This simple fix made my old blades cut like new!
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- How I clean my table saw blades- including some great tips!
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-Trend blade cleaner: amzn.to/3plHp30
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Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!
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-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
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-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
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-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
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-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼
*Links promised in this video:*
-Trend blade cleaner: amzn.to/3plHp30
-Ridge Carbide blade sharpening service (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Ridge Carbide premium saw blades (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x
-Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M
-Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
-Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
-Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ
-Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF
-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
-Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl
-Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh
-Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo
-Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq
-ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Trend blade cleaner "currently unavailable" at Amazon. Just thought you should know.
@@nightwishlover8913 Not for me (U.S.) The link shows in stock & delivery Friday.
@@nightwishlover8913 Works when I click it.
@@nightwishlover8913 works for me too
I use a wire brush to get the cake off the tips while the blade is dry and on the saw. Once in a while I go a step further and spray some wd40 or awesome and bush it again. I am kind of lazy but this makes noticeable difference if the teeth have build up. Glad to see I am not the only one who notices the cake. Now I dont feel so crazy for doing it.
I used to use Complicated Green, but wised up and now use Simple Green. Good stuff.
I heard they had pulled Complicated Green from the market because users were struggling with it. Simple Green is obviously the inferior product, but it's better for the masses. Personally I've got a secret stash of the old Complicated Green that I'll be using for the next 20 years since Simple Green just isn't as good.
4 real
Simple Green works surprisingly well for cleaning blades.
@@JustinSeiffert Oh yes, most definitely for real, no joke here. This is the internet where everything is super serious and nobody lies.
I had complicated green, but you have to measure out and mix 3 parts. Simple Green is far superior.
Here, here. When I was in college I worked for a carpenter. He had a routine that we quit work on Friday's at 3:00 PM and then would clean tools until the normal quitting time. One of my tasks was to clean the saw blades, table saw, circular saws and a couple of hand saws. That was over 50 years ago and is a routine I used in almost all of my DIY jobs. Thanks for the memories.
What brand do you recommend for us novices out there?
@@andypiszcz6583 Andy, please be a little bit more specific. Do you refer to "what saw blades" would I recommend or "what cleaning products would I recommend"? Please, also consider the time-frame of my comment. I am in my 70's now and this all happened between 40 and 50 years ago. Things have kind of changed over that period of time. I would suggest reviewing this channel for current recommendations.
Been watching for a few months, and I've learned a ton. One thing I don't see folks commenting on is your skills as a presenter. You speak clearly, at a pace that's easy to follow. You make it clear when you're passionate about something without going overboard. You use your hands for good emphasis, without them being distracting. Just an all-around solid presenter, and a joy to watch. Add in the top-notch content and this has become one of my favorite channels.
Here's the breakdown of the additional value this tip has (for me):
Awareness of the need to clean blade: 20%
The difference it makes: 5%
What cleaner to use: 5%
Brush to use: 5%
Use of a bucket lid: 65%
G'day mate, that's a bit understated I reckon. I'm think'n more like 60, 20 to 30 and around 20% if pushed. Bucket lid is a great option 100%, if you have a spare, I wouldn't sacrifice a "working" one.
Depends whether you're a builder cutt'n rafters or for finer joinery, not to mention the previously cut timbers. Most of ours "down under"can be quite resinous and at times f*n hard. The two characteristics together make it quite essential. At what point to clean and what you use is certainly debatable, but I can tell you, you are better off without the crud. Cheers Duke.
I would say 90% for use of bucket lid, 8% for cleaners, and 2% for brushes. The awareness of the need to clean blades get 0% as this is something I’m sure almost everybody already knows.
@@_J.F_ I'm embarrassed to say I've never cleaned my miter, tablesaw, or circular saw blades. Granted I'm a diy hobbyist with diy hobbyist tier tools, but this will definitely help me. I always learn a lot from this channel.
It's a fact that 97% of stats on the internet are made up on the spot.
I try to post a monthly reminder on Instagram for people to clean their blades. The amount of people that comment, "i never knew you should clean your blade" EVERY TIME astounds me.
I usually borrow my wife’s toothbrush and some Trend cleaner - works great especially since her toothbrush is electric!
