▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ *Glues in this video:* -Titebond 1 (General use): amzn.to/3ztSqUE -Titebond 2 (tacky, faster dry, water resistant: amzn.to/3ztSqUE -Titebond 3 (longer open time, water proof, dark color): amzn.to/3ztSqUE -Liquid hide glue: amzn.to/3ztS28I -2 Part Epoxy: amzn.to/3HCdnzF -Stickfast CA glue: amzn.to/3tgz3xx -Hot Glue Gun: amzn.to/3raqyBt *More Education:* -Table saw throat insert video: ua-cam.com/video/gzdF-bLXc8Q/v-deo.html -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► MyWoodCutters: mywoodcutters.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
Keep in mind that kicker causes a weaker CA joint. For most situations it doesn't matter, but something to think about if you need max strength. I love slow-zap thick CA for most jobs. E6000 is good for sticking oddball stuff together with good flex resilience. Poly's good for a lot of stuff because it sticks to damn near anything, fills gaps, and has some flex, but yeah not really a 'wood' glue.
I feel you missed a ‘ biggie ‘ I use a product’ “cascamite” You mentioned construction glue’s but this product has fallen out of favour…. A resin power you mix with water. It has a 30 minute cure time and expands to fill gaps so needs clamps. Very waterproof. Used to glue kitchen worktops and I’ve used it successfully on boats. It’s probably equivalent to tightbond 3 but keep the power dry and use YEARS later .so for longer term storage a useful option. Fallen out of favour probably because it needs mixing. Not straight from a bottle. Give a small pot of powder a go The retired old timer swore by it or at it !!!
Hello, this isn't a huge question or anything but I just got into connecting bords using dowels and wood glue, how does the regular gorilla glue compare to the gorilla wood glue? Because, I saw you mention just the regular glue and not the wood glue which I just thought a little odd since I didn't think the regular one was meant for wood at all, but I guess having worked with glue as much as you probably have you know a deal more than I do, thanks.
As usual the Mr Rogers of wood gives the info. One of the reasons I like this guy is because he is succinct. Some people rattle on with info that isn't necessary. My patience taps out long before they finish their soliloquy!
25 years as a furniture restoration professional with my own business and one of the most unique uses for Gorilla Glue I ever came up with was in the restoration of weathered, dry rotted, cracked and almost pull'em apart with your fingers window sills. I am talking of course about the weather side. We purchased an old farm house about 10 years ago and several sills really could have been broken off with your hands. Solution. (best done on a cloudy day) Mist the window sill thoroughly (the gorilla likes it damp as Stumpy Nubs says) Don a pair of heavy duty rubber gloves or a couple of pair of the blue ones, lay on a coat of gorilla brushing (very stiff brush) it into all those huge cracks and crevices or just work it in with your fingers if you like using a squeegee motion across the grain to force it in, you don't have to level it to the top of the crevices, obviously because this stuff is going to foam out of there and all over the entire top as well, as you might expect. Let it do it's thing. After it sets up nice and hard take your multi tool (vibrator tool) with a flat blade installed and "shave" off the top of the window sill. If the glue has set well you can now go for your orbital sander and sand the whole thing. (Gorilla sands pretty well if you let it set up well) Try not to go too crazy with the sanding because some of the gorilla has penetrated the "punky" wood of the surface wood and it will waterproof the surface for you and give it a new surface as well... but you would like to have it relatively smooth Next step prime it with a decent primer after that dries take a premium caulk apply to the whole top surface smoothing with your freshly gloved hands or use a auto body squeegee....smooth it out as best you can because this is the surface you are going to paint. (misting the caulk might help you out here and working on that cloudly day as well.) After your caulk dries you are ready to apply your finish paint. Since the glue jumps gaps and grabs without a clamp this procedure holds tight quite nicely. My window sills have held up now for over nine years pushing 10 with no deterioration. I know this seems to be dicey but it doesn't take that long, at all , compared to taking out a whole sill. Hope this helps with someone that has a house over 100 years old as I have. Edit: would like to add that the reason for the caulk coating is that, gorilla when cut and sanded is very porous, bubbly if you will and it looks like foam in the cracks, the caulk fills in those bubbles. PS: Acetone clean up, on the gorilla glue, if you get it on you or surrounding surfaces.....get after it fast, it doesn't take prisoners.
@@evanleebodies I am not a scientist, just a gorilla glue user at times, so take what I say with a grain of salt.... polyurethane glues (not necessarily gorilla glue) are used in the installation of car windshields and installing polycarbonate windows in aluminum hulls of boats/ships, so waterproof, yes. As far as UV damage I would think these bonds would be protected from that with a molding of some sort. UV kinda "works" on everything over time, so I would definitely paint surfaces with a UV blocking coating such as several coats or house paint or sheet metal or something depending upon your application. An example of UV damage to polyurethane foam would be if you have ever used a foam gap filler such as "Great Stuff", this stuff, if left to weather without a coating will turn yellow over time and get dry and flakey, but if painted it lasts just like wood. These gap fillers are like a watered down version of gorilla glue...they have some adhesive qualities also, but not like the actual glue.
I collect vintage guitars. They almost always require the neck joint to be disassembled and reset after decades of use. The constant asymmetric tension caused by the strings cause the neck geometry to change over time making the guitar difficult to play. Fortunately all these older guitars are constructed with hide glue making the neck joint disassembly easier.
Hide glue is only glue to use for music instruments. Its traditional, reversible and it cures really hard. All other glues stay little bit flexible but hide glue when fully cured is almost crystal. Its joints do not dampen the sounds in instrument.
Organ builders generally use hide glue as they know everything will need to be taken apart again in the future. There are a few exceptions who use foam glue (to the dismay of everyone who has to releather or rebuild instruments where foam glue was used).
@@UnderTheFloor79 Music instruments + high humidity is never a good mix. It is not a glue for boatbuilding. It is a glue for violins and guitars and antique furniture.
I like those tubes of stick glue that are like oversized chapsticks. I just used it to hold down paper templates that I make on the printer. When I'm done, it's easy to peel off and clean up. Just don't count on it for ANY kind of strength.
I also use the old glue sticks to assemble rocking horses and baby cradles with out fasteners, that way the kid don't get stabbeb when the piece collapses. I'm kidding I'm kidding.
A much less used adhesive but often my favorite is rubber cement. It’s not always useful, but as a maker, I often find myself attaching two materials that “shouldn’t” be attached together. The rubber cement adds enough flexibility to adjust to different expansion ratios and densities while still maintaining a strong joint.
Also, if you use it wet, you can reposition for a good long time before it sets, and the joint will be easy to break. If you need immediate adherence you can apply the glue to both surfaces, let it dry, and press the two pieces together for an instant, agressive bond. It's harder to pry apart, though -- on paper you're looking at damaging the pieces -- so you have to be aware of that.
I have used gorilla glue to repair a crack by drilling into the end grain and first pouring in yellow glue followed by gg followed by a dowel. The glues foam into the crack and makes a nice repair. I have also used this trick to fix squeaky stair treads by drilling a small hole through the tread. Pouring in the yellow and gg then plugging the hole with a dowel. The glues expand and cure to fill the gap and stabilize the tread. Squeak gone. Gg is another tool in the toolbox and has its place.
Yes the moisture from the yellow glue activates the gg, but the foaming gg pushes the yellow glue into otherwise unreachable places. I also believe (untested) that gap filling properties of the gg are made stronger with the added yellow glue foam.
Your last statement is what I consider the key here. It's a Tool that's available. Trying to work without the right tool can be done, but it is always better to have more options. Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
I find Gorilla Glue quite useful in certain situations, but certainly wouldn't use it for furniture/cabinetry work. For example, putting a picnic table together using Gorilla Glue, it is under the exposed surface, so any slight mess from the stuff is out of sight, but it holds things together much better than just mechanical fasteners and is simply stronger than any other glue I've used. I also used it extensively building a small dock at a pond. But for furniture making that foam would be a NIGHTMARE! I'll stick with Titebond for that work. One thing I learned to do using white glue (in the days when Titebond and the like were yet unborn) was in a special glue-up for turning on a lathe. This was for turning on a face plate. The wood for the project was glued together, then a scrap board was glued to the bottom BUT with a sheet of bond paper (notebook paper or typing paper) between the scrap piece and the actual project. Then, the face plate was screwed to the scrap once the glue had set. After turning, a wide wood chisel could be placed on the seam where the scrap was glued on, flat side TOWARD THE GOOD PART. A good whack with a mallet, and the paper split, leaving white fuzz half the original thickness of the paper on each surface. This was easily sanded off the work piece and done. I don't know if this would work with other glues, and I would be afraid to try.
My favorite use of CA glue is with blue painter’s tape. Tape both sides of the joint, glue on one side and accelerator on the other and you have an instant joint for patterns, jigs, etc. that can be easily disassembled and won’t harm the surface like double sided tape can. There’s no residue to clean up, either.
You mean use the CA to glue the non-sticky sides of the tape to each other to make double-sided tape, not glue the joint together, right? Or are you masking the sides of the joint to prevent the glue from spreading too far away from the joint?
@@edeaglehouse2221yes - take two pieces of tape and stick them to the surfaces then use CA glue to glue the non-sticky sides of the tape to each other (I also use accelerant to get it to set faster.) Afterwards you can gently pry the pieces apart and you're. left with two pieces of tape glued together with the adhesive side out. The only caveat is not to use too much glue so it oozes out beyond the edges of the tape. I usually use 1 ½" tape to avoid this.
Shop was what got me through HS. I wish I had videos like this growing up. I am so glad that Woodworking will not become a lost art with these videos with a lot of shop programs getting cut. Thanks for the content.
I totally agree. I grew up badly abused. My woodworking teacher saw past me being female to my potential. I was at the top of his class because he built me up when everyone else tore me down. He was an oasis! I'm sure Mr Rhodenizer would have greatly appreciated @StumpyNubs James...thanks for my ongoing lessons...
Plain old Elmer’s Glue-all is probably the most underrated glue out there. It’s cheap, strong, dries clear, cleans easily. I’ve built dozens of stringed instruments with it.
Using PU glue on damp wood has another drawback, depending on how damp the wood, it may shrink when dry, PU is brittle, the joint will fail quicker. I say quicker because every joint I've glued or been around that was glued with PU fails more quickly, yes, every joint. Another white glue you may want to consider is Roo Superbond. Type 2 rated and sets quickly. I typically do use it on glue ups that need a longer open time. They also make a melamine glue, Roo Clear, it works on nearly everything including it's intended purpose. It remains more flexible than any of the others, not advised for lathe glue ups for that reason. Roo makes a yellow glue as well, it's on my list to try. With both Titebond and Roo, my search for non-CA wood glue is over. No, not sponsored by either, just good products for more options.
@@willehster I'm glad it's not just me then 😂 I don't use it often but when I do, I spend the next few days trying to make my fingernails stop sticking to my skin
but thats how you spot the true craftsmen of today: tip of one finger dirty with CA glue and some kind of dust -- any kind of dust: wood dust, stone dust, metal dust
Hello Jim, I am a long time amature (yeah my spelling is horible :) ) woodworker and have recently found your videos on You Tube. I just wanted to say that, not only have I learned alot from you, but I am very glad to see that you take shop safety as serious as I do.You have given me hours of pleasure watching your Cool Tools and project videos, and your project and shop tips are unsurpassed. Great job!! It is obvious that you are one of the most skilled and talented woodworkers of the modern age, and I just wanted to say thank you for your contribution to our craft.
I scavenge those dessicant packs from everything, and have a zip lock bag full of them ready for reuse. Its possible to reactivate them in a warm oven to drive off any moisture they might be holding on to.
When lining a small box I made for my granddaughter, I cut some pieces of cardboard just undersized and then applied craft felt with spray adhesive. The box looked pretty nice for her Barbie jewellery!
If anyone doesn't know, CA glue will react with baking soda very quickly to make a very hard substance with decent adhesion. I've actually used this to create a strong filler to repair or build up something. It is tricky because the reaction is so fast the CA glue won't penetrate very far. But you can work with it.
I'm currently "wearing" a CA/sodium-bicarb "pseudo-thumbnail" - Was trying to load a rat trap back around the middle of September or so, and managed to fumble things in such a way that the snap-bar came down right across the cuticle of my right thumb at full force. After some appropriate cussing, the to-be-expected blood-blister in the nail-bed formed up right on schedule, turning almost the entire nail black, and I started the "wait for it to grow out" process. Said process proceeded as expected, eventually resulting in new nail behind the slowly creeping blood blister. And as a bonus, the "leading edge" of the new growth came in pushing a linear "crater" of mostly dried blood and incredibly poor-health nail ahead of it. A crater that, after a couple of days, eroded away to leave a sharp edge that did its best to catch on *ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING* that got anywhere near it. Had a bright idea based on a youtube video - scrub, brush, scrape, dig, and otherwise clean out as much of the "crater" as possible. Dry well. Fill to heaping with baking soda. Touch baking soda with a water-dipped Q-tip (CA wants water to cure - vapor in the air is usually enough) to get some moisture into it, then add one drop superglue. Wait 10 minutes (it set up nearly instantly, but wasn't fully cured for several minutes) then break out a diamond-dust file and shape to something like smooth. It's not perfect, by any stretch of the imagination - the color match is completely nonexistent, for one thing - but at least it's a reasonably smooth, non-snagging "repair" that I don't have to worry about catching on something and ripping the nail off in a spray of blood and screams of agony.
