NEW lift kit video is up! Check it out ua-cam.com/video/dUaWl6DnjYo/v-deo.htmlsi=ljpxQH4MJ3MH1JxH For discounts on all Torch Off Road parts use www.torchoffroad.com/truckandroll
After watching the video, I bought the 3-inch lift for a 1991 Chev 1500. The truck has 245 tires now and I always run on the other trucks run 265's . Around the same time spring of 2025 the lift kit goes on a 385 stroker engine is replacing way to weak 350 engine. This truck is one of 3 I own and all 3 are used for my fishing & Hunting services so the 385 stroker is for a guide's work truck for more torque for pulling boats and forest logging road drives, NO race application.
@@truckandroll989 If you get around to changing out the 350 in your truck do a 383 which is the 350-block bored 30 0ver and the 385 is a 40 over 350 block. Also used the 6-inch connecting rod for even more torque and better fuel mileage. The 383 I did for my 1988 truck is using 1/2 the fuel the 350 used because I am running the engine not as hard as the 350 had to work . Cost to do a 383-work truck engine is the same as rebuilding the 350. The parts to change out are the 383 crank - go to 6-inch rods instead of 5/7 inch rods - 400 SB flex plate and harmonic balancer for a 400 SM + pistons for a 6 inch rod for a 383 . The rest of the 350 you have is reused for the 383
@ravenrivera1950 they don't rub at all, I think I could get 315's under it, I did order a zone 3" body lift haven't put it on yet, give me about an hour I can make a quick video of my truck before I do the body lift. $295 cheap way to get 6"
Does that help with clearance on the upper bump stops? Im just trying to figure out what to do next on trying to make it smoother and not hit the stops@@bigcountry4588
Maybe your truck is a little different but most of the time the adjusting screws for the torsion bars should be close to the same measurement from one side to the other....
@HartingFarms The exact question and the same tire 33s I want on my 89 GMC and I was hoping i wouldn't have to go more than 3 inch. Thanks for asking buddy!
Just did the Torch 2-3" leveling kit on a 99 Suburban, the problem I am having is that my new torsion keys seem like they hang from the bottom more than yours(from what I saw in the video). This is causing the UCAs to hit the droop stops I have the keys resting on the saddles as far down as they can go. I have tried various positions and swapping the keys side to side but it hasn't fixed it. I'm starting to wonder if I need new torsion bars. I ran into the stuck bar issue too on the passenger side, even tried a come along to pull the bar forward (didn't work). I ended up moving the brace back as you mentioned. Once the brace and key was off I was able to wiggle the bar around at that end and loosen it up to slide it forward. I needed it loose for future LCA bushings and ball joint install.
Hmm. I think you are on the right track trying to adjust the key location by maybe 1. Are you checking side to side height with the suspension loaded and sitting on the ground. Do you have UCA issues says at 2” of height (higher than before). Mine required some fine tuning to get the truck level
@@truckandroll989 I attempted to adjust the key by one flat but it either hits the top inside of the cross member or droops more. The key sits on the saddle with tension on the tip of the bolt just touching its indent. The UCA is against the droop stop even when loaded with the keys in. When I installed them, I had the same conditions as yours with the wheels off and the frame on jack stands. I have 3 1/2" inches of lift compared to my stock height with no room to go down.
@@4theloot638 sounds like have them droop and then adjust upwards? I doubt the torsion keys are totally shot but could be wrong. Perhaps Torch can help you out?
@@truckandroll989 Torch got me a new set of keys but, it is still the same issue. I ended up having to buy a set of Rough Country 2" keys. It seems to be sitting level and has a gap below the upper control arm now.
I watched this video a while back and started putting a bit of money to the side but I was skimming through the video a second time and I didn’t see if you said the new shock size that you got. What shocks are you running now?
@@Anthony_a07 they are from Skyjacker. Got them off Summit racing. Part number H7081 and H7083. Also dont forget if you order the lift using my code in the description you get 10% off :)
Cool man, I read alot of reviews on Amazon. They indicated that even with the torsion bolts backed way out. Stock upper control arms were hitting bump stops and un able to align. I wasn't sure it fake hate reviews or truth. Either way I ordered the exact equipment in your video and I'll try my luck. I have a 1996 chevrolet suburban k1500.