This is the perfect example of what makes a great DIY/how-to video.
A great lesson (clean your blades before spending $$) along with a perfect use for the ubiquitous orange bucket lid, and you solved the problem I always seem to have, which is how to clean up afterward responsibly. Every question answered. Can't ask for better than this.
Bravo!
I want to try a better blade, but $140 hurts my feelings.
Great tip using the bucket lid . I clean my blades regularly with the green stuff , that works good.
Bucket lid is a great improvement over my pizza pan(difficult to remove blade). My solvent however is Dollar General’s Mean Green and it works great. At last purchase it’s about $3 a gallon.
Simple green for the win!
Cleaning the blade is a MUCH more useful tip than most even realize. I occasionally work with quebracho colorado, a wood similar to mesquite. Hard as nails and leaves a glue-like gunk on blades. If i didn't clean my blade, i would have to throw it away after every project because of the burn marks the blade leaves when dirty.
I got in a good habit of cleaning mine when I upgraded to ridge carbide blades. It hurt to spend that much at first but when I cut 2 inch oak and maple on my little saw glad it was on there. My 2 neighbors both 30 year woodworkers were both speechless till I told them I swapped my blade didnt tell at first. ( they told me my saw would bog down and burn it I should let them cut it for me )
When I think how often I have to clean my router bits it's a mystery to me that I have never thought to do the same to my saw blades. I've just popped out to my shop and my sawblade teeth are covered in that resin build up. Not only that, but the last time I used my 60 tooth blade it left burn marks on the oak I was cutting. So top tip James. Thanks for pointing it out.
[EDIT] I've had a look around at what various people use as a solvent, and I'm going to try dishwasher powder in very hot water.
Dawn dish soap. I can specifically attest to it's effectiveness. But I usually just give mine a quick go in the ole parts washing bin. Takes a massive 35 seconds to get everything off. Now I will say it's about a trillion times more caustic to flesh and face than Dawn but man is it FAST! Light coat of Baristol and I'm rocking again
Dishwasher powder can be rather caustic. I'd recommend dish liquid (Dawn), or Simple Green. I use Simple Green and it works just as James demonstrated in the video using the specialty cleaner.
how about just putting the blades and bits in the dishwasher to start with? maybe i should give that a try...
regarding the caustic nature of dishwasher detergents: the blades are actually quite resistant to high pH. I tried cleaning a messy, very cheap blade in oven cleaner, 10 wt% sodium hydroxide with some surfactants, that's about as caustic as is gets. Left it to soak for about 30 min. It corroded the steel quite obviously, but the matte surface layer that formed seemed to protect (passivate) the steel from further corrosion. Actually, steel, be it carbon steel or especially stainless, is apparently very resistant to caustic environments, because it forms this passivating layer. So I am not too afraid of the dishwasher, but lets see
@@DerDanachDenkende let us know how it turns out!
@@Butterball3588 I used a quick 30 min program at 60 °C. The gunk is gone, but there are small rust spots (they look like dried up droplets) here and there. Very superficial, but a clear sign for corrosion. So I guess I wouldn't recommend it to others so far...Maybe a lower temperature, different detergent or hand drying could prevent it, but idk for now. I looked up the detergent I used, and it contains (or produces) hydrogen peroxide, which, combined with the phosphates in it, explains the corrosiveness to steel.
James Hamilton, you are a national treasure! Your videos are pure woodworking gold. Thank you so much for being a great teacher. My woodworking has improved immeasurably under your tutelage!
Simple Green has long been my go to blade cleaner.
Thanks very much for the tip Stumpy, I took my circular blade off and visited the dentist - took some time cleaning - the result - all I can say is WOW. Spent this afternoon ripping some 45mm thick hardwood. No teeth marks, no burn marks just a lovely 220 grit sandable surface :) Great advice.
Only recently, I discovered the difference a clean blade makes. I was having trouble with burn marks and was about to get the blade sharpened. I looked at the blade and noticed all the crud. Naaah that can't be it, but let's just try anyway. I was shocked at the difference a little scrubbing made. I used 409 and an old toothbrush. Really made a huge difference.