Another wonderfully informative video. Every glue has its use. That said, I use hide glue almost exclusively, being a musical instrument maker. It's more reversible than any other glue, and it holds well enough, given good joints.
Storing your CA glue in a container with a desiccation pouch works great to prevent clogs, too. Also, Gorilla Glue works great on other repairs, such as ceramics, where you can file or sand away the foamy parts for a nice clean joint. And, rubbing alcohol is a very effect release agent for hot melt glues. Just touch the joint with a dab of alcohol, wait a few seconds and the joint will fall apart.
I find gorilla glue to be useless in the wood shop also but VERY useful in many other places around the house. I once used it to glue a chunk of concrete back in place after a crack filled with water and froze overnight. That was 3 years ago and its still holding nicely.
I have used gorilla glue to combat squash vine borers in the garden. I inject it with a syringe into the hollow squash stems near where I suspect the worm to be. The gorilla glue foams up and down the stem from that point, encapsulating the worm.
Very informative! 100% agree about expanding gorilla glue. I’m not sure what gorilla “clear” glue is made from, but it’s amazing. I glued a broken ceramic lid together and it holds when nothing else would.
"Yellow" PVA glue generally has a phenol/formaldehyde (PF) resin added to it to give it more weather resistance. The PF resin has a deep reddish-brown color and imparts the yellow hue to the normally white PVA glue.
The application I remember where PU might be the right choice is bent lamination of slender boards, if they need soaking to bend better in assembly. I’ve never done it myself, and other glue types may of course work well too. But the dual use of the soak for both bending and setting the PU feels like a good match
Nope. I did that once. PU glue is so brittle when dry that my when my laminated curve was impacted lightly a small stress crack started then it grew quickly until the whole piece blew apart. I said many bad words. My second attempt was with UF glue which has lasted for 15 years and still going. Strong, tough, and won't creep like PVA.
THE best way to bend wood, is to get it wet and hot enough to bend, and then put into a form... BE PRECISE WITH YOUR FORMS!!! THEN you dry the stuff while it's clamped solid... Once dry and formed, you can even "heat treat" it as applicable... BUT get it dry, and it generally won't put new or different stresses on the joints whether you laminate or use other methods of joining (like length-wise). Sucks, I know... BUT the "long way round" is generally the better method. Be patient... It pays off. Finally, yes, a lot of the time you do it, at least in the beginning, there's a frustrating amount of "spring out" when you take the dried wood off the forms... It's generally predictable though, just to different degrees depending on your practices and purposes... SO my answer (arbitrary though it may be) was to make all my forms just a little bit tighter or smaller than I planned for the final fit-up. That way, it compensated for "spring out" and I got a lot closer to exactly what I'd measured for and intended to do. In any case, if you can wet/cook it and set it to form until as dry as possible, it really doesn't matter what glue you use... AND "heat treating" the so-called old-school way only results in a bit of char-darkening, not even any actual charring, to "fire harden" the wood... Just for clarity... in my dubious experience. Hope this helps... Bending is a frustrating and tedious business by nature. It takes a LOT of trial and error to get any good at it. It's worth the investment though, if you can possibly get into the stuff. ;o)
@@troyclayton so the carpenter I watched on Swedish telly 15-20 years ago just soaked the boards overnight and smeared the glue using his thumb right out of the bath, water running down the planks. It looked fun and effortless. His glue budget must’ve been large, he all but cast the construction in PU. I made a mental note of it, thinking I’d try it some day. Of course, the garden recliner he was making came together alright, but there’s no knowing if it sproinked out of form five minutes after turning the camera off :) Anyway, after reading these comments I’ll probably use a different glue if I ever get around to trying it out.
In highschool woodshop in the early 90's we were taught using white glue. Not too many years after that I started seeing the promotion and use of yellow wood glue everywhere. White glue always worked well for me but now I understand the purposes for the yellow (without all the sales pitch hype). This clears it all up, thank you!
The clear non-expanding PU glue has some properties that make it very useful for certain applications. It doesn't make the mess of the brown PU glue. PVA glue cures strong but is brittle, but clear PU bonds and remains very flexible and tough. Of course construction adhesive has good properties for some use cases too...
PU(R) is also used allot for gluing plastics onto wood e.g. ABS Edgebanding against melamine this also creates a watertight seam. but this is mainly used in industrial aplications
That’s a good point about the clear poly glue, however you’re mistaken when it comes to the PVA. It’s not nearly as brittle as people think it is, just peel some off your clamp after a glue up and give it a stretch. It’s not super flexible, but it’s not brittle. Given that and the fact that it’s cheaper and arguably easier to use than PU glue, I just can’t imagine a good use for it in my own shop. Maybe if I worked with plastics.
Purely as an experiment, so with a random piece of scrap and junk that I found in the trash, I fitted together a knife (trash blade) and handle with PU (Gorilla, specifically) glue. It was a bit of a bitch to clamp such that it wouldn't expand and push the damn blade out of the handle cavity... BUT... 20 YEARS later, and the knife still sees regular use, including hammering it through frozen food (like a frozen pound of bacon, or a "log" of hamburger) and regular washing... It's held up admirably for something that didn't cost more than a measure of Gorilla Glue and a blade I found in the trash... and some time... AND obviously, it's not for my lack of abuse to it. I don't give it ANY special care, and in fact, it's the first thing I hand to someone as a loaner or for "rough" work, since it's supposed to be tested and it's not to be fawned over like a favorite... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 I had a rafter tail crack in me. I don't want to rip off the entire roof to repair it. Gorilla glue fixed it, still holding 10 years later.
@@scottslotterbeck3796 Haven't gotten so ambitious as to bet the integrity of my house on the stuff... Hat's off to you, and congrat's (so far... so good?)... Hope it continues to hold a few decades more. ;o)
In just about 10 minutes I learned everything I ever wanted to know about shop glues! It just can't get better than that! Thank you for doing my work for me!
Great video on glues. Boat building and restoration I have used a lot of epoxies and Gorilla poly glue. Polyurethane glue has its uses. When it first came out, the hardwood candy store also had a bunch of green ash shorts on sale; cheap serendipity. I glued up a kitchen cutting board. A great test for waterproof glue and bonding because the ash was wet to begin with and the kitchen cutting board was alternately soaking wet then dried. I deliberately did not oil the board. Lasted for years. Finally one joint split. Too little glue on that joint, I think. I separated the split joint, quick pass over the jointer, more poly glue, then back into service the next day. One boats I used it to join fiddly bits of non-structural trim that would be painted. Worked very well, without the two part mess and expense of epoxy. Recently the best use was to glue back together splits in Redwood T&G 1x8. Very gently prying open the split, with a toothpick, and spread in the poly glue with an old toothbrush. Clamp with 2" clear box tape. The foaming expansion here is a big plus as the glue will push itself into areas of the split the toothbrush could not reach. And fill in some of the inevitable gaps left by splinters that fell out. Redwood T&G, once commonly used in Hawaii, is now either very expensive or unobtainable. Rescuing these boards is quite worthwhile. Poly isn't for every project, but for some, it is an excellent choice.
Polyurethane glue is great for squeaky floorboards. Sika Tech Grip is my choice. As for CA, i use powerflex and loctite 480 a lot in my workshop. Regular super glue is too brittle in some applications. However it is a great finish and finish repair.
I build wooden boats (among other projects) and recognise all the glues you have there, use most of them. But for boat building epoxy is king and a marine quality PU is queen (I use Collano Semparoc.) They aren't interchangeable, as you say the PU needs a tight fitting joint, epoxy is better at gap filling. Main advantages of PU is a. it doesn't need mixing (with potential wastage if you mix too much) and b. cleanup is easier and safer. Sanding epoxy generates toxic dust to which some people develop serious allergies. I also have a can of spray mount in the workshop for positioning paper patterns and a can of contact adhesive for sticking sandpaper to sticks and dowels to make custom shaped sanding tools.
I learned a lot from this video, but the main thing I learned was how wildly ignorant of the world of glue I really was. I have used nothing but Titebond 3 for all of my woodworking and will definitely be changing that. Thanks for the video!
The thing is, there's almost no setting where Titebond 3 isn't going to work -- so, at least if you're only using one you're using the one that is the most water resistant and creates the strongest bond. In that way, you're not using the wrong glue, just making your life a bit more expensive and difficult than necessary
The advantages of gorilla glue is that it fills irregular gaps and it can set rock hard and it bonds wood to practically anything, tiles, concrete etc. it can be messy though and it sticks on your hands for ages. It’s definitely got a place for general, multi uses and applications.
I had a leak in my (inner) washer hose and the appliance guy wanted $300 to come replace it. I put a dab of gorilla glue in the pinhole and Viola! No more leak! :D
I'll give another example for when gorilla glue is great in woodworking where the others struggle to keep up. If you are gluing two pieces together and you are looking for ultimate sheer strength, drill a bunch of holes into each surface before you join them with gorilla glue. The poly will expand into all of those holes and lock the two pieces together. The more holes you drill (up to a point) the better the sheer strength will be.
@@wil1685yup, lots of trapped bubbles that form if the gap is too large and it just expands in place, has no real strength in areas where that happens.
Another very useful video. I’ll use one suggestion immediately: storing CA glue in the shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular nuisance. Thanks!
In the freezer or refrigerator? I get really mad when I buy a bottle of CA glue and use it once go back to use it again month's later it's almost dryed up thick I have to pull it out with tooth pick
@@FortyHurts thank you, I put the CA glue in the freezer. I was wondering how to make the glue last longer. Every time I was buying it was always drying up on me seem like I was wasting it more than using it. Thanks again 40 Hurts 👍🏽
As someone who is clueless about woodworking your videos are excellent quality but they make as much sense to my uneducated mind as the Rockwell Retro Encabulator. You could completely make up anything and it would sound authoritative. Maybe some day I will better understand mechanics and woodworking. Thank you for not having annoying background music. Great videos!
Thank You Excellent information as usual In my experience over the long term (several years) epoxy tends to move if under constant stress. Where I’ve found polyurethane glue useful is with pressure treated wood.
I would have a field day in your shop!!! I mean I wouldn't produce anything more than shavings at this point but I'd still enjoy getting to know all the tools you have and the history of them. Keep up the great work!! Much love and respect🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾
Gorilla glue is amazing. I used it to attach wood to my kitchen counter sink cut out. I needed to make the hole smaller to support a smaller but very heavy sink. It expands a LOT which allows it to fill extreme gaps. So it's excellent for gluing things to very rough and jagged surfaces like concrete. The expanded glue is not a problem. Just put masking tape along the surfaces that the glue is going to spill out on. Scrape away the excess with a razor then remove the tape.
Very informative video, one glue i learned of back in shop class and I still use it today, it's a plastic resin powder glue made by Dap and its called wieldwood, I introduced this glue to our arsenal at a start up furniture company and would use it for repair work on old pieces and glue up multi layer boards and if aloud to set up over night will produce a stronger than wood joint. I turn alot of wooden Bowls and such and use it on those glue up too.
Another Great Video. The take home lesson that I will start using today is storing CA glue in my shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular pain in the neck. THANKS!
I've had bad experiences with polyurethane glue, even to the extent of outdoor pieces simply falling apart after a few months. I've known guitar neck joints glued with polyurethane that could be easily pried apart-hand pressure only. I can't think of any application I would use it for. (The "gap filling" foam has no structural strength to speak of.) I don't use cyanoacryliates on any joint that receives stress, as it has very poor shear strength. I've tried a few brands of construction adhesive, but they've all failed after a few weeks or months. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I don't buy pre-mixed hide glue. The shelf life of the crystals is practically forever, and mixing it up isn't that much of a hassle. YMMV
I have had good results with Gorilla Glue. I have even left pieces out in the rain as a test. They do have to be joined well and allowed to cure properly.
We use construction adhesive all the time (in addition to mechanical fasteners) to enhance the rigidity of framing members. Like behind tiled walls, underneath staircases, sistered joists in squeaky floors.
I use Gorilla Glue in chain saw carving because the logs have moisture in them. When I glue on a Bears arm or something the foaming doesn’t matter since I will be carving all the foam and extra wood off. I use 12” screws to clamp the pieces together for an hour while the GG sets. Remove the screws and replace them with GG on dowels for a permanent addition to the log or Bear. Thanks for another excellent presentation!
