Thanks for your time and the video. After learning the "Easy Change" filter is $40, I almost didn't purchase the JD tractor. Finding out you can convert to a standard filter and change method was quite helpful.
You saved me some money, now and in the future. For my first oil change on an E150, I got the 2 jugs of oil, the filter and the two required parts from the John Deere dealer for less than the cost of the ez change filter alone. thank you, well done.
I never comment on videos, and truth be told I could've figured this out myself with the instructions included in this kit. That being said I still appreciate the added confidence I get from seeing your video so thank you very much sir
fantastic video, very well explained. i just bought my tractor and came upon the conversion kit on google- this is much cheaper and better for the engine. will order the kit today. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video. It was great. When I bought my E120 last summer (2018) they told me about the EZ Change System. I knew right away that it wasn't for the serious gear heads. I had always changed the oil in my small engines (lawn mowers, snow blower) once a year, every year. So I started looking for a way to convert it to a "regular" system. Your video was the first one I found on this and it helped me a lot. I just did the swap today (Sep 3, 2019) at the 8-hour mark. It went pretty much the way you laid it out. The John Deere dealer here in Ottawa Canada didn't stock the complete conversion kit like the Green Parts Store does but they did sell every part separately. I'm going to keep the EZ Change mounting bracket in case I get too old to use the tractor and have to sell it. It might attract a few more buyers when the time comes. Thanks again. Doug
Thank you so much for sharing this. I bought an E130 new this year, and thought it was a great idea until I realized that it was not replacing all of the oil. Happy to know that the conversion kit is very inexpensive. I will be doing this as soon as I hit 50 hours on the hour meter.
I wouldn't wait until the 50-hour mark. The manual specifically says the break-in period is 8 hours. Then it's every 50 hours or every year whichever comes first.
@@georgeradak4119, I have worked and mixed ford trucks from 92-97 & even back then they had their head in their a$$. I can't imagine how bad they are on the new ones, the 92-97 trucks were the last ones to get a labeled fuse panel.
Great video, just completed the upgrade and it took about an hour and most of the time was spent cleaning up my mess. Don't understand how anyone could agree w/ the original design of leaving all this dirty oil in the crankcase and calling it a "change kit". Great conversion kit from John Deere for less than the cost of one original oil / filter change!
Well I guess their idea is leaving dirty oil in your engine will shorten its life and you will have to buy a new one in 5 or 6 years as oppose to the old ones which could last up to 20 years.Mine is 17 years old and still going. Just saying. Kudos to John Deere, vary smart. LOL.
I’ve only got 5 hrs on my D160, but I ordered the conversion kit. $30.00 for a filter sucks! Love the mower, had to break it in on 2 acres of 3-6’ tall grass. Very impressive, but hard on a mower! Checked the oil before mowing it the second time, & I was a quarter of a small bottle, low. Topped it off, & it impressed me again! It took me 2 hrs to mow 2 acres of that thick grass from the first mowing. I’m almost ready to lower the deck to below the 4” height on the machine. I had to wait a week to mow the second time. Thanks for the video, it showed me what was involved, to make up my mind. I bought the Deere, because the property is 45 miles away from my house. My home mower is a 42”, 24hp zero turn Craftsman z6000. I really like both mowers, but thought 42” deck was two small for 2 acres. This is my first John Deere, Satisfied so far. I might be able to use same parts on both mowers.
Great video and very well explained. I too ordered from Green Parts Store. They had instructions noting how much to torque the drain pipe and filter nipple. Always good to torque any fitting to spec.
Thanks Rick, great video, I've had the kit for a year and now time for first oil change but couldn't quite see how until I saw your video. Joh from Hamilton Ontario Canada
Great video ! I watched it once and went out to the garage and converted my E160. Glad I saw all the conversation about how worthless the EZ change system is. Sorry I paid extra for it.
Thanks Richard . Awaiting arrival Of new JDE120 and ordered conversion kit . Now I know how to do conversion from your video. Your video was more than adequate .
Great video. I just ordered the kit for my S120. When I bought it last June I thought the easy change would be great. Then I saw how much it costs and how little oil is changed. Will install the kit to be ready for spring.
That was an AWESOME video! Common sense solution. And those new fancy big green filters are over $40 as opposed to around $13 for the one you can use now!
Before this, I would never buy a new john deere coz of the filter which is too expensive and having to push the gas paddle all the while. But after seeing your video and getting one with cruise control, I might just buy me one. Thanks for that info.
Thank you for that video! I have the e120 that my wife bought me. I love it. That was he first thing I noticed was the ez filter. Like you said you only get 1/2 quart out if it. You are only changing the filter! I like the conventional method of oil changing. That has been around for over 100 years and their is a reason why. It works! I also liked the beeps on the end of each task. Again great video!!
