Відео

@@adairjanney7109 if you have the engine on a stand this is a no brainer. Trying to do a front timing cover on a Mopar in the car means you have to cut the oil pan gasket and install 2 cork ends (cut to fit), main lip seal, and then try and slip the cover on and align everything without it moving. Its not like a SBC. Sometimes you gotta work with what you have

@@adairjanney7109 lol i dont think i was trying to be special, just share a product I was pleasantly surprised with ;)

@@truckandroll989 fair enough I guess what I meant is that truck aint differnt, hell every timing cover ive ever messed with made me want to die, reapplying gasket stuff over and over cause it wont fit on right thats what I was getting at but worded it a bit dickish it seems

@@adairjanney7109 lol all good my dude :)

@@clayton9136 so truth be told I put this on expecting a massive oil leak from installing my timing cover. I don’t think it would’ve sealed up as well if you had already had oil in that crevice but there’s no way that thing should have not leaked. The fit up when you dont drop the pan is truly abysmal. So in your defense, it’s not a perfect test, but I’m still super stoked that it doesn’t leak at all.

@@coleregan7115 yeah that’s a tough one. You could always try it, but you’d have to get the surface super clean and oil free.

@@mmzero562 I was on the phone with Permatex asking them about the right rtv for my intake and was like “do yall have something to put on after a leak has started” and i was surprised to hear the answer was yes.

@@samthekashman the old girl will find a way, trust me. This transmission has more leaks in it than the Iraqi Navy. 😂

@@dannyc1657 hahaha if you would have seen the install of the timing cover and the way you have to position these cork gaskets independent of the front seal, block, timing cover, and pan it looked like a guaranteed leak. I agree its not a perfect test but i had no faith in the cork. They were cut to fit and squished out when I torqued the timing cover to pan. Still a cool product

​@@truckandroll989and still not a real test

@@richardruiz6812 :) it was time for something else and I’ve got a pretty cool new project in mind that’s going to be a total 180 from this car but I think I will learn a lot from it. I’m gonna try and get some new videos soon.

@@truckandroll989 awesome thanks

@@apocolypse11 well well well if it isn’t the neighborhood troll. Its not about not being able to press the pedal its about being able to modulate the gas. Think of driving a stick shift car where the throttle feels like its stuck closed. Not fun for you or the passengers. Anyways thanks for watching and either way i appreciate the comments ;)

@@5Star-e7y thank you sir!

Yea it was maybe a touch throatier and for sure worth some extra power but certainly wasnt too loud. I try to tell people all the time you can have a good performing exhaust without waking the neighbors. In a newer video I ditch the quiet muffler and go for a Flowmaster 10 series. The change js dramatic :)

@@Theundisputedtruth im not super familiar with Chevelles but yes taller springs, if they make such a thing taller spindles (or if your car was previously lowered on drop spindles install stock ones). Otherwise some sort of plate between the spring and perch would do it like you said.

@@truckandroll989 thx

I do but its been up for sale for a bit. Hoping to transition to something else :)

@@truckandroll989 ohh that's too bad I was hoping to see more videos of you taking it to the dragstrip. Good luck on the sale of the mustang 👍

@@thndr_5468 check out 1A auto. Its not hard to narrow it down to your year, make, and model. They have a bunch of similar kits depending on what you need

@@airell47 Modern cars use multiple (sometimes up to 4) oxygen sensors (either one or two per side before and sometimes after the catalytic converters). On an engine dyno ive seen oxygen sensors installed in each primary tube to understand variances cylinder to cylinder. However in this application one is likely sufficient but it does mean there could be a variation between each side of the motor. Since a carburetor really doesnt allow much tuning for side to side variation I recommend picking the easiest install location (on one side) and using that. You could always weld in a second bung on the other side, plug the original bung, and check for differences. If you had a y pipe that was pretty close to the manifold collectors that could be another good location but then you are only seeing an average. So the short/long answer is more would be ideal but thats added cost and likely not worth it unless you are racing or getting really serious about tuning.

@@truckandroll989 perfect that helps allot. i normally drive and tune EFI vehicles started working on a old 81 f150 with a 71 "5L" i got it running and driving great but i would like to start trying to squeeze a bit more out of the motor. im going to try one of these setups and see what happens. my thought is its the easiest way to track a base line ( what its at now) and see changes made.