A great glue overview, thank you. What are your thoughts on alternatives; double sided tape, spray impact adhesive, blue painters tape, etc. How to peel or remove residue, clean-up etc.
I clean Scotch tape residues off wall paint with starting fluid for diesel engines. (Works fast ,Dries fast)Rotate your rag .Try to find the ones without cylinder lubricants.
I've used polyurethane glue for outdoor projects (tables, mostly) made from construction lumber (usually 2x12 SYP boards where I cut around the worst knots). Even if I let it sit for a while, the wood still has more moisture than I'd like which is a good fit for PU glue, and I don't have to worry about rough tenons as you point out. I use a carbide scraper to get the foam-out after the glue sets, then a good sanding to make sure the wood will take paint or deck stain.
What about combining different glues in the same task? I’ve seen a number of other users apply two different types during the glue up process, such as yellow glue for strength and CA glue for quick adhesion that eliminates the need for clamps.
James, Thank you! I Learned a thing or two here and I appreciate your approach as always. -CY *Consider adding thread locker “glues” to this fluidly fascinating facilitation of flowable functions. Loctite made its name on the red goo your cousin drowns his wheel studs in so the swamper tires don’t rattle the lugs loose, but there’s blue for removable fasteners, green, and they have sticks of the stuff now so you don’t squash the tube in your back pocket after a long day of wrenching! Just my opinion, but I definitely feel threadlockers are awesome addictives that adhere to the aforementioned advisory about adhesives. Alliteration aside, always ask an expert about adverse actions after you adhere your fingers together. Thank you as always, -CY
@@BTW... I am trying to connect my original career/interest in mechanics with woodwork: thread lockers and phenomenal for handling vibration related issues such as those found on every woodworking power tool I’ve ever used. Building your new table saw or resetting an old one? The creeping loctite is great for keeping trunnion settings at 90 while still allowing you to remove the nuts later without being Hercules. Mounting motors, guide bearings for bandsaw, and for setting studs in inserts on jigs. I see a lot of crossover uses because I have too much experience repairing issues caused by loose fasteners. Maybe I swayed your opinion, maybe not. I appreciate your anemia remark, and I agree there’s a plethora of better options like locknuts, nordlok washers, jam nut, and the list goes on, but I would rather tighten a fastener on my equipment once and build something with my time than run around to buy the Best option for retaining a belt guard on my bandsaw. Rattles bother me, maybe you’re okay with tightening thumb screws every time you fire up your equipment, but I am not. Cheers. -CY
Have to say that I share all of your opinions and experience with all of these glue types with the exception of polyurethane. I dismissed it for a long time until I saw a UA-camr use it on several projects. The first place I saw him use it was on a tight box joint. Personally box joint and dovetail glue ups make me more apprehensive than most others. With the polyurethane you get a glue that has a longer open time, acts as a filler, acts as a lubricant during assembly of tight joints and is really easier to clean up. Yes you have to use mineral spirits but even after it dries it's easier to clean up any squeeze out with a chisel or knife than PVA glue. No it's not a miracle glue to replace all others but it does have a place, at least in my shop. Don't be too quick to dismiss the Gorilla! ;)
I have a butcher knife I assembled "experimentally" with Gorilla Glue, and it's lasted 20 YEARS with regular beatings through frozen 10 lb "logs" of hamburger, bones, and is my go-to for loaning out to hunters who just want something quick and cheap to use for a field dressing implement, because if they break it or lose it, I'm not out anything precious... I found the blade in the garbage, and just gobbed the thing together back when Gorilla Glue was a relatively new product... Damn nearly as good as epoxy for some fit-ups! ;o)
I've always had the impression that it is a particularly strong adhesive, and it seems to stick pretty much anything to anything. I do take James's point about it foaming out of the joint and making a mess though. It also has a limited shelf life in that it forms a skin even with a well sealed container, so I buy it in smaller sizes nowadays.
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 It's funny when you mentioned '20 years' it reminded me of my Gorilla Glue experience. The front door to my apartment-conversion condo had a rough life before I bought the place. The hinges were really loosely mounted to the door and I had them addressed during my walk-through at closing. Sadly yet unsurprisingly they 'addressed' it by using larger screws. Thing is, it's a steel fire door with an internal wooden frame, and the screw holes in the frame are just sawdust as repairs had been attempted in the past over the years. Anyway, the door started becoming difficult to close again and it was the hinges at fault. Frustrated, while I came up with a long-term plan I decided to put some Gorilla Glue under the hinge plates, then shim the door level and plumb when closed while the glue cured. If you can believe it, that same glue is holding just fine after 18 years and you can close/latch it with one finger. I really want to fix it 'the right way' but hey it's working fine right now and for the foreseeable future. Further attempts at repair may screw it up!
@@TrevorDennis100 Yeah, the container size really matters... Trying to budget out the stuff so you don't keep a single container long enough for a significant loss when it turns into a brick in the bottle can be frustrating as hell... As to the mess... Meh... It only takes a few sessions of "trial and error" to get pretty skilled at joinery and seriously limiting the "foam-out" from expansion. The foam (if left undisturbed until cured) also doesn't run or drip like other glues. AND it's relatively soft enough that the exposed stuff can be trimmed right off with a decent, sharp knife. A little sanding with fine paper after that, and it's easily as useful as most anything else... Mostly, due to the cost, I reserve the stuff for situations where I am mixing wood and other materials, whether metal or plastic or even rubber and "strange joinery"... especially where it'll get abused and wet often. Most of the regular joinery is just cheaper and easier to do with almost everything else as James prescribed. ;o)
@@jaymzx0 Yep, among my earliest rules in any craft skills is "Never repair something that ain't broke."... As to hinges and doors... I had plenty of adventures (read "total clusterf***'s") getting doors repaired and mounted properly when I'd inherit a faulty situation... The shear weight of a door on the joints of hinges and whatever screws or other fastening hardware and wood are involved in the frame can (and will) tend to droop over time and cause more headaches than there are aspirin in the hemisphere.. ...it's even worse when humidity is a yo-yo... Instead of sawdust repairs, however, I've found that an improvised glue-pot and regular tooth picks or bamboo skewers are among the most effective for the longest time (unless you just gob the thing full of gorilla glue and jam the screws in place to resist "foaming out". The glue pot's useful to coat each toothpick or skewer with glue, and you can use a brush (or finger) to smooth out the layer... Then jam the pick or skewer into the hole as deeply as you can, adding more and more until the hole is basically filled in... Once cured in place, you can flush-cut them off, either with a small saw, or a hack-saw blade, or even a japanese saw with fine teeth... OR in the case of toothpicks, a good sharp chisel... and a follow up with sand paper. Then you can return to screws... either with the originals, or if you're updating, the latest roughly equivalent screw to those you'd extracted. Titebond products are easily durable and strong enough for pilot-holes where necessary, too. I generally reserve the Titebond III for exterior doors, since you've got to contend with weather, snow included, and hot and cold... humidity... etc... LOVE the tooth-pick and skewer "filler" trick ever since I learned it. It works damn fine for restoring antiques, too, since the heads of the screws will tend to cover the oddity of inserting wooden bits into worn holes for the threads to bit, and unlike sawdust, they have "long grain" for the glue to "bite" for a solid hold... IN any case, I'm not sure "fixed properly" involves toothpicks, bamboo skewers, or anything other than removing old wood and rebuilding... BUT I'll take the picks and skewers most times... in case you hadn't heard of the method. ;o)
I have passed over this video numerous times but decided to watch and am so glad I did. I've started using glue in my builds more and in addition to your explaining Gorilla glue you answered questions ajd filled in my lack of knowledge using yellow ( Titebond ) glue. Thank you for this help.
Thanks so much for saving us from buying the wrong glue for a certain situation. I once used epoxy to replace part of a bent windsor chair bowback, which was oak and I was amazed to find that it didn't hold worth beans but when I tried yellow glue , it worked well. So much for my thinking that epoxy could glue anything! Thanks for sharing.
More and more, I find these videos invaluable. Great explanation, keeps it simple, great camera angles…just all around good quality videos Keep it up. You are helping me a lot, and I’ll keep coming back to you
Good stuff. Back in high school wood shop, we used this powdered glue that we mixed with water. The stuff was tenacious. I think it was made by Weldwood, but that was 40+ years ago, so my memory is a bit sketchy on it. I do remember that when dry, the wood would break before the joint did. Interesting twist on the Gorilla Glue. I saw a guy use Gorilla Glue as a rub-in poly finish. I tried it on a small project and it was legit.
Yup. Weldwood Plastic Resin glue in powder form was used in my high school wood shop. Hopefully the product now made by Dap is the same. I still have my walnut & maple chessboard I made in shop class. Never knew it was a ureaformaldehyde glue until I googled it. I clearly did not read labels in my youth.
I used that stuff at college in 2003 to 2005. We used it for veneer glueing to a MDF or particle board core. We had a heated press that cured the glue in like 40 seconds or something quick like that.
Great voice video, really helpful to here genuine unbiased facts. I will say I use gorilla glue on job site jobs not wood working builds in a shop. Gorilla glue works great when using wood plugs on projects were you don’t have smooth fitting pieces, fills the gaps a cracks and when dry (only when dry) scrapes off easily. Again great job, can’t wait for the next one Alex
I've been also using "Titebond Quick&Thick Multi Purpose Glue". It's a white glue, dries clear and can be painted. Terrific glue for repairing broken things around the house such as ceramics or toys, etc.
This is a good summary and matches my hard-won experiences. The highly hyped Gorilla glue polyurethane is something I tried out in the late 90s when it was being advertised heavily ... what a mess to work with! A somewhat hard to find glue I really like is the slow set version o traditional PVA white glue often stocked by Garrett Wade. It is a good quality conventional PVA. I find great for complicated glue ups because it gives me time to work without the hassles of slow set epoxy. Theoretically it is also reversible with enough water and time, so I use it in situations where you are suggesting hide glue. Many moons ago I used traditional hide glue when helping my great uncle with his violin repair work. He would have a fit if someone assembled a fine violin with Titebond. Hide glue's easy reversibility is a must for instruments which may need to be opened up for repairs.
Tightbond 1 is used by many top rated luthiers. It is perfectly able to soften with heat or moisture, just like hide, hoof, and fish glues. Tightbond 2 and 3 are absolute NO NO for luthier work.
Firstly from this Kiwi, hobby wood worker. Thanks so much for all the wonderful and informative vieos you have posted over the years. I have learnt heaps from them. Re Glues. I use polyurathane glue for outdoor constructions. Landscaping, decks etc, I find it does a good job . I use it with a glue gun for these jobs. I'm a hobby luthier. traditionally heated animal and hyde glue was used for instruments for several reasons. Quality Instruments are almost certainly going to be disassembled over their life time. Hence what you said about chairs. Secondly in its hot state. It sets very quickly. This enables the luthier to place and secure a small part very quickly. just like with super glue. Thirdly in days gone by. there weren't necessarily a lot of other options. I began using the origional white PVA glue. In some places. Stringed musical instruments are under considerable tension. I discovered that under these conditions. White glue tended to creep. I have found the yellow glue doesn't. Its possible to release the yellow glues I use with moisture and heat which equals steam. You can also use white vinegar to release a variety of plastic based glues, including yellow glue. I occasionally use Epoxy resin. Especially for instance, for for setting carbon fibre flats into guitar necks for reinforcement. Epoxy is really the only glue that will adhere to thermo setting composites. I use super glue for fitting binding to the body of an acoustic instrument. it largely elminates the need for complex clamping systems. lastly, I also often use super glue to fill dents and wood gap imperfection that are to be laquered . I hope ive added to the debate. Once agin thankyou so much for what you do.
Yes, and bonds with concrete well, brick, tile, mortar. Got a place floor leveller won't work. Use white or yellow glue depending on your time, as a bonding filler.
Have you tried using Weldbond? It's a PVA glue and seems to hold as well as Tightbond, but dries clear. I've had really good results when gluing pieces that have been pre-finished or pre-painted prior to assembly.
I'm a big fan fo Weldbond, and actually came to the comments to say that it doesn't fit with any of James' descriptions of "white glue" -- in tests from Matthias Wandel a few years ago, it came out stronger than TB2, and is definitely more flexible. It also sets up in about 20 minutes vs an hour for TB2. Just be careful getting too much on joints you plan to hit with a flush trim bit -- it melts and re-solidifies more like hide glue, and will really gum the bearing on a flush trim bit.
Used Weldbond to build a small sailboat Worked excellently. See Bolgers instant boats, Titebond and PL Premium along with West system epoxy are favorites too in the small boat community.