This video TOTALLY helped me. The "Easy Change" idea SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS. An oil change should remove MOST oil and particulates, not just 45-50% of it. The engineer whom invented this at John Deere should be fired and the marketing person has no idea about what happens to an engine with debris in the oil. SHAME ON JOHN DEERE!!! Cub Cadet peeps are laughing at us. Thanks much for this video!! It got the job done and your video quality was straight to-the-point, sir!
Let me clarify my comments on RICHARDS SUPERB video here. My point that I was trying to make is that it is pathetic that John Deere did this stupid system. Richard is absolutely correct in that you need to get all the oil out. Great Video. Richard they should compensate you for the expense of the parts. There should be a coupon or some type of credit that allows you to get compensation for this. I run my lawn tractor for about 50 hours a season...I change the oil 3 times a year. Spring/Halfway thru the season and then Fall. 250 Plus Hours and I want to get at least 800 Hours. But...You never know with that damn K-46 Transmission.
excellent content, don't worry about video quality - just fine... no BS, bring another when you have a topic... maybe "how to disable foot brake safety switch" ?
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to share. I use a qs3614 oil filter in place of the JD filter. You can cross the QS3614 to other brands I just prefer the Quaker State. The JD filter is puny and nothing special no check valve nothing at all. The QS 3614 fits perfect and is 2x the size and 1/3 the price and available anywhere and fits perfect. The oil supplied in the kit is a standard oil grade of API SM(automotive grade pre 2010). I use a quality API SN grade oil(the current automotive standard) Do it yourself cost with oil is less than 30$. BTW prefill the filter with oil before installing the filter don"t dry start the engine that applies to all engines all oil changes.
Thanks for the video! I was looking at Deere riders and my heart sank when I saw the crappy "Easy No Change" engine wrecking system had been installed. Thanks for providing clear instructions on how to delete this moronic invention.
great job and good video, it is to the point. I am currently in the market for a new lawn tractor and I've decided against any that has this system on it specifically for the reasons that you changed yours.
good video. The screwdriver did work but made me cringe a bit. The only real issue is that you should have lubed the oil filter seal with a bit of oil and HAND TIGHTENED it as tight as you could get it. Never ever use a filter wrench to tighten this type of oil filter. It can damage the filter if you are not careful, and it makes them incredibly hard to remove even using a filter wrench. Other than that you did a great job with good camera work and got right to it without the usual blah blah blah that most guys do!
Richard, Thanks for posting this video. I'm getting ready to take the riding mower out and start using it again. I've wondered how I could adapt the tractor to a regular oil filter. This has answered my question. I thank you and my John Deer thanks you.
They were out of the e140's and said it would be quite some time before getting any. We were in dire need for a new mower so they knocked a couple more dollars off price and we bought the e150. But with the conversion kit all is good.
@@PACK-ge5gu Really like it, just got it out for the season. I think John Deere has somewhat lowered their quality standards but time will tell. It scalped the yard bad new but the mower deck was way out of adjustment. Thinking of doing a video on adjusting the deck and a couple other things. I'd recommend getting one.
I also switched to a Motorcraft FL-400-S oil filter which is a longer filter. It's a third the cost of a JD filter and can be picked up at Wally World. It requires a little more oil when you use one. Been running this filter for years on my LA130.
Yes Donald, my 48" deck has the John Deere mulching cover. It has bad ratings amongst other owners but works for me. When you first put it on it has a tendency to leak a small amount of clipping but stops once the slight gap is filled. For the 48" deck the part number is GY20417. I have been using Oregon Gator blades for years. There are many knock offs so you have to make sure the Oregon sticker is on them. These were the ones for my 48" deck. Have worked great. www.ebay.com/itm/3-Oregon-92-616-Gator-Blades-GX21784-GY20852/183692499639?hash=item2ac4ed1ab7:g:ZrEAAOSwUwFaNb6c
Stephen, if you pause the video at the beginning, you can see by the belt cover towards the front there are 2 studs/bolts sticking up on the deck. The side shoot connects there. I left the nuts on so I wouldn't loose them. I put a mulching cover on and switched out the blades to Oregon "gator" mulching blades. Have had good luck with them in the past.
The Green Parts store, who is a John Deere dealer sells the conversion kit using genuine John Deere parts. Since this video, I have changed the oil a couple times and gotten the filter from my John Deere dealer who is familiar with the conversion kit. www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Easy-Change-Conversion-Kit-AUC12916-KIT.html
The ONLY part of the "Easy Change" system that I like, is the extra large JD oil filter. If money is no concern, continue using the Easy Change oil filter and drain the entire engine, with the drain plug on the other side of the engine as shown in this video. You'll just need to buy a couple extra quarts of oil with every "Easy Change" filter.
