Thank you in advance.
Only code I get is p1009 I replaced the front filter new and oem Honda VVt solenoid which when I pulled off they look new I replaced it anyways and also tested the solenoid and both was working and still getting code after 20 mins driving checked wiring not with meter but the connection look dry and wires look good can this vtec spool valve cause p1009 of it’s clogged ? Also lower miles and good oil changes no leaks(changed oil and topped of before even attempting anything and still new fresh oil and same code
Thanks for the comments Kyle, sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element. It sounds like you have performed all the necessary steps in order to identify the issue. The P1009 is typically related to the front oil screen (behind PS Pump) or the Oil control valve (passenger side of cylinder head).
That valve also has fine screens that can become clogged as well. Sometimes those connectors can get corroded and not make a good connection to the solenoid. This will prevent communication to the ECM and it will default to limp mode. Be sure to clean all electrical connectors and use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
Here is a good video that addresses the P1009 specifically since our video refers to the P2646 error code.
ua-cam.com/video/YYKikGysXqE/v-deo.html
I know you mentioned the oil change was fresh and the motor has low miles but you can try the 5w-30 trick as well if the above don't solve anything. That seems to make things happier in most cases.
VTC Oil Control Valve - #7 in the diagram
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~valve~assy~15830-raa-a01.html
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
Awsome video, great job! Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Caleb, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Thanks. Great video.
Appreciate the feedback ,glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
I did all + replacing the VTEC Solenoid and VVT solenoid and still have this issue. I checked the wiring andnit looks good, and ideas?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Honda Emilio. The only thing that comes to mind is the brand of solenoid you used? Honda's are very picky when it comes to electronic parts.
If it is not a Genuine Honda part, this might be causing your issue. If it is a genuine Honda part, and you have flushed and changed you oil, along with cleaning or new screens, there really isn't anything else that typically causes this issue besides wiring.
Please let us know, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I used Carquest and then got a refund for it and got a NTK. With the NTK check engine come and goes, that's along with the limp mode. It comes and goes
So, the flush fixed it?
Did it come back?
I appreciate your videos.✌️
Thanks for the question, we have not had the error code come up again since the repair. If it does come back, you will know that the Spool Valve is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.
If you don't perform the cleaning and add fresh oil, then you will not be 100% sure what the issue is.
Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Hello i have a 2006 honda civic si same code replace selinoid and plugs still geting same code does the vvt has to do something whith dint change the vvt selinoid
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Honda Carlos. There are (4) main causes for the P2646 code to come up. The first is the oil level, make sure it is at the FULL mark. The second would be clogged VVT screens. The third thing would be a faulty oil pressure sensor or bad wiring to the sensor. If all of the above are good then the only thing left would be the solenoid valve assembly itself is bad.
There is also a small possibility that the wiring connection at the solenoid could be bad and not making a good connection. Those are really the only reasons why the P2646 code appears. Be sure to verify all of the above steps have been addressed and you should solve the issue.
Let us know how things go, good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Sorry, but publisher is wrong. The vtech electrical connection is located where water can accumulate. Locate a vid that covers this topic before getting another solenoid.
Thanks for the tip James, that is another item that can cause this issue. Although less common than low oil and clogged screens, it can be an overlooked issue.
Cheers!
Were the screens clean because of the engine flush?
Thanks for the question, we had things apart a few months back and thought that solved the issue. That's why we decided to make a video about all the steps, since cleaning the screen did not solve the issue.
You can always try to clean the screen first and see if your problem goes away. If not though, you will be taking all of these same items back off again to perform the flush and replace the Spool Valve.
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
Also, would this issue cause the car not to start when cold under 40 degrees car won't start its a 2003 honda element.
No, this error code only affects the operation of the VTEC. This only comes into play above 3k RPM. Not wanting to start would be a different problem. Are you getting any other codes for the no start condition?
Let us know, Cheers!
