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Straight up I just don't care for wireless I mean it serves a purpose like if I just can't get a cord long enough but if I can get a cord long enough I just use the corded I don't even bother with wireless much anymore
@@rebeccachambers4701 Oh I don’t know about that one at all. I love cordless compared to my early stuff of the 80s and 90s. Still I don’t use it for HD things and items I use very infrequently…..like this tool here. On the other hand if you’re a farmer or mechanic who works in the boonies ect. they are essential . Both types have their places and better usages.
I never even thought of putting the blade on sideways for tough to reach areas. I feel like such an idiot for not thinking of that. Ha. I already learned like 3 things and I'm only 3:24 into this video. Thank you Stumpy Nubs. (BTW, I have a stumpy nub on my left hand. 5 years ago I was cutting a 2" piece of hardwood concave 3/4' round shoe base trim at a left 45 degree miter angle and had removed the guard on my miter saw. Needless to say, that was a bad idea. The saw blade hit the wood and pulled it into the blade with my finger still holding the wood. It didn't cut off my left index finger but it shredded it real good. Shredded the bone too and chunked out muscle, tendons, and skin. Got rushed to the E.R. and ended up having the last quarter of my finger amputated, right at the first knuckle. Always keep your guard on your miter saw and back up small pieces of wood with a longer backing piece and keep fingers clear.) God bless.
As an old instructional video producer I especially appreciate your use of the television medium: straight shots with minimum and only appropriate movement, few or no special effects, serious discussion of your subject, closeups with movement only when absolutely necessary to show your subject, and well prepared delivery. Great work and keep it up.
I was just looking at a $1500 laser level that has automatic target lock on capability that's made by Leica and they're a company a lot of engineers buy their tools from. Instead of demonstrating the unique capability of the laser level on the commercial, they have 2 male engineers staring at the rear end of this female engineer who has the ML180. I thought surely there has to be a demonstration and I even asked Leica themselves and they said no. So for their top of the line laser level model, all I know is that womans rear end. I would have fired every person who worked on that commercial. It's hard to fathom how stupid things have become.
You don't like jump cuts, background music, sound effects, visual effects, zooming in-and-out constantly, focusing on the face of the person instead of the product? Weird.
As a Registered Nurse, I've used oscillating saws for almost 40 years in cast removal. They are safe because they would not readily cut skin when they penetrated the cast during removal. They are also used extensively in orthopedic and neurosurgery to cut bone. I never thought about the patent issues that kept this tool from crossing over to the woodworker and building trades. I just used a masonry blade for the first time a couple of weeks ago to cut slots in mortar joints to mount decorative lighting around a pool deck. Worked like a charm. Also great for grout removal in tile work.
The first one I saw was having a cast removed in 1973 when I was in second grade. Now I have a corded one and a cordless. One of my favorite tools. I recently saw a blade that was a rectangle and would cut a hole in drywall for an outlet box in one step. Pure genius!
@@pamelah6431 These medical oscillating saws will indeed cut skin and soft tissue if enough pressure is used, but you need to press harder that for cutting a cast or bone and make a real attempt to cut soft tissue. You develop the proper technique, just like any other tool.
FYI, the original oscillating saw was patented in 1947 by Dr. Homer Stryker. It has been used in the medical field since then. I first used it in the mid seventies when we found out it worked very well on fiberglass panels. Cuts them like butter with not too much dust. We called them “Bone saws”. They were also used to remove casts from a patient without cutting skin. Back then the only problem was that you had to purchase the Styker blades from a medical supply house and they were expensive. Look up Styker, they are still in business today.
Cast removal was my first run in. Like all kids, you think the blade is rotating around and it terrifies you. Then, they tell you to touch it and it terrifies you more. Then the Dr. touches it and you feel better, but still terrified because of the sound. Lol. Also Stryker is a monster company. More than just still in business.
@@shirothehero0609 Stryker makes many hundreds of products that are used in the medical field. You will see their name on those yellow ambulance stretchers, hospital beds and so many other pieces of equipment that we use in the hospital. They also have a recycling division that comes and collects all the wires and cables we use, sterilizes them for reuse or reclaims the useful metals.
I remembered first seeing one was when my doctor removed the cast on my broken arm with one. I was intrigued that it cut it open without cutting into my arm 😂
The fact that these didn't exist in mass production until 2008 makes A lot of sense now, thank you! I randomly got one from harbor freight probably around 2010 or so. It turned out that I was blown away by how useful it was. Not long after that, we had a project at my parents house that required cutting a lot of nails off flush with the end of wood, and that sold my dad on it. He is an incredibly handy man who seemingly can fix everything, and I remember us talking about 10 years ago and he was wondering how in the world had he had never seen such a tool before. Both him and I certainly have one in our tool collection these days.
Wow! I'm completely new to using a multi-tool and have already watched 3 or 4 tutorial videos but FINALLY - you have covered ALL the bases in great detail without rambling. Articulate, concise, comprehensive, excellent visuals. Grade A tutorial - thank you!
One tip I have picked up is that you can also mount 2 blades back to back, which in effect helps you cut a parallel channel in drywall or wood for running wires etc
Bought mine on a lark and justified the purchase as being a birthday gift a couple of years ago. Plus I needed to make like two flush cuts on some baseboard. Two years later, and this thing has become indispensable in my shop. Never would have thought it could come in useful in so many different ways! I'm especially fond of the chisel blade--it helped me immensely to remove old, glued-on plywood underlayment in a recent bathroom remodel. I also never thought about being able to actually touch the blade while in use. THAT might be a game-changer for me in the future. Thanks, SN!
@@ohmike813 Oh wow, I always wondered how they were able to use what seemed like a spinning disk to cut casts without also cutting the skin. This makes perfect sense! Thanks :)
Betcha you could use the those weird saws 0:17 Then start realising that that weird thingee could cut all I waanted and never cut a person's. It became the darling on that ward.
I LOVE mine. I work construction and got one a couple years ago, it makes you wonder how anybody got anything done without it lol. It's the perfect tool for so many things. My favorite one being probably doing floors. You can use this tool to cut off the bottom of trim and door frames to slide the floor underneath it, gives a super clean look (you don't have to worry about edges of the floor cuts being perfect as they'll be hidden under the trim) and takes about 30 seconds and your door is prepped.
I paid $450 for my first one - the Fein corded original - in the mid 80's. I still have it plus two cordless Makitas. I figured you would miss some of the tricks I have learned over the years, but no, you covered it all. As usual :-)
Great video James. My oscillating tool is dubbed the “tool I forget I own” more often than I want to admit. It has gotten me out of many jams and now with your video I actually know how to use it better!
Interesting how different some people see the same thing. My oscillator has risen through the ranks and tied with the impact driver for my most used tool. I can't remember a job I did where I DIDN'T use it at least once.
@@justinayers3589, on the job I bought mine Fein Tool for (stair railing project), the homeowner asked me to cut a hole for a bedroom door latch, which had been neglected for a decade. A Feign tool and plunge cut was perfect for cutting a hole for the door to latch into. A bit of chisel work and a annoying task was cut down to just minutes.
Watching a stumpy nubs tutorial is always like going over exam questions after the exam - I’m so relieved when he says something that I got right 😮💨🙏🏻
One tip you might want to include is that the (steel) blades can often be sharpened! I've used a jeweler's file to re-sharpen a blade many times, it works rather well.
I built a cradle to hold my rotary tool horizontal with a sharp edged silicon carbide (green)stone. Then added a platform to rest my dull blade on and gently feed it into the spinning stone. Fast!
