Fixing Subwoofer Buzz for $10 or less!!!
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- OK, it really depends on the subwoofer and the size and number of capacitors you need to make the repair, BUT I was able to fix my $300 subwoofer for appx $4 in parts. It went from being a useless piece of trash to perfection in about an hour.
In this video, I show you one of the most common causes of the irritating buzz or hum you get in a subwoofer as it ages. The capacitors in the circuitry that are responsible for filtering that hum out start to go bad over time. If you are handy with a soldering iron, or know a friend that is, then the fix can be a really cheap one. Hopefully this works for you and you are able to get something out of it. Let me know in the comments whether you have experienced this and tried the repair, and how it came out. This won't fix all the buzzing issues, but it can be the fix for a surprising number of them.
These caps are not filled with oil !!! They have electrolyte between the plates which dries out and sometimes causes the case to expand. This increases ESR and reduces the capacitance of the capacitor. Always re solder the joints with solder using an 80 to 100 watt soldering iron and try walking the component off the board by heating one side at a time. Then use Solder wick and a soldering iron to clean the solder lands before re- soldering new components onto PCB.Replace them and ensure capacitor is correctly anchored with neutral cure sealant to help minimise movement as the sub woofer will cause a mechanical oscillation of the capacitor at high SPL / volume levels.The long lead is usually the positive lead too. Good job Floyd.You just saved yourself a couple of hundred dollars at least as well as reducing down time and freight costs and further handling damage. 🙂
This is the best video to watch to replace the subs capacitors,I was able to change my successfully,thanks
I loved how you spoke about the components! Even an electronics challenged person such as myself understood!
I can canoe.
Many thanks for your video. I was going to send my woofer into repair but after watching your video I'll be giving it a go myself. Thanks again for your video.
Yes!!! Had a buzzing sub for years, stopped using it and was shopping for a replacement. Thanks to you, my system is back in action for $7!!!
Sweet! I'm still enjoying this sub too. The repair is still working well, which I'm really happy about because I love this little sub and don't want to spend a ton of money trying to replace it.
Thanks for posting this, it was really helpful to me!
Sir, thank you so much for this amazing video, you just gave me hope that my two Subwoofers can get fixed, thank you for the detailed explanation, I'm optimistic now 🙂👌👌🔊🔊
Thanks, I think you solved my problem. It's worth checking to see!
Thank you sir, for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Very helpful 🤙🤙
1 single video and loved your style.
Thanks for posting this! I inherited a mirage speaker system with a sub. I thought the sub was toast. Sounds just like yours does here. I"ll be ordering capacitors and fixing it up. Cheers!
That may be why you inherited the speaker system. If replacing the caps does the trick, someone may be sad they got rid of them. If the speakers are in good shape, they really do sound fantastic.
Awesome stuff. Thank you for the knowledge!!
You sir are a good teacher! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video, im gonna try fix mine.
Awesome; Informative with great side tips along the way. Also thanks to some commenters in this thread for additional advice. I'm giving it a shot with my Infinity HTS-10.
That was a really well done nuts and bolts down to earth example of how to explain the basic steps of changing a capacitor. Really enjoyed watching the entire video and I will be trying this myself. I ordered a inline tester so I can get a better idea of which one might be bad by the 10% of capacitance test ... anyway. Thanks for posting, Great job!
I was wondering the same thing about my Tannoy SFX subwoofer giving me the buzz. I'll check the capacitors for sure. Thanks 👍
Wow just the info i was looking for thank you sir.
Your video helped me greatly. I put in the new capacitors, and no buzz. Also no explosion 💥 😉. THANKS!
Thanks so much! Just bought the same sub from the thrift store today. Now I can fix it :)!
Hopefully the fix went well. These are really good subs. If I ever see another, you bet I'm buying it!
Thanks, 2 capacitors 50V 3300 uF and my DJMIX2000 subwoofer is back in service. Thank You
Nice fix!
Thanks a lot,I followed your video and ordered the two capacitors and fixed my infinity sub,it sounds great thanks.
That's excellent! And that's a lot of money in your pocket too. You should go have a nice dinner tonight!
Floyd Nash will do,sir,listening to some good country music through the sub and enjoying the sound,thanks again,going out for dinner soon lol.