Hi Thanks for the info, I'm gonna do the same thing for my john deere. I have a question though, why use permatex on the drain tube and loctite for the filter nipple?
Just personal preference. Locktite on the filter nipple will help from it screwing out with when the filter is removed. Since the drain pipe is steel and the block aluminum, permatex should stop any seepage. There are comments on this post not recommending doing that ?
you say you spray raptor liner through a normal spray gun with reducer for a finer finish , is the finish Good and did you mean the gun was destroyed by the end , thank you
I use a cheap purple Harbor Freight spray gun. U Pol states you can thin Raptor Liner up to 10% with Urethane Thinner. I have found on tintable liner I thin it to a 5% max because of using the tint base which thins it. I prefer a thicker application. I know people who thinned the Raptor liner 10% then added the tint and had excellent results. I spray using the paint tip that came with the gun. Black pre tinted Raptor liner I reduce at 10%. I also suggest a suggestion someone made online to drill the spray tip out to 2.0 mm with the black. I can get the Harbor Freight guns on sale/w coupons under $10. I clean and reuse them but don't get to upset if one is trashed. In actual beds and undercarriage my preference is to just use a shutz gun and not thin it. For body applications and interior floor pans thinned looks better. Seems to hold up fine thinned. Use it lots on rockers front to back on stone chipped areas. Don't get complaints. Lots of You Tube videos on the process. I'm not patient enough to make one on that large of a scale.
I have one question. when you replace the drain plug with the longer extension. Does the side panel fit or does it hit the drain plug? It looks long enough to prevent the panel from going back on.
4" from the block to end of extension end cap. From the end of the extension to the plastic cover is 1 - 1/4", plenty of room for plastic cover to go on.
Very helpful video. I am old school also and we can't imagine why some pencil pushing knucklehead came up with these 1/2 qt oil changes. AAAHHHHH, that's right!!! JD would love to sell some service to you or a whole new machine. During BREAK - IN all the metal shavings have to be removed from any engine to avoid damaging the Bearings, Cylinder Walls, Top end and your WALLET. Long term reliability and machine's life span depends directly on the correct "Break - In". (learn this skill) If the manual recommends 7hrs, do one oil change with "Dino" oil at 3.5 hrs and Mobil 1 at 7 hrs. Machine will smile and run forever.
I agree Capt Jay. I am a oil change fanatic. My new John Deere replaced a 17 year old Craftsman that still ran great but deck and tires were shot. I like to check the first oil change for metal and didn't like the fact you couldn't with this ez change system. I cut the filter open and cringed at the amount of oil in it. At that point I decided I needed a plan B. I was surprised when I found the entire kit at such a great price. I've used Castrol oil on my small engines for years. Just a personal preference.
One issue. The oil drain bolt removal seems impossible. Could not get it off. Seems to be a square pipe plug with Red thread lock which will be hard to remove without a proper socket. I saw another video recommending a 14mm socket might work but it didn’t. The plug metal is too soft and it starts to strip the head....Just be prepared for that.
I used a open end wrench to get mine off ? You can' get much of a turn on it but it works. Mine had the red thread lock also. Thanks for the feed back in case someone else has a issue.
Very good video. I am getting ready to do the same conversion on my E130. One question....the instructions don't mention using thread sealant. Is it really necessary in your opinion? Thank you.
Because of the engine vibration and the fact your screwing steel into aluminum I opted to use it. I preferred Permatex #2 on the drain tube. Teflon tape on a steel tube screwing it into aluminum rather concerns me. I'd rather use the sealant than have to redo it. On the nipple for the oil filter I used blue lock tite so it doesn't unscrew with the filter. I let it dry a couple hours before installing the filter. Lastly, I contacted John Deere and installing the kit does not affect the warranty using the John Deere parts.
The EZ change unit is one piece. When you take the 1 1/8 bolt out the entire assembly comes off. The nipple screws in where the bolt did. The standard oil filter screws onto the nipple. Just picture a regular motor with the threaded nipple where the oil filter screws on. Once you take this 1 1/8" hollow bolt out and the EZ fill unit off your motor will look just like that. Screw the nipple provided in the kit in the threaded hole where the bolt came out and the filter screws on it just like a regular motor. Hope this helps.