I remember the first time I saw an oscillating tool which was in the early 90’s. I was working as a floor installer for a pretty large flooring company. I was an apprentice back then and my job was to always cut door casing for flooring to go underneath for a cleaner look. We had a Crain undercut saw but there were a lot of areas that the Crain couldn’t get to so I would use a hand saw. A reciprocating saw was also an option but I was still too green to comfortably get a good clean cut with one. Anyway, Fein came to do a demonstration at our warehouse and my mind was blown! We ended up buying a bunch of them from Fein and never looked back. I am now a finish carpenter, mainly doing cabinet installation, but my multi tool is one of the tools that is always in the truck. It doesnt get a ton of use, but its a life saver when I reach for it!! Cool video
Yup! My first one was a Fein corded one. Still got it. They designed a profile sanding accessory as well and I got one. When I bought a cordless multitool from a different manufacturer I tried to modify the profile sander to fit it but couldn't. If I want to use it I've got to get the fein out. Multi tools need to be cordless just like drill/drivers and be toolless blade replacement just like jigsaw.
Came to the comments for this exact tool. Im a floor layer as well and i absolutely hate using the jamb saw/undercut saw. For starters, its just way too powerful for its intended purpose and it often sends a peice flying across the room. Also, as its intended to be used by cutting around the jamb without having to stop, which means using upto 3 out of the 4 quadrants of the blade during 1 cut. Not to mention what can happen if you hit a nail (yes, ive broken windows, more than once) or pehaps accidentally go in a bit to far without realising the house is steel framed (yes, done this too, only once though, actually shattered and broke a decent chunk off the blade, had a bit of a sore shoulder and hand after the kickback threw my arm into the wall as well) This is gonna sounds stupid, but being from Australia, where basically everything wants to kill us, we kinda get raised to have a fearless mentality and a nonchalant attitude towards everything, however, nothing scares the shit outta me more than when i have to use the bloody undercut saw, which has been 5 days a week for nearly 15 years now. I've experienced kickback from other saws (chainsaws, circular saws etc.) before, but they dont even come close to an undercut saw. I think its something about being on your knees with limited mobility and having no way to know when it's gonna happen and no way get out the way of anything. It's basically a game of 'jamb saw roulette'.
@@davidashton2361 I just got my first multitool to cut rectangular holes in weatherboard to install vents. Got sold up to the one with starlock system of toolfree blade changing. Thank god. I hate fiddling with that crap
I recall when oscillating saws first became ubiquitous, after Fein's patent had expired, I brought one on the job, as a finish carpenter, and my boss at the time made fun of it, calling it the 'stupid saw'. Long story short, it wasn't too long before everyone on the crew was laughing at him multiple times a day when he would request the services of the 'stupid saw'. The name stuck but strictly in an ironic manner.
I bought one of these several years ago. I selected the Porter Cable for a couple of reasons. The first and main reason was because of the quick blade change; lift a lever and change the blade. I can change a blade in seconds. Many brands had a complicated screw mechanism for changing the blade. The other feature I looked for was the speed control. This is a must!
Mate, your tip about reusing orbital sander pads on the oscillator is sheer genius. Simple, efficient and elegant. Economy wrapped in brilliance dear James, thank you for brightening my mind and my day with such a clever tip, kind of as usual but truly eleven out of ten for this morning’s efforts, I’m in Aust so 9:30 am and just getting into the day after breakfast and this clip, excellent mate, you’ve given me a great start to the day, hope yours is even better, 😎👍
I saw one of these tools used for the first time about a year ago. Got one for Father's Day and what a game changer! Your tips here are going to be very helpful for my upcoming projects.
Got mine as a Christmas gift from my late father in law right after HFT started selling them. It's corded and single speed but I love the tool. I have since bought another because the first one has sentimental value. Your video has some really good tips.
Thank you Stumpy for all the great tips. You produce great videos !! I have a tip I would like to add. In many cases, you can move the cutting edge of the blade slightly left and right, in addition to the oscillating motion, which greatly helps cutting efficiency and reduces blade burning. This oscillating multi tool, is often one of my favorite tools.
I discovered another use for the sharp scraper blades. I re-soled my work boots (Vibram soles and Barge cement) and needed to trim them to fit (I take a size 13 boot, but Vibram only offers size 12 and 14 replacement soles). I tried my oscillating tool with several toothed blades and made a smelly mess of things. I switched to the scraper blade and it was like cutting butter--smooth, fast cutting of the rubber.
I found the best use for the sanding pads is to wrap a wet microfibre cloth around them to remove grout haze from wall tiles, especially the stickier stuff like Fusion Pro.
Personally I’ve just always removed the blade when putting mine away. Only takes a second, and also makes it take up less room in the toolbox. Just for the record I do the same with my jigsaw and reciprocating saw as well. It just always made sense to me.
Mine comes in a small plastic case with all the accessories, so I also store the tool disassembled because it won't fit otherwise. But I'll probably get another MAKPAC in the futute, for more different sawblades and sandpapers along with the tool, sacrificing the snug fit of the original case 😅
I thought the same thing - um, take it off before bagging it? Not sure I'd ever store it with the blade on, even backwards. Enough rattling in a bag in the truck and it can still cut through your circ saw cord or whatever else you have in the same bag.
@@JV-pu8kx 10000%. If you store or transport tools with bits, blades, end mills, etc. you are stupid and lazy or you have more money than sense and like buying new tooling, bags and replacing damaged tools. Not sure why ANYONE would store a tool with a bit, blade, endmill, etc. still installed. That's just insane to me.
Agreed I remove the bits/discs etc from all of my battery tools, and i stress it to my apprentices to do the same. Only takes one speed bumpnamd you've damaged a bit or cutter
This is one of those tools that most people first saw on an early morning infomercial and because of that they thought it was probably not that great, myself included. Then once you actually used it you realized how you ever lived your life without it. This is my go to tool for all home renovations.
Very clear speech and voice. Good pacing and cadence. Good video shots with steady camera work and good lighting. I really appreciate the excellent editing, with cuts to the tool in use and back to the narrative.
Thank you James. I have had a Fein MM for years for grunt work rehabbing houses mostly. Just now learning to apply it to my craft woodwork. The finger sanding discs are great for sanding small projects. Great idea re-using the center of orbital pads for the fingers. MM is loud as he** but very versatile.
Good amazon find on the blades, I recently had to sand many small cnc bridge tabs off a ply project, stuck self adhesive sandpaper to an old worn blade and it worked perfect!
Another timely lesson from the University of Woodworking and Professor James Hamilton!!! Well done and educational. I didn't realize I wasn't using my tool properly. Some excellent tips. Thank you!
I love using my oscillating tool for disassembling pallets. I don't mind the leftover nails for my projects as they are usually for outside garden use. This little thing has saved me many hours of my time!
The Fein O/C tools were well known by wooden boaters long before carpenters. Removing caulk between hull planks is especially tedious. Also the Fein manufacturer has shaped sanding pads for profiles like shiplap siding (also called German siding). And one last use: I was insulating a hot tub with 2" rigid foam, cutting foam that thick with a knife is difficult and a saw produces a cloud of static-laden plastic particle dust! The round blade zips right thru rigid foam with ease of control and a minimum of plastic dust.
OMG thank you! Ive been looking for this answer in forums all day and yours is the first anecdotal evidence of the blade working well for the purpose. Much appreciated!
Do people forget that “liking” these videos is a great way of thanking the person who took a lot of time to create them? 1.7 million views and only 31k likes? Come on folks! Cheers to this channel and so many others that help make our lives easier!
Thank you for this. I really hope you do the follow up video soon, because I planed to buy one for drywalls probably this winter, so it will be appreciated. Thank you for all your videos on woodworking. You really helped me getting started.
As a retired ER nurse, I remember using this saw to cut many casts off. The hardest part was trying to gain trust of your patients. The saw was very loud! Great video!
Stumpy: Thank you again. It is obvious that you work hard on planning what you want to communicate and the result is great. Great content. Great communication.
Whilst my Multi-tool is the least used tool in my shop, when I do use it it's usually because no other tool will do the job as efficiently or at all. Always grateful for your videos
Thank you for a great video! I thought I had oscilliating saws down pat, but you definitely provided a number of tips that I would not have thought of. It makes me want to run down to the shop to try them all out!
