I rarely ever use B&W but I tried the L monochrome D on my lumix GX9 after it rained on some flowers and I was so happy with the way the water drops looked! I need to use it more often.
I was taught to do all RAW Adobe RGB and sort B&W out later. The theory was you have a tone of information in a bullet proof file that you can mess with, I'm still doing that and find that photo filters in photoshop include a B&&W InfraRED. I'm currently enamored of that mode.
I so agree that shooting black and white at the scene is the way to go, and I read that apparently if you shoot raw plus fine jpeg you save a raw file in colour…✌️🇦🇺
Hi Todd, I just purchased a used ZS100 3 weeks ago at a decent price. Very pleased with it, so no doubt I'll go with a 2d hand ZS200 one day for the larger zoom, better evf and focus stacking ability... I was looking at this 1" camera for a long time to complete my mft gear with an actualy pocketable superzoom cam for everyday use and light trips. I've discovered these rich filters options and ajustables paramètres for B&W profiles while looking at all the picture style settings: it's exactly what I was looking for as I intended to create a custom profile for B&W portraits and street photography ! I haven't shot black n'white for several years so I'm enthusiastic to find such a good tool to play with: I think I'll have a lot of fun using this little gem! Thanks for your videos: I like your job! 👍
Hello from New York City! Please help me understand. What is the difference between contrast and dynamic range? What is the purpose of in-camera Noise Reduction (NR)? When shooting at ISO100, is Noise reduction needed? Thank you for your informative video
Thanks for asking. Dynamic range is a characteristic of a sensor or film and is the values from dark to light that these can accurately capture. Contrast is a characteristic of a scene or your final image after editing. So on a cloudy day, the contrast, that is the difference from dark to light in a scene, isn't very high. On a sunny day at noon the bright areas of a scene are much brighter than the shadows, so the contrast is high. So a sensor or film with low dynamic range will have an easier time capturing a low contrast scene like what you see on a cloudy day. With a low dynamic range sensor or film on a sunny day, you're either going to have completely black shadows or completely white highlights, depending on how you expose the image, and you're not going to be able to fix this later. But a sensor or film with high dynamic range will be able to record more of what's in the shadows and highlights. Then you can adjust the image in post-processing to get the contrast you desire in the final result. I actually like having the darkest parts of an image completely black in many cases, so that's what I edit for in post. I'll give you an example. Back in film days, I shot a lot of Fujichrome Velvia, which didn't have much dynamic range, only about 5 stops. Most modern CMOS sensors have up to 15 stops or so, depending on the sensor. With Velvia, you generally exposed to let the shadows go completely dark, so you didn't lose anything in the highlight areas. Blown highlights did not look good with Velvia and they don't look good with digital either. I hope this answers your question. Let me know if you need anything else.
Todd, do the L Monochrome and D monochrome photo styles achieve the same effects as yellow or red filters? Or, do you need to apply those filters separately or in addition to using the monochrome photo styles? Thanks a lot for your helpful video
Nevermind... i think I discovered the answer to my question... the red and yellow filters are options if you choose L or D monochrome photo style (on my G95). It is a little confusing since these items don't show up under the Filter Settings menu item
I rarely ever use B&W but I tried the L monochrome D on my lumix GX9 after it rained on some flowers and I was so happy with the way the water drops looked! I need to use it more often.
I was taught to do all RAW Adobe RGB and sort B&W out later. The theory was you have a tone of information in a bullet proof file that you can mess with, I'm still doing that and find that photo filters in photoshop include a B&&W InfraRED. I'm currently enamored of that mode.
That’s probably the optimal way to do it. However, the built in camera filters do a pretty good job for people who just want it out of camera.
I so agree that shooting black and white at the scene is the way to go, and I read that apparently if you shoot raw plus fine jpeg you save a raw file in colour…✌️🇦🇺
Yes, shooting raw + jpeg gives you color if you decide that’s better later.
Raw is always raw
Hi Todd, I just purchased a used ZS100 3 weeks ago at a decent price.
Very pleased with it, so no doubt I'll go with a 2d hand ZS200 one day for the larger zoom, better evf and focus stacking ability...
I was looking at this 1" camera for a long time to complete my mft gear with an actualy pocketable superzoom cam for everyday use and light trips.
I've discovered these rich filters options and ajustables paramètres for B&W profiles while looking at all the picture style settings: it's exactly what I was looking for as I intended to create a custom profile for B&W portraits and street photography !
I haven't shot black n'white for several years so I'm enthusiastic to find such a good tool to play with: I think I'll have a lot of fun using this little gem!
Thanks for your videos: I like your job! 👍
Glad to help. Thank you!
Hello from New York City! Please help me understand. What is the difference between contrast and dynamic range? What is the purpose of in-camera Noise Reduction (NR)? When shooting at ISO100, is Noise reduction needed? Thank you for your informative video
Thanks for asking. Dynamic range is a characteristic of a sensor or film and is the values from dark to light that these can accurately capture. Contrast is a characteristic of a scene or your final image after editing. So on a cloudy day, the contrast, that is the difference from dark to light in a scene, isn't very high. On a sunny day at noon the bright areas of a scene are much brighter than the shadows, so the contrast is high. So a sensor or film with low dynamic range will have an easier time capturing a low contrast scene like what you see on a cloudy day.
With a low dynamic range sensor or film on a sunny day, you're either going to have completely black shadows or completely white highlights, depending on how you expose the image, and you're not going to be able to fix this later. But a sensor or film with high dynamic range will be able to record more of what's in the shadows and highlights. Then you can adjust the image in post-processing to get the contrast you desire in the final result. I actually like having the darkest parts of an image completely black in many cases, so that's what I edit for in post.
I'll give you an example. Back in film days, I shot a lot of Fujichrome Velvia, which didn't have much dynamic range, only about 5 stops. Most modern CMOS sensors have up to 15 stops or so, depending on the sensor. With Velvia, you generally exposed to let the shadows go completely dark, so you didn't lose anything in the highlight areas. Blown highlights did not look good with Velvia and they don't look good with digital either.
I hope this answers your question. Let me know if you need anything else.
I have a gx85.
Todd, do the L Monochrome and D monochrome photo styles achieve the same effects as yellow or red filters? Or, do you need to apply those filters separately or in addition to using the monochrome photo styles? Thanks a lot for your helpful video
Nevermind... i think I discovered the answer to my question... the red and yellow filters are options if you choose L or D monochrome photo style (on my G95). It is a little confusing since these items don't show up under the Filter Settings menu item
@@laddrob Yes, it is a bit confusing.