Great fix! Thank you for the video. Sometime that pesky glue is responsible for the trouble. Specially the brown type of glue. As it age and dry, it become conductive and can cause overheating and parts fails. I recommend to completely remove it, specially if it touches the wires or solder points of electronic parts. Once removed, you can than put a new dab of glue in a non-electrical area. Usually it’s ok to replace the caps with the same voltage rating but sometimes manufacturers cut corners to lower costs. If the space allow, higher voltage rating caps would add a safety margin. It’s a shame how many easily fixable electronic gear get discarded because of planned obsolescence. Great work!
I recommend using Amazing Goop as a replacement glue. It has a high temperature rating, it holds well and if you ever need to remove it, it usually pulls away with a yank from needle nose pliers.
My old Sunfire Super junior is doing the same thing. I just ordered the capacitor kit from EBay. Very informative. Great vid.
I hope it works. Mine has been fine ever since my fix. Using it right now rewatching some old Star Wars movies
thank you so much ,, i,m going in ..
Thanks for the video! Very useful info. Hope it works for me.
Awesome video man thanks
Excellent video.
I would cut the leads of the capacitors in stead of breaking them by wiggling. While wiggling you could tear of the trace on the pcb. This is especially a risk if the pcb has got even mild heat damage.
On radial capacitors the plus usually has the longer lead. Just a fun fact.
agreed that cutting is better but for through-hole connections i really don't think that's an issue worth worrying about. surface-mount for sure, i'd recommend never doing that
Thank-you, my Jensen X-165 sub woofer has just developed the buzz, has been off for 3 months, so will check the caps.
Good luck! Hope it's an easy fix
Excellent job👍
I've had a Klipsch 12" subwoofer for 20 years. All of a sudden it makes this awful buzzing squeeling sound. I will try this. thx!
Thank you so much for this post.
Thanks for the video and info. Unfortunately this afternoon I brought my Canton AS85 sub to an audio shop for an estimate of repair....they only charge if repair is required. This is cheaper than buying a new sub. Anyway, next time I'll try your technique.
Great video Sir keep up the good work 👍 🙏
thank you worked for me.
Good one mate!!
I had this exact problem, and was just about to give up on my sub when I saw your video. Got the old caps off (in order to read them) and am now awaiting the new ones in the mail. Hope it works out!
Success! The caps arrived yesterday and I had it fixed by dinner! Thanks!
Awesome, thanks so much
I clean my solder iron tip by pulling it across a wet sponge before I solder and after soldering is finished when it’s going to be put away, then it will be ready for a quick wet sponge drag next time I need it.
I thought my sub was toast! Watched this video and got it back in fine working order. Excellent video. Thank you!
Glad this could help someone. I hope the capacitors were easier to get out than mine. That glue on mine made them a royal mess to extract. It was worth it though. It's still working perfectly.
Thanks man
Great video! Time to break out my Disston cordless soldering gun...really miss Radio Shack, I could have just Driven over to pick up the capacitors instead of waiting for shipping
I miss Radio Shack too. I used to go there for all kinds of things when I was younger. I made an LED display for my car radio with all parts, including IC chips, that I got right at my local Radio Shack. If I buy online I prefer to use Mouser or Digikey for parts, but hate paying $8 shipping for an 84 cent part. I end up going to Amazon where some of the parts can be questionable quality.
I've got Energy S8.3 with the exact same problem. The funny thing is, that the build looks nearly identical on the inside (>95%), they're clearly from the same factory. I already ordered new caps before watching your video but thanks anyway for uploading this!
New caps fixed the issue! I replaced the stock ones with 85 °C with 105 °C. I used a flathead screwdriver to break the epoxy/glue and get them loose before de soldering.
Thank you
Obrigado... say thanks..
Thanks
BRILLIANT!!
Wow thanks
Thanks You
I have my woofer buzzing the same way. that is great
For those don’t have the exact same woofer don’t go automatically change the 100v 470uf. You need to look at those caps near the power source. Mine is Infinity Modulus and came with 200v 680uf. I first changed the 100v 470uf that I found and it didn’t fix it until I looked at the circuit more carefully and changed the 200v 680uf. And that fixed the problem.