Back in my remodeling days first tools out of the truck were toolbags, 8lb. sledge hammer and Milwaukee heavy duty Sawzall. Now it's toolbags and multi tool. I.live in a small town on Texas Coast and different blades are alittle difficult to buy from our lumber yard or the blue big box store in the next big town. But they make blades for almost everything you can think of. Great video keep them coming
Thank you for this video I don't have one yet and have been looking into them. This makes it easier to understand what I need to look for. I've been looking for one to help rough out my woodcarvings. Keep the great videos coming I watch them all.
You can also use the tool for . . . scrubbing! A sanding pad can also more or less hold onto Scotchbrite cut to fit. We have a bathtub that collects , probably the interaction of soap and hard water, but not easy to clean. DeWalt cordless + sanding pad + Scotchbrite + Scrubbing Bubbles is a bit messy, but cleans way easier than an old man's elbow grease. As a saw, it's the least likely to amputate something you want to keep. 😊
I thought of this at one of my old jobs went out bought an air powered one brought my compressor and after gallons of degreaser the surfaces looked brand new
I bought my Dremel Multi-Tool 12 years ago and thought I hit a gold mine as the Fein was to expensive. Now I thought I knew everything there was about using this tool, and I used the hell out of it and it still works fine. But I have to say I really got some great tips from you video. I subscribed and look forward to more videos. Thanks.
My first one was a dremel also. Recently added a Ridgid cordless. a big improvement in the new ones is interchangability of blades between brands. also tool less blade swaps. Recently used mine to cut out a part of an aluminum csting web to gain access. No other tool I had would have done it....and was fast also. Working in restricted spaces is one area where these rally shine.
Great video! I bought my Bosch corded multitool when the first Fein-a-like clones came out, it always goes on jobs “just in case”, and I still love it. Most unexpected use - using a diamond edged half-circle blade that cost nearly as much as the tool to remove ancient rock hard wall tile adhesive. Nothing else would shift it short of demolition.
Thank you so much for this video! I just purchased an inexpensive oscillating tool at Harbor Freight and a couple of blades on sale - thought it would be good to learn with. Had no idea how to use it, but now I feel confident enough to try it out.
Right tool for the job as they say. I never quite appreciated the oscillating tool until I started into a bunch of interior remodeling a few years ago; It’s indispensable in that area. Now I’m building a deck and dock platform and only have only used an oscillating tool once in the past month. I don’t do much fine woodworking and am not sure how useful they are in that capacity, but I’m sure they have a uses.
I actually forgot I had one of these until this video. It came with the DeWalt set I bought when I got started and I think I’ve only used it a couple of times. I’m going to have to check it out and play around a bit. Thanks for the reminder!
Selected Summary: For a plunge cut, start with the corner of a blade. Use the corner to follow a line, to make a curf. Use a block of scrap to align the blade perpendicular to service. Let the tool do the work, especially to allow the dust to come out of the cut. Don’t be afraid to touch the oscillating head (AWAY from the blade). Use tape instead of on blade marks to measure depth. Use blades with extended width blades Maybe grind away part of an extended blade so that is is shallower, and allow smaller radium cuts. Half circle blades work well for straight lines, and pipe. Cutting metal-slow down the speed. Cutting metal-use less pressure. Wood cutting blades have large teeth, and greater spacing. Metal cutting have shorter teeth, and narrower spacing. Bimetal blades have a body of spring steel, and teeth of harder steel. Carbide TOOTH blades will go through screws and sheet metal. Maybe the best blade for metal, but not for wood. Instead of scrapers, maybe just use dull worn out blades. Storage: Turn the blade backwards (to protect the blade).
Saved me watching the remaining 9 minutes only to find no new info. You should provide this service to all other UA-cam videos / tv / radio / the government. Cheers dude!
Thanks for listing a good Radial Arm saw blade supplier. Finding negative angle blades are real tough when hook angles are hardly listed on the labels of a lot of chain store blades. Have been using a radial arm saw for almost 60 years and currently have a rebuilt 1958 Craftsman with new bearings and 220 volt wired, although used mostly for plain cross cutting or angle cuts. Got my first table saw about 25 years ago, so it is the ripping tool now, but used to do everything on the radial arm. On the Multi-tool, really good tip on the sanding disc reuse. Stores are slowly phasing out multi-tool sanding pads, with some selling perforated detail sander sheets that can be torn down to multi-tool size. At $1.20 a sheet and throwing away half the sheet, that is not a bargain. I, too, use it mostly for corners and around pegs (cup racks, etc.) and mostly rough sanding with a sanding block touch up.
Great tips. Thanks. I didn’t find a good use for the larger sanding triangle either, but the small finger is essential for sanding narrow epoxy spots when building wood epoxy boats. If I try to do it by hand, I have the tendency to round the area. The finger attachment allows me to keep crisper edges and flat bottoms. I always remove the blades for storage, mainly because the tub I keep it in is too short for the tool plus blade.
Okay. I thought I would at least learn a little... I learned a lot! I've been using this tool for years and 10 minutes of watching this video has completely changed how I'll use it in the future. Thank you very, very much. Great video!
If whatever you're scraping is coming off easy, it's faster to scrape it by hand but if it's something that's not wanting to let go, multitool is way faster.
This is probably the most useful DIY video I have yet seen on UA-cam, opening my eyes to how to properly use one of the most useful powertools you can get. 👍
Observation: the fine pigtails caused by the narrow range of motion are lessened by a longer tool blade. So if you want to finish sand in a tight corner, take a worn blade, rivet an extension to it, and attach your sandpaper to the extension. That's my theory, going to by my first OMT tomorrow! Great video!
What a fantastic video. After watching your demonstrations, I think back to all of the times I was using the wrong tool for the job as my multi tool just sat buried in my box. Thank you sir.
Great video! I have a very inexpensive and basic oscillating tool, which is great for my needs as I don't use it very frequently. As a result, I've never taken the time to learn its finer points. But this video really filled in the gaps, and now maybe I'll pull it out of the drawer more often. Thanks for making this.
Most if this stuff you discover after enough personal usage, but..... The tip about the carbide tip and the drywall and construction screws IS PRICELESS. Those two materials will COMPLETELY DESTROY A STANDARD BLADE IN LESS THAN A SECOND. Just a couple of "oscillations" against those materials and your blade is relegated to becoming a "scraper" blade, and that's an expensive scraper blade! Great tip!
I learned just now to turn my blade backwards 🤦🏻♂️…you’re the first content creator I’ve heard say this,and I’m not joking!Youre definitely my favorite cause you have taught me more than any one of these guys and I just started watching you last night.Thanks brother!
The other thing I've learned about these is that the blades are often not very good about clearing chips due to the short strokes. If you have to make a narrow cut, they cut much faster if you move the saw side to side gently as you cut.
Thanks for the link to the big set of blades, I really like that they come with a case! I tend to only use my multi tool to sand in spots because sanding killed my first multi tool by vibrating the switch apart. I also tend to remove the blade on my tool for storage because most times I will be doing something different with it next time I use it, I had a Rockwell years ago that came with a soft bag and that bag is great. Thanks for the sandpaper tip, because I don't sand a lot that tip will fit my work flow better than buying precut sandpaper.
I've wanted one of these tools for a while now. I'm glad I watched this video before getting my hands on one, and possibly damaging it, or whatever I might use it on. You do a great job on these videos, and I, for one, really appreciate the time, effort, and information you put into them. Thank you.👍
I've been using my oscillator to clean out the left over mortar after I use my grinder on repoint jobs. I have found that all the grout grinders are very brittle and break easy but the hardened multi material blades are pretty good at getting the surface clean
Regarding sanding: I agree that the hook & loop type sanding pads aren’t the best match for these tools. However, I’ve had very good luck attaching PSA backed sandpaper to one side of a scraper blade and using that in hard to reach places with great success. I highly recommend keeping that one in your arsenal of sanding tools.
Some really great tips here, thank you! For me, mine has proved it's worth when I had leaks under two of my sinks, saturating the cheap, unsealed particle board cabinet and dishing the bottom (in one case, almost 5 inches (!)). I was able to use the tool to remove the bottoms, and then replace them with clear coated Baltic Birch plywood (ah, memories). In the tight areas, the oscillating tool made removal a quick and easy process.
