Thank you for the tutorial. I have the exact same motor on my Boston Whaler 17. I'm finally learning how to do the full service stuff like, oil change, spark plugs, water fuel separator, oil and gas filter. But, what you did I'm still a little hesitant, but you made look manageable. Last year, I paid the mechanic to change my impeller, next year I hope to change it myself. The money you save doing it yourself is A LOT! Again, thank you for the video, that was the best video on how to do it yourself.
Your Welcome Alan! Thanks for the feedback! You do save a lot of $ but you have peace of mind that you did it yourself and with that experience, more confidence is gained on the water IMO. Good luck with it and please throw a comment next year after you change yours!
Excellent video! Thanks so much for pointing out the speedo tube and potential difficulty. Nice technique using the 4 bolts on the lower unit as jacking bolts. Well done !
Your video is excellent. Great job and thanks for the effort. I have a 2019 F40LA and your video is a perfect match for the job. Thanks so much for posting. Your video showed me the steps referenced in the service manual for a lower HP motor. You did the job perfectly. The manual noted Loctite 572 for the water pump bolts and lower unit bolts. Yamaha recommends the LT 572 instead of grease. But grease is fine to use. Thanks again and great work!!
Thanks for the comment Byron. I'm surprised the manual (which I don't have) calls for LT 572. I had to look it up but LT 572 is for setting and sealing course pipe and bolt threads. Even if I had known this I still would not have used it. The impeller is due in another 30 or so hrs, maybe I'll do a video on how well the grease held up. Thanks again.
@@astrodiver1 I contacted Yamaha and they recommend it because it is thread sealant and they said it also prevents loosening due to vibration (watertight and secure seal). LT 572 is a thread sealant and their torque specs. call for it via a wet torque. My motor is 30 lbs.-ft. for the M10 bolts and 13 lbs.-ft. for the water pump bolts, Then 22lbs.-ft for that long hidden M8 bolt and no LT 572 for the anode bolt. I use a digital torque wrench and torque to spec. That is why I use it. Yamaha uses dissimilar metals and that LT 572 prevents galvanic corrosion and allows the bolts to be removed easily for the next service. I can send you my motor's service manual if you like (just send me an Email). Some of the older models' service manuals are on the NET and every manual calls for LT 572. Dealers do not use it because it is expensive. Grease works and if used, the torque specs. need to be reduced by 20%. A lot of saltwater users do not use LT572 because they do not want to clean it off the threads (reacts with salt to restrict corrosion and comes out as gunk over the bolt threads). The also cite a Yamaha WR2 grease for the splines and note not to lube the top to avoid a potential hydro lock.
Went to a Yamaha dealer/ Marina they didn't have 572. I told the guy you mean to tell me none of your mechanics use it? It specifies it when doing Yamaha impellers. He just said don't do me like that. This marina is on salt water.
@@scottroach3233 They don't use it because it costs them money. They grease the bolts and put them in. Some dealers use blue Locktite. Call Yamaha customer service and they will tell you the OEM requirement is Locktite 572. You need to buy from McMaster Karr or Fastenal. It is expensive ($30). But one tube will last you a long time. Bolts will never seize and will not break when you remove after torqueing to spec. No galvanic corrosion with the proper sealant. I bought my motor's service manual and follow it. The dealerb you talked to just uses a cheaper substitute.
good video mate the housing probably doesnt need to much torque when tightenng up and dontbe stingy with the grease never to much grease just dont get any on top of the drive shaft or youll never get it back in .
Great video. We replaced the water impeller on our F70LA and have a leak coming out of the impeller (we think) we thought maybe a gasket or o-ring missing but it appears there aren’t any ? Maybe the housing is warped so weird b/c it never leaked before! Perplexing
I would say it's most likely the grommet/ o-ring for the output of the pump housing @11:05 or the metal cup is very worn or possibly the base gasket is torn or missing.
@@astrodiver1 ya after I typed it I clued in. I have all bolts removed and I can’t get the lower to separate. Mines a 35 hp tiller so I also have the shift linkage disconnected. Won’t budge. Using a deadblow mallet and it won’t move.
I've been putting off this job for the last 2 seasons (just try to avoid extended idling). But now, I feel empowered to get this done, thanks to your video. Question, are you using regular grease on the bolts or anti-seize compound? Thanks!
There didn't look like there was a plastic collar with the thin metal casing above the impeller. It seems people struggle getting this part up. Hopefully this makes sense. Can you confirm these two items are not above the impeller?
My F75 leaks water from just a few inches above the water pump. I get a weak stream of water out the top tell tale. Could the water pickup tube be not connecting?