I installed two inch keys to the torsion bars on my 98 Silverado ext cab. I also had to compensate the rear with 2 inch blocks. I think I had to crank the keys up to 3 inch to level it out. I can't remember. It was about 4 yrs ago I did it. It drives fine but stiffer. It hops over speed bumps unless you really creep it over. As far as being level side to side, one corner is like a 1/4 inch different than the other 3. I just called it good. You can't tell. 2 inch lift looks better but I plan to add another 2 inch, making it 4 inch lift. I also installed air bags to the rear for towing.
Thank you for this helpful video! I've got a '98 Tahoe I'd like to lift 2" using the 2" blocks rear, and adjusting the keys in front, like you did. Two questions: 1. When you hit a pothole or bump hard, does the truck feel wobbly? 2. How's the angle of your front axle shafts after the lift? Thanks much!
Truck doesnt feel wobbly at all over bumps, perhaps marginally stiffer but not wobbly. I didnt notice an issue with the axle shafts. The CV joint can take quite a bit of misalignment. Any higher and you may want to consider the modified upper control arms which Torch Off Road sells. Dont forget you get discounts using my code (link in description) for anything purchased off their website I think the 2” lift is really the happy medium here. I think you will like it!
All the torsion keys are is ford torsion keys that chevy uses for a cheap lift but the bad part is that it puts the ball joints in a bind if taken to much and stiffins the ride also
Yea its a balancing act for sure. I went up 2” instead of the full 3” that the keys will allow. Similarly i installed larger shocks to allow for the increased travel. You are right though modified UCAs or new ball joints are a good call for longevity sake, especially if lifting 3” +
@bananasdildo ordered the kit that allowed 1-3” of travel and shot for 2” by the spacers I selected in the rear. I believe keys are one size to accommodate various lifts depending on how you set them.
So the aftermarket keys are clocked differently. You dont have to crank the new keys as far for the same lift. Its possible you could run out of of adjustment.
I did not. It maybe road a tiny bit rougher but that’s not uncommon when you lift it from the keys. I also only went with the 2” lift so it certainly wasnt maxed out in its travel.
The only way for the torsion bars to turn would be to remove them from both the keys and the lower control arms. If yours are like mine, and are stuck in the control arms, they cannot turn.
I bought a truck (94 chevy) with 35s on it and it has a body lift kit. Also rhe front torsion bars are cranked to the max. The ride is horrible. I want to lift the truck up more just to lower the front end down to have a softer ride.i know i could just put smaller tires on it but i want it up the same if not a little higher than it is now
In my opinion any time the torsion bars are cranked front stock you will change height but also impact ride quality. So if you need the clearance for 35s Id look into ways to minimize maxing out the torsion key cranking and that would help ride quality and likely increase longevity of other suspension components. For me I had like 32” tall tires so it wasnt a huge issue to add 2” up front. However there will always be some amount of tradeoff.
I went to the site to get the same kit I see the torsion bar keys for a 94 model Chevy but I don’t see the shock kit or the rear leveling kit for anything but for a 99-07 Chevy. Will the 99-07 kit work on a 94
Best bet would be to call or email them. They are very responsive to both and helped me find something I didn’t know they offered. When its time to order use the link torchoffroad.com/truckandroll and you should get a discount at checkout :)
I have a 97 gmc Sierra k1500 ext cab. I want to use this same kit on mine, my question for you would be did you end up having to replace the stock UCAs? If not how are they working out? Trying to figure out if it’s necessary for me replace them when I do it. Plan on going 2” lift.
@@joecorpe8243 i did not replace them when I did the lift. However I tried to keep the lift height reasonable. I think if you max out the kit at 3” (or more) you put the ball joints at a weird angle. Mine has been fine though but i was only shooting for 2” from the start. I think you will be good with 2” and stock arms
Appreciate the info. 2” is all I’m looking for. Nothing excessive, the way yours turned out is exactly what I’m looking for. I’ve been watching a lot of videos for how to do this and yours is by far the most informative. Thanks for the reply.