The sanding attachment has been invaluable for me doing bodywork on a van - sanding smooth the body-filler I use after I've cleaned up rust with an angle-grinder. I expect I'll also use it when doing some plasterwork in the near future. I can't see a scenario where I'd want to use it for wood, but you never know...
The brazed carbide tipped, off brand blades are actually wicked good for metal cutoff and inexpensive compared to a Dremel or Bosch or Milwaukee. I do lots of metal - 304 stainless, 1018 steel, etc. and even though they are off brand (like harbor freight or Bauer) they still work wicked well. Usually faster for doing cutoffs than my bandsaw and great because you don't have to completely disassemble things in order to get it to the bandsaw or mill. Also, take off the blade to store it?
Good tips, that has always been my number 1 complaint about this tool, it seems like my blades are done after a single cut, and it got ridiculous how fast I was going through expensive blades. I'll try out some of these tips to make my blades last longer.
Thank you so much sir! I have had one of these for years, and it spends most of its time on the shelf. I’m hoping your tips and tricks will unleash it to its full potential.
It's easy. If you NEED the BEST, then Fein is the ONLY way to go. (Not battery powered, but corded power.) All the rest are still good and do mostly the same thing, but just not heavy duty like the Fein. Most people using for "household" uses don't need the quality of the more expensive Fein. As the Honda ad used to say: "Why buy something "like" a Honda when you could just buy a Honda?" Fein is a better quality and thus more expensive, but a similar concept to the Honda ad.
Well done video. Thank you. I picked my tool up to cut door trim and such for flooring installation and it worked brilliantly. I've also used it to refurbish a seriously abused cast iron pan and to cut back a stone fireplace hearth. The cast iron pan was almost a fun job. The hearth job was thankless but fortunately the circle carbide blade was far faster than any other tool I threw at it. I see people still fumbling away with more conventional tools that this beast can do quickly and with a bit of finesse. Thanks again for a great video.
After watching this, I went and bought me one. Don’t know what I’ll use it for right now but I have a lot of projects that it’ll come in handy for! Thanks for such an interesting and informative video about this tool.
I have found the sanding attachment great for precise removal of paint. For example- in a factory painted plywood panel where I needed to remove a patch of paint to get a gluing surface without scratching the surrounding painted area.
I have used an oscillating saw for a couple of years but never really got into how to maximise it's potential, thank you for your clear, understandable segment. And I would see pt 2 if it's around ✋
I just recently bought the makita cordless. For a large project. I stumbled on to this video...glad I did...all the things Not to do, I did. It cost me a blade, fuel and time. Since then I have purchased a few more different types of blades. And with the links..odds are I'll be getting a set.
SUPER informative. I've only been using multi-tools for about 5 years. Started with a cheap Harbor Freight, then realized what a game changer they are. I then upgraded to a Ryobi cordless. I keep the Harby around and still use it quite often. GREAT deal on those blades too. THANKS!!
Thank you for this well-produced, excellent video! This video provided me a heck of a lot more information about which oscillating blade to pick for which job. Some of your information contradicts what I've seen on other videos, but I feel very confident that you have it right because the information makes perfect sense.
Something I learned through my own use of oscillating tools is a back-and-forth motion as if you are sawing into the material makes for faster cuts and clears the blade of dust more readily.
Thank you for showing some lesser known facts/uses of these tools. Some of them I found out on my own by simply experimenting, but others were new to me. I've got one of these oscillating multitools last year, when I started repairing/upcycling a lot of my old furniture. Since I was/am on a budget, I couldn't afford to by several different and task specific powertools that I would have needed, so I decided to buy a multitool. And what can I say? I love the versatility of that thing. I even use the sanding head (extensively 😅) for stripping paint/varnish quickly. That multitool was of a really cheap variety, but it helped me so much and is working exceptionally well for a tool that has been cheaply mass produced. The only gripe I have with it is, that the mechanism to attach the blades (the pattern of the holes) is "one of a kind" and it is difficult to get new or a variety of blades, let alone better quality blades that fit. But that is not a fault of the kind of tool, but simply due to the cheap manufacturing. I would 100% buy an oscillating multitool again - better quality and a few more blades - now that I have worked with one and have benefitted from the versatility.
Here in Mid 2024 I finally purchased an oscillating tool. I chose the Makita brushless with AVT. I generally favor Makita but a couple of comparison videos showed it was the superior tool. I don’t know how I went this long without it. It’s an amazing addition to the box and the blades available are fantastic.
Good information! Thank you! I really like the reusing the oscillating tool sanding pads. By the way, I also use and reuse those on a piece of PVC for sanding inside curves and inside holes. I have been known to cut pieces off of them for small area sanding as well. I reuse whenever possible. I have even cut and reused old sanding pads to clean off battery terminals on my car and lawn tractor. Curl it up and sand the inside of the clamps.
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Straight up I just don't care for wireless I mean it serves a purpose like if I just can't get a cord long enough but if I can get a cord long enough I just use the corded I don't even bother with wireless much anymore
@@rebeccachambers4701 Oh I don’t know about that one at all. I love cordless compared to my early stuff of the 80s and 90s. Still I don’t use it for HD things and items I use very infrequently…..like this tool here. On the other hand if you’re a farmer or mechanic who works in the boonies ect. they are essential . Both types have their places and better usages.
Gg%
I never even thought of putting the blade on sideways for tough to reach areas. I feel like such an idiot for not thinking of that. Ha. I already learned like 3 things and I'm only 3:24 into this video. Thank you Stumpy Nubs. (BTW, I have a stumpy nub on my left hand. 5 years ago I was cutting a 2" piece of hardwood concave 3/4' round shoe base trim at a left 45 degree miter angle and had removed the guard on my miter saw. Needless to say, that was a bad idea. The saw blade hit the wood and pulled it into the blade with my finger still holding the wood. It didn't cut off my left index finger but it shredded it real good. Shredded the bone too and chunked out muscle, tendons, and skin. Got rushed to the E.R. and ended up having the last quarter of my finger amputated, right at the first knuckle. Always keep your guard on your miter saw and back up small pieces of wood with a longer backing piece and keep fingers clear.) God bless.
Great video
As an old instructional video producer I especially appreciate your use of the television medium: straight shots with minimum and only appropriate movement, few or no special effects, serious discussion of your subject, closeups with movement only when absolutely necessary to show your subject, and well prepared delivery. Great work and keep it up.
And only useful for people without common sense.
I was just looking at a $1500 laser level that has automatic target lock on capability that's made by Leica and they're a company a lot of engineers buy their tools from. Instead of demonstrating the unique capability of the laser level on the commercial, they have 2 male engineers staring at the rear end of this female engineer who has the ML180. I thought surely there has to be a demonstration and I even asked Leica themselves and they said no. So for their top of the line laser level model, all I know is that womans rear end. I would have fired every person who worked on that commercial. It's hard to fathom how stupid things have become.
You don't like jump cuts, background music, sound effects, visual effects, zooming in-and-out constantly, focusing on the face of the person instead of the product? Weird.
The usual down-to earth clarity we've come to love about your videos. Mercifully no *^&%^$%#$ music. Thank you. (And that from a musician!)
@@edide1627 How so?
Enjoy your videos. No distracting crappy music to tolerate and you articulate your points very well. Thank you.
I do like your straightforward approach, no distactions, just information. Thank you.
As a Registered Nurse, I've used oscillating saws for almost 40 years in cast removal. They are safe because they would not readily cut skin when they penetrated the cast during removal. They are also used extensively in orthopedic and neurosurgery to cut bone. I never thought about the patent issues that kept this tool from crossing over to the woodworker and building trades. I just used a masonry blade for the first time a couple of weeks ago to cut slots in mortar joints to mount decorative lighting around a pool deck. Worked like a charm. Also great for grout removal in tile work.
My first thought was all the casts I had cut off with one of them.