@@airell47 good call. If you check my other videos I actually have a few discussing tuning on a 5L Ford. Ive got playlists for my videos and those tuning videos are for my 64 Comet. Could maybe be helpful :)

@@truckandroll989 thanks, will do, much appreciated.

@@The0utmode thats a really good call!

@@jacobpitts3645 if its an edelbrock or another style carb that used step up springs your issue could be load related and you could change the spring vs a smaller jet. But yes if you are at light load cruising you engine can tolerate a leaner AFR and you should pick up some mpg and avoid fouling plugs.

@@truckandroll989 the crazy thing is the plugs aren’t fouled. The carb is a Holley 750 vac secondaries. However, the carb was manufactured in 1985. Soooooo haha

@@Kidchevy88 id say the biggest improvement/thing you should do (if you dont have the new holley sniper) is the modification I mention to improve throttle feel. Beyond that keep an eye on sensors. I had a new coolant temp sensor fail which makes vehicle run super rich/basically undrivable. Also, if you want the most out of your sniper, even though they are self learning, plan a dyno session with a reputable tuner and he/she can dial it in faster/better.

@@truckandroll989 thank u really appreciate it

@@Kidchevy88 i appreciate you watching/supporting my channel :)

@@truckandroll989 no problem I just started my channel I’ll be posting more about my experience with the set up it’s in a 1986 Monte Carlo ss

@@EAJ97 its a really good idea. Ive had friends recently, multiple actually, have their cars stolen. An apple air tag is another great idea for tracking. Thanks for watching!

@@truckandroll989I have an AirTag in there actually! Just want that extra security to make me feel fine with leaving it around town

@@ari1234. sorry the power steering pump brackets came with the truck. Fans were controlled via my Holley Super Sniper ECU

That is lucky. With lowering springs that often happens. Avoiding using compressors is always a plus!

@@busarob3679 so depending on which video you watched I had to pull the k member on my 97 Cobra. While it was off I degreased and power washed it. That made a huge difference! Thank you for watching!

Queue up the clip from Billy Madison from the lunch lady 😜

@@rickwingo6970 $56k Here is the add but obviously the entire build history is on my channel facebook.com/marketplace/item/831854978812546/?mibextid=6ojiHh

@@DentedDiesel didnt clear. Had to notch them 😩

@@spades262 it has been a while but i would imagine if you can slide the new arm into place of the stock one and it doesnt move the throttle blades there should be no change and you adjust it as you would stock. I think idle rpm is set with the screw. Also there were settings in the software for linear vs progressive throttle if i remember correctly.

Im glad I was able to help ;)

@@stevepope5484 the shroud is integral to the fans themselves. The aluminum frame was sized to seal around radiator. Works great ;)

@@stevepope5484 was I naked?

A track day would be fun. The only issue is I have a nasty trans leak I need to sort out and it’s now >100F in Utah. I will one day though! Regarding the 6 spd I liked it a lot but wasn’t in love with the rebuild I received. It would pop out of first gear which was terrifying. I’d highly recommend a stick with an overdrive. Honestly maybe a TKX considering your hp, it’s size, weight, and cost

Lol its honestly not the worst but the swaybar bit cracks me up. Honestly easiest vehicles to change the oil on have been my Corvettes when I had them. Drain plug doesnt hit anything, filter is directly on the bottom. Ugh why cant more OEMs make it simple or at least mess free!

@@truckandroll989 You are the first I've seen take the sway bar down. I installed a Fumoto F106N drain valve in place of the drain plug years ago and it made that part way easier. Sway bar was close to making contact with the nipple so I trimmed it down about a 1/4". Still plenty left to a little hose on though. Not needed but keeps the wind from blowing the little stream all over. Also tried the oil udder XL yesterday and punctured the filter and wow, cleanest oil change I've done on the RAM ever. Still not Corvette easy but tolerable.

Hi, am I play? Im not sure. It was either that or the OP with no common sense. Either way thanks for watching. Sorry my grommet finesse didn’t live up to your expectations. I was going to check your channel for instructional videos, but alas there aren’t any ;) keep up the good work.