I've been using 409 degreaser for this purpose for years, does a nice job and it's safe.
Thanks. It has never crossed my mind to clean my blade. Awesome.
As a steel fabricator I use carbide blades on my chop saws and cleaning and oiling them makes them last 2-3 times as long. Not to mention they cut extremely clean and the blade doesn’t chatter to make a wider kerf. Great tips as always. I do love making my tools last longer.
also dont push on the material. let the saw/weight do the work. this is especially for abrasive disks. you can destroy good disks in minutes if you go full 200lbs gorilla on it. just let gravity do it and the disks will last 5~10x longer.
@@SupremeRuleroftheWorld That is 100% a fact. The heat and friction alone make the blades last so much longer when your applying light but even pressure.
What? Just use an abrasive chop saw & a belt sander!
*Just kidding, don't do that. Carbide chop saws for metal are literally the only way to go.
Sackmaster what chop saw do u use? Evolution saw? Slugger saw?
Isn't a chop saw's speed too high for a teeth blade?
Another effective and low cost option is to use a pencil eraser. The standard issue pink school eraser is all that is needed. Scrubbing with cleaner is best, but the eraser can be used with the saw still mounted.
I can vouch for what a difference cleaning you blades makes. In fact, not only do I need to clean the blade in my table saw I also need to do the ones for my miter saws! I can feel the drag in my 12" 100 tooth blade I use for doing trim work!
Never cleaned my blades before. Will now! Great info.
I am just a very occasional woodworker/craftsman and it has never occurred to me to clean my saw blades till now.
Fantastic video because I now have something to do tomorrow since the Xmas lights are all up.
I cleaned my blade the other week, now I don't get a burnt wood smell and smoke filled garage. Worth doing.
Finally a use for all those old frisbees lying around the house!
As is often the case, your timing is good. Thanks very much for the tips, I'll put them to use very soon.
I saw you mention cleaning the blades about a year or two ago, and I now clean them all once a week. Personally, I just use Simple Green, as it is cheap and works well. It has extended my blade life significantly. A rip blade I had replaced, but never threw away, was revived and worked for at least another four months of pretty heavy use before finally being pitched due to it actually being dull and having a chip. Sharpening in my area is nonexistent, and the cost to ship my Diablo blades to Freud for sharpening is basically equal to buying a new blade on Amazon. If I had a local sharpener, I'd use them, but the shipping costs to Freud just don't make sense. The nearest physical sharpener is over an hour away. Two, two hour trips - they don't sharpen the same day - just wasn't worth it. I would do it if I was using a WW II, but a Diablo blade... nah.
Boiling water and baking soda works REALLY well, cheaper than anything else. Just wait until it cools off enough so you don't burn your fingers. Sprinkle baking soda in the pan/bucket lid, set the blade on it, sprinkle more on top. Pour enough boiling water on blade to just submerge. Wait until you can just touch it, scrub and rinse.
I use Simple Green to clean my blades. I'm lazy, and I don't do it often enough. When I do it, I notice the difference immediately. It's also important to do this with your circular saw blades and miter saw blades (and your track saw if you have one).
I've noticed that cutting woods with a lot of sap or resin in them can gunk up my blades pretty quickly. I made a display stand out of mystery pallet wood for some pumpkins that my family carved for Halloween last year. It made sense to use the pallet wood because I saw the pallets next to a dumpster in my neighborhood right before Halloween and because this wood was going to get recycled again right after Halloween. It was going to sit outside in the rain with pumpkins on it, and I knew that pumpkin-goop could get on the wood if any of the neighborhood squirrels got to the pumpkins before Halloween. I just wanted something quick and cheap. Well, the pallet wood that I used had a ton of sap in it, and it very quickly gunked up my miter saw blade. The blade made burn marks on the cuts by the end of my project. However, once I cleaned it with Simple Green, it was cutting like new on the next project.
I like the bucket lid idea! When I clean my smaller 6 1/2" circular saw blades, I sometimes use the tin takeout containers that I get with my pasta dishes from the Italian restaurant in my neighborhood, but I agree that a plastic bucket lid would work really well for this for all the reasons that you mentioned!