This is a good glue use overview and I agree with most of what you stated here! One area where I disagree is that I would not write off poly glue/ gorilla glue for woodworking. I agree with your analogy regarding the negative aspects of this glue but it has some distinct positive attributes. The most significant attribute is that it adds no moisture to your material when gluing up things like face frames and panel doors that will be spray painted/smooth finish as opposed to a natural or stained finish. PVA glues impart moisture to the glue ups and swell the joined areas slightly and if you don’t leave them to fully dry out before sanding and finish painting there will depression telegraphed around the joint that you’ll see after it’s painted and the material finally dries out around the joint. Poly glues add no moisture to the joined area of the glue up, hence no swelling which allows you finish sand and paint much sooner as opposed to if you used PVA, plus poly glue has some gap filling ability that works well with painted finishes. Poly glue is also a better glue for this application than epoxy because of the hastened working/ curing time increasing production efficiency.
I remember Norm would use Poly glue when he would make projects from Teak. He said the wood had natural oils that made using standard glue less effective and could fail more easily. He would wipe the teak with alcohol then wet it before applying the poly. What are your thoughts on that James? Do you have much experience with Teak? Thanks for the great explanation video 😀
I haven't used teak, but I have had a glue joint fail in an edge-grain cutting board between two strips of padauk. It only happened once, but now whenever I glue padauk to padauk, I make sure to use a lot of glue (I usually use TightBond 3) and make sure the glue covers every bit of the joint surfaces thoroughly. I've heard other woodworkers say you should wipe the surfaces of all exotic woods with acetone or some other solvent before gluing them, as the oils in the wood will interfere with a good bond. I do it occasionally, but other than that one joint, I've never had a glue joint fail, even for joints that I haven't wiped down. Also, I wiped down a cutting board that had some padauk in it with acetone once. I thought it might work for getting dust off the wood without raising the grain. I will never do it again. It just made a big mess, staining the other wood padauk orange. It took a lot of sanding to fix that mistake. However, I will caveat what I said about wiping down the wood before gluing. When I've used exotics, it has mostly been in cutting boards and other projects where the joint isn't under a lot of stress, so my experience may not apply to your situation.
The oldskhool contact adhesive also has its place especially when you want to attach a different material to wood (especially leather) Good ventilation is essential however!
Thanks James for once again making us smarter makers. I’m glad that you covered polyurethane glue. I wholeheartedly agree with you that it’s not worth the mess compared to Titebond III (for wood), or epoxy (for joining wood & non-wood materials, e.g. embedding rare earth magnets in wood - my most common use).
Polyurethane glue: I use it to add rubber strips to the bottom of skateboard launch ramps. Epoxy in those volumes is more expensive here (Australia) than PU, and PU doesn't need to be mixed so I can apply it straight to the work surface.
@@danielnewby2255 Heya matey, I picked up a meter of "Ideal 1m Black Flat Rubber Surface Matting Sheet" from bunnings. They cut if off a roll. The wedge ramp I made stays put on polished and sealed skatepark concrete. The glue is Sikabond Techgrip 500ml from same place.
CA glue, aka superglue, is also really handy for things like papercuts and the like. Most "liquid bandages" are just a variant of cyanoacrylate that's meant to be a little less harsh on tissues and release less chemicals into the body.
Great for patching up a foot if caught out on a long hike with a raw blister or hot spot. Placed over some thin fabric it makes a great skin patch. Always in the med kit with leukotape.
That Titebond II seems to me to be the best choice for cleaning out the grooves of LP and 45 records since it stays more flexible when you remove it and doesn't break up into pieces like white glue.
A tiny sprinkle of table salt completely prevents parts moving when clamping. This was a tip which changed my gluing life forever! But make sure you put some rice in your salt shaker, or the salt will clump up due to its hygroscopic nature.
@@MagnusMoerkoereJohannesen Sprinkle the salt onto one piece you are about to clamp (after applying the wood glue). When you place the second piece of wood onto the first piece the grains of salt make small debts in each piece of wood and the grains lock the two pieces together so they don’t slide against each other when you apply clamps. It’s a fairly common technique. Hope that helped :)
@@raybritton2923 I hadn't heard of it here in my neck of the woods, but the way you describe it makes perfect sense! Thank you, I'll remember it for the next time I need to glue something together :)
Very useful information on this vid ! By the way I have found one exclusive use for gorilla glue , when I have water damaged wood on the exterior of the house that needs to be repaired but not replaced I will remove what I can of the damaged wood and fill the void with gorilla glue using pieces of wood as filler . The expansion works in my favor as it will fill the voids . When it is cured I cut out the excess leaving room to top it off with a filler that can be sanded and painted . I have repairs that I have kept track of for many years . No idea what else it is good for !lol
Epoxy can also be mixed with fillers to do a lot of things, like thickening with wood dust or silica so you can spread it like peanut butter, or add glass fiber for strength. I mix it with finely ground dark roast coffee to make fret dots on my guitars.
Really nice overview, James. I use hot glue all the time. I've even used to attach a small part I need to turn on the lathe. Not recommended of course but If the surface area is large enough, it holds surprisingly well. Also love hot glue to seal up caulk tubes I won't get to for a while. Even a year later, the contents will still be fresh!
Great tip about the caulk tubes, especially for those of us who aren’t professional plumbers. I use hot glue a lot to protect the sharp edges of tools, either for shipping or for storage.
I use the same glues for the most part, type wise if not brand specifics. I use Titebond 3 near exclusively on the PVA tan glue side as well as a white wood glue, though I don’t recall the brand. I also keep Baking Soda on hand as a CA activator which can up your CA game and allow you to make CA putties and instant wood fillers. I do use the original Gorilla glue near exclusively for one job: fixing broken chairs, it’s strong and fills gaps created when the wood breaks and just seems to hold up better long term; it also gas a better grab than wood glues. I keep a few different epoxies on hand in different viscosities, similar to the CA glues, as well as with different setting times from 5 minutes to 24 hours. I also like epoxies as a top finish, especially on tables as it’s quite durable and with the addition of Xyline can be thinned to be a penetrating finish, though this does extend cure time.
Stumpy, you are a presentation god. How do you manage to deliver video after video with such perfect organization and clarity with few or no video edits? Impressive.
As an occasional woodworker (a.k.a. "very rarely"), I "discovered" that Elmer's makes an adequate wood glue. I was mostly being cheap because I had no need for even the smallest bottle of wood glue, but it works good enough in my particular projects.
I use Gorilla Glue for melamine cabinet assembly. I find its expansion properties set into the particle board well and hold the strongest of any glue I've tried. Of course it requires long clamping. Most people don't seem to understand that Gorilla Glue needs to be under pressure for it to work.
Similar to the Titebond III example I used Liquid Nails Fuze*IT for an entire project because it works down to 0 degrees F and my garage is a chilly place in the winter.
I swear by Gorilla Glue on all exterior work (such as fascia, soffits, and trim etc.) because of the properties you mentioned; It reacts quickly when activated with water, foams out and expands to fill any gaps, hardens up in about an hour and can be scraped off the surface and filled. It takes a little longer to fully cure but then is hard and waterproof. I use Tightbond III on everything else, even interior trim.
I have used Gorilla Glue to repair paper mache siding boards (from the 1970s'), because nothing else will stick to them (caulking peeled off). It works best if it can be clamped with a flat board and a layer of wax paper, which makes it finish smooth. I also used it as a quick and dirty fill for rotted fascia boards behind gutters, to avoid replacing fascia boards (especially in inconspicuous areas). I used a spray bottle filled with water to moisten the surface before applying glue.
The yellow color is just pigment. I can be pretty sure about that because in Germany we have D2, D3 and D4 glues (which tidebond is certified for) which are all white. There is also a B classification which is for PU glues as where D is for PVA.
This is true (Croatia here), but the yellow glues from USA have some kind of grit or fine sand added to them and our D234 are smooth. I think that yellow glue isn't just tinted, just like James stated.
Thanks for this excellent video; I've used virtually every one of the glues you described. But I must say that even though I don't use Gorilla Glue much, I do use it for laminated projects when the wood is wet so it can be bent into complex shapes. The damp wood bends more easily and I know the Gorilla Glue will expand to fill any voids and it won't end up diluted from the dampness. Plus it's pretty strong once it sets up.
Sometimes, when a clamp up is very awkward, I tack in some countersunk screws to hold the piece tight then, after cured, I remove the screws, pour epoxy into the screw hole, then glue in plugs after the fact. Which glue would you suggest for all that =P
In building my wood frame model aircraft I have developed a system of using white PVA in conjunction with CA. I use the PVA as the main glue but do not apply it to the key points that will hold the SHAPE together. At these key points I use CA. I can then carry on building on the piece without waiting for the PVA to dry as the CA has given it enough strength to allow it to be manipulated. When all is fully dry I have a fuselage/wing or whatever that has the toughness of PVA assembly without the time wasted in waiting for it to set after each building stage. Thus I get the strength advantage of PVA with the assembly speed advantage of CA.
There’s a snag with CA glue activator. The main ingredients are aliphatic hydrocarbons with n-Hexane as a major component. Not great to use without a respirator (toxic, central nervous system depressant), and highly flammable. It may seem like a magic spray and a “game-changer”, but I wish it were used more sparingly. CA glue can dry pretty quickly without it - so consider ditching the activator habit for your health and safety. 5-minute epoxy might be a much better choice.
I saw another commenter here mention using baking soda as an activator. I googled it and it seems to be legit. I guess downside is it would be most handy as a water spray solution and then the piece is wet?
Two things: 1) I really appreciate that you do this without six thousand annoying cuts in between your sentences. Good on you for being able to do one long take. 2) With the hide glue (I think thats what you said), if it only lasts a year on the shelf in the bottle, how would it last longer if used in a piece of furniture?
Two more Titebond glues that I find useful are: brown/dark glue if a little filler is needed in dark wood seams, and their thicker, faster-set clear glue.
I've had very poor luck using Gorilla products other than their tape. Very over-rated in my book. Project farm compared gorilla with the others and the strength was real weak. It works best on fabrics.
From the first time I saw my dad use it, I'd wondered how much work all that foam is doing? How much of the compression that foam forces between joints is actually a substitute for normal adhesion and cohesion, and how poor is that substitute?
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Hey stumpy. What's your opinion on Cascamite glue?
Haha I use a baggy of silica gel and wrap it with my cyano-acrylate glue with a rag, that makes it last a lot more time
Keep in mind that kicker causes a weaker CA joint. For most situations it doesn't matter, but something to think about if you need max strength. I love slow-zap thick CA for most jobs. E6000 is good for sticking oddball stuff together with good flex resilience. Poly's good for a lot of stuff because it sticks to damn near anything, fills gaps, and has some flex, but yeah not really a 'wood' glue.
I feel you missed a ‘ biggie ‘
I use a product’ “cascamite”
You mentioned construction glue’s but this product has fallen out of favour….
A resin power you mix with water.
It has a 30 minute cure time and expands to fill gaps so needs clamps.
Very waterproof. Used to glue kitchen worktops and I’ve used it successfully on boats. It’s probably equivalent to tightbond 3 but keep the power dry and use YEARS later .so for longer term storage a useful option. Fallen out of favour probably because it needs mixing. Not straight from a bottle.
Give a small pot of powder a go
The retired old timer swore by it or at it !!!
Hello, this isn't a huge question or anything but I just got into connecting bords using dowels and wood glue, how does the regular gorilla glue compare to the gorilla wood glue? Because, I saw you mention just the regular glue and not the wood glue which I just thought a little odd since I didn't think the regular one was meant for wood at all, but I guess having worked with glue as much as you probably have you know a deal more than I do, thanks.
As usual the Mr Rogers of wood gives the info. One of the reasons I like this guy is because he is succinct. Some people rattle on with info that isn't necessary. My patience taps out long before they finish their soliloquy!
25 years as a furniture restoration professional with my own business and one of the most unique uses for Gorilla Glue I ever came up with was in the restoration of weathered, dry rotted, cracked and almost pull'em apart with your fingers window sills. I am talking of course about the weather side. We purchased an old farm house about 10 years ago and several sills really could have been broken off with your hands. Solution. (best done on a cloudy day) Mist the window sill thoroughly (the gorilla likes it damp as Stumpy Nubs says) Don a pair of heavy duty rubber gloves or a couple of pair of the blue ones, lay on a coat of gorilla brushing (very stiff brush) it into all those huge cracks and crevices or just work it in with your fingers if you like using a squeegee motion across the grain to force it in, you don't have to level it to the top of the crevices, obviously because this stuff is going to foam out of there and all over the entire top as well, as you might expect. Let it do it's thing.
After it sets up nice and hard take your multi tool (vibrator tool) with a flat blade installed and "shave" off the top of the window sill. If the glue has set well you can now go for your orbital sander and sand the whole thing. (Gorilla sands pretty well if you let it set up well) Try not to go too crazy with the sanding because some of the gorilla has penetrated the "punky" wood of the surface wood and it will waterproof the surface for you and give it a new surface as well... but you would like to have it relatively smooth Next step prime it with a decent primer after that dries take a premium caulk apply to the whole top surface smoothing with your freshly gloved hands or use a auto body squeegee....smooth it out as best you can because this is the surface you are going to paint. (misting the caulk might help you out here and working on that cloudly day as well.)