The first one I saw was having a cast removed in 1973 when I was in second grade. Now I have a corded one and a cordless. One of my favorite tools. I recently saw a blade that was a rectangle and would cut a hole in drywall for an outlet box in one step. Pure genius!
True, I had a cast cut off in 1963 with an oscillating tool
I never understood how they could cut metal and bone but not skin.
@@pamelah6431 These medical oscillating saws will indeed cut skin and soft tissue if enough pressure is used, but you need to press harder that for cutting a cast or bone and make a real attempt to cut soft tissue. You develop the proper technique, just like any other tool.
FYI, the original oscillating saw was patented in 1947 by Dr. Homer Stryker. It has been used in the medical field since then. I first used it in the mid seventies when we found out it worked very well on fiberglass panels. Cuts them like butter with not too much dust. We called them “Bone saws”. They were also used to remove casts from a patient without cutting skin. Back then the only problem was that you had to purchase the Styker blades from a medical supply house and they were expensive. Look up Styker, they are still in business today.
Cast removal was my first run in. Like all kids, you think the blade is rotating around and it terrifies you. Then, they tell you to touch it and it terrifies you more. Then the Dr. touches it and you feel better, but still terrified because of the sound. Lol.
Also Stryker is a monster company. More than just still in business.
@@xoxo2008oxox yes, I agree with you. And the price of everything has gone up and the quality has gone done.
Right you are. I used them for years to remove and bi-valve casts.
@@shirothehero0609 Stryker makes many hundreds of products that are used in the medical field. You will see their name on those yellow ambulance stretchers, hospital beds and so many other pieces of equipment that we use in the hospital. They also have a recycling division that comes and collects all the wires and cables we use, sterilizes them for reuse or reclaims the useful metals.
I remembered first seeing one was when my doctor removed the cast on my broken arm with one. I was intrigued that it cut it open without cutting into my arm 😂
The fact that these didn't exist in mass production until 2008 makes A lot of sense now, thank you! I randomly got one from harbor freight probably around 2010 or so. It turned out that I was blown away by how useful it was. Not long after that, we had a project at my parents house that required cutting a lot of nails off flush with the end of wood, and that sold my dad on it. He is an incredibly handy man who seemingly can fix everything, and I remember us talking about 10 years ago and he was wondering how in the world had he had never seen such a tool before. Both him and I certainly have one in our tool collection these days.
It's so useful I'm a handyman maintenance guy and I use it all the time. Get painted windows unstuck, removing grout , caulk around showers,
Wow! I'm completely new to using a multi-tool and have already watched 3 or 4 tutorial videos but FINALLY - you have covered ALL the bases in great detail without rambling. Articulate, concise, comprehensive, excellent visuals. Grade A tutorial - thank you!
Best clarity of speaking on UA-cam
Him and Puddles Pity Party. :)
@@pamelah6431 Haha. Not even close. Go listen to Jack Chapple. OVER THE TOP
Agree! 👍
Nicely narrated with a pleasant voice and no unnecessary padding of the content. I enjoyed this video and found it very informative.
One tip I have picked up is that you can also mount 2 blades back to back, which in effect helps you cut a parallel channel in drywall or wood for running wires etc
Not really. The vibratory action and flexibility of the blades distort for a parallel cut.
Now that’s an idea I have to try out! Thanks!
This works a treat with 2 semi circular blades with a spacer set between them and a longer mounting bolt/screw.
@@michaelhamerin3814 It works very well if you use the right blade choice.
Wow. I am about to run 100 ft of various Romex. I am going to try that.
Bought mine on a lark and justified the purchase as being a birthday gift a couple of years ago. Plus I needed to make like two flush cuts on some baseboard. Two years later, and this thing has become indispensable in my shop. Never would have thought it could come in useful in so many different ways! I'm especially fond of the chisel blade--it helped me immensely to remove old, glued-on plywood underlayment in a recent bathroom remodel.
I also never thought about being able to actually touch the blade while in use. THAT might be a game-changer for me in the future. Thanks, SN!
Originally, they were used by orthopedic doctors to remove casts.
@@ohmike813 Oh wow, I always wondered how they were able to use what seemed like a spinning disk to cut casts without also cutting the skin. This makes perfect sense! Thanks :)
Betcha you could use the those weird saws 0:17 Then start realising that that weird thingee could cut all I waanted and never cut a person's. It became the darling on that ward.
I LOVE mine. I work construction and got one a couple years ago, it makes you wonder how anybody got anything done without it lol. It's the perfect tool for so many things. My favorite one being probably doing floors. You can use this tool to cut off the bottom of trim and door frames to slide the floor underneath it, gives a super clean look (you don't have to worry about edges of the floor cuts being perfect as they'll be hidden under the trim) and takes about 30 seconds and your door is prepped.
I paid $450 for my first one - the Fein corded original - in the mid 80's. I still have it plus two cordless Makitas. I figured you would miss some of the tricks I have learned over the years, but no, you covered it all. As usual :-)
Fein the original & the best.
I still have my original corded Fein from 20 odd years ago but these days I most often use my Dewalt 20 volt cordless multi tool.
That must be around a thousand dollars in today's money. Tools were sure built solid then.
@@jamesrecknor6752 The price of these types of tools was hideous when they were only considered a 'specialists tool'
Price for the tool have gone but the price for the blades are ridiculously expensive.
Great video James. My oscillating tool is dubbed the “tool I forget I own” more often than I want to admit. It has gotten me out of many jams and now with your video I actually know how to use it better!
Interesting how different some people see the same thing. My oscillator has risen through the ranks and tied with the impact driver for my most used tool. I can't remember a job I did where I DIDN'T use it at least once.
@@justinayers3589, on the job I bought mine Fein Tool for (stair railing project), the homeowner asked me to cut a hole for a bedroom door latch, which had been neglected for a decade. A Feign tool and plunge cut was perfect for cutting a hole for the door to latch into. A bit of chisel work and a annoying task was cut down to just minutes.
I too forget quite often I have one.Actually two.😊Blades are actually a problem to get and expensive in sunny South Africa.
Watching a stumpy nubs tutorial is always like going over exam questions after the exam - I’m so relieved when he says something that I got right 😮💨🙏🏻
One tip you might want to include is that the (steel) blades can often be sharpened! I've used a jeweler's file to re-sharpen a blade many times, it works rather well.
I built a cradle to hold my rotary tool horizontal with a sharp edged silicon carbide (green)stone. Then added a platform to rest my dull blade on and gently feed it into the spinning stone. Fast!
Totally agree with sharpening the blades as they do get dull quickly.
Another thing, meantion that a lot of times you can use alcohol or thinner and clean the blade to resharpen. A lot of times the teeth are just clogged
You can buy 100 blades on line for 50 bucks. And they seem just as good as the ao dollar blades
@@stevenwood9646 I’m interested, do you have a link? Thx👍🏻
I remember the first time I saw an oscillating tool which was in the early 90’s. I was working as a floor installer for a pretty large flooring company. I was an apprentice back then and my job was to always cut door casing for flooring to go underneath for a cleaner look. We had a Crain undercut saw but there were a lot of areas that the Crain couldn’t get to so I would use a hand saw. A reciprocating saw was also an option but I was still too green to comfortably get a good clean cut with one.
Anyway, Fein came to do a demonstration at our warehouse and my mind was blown! We ended up buying a bunch of them from Fein and never looked back. I am now a finish carpenter, mainly doing cabinet installation, but my multi tool is one of the tools that is always in the truck. It doesnt get a ton of use, but its a life saver when I reach for it!!
Cool video
Yup! My first one was a Fein corded one. Still got it. They designed a profile sanding accessory as well and I got one. When I bought a cordless multitool from a different manufacturer I tried to modify the profile sander to fit it but couldn't.
If I want to use it I've got to get the fein out.
Multi tools need to be cordless just like drill/drivers and be toolless blade replacement just like jigsaw.
Came to the comments for this exact tool. Im a floor layer as well and i absolutely hate using the jamb saw/undercut saw. For starters, its just way too powerful for its intended purpose and it often sends a peice flying across the room.