Thanks for the timely reminder, Stumpy! Simple Greened my 3 blades and had less burning for Purple Heart, cherry and maple coasters run. Appreciate your balanced and Crystal-clear discussions. Happy holidays!
Wonderful video! Better yet....very helpful!! Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information to keep your saw cutting properly. Stay safe, Fred. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻✋🏻✋🏻
I just stumbled on this. Thanks for the tips. I like the way you present tips and will be checking back more.
I’m a little excessive most likely, but I clean my router bits and saw blades after a job. I also use a thin coat of blade lubricant after cleaning (Bostik makes the one I use, but. I’m sure there are others out there as well. The benefit of frequent cleaning and coating is that it is very easy and fast to do because your blades are already “ conditioned” so no scrubbing. You don’t use much product either for the same reason and both Trend cleaner and Bostik Bladecoat aren’t really inexpensive, but both work great together.
Sorry, but I don't take the word of marketers about product safety and biodegradability. Are they hiding the main active ingredient? Then bye. :)
You Just have love tips that have the highest value to cost ratio!!! Ten minute task with common tools on hand and Voilà! A new blade! dishwashing soap works just fine...
Amazing video!
I always learn a lot from your videos. You do great research and give a great and thorough presentation with lots of tips.
Your video with your daughter making cabnet doors. Inspired me to teach my daughter woodworking and its been great. She does well and learns fast.
Thanks again.
I cannot believe how dirty all my blades were. I followed your video, and presto, like new. Thanks for this tip
Oh great, now I need to go and get a bucket lid. You and your fancy tools! Seriously, excellent suggestion.
Great video. I never considered this. Thanks for sharing these tips. As a newbie I can use all the help you can provide.
I am totally going to try this, I was about to send in two Forest blades that I've never cleaned for sharpening because they keep burning and I assumed they were just dull.
I'll be pretty stoked if it turns out I can just keep using them!
I had to restore a century-old garage door using long leaf yellow pine. The sap gummed up everything on my saw. Thanks for this fantastic tip!!!
I use a mixture of mayonnaise and teriyaki sauce. Tastes great! Oh, wait… that’s for sushi. Nevermind.
Funny!
Funny!
Your you tube posts are always well done and relevant. A good use of my time. Thanks for the good ideas that you share.
I purchased some Trend per your previous recommendation and this stuff is AMAZING. Works like a charm, I use it on my pellet Smoker and Weber. For the pellet somker it keeps the temp. probe clean with no effort. And yes, it is very easy to use on my blades too. The best product to have on hand. Thanks again for this resource! !! !!!
It’s time I say thank you for all your great ideas and tutorials. I build guitars out of cigar boxes. I make my own necks. That means I cut and shape wood with sharp metal tools and your videos are very helpful. Thank you for the effort you put into them.
Learned this a few years ago half the blades I thought were bad were just dirty dull from dirt and sap thanks for the vid be safe out there
I like the bucket idea. Never would have thought of that.
Background of these videos is such a flex :)
Excellent tip. Thank-you.
Excellent and comprehensive video.
As always, very helpful tips much appreciated.
Pretty interesting indeed! Thanks, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Dwight is so smart and helpful.
I'll clean my blades tomorrow. Thanks for the reminder. I've cleaned them a few times, but not enough. Keep the brief shop tips coming.
Try boiling water from a kettle. Free.
I clean my blades before each project. Only takes about 30 min. I use a drop of Dawn and just enough water to cover the blade on the bucket lid. Let it soak for a bit and toothbrush the pitch off. Dry and then WD-40 them and dry them off again.
Glad you mentioned Simple Green. Very effective, full strength.
I use pinesol from the dollar store, works perfect
One of the most relaxing voices on the Internet!
I remember seeing this in one of your past videos
I've been using that blade and bit cleaner for a few years now, same bottle, and it works really well. That, a toothbrush and a 5gal bucket lid and it is very easy to clean my table saw blade.