@sofiareix9902 Hi my car did the same thing, either slow cranking after sitting overnight or needing a jump after the weekend, and only during cold weather. Batteries lose charge faster when they’re cold, especially when they’re being used without being recharged (like driving). Turns out I had 2 parasitic battery draws on my 2007 Acura RDX (basically turbo CR-V): both the Bluetooth and AcuraLink units were dying and just needed to be unplugged. You may or may not have a similar issue, it could be a different electrical issue, but dead battery in cold weather indicates something is draining it. You can use a multimeter to check the battery voltage the next time it has that issue (there’s plenty of UA-cam videos on that). I solved mine by having a mechanic friend pull *all* codes, not just engine codes like small OBD code readers do, and it showed several repeating codes in the B-CAN system (audio and navigation systems, aka not engine codes) - B2204 B2207 B2208 B2209. Those can be googled, but I found the Service Manual online (not the owners manual! the service manual a mechanic would use, it’s way longer) and found all the codes and explanations as well as how to access them to unplug them. The tech in those is too outdated to bother with the cost and time of replacing. If you can’t find and do it yourself, a mechanic will have to diagnose the battery draw, which can take time and add up $$. Hope this helps.
I'm about to get a solenoid after we change oil. What we did is, we use two 5 liters oil 10w 40.
The car is 2008 Honda RB1 odyssey, and the it is 180,000 Km which we use here in Australia and not miles.
We drained the old first then use the first 10w 40 with engine oil flush. After 15 minutes we drained again, and use the second 10w 40 and replace the oil filter last.
I use the OBD to erase the code.
What my mechanic friends said, sometimes the rocker arm inside the engine has some praticles and sludge remaining that's why they told me to let it run and erase the code when the CEL come up again.
I've done it probably 4 times erasing the code after Illuminated, then after 2 days the code is not showing up and runs like giving 5000 RPM and drive 80-100 km. So far, the code is not showing up until now after last was 5 days.
But if it show up again, we will open the engine and check the wiring and rocker arm if it still stuck.
Thanks for sharing your technique, appreciate the feedback. Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage just an update. The CEL is not showing up and we haven't change the solenoid yet. At the same time, we haven't open the top oil pan yet to check the rocker arm. But so far is still running as normal and the fuel efficiency has been improved.
Thx
Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Where can I find the engine cleaner? What is it called?
Thanks for the question Leo, the engine flush is made by Liqui Moly.
You can purchase the product here - www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro-line-engine-flush-500ml-can-liqui-moly-lm2037
Or from Amazon - www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO
Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Thank you!!
@@leoaries8171 No worries, good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Not much help since you don't show what was causing the code.
Thanks for the comments Matt. There are three reasons why the P2646 comes up.
1. Low oil or dirty oil
2. Solenoid screens are clogged
3. VTEC Spool Valve Solenoid itself is bad
You can perform an oil change or engine flush with oil change to rule out steep one.
If the code returns, you will need to remove both screens to check for clogs.
If after the screen cleaning the code returns, you know the Spool Valve is bad and will need to be replaced.
Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage 1 and 2 are easy to do but if they don't fix it then you can't assume 3. Sometimes the pressure sensor is bad Sometimes the electrical connection is bad (e.g., loose connection or wet from water or oil leak). Honda Element Owners Club site goes into great detail. Many people have wasted money replacing the VTEC spool valve when that was not the problem.
I'm not a mechanic, just a DIYer 2003 Element owner. I'm currently having this problem intermittently and trying to trace the source.
@@mattfoley6082 Thanks for the response, sorry if our reply made it seem like those were the only possibilities.
The ones you pointed out can be a factor but are much less likely to be the issue.
We currently have (3) Honda's with the 2.4L so these steps have helped solve all the issues we have had over the years with our cars. It has never been the pressure sensor or electrical connection for us.
Good luck on your Honda project, thanks again for hanging out.
Cheers!
My element is the car that I really want to love, but every oil change and things like this remind me that it really is over rated.
They can be a bit finicky sometimes but the K24A4 is a solid engine that will last for several hundred thousand miles if taken care of. We have been happy with ours and haven't had any real issues besides an A/C compressor going out.
Cheers!
Did this. Did not work
Thanks for the feedback, unfortunately if you have performed all the steps, you will have to replace the solenoid itself.
Here is the link for A Genuine Honda 15810-RAA-A03 Spool Valve Assembly a.co/d/0PoTxqP
Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
@BradleysGarage you are right it ended up being the oil pressure switch on my VTEC. I found an oem switch from the local junkyard and didn't have to spend a lot on buying a brand new OEM VTEC but I also disassembled my old one and replaced all the internal gaskets. The codes went off by themselves
5w30
Another great tip that helps with this issues as well, thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
The car is too new to have a P2646!!!!
It's almost 20 years old now so it's time for things to go bad.
Cheers!
There you go! you got another fart can back on the road..
Thanks for the comments, appreciate the feedback. Cheers!