After your caulk dries you are ready to apply your finish paint. Since the glue jumps gaps and grabs without a clamp this procedure holds tight quite nicely. My window sills have held up now for over nine years pushing 10 with no deterioration. I know this seems to be dicey but it doesn't take that long, at all , compared to taking out a whole sill. Hope this helps with someone that has a house over 100 years old as I have. Edit: would like to add that the reason for the caulk coating is that, gorilla when cut and sanded is very porous, bubbly if you will and it looks like foam in the cracks, the caulk fills in those bubbles. PS: Acetone clean up, on the gorilla glue, if you get it on you or surrounding surfaces.....get after it fast, it doesn't take prisoners.
Could this help with wet-rot I wonder? I ask because it's not always as easy at it looks to splice new wood in really accurately.
literal turd polishing; love it! thanks!
Is Gorilla UV resistant?
@@JamesThomas-pj2lx You're welcome!!!
@@evanleebodies I am not a scientist, just a gorilla glue user at times, so take what I say with a grain of salt.... polyurethane glues (not necessarily gorilla glue) are used in the installation of car windshields and installing polycarbonate windows in aluminum hulls of boats/ships, so waterproof, yes. As far as UV damage I would think these bonds would be protected from that with a molding of some sort. UV kinda "works" on everything over time, so I would definitely paint surfaces with a UV blocking coating such as several coats or house paint or sheet metal or something depending upon your application. An example of UV damage to polyurethane foam would be if you have ever used a foam gap filler such as "Great Stuff", this stuff, if left to weather without a coating will turn yellow over time and get dry and flakey, but if painted it lasts just like wood. These gap fillers are like a watered down version of gorilla glue...they have some adhesive qualities also, but not like the actual glue.
No yelling, no overediting, no BS. Straight to the point, clear and useful explanations
This is how any YT presentation should look like
Great job
The clarity of information in your videos is surpassed by none. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us in such an incredibly concise way.
I collect vintage guitars. They almost always require the neck joint to be disassembled and reset after decades of use. The constant asymmetric tension caused by the strings cause the neck geometry to change over time making the guitar difficult to play. Fortunately all these older guitars are constructed with hide glue making the neck joint disassembly easier.
Hide glue is only glue to use for music instruments. Its traditional, reversible and it cures really hard. All other glues stay little bit flexible but hide glue when fully cured is almost crystal. Its joints do not dampen the sounds in instrument.
@@KK-xz4rk I've read that people have had problems with the pre mix hide glue in high humidity areas.
Organ builders generally use hide glue as they know everything will need to be taken apart again in the future. There are a few exceptions who use foam glue (to the dismay of everyone who has to releather or rebuild instruments where foam glue was used).
@@UnderTheFloor79 Music instruments + high humidity is never a good mix. It is not a glue for boatbuilding. It is a glue for violins and guitars and antique furniture.
Its the same in the piano industry. We actually still always stick with hot hide glue.
It's important to stick with the right glue. Topics like these really help woodworkers bond.
😂😂😂
Your dad-ness is showing
Very tacky, if you ask me.
Said with tac and a great connection. You have a union that links us all
I like those tubes of stick glue that are like oversized chapsticks. I just used it to hold down paper templates that I make on the printer. When I'm done, it's easy to peel off and clean up. Just don't count on it for ANY kind of strength.
Im p sure those are still pva just don’t permeate the wood as well since its thicker
I also use the old glue sticks to assemble rocking horses and baby cradles with out fasteners, that way the kid don't get stabbeb when the piece collapses. I'm kidding I'm kidding.
Doubles as a snack in a pinch ;-)
@@melody3741 The original Pritt stick glue, and I'm sure most copies, are not PVA. They are closer to your solid under arm deodorant. Basically a gel.
Bandsawyer's best friend
A much less used adhesive but often my favorite is rubber cement. It’s not always useful, but as a maker, I often find myself attaching two materials that “shouldn’t” be attached together. The rubber cement adds enough flexibility to adjust to different expansion ratios and densities while still maintaining a strong joint.
Also, if you use it wet, you can reposition for a good long time before it sets, and the joint will be easy to break. If you need immediate adherence you can apply the glue to both surfaces, let it dry, and press the two pieces together for an instant, agressive bond. It's harder to pry apart, though -- on paper you're looking at damaging the pieces -- so you have to be aware of that.
I love rubber cement. I just wish it could be applied evenly without the little glue-zits here and there. Maybe I'm using it wrong, though?
I have used gorilla glue to repair a crack by drilling into the end grain and first pouring in yellow glue followed by gg followed by a dowel. The glues foam into the crack and makes a nice repair. I have also used this trick to fix squeaky stair treads by drilling a small hole through the tread. Pouring in the yellow and gg then plugging the hole with a dowel. The glues expand and cure to fill the gap and stabilize the tread. Squeak gone. Gg is another tool in the toolbox and has its place.
Why do you use the PVA glue and not just the GG?
@@jeanchapman1301 I assume the moisture from the yellow glue activates the expand properties of the gg
Yes the moisture from the yellow glue activates the gg, but the foaming gg pushes the yellow glue into otherwise unreachable places. I also believe (untested) that gap filling properties of the gg are made stronger with the added yellow glue foam.
I use GG with green construction lumber for shop and yard projects. Way cheaper than epoxy.
Your last statement is what I consider the key here. It's a Tool that's available. Trying to work without the right tool can be done, but it is always better to have more options. Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
Alright, I’ll listen to this guy talk about glue for eleven minutes.
I find Gorilla Glue quite useful in certain situations, but certainly wouldn't use it for furniture/cabinetry work. For example, putting a picnic table together using Gorilla Glue, it is under the exposed surface, so any slight mess from the stuff is out of sight, but it holds things together much better than just mechanical fasteners and is simply stronger than any other glue I've used. I also used it extensively building a small dock at a pond. But for furniture making that foam would be a NIGHTMARE! I'll stick with Titebond for that work.
One thing I learned to do using white glue (in the days when Titebond and the like were yet unborn) was in a special glue-up for turning on a lathe. This was for turning on a face plate. The wood for the project was glued together, then a scrap board was glued to the bottom BUT with a sheet of bond paper (notebook paper or typing paper) between the scrap piece and the actual project. Then, the face plate was screwed to the scrap once the glue had set.
After turning, a wide wood chisel could be placed on the seam where the scrap was glued on, flat side TOWARD THE GOOD PART. A good whack with a mallet, and the paper split, leaving white fuzz half the original thickness of the paper on each surface. This was easily sanded off the work piece and done. I don't know if this would work with other glues, and I would be afraid to try.
My favorite use of CA glue is with blue painter’s tape. Tape both sides of the joint, glue on one side and accelerator on the other and you have an instant joint for patterns, jigs, etc. that can be easily disassembled and won’t harm the surface like double sided tape can. There’s no residue to clean up, either.
Great idea! I sometimes use CA instead of a clamp, applying in a small area devoid of my yellow glue or polyurethane glue.
You mean use the CA to glue the non-sticky sides of the tape to each other to make double-sided tape, not glue the joint together, right? Or are you masking the sides of the joint to prevent the glue from spreading too far away from the joint?
@@edeaglehouse2221yes - take two pieces of tape and stick them to the surfaces then use CA glue to glue the non-sticky sides of the tape to each other (I also use accelerant to get it to set faster.) Afterwards you can gently pry the pieces apart and you're. left with two pieces of tape glued together with the adhesive side out. The only caveat is not to use too much glue so it oozes out beyond the edges of the tape. I usually use 1 ½" tape to avoid this.
Shop was what got me through HS. I wish I had videos like this growing up. I am so glad that Woodworking will not become a lost art with these videos with a lot of shop programs getting cut. Thanks for the content.
I totally agree. I grew up badly abused. My woodworking teacher saw past me being female to my potential. I was at the top of his class because he built me up when everyone else tore me down. He was an oasis! I'm sure Mr Rhodenizer would have greatly appreciated @StumpyNubs James...thanks for my ongoing lessons...
Plain old Elmer’s Glue-all is probably the most underrated glue out there. It’s cheap, strong, dries clear, cleans easily. I’ve built dozens of stringed instruments with it.
Using PU glue on damp wood has another drawback, depending on how damp the wood, it may shrink when dry, PU is brittle, the joint will fail quicker. I say quicker because every joint I've glued or been around that was glued with PU fails more quickly, yes, every joint. Another white glue you may want to consider is Roo Superbond. Type 2 rated and sets quickly. I typically do use it on glue ups that need a longer open time. They also make a melamine glue, Roo Clear, it works on nearly everything including it's intended purpose. It remains more flexible than any of the others, not advised for lathe glue ups for that reason. Roo makes a yellow glue as well, it's on my list to try. With both Titebond and Roo, my search for non-CA wood glue is over. No, not sponsored by either, just good products for more options.
I might have to get Roo brand stuff now…
I'm a white glue person. It simply tastes better. You failed to convince me.
That's the best joke I've heard all day
Ah a fellow connoisseur
But you have to lick it off the stick before it gets all nuggety. Then, it's icky.
I'd also love to see a video about CA glue uses. My only dislike for CA glue is that no matter how careful I am, I always end up getting some on me.
i work with CA glue daily and there is no secret for that one. the best solution i’ve heard is to buy CA solvent
also adam savage has a good video on his Tested channel about CA
@@willehster I'm glad it's not just me then 😂 I don't use it often but when I do, I spend the next few days trying to make my fingernails stop sticking to my skin
but thats how you spot the true craftsmen of today: tip of one finger dirty with CA glue and some kind of dust -- any kind of dust: wood dust, stone dust, metal dust
My biggest problem with CA is the cost 😕
Hello Jim, I am a long time amature (yeah my spelling is horible :) ) woodworker and have recently found your videos on You Tube. I just wanted to say that, not only have I learned alot from you, but I am very glad to see that you take shop safety as serious as I do.You have given me hours of pleasure watching your Cool Tools and project videos, and your project and shop tips are unsurpassed. Great job!! It is obvious that you are one of the most skilled and talented woodworkers of the modern age, and I just wanted to say thank you for your contribution to our craft.
Thanks!
Great video. I store my CA cement in a heavy zip-lock with a couple of dessicant bags. It lasts years that way.
I'm gonna have to try that. I can't keep my nozzles from plugging up.
Ziploc®
I scavenge those dessicant packs from everything, and have a zip lock bag full of them ready for reuse. Its possible to reactivate them in a warm oven to drive off any moisture they might be holding on to.
When lining a small box I made for my granddaughter, I cut some pieces of cardboard just undersized and then applied craft felt with spray adhesive. The box looked pretty nice for her Barbie jewellery!
This is truly one of the best channels I have ever discovered on UA-cam. Thank you so much for all your videos and the information you share
I never expected to be so happy to learn about glue, thank you.
If anyone doesn't know, CA glue will react with baking soda very quickly to make a very hard substance with decent adhesion.
I've actually used this to create a strong filler to repair or build up something. It is tricky because the reaction is so fast the CA glue won't penetrate very far. But you can work with it.
Years ago CA and baking soda was used to repair dings in airplane propellers.
Try mixing baking soda into water. I'm pretty sure that's all the activator is.
I'm currently "wearing" a CA/sodium-bicarb "pseudo-thumbnail" - Was trying to load a rat trap back around the middle of September or so, and managed to fumble things in such a way that the snap-bar came down right across the cuticle of my right thumb at full force. After some appropriate cussing, the to-be-expected blood-blister in the nail-bed formed up right on schedule, turning almost the entire nail black, and I started the "wait for it to grow out" process. Said process proceeded as expected, eventually resulting in new nail behind the slowly creeping blood blister. And as a bonus, the "leading edge" of the new growth came in pushing a linear "crater" of mostly dried blood and incredibly poor-health nail ahead of it. A crater that, after a couple of days, eroded away to leave a sharp edge that did its best to catch on *ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING* that got anywhere near it. Had a bright idea based on a youtube video - scrub, brush, scrape, dig, and otherwise clean out as much of the "crater" as possible. Dry well. Fill to heaping with baking soda. Touch baking soda with a water-dipped Q-tip (CA wants water to cure - vapor in the air is usually enough) to get some moisture into it, then add one drop superglue. Wait 10 minutes (it set up nearly instantly, but wasn't fully cured for several minutes) then break out a diamond-dust file and shape to something like smooth. It's not perfect, by any stretch of the imagination - the color match is completely nonexistent, for one thing - but at least it's a reasonably smooth, non-snagging "repair" that I don't have to worry about catching on something and ripping the nail off in a spray of blood and screams of agony.
Another wonderfully informative video. Every glue has its use. That said, I use hide glue almost exclusively, being a musical instrument maker. It's more reversible than any other glue, and it holds well enough, given good joints.