Good point. Don't just randomly start replacing capacitors. It's usually the larger ones near where the cord comes into the unit. It can be different sizes or specs depending on the manufacturer and rating of the sub. Look for obvious damage first as well.
If you want a more empirical method to detecting bad capacitors, you can use an ESR meter to test each capacitor while still soldered on the board! I know the point of the video is to do the repair for less than $10, but sometimes it's not so clear which capacitors are bad. Still a very good video and thanks for sharing!
I'm glad for you, Floyd. My Kenwood HTsubwoofer had possibly a different failure, the low-pass just wouldn't work and crunched out under 200HZ or wherever.. but I think it was the 1st (or is it 2nd, idk) transistor had s=corroded between two of its leads onto the traces, which had kind of a brown flux crap buildup shorting the board right there? possibility? Thanks again, you're actually pretty great and gonzo style and that's the way.
of course, one symptom may lead to up to ten others with a board.
It is good idea to clean around the capacitors because this stuff with time it will dry up and become conducive. When this stuff start to change color from white to brown i start to get worried
My subwoofer was making a pulsing humming noise. I switched out the subwoofer Cable and that fixed the problem. I would try this first.
That's not a bad idea, but even before that, just unplug the cable. If you still have a buzz when the only thing plugged in is power, then it's not a cable issue.
My woofer makes a horribly loud and erratic sound when I turn it on. Volume down doesn't change a thing. Do you think it might also be the case? I can't check it now, but your video gives me a hope! Thanks!
An erratic sound doesn't sound like capacitor issue. That could be a volume control knob or some other adjustment knob. Unplug everything from it except power, turn it on. If you hear humming, that could be power supply, which could be a capacitor issue. If it's something else, like a scratchy sound, then it's probably something else.
Usefull
My sb150 woofers seems to pair with the sound bar, but there is no bass coming out of the woofer. Have you seen an issue like mine? Many thanks in advance.
The glue is to prevent those big caps to vibrate and break loose after some time of using the sub. It’s a good idea to glue them up again after the repair.
When soldering the leads, the solder should flow all the way through the hole in the PCB to the other side to make a good mechanical connection. Therefore you should hold your soldering iron a bit longer to the leads (1 or 2 seconds).
It was driving me nuts so I just placed a screw touching both red and white RCAs plus the metal plate, hum went away. I tried to open it up but it doesn't look like I can without damaging it.
You made a huge mistake in not bonding those new caps down to the board. The subwoofer will generate a lot of vibration which causes the capacitor to move slightly, especially when it is at a resonant point. The capacitors have a lot of mass so the stresses are all on the leads and solder joint. Over time, it would completely shear the leads right off or cause the solder joint to fail. I've seen it happen and that is why they put the glue to prevent the capacitors from deflecting and breaking off the leads. You can use hot glue or epoxy to help prevent that type of damage.
That makes total sense. With the small cost of the capacitors, and considering I have spares I think I'll be ok. I would rather replace them than remove that glue any day. It was a giant pain to remove.
@@FloydNashFixItDad It would take a while, but the effects could be a lot worse than just having a 60 hz hum. If the two capacitor are not in parallel, there would be no filtering in the lines at all if the solder joint or leads are broken. The smaller caps are less critical since it has less mass, but the larger ones are prone to this type of failure, especially in a vibration rich environment like a subwoofer.
Its relatively easy to apply some hot glue to hold the caps down since you already soldered it down. The work is really to open up the speakers again. The hot glue you are using is much easier to remove. Next time if you have glue on the caps, use a hot air source like a rework station instead of the soldering iron, it softens the glue and makes it much easier to remove. You just use a sharp tweezer and yank the glue off in chunks. The rework stations are perfect since you can control the air volume and limit the heat to local areas. They are relatively cheap and its great for shrink heat tubing.
@@ahndeux I was really hoping someone would talk about this in a comment. :-) I'm going to do mine as well and I'm sure it has the same glue on it. I'll try the rework station and see how it goes. Thanks for explaining this!
He needs some flush cutters.
@@richardsparks9904 And a sponge for the solder tip. Xacto blades are not meant to clean solder tips. LOL.