Also, as its intended to be used by cutting around the jamb without having to stop, which means using upto 3 out of the 4 quadrants of the blade during 1 cut.
Not to mention what can happen if you hit a nail (yes, ive broken windows, more than once) or pehaps accidentally go in a bit to far without realising the house is steel framed (yes, done this too, only once though, actually shattered and broke a decent chunk off the blade, had a bit of a sore shoulder and hand after the kickback threw my arm into the wall as well)
This is gonna sounds stupid, but being from Australia, where basically everything wants to kill us, we kinda get raised to have a fearless mentality and a nonchalant attitude towards everything, however, nothing scares the shit outta me more than when i have to use the bloody undercut saw, which has been 5 days a week for nearly 15 years now.
I've experienced kickback from other saws (chainsaws, circular saws etc.) before, but they dont even come close to an undercut saw. I think its something about being on your knees with limited mobility and having no way to know when it's gonna happen and no way get out the way of anything. It's basically a game of 'jamb saw roulette'.
@@davidashton2361 I just got my first multitool to cut rectangular holes in weatherboard to install vents. Got sold up to the one with starlock system of toolfree blade changing. Thank god. I hate fiddling with that crap
I recall when oscillating saws first became ubiquitous, after Fein's patent had expired, I brought one on the job, as a finish carpenter, and my boss at the time made fun of it, calling it the 'stupid saw'. Long story short, it wasn't too long before everyone on the crew was laughing at him multiple times a day when he would request the services of the 'stupid saw'. The name stuck but strictly in an ironic manner.
I call ig a Jiggle Saw.
I couldn't believe it either, unstuck wood painted windows
That's awesome
@@dougmatthews2316 'wiggle tool'…. 😄
I don't miss the 45$ blades before the patent expired!!!!
I call it by the noise it makes
Finally, an excellent and interesting and illuminating video that isn't screaming at me! Didn't waste one second! Thank You!!
Using tape to control the plunge cut is a fine idea. Your channel is terrific.
Tape on a z axis drill bit works too
I bought one of these several years ago. I selected the Porter Cable for a couple of reasons. The first and main reason was because of the quick blade change; lift a lever and change the blade. I can change a blade in seconds. Many brands had a complicated screw mechanism for changing the blade. The other feature I looked for was the speed control. This is a must!
Another on the Rockwell RK5151K is differing angles of attack (basically the swinging back and forth of the blade).
The scraper blade attachment is my absolute favourite, takes dried glue off like no other.
Your channel is 10x better than any of the PBS woodworking shows. You need to be on TV
Mate, your tip about reusing orbital sander pads on the oscillator is sheer genius. Simple, efficient and elegant. Economy wrapped in brilliance dear James, thank you for brightening my mind and my day with such a clever tip, kind of as usual but truly eleven out of ten for this morning’s efforts, I’m in Aust so 9:30 am and just getting into the day after breakfast and this clip, excellent mate, you’ve given me a great start to the day, hope yours is even better, 😎👍
great positive comment
I saw one of these tools used for the first time about a year ago. Got one for Father's Day and what a game changer! Your tips here are going to be very helpful for my upcoming projects.
Got mine as a Christmas gift from my late father in law right after HFT started selling them. It's corded and single speed but I love the tool. I have since bought another because the first one has sentimental value. Your video has some really good tips.
Thank you Stumpy for all the great tips.
You produce great videos !!
I have a tip I would like to add.
In many cases, you can move the cutting edge of the blade slightly left and right, in addition to the oscillating motion, which greatly helps cutting efficiency and reduces blade burning.
This oscillating multi tool, is often one of my favorite tools.
I discovered another use for the sharp scraper blades. I re-soled my work boots (Vibram soles and Barge cement) and needed to trim them to fit (I take a size 13 boot, but Vibram only offers size 12 and 14 replacement soles). I tried my oscillating tool with several toothed blades and made a smelly mess of things. I switched to the scraper blade and it was like cutting butter--smooth, fast cutting of the rubber.
Fyi , When cutting rubber keep the blade wet . Works better with knives of any kind. 😀😎🇦🇺👌
@@rodmills4071 Dish soap for cutting lube works miracles when cutting rubber, and rinses off pretty readily afterwards.
They work great for cutting the customizable foam in cases too
Your presentation is excellent. Choice of words and clarity. I use a multitool regularly and can always learn new tricks!
I found the best use for the sanding pads is to wrap a wet microfibre cloth around them to remove grout haze from wall tiles, especially the stickier stuff like Fusion Pro.
Good tip
Brilliant tip.That grout is always a pain in the a.. to get off.
Personally I’ve just always removed the blade when putting mine away. Only takes a second, and also makes it take up less room in the toolbox. Just for the record I do the same with my jigsaw and reciprocating saw as well. It just always made sense to me.
Mine comes in a small plastic case with all the accessories, so I also store the tool disassembled because it won't fit otherwise. But I'll probably get another MAKPAC in the futute, for more different sawblades and sandpapers along with the tool, sacrificing the snug fit of the original case 😅
Drills, rotary tools, routers, bits are removed.
I thought the same thing - um, take it off before bagging it?
Not sure I'd ever store it with the blade on, even backwards. Enough rattling in a bag in the truck and it can still cut through your circ saw cord or whatever else you have in the same bag.
@@JV-pu8kx 10000%. If you store or transport tools with bits, blades, end mills, etc. you are stupid and lazy or you have more money than sense and like buying new tooling, bags and replacing damaged tools.
Not sure why ANYONE would store a tool with a bit, blade, endmill, etc. still installed. That's just insane to me.
Agreed
I remove the bits/discs etc from all of my battery tools, and i stress it to my apprentices to do the same.
Only takes one speed bumpnamd you've damaged a bit or cutter
This is one of those tools that most people first saw on an early morning infomercial and because of that they thought it was probably not that great, myself included. Then once you actually used it you realized how you ever lived your life without it.
This is my go to tool for all home renovations.
Very clear speech and voice. Good pacing and cadence. Good video shots with steady camera work and good lighting. I really appreciate the excellent editing, with cuts to the tool in use and back to the narrative.
James, I don’t often tell you how much I appreciate your videos.
Thoughtful and informative with a dash of humour.
Divine!
Thank you James. I have had a Fein MM for years for grunt work rehabbing houses mostly. Just now learning to apply it to my craft woodwork. The finger sanding discs are great for sanding small projects. Great idea re-using the center of orbital pads for the fingers. MM is loud as he** but very versatile.
Good amazon find on the blades, I recently had to sand many small cnc bridge tabs off a ply project, stuck self adhesive sandpaper to an old worn blade and it worked perfect!
Another timely lesson from the University of Woodworking and Professor James Hamilton!!! Well done and educational. I didn't realize I wasn't using my tool properly. Some excellent tips. Thank you!
UW - Hamilton
can you get us some jerseys?
I love using my oscillating tool for disassembling pallets. I don't mind the leftover nails for my projects as they are usually for outside garden use. This little thing has saved me many hours of my time!
I've always preferred a reciprocating saw for that type work. Especially the ones with the longer stroke.
The Fein O/C tools were well known by wooden boaters long before carpenters. Removing caulk between hull planks is especially tedious. Also the Fein manufacturer has shaped sanding pads for profiles like shiplap siding (also called German siding). And one last use: I was insulating a hot tub with 2" rigid foam, cutting foam that thick with a knife is difficult and a saw produces a cloud of static-laden plastic particle dust! The round blade zips right thru rigid foam with ease of control and a minimum of plastic dust.
OMG thank you! Ive been looking for this answer in forums all day and yours is the first anecdotal evidence of the blade working well for the purpose. Much appreciated!
Nothing better than the sander attachment for preparing an old wooden window for repainting, or fixing up the edges of old wood siding.
Do people forget that “liking” these videos is a great way of thanking the person who took a lot of time to create them? 1.7 million views and only 31k likes? Come on folks! Cheers to this channel and so many others that help make our lives easier!