Since most small engines don't even have an oil filter, why can't we just leave on the one filter it comes with and just drain and refill the oil conventionally a couple times a season? Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Thank You for the reply Tommy Tester. I imagine that could be an option. I have a very large yard and using John Deere's recommended filter change interval I change my oil a minimum of 3 times a cutting season and I always change oil & filter before putting it away for winter storage. It will be ready for spring. The current price on a ez change filter is $39.99 locally. I can get a John Deere standard filter for $8.99. John Deere oil Qt. $3.97 ea.. Based on three oil & filter changes it would cost me $46.82 for a season. This gives me peace of mind I have clean oil being filtered by a clean filter all season. If I leave the ez change filter on as you suggest against John Deere's recommended change interval and just change the oil it will cost me $39.99 for filter and $11.91 for oil totaling $51.90 for the season. I save nothing plus I am leaving a oil filter on at least twice as long as recommended. I would not personally do that but I'm a maintenance fanatic. If someone had a small yard maybe it would work, but technically using scheduled changes that wouldn't make much difference ?
I thought about that also. I was going to install the drain tube below the starter and drain the crankcase and change the EZ Change filter, but $40.00 for the replacement seemed a little high so I went with the total conversion. Other than the mess, it worked fine.
I'm not looking for anything. My neighbor picked up a E150 right after I got mine last fall. He swore by the EZchange system. He changed the oil after the initial break in time and bragged about how it took him 2 minutes. He cut grass once and checked the oil. It was down substantially and he came over and asked me if I had a quart as I normally buy oil & a filter shortly after changing oil to stay stocked up. He asked if I knew anywhere to get the EZchange filter cheaper. Now he would also have to buy a quart of oil every two oil changes if the EZchange cartridge wasn't replenishing all the oil. I talked him into us draining all the oil out through the drain plug just to check it out. I had 2 quarts to replace it. The new EZchange oil with one grass cut on it was dirty with particulates. He wasn't happy. He's almost due for another oil change in mid July and asked me to order the conversion kit and help him change over. When I showed him the price he was shocked how much cheaper it was than the EZchange filter. And after installing the kit it will be even cheaper the next change and you will have clean oil.
Can the residual oil just be sucked out with a vacuum pump style oil evacuator instead of adding the drain tube? I take it the standard oil filter won’t fit on the easy change filter housing?
I've never used a vacuum pump to remove oil from a small engine ? NO, a standard oil filter will not work on the EZ change filter housing. The housing has to be removed and a nipple screwed into the block per instructions.
I see a lot of hate for this system, and sure I'm not a fan either, but it helps a lot of homeowners at least half maintain their stuff, which a lot of people do NONE of.
I just ordered the oil drain tube So I can drain the oil.im keeping the big oil filter its pricey but I think it's better then the small ones that's my opinion no one get mad lol
Your choice to keep the big filter, however, the only reason it is so big is because it has to have room for the oil that's in it. If you drain the oil, I imagine you have to buy a qt of oil when changing as you will be draining more oil than what is in the new large filter. I never cut open a ez change filter but the actual filtering portion probably isn't any bigger than the smaller filter.
This is what Deere says... John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system The John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system makes changing the engine oil easy, quick, and clean. Changing the oil is as easy as twisting on a new oil-filled filter. Oil does not need to be drained from the engine. The John Deere Easy Change filter is an additional engine oil reservoir. Changing the filter removes the captured contaminants and replaces about 0.8 qt (0.76 L) of the engine oil. Compared to the 100 Series traditional oil filter, the Easy Change oil system uses a synthetic filter media material, has more filtering capacity, and has more oil flow capacity, � and the engine system has 40 percent more oil volume. Everyone who uses the John Deere Easy Change system saves time and avoids the mess of a traditional oil change. In the past, many 100 Series Lawn Tractor owners rarely or never got around to changing their engine oil. With John Deere Easy Change, even owners who previously would not consider changing the oil themselves can easily do it now. So, I say to deere if this is so why don't they use the quick change system on the E140?
Hello Donald. My mower is a E150 and had EZ change. At that time the E140 and E170 didn't have the system. We went for a E170 and they were sold out so we got the E150. I checked out the new ones a couple weeks ago and the E140 still doesn't use the system but E150, E170 & E180 does ? I originally thought maybe it was only the 25 H.P. v-twins because the E140 is a 22 H.P. v-twin but the E130 is 22 H.P. and uses the system. It may be true the EZ change may allow those mechanically challenged to change their oil. I prefer all clean oil and a filter when changing at less than half the cost of the EZ change cartridge. John Deere dealerships have the conversion kit available and the one I deal with agrees the standard filter allows a complete fresh oil and filter. I'm sure they agree with someone forking out double the cost or more for the EZ change also when they come in.
I used a crowfoot wrench with a ratchet and extension. I just got a cheap set at Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-sae-wrench-set-94426.html
Thanks for your time and the video. After learning the "Easy Change" filter is $40, I almost didn't purchase the JD tractor. Finding out you can convert to a standard filter and change method was quite helpful.