Just use a cheap $200 20-gallon recirculating automotive parts cleaning solvent tank. Mine has a bunch of stuff mixed in with the cleaner, like diesel fuel and brake cleaner and whatnot, but it sure does clean parts well. Probably be a bad idea to smoke around it though… ;P
You're absolutely right! For decades I've used a Frisbee, Formula 409 and a tooth brush.
I was cutting some new pine boards and found that I had to clean the blade every few feet of cut there was so much sap!
I use corn oil. It makes my skin soft and shiny.... no, seriously, it's sap that's the main culprit. Sap dissolves in vegetable oil, and it prevents rust as well.
It takes a few minutes for it to dissolve, I just start it first, then come back in 15 minutes when I'm done with something else, and brush it down.
Clear and precise well done
I put my blades in the dishwasher when my wife’s otherwise distracted. Does a super job!
I put my running shoes in the washer too. Way better than the clothes washer. Just don't get caught. ;-)
Man I do miss tide. Been boycotting p&g for about two years now. I dare any of you to attempt it yourselves. They make just about everything
I saw an older video you did using this cleaner and bought some and it made a huge difference. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with us in a clear manner with no filler and nonsense!
Great tips. I’ve been using a 5 gal bucket for the last year as well and with simple green!
About a month ago, I used brush cleaner to clean my blades. When painting my wood hauler (4x8 trailer) , I needed a paint that would stick to rust, therefore I needed a volatile brush cleaner. When I finished cleaning my brushes I said, ah-ha, my saw blades need cleaned. This is the first time I used something that harsh, but it worked well. Normally I use simple green.
I bought a 1/2 gallon pump up sprayer from Harbor Freight, which I keep filled with a 4-1 water to Tide mixture. I never thought about using it for my saw blades. I will have to try that next time.
Simple Green HD ( it's PURPLE - of course) and a brass tooth brush... the SG-HD mixed 50/50 .... practically cleans the blade without the brush. a few sprays on the one side, flip the blade a few sprays on that side - sit for say 5 min, brush the faces, rinse, done.
Warm (almost hot) simple green is very effective, tannic acid from oak attacks the binder in the carbide so it is important to clean after a long run of oak. If you get burning on hard maple it is likely from prior cuts in oak.
Great upload have never thought about cleaning the blade its on 2days list hello from Australia
"Third, it is just the right size for a saw blade."
Well, it is just the right size for a TEN INCH saw blade. But too small for my 12 inch blades. I haven't found a 12 inch lid or pan that is actually a full 12.00 inches across.
My blades would slow and smoke when they got gummed up.
I used a wire wheel to clean them by running it opposite the cut direction.
BTW, Trend cleaner contains ethoxylated alcohols and sodium carbonate according to its MSDS, so isopropyl alcohol and degreaser might work as well.
Thanks for the advise! I cleaned a used routerbit today that was used to cut MDF. After cleaning the bit cut way better that last time. As I didn’t have any specific cleaner, I just used dishwashing soap with water (half/half). For now this work quite ok and saves money 🤑
Who can afford to pay 💰 for blades to be sharpened? I know I can’t! I am trying to live off of S/S! Try doing that when you are disabled and can’t work! I’m just grateful to be able to sit in my shop and piddle around. As for sharpening my blades, I have an advantage most do not. Back in the 70’s I had a professional sharpening business. My problem was that was about the time we had the recession hit. So, there went my business. But now I still know how to sharpen any blade, I just need the time to do it.
Many people use and recommend Simple Green. I do not.
The folks at Simple Green also say not to soak carbide blades in regular Simple Green. In the past the word was it could eat at the binder holding the carbide to the blade.
Probably that process wouldn't cause a piece of carbide to fling itself at you, but I wouldn't risk it.
Simple Green has a product, Simple Green Pro HD which is ok for soaking.
I prefer using washing soda dissolved in water myself. I hate the simple green smell. So does my wife, so we don't have it in the house. Washing soda doesn't smell, it doesn't catch on fire, and it is very inexpensive. The powder dissolves in water and you soak the blade in it. Depending on concentration, it is very fast. Be sure to keep it out of your eyes. I would say the same for the Trend product, simple green, brake fluid, oven cleaner, and so on. Wear safety glasses.