I haven't used carbide and sandpaper on the block blew me away. I think I know everything now. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for this. I really hope you do the follow up video soon, because I planed to buy one for drywalls probably this winter, so it will be appreciated.
Thank you for all your videos on woodworking. You really helped me getting started.
As a retired ER nurse, I remember using this saw to cut many casts off. The hardest part was trying to gain trust of your patients. The saw was very loud! Great video!
Yes that's one of the couple of original uses for these. Also for cutting bone too.
Stumpy: Thank you again. It is obvious that you work hard on planning what you want to communicate and the result is great. Great content. Great communication.
Whilst my Multi-tool is the least used tool in my shop, when I do use it it's usually because no other tool will do the job as efficiently or at all. Always grateful for your videos
Thank you for a great video! I thought I had oscilliating saws down pat, but you definitely provided a number of tips that I would not have thought of. It makes me want to run down to the shop to try them all out!
Back in my remodeling days first tools out of the truck were toolbags, 8lb. sledge hammer and Milwaukee heavy duty Sawzall. Now it's toolbags and multi tool. I.live in a small town on Texas Coast and different blades are alittle difficult to buy from our lumber yard or the blue big box store in the next big town. But they make blades for almost everything you can think of. Great video keep them coming
Thank you for this video I don't have one yet and have been looking into them. This makes it easier to understand what I need to look for. I've been looking for one to help rough out my woodcarvings. Keep the great videos coming I watch them all.
get one and you'll soon wonder how you lived without it. they can get you out of so many jams - plunge cuts are so useful
You can also use the tool for . . . scrubbing! A sanding pad can also more or less hold onto Scotchbrite cut to fit. We have a bathtub that collects , probably the interaction of soap and hard water, but not easy to clean. DeWalt cordless + sanding pad + Scotchbrite + Scrubbing Bubbles is a bit messy, but cleans way easier than an old man's elbow grease. As a saw, it's the least likely to amputate something you want to keep. 😊
I thought of this at one of my old jobs went out bought an air powered one brought my compressor and after gallons of degreaser the surfaces looked brand new
I bought my Dremel Multi-Tool 12 years ago and thought I hit a gold mine as the Fein was to expensive. Now I thought I knew everything there was about using this tool, and I used the hell out of it and it still works fine. But I have to say I really got some great tips from you video. I subscribed and look forward to more videos. Thanks.
My first one was a dremel also. Recently added a Ridgid cordless. a big improvement in the new ones is interchangability of blades between brands. also tool less blade swaps. Recently used mine to cut out a part of an aluminum csting web to gain access. No other tool I had would have done it....and was fast also. Working in restricted spaces is one area where these rally shine.
Great video! I bought my Bosch corded multitool when the first Fein-a-like clones came out, it always goes on jobs “just in case”, and I still love it. Most unexpected use - using a diamond edged half-circle blade that cost nearly as much as the tool to remove ancient rock hard wall tile adhesive. Nothing else would shift it short of demolition.
Thank you so much for this video! I just purchased an inexpensive oscillating tool at Harbor Freight and a couple of blades on sale - thought it would be good to learn with. Had no idea how to use it, but now I feel confident enough to try it out.
Right tool for the job as they say. I never quite appreciated the oscillating tool until I started into a bunch of interior remodeling a few years ago; It’s indispensable in that area. Now I’m building a deck and dock platform and only have only used an oscillating tool once in the past month. I don’t do much fine woodworking and am not sure how useful they are in that capacity, but I’m sure they have a uses.
I actually forgot I had one of these until this video. It came with the DeWalt set I bought when I got started and I think I’ve only used it a couple of times. I’m going to have to check it out and play around a bit. Thanks for the reminder!
Selected Summary:
For a plunge cut, start with the corner of a blade.
Use the corner to follow a line, to make a curf.
Use a block of scrap to align the blade perpendicular to service.
Let the tool do the work, especially to allow the dust to come out of the cut.
Don’t be afraid to touch the oscillating head (AWAY from the blade).
Use tape instead of on blade marks to measure depth.
Use blades with extended width blades
Maybe grind away part of an extended blade so that is is shallower, and allow smaller radium cuts.
Half circle blades work well for straight lines, and pipe.
Cutting metal-slow down the speed.
Cutting metal-use less pressure.
Wood cutting blades have large teeth, and greater spacing.
Metal cutting have shorter teeth, and narrower spacing.
Bimetal blades have a body of spring steel, and teeth of harder steel.
Carbide TOOTH blades will go through screws and sheet metal. Maybe the best blade for metal, but not for wood.
Instead of scrapers, maybe just use dull worn out blades.
Storage: Turn the blade backwards (to protect the blade).
Dope shit
That's what he said.
Thank you. The summary helps to reinforce the information.
Saved me watching the remaining 9 minutes only to find no new info. You should provide this service to all other UA-cam videos / tv / radio / the government. Cheers dude!
take the blade off to store / take the bit out of the drill to store
Thanks for listing a good Radial Arm saw blade supplier. Finding negative angle blades are real tough when hook angles are hardly listed on the labels of a lot of chain store blades. Have been using a radial arm saw for almost 60 years and currently have a rebuilt 1958 Craftsman with new bearings and 220 volt wired, although used mostly for plain cross cutting or angle cuts. Got my first table saw about 25 years ago, so it is the ripping tool now, but used to do everything on the radial arm.
On the Multi-tool, really good tip on the sanding disc reuse. Stores are slowly phasing out multi-tool sanding pads, with some selling perforated detail sander sheets that can be torn down to multi-tool size. At $1.20 a sheet and throwing away half the sheet, that is not a bargain. I, too, use it mostly for corners and around pegs (cup racks, etc.) and mostly rough sanding with a sanding block touch up.
Great tips. Thanks. I didn’t find a good use for the larger sanding triangle either, but the small finger is essential for sanding narrow epoxy spots when building wood epoxy boats. If I try to do it by hand, I have the tendency to round the area. The finger attachment allows me to keep crisper edges and flat bottoms. I always remove the blades for storage, mainly because the tub I keep it in is too short for the tool plus blade.
Okay. I thought I would at least learn a little... I learned a lot! I've been using this tool for years and 10 minutes of watching this video has completely changed how I'll use it in the future. Thank you very, very much. Great video!
FYI, I have found an oscillating tool with the scraper blade to be the best way to remove that white roof sealer from RVs with metal roofs.
If whatever you're scraping is coming off easy, it's faster to scrape it by hand but if it's something that's not wanting to let go, multitool is way faster.
This is probably the most useful DIY video I have yet seen on UA-cam, opening my eyes to how to properly use one of the most useful powertools you can get. 👍
Observation: the fine pigtails caused by the narrow range of motion are lessened by a longer tool blade. So if you want to finish sand in a tight corner, take a worn blade, rivet an extension to it, and attach your sandpaper to the extension. That's my theory, going to by my first OMT tomorrow! Great video!
How’d that go
What a fantastic video. After watching your demonstrations, I think back to all of the times I was using the wrong tool for the job as my multi tool just sat buried in my box. Thank you sir.
Great video! I have a very inexpensive and basic oscillating tool, which is great for my needs as I don't use it very frequently. As a result, I've never taken the time to learn its finer points. But this video really filled in the gaps, and now maybe I'll pull it out of the drawer more often. Thanks for making this.
That disclaimer at the beginning was for real! Today I learned a thing or two from a Red Wings fan about one of my favorite tools. Thank you, sir!
I really love how concise you are.
Thank you for making content!
Most if this stuff you discover after enough personal usage, but.....
The tip about the carbide tip and the drywall and construction screws IS PRICELESS.
Those two materials will COMPLETELY DESTROY A STANDARD BLADE IN LESS THAN A SECOND.
Just a couple of "oscillations" against those materials and your blade is relegated to becoming a "scraper" blade, and that's an expensive scraper blade!
Great tip!