I have a question about the sky jacker schocks my bushings seem to tight to fit the metal bracket for the two rear bolts did you melt yours down ? Thank you kinda following your setup 👍
So they are certainly a bit of a pain to press in you are correct. Here are a few tips: 1. Use some sort of lubricant. I have found for rubber on metal that interior cleaners work well (i.e. armor all, lucas, etc.). Even windex works in a pinch. 2. You can always try to toss the bushings in the freezer overnight and leave the shocks out in the sun. Sometimes a little bit of thermal growth/shrinkage goes a long way Take your time they will go in. Lubing them up really helps :)
I did not have any issues with the stock control arms, but I didn’t go as high as I could have in the front so if you were maxing out the torsion keys, it might not be a bad idea to get new control arms too
I think they are not the original tow hooks for the truck. They are turned 90 deg in the wrong direction but thats how they bolt up. If i could snag the correct ones Id swap them
@@truckandroll989 they look good, I was just curious if you heated and turned them or if you bought it that way. Thank you so much for the tutorial, I’m about to put 2” keys on my ‘98 model.
@@yep.yep.yep.000 yea you definitely want to get a longer shock IF you are lifting and vice versa if lowering. My old shocks were in OK shape but i was worried id be extending them beyond their useable range
To be honest Ill have to check. It was on the truck when i got it and seems to close just just fine. That being said it is cracked in the center as has been since I got the truck
@@dp97303 you can likely order one for your truck off of Torch Off Road’s website. If you use the link in the description you get a discount too and it helps me out :)
NEW lift kit video is up! Check it out
ua-cam.com/video/dUaWl6DnjYo/v-deo.htmlsi=ljpxQH4MJ3MH1JxH
For discounts on all Torch Off Road parts use www.torchoffroad.com/truckandroll
Awesome video. Very well explained and thorough.
After watching the video, I bought the 3-inch lift for a 1991 Chev 1500.
The truck has 245 tires now and I always run on the other trucks run 265's .
Around the same time spring of 2025 the lift kit goes on a 385 stroker engine is replacing way to weak 350 engine.
This truck is one of 3 I own and all 3 are used for my fishing & Hunting services so the 385 stroker is for a guide's work truck for more torque for pulling boats and forest logging road drives, NO race application.
@@Lure-Benson love it!
@@truckandroll989 If you get around to changing out the 350 in your truck do a 383 which is the 350-block bored 30 0ver and the 385 is a 40 over 350 block.
Also used the 6-inch connecting rod for even more torque and better fuel mileage.
The 383 I did for my 1988 truck is using 1/2 the fuel the 350 used because I am running the engine not as hard as the 350 had to work .
Cost to do a 383-work truck engine is the same as rebuilding the 350.
The parts to change out are the 383 crank - go to 6-inch rods instead of 5/7 inch rods - 400 SB flex plate and harmonic balancer for a 400 SM + pistons for a 6 inch rod for a 383 .
The rest of the 350 you have is reused for the 383
Hey man you did a good job!! I'm going to do my truck like that ..👏
I got the 3", just finished the driver side, fender is at 39" but should go up more when I get new tires, 285/75/r16s
Do your tires clear good after the lift? I have same exact size tires on stock height and rub way too much on turns! Please let me know thank you
@ravenrivera1950 they don't rub at all, I think I could get 315's under it, I did order a zone 3" body lift haven't put it on yet, give me about an hour I can make a quick video of my truck before I do the body lift. $295 cheap way to get 6"
@@cornbreaddiabetic4615 appreciate your response! I’ll watch the video if you upload 😎
@@cornbreaddiabetic4615 one more question sir did you have to get an alignment done after installing?
@ravenrivera1950 yes it definitely needs one after cranking the torsion bars
Got my lift on my definitely is stiffer but I have old shocks hoping that the skyjackers make little smoother ride
Any update?
@@Cats4Trumpget 2-4 upper control arms
Does that help with clearance on the upper bump stops? Im just trying to figure out what to do next on trying to make it smoother and not hit the stops@@bigcountry4588
Maybe your truck is a little different but most of the time the adjusting screws for the torsion bars should be close to the same measurement from one side to the other....
What was the final height at 26:14 and what size tires are you running I'm chasing after this look on my truck thank you.