I hear some people use baking soda in water. That is a different product, but if it works you could use that. Keep that out of your eyes as well.
Right, Stumpy ! i took an angle grinder, with tapered twisted wire brush, and brushed off the plastic coating, on skillsaw blades, also table saw 10 " one. Cuts better, and doesn't have as much resistance to the ' allready cut '' wood. Kerf, is another BIG key, as well. ! good luck, all. Lid is a ' nifty ' idea, thankyou.
Had always assumed that the blade needed sharpening when it got slow and we saw the buildup. This is in commercial settings to.
Ha ha! "Exposed!" A blade-sharpeners trade-secret they don't want to talk about. Who knew?
First let say that all the Stumpy said is correct and good advice, Ok I went out and grabbed a Oldham 60 tooth I had recently change out because of poor performance and I discovered that a plastic like film covering the teeth area and about 1.5 in inward, than I got to thinking what I had cut with that blade and I could remember cutting Plastic PVC moldings, polyurethane painted wood pc,s and ABS plastic pipe but this coating was also the coating the factory had put on the blade to make it cut better so cleaning required using Lacquer thinner and sanding with 500grit wet or dry which produced a great result, the point to all of this- is don't be a dummy like me and cut plastics at all, and if the goo won't come off try a little rubbing alcohol or even Lacquer thinner, have a dedicated blade for plastics and painted wood lastly check your blades often the factory coating may have gotten too hot and is the problem. Stumpy thank you.
Everyone's tools seem to like chemicals as a regular offering. Mine, well, they like a true sacrificial offering of blood. No job ever gets done without it...
Simple green is a great cleaner/ degreaser...still, use gloves though...if it strips the oil off your part, it will have no problem stripping the oils in your skin, making you use O'Keeffe's or some other product.
now i am retired and my workshop is at home, i just take the blade into the kitchen sink. pour a kettle of boiling water over it with some dish liquid. wait a minute and all the crud comes off. before i used to soak them in meths, which i think you americans call de natured alcohol.
Thanks for sharing, I just use some powder laundry soap, but you do have to let it soak for a bit 15 to 20 min, then it comes right off. 🤘😎
I follow the same method and cleaner and it really does work well. The only thing I’d suggest is that folks do wear gloves. Someone once advised me never to put anything on my skin that I wouldn’t drink. While that’s not practical for me - I wouldn’t drink deodorant for instance - I got the sentiment as skin does absorb liquids and even if the manufacturer says something isn’t toxic, I prefer not to take the risk with chemicals.
I have a pair of gloves that I can reuse, which are a bit thick, as they’re designed to cope with solvents, but mean I throw away fewer disposable gloves.
You can erect a 15 foot base 51.8 degree pyramid out in your back yard and put the blade(s) 1/3 of the way up in the center. That oughtta do it. Make sure to point it right.
Don't laugh.
Every time I swap it out for the rip or dado set which is a couple times a month. And I thought Simple Green worked great...until I tried the TREND stuff...WOW, it is purpose built and works GREAT!!! Result: less burning, better quality of cut - it's all actually true (not that we ever doubted you James)
Cheap Kerosene works just as well as any expensive cleaning "fairy dust".
I use to get Craftsman Gum an Pitch remover it worked so good just spray on let set a few minutes an rinse non toxic safe to use simple but I haven’t saw for probably 40 years great video great advice thanks
WD-40 works great on Pitch Build-up
Godamit mr stumpy I always buy things I didn’t even know I needed lol mines on the way and thank you I’m making better stuff thanks to you,..
I have access to 100 % biodiesel. It’s a great degreaser and solvent, super mild on the hands, and $4 a gallon. But, it will melt the lettering off the blade!
I recently found out that a dirty blade will also effect the sensitivity of a Sawstop. I had been cutting some very pitchy pine and sometime afterwards was explaining to a friend the blade sensitivity. With the saw off, of course, you can touch the blade and watch the red light flash. Not this time.The pitch had put a very thin film on the blade even though I had cut plenty of other material after the pine. Cleaned the blade and works fine now.
Great video. Could a guy use a small hand held clothing steam cleaner - or would that be a problem for the teeth attachment...? Thanks🔨