This solves many of the challenges in using the basic slotting miter box: - the cut depth is registered off the top of the fretboard so its thickness isn’t important - because each slot has its own dedicated saw guide, the wear caused by the saw kerf is much reduced (I should post a video on how to hot rod the basic C B Gitty slotting jig) One caveat is that the cutting depth depends on the distance from the underside of the saw’s spine to the tips of the teeth. I’ve had two of these saws and they are close, but not the same, and neither have their teeth parallel with the spine. If this becomes a problem, you could cut all your slots, then turn the jig around and touch them up from the other side. That will make the cut depth even across the board. Now all Gitty needs to do is offer this in other scale lengths for ukulele! The cool thing about laser cutting is that you can make different sizes without any tooling costs!
This solves many of the challenges in using the basic slotting miter box:
- the cut depth is registered off the top of the fretboard so its thickness isn’t important
- because each slot has its own dedicated saw guide, the wear caused by the saw kerf is much reduced (I should post a video on how to hot rod the basic C B Gitty slotting jig)
One caveat is that the cutting depth depends on the distance from the underside of the saw’s spine to the tips of the teeth. I’ve had two of these saws and they are close, but not the same, and neither have their teeth parallel with the spine. If this becomes a problem, you could cut all your slots, then turn the jig around and touch them up from the other side. That will make the cut depth even across the board.
Now all Gitty needs to do is offer this in other scale lengths for ukulele! The cool thing about laser cutting is that you can make different sizes without any tooling costs!
That's very cool.
Right-O!
This is an awesome, very useful tool!
And the video is perfect!!!
This is so awesome! Super helpful