I think he work hardened the solder joint just going back and forth on the wire to break it off. At the minimum, he should remelt the solder afterwards to relieve the stress on that solder joint. Solder joints don't last forever. There is a finite number of thermal cycling which is worse if the temperature swings are higher. The newer "lead free" ROHS solder is worse because its stiffer and flows at a higher temperature, so they fail quicker than the older 60/40 tin lead solder. A lot of modern electronics fail much quicker than older electronics for that reason.
Mr. Nash...say, i'm having the same issue a powered sub. It only happens when turned on and then, goes away with the buzz fading out within 2 to 3 minutes. Is this a capacitor that might need changing?
By the way thank you for taking the time to make this video. Enjoyed.
It's very possible that is exactly what is happening. Unless a capacitor blows up, they can indeed go bad over a period of time. My sub started out the same way, with a small buzz on startup that went away quickly, but eventually just never went away and started getting worse pretty rapidly. If they aren't glued down like mine, they are very easy to replace.
I have taken my Mirage apart! And I did not take any pictures to reassemble it! Is there a way you can send me a short video of the whole thing.
While you're there and have removed big caps, better scrape all the browning goo out. It's usually a glue that goes conductive when it ages.
I had to use the soldering iron to burn it off just to remove the cap. Scraping this is out of the question without a hammer and chisel. It sucked!
I found using a Dremel tool to cut the epoxy away from the pcb works quickly. Just avoid breathing the dust.
Oh, that's a really good idea. I didn't think of using my dremel
What attachment do you use? Just a cutting wheel? Sanding drum? Stainless bristles? Thanks
Great video. I have Definitive Prosub 1000, I plug only the power wire in and it slowly starts humming. It’s not very loud but just enough that you hear it. The sub still works great except for the hum. Does this loud like the capacitors? And on my capacitors they show (M)85°C KL5 - - Neg how can I find the right ones or do you know what ones they are ? I can’t seem to find them. Thank you very much
There should be additional markings on the capacitor that show a voltage and rating, usually listed as uF. If you hear a hum then it's potentially power supply, and potentially those filter capacitors. It can also be the power coming into the house. You can get surge strips designed for audio equipment, or hum eliminators that act as ground loop isolators, that will also have filter capacitors in them to help filter out a good part of that 50 or 60 cycle hum, so that may be an option for you to try as well. If it's not enough to bother you, I don't know that I would try messing with anything right now either.
Great video, I have a Velodynr SPL 1500w 750w RMS it has 6 mid size capacitors the strip e on each cap are pointed different directions looks mfg done ?
That's entirely possible. They could be connecting to the legs of 2 different circuits or set of traces on the board. Sometimes they are simply laid out in whatever manner would make it easiest to fit the components.
Thank you, Very nice very informative. However, I am really confused. I have the same issue with the Active Subwoofer. Nothing is connected to it, only power cable and as soon as I turn on the hum starts. But, non of the capacitors popped. My first thought was the capacitors. However, all the small and big capacitors are flat and look like okay. Can a capacitor be faulty even without popping?
Yes, they sure can. They don't have to physically show signs of failure to be bad unfortunately. It's easier to tell for sure when you do see external evidence.
I was wondering why I have oil on my amplifier plate. There's a zip tie that has a burnt mark on it and it was melted by a capacitor.
Dang mirage is nice
Agreed. I got this set a few years ago at a great price. I have a nano-sat set up with this sub. Back when I got it, the whole setup was selling for $800. $100 per nano-sat and $300 for the sub. I caught a sale where you buy the nano-sats and get the sub for free, plus free shipping. That was a stretch for me then, but I jumped on it anyway, and have been super happy every single day that I did. The sound quality is the best I've ever had.
my amp isnt buzzing but it has static. any clue wth that might be? id hate to throw it away and i surely would rather fix it then buy a new one.
Thanks for your great video, Floyd! I have the same exact Mirage Nano sub and replaced the blown capacitors just like you. I then put everything back together, but there is no power when I plug it in and the switch is on. It DID power up (WITH the loud buzzing-LOL) before I began the repair. Is it possible I harmed the circuit board when wrestling the old capacitors out? Any advice you or anyone else in the comments have would be appreciated. THANKS!!!