I want to say right around 35” maybe a tiny bit taller. Tires were a 32.5x12.5R15 (BFG K02)
@@truckandroll989 I'm assuming a 3" lift and 33s on my rims and BFGs would give me what I'm chasing. What do you think?
@@HartingFarms if you are going for a similar look to me then yes 💯 I think it would look great!
@@truckandroll989 Alright thank you I appreciate your time
@HartingFarms The exact question and the same tire 33s I want on my 89 GMC and I was hoping i wouldn't have to go more than 3 inch. Thanks for asking buddy!
Just did the Torch 2-3" leveling kit on a 99 Suburban, the problem I am having is that my new torsion keys seem like they hang from the bottom more than yours(from what I saw in the video). This is causing the UCAs to hit the droop stops I have the keys resting on the saddles as far down as they can go. I have tried various positions and swapping the keys side to side but it hasn't fixed it. I'm starting to wonder if I need new torsion bars.
I ran into the stuck bar issue too on the passenger side, even tried a come along to pull the bar forward (didn't work). I ended up moving the brace back as you mentioned. Once the brace and key was off I was able to wiggle the bar around at that end and loosen it up to slide it forward. I needed it loose for future LCA bushings and ball joint install.
Hmm. I think you are on the right track trying to adjust the key location by maybe 1. Are you checking side to side height with the suspension loaded and sitting on the ground. Do you have UCA issues says at 2” of height (higher than before). Mine required some fine tuning to get the truck level
@@truckandroll989 I attempted to adjust the key by one flat but it either hits the top inside of the cross member or droops more. The key sits on the saddle with tension on the tip of the bolt just touching its indent. The UCA is against the droop stop even when loaded with the keys in. When I installed them, I had the same conditions as yours with the wheels off and the frame on jack stands. I have 3 1/2" inches of lift compared to my stock height with no room to go down.
@@4theloot638 sounds like have them droop and then adjust upwards? I doubt the torsion keys are totally shot but could be wrong. Perhaps Torch can help you out?
@@truckandroll989 Thank you for the help, I have shot them a message to see.
@@truckandroll989 Torch got me a new set of keys but, it is still the same issue. I ended up having to buy a set of Rough Country 2" keys. It seems to be sitting level and has a gap below the upper control arm now.
I watched this video a while back and started putting a bit of money to the side but I was skimming through the video a second time and I didn’t see if you said the new shock size that you got. What shocks are you running now?
@@Anthony_a07 they are from Skyjacker. Got them off Summit racing. Part number H7081 and H7083.
Also dont forget if you order the lift using my code in the description you get 10% off :)
@ appreciate it man
Any issues with the stock upper control arms or getting an alignment?
No, not that I’m aware of. The alignment went fine and it seems to drive OK
Cool man, I read alot of reviews on Amazon. They indicated that even with the torsion bolts backed way out. Stock upper control arms were hitting bump stops and un able to align. I wasn't sure it fake hate reviews or truth. Either way I ordered the exact equipment in your video and I'll try my luck. I have a 1996 chevrolet suburban k1500.
@@yep.yep.yep.000 sweet hopefully you took advantage of the discount code ;)
Aw shit I forgot 😮 my bad
Any update on this? I wanna run this kit but was also thinking about UCAs smacking the bump stop
I installed two inch keys to the torsion bars on my 98 Silverado ext cab. I also had to compensate the rear with 2 inch blocks. I think I had to crank the keys up to 3 inch to level it out. I can't remember. It was about 4 yrs ago I did it. It drives fine but stiffer. It hops over speed bumps unless you really creep it over. As far as being level side to side, one corner is like a 1/4 inch different than the other 3. I just called it good. You can't tell. 2 inch lift looks better but I plan to add another 2 inch, making it 4 inch lift. I also installed air bags to the rear for towing.
Thank you for this helpful video! I've got a '98 Tahoe I'd like to lift 2" using the 2" blocks rear, and adjusting the keys in front, like you did. Two questions: 1. When you hit a pothole or bump hard, does the truck feel wobbly? 2. How's the angle of your front axle shafts after the lift? Thanks much!
Truck doesnt feel wobbly at all over bumps, perhaps marginally stiffer but not wobbly.