I don't know what to say about the water leak and the F75 is a new engine. I never had one apart but if the tell-tale is weak and their is nothing blocking the water intake, then it has to come apart for at least an impeller change.
I have the same Bennington it has that same single axle trailer. It seems it should have another axle. What do you think? Have you had any problems with it?
Scott, the trailer is 10 years old now and tows well and is very maneuverable at the ramp. Without looking it up the boat weighs ~ 2200Lbs. wet and my 1500 doesn't notice it until about 60 mph. My average tow is around 100 miles round-trip but I have towed as many as 400. The wide tires wear unevenly and scallop and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. ( the last time I bought the tires/rims/hub+bearings all combined for ~$200 and replaced all the spindle components at once. I am getting some rust on the springs from salt water but that's to be expected. I always toss an older tire in the bed as a spare but so far have not had to use it.
Great video, this is on my todo list!
This is great. I'm changing the water pump on my first boat in two days. Thanks for shooting and posting your video.
Really appreciate you making this video. Saves me a LOT of money. Taking it to a Yamaha dealer gets expensive VERY fast.
Great job and thanks again.
Very welcome!
Thanks seeing all the blunders you made made me sharper when I do mine .
Right on man!
Great video very informative
Thank you for the tutorial. I have the exact same motor on my Boston Whaler 17. I'm finally learning how to do the full service stuff like, oil change, spark plugs, water fuel separator, oil and gas filter. But, what you did I'm still a little hesitant, but you made look manageable. Last year, I paid the mechanic to change my impeller, next year I hope to change it myself. The money you save doing it yourself is A LOT! Again, thank you for the video, that was the best video on how to do it yourself.
Your Welcome Alan! Thanks for the feedback!
You do save a lot of $ but you have peace of mind that you did it yourself and with that experience, more confidence is gained on the water IMO. Good luck with it and please throw a comment next year after you change yours!
Wish I would have watched this video first...Best I've seen so far. Thanks!
Thanks! I hope your job went easy! I appreciate the feedback and the Sub!
Very good video! I'm going to replace the water pump impeller on my 70hp today.
Thanks Donnie. Hope it went well.
One of the best videos I’ve seen on UA-cam period! Good job
Thank you Keith much appreciated! A Like on the video would be great. Apparently 20% of viewers think it sucks. Darn logistics.
Thanks! Great presentation and very thorough! Loved it! Now I’m ready!
very nice video! i did the impeller changes on my small merc 9.9hp. soon i will do it on my f60. thanks for the details in the video
Your welcome.
Excellent video! Thanks so much for pointing out the speedo tube and potential difficulty. Nice technique using the 4 bolts on the lower unit as jacking bolts. Well done !
Thanks Mark! Appreciated.
I like your video, you done very well, your motor sounds very good, and your tell tale has very strong water pressure! 👍
Your video is excellent. Great job and thanks for the effort. I have a 2019 F40LA and your video is a perfect match for the job. Thanks so much for posting. Your video showed me the steps referenced in the service manual for a lower HP motor. You did the job perfectly. The manual noted Loctite 572 for the water pump bolts and lower unit bolts. Yamaha recommends the LT 572 instead of grease. But grease is fine to use. Thanks again and great work!!
Thanks for the comment Byron. I'm surprised the manual (which I don't have) calls for LT 572. I had to look it up but LT 572 is for setting and sealing
course pipe and bolt threads. Even if I had known this I still would not have used it. The impeller is due in another 30 or so hrs, maybe I'll do a video on how well the grease held up. Thanks again.
@@astrodiver1 I contacted Yamaha and they recommend it because it is thread sealant and they said it also prevents loosening due to vibration (watertight and secure seal). LT 572 is a thread sealant and their torque specs. call for it via a wet torque. My motor is 30 lbs.-ft. for the M10 bolts and 13 lbs.-ft. for the water pump bolts, Then 22lbs.-ft for that long hidden M8 bolt and no LT 572 for the anode bolt. I use a digital torque wrench and torque to spec. That is why I use it. Yamaha uses dissimilar metals and that LT 572 prevents galvanic corrosion and allows the bolts to be removed easily for the next service. I can send you my motor's service manual if you like (just send me an Email). Some of the older models' service manuals are on the NET and every manual calls for LT 572. Dealers do not use it because it is expensive. Grease works and if used, the torque specs. need to be reduced by 20%. A lot of saltwater users do not use LT572 because they do not want to clean it off the threads (reacts with salt to restrict corrosion and comes out as gunk over the bolt threads). The also cite a Yamaha WR2 grease for the splines and note not to lube the top to avoid a potential hydro lock.