Hey man, Great Video and absolutely no need to apologize for "unprofessional" . Speaking for myself you helped me out big time.
I agree. I think you did great for your first time. Congrats.
GOOD JOB!👍
You saved me some money, now and in the future. For my first oil change on an E150, I got the 2 jugs of oil, the filter and the two required parts from the John Deere dealer for less than the cost of the ez change filter alone. thank you, well done.
I never comment on videos, and truth be told I could've figured this out myself with the instructions included in this kit. That being said I still appreciate the added confidence I get from seeing your video so thank you very much sir
Your dash cam video came out beautifully. I only cringed when you used a screwdriver instead of a hex socket. Thanks for the info.
fantastic video, very well explained. i just bought my tractor and came upon the conversion kit on google- this is much cheaper and better for the engine. will order the kit today. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video. It was great.
When I bought my E120 last summer (2018) they told me about the EZ Change System. I knew right away that it wasn't for the serious gear heads. I had always changed the oil in my small engines (lawn mowers, snow blower) once a year, every year. So I started looking for a way to convert it to a "regular" system.
Your video was the first one I found on this and it helped me a lot.
I just did the swap today (Sep 3, 2019) at the 8-hour mark. It went pretty much the way you laid it out.
The John Deere dealer here in Ottawa Canada didn't stock the complete conversion kit like the Green Parts Store does but they did sell every part separately.
I'm going to keep the EZ Change mounting bracket in case I get too old to use the tractor and have to sell it. It might attract a few more buyers when the time comes.
Thanks again.
Doug
Thank you so much for sharing this. I bought an E130 new this year, and thought it was a great idea until I realized that it was not replacing all of the oil. Happy to know that the conversion kit is very inexpensive. I will be doing this as soon as I hit 50 hours on the hour meter.
I wouldn't wait until the 50-hour mark. The manual specifically says the break-in period is 8 hours. Then it's every 50 hours or every year whichever comes first.
Can I Smack the guy who invented the "Easy Change Oil Filter System"
It's illegal to hit a minor !!!
@@rickb8808 had to be a former Ford engineer.
Richard Bricker 😂 😂
It would be ok if it had full amont of oil and was not too expensive. But you're right.
@@georgeradak4119, I have worked and mixed ford trucks from 92-97 & even back then they had their head in their a$$. I can't imagine how bad they are on the new ones, the 92-97 trucks were the last ones to get a labeled fuse panel.
I only have 4hrs on my E170 I purchased at the end of last summer but I think I'm going to do the same thing. Thanks for a great video.
Great video, just completed the upgrade and it took about an hour and most of the time was spent cleaning up my mess. Don't understand how anyone could agree w/ the original design of leaving all this dirty oil in the crankcase and calling it a "change kit". Great conversion kit from John Deere for less than the cost of one original oil / filter change!
Yes Sir, and now you can use your favorite oil also. Change over isn't hard at all.
Well I guess their idea is leaving dirty oil in your engine will shorten its life and you will have to buy a new one in 5 or 6 years as oppose to the old ones which could last up to 20 years.Mine is 17 years old and still going. Just saying. Kudos to John Deere, vary smart. LOL.
I’ve only got 5 hrs on my D160, but I ordered the conversion kit. $30.00 for a filter sucks! Love the mower, had to break it in on 2 acres of 3-6’ tall grass. Very impressive, but hard on a mower! Checked the oil before mowing it the second time, & I was a quarter of a small bottle, low. Topped it off, & it impressed me again! It took me 2 hrs to mow 2 acres of that thick grass from the first mowing. I’m almost ready to lower the deck to below the 4” height on the machine. I had to wait a week to mow the second time. Thanks for the video, it showed me what was involved, to make up my mind. I bought the Deere, because the property is 45 miles away from my house. My home mower is a 42”, 24hp zero turn Craftsman z6000. I really like both mowers, but thought 42” deck was two small for 2 acres. This is my first John Deere, Satisfied so far. I might be able to use same parts on both mowers.
Great video and very well explained. I too ordered from Green Parts Store. They had instructions noting how much to torque the drain pipe and filter nipple. Always good to torque any fitting to spec.
Oh man!! I wish the gold will stick to your arms like a sugar! You just saved a lots of money to a lot of people in North America! God bless you!!!
Thanks Rick, great video, I've had the kit for a year and now time for first oil change but couldn't quite see how until I saw your video. Joh from Hamilton Ontario Canada
Great video ! I watched it once and went out to the garage and converted my E160. Glad I saw all the conversation about how worthless the EZ change system is. Sorry I paid extra for it.
You did a fine job there Rick. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Richard . Awaiting arrival Of new JDE120 and ordered conversion kit . Now I know how to do conversion from your video. Your video was more than adequate .