Check the little fuse in there. Mine was a teeny little fuse, something like a 1 or 2 amp and for some reason after replacing the caps it kept blowing immediately. I took a gamble and uses a 5 amp fuse and it's been working great ever since. I think the new caps just have a higher initial amperage requirement.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Hi again Floyd, I replaced the old fuse with a 5 amp fuse. However, when I plugged in the power cord, I heard a pop from my wall outlet and tripped the circuit breaker. D'OH! What have I done - LOL? Any suggestions are definitely appreciated - thanks!
@@addnh Not so sure on that one. I'm not an electrical engineer, but it certainly sounds like something else in there is bad and causing the amp to pull a huge amount of current at start up.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Yeah, that's kind of what I figured, too. Thanks again for the great video!
By this is obviously old, but did you make sure to install the caps with the correct polarity? That could definitely be your problem. You have to make sure they are installed the same way as the ones you removed. The side of the capacitor with the line on in, as well as the side of the cap with the shorter leg , is the negative side. The side with the longer leg and no line is the positive. There is frequently a marking on the PCB with a “+” indicator as well.
I so wanna do this on mine, and even though I'm handy, electronics and me just don't mix... And I live somewhere where there just isn't /aren't shops that do this kind of work. Oh well I guess if I screw it up it can't get worse! Lol
Well, if it doesn't work and there is no option then might as well try. Just take your time and take it slow
I have a really expensive Revel Subwoofer that is making a loud buzzing sound like the one in your video. I removed the amp and examined the 2 large capacitors that look very similar to the 2 in your amp, except neither have the bulging tops. Is it possible that they are bad and the culprit of the buzzing sound even though they aren't bulging? Thanks for the informative video.
It's possible. If you have a good electronics shop in your area they could remove and test the capacitors, but it's really getting hard to find places like that any more.
Yes, it’s very possible the caps could be bad even though they aren’t bulging. Capacitors frequently fail with no exterior sign they are bad, the only way to check them is if you use an ESR meter.
Mine started doing that today, speakers are working normally. My wofer makes deeper noise than yours. Imma change the caps these days.
My subwoofer is humming too loud as well. I think the filter caps are very cheap, they dont even have a silver top its just black plastic and I have never heard even of the brand. Going to replace them with some good 105 degree ones, the originals are 85.
That black plastic may be just a cover over the silver part, unless the plastic has those little "cut" lines in it. Then it's just a cheap capacitor. Good luck, hope replacing the capacitors does the trick for you!
My problem is that the power supply in my Logitech z523 is making noise.
Bro 4.1 amplifier 2030ic lga h jiska subwoofer me humming aarha h... Transformer se 9 volt hi aa rha humming ka yhi karan h kya ya or koi? Please reply thanks
I wish I could help but don't know what you are asking. Something about a 2030 IC?
Hi I have a low hum and a static kind of sound ( crackling sound)? Subwoofer works. But the annoying crackling? I cleaned the gain and frequency dials? Any reply appreciated. Cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
Hi Dragan, is this sound happening while it's plugged in, or when it's just sitting there powered on? If happens plugged in only then I would suspect maybe a bad cable somewhere.
@@FloydNashFixItDad it only happens when the unit is powered on. Last night listening to music at low volume. I could hear a little pop or crackle every now and then? I have had a situation where the braided wire connecting to the voice coil touching the whizzer. I've never seen that one before. Thanks for the quick reply. If it is powered on with no music? It's quiet but any loud music? And sound becomes less . I hope that makes sense? Cheers
I was repairing an Energy subwoofer and it's interesting to see how they all use a similar amp design. Mine turned be the transformer itself which the clamping nuts itself needed to be tightened. However I do think you made a few mistakes. 1. Never buy capacitors from eBay/Amazon. Alot of them are fakes/no-names that don't meet spec...likely why yours looked smaller than the original. 2. Stuff should be glued down and you definitely don't want to burn off that old glue. The yellow glue actually turns brown over time with heat and becomes conductive. I always remove the yellow glue entirely as it will inevitably cause problems later and you might ruin the amp if things short out.