I didnt notice an issue with the axle shafts. The CV joint can take quite a bit of misalignment. Any higher and you may want to consider the modified upper control arms which Torch Off Road sells. Dont forget you get discounts using my code (link in description) for anything purchased off their website
I think the 2” lift is really the happy medium here. I think you will like it!
@@truckandroll989Awesome! Will do! Thank you.
All the torsion keys are is ford torsion keys that chevy uses for a cheap lift but the bad part is that it puts the ball joints in a bind if taken to much and stiffins the ride also
Yea its a balancing act for sure. I went up 2” instead of the full 3” that the keys will allow. Similarly i installed larger shocks to allow for the increased travel. You are right though modified UCAs or new ball joints are a good call for longevity sake, especially if lifting 3” +
did you buy the 3" keys or 2" keys?
@bananasdildo ordered the kit that allowed 1-3” of travel and shot for 2” by the spacers I selected in the rear. I believe keys are one size to accommodate various lifts depending on how you set them.
What size are those tires?
What size tires are you running after the lift kit?
Actually ran same as before They were 33” K02s on a 15” wheel
Looks great.
Much appreciated!
Why not just crank the stock torsion bars? maybe I missed that part.
So the aftermarket keys are clocked differently. You dont have to crank the new keys as far for the same lift. Its possible you could run out of of adjustment.
Great video! What size tires are you running?
32x11.5x15 BFG All Terrain K02
@@truckandroll989 They look great! Thanks for your reply.
@@CelebrityStuntman thank YOU for watching! I really do love the k02s. Fantastic in our utah winters having to drive up canyon roads
Do you have any probs with hitting the bump stops more after the lift
I did not. It maybe road a tiny bit rougher but that’s not uncommon when you lift it from the keys. I also only went with the 2” lift so it certainly wasnt maxed out in its travel.
@truckandroll989 ok cool. I am not wanting to much of a lift but I saw others talk about the bump stops too. Good job on your video. Thank u.
Do they turn when you take them out the torsion bars ?
The only way for the torsion bars to turn would be to remove them from both the keys and the lower control arms. If yours are like mine, and are stuck in the control arms, they cannot turn.
Okay I appreciate your patience thanks bud 👍
Hey what size tires are on that truck? Looking at doing this and trying to find some tires to compare it to
32x11.5x15 BFG All Terrain K02
I like it look good thank you buddy
How is the front end holding up a year later?
Truck has been rock solid :).
@@truckandroll989 ok thanks!
Bedliner u used?
I’m not sure it was on it when I bought the truck maybe rhino lining
How is the front suspension holding up?
No issues!
I bought a truck (94 chevy) with 35s on it and it has a body lift kit. Also rhe front torsion bars are cranked to the max. The ride is horrible. I want to lift the truck up more just to lower the front end down to have a softer ride.i know i could just put smaller tires on it but i want it up the same if not a little higher than it is now
In my opinion any time the torsion bars are cranked front stock you will change height but also impact ride quality. So if you need the clearance for 35s Id look into ways to minimize maxing out the torsion key cranking and that would help ride quality and likely increase longevity of other suspension components. For me I had like 32” tall tires so it wasnt a huge issue to add 2” up front. However there will always be some amount of tradeoff.
Hey I’m looking into this lift kit, do you think someone could run 35s with 3 inch lift?
I had plenty of room granted i went with the 2” lift and am on a ~33” tire but i bet you could. Backspacing and width up front would play a key factor
I went to the site to get the same kit I see the torsion bar keys for a 94 model Chevy but I don’t see the shock kit or the rear leveling kit for anything but for a 99-07 Chevy. Will the 99-07 kit work on a 94
Best bet would be to call or email them. They are very responsive to both and helped me find something I didn’t know they offered. When its time to order use the link torchoffroad.com/truckandroll and you should get a discount at checkout :)
I have a 97 gmc Sierra k1500 ext cab. I want to use this same kit on mine, my question for you would be did you end up having to replace the stock UCAs? If not how are they working out? Trying to figure out if it’s necessary for me replace them when I do it. Plan on going 2” lift.