Rick, thank you. I just got my parts and now I know how to install the kit! I too sure didn't ever want to pay $40 for a 1/2 Qt oil change!
Sir, this was a great video, especially if it is the first one you have done!!! Thanks
Very professional first timer with dash cam. That’s awesome. Helped me out. Thanks
Great video. I just ordered the kit for my S120. When I bought it last June I thought the easy change would be great. Then I saw how much it costs and how little oil is changed. Will install the kit to be ready for spring.
Found it on green parts store, look up your mower . Kit number fore 120 is AUC 12916 - kit . thanks again for the video.
Thanks, it was good to see the process beforehand!
That was an AWESOME video! Common sense solution. And those new fancy big green filters are over $40 as opposed to around $13 for the one you can use now!
Yogi Beer $13? Even the JD one is like $8.50. Kinda small tho. Did you find a larger filter that works well for $13?
Thank you very much!! Short, sweet, and to the point!
Thanks been wanting to switch to john deere this summer but didn't like the ez change feature. Now I can!
Well done video, no wasted video time with bs thank you
Before this, I would never buy a new john deere coz of the filter which is too expensive and having to push the gas paddle all the while. But after seeing your video and getting one with cruise control, I might just buy me one. Thanks for that info.
Thank you for that video! I have the e120 that my wife bought me. I love it. That was he first thing I noticed was the ez filter. Like you said you only get 1/2 quart out if it. You are only changing the filter! I like the conventional method of oil changing. That has been around for over 100 years and their is a reason why. It works! I also liked the beeps on the end of each task. Again great video!!
Excellent video, I have the kit and now that it’s a little cooler I will be installing mine. Thanks
This video TOTALLY helped me. The "Easy Change" idea SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS. An oil change should remove MOST oil and particulates, not just 45-50% of it. The engineer whom invented this at John Deere should be fired and the marketing person has no idea about what happens to an engine with debris in the oil. SHAME ON JOHN DEERE!!! Cub Cadet peeps are laughing at us. Thanks much for this video!! It got the job done and your video quality was straight to-the-point, sir!
I just bought this mower, and going to change it over in the spring.
Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Let me clarify my comments on RICHARDS SUPERB video here. My point that I was trying to make is that it is pathetic that John Deere did this stupid system. Richard is absolutely correct in that you need to get all the oil out.
Great Video. Richard they should compensate you for the expense of the parts. There should be a coupon or some type of credit that allows you to get compensation for this.
I run my lawn tractor for about 50 hours a season...I change the oil 3 times a year. Spring/Halfway thru the season and then Fall. 250 Plus Hours and I want to get at least 800 Hours. But...You never know with that damn K-46 Transmission.
excellent content, don't worry about video quality - just fine... no BS, bring another when you have a topic... maybe "how to disable foot brake safety switch" ?
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I use a qs3614 oil filter in place of the JD filter. You can cross the QS3614 to other brands I just prefer the Quaker State. The JD filter is puny and nothing special no check valve nothing at all. The QS 3614 fits perfect and is 2x the size and 1/3 the price and available anywhere and fits perfect. The oil supplied in the kit is a standard oil grade of API SM(automotive grade pre 2010). I use a quality API SN grade oil(the current automotive standard) Do it yourself cost with oil is less than 30$. BTW prefill the filter with oil before installing the filter don"t dry start the engine that applies to all engines all oil changes.
Since my mower is still under warranty I'll stick with JD filters & oil but I agree, there are better options. I normally go synthetic.
Great video ! Thanks for the time invested and helping everyone out.
EZ Peazy, Thanks Buddy. Great first video!
Made it look easy....just bought a 130 and will do the same. Thanx!
Great video for a first timer; thanks this helped a lot.
Thanks for the video! I was looking at Deere riders and my heart sank when I saw the crappy "Easy No Change" engine wrecking system had been installed. Thanks for providing clear instructions on how to delete this moronic invention.
Excellent video my friend. Very informative. Hope to see more from you.
What the fook are you? A cheerleader?????
Great Job with the Dash Cam!!!! Bravo Zulu OORAH
Many thanks, job done. No issues. Let’s cut grass !!!
That was a fine video. EZ change system seems like a very bad idea to me also. Thanks.
Home Run. You did well. Thank you
Great video I will convert my JD S130 too.
Thank you!!! Very helpful.
The easy change oil filter is the biggest joke since Bradon.
Thanks. You did great. Its now on my to do list.
Great video sir. I am just doing my tractor now.
Thank you great job and no apology needed. Clear and precise directions and you saved me alot of John Deere money. Poor JD ;>)
great job and good video, it is to the point. I am currently in the market for a new lawn tractor and I've decided against any that has this system on it specifically for the reasons that you changed yours.