My preferred source for electronics components is DigiKey. The whole point here though was to show the average person how to do this repair with as little special as possible. Amazon is something most people are already familiar with. So far, the "cheap" capacitors have been working well for 4 years and have zero issues. If this were a more sensitive circuit then I might have used higher quality components, but this is just a basic filter to remove that 60 cycle hum so it really doesn't have to be that special. I've never actually seen issues with the glue causing anything other than problems removing a component. I've also heard it can become conductive, but so far have never actually seen that happen. I didn't want to burn it off but there was so much of it I had to do whatever I could to get enough off to remove the old capacitors. It's OK to use glue but this was just overkill.
@@FloydNashFixItDad yea, he’s right, that yellow glue, or I think specifically it’s actually nylon epoxy, is an absolute NIGHTMARE. The fact that it has been used for so long on sooooo many different electronic item leads me to believe one thing. There isn’t a chance in hell that the manufacturers do not know that this glue DOES in fact turn brown, become conductive, AND it definitely does become corrosive as well. It can short components out and I’ve seen it many times literally completely eat through the leads on components as well. If it has degraded to that point it’s dark dark brown, and it’s actually much easier to remove than if it was still yellow. Yellow it’s a bitch to remove but the brown stuff can be scraped off relatively easily. For the life of me I can’t believe that no company has been sued for 100% intentionally using the glue to enable planned obsolescence for their electronics. If they had stopped using it after hundreds of thousands of electronics had died from it over decades of use, j might believe it wa unintentional. But after opening up an amp that was built 2 years ago and finding this shit slathered all over it, you’d never be able to conivimcr me thru aren’t planning the obsolescence of this stuff. It’s like a perfect time bomb, set to go off after warranty is up.
Are they typically 50V capicitors and do they need to be put on a certain way or does it matter? I seen in the video you have 63V. I guess I was looking at another video where it was 50V capacitors
It depends on the circuit design for your amp. These can literally be almost any voltage or capacitance. It's whatever the engineers that designed the circuit ended up deciding was best for that application. Match what is in your amp currently so you know you have the correct part. If you have to substitute, go larger. If, for instance, I couldn't have found a 63V capacitor, I would not generally want to substitute with 50V. That may be too small and the smaller capacitor could blow up or not last as long. I would want to find something the same capacitance, but a higher voltage, like 75 volt or 100 volt.
@@FloydNashFixItDad On the capacitors, is there a positive and negative designated for each of the wires or does it matter which way they are installed. Seems easy enough.
Update: I missed where you mentioned the stripped part. I'll have to look out for that if I need to order. $10 for capacitors is alot cheaper than $300 for a new amp esp since the pricing on those went up.
@@amb7247 Yes, it most definitely matters which way they are installed. If you look on the capacitor, one side will have a stripe. Keep track on the old one which side that stripe is on and put the replacement capacitor on the same side. There may also be a + and - sign on there also. On the capacitors with both legs sticking out one end, the striped side is generally negative.
Hi sir , my subwoofer's also showing the same issue but when i opened it i found the capacitors . But it's not bulged . It has the same capacitors what you just replaced with. What should i do ?
Good question. If you have access to a capacitor tester, you could remove them and test them, but that's not something most people have available. You could take it to a shop and have them test them, but that might cost more than just replacing the capacitors to see what happens. If you feel comfortable replacing them, and can get replacements for a good price, it may be worth changing them to see what happens. If that's not the problem, at least you've ruled out a possibility.
My subwoofer also cuts out every once in a while when above like 10% power, would that also fix that or would it just fix the hum
I am not totally sure. I don't think this would affect the cutting out issue. That sounds like something else is going on.
I would pay a little more and get Nichicons or Rubycons as they are much better capacitors.
Now that I know for certain that the issue was the capacitors, if I need to replace them again, I'll go higher end. These were a nice, well reviewed option that I decided on so I wouldn't waste so much money if it was something other than the capacitors. So far, they have held up very well and had zero issues, and since I got a bag with several, I actually have spares.
Floyd Nash can you please provide the link of where you purchased the capacitors on Amazon, I have a JBL Sub300 with the same loud buzzing ,I’ve checked the amp plate , on these you can see the cross but both of them look flat so I’m not sure if that’s the actual cause of the issue but I would like to discard that out. There are some guys on eBay that you send them they complete plate, they fix it for a flat rate and send it back, the thing is the flat rate is $140 plus shipping that represents half the price if purchased as new the whole unit I don’t see a smart investment there. Regards
Don’t buy your caps on eBay. Buy them on mouser or digikey. Like 90% of the caps on eBay are fakes.