I learned just now to turn my blade backwards 🤦🏻♂️…you’re the first content creator I’ve heard say this,and I’m not joking!Youre definitely my favorite cause you have taught me more than any one of these guys and I just started watching you last night.Thanks brother!
The other thing I've learned about these is that the blades are often not very good about clearing chips due to the short strokes. If you have to make a narrow cut, they cut much faster if you move the saw side to side gently as you cut.
@@bluecar5556 Yes, but variety is the spice of life...
Thanks for the link to the big set of blades, I really like that they come with a case!
I tend to only use my multi tool to sand in spots because sanding killed my first multi tool by vibrating the switch apart. I also tend to remove the blade on my tool for storage because most times I will be doing something different with it next time I use it, I had a Rockwell years ago that came with a soft bag and that bag is great.
Thanks for the sandpaper tip, because I don't sand a lot that tip will fit my work flow better than buying precut sandpaper.
I've wanted one of these tools for a while now. I'm glad I watched this video before getting my hands on one, and possibly damaging it, or whatever I might use it on.
You do a great job on these videos, and I, for one, really appreciate the time, effort, and information you put into them. Thank you.👍
Thanks Stumpy, I learn something every time I watch your videos. I also got some good ideas from your commenters. (Please) Keep them coming.
Side note on the sander head, low and slow. I’ve seen the pad melt in seconds on the high setting. Good vid as always.
I've been using my oscillator to clean out the left over mortar after I use my grinder on repoint jobs. I have found that all the grout grinders are very brittle and break easy but the hardened multi material blades are pretty good at getting the surface clean
Regarding sanding: I agree that the hook & loop type sanding pads aren’t the best match for these tools. However, I’ve had very good luck attaching PSA backed sandpaper to one side of a scraper blade and using that in hard to reach places with great success. I highly recommend keeping that one in your arsenal of sanding tools.
This video lived up to its billing! Bought mine to cut door trim for vinyl tile installation, but never realized all the uses it had. Great video!
Some really great tips here, thank you! For me, mine has proved it's worth when I had leaks under two of my sinks, saturating the cheap, unsealed particle board cabinet and dishing the bottom (in one case, almost 5 inches (!)). I was able to use the tool to remove the bottoms, and then replace them with clear coated Baltic Birch plywood (ah, memories). In the tight areas, the oscillating tool made removal a quick and easy process.
The sanding attachment has been invaluable for me doing bodywork on a van - sanding smooth the body-filler I use after I've cleaned up rust with an angle-grinder. I expect I'll also use it when doing some plasterwork in the near future.
I can't see a scenario where I'd want to use it for wood, but you never know...
The brazed carbide tipped, off brand blades are actually wicked good for metal cutoff and inexpensive compared to a Dremel or Bosch or Milwaukee. I do lots of metal - 304 stainless, 1018 steel, etc. and even though they are off brand (like harbor freight or Bauer) they still work wicked well.
Usually faster for doing cutoffs than my bandsaw and great because you don't have to completely disassemble things in order to get it to the bandsaw or mill.
Also, take off the blade to store it?
What an excellent video! This is probably my most overlooked power tool, and one with the most untapped potential! Thank you!
Good tips, that has always been my number 1 complaint about this tool, it seems like my blades are done after a single cut, and it got ridiculous how fast I was going through expensive blades. I'll try out some of these tips to make my blades last longer.
There’s dozens of sellers on Amazon that sells the blades for $1 per blade or less. Well worth it to buy the multipacks.
Damn. I didn't think og that. Oh and I bought mine on a extension cord. Wish I hadn"t.
Thank you so much sir! I have had one of these for years, and it spends most of its time on the shelf. I’m hoping your tips and tricks will unleash it to its full potential.
When hitting the mark is important, I score a line with a knife or chisel. The blade is less apt to jump out of the groove I made.
I don't own this tool but stayed for the interesting delivery and versatility of this tool. Nice job.
I'd love to see a buyer's guide to oscillating tools :)
check the channel "Project Farm", he has a great testing video
There are a ton of them out there. I know The Honest Carpenter did one a while back
It's easy.
If you NEED the BEST, then Fein is the ONLY way to go. (Not battery powered, but corded power.)
All the rest are still good and do mostly the same thing, but just not heavy duty like the Fein.
Most people using for "household" uses don't need the quality of the more expensive Fein.
As the Honda ad used to say: "Why buy something "like" a Honda when you could just buy a Honda?"
Fein is a better quality and thus more expensive, but a similar concept to the Honda ad.
Well done video. Thank you. I picked my tool up to cut door trim and such for flooring installation and it worked brilliantly. I've also used it to refurbish a seriously abused cast iron pan and to cut back a stone fireplace hearth. The cast iron pan was almost a fun job. The hearth job was thankless but fortunately the circle carbide blade was far faster than any other tool I threw at it. I see people still fumbling away with more conventional tools that this beast can do quickly and with a bit of finesse.
Thanks again for a great video.
Abrasive blades are also perfect for plaster walls. They won't crack the walls and they don't create as much dust as a Dremel or angle grinder.
After watching this, I went and bought me one. Don’t know what I’ll use it for right now but I have a lot of projects that it’ll come in handy for! Thanks for such an interesting and informative video about this tool.
The main way I use sanding attachments is for enlarging holes in walls. When you need to take off
I have found the sanding attachment great for precise removal of paint. For example- in a factory painted plywood panel where I needed to remove a patch of paint to get a gluing surface without scratching the surrounding painted area.
I have used an oscillating saw for a couple of years but never really got into how to maximise it's potential, thank you for your clear, understandable segment.
And I would see pt 2 if it's around ✋
I just recently bought the makita cordless. For a large project.
I stumbled on to this video...glad I did...all the things Not to do, I did.
It cost me a blade, fuel and time.
Since then I have purchased a few more different types of blades.
And with the links..odds are I'll be getting a set.
SUPER informative. I've only been using multi-tools for about 5 years. Started with a cheap Harbor Freight, then realized what a game changer they are. I then upgraded to a Ryobi cordless. I keep the Harby around and still use it quite often. GREAT deal on those blades too. THANKS!!
I have been using Ridge Carbide blades for last 30 years they are absolutely the best!!
Thank you for this well-produced, excellent video! This video provided me a heck of a lot more information about which oscillating blade to pick for which job. Some of your information contradicts what I've seen on other videos, but I feel very confident that you have it right because the information makes perfect sense.
Something I learned through my own use of oscillating tools is a back-and-forth motion as if you are sawing into the material makes for faster cuts and clears the blade of dust more readily.
Thank you for showing some lesser known facts/uses of these tools.
Some of them I found out on my own by simply experimenting, but others were new to me.
I've got one of these oscillating multitools last year, when I started repairing/upcycling a lot of my old furniture.
Since I was/am on a budget, I couldn't afford to by several different and task specific powertools that I would have needed, so I decided to buy a multitool.
And what can I say?
I love the versatility of that thing. I even use the sanding head (extensively 😅) for stripping paint/varnish quickly.
That multitool was of a really cheap variety, but it helped me so much and is working exceptionally well for a tool that has been cheaply mass produced. The only gripe I have with it is, that the mechanism to attach the blades (the pattern of the holes) is "one of a kind" and it is difficult to get new or a variety of blades, let alone better quality blades that fit.
But that is not a fault of the kind of tool, but simply due to the cheap manufacturing.
I would 100% buy an oscillating multitool again - better quality and a few more blades - now that I have worked with one and have benefitted from the versatility.
Here in Mid 2024 I finally purchased an oscillating tool. I chose the Makita brushless with AVT. I generally favor Makita but a couple of comparison videos showed it was the superior tool.
I don’t know how I went this long without it. It’s an amazing addition to the box and the blades available are fantastic.
Good information! Thank you! I really like the reusing the oscillating tool sanding pads. By the way, I also use and reuse those on a piece of PVC for sanding inside curves and inside holes. I have been known to cut pieces off of them for small area sanding as well. I reuse whenever possible. I have even cut and reused old sanding pads to clean off battery terminals on my car and lawn tractor. Curl it up and sand the inside of the clamps.