Great video Rick! great, easy and $-saving tips!
Great video. Concise and useful info. Thanks for making and posting it. Brum
good video. The screwdriver did work but made me cringe a bit. The only real issue is that you should have lubed the oil filter seal with a bit of oil and HAND TIGHTENED it as tight as you could get it. Never ever use a filter wrench to tighten this type of oil filter. It can damage the filter if you are not careful, and it makes them incredibly hard to remove even using a filter wrench. Other than that you did a great job with good camera work and got right to it without the usual blah blah blah that most guys do!
Great video it helped tons…thank you
Richard, Thanks for posting this video. I'm getting ready to take the riding mower out and start using it again. I've wondered how I could adapt the tractor to a regular oil filter. This has answered my question. I thank you and my John Deer thanks you.
Great video, made conversion easy.
Hey great video, I also have a similar set up. So it helped out me very much
If u can show my channel some support m I would really appreciate it thank u very much
Good job. Very helpful. Thank you.
thanks for that, quick and helpful, any idea what filter options there are other than the JD as another after-market option?
Awesome video, Thanks.
Yes it did help me decide to get the e140 tractor because it is the same as the e150 but doesn't come with the easy change oil kit
They were out of the e140's and said it would be quite some time before getting any. We were in dire need for a new mower so they knocked a couple more dollars off price and we bought the e150. But with the conversion kit all is good.
@@rickb8808 how do you like your mower now the over all performance of the machine and much thanks in advance
@@PACK-ge5gu Really like it, just got it out for the season. I think John Deere has somewhat lowered their quality standards but time will tell. It scalped the yard bad new but the mower deck was way out of adjustment. Thinking of doing a video on adjusting the deck and a couple other things. I'd recommend getting one.
440 6PACK
You must be a Mopar man.
Me too.
‘Cuda, GTX, Dart, Runner, Demon, Satellite Wagon.
I also switched to a Motorcraft FL-400-S oil filter which is a longer filter. It's a third the cost of a JD filter and can be picked up at Wally World. It requires a little more oil when you use one. Been running this filter for years on my LA130.
Thanks for the info. Will look into that.
I wonder if this will work on my D 170
I like the video. Good informations.
Excellent video! Thanks. Looks like you have a mulching cover. Does it work? Do you have special blades?
Yes Donald, my 48" deck has the John Deere mulching cover. It has bad ratings amongst other owners but works for me. When you first put it on it has a tendency to leak a small amount of clipping but stops once the slight gap is filled. For the 48" deck the part number is GY20417. I have been using Oregon Gator blades for years. There are many knock offs so you have to make sure the Oregon sticker is on them. These were the ones for my 48" deck. Have worked great. www.ebay.com/itm/3-Oregon-92-616-Gator-Blades-GX21784-GY20852/183692499639?hash=item2ac4ed1ab7:g:ZrEAAOSwUwFaNb6c
Great video! Well Done! Thanks!
Thanks. I'll be doing this conversion. Also interested in how you removed the side shoot from over the mower deck.
Stephen, if you pause the video at the beginning, you can see by the belt cover towards the front there are 2 studs/bolts sticking up on the deck. The side shoot connects there. I left the nuts on so I wouldn't loose them. I put a mulching cover on and switched out the blades to Oregon "gator" mulching blades. Have had good luck with them in the past.
Great video, thank you. Question, how did you know that the small filter you used is the correct filter for this motor? Thank you.
The Green Parts store, who is a John Deere dealer sells the conversion kit using genuine John Deere parts. Since this video, I have changed the oil a couple times and gotten the filter from my John Deere dealer who is familiar with the conversion kit. www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Easy-Change-Conversion-Kit-AUC12916-KIT.html
The ONLY part of the "Easy Change" system that I like, is the extra large JD oil filter. If money is no concern, continue using the Easy Change oil filter and drain the entire engine, with the drain plug on the other side of the engine as shown in this video. You'll just need to buy a couple extra quarts of oil with every "Easy Change" filter.
Great video. Thanks
Hi Thanks for the info, I'm gonna do the same thing for my john deere. I have a question though, why use permatex on the drain tube and loctite for the filter nipple?
Just personal preference. Locktite on the filter nipple will help from it screwing out with when the filter is removed. Since the drain pipe is steel and the block aluminum, permatex should stop any seepage. There are comments on this post not recommending doing that ?
Thanks. I might look into this because I wound up adding oil after installing the EZ
Great tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
thanks bud!!! $45.00 oil change sucked!!!