I have watched a lot of videos on this subject and this is the BEST one yet
Thank you. That means a LOT!
my cheap radio shack pc sub woofer makes a static noise,i bought the 3 piece stem new, after the sub has been on for a bit then it starts to make the static noise,i turn the speaker system off for a bit,turn it on,no static noiser
That may be the volume control. Those were known to do that. Pull the knob off and spray the control with tuner cleaner and twist back and forth and that may get it to stop doing that
@@FloydNashFixItDad no volume control is a separate device,its not on one of the speakers..3 speakers plus the volume control that also has plugins for headphones ect
Hey Floyd. I did this with a subwoofer and still get the buzz for a second when it powers on. What would I check next?
If it's only for a second and goes away, then I wouldn't change anything. The capacitors need time to charge to full capacity, so it may just be that they are a tad larger than needed and takes enough time to be noticeable. If it operates perfectly after that then I would wait and see what happens and just enjoy it.
Can i add 2 more capacitor parallel with old or change to 10k
That's probably a bad idea. It might increase the start up voltage requirements which could burn out other components or start blowing fuses, could change the frequency being filtered, or any number of things. It could also increase the effectiveness by decreasing the ripple that causes the hum in the first place, but I don't think so. The circuit is designed to have the proper size capacitor for the circuit, so I would stick with the one it was designed for.
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Hey I have a question, I have the exact same sub with the same problem and I replaced the capacitors, when I plugged it in the fuse blew, do you have any ideas? Thank you!
Yes, mine did the same. I think the newer caps charge faster and have a higher initial draw. I think the OEM fuses were 2 amp if I remember right, and I want to say it was a 5 amp I decided to use instead, and it's been working just fine ever since, and it's been right under 2 years.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thank you for the quick reply! I tried the 5amp 250v and it burned out but maybe that was too much. The OEM one is 1amp 250v, I'll go to lowes today and see if they sell the 2amp 250v as the auto parts store dont seem to have it.
@@chrislmcnair you should triple check that you installed the capacitors with the correct polarity. If you installed one or both backward they would instantly blow the fuse as well.
I need to do this, but I'm super worried about ruining something getting that goop off.
I was too. It was really hard to get off as well. At that point though, I figured the sub is toast so I might as well try.
I just followed these instructions to repair my sub. Plugged in in and no buzzing 5 minutes later I heard a Pop and the new caps I installed just exploded. I installed them with the stickers matched up as per the old ones and matched the ratings. Any idea what could have went wrong? Thanks
Either the caps weren't big enough or there is another issue going on
They were correctly rated. I've reinstalled the old ones and it's back to how it was - buzzing and unusable 😂
can you provide specific capacitor model number or part number for amazon ordering?
No, those can vary depending on your specific application. The capacitor for my sub might be different than what is needed in yours. You would have to see what is in place currently and get a comparable replacement. Sorry, but electronics are pretty picky like that.
In capacitor what is more important the size or the power(2200uf 25 v) or the size
It depends on the application, but the first thing you want to match is the capacitance (the uf rating). The wrong rating will cause you to have the wrong results for your circuit. Then you want to size it for your circuit. A huge capacitor in a 5 volt circuit won't do anything, and a tiny little capacitor in an application like this, would blow up immediately, or at least not filter like it's supposed to. So, the answer really is both matter a great deal. You always want to try and match the original.
@@FloydNashFixItDad thank you, i change my 2200uf 25v with 2200uf 35v but it is not fix i don't know what to do...???
@@domynicdomy8407 if it still has hum plugged into electricity, but with nothing plugged into it, and you've replaced the filter capacitors in the power supply, then you may have another issue. The capacitor replacement just fixes one of the most common issues, not all of them that are possible.
@@FloydNashFixItDad thank you I'll try it
The temp of the cap relates to the length of life it will have...85 deg you can expect 5-10 yrs..105 deg you can expect 20+ yrs
Anyone know why they glued the capacitors? I don't see why that would be necessary.