@@joecorpe8243 i did not replace them when I did the lift. However I tried to keep the lift height reasonable. I think if you max out the kit at 3” (or more) you put the ball joints at a weird angle. Mine has been fine though but i was only shooting for 2” from the start. I think you will be good with 2” and stock arms
Appreciate the info. 2” is all I’m looking for. Nothing excessive, the way yours turned out is exactly what I’m looking for. I’ve been watching a lot of videos for how to do this and yours is by far the most informative. Thanks for the reply.
I have a question about the sky jacker schocks my bushings seem to tight to fit the metal bracket for the two rear bolts did you melt yours down ? Thank you kinda following your setup 👍
So they are certainly a bit of a pain to press in you are correct. Here are a few tips:
1. Use some sort of lubricant. I have found for rubber on metal that interior cleaners work well (i.e. armor all, lucas, etc.). Even windex works in a pinch.
2. You can always try to toss the bushings in the freezer overnight and leave the shocks out in the sun. Sometimes a little bit of thermal growth/shrinkage goes a long way
Take your time they will go in. Lubing them up really helps :)
Thanks I appreciate the input it just seemed like bushing were to big but I’ll throw in freezer then coat them in wd 40 tmo👍
Everything’s done thanks for input I only swore 50 times getting bushings in😤👍😂 I will be starting to do some obs videos soon👍
Bro u did amazing
Thanks I really appreciate that! Plenty more videos on this truck from stereo to full exhaust! Loved this truck :)
Can you do som dragy videos with the mustang 60-130?
I need to get a draggy and weather above 20 lol but id like to
Did you have to get different control arms or did the stock ones run just fine
I did not have any issues with the stock control arms, but I didn’t go as high as I could have in the front so if you were maxing out the torsion keys, it might not be a bad idea to get new control arms too
@@truckandroll989 I plan on doing something similar to what you did by adding in the 2 inch blocks then just leveling out the front with the rear
@@bossman147 yea i think it gave it a tough look without going overboard. Use the link in the subscription and you get a discount on your order 😎
HTTPS://TORCHOFFROAD.COM/TRUCKANDROLL
@@truckandroll989 thanks for helping me out after making the video almost a year ago
Curious why your tow hooks are open down instead of to the outside? Just aesthetics?
I think they are not the original tow hooks for the truck. They are turned 90 deg in the wrong direction but thats how they bolt up. If i could snag the correct ones Id swap them
@@truckandroll989 they look good, I was just curious if you heated and turned them or if you bought it that way. Thank you so much for the tutorial, I’m about to put 2” keys on my ‘98 model.
Looks good. What size tire?
They are a 32 x 10.5 x 15 i believe. BFG All Terrain K02
Are the new shocks that you installed stock length?
Nope purchased longer then stock on purpose to account for lift
I was asking because supposedly some stock shocks have a bit of extra travel.
@@yep.yep.yep.000 yea you definitely want to get a longer shock IF you are lifting and vice versa if lowering. My old shocks were in OK shape but i was worried id be extending them beyond their useable range
Whats the part number on your skyjacker shocks?
H7083 and H7081
You don't have sway bars...my Yukon does. I'm looking for the 2-3" lift. Do you happen to know if i need to extend the sway links?
I have sway a sway bar in the front and it was fine
@@truckandroll989 awesome! Thanks!!
What size tire are you running with lift kit?
Same as before the lift. They are a BFG k02 and measure just under 33”
Is that n Avs bug guard ? I couldn’t get my hood to close correctly any tips ?
To be honest Ill have to check. It was on the truck when i got it and seems to close just just fine. That being said it is cracked in the center as has been since I got the truck
Thanks for your discount code I got mine what shocks r u running ?
@@mikeydejon2148 Excellent! Glad it worked out. I went with Skyjackers. The part numbers are H7083 and H7081
Thanks!
What brand are the rims???
Not sure sorry ill have to check later
Angle grinder. Cut the rear u-bolts off. You get new ones anyway.
Very good call. Was my first time playing with those stupid things but you are 100% right
Does anyone know where to find a complete wire harness for this truck ?
LMC
I want one 3 inch i own a 1989 3/4 ton k2500
@@dp97303 you can likely order one for your truck off of Torch Off Road’s website. If you use the link in the description you get a discount too and it helps me out :)