Went to a Yamaha dealer/ Marina they didn't have 572. I told the guy you mean to tell me none of your mechanics use it? It specifies it when doing Yamaha impellers. He just said don't do me like that. This marina is on salt water.
@@scottroach3233 They don't use it because it costs them money. They grease the bolts and put them in. Some dealers use blue Locktite. Call Yamaha customer service and they will tell you the OEM requirement is Locktite 572. You need to buy from McMaster Karr or Fastenal. It is expensive ($30). But one tube will last you a long time. Bolts will never seize and will not break when you remove after torqueing to spec. No galvanic corrosion with the proper sealant. I bought my motor's service manual and follow it. The dealerb you talked to just uses a cheaper substitute.
Thanks for posting! It was very helpful. I am about to tackle mine 🤞🏼
Great video , just about to replace the pump on my 80hp , so good to see how it's done. Cheers !!!
Great video, thanks for all the good info.
Thanks for the video, as I plan on tackling this myself in the next few days on the same motor.
If you get a chance let us know how it went!
Thanks. Just what I needed.
Fantastic video, very helpfull, next time I'll do it myself thanks to you
good video mate the housing probably doesnt need to much torque when tightenng up and dontbe stingy with the grease never to much grease just dont get any on top of the drive shaft or youll never get it back in .
Great Video , Thx 🍻
Funny how the kit will come with bolts, but not a housing gasket .
I believe the kit includes the housing gasket. I probably used it on the previous impeller change.
Great video!
Super video!! Thanks!! From Bjorn:-)
Thank You Sir. 🇺🇸
Thank you very much for this video
You are very welcome C. Thank you for the feedback.
Good info, thx.
Great video. We replaced the water impeller on our F70LA and have a leak coming out of the impeller (we think) we thought maybe a gasket or o-ring missing but it appears there aren’t any ? Maybe the housing is warped so weird b/c it never leaked before! Perplexing
I would say it's most likely the grommet/ o-ring for the output of the pump housing @11:05 or the metal cup is very worn or possibly the base gasket is torn or missing.
Thank you. Great video.
Your welcome. The upper hose attachment is for flushing the engine. I use the muffs because that's where the water pump pulls from.
@@astrodiver1 ya after I typed it I clued in. I have all bolts removed and I can’t get the lower to separate. Mines a 35 hp tiller so I also have the shift linkage disconnected. Won’t budge. Using a deadblow mallet and it won’t move.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks Richard.
@@astrodiver1 had to hit the starter to turn the head to fit in the drive shaft.
Merci
I've been putting off this job for the last 2 seasons (just try to avoid extended idling). But now, I feel empowered to get this done, thanks to your video. Question, are you using regular grease on the bolts or anti-seize compound? Thanks!
Thanks Dan. I just use regular grease. The engine spends 80% of its time in fresh water, FWIW.
@@astrodiver1 Mine is in fresh water 100%, so I should be good with regular grease. Thanks again!
There didn't look like there was a plastic collar with the thin metal casing above the impeller. It seems people struggle getting this part up. Hopefully this makes sense. Can you confirm these two items are not above the impeller?
what kind of grease do you usually use?
I just bought this same motor brand new
I got so lucky @8:17 ..
My F75 leaks water from just a few inches above the water pump. I get a weak stream of water out the top tell tale. Could the water pickup tube be not connecting?
I don't know what to say about the water leak and the F75 is a new engine. I never had one apart but if the tell-tale is weak and their is nothing blocking the water intake, then it has to come apart for at least an impeller change.
I have the same Bennington it has that same single axle trailer. It seems it should have another axle. What do you think? Have you had any problems with it?
Scott, the trailer is 10 years old now and tows well and is very maneuverable at the ramp. Without looking it up the boat weighs ~ 2200Lbs. wet and my 1500 doesn't notice it until about 60 mph. My average tow is around 100 miles round-trip but I have towed as many as 400. The wide tires wear unevenly and scallop and I'm on my 3rd set of tires. ( the last time I bought the tires/rims/hub+bearings all combined for ~$200 and replaced all the spindle components at once. I am getting some rust on the springs from salt water but that's to be expected. I always toss an older tire in the bed as a spare but so far have not had to use it.
@@astrodiver1 I've only pulled it across state 1 time but do get the same tire wear. It's not fun pulling it far with a 3rd gen Tacoma
how many hours u have changed?
100, 220, and 395 hrs. The boat is mostly in fresh water.
How much does the foot weigh....
~ 10kg/25lbs.