I thought the same when I bought the new e-160...I bought the conversion kit (less oil) for lest than $20.
good job and to the point..doing mine now
It was a great video! Thanks!
you say you spray raptor liner through a normal spray gun with reducer for a finer finish , is the finish Good and did you mean the gun was destroyed by the end , thank you
I use a cheap purple Harbor Freight spray gun. U Pol states you can thin Raptor Liner up to 10% with Urethane Thinner. I have found on tintable liner I thin it to a 5% max because of using the tint base which thins it. I prefer a thicker application. I know people who thinned the Raptor liner 10% then added the tint and had excellent results. I spray using the paint tip that came with the gun. Black pre tinted Raptor liner I reduce at 10%. I also suggest a suggestion someone made online to drill the spray tip out to 2.0 mm with the black. I can get the Harbor Freight guns on sale/w coupons under $10. I clean and reuse them but don't get to upset if one is trashed. In actual beds and undercarriage my preference is to just use a shutz gun and not thin it. For body applications and interior floor pans thinned looks better. Seems to hold up fine thinned. Use it lots on rockers front to back on stone chipped areas. Don't get complaints. Lots of You Tube videos on the process. I'm not patient enough to make one on that large of a scale.
I have one question. when you replace the drain plug with the longer extension. Does the side panel fit or does it hit the drain plug? It looks long enough to prevent the panel from going back on.
On my E150 the side panel goes back on with no issues.
@@rickb8808 How long is the drain plug extension?
@@ericstrickland7424 I'll go down to the storage building and measure it tomorrow. It;s still put away for winter
4" from the block to end of extension end cap. From the end of the extension to the plastic cover is 1 - 1/4", plenty of room for plastic cover to go on.
Would you share the torque specs of both the oil drain extension pipe and the oil filter adaptor nipple. BTW, good job!
Can't offer torque specs. Just tighten to feel. I'm old school.
Very helpful video. I am old school also and we can't imagine why some pencil pushing knucklehead came up with these 1/2 qt oil changes. AAAHHHHH, that's right!!! JD would love to sell some service to you or a whole new machine.
During BREAK - IN all the metal shavings have to be removed from any engine to avoid damaging the Bearings, Cylinder Walls, Top end and your WALLET.
Long term reliability and machine's life span depends directly on the correct "Break - In". (learn this skill)
If the manual recommends 7hrs, do one oil change with "Dino" oil at 3.5 hrs and Mobil 1 at 7 hrs. Machine will smile and run forever.
I agree Capt Jay. I am a oil change fanatic. My new John Deere replaced a 17 year old Craftsman that still ran great but deck and tires were shot. I like to check the first oil change for metal and didn't like the fact you couldn't with this ez change system. I cut the filter open and cringed at the amount of oil in it. At that point I decided I needed a plan B. I was surprised when I found the entire kit at such a great price. I've used Castrol oil on my small engines for years. Just a personal preference.
@@rickb8808 m
One issue. The oil drain bolt removal seems impossible. Could not get it off. Seems to be a square pipe plug with Red thread lock which will be hard to remove without a proper socket. I saw another video recommending a 14mm socket might work but it didn’t. The plug metal is too soft and it starts to strip the head....Just be prepared for that.
I used a open end wrench to get mine off ? You can' get much of a turn on it but it works. Mine had the red thread lock also. Thanks for the feed back in case someone else has a issue.
Great video. I have John Deere S160 riding lawnmower. Can you tell me how to search the oil change conversion part in green parts store?
Best thing to do is contact them so your 100 sure. Good people to deal with.
@@rickb8808 thanks a lot.
really helped. thank you!
Very good video. I am getting ready to do the same conversion on my E130. One question....the instructions don't mention using thread sealant. Is it really necessary in your opinion? Thank you.
Because of the engine vibration and the fact your screwing steel into aluminum I opted to use it. I preferred Permatex #2 on the drain tube. Teflon tape on a steel tube screwing it into aluminum rather concerns me. I'd rather use the sealant than have to redo it. On the nipple for the oil filter I used blue lock tite so it doesn't unscrew with the filter. I let it dry a couple hours before installing the filter. Lastly, I contacted John Deere and installing the kit does not affect the warranty using the John Deere parts.
Thank you. Very informative.
When you take that 1 1/8 plug the entire ez filter assembly comes off with it?
The EZ change unit is one piece. When you take the 1 1/8 bolt out the entire assembly comes off. The nipple screws in where the bolt did. The standard oil filter screws onto the nipple. Just picture a regular motor with the threaded nipple where the oil filter screws on. Once you take this 1 1/8" hollow bolt out and the EZ fill unit off your motor will look just like that. Screw the nipple provided in the kit in the threaded hole where the bolt came out and the filter screws on it just like a regular motor. Hope this helps.
Since most small engines don't even have an oil filter, why can't we just leave on the one filter it comes with and just drain and refill the oil conventionally a