I think it's mostly for vibration but not sure. I didn't see a real need either. The replacements have no glue and have been working fine for years now.
Help me please I have multimedia speaker system but the subwoofer has stopped what could be the problem
Unfortunately there are a million answers to such a generic question. It could be not getting power, bad cord, blown fuse, power supply went bad. A cable connection to the rest of the system could be bad. Output on the other unit could be bad or input on the sub went bad. You'll just have to start checking thru things bit by bit to isolate the trouble point
It sucks that most if not all sub manufactures use smaller caps . If they had put in higher caps , most people would still be using they subs and not trashing them . P\s Floyd hope you bought some good side cutters by now. Always re-glue cap. no (short) cuts.
So many people miss the point of this video. It's to show the average person how to do this. Maybe I could have used nail clippers in retrospect, but most people don't have side cutters so I showed them an alternate way to get this done without having to buy a bunch of tools. Even if it only prolongs the life another 2, 3, 4 years, it's still better than having to fork over the cash for a new subwoofer, especially at prices today.
100% right
Hi Floyd,
Thank you for the video. I have the same subwoofer as yours and I noticed that my fuse is blown also. Do know what size fuse do I need for this mirage nano sub
I believe the original was a 1 amp 220 volt fuse. I had a couple of those that kept blowing immediately with the new capacitors, and I ended up having to use a 5 amp fuse because that's all I had at the moment, and it worked fine. I think a 2.5 amp would have been more appropriate, but if I have something that shorts, it's going to draw more than 5 amps most likely so that larger fuse should still be fine. Look on the silver end caps on your fuse, and the value for the fuse will be etched into it.
Floyd Nash
I’m surprised that the fuse kept blowing while you replaced the caps with the same values.
I would recommend to get some lower value fuses though. If something shortens, a 5A fuse won’t prevent as much damage as a 1,5A fuse will.
Floyd Nash
Could it be that you replaced a slow fuse with fast ones?
The slow ones have a T besides the amperage and the fast ones have an F.
A fast fuse would indeed blow immediately when a slow one should have been installed.
@@Conservator. I'm thinking the new capacitors I used simply have a faster charge rate than the old ones, which would create a higher initial current draw. I've been running these fuses for over a year now with no issues so I think at this point we can say it's safe. 5 amps really is not a huge amperage rating for a device of this size, so I think I'm still well within any safe zone also. The 1 amp fuses I tried were the same as the old. The old were standard fast blow fuses. I'm very aware of the difference.
Floyd Nash Hi,
I’m from the Netherlands do 5Amps equals more than 1000W RMS input power. For you it’s probably ‘only’ 500W.
Maybe the new caps have a much lower ESR and that would certainly blow a 1A fast fuse if the circuit doesn’t have an inrush limiter.
If it doesn’t, I would add one and use a smaller fuse but that’s just me trying to be as safe as possible. Wouldn’t do a lot though because those caps can do a lot of damage to the components if something shorts.
In short: I agree with you 😉
Can you help plz .. i have same issue of buzzin of my sub .. i have cut the woofer wires and other 5 speakers still working smoothly but when i try to connect the woofers wire it buzz again . I have replaced that capacitors but still same problem .
You may have to start looking at the circuit for the sub portion. It sounds like it may be a separate circuit with it's own amp, and may have capacitors to help regulate voltage on that side. Look for any caps that may be smaller than the primary ones in the power supply, that have bulging tops to them.
@@FloydNashFixItDad today i replaced all the capacitors because it was about 15+ years old sub .. but fault was still. Yesterday i replaced 2 audio ICs TDA2030 but buzzing was not removed. Today one thing came in my mind that i should replace all the audio ICs at once may be new and old ICs not compatible, and i replaced all 7 audio ICs and now sub working perfect .. well thanks to you i learnt from your video
@@TheMati420 You went WAY beyond what most people would do. Excellent job!. It's amazing just how little the individual components cost compared to the amount you pay for the assembled product.
@@FloydNashFixItDad yes I bought 10 capacitors and 7 audio ICs TDA2030 in just 2.5 $😋😋 and the new home theater like this is about 300 $$ here in market .