Storing your CA glue in a container with a desiccation pouch works great to prevent clogs, too. Also, Gorilla Glue works great on other repairs, such as ceramics, where you can file or sand away the foamy parts for a nice clean joint. And, rubbing alcohol is a very effect release agent for hot melt glues. Just touch the joint with a dab of alcohol, wait a few seconds and the joint will fall apart.
As a plastic scale modeller I often use CA glue. Its major drawback is its brittleness. Thanks, James, for a very informative video!
I find gorilla glue to be useless in the wood shop also but VERY useful in many other places around the house. I once used it to glue a chunk of concrete back in place after a crack filled with water and froze overnight. That was 3 years ago and its still holding nicely.
I have used gorilla glue to combat squash vine borers in the garden. I inject it with a syringe into the hollow squash stems near where I suspect the worm to be. The gorilla glue foams up and down the stem from that point, encapsulating the worm.
Very informative! 100% agree about expanding gorilla glue. I’m not sure what gorilla “clear” glue is made from, but it’s amazing. I glued a broken ceramic lid together and it holds when nothing else would.
"Yellow" PVA glue generally has a phenol/formaldehyde (PF) resin added to it to give it more weather resistance. The PF resin has a deep reddish-brown color and imparts the yellow hue to the normally white PVA glue.
I really appreciate you sharing your accumulated knowledge. You're very professional at explaining things.
The application I remember where PU might be the right choice is bent lamination of slender boards, if they need soaking to bend better in assembly. I’ve never done it myself, and other glue types may of course work well too. But the dual use of the soak for both bending and setting the PU feels like a good match
Nope. I did that once. PU glue is so brittle when dry that my when my laminated curve was impacted lightly a small stress crack started then it grew quickly until the whole piece blew apart. I said many bad words.
My second attempt was with UF glue which has lasted for 15 years and still going. Strong, tough, and won't creep like PVA.
THE best way to bend wood, is to get it wet and hot enough to bend, and then put into a form... BE PRECISE WITH YOUR FORMS!!!
THEN you dry the stuff while it's clamped solid... Once dry and formed, you can even "heat treat" it as applicable... BUT get it dry, and it generally won't put new or different stresses on the joints whether you laminate or use other methods of joining (like length-wise).
Sucks, I know... BUT the "long way round" is generally the better method. Be patient... It pays off.
Finally, yes, a lot of the time you do it, at least in the beginning, there's a frustrating amount of "spring out" when you take the dried wood off the forms... It's generally predictable though, just to different degrees depending on your practices and purposes... SO my answer (arbitrary though it may be) was to make all my forms just a little bit tighter or smaller than I planned for the final fit-up. That way, it compensated for "spring out" and I got a lot closer to exactly what I'd measured for and intended to do.
In any case, if you can wet/cook it and set it to form until as dry as possible, it really doesn't matter what glue you use... AND "heat treating" the so-called old-school way only results in a bit of char-darkening, not even any actual charring, to "fire harden" the wood... Just for clarity... in my dubious experience.
Hope this helps... Bending is a frustrating and tedious business by nature. It takes a LOT of trial and error to get any good at it. It's worth the investment though, if you can possibly get into the stuff. ;o)
All three of you might be interested in reading about plastic resin glue. Not covered in this video but very useful for bent laminations.
@@troyclayton so the carpenter I watched on Swedish telly 15-20 years ago just soaked the boards overnight and smeared the glue using his thumb right out of the bath, water running down the planks. It looked fun and effortless. His glue budget must’ve been large, he all but cast the construction in PU. I made a mental note of it, thinking I’d try it some day. Of course, the garden recliner he was making came together alright, but there’s no knowing if it sproinked out of form five minutes after turning the camera off :) Anyway, after reading these comments I’ll probably use a different glue if I ever get around to trying it out.
In highschool woodshop in the early 90's we were taught using white glue. Not too many years after that I started seeing the promotion and use of yellow wood glue everywhere. White glue always worked well for me but now I understand the purposes for the yellow (without all the sales pitch hype). This clears it all up, thank you!
The clear non-expanding PU glue has some properties that make it very useful for certain applications. It doesn't make the mess of the brown PU glue. PVA glue cures strong but is brittle, but clear PU bonds and remains very flexible and tough.
Of course construction adhesive has good properties for some use cases too...
PU(R) is also used allot for gluing plastics onto wood e.g. ABS Edgebanding against melamine this also creates a watertight seam. but this is mainly used in industrial aplications
That’s a good point about the clear poly glue, however you’re mistaken when it comes to the PVA. It’s not nearly as brittle as people think it is, just peel some off your clamp after a glue up and give it a stretch. It’s not super flexible, but it’s not brittle. Given that and the fact that it’s cheaper and arguably easier to use than PU glue, I just can’t imagine a good use for it in my own shop. Maybe if I worked with plastics.
Purely as an experiment, so with a random piece of scrap and junk that I found in the trash, I fitted together a knife (trash blade) and handle with PU (Gorilla, specifically) glue. It was a bit of a bitch to clamp such that it wouldn't expand and push the damn blade out of the handle cavity... BUT... 20 YEARS later, and the knife still sees regular use, including hammering it through frozen food (like a frozen pound of bacon, or a "log" of hamburger) and regular washing... It's held up admirably for something that didn't cost more than a measure of Gorilla Glue and a blade I found in the trash... and some time... AND obviously, it's not for my lack of abuse to it. I don't give it ANY special care, and in fact, it's the first thing I hand to someone as a loaner or for "rough" work, since it's supposed to be tested and it's not to be fawned over like a favorite... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 I had a rafter tail crack in me. I don't want to rip off the entire roof to repair it. Gorilla glue fixed it, still holding 10 years later.
@@scottslotterbeck3796 Haven't gotten so ambitious as to bet the integrity of my house on the stuff... Hat's off to you, and congrat's (so far... so good?)...
Hope it continues to hold a few decades more. ;o)
In just about 10 minutes I learned everything I ever wanted to know about shop glues! It just can't get better than that! Thank you for doing my work for me!
PUR Hotmelt glue is also widely used for gluing ABS edge band onto boards, this also creates a watertight seam between the edgeband and the panel
Great video on glues. Boat building and restoration I have used a lot of epoxies and Gorilla poly glue. Polyurethane glue has its uses. When it first came out, the hardwood candy store also had a bunch of green ash shorts on sale; cheap serendipity. I glued up a kitchen cutting board. A great test for waterproof glue and bonding because the ash was wet to begin with and the kitchen cutting board was alternately soaking wet then dried. I deliberately did not oil the board. Lasted for years. Finally one joint split. Too little glue on that joint, I think. I separated the split joint, quick pass over the jointer, more poly glue, then back into service the next day. One boats I used it to join fiddly bits of non-structural trim that would be painted. Worked very well, without the two part mess and expense of epoxy. Recently the best use was to glue back together splits in Redwood T&G 1x8. Very gently prying open the split, with a toothpick, and spread in the poly glue with an old toothbrush. Clamp with 2" clear box tape. The foaming expansion here is a big plus as the glue will push itself into areas of the split the toothbrush could not reach. And fill in some of the inevitable gaps left by splinters that fell out. Redwood T&G, once commonly used in Hawaii, is now either very expensive or unobtainable. Rescuing these boards is quite worthwhile. Poly isn't for every project, but for some, it is an excellent choice.
Polyurethane glue is great for squeaky floorboards. Sika Tech Grip is my choice. As for CA, i use powerflex and loctite 480 a lot in my workshop. Regular super glue is too brittle in some applications. However it is a great finish and finish repair.
I build wooden boats (among other projects) and recognise all the glues you have there, use most of them. But for boat building epoxy is king and a marine quality PU is queen (I use Collano Semparoc.) They aren't interchangeable, as you say the PU needs a tight fitting joint, epoxy is better at gap filling. Main advantages of PU is a. it doesn't need mixing (with potential wastage if you mix too much) and b. cleanup is easier and safer. Sanding epoxy generates toxic dust to which some people develop serious allergies. I also have a can of spray mount in the workshop for positioning paper patterns and a can of contact adhesive for sticking sandpaper to sticks and dowels to make custom shaped sanding tools.
I learned a lot from this video, but the main thing I learned was how wildly ignorant of the world of glue I really was. I have used nothing but Titebond 3 for all of my woodworking and will definitely be changing that. Thanks for the video!
The thing is, there's almost no setting where Titebond 3 isn't going to work -- so, at least if you're only using one you're using the one that is the most water resistant and creates the strongest bond. In that way, you're not using the wrong glue, just making your life a bit more expensive and difficult than necessary
I use Titebond II for all of my woodworking. Never had a problem with open time.
@@himynameisdavenicetomeetyou That's the way I look at it as well. You basically can't go wrong with TB3.
Same with me. Guess I'll get a bottle of the other Titebond. :-)
@@himynameisdavenicetomeetyou Norm Abrams loved hide glue. I was surprised it's still available.
The advantages of gorilla glue is that it fills irregular gaps and it can set rock hard and it bonds wood to practically anything, tiles, concrete etc. it can be messy though and it sticks on your hands for ages. It’s definitely got a place for general, multi uses and applications.
I had a leak in my (inner) washer hose and the appliance guy wanted $300 to come replace it. I put a dab of gorilla glue in the pinhole and Viola! No more leak! :D
I'll give another example for when gorilla glue is great in woodworking where the others struggle to keep up. If you are gluing two pieces together and you are looking for ultimate sheer strength, drill a bunch of holes into each surface before you join them with gorilla glue. The poly will expand into all of those holes and lock the two pieces together. The more holes you drill (up to a point) the better the sheer strength will be.
Gorilla glue DOES NOT fill gaps with any strength, the pieces have to mate perfectly for strength
@@wil1685yup, lots of trapped bubbles that form if the gap is too large and it just expands in place, has no real strength in areas where that happens.
Another very useful video. I’ll use one suggestion immediately: storing CA glue in the shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular nuisance.
Thanks!
In the freezer or refrigerator? I get really mad when I buy a bottle of CA glue and use it once go back to use it again month's later it's almost dryed up thick I have to pull it out with tooth pick
@@snoopu2601 Probably either, as both tend to be low-humidity environments, but the relative humidity of the freezer will always be lower.
@@FortyHurts thank you, I put the CA glue in the freezer. I was wondering how to make the glue last longer. Every time I was buying it was always drying up on me seem like I was wasting it more than using it. Thanks again 40 Hurts 👍🏽
As someone who is clueless about woodworking your videos are excellent quality but they make as much sense to my uneducated mind as the Rockwell Retro Encabulator. You could completely make up anything and it would sound authoritative. Maybe some day I will better understand mechanics and woodworking. Thank you for not having annoying background music. Great videos!
White glue for paper
Yellow glue for wood
Gorilla glue for hair
Did they shave her head or still there? Maybe someone could do a strength test
😂
I forgot about her 😆🤣😂
Any glue for intercourse?
For gorillas
Thank You Excellent information as usual
In my experience over the long term (several years) epoxy tends to move if under constant stress.
Where I’ve found polyurethane glue useful is with pressure treated wood.
I would have a field day in your shop!!! I mean I wouldn't produce anything more than shavings at this point but I'd still enjoy getting to know all the tools you have and the history of them. Keep up the great work!! Much love and respect🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾
Gorilla glue is amazing. I used it to attach wood to my kitchen counter sink cut out. I needed to make the hole smaller to support a smaller but very heavy sink.
It expands a LOT which allows it to fill extreme gaps. So it's excellent for gluing things to very rough and jagged surfaces like concrete.
The expanded glue is not a problem. Just put masking tape along the surfaces that the glue is going to spill out on. Scrape away the excess with a razor then remove the tape.
Very informative video, one glue i learned of back in shop class and I still use it today, it's a plastic resin powder glue made by Dap and its called wieldwood, I introduced this glue to our arsenal at a start up furniture company and would use it for repair work on old pieces and glue up multi layer boards and if aloud to set up over night will produce a stronger than wood joint. I turn alot of wooden Bowls and such and use it on those glue up too.
Another Great Video. The take home lesson that I will start using today is storing CA glue in my shop freezer. That will immediately eliminate a regular pain in the neck.
THANKS!
I've had bad experiences with polyurethane glue, even to the extent of outdoor pieces simply falling apart after a few months. I've known guitar neck joints glued with polyurethane that could be easily pried apart-hand pressure only. I can't think of any application I would use it for. (The "gap filling" foam has no structural strength to speak of.)
I don't use cyanoacryliates on any joint that receives stress, as it has very poor shear strength.
I've tried a few brands of construction adhesive, but they've all failed after a few weeks or months. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
I don't buy pre-mixed hide glue. The shelf life of the crystals is practically forever, and mixing it up isn't that much of a hassle.
YMMV
I have had good results with Gorilla Glue. I have even left pieces out in the rain as a test. They do have to be joined well and allowed to cure properly.
We use construction adhesive all the time (in addition to mechanical fasteners) to enhance the rigidity of framing members. Like behind tiled walls, underneath staircases, sistered joists in squeaky floors.
I use Gorilla Glue in chain saw carving because the logs have moisture in them. When I glue on a Bears arm or something the foaming doesn’t matter since I will be carving all the foam and extra wood off. I use 12” screws to clamp the pieces together for an hour while the GG sets. Remove the screws and replace them with GG on dowels for a permanent addition to the log or Bear. Thanks for another excellent presentation!
A great glue overview, thank you.
What are your thoughts on alternatives; double sided tape, spray impact adhesive, blue painters tape, etc. How to peel or remove residue, clean-up etc.
I clean Scotch tape residues off wall paint with starting fluid for diesel engines. (Works fast ,Dries fast)Rotate your rag .Try to find the ones without cylinder lubricants.
I've used polyurethane glue for outdoor projects (tables, mostly) made from construction lumber (usually 2x12 SYP boards where I cut around the worst knots). Even if I let it sit for a while, the wood still has more moisture than I'd like which is a good fit for PU glue, and I don't have to worry about rough tenons as you point out. I use a carbide scraper to get the foam-out after the glue sets, then a good sanding to make sure the wood will take paint or deck stain.
What about combining different glues in the same task? I’ve seen a number of other users apply two different types during the glue up process, such as yellow glue for strength and CA glue for quick adhesion that eliminates the need for clamps.
I sometimes use hot glue to tack parts while waiting for epoxy to set, it's very useful stuff.
James, Thank you! I Learned a thing or two here and I appreciate your approach as always.
-CY
*Consider adding thread locker “glues” to this fluidly fascinating facilitation of flowable functions. Loctite made its name on the red goo your cousin drowns his wheel studs in so the swamper tires don’t rattle the lugs loose, but there’s blue for removable fasteners, green, and they have sticks of the stuff now so you don’t squash the tube in your back pocket after a long day of wrenching!
Just my opinion, but I definitely feel threadlockers are awesome addictives that adhere to the aforementioned advisory about adhesives. Alliteration aside, always ask an expert about adverse actions after you adhere your fingers together.
Thank you as always,
-CY
@@BTW... I am trying to connect my original career/interest in mechanics with woodwork: thread lockers and phenomenal for handling vibration related issues such as those found on every woodworking power tool I’ve ever used. Building your new table saw or resetting an old one? The creeping loctite is great for keeping trunnion settings at 90 while still allowing you to remove the nuts later without being Hercules. Mounting motors, guide bearings for bandsaw, and for setting studs in inserts on jigs. I see a lot of crossover uses because I have too much experience repairing issues caused by loose fasteners.
Maybe I swayed your opinion, maybe not. I appreciate your anemia remark, and I agree there’s a plethora of better options like locknuts, nordlok washers, jam nut, and the list goes on, but I would rather tighten a fastener on my equipment once and build something with my time than run around to buy the Best option for retaining a belt guard on my bandsaw. Rattles bother me, maybe you’re okay with tightening thumb screws every time you fire up your equipment, but I am not.
Cheers.
-CY
Have to say that I share all of your opinions and experience with all of these glue types with the exception of polyurethane. I dismissed it for a long time until I saw a UA-camr use it on several projects. The first place I saw him use it was on a tight box joint. Personally box joint and dovetail glue ups make me more apprehensive than most others. With the polyurethane you get a glue that has a longer open time, acts as a filler, acts as a lubricant during assembly of tight joints and is really easier to clean up. Yes you have to use mineral spirits but even after it dries it's easier to clean up any squeeze out with a chisel or knife than PVA glue. No it's not a miracle glue to replace all others but it does have a place, at least in my shop. Don't be too quick to dismiss the Gorilla! ;)
I have a butcher knife I assembled "experimentally" with Gorilla Glue, and it's lasted 20 YEARS with regular beatings through frozen 10 lb "logs" of hamburger, bones, and is my go-to for loaning out to hunters who just want something quick and cheap to use for a field dressing implement, because if they break it or lose it, I'm not out anything precious... I found the blade in the garbage, and just gobbed the thing together back when Gorilla Glue was a relatively new product... Damn nearly as good as epoxy for some fit-ups! ;o)
I've always had the impression that it is a particularly strong adhesive, and it seems to stick pretty much anything to anything. I do take James's point about it foaming out of the joint and making a mess though. It also has a limited shelf life in that it forms a skin even with a well sealed container, so I buy it in smaller sizes nowadays.
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 It's funny when you mentioned '20 years' it reminded me of my Gorilla Glue experience. The front door to my apartment-conversion condo had a rough life before I bought the place. The hinges were really loosely mounted to the door and I had them addressed during my walk-through at closing. Sadly yet unsurprisingly they 'addressed' it by using larger screws. Thing is, it's a steel fire door with an internal wooden frame, and the screw holes in the frame are just sawdust as repairs had been attempted in the past over the years.
Anyway, the door started becoming difficult to close again and it was the hinges at fault. Frustrated, while I came up with a long-term plan I decided to put some Gorilla Glue under the hinge plates, then shim the door level and plumb when closed while the glue cured. If you can believe it, that same glue is holding just fine after 18 years and you can close/latch it with one finger. I really want to fix it 'the right way' but hey it's working fine right now and for the foreseeable future. Further attempts at repair may screw it up!
@@TrevorDennis100 Yeah, the container size really matters... Trying to budget out the stuff so you don't keep a single container long enough for a significant loss when it turns into a brick in the bottle can be frustrating as hell...
As to the mess... Meh... It only takes a few sessions of "trial and error" to get pretty skilled at joinery and seriously limiting the "foam-out" from expansion. The foam (if left undisturbed until cured) also doesn't run or drip like other glues. AND it's relatively soft enough that the exposed stuff can be trimmed right off with a decent, sharp knife. A little sanding with fine paper after that, and it's easily as useful as most anything else...
Mostly, due to the cost, I reserve the stuff for situations where I am mixing wood and other materials, whether metal or plastic or even rubber and "strange joinery"... especially where it'll get abused and wet often.
Most of the regular joinery is just cheaper and easier to do with almost everything else as James prescribed. ;o)
@@jaymzx0 Yep, among my earliest rules in any craft skills is "Never repair something that ain't broke."...
As to hinges and doors... I had plenty of adventures (read "total clusterf***'s") getting doors repaired and mounted properly when I'd inherit a faulty situation... The shear weight of a door on the joints of hinges and whatever screws or other fastening hardware and wood are involved in the frame can (and will) tend to droop over time and cause more headaches than there are aspirin in the hemisphere..
...it's even worse when humidity is a yo-yo...
Instead of sawdust repairs, however, I've found that an improvised glue-pot and regular tooth picks or bamboo skewers are among the most effective for the longest time (unless you just gob the thing full of gorilla glue and jam the screws in place to resist "foaming out".
The glue pot's useful to coat each toothpick or skewer with glue, and you can use a brush (or finger) to smooth out the layer... Then jam the pick or skewer into the hole as deeply as you can, adding more and more until the hole is basically filled in...
Once cured in place, you can flush-cut them off, either with a small saw, or a hack-saw blade, or even a japanese saw with fine teeth... OR in the case of toothpicks, a good sharp chisel... and a follow up with sand paper.
Then you can return to screws... either with the originals, or if you're updating, the latest roughly equivalent screw to those you'd extracted.
Titebond products are easily durable and strong enough for pilot-holes where necessary, too. I generally reserve the Titebond III for exterior doors, since you've got to contend with weather, snow included, and hot and cold... humidity... etc...
LOVE the tooth-pick and skewer "filler" trick ever since I learned it. It works damn fine for restoring antiques, too, since the heads of the screws will tend to cover the oddity of inserting wooden bits into worn holes for the threads to bit, and unlike sawdust, they have "long grain" for the glue to "bite" for a solid hold...
IN any case, I'm not sure "fixed properly" involves toothpicks, bamboo skewers, or anything other than removing old wood and rebuilding... BUT I'll take the picks and skewers most times... in case you hadn't heard of the method. ;o)
I have passed over this video numerous times but decided to watch and am so glad I did. I've started using glue in my builds more and in addition to your explaining Gorilla glue you answered questions ajd filled in my lack of knowledge using yellow ( Titebond ) glue.
Thank you for this help.
I stopped using Gorilla Glue when I learned it wasn't made from real Gorillas.
It does work well when you need to glue gorillas together.
What?!?! You mean I've been protesting for nothing?!?!
It IS made from actual gorillas. They just claim it isn’t to keep Jane Goodall off their back.
My Gorillas love using it for their woodworking projects!
It is actually made by gorillas
Thanks so much for saving us from buying the wrong glue for a certain situation. I once used epoxy to replace part of a bent windsor chair bowback, which was oak and I was amazed to find that it didn't hold worth beans but when I tried yellow glue , it worked well. So much for my thinking that epoxy could glue anything! Thanks for sharing.
It's about the chemistry...surfboard foam IS polyurethane , so gorilla glue rules. Using titebond will ruin your whole day in my world.
The more I watch “StumpyNubs” the more I like and trust his content.
More and more, I find these videos invaluable. Great explanation, keeps it simple, great camera angles…just all around good quality videos
Keep it up. You are helping me a lot, and I’ll keep coming back to you
Good stuff. Back in high school wood shop, we used this powdered glue that we mixed with water. The stuff was tenacious. I think it was made by Weldwood, but that was 40+ years ago, so my memory is a bit sketchy on it. I do remember that when dry, the wood would break before the joint did.
Interesting twist on the Gorilla Glue. I saw a guy use Gorilla Glue as a rub-in poly finish. I tried it on a small project and it was legit.
Yup. Weldwood Plastic Resin glue in powder form was used in my high school wood shop. Hopefully the product now made by Dap is the same. I still have my walnut & maple chessboard I made in shop class. Never knew it was a ureaformaldehyde glue until I googled it. I clearly did not read labels in my youth.
I used that stuff at college in 2003 to 2005. We used it for veneer glueing to a MDF or particle board core. We had a heated press that cured the glue in like 40 seconds or something quick like that.
I seem to watch this video every year and it quickly refreshes the info that faded in my head
Great voice video, really helpful to here genuine unbiased facts. I will say I use gorilla glue on job site jobs not wood working builds in a shop. Gorilla glue works great when using wood plugs on projects were you don’t have smooth fitting pieces, fills the gaps a cracks and when dry (only when dry) scrapes off easily.
Again great job, can’t wait for the next one
Alex
Voice video? I hate auto correct
Great video.
I've been also using "Titebond Quick&Thick Multi Purpose Glue". It's a white glue, dries clear and can be painted. Terrific glue for repairing broken things around the house such as ceramics or toys, etc.
This is a good summary and matches my hard-won experiences. The highly hyped Gorilla glue polyurethane is something I tried out in the late 90s when it was being advertised heavily ... what a mess to work with! A somewhat hard to find glue I really like is the slow set version o traditional PVA white glue often stocked by Garrett Wade. It is a good quality conventional PVA. I find great for complicated glue ups because it gives me time to work without the hassles of slow set epoxy. Theoretically it is also reversible with enough water and time, so I use it in situations where you are suggesting hide glue. Many moons ago I used traditional hide glue when helping my great uncle with his violin repair work. He would have a fit if someone assembled a fine violin with Titebond. Hide glue's easy reversibility is a must for instruments which may need to be opened up for repairs.
Tightbond 1 is used by many top rated luthiers. It is perfectly able to soften with heat or moisture, just like hide, hoof, and fish glues. Tightbond 2 and 3 are absolute NO NO for luthier work.
Firstly from this Kiwi, hobby wood worker. Thanks so much for all the wonderful and informative vieos you have posted over the years. I have learnt heaps from them. Re Glues. I use polyurathane glue for outdoor constructions. Landscaping, decks etc, I find it does a good job . I use it with a glue gun for these jobs. I'm a hobby luthier. traditionally heated animal and hyde glue was used for instruments for several reasons. Quality Instruments are almost certainly going to be disassembled over their life time. Hence what you said about chairs. Secondly in its hot state. It sets very quickly. This enables the luthier to place and secure a small part very quickly. just like with super glue. Thirdly in days gone by. there weren't necessarily a lot of other options. I began using the origional white PVA glue. In some places. Stringed musical instruments are under considerable tension. I discovered that under these conditions. White glue tended to creep. I have found the yellow glue doesn't. Its possible to release the yellow glues I use with moisture and heat which equals steam. You can also use white vinegar to release a variety of plastic based glues, including yellow glue. I occasionally use Epoxy resin. Especially for instance, for for setting carbon fibre flats into guitar necks for reinforcement. Epoxy is really the only glue that will adhere to thermo setting composites. I use super glue for fitting binding to the body of an acoustic instrument. it largely elminates the need for complex clamping systems. lastly, I also often use super glue to fill dents and wood gap imperfection that are to be laquered . I hope ive added to the debate. Once agin thankyou so much for what you do.
Poly glue works good in construction where foaming doesn't matter, and damp wood is common.
Yes, and bonds with concrete well, brick, tile, mortar. Got a place floor leveller won't work. Use white or yellow glue depending on your time, as a bonding filler.
Perfect clarity and no ambiguities in you instrucrtions...this is a perfect video!
Have you tried using Weldbond? It's a PVA glue and seems to hold as well as Tightbond, but dries clear. I've had really good results when gluing pieces that have been pre-finished or pre-painted prior to assembly.
I'm a big fan fo Weldbond, and actually came to the comments to say that it doesn't fit with any of James' descriptions of "white glue" -- in tests from Matthias Wandel a few years ago, it came out stronger than TB2, and is definitely more flexible. It also sets up in about 20 minutes vs an hour for TB2. Just be careful getting too much on joints you plan to hit with a flush trim bit -- it melts and re-solidifies more like hide glue, and will really gum the bearing on a flush trim bit.
Not tried Weldbond. Maybe I should....
Used Weldbond to build a small sailboat Worked excellently. See Bolgers instant boats, Titebond and PL Premium along with West system epoxy are favorites too in the small boat community.
This is a good glue use overview and I agree with most of what you stated here! One area where I disagree is that I would not write off poly glue/ gorilla glue for woodworking. I agree with your analogy regarding the negative aspects of this glue but it has some distinct positive attributes. The most significant attribute is that it adds no moisture to your material when gluing up things like face frames and panel doors that will be spray painted/smooth finish as opposed to a natural or stained finish. PVA glues impart moisture to the glue ups and swell the joined areas slightly and if you don’t leave them to fully dry out before sanding and finish painting there will depression telegraphed around the joint that you’ll see after it’s painted and the material finally dries out around the joint. Poly glues add no moisture to the joined area of the glue up, hence no swelling which allows you finish sand and paint much sooner as opposed to if you used PVA, plus poly glue has some gap filling ability that works well with painted finishes. Poly glue is also a better glue for this application than epoxy because of the hastened working/ curing time increasing production efficiency.
I remember Norm would use Poly glue when he would make projects from Teak. He said the wood had natural oils that made using standard glue less effective and could fail more easily. He would wipe the teak with alcohol then wet it before applying the poly. What are your thoughts on that James? Do you have much experience with Teak? Thanks for the great explanation video 😀
I haven't used teak, but I have had a glue joint fail in an edge-grain cutting board between two strips of padauk. It only happened once, but now whenever I glue padauk to padauk, I make sure to use a lot of glue (I usually use TightBond 3) and make sure the glue covers every bit of the joint surfaces thoroughly. I've heard other woodworkers say you should wipe the surfaces of all exotic woods with acetone or some other solvent before gluing them, as the oils in the wood will interfere with a good bond. I do it occasionally, but other than that one joint, I've never had a glue joint fail, even for joints that I haven't wiped down. Also, I wiped down a cutting board that had some padauk in it with acetone once. I thought it might work for getting dust off the wood without raising the grain. I will never do it again. It just made a big mess, staining the other wood padauk orange. It took a lot of sanding to fix that mistake. However, I will caveat what I said about wiping down the wood before gluing. When I've used exotics, it has mostly been in cutting boards and other projects where the joint isn't under a lot of stress, so my experience may not apply to your situation.
Interesting. Haven't watched Norm in years now. He's great!
I’ve tried Titebond 3, epoxy, and polyurethane on the same piece made of ipe (also an oily wood) for outdoors. Poly has had the best results.
@@stillawake76 thanks brenden. That’s good to know. appreciate your comment 👍🏼
I worked for an industrial-level woodworking shop, making windows and doors, for 17 years. We used white PVA glue. It really is good stuff.
I made my coffee table from oak and white glue, no dowrls, biscuits, nothing. 40 years later, still perfoms perfectly.
The oldskhool contact adhesive also has its place especially when you want to attach a different material to wood (especially leather)
Good ventilation is essential however!
Thanks James for once again making us smarter makers. I’m glad that you covered polyurethane glue. I wholeheartedly agree with you that it’s not worth the mess compared to Titebond III (for wood), or epoxy (for joining wood & non-wood materials, e.g. embedding rare earth magnets in wood - my most common use).
Polyurethane glue: I use it to add rubber strips to the bottom of skateboard launch ramps. Epoxy in those volumes is more expensive here (Australia) than PU, and PU doesn't need to be mixed so I can apply it straight to the work surface.
What kind of rubber and where do you get it?
@@danielnewby2255 Heya matey, I picked up a meter of "Ideal 1m Black Flat Rubber Surface Matting Sheet" from bunnings. They cut if off a roll. The wedge ramp I made stays put on polished and sealed skatepark concrete. The glue is Sikabond Techgrip 500ml from same place.
@@bakedbeings Thanks
Thank you for this. Your explanation is easy to understand and well delivered, unlike so many on You Tube.
CA glue, aka superglue, is also really handy for things like papercuts and the like. Most "liquid bandages" are just a variant of cyanoacrylate that's meant to be a little less harsh on tissues and release less chemicals into the body.
Great for patching up a foot if caught out on a long hike with a raw blister or hot spot. Placed over some thin fabric it makes a great skin patch. Always in the med kit with leukotape.
Medical grade CA origins: 1960's-70's Ophthalmology (eye surgery) being able to gluing the lens of your eyeball back together.... Amazing
That Titebond II seems to me to be the best choice for cleaning out the grooves of LP and 45 records since it stays more flexible when you remove it and doesn't break up into pieces like white glue.
A tiny sprinkle of table salt completely prevents parts moving when clamping.
This was a tip which changed my gluing life forever! But make sure you put some rice in your salt shaker, or the salt will clump up due to its hygroscopic nature.
I've never heard of that! :O Can you elaborate?
@@MagnusMoerkoereJohannesen
Sprinkle the salt onto one piece you are about to clamp (after applying the wood glue).
When you place the second piece of wood onto the first piece the grains of salt make small debts in each piece of wood and the grains lock the two pieces together so they don’t slide against each other when you apply clamps.
It’s a fairly common technique.
Hope that helped :)
@@raybritton2923 I hadn't heard of it here in my neck of the woods, but the way you describe it makes perfect sense! Thank you, I'll remember it for the next time I need to glue something together :)
Very useful information on this vid ! By the way I have found one exclusive use for gorilla glue , when I have water damaged wood on the exterior of the house that needs to be repaired but not replaced I will remove what I can of the damaged wood and fill the void with gorilla glue using pieces of wood as filler . The expansion works in my favor as it will fill the voids . When it is cured I cut out the excess leaving room to top it off with a filler that can be sanded and painted . I have repairs that I have kept track of for many years . No idea what else it is good for !lol
Thanks for try another outstanding, unbiased, and fact-laden video, James!
Epoxy can also be mixed with fillers to do a lot of things, like thickening with wood dust or silica so you can spread it like peanut butter, or add glass fiber for strength. I mix it with finely ground dark roast coffee to make fret dots on my guitars.
Really nice overview, James. I use hot glue all the time. I've even used to attach a small part I need to turn on the lathe. Not recommended of course but If the surface area is large enough, it holds surprisingly well. Also love hot glue to seal up caulk tubes I won't get to for a while. Even a year later, the contents will still be fresh!
I hot glue my caulk tubes as well to make them last longer!
Great tip about the caulk tubes, especially for those of us who aren’t professional plumbers. I use hot glue a lot to protect the sharp edges of tools, either for shipping or for storage.
@@lyster1ne681 oh I like that idea to protect sharp edges.
I use the same glues for the most part, type wise if not brand specifics. I use Titebond 3 near exclusively on the PVA tan glue side as well as a white wood glue, though I don’t recall the brand. I also keep Baking Soda on hand as a CA activator which can up your CA game and allow you to make CA putties and instant wood fillers. I do use the original Gorilla glue near exclusively for one job: fixing broken chairs, it’s strong and fills gaps created when the wood breaks and just seems to hold up better long term; it also gas a better grab than wood glues. I keep a few different epoxies on hand in different viscosities, similar to the CA glues, as well as with different setting times from 5 minutes to 24 hours. I also like epoxies as a top finish, especially on tables as it’s quite durable and with the addition of Xyline can be thinned to be a penetrating finish, though this does extend cure time.
Stumpy, you are a presentation god. How do you manage to deliver video after video with such perfect organization and clarity with few or no video edits? Impressive.
As an occasional woodworker (a.k.a. "very rarely"), I "discovered" that Elmer's makes an adequate wood glue. I was mostly being cheap because I had no need for even the smallest bottle of wood glue, but it works good enough in my particular projects.
I use Gorilla Glue for melamine cabinet assembly. I find its expansion properties set into the particle board well and hold the strongest of any glue I've tried. Of course it requires long clamping. Most people don't seem to understand that Gorilla Glue needs to be under pressure for it to work.
Seriously, how do you not have 5M+ subscribers? This is the most consistently useful channel on UA-cam for a homeowner or DIY'er.
Similar to the Titebond III example I used Liquid Nails Fuze*IT for an entire project because it works down to 0 degrees F and my garage is a chilly place in the winter.
I swear by Gorilla Glue on all exterior work (such as fascia, soffits, and trim etc.) because of the properties you mentioned; It reacts quickly when activated with water, foams out and expands to fill any gaps, hardens up in about an hour and can be scraped off the surface and filled. It takes a little longer to fully cure but then is hard and waterproof. I use Tightbond III on everything else, even interior trim.
I have used Gorilla Glue to repair paper mache siding boards (from the 1970s'), because nothing else will stick to them (caulking peeled off). It works best if it can be clamped with a flat board and a layer of wax paper, which makes it finish smooth.
I also used it as a quick and dirty fill for rotted fascia boards behind gutters, to avoid replacing fascia boards (especially in inconspicuous areas).
I used a spray bottle filled with water to moisten the surface before applying glue.
The yellow color is just pigment. I can be pretty sure about that because in Germany we have D2, D3 and D4 glues (which tidebond is certified for) which are all white.
There is also a B classification which is for PU glues as where D is for PVA.
This is true (Croatia here), but the yellow glues from USA have some kind of grit or fine sand added to them and our D234 are smooth. I think that yellow glue isn't just tinted, just like James stated.
Thanks for this excellent video; I've used virtually every one of the glues you described. But I must say that even though I don't use Gorilla Glue much, I do use it for laminated projects when the wood is wet so it can be bent into complex shapes. The damp wood bends more easily and I know the Gorilla Glue will expand to fill any voids and it won't end up diluted from the dampness. Plus it's pretty strong once it sets up.
Sometimes, when a clamp up is very awkward, I tack in some countersunk screws to hold the piece tight then, after cured, I remove the screws, pour epoxy into the screw hole, then glue in plugs after the fact. Which glue would you suggest for all that =P
In building my wood frame model aircraft I have developed a system of using white PVA in conjunction with CA.
I use the PVA as the main glue but do not apply it to the key points that will hold the SHAPE together. At these key points I use CA. I can then carry on building on the piece without waiting for the PVA to dry as the CA has given it enough strength to allow it to be manipulated. When all is fully dry I have a fuselage/wing or whatever that has the toughness of PVA assembly without the time wasted in waiting for it to set after each building stage.
Thus I get the strength advantage of PVA with the assembly speed advantage of CA.
There’s a snag with CA glue activator. The main ingredients are aliphatic hydrocarbons with n-Hexane as a major component. Not great to use without a respirator (toxic, central nervous system depressant), and highly flammable. It may seem like a magic spray and a “game-changer”, but I wish it were used more sparingly. CA glue can dry pretty quickly without it - so consider ditching the activator habit for your health and safety. 5-minute epoxy might be a much better choice.
I saw another commenter here mention using baking soda as an activator. I googled it and it seems to be legit. I guess downside is it would be most handy as a water spray solution and then the piece is wet?
there is another activator that has pump sprayer and smells good Bob Smith Industries BSI-151H Insta-Set Super Glue Accelerator,Clear
...you can also just use rubbing alcohol for activator.
Two things:
1) I really appreciate that you do this without six thousand annoying cuts in between your sentences. Good on you for being able to do one long take.
2) With the hide glue (I think thats what you said), if it only lasts a year on the shelf in the bottle, how would it last longer if used in a piece of furniture?
Hide glue has lasted for centuries on furniture.
Two more Titebond glues that I find useful are: brown/dark glue if a little filler is needed in dark wood seams, and their thicker, faster-set clear glue.
You have the most useful videos for woodworkers on UA-cam!
I've had very poor luck using Gorilla products other than their tape. Very over-rated in my book. Project farm compared gorilla with the others and the strength was real weak. It works best on fabrics.
From the first time I saw my dad use it, I'd wondered how much work all that foam is doing? How much of the compression that foam forces between joints is actually a substitute for normal adhesion and cohesion, and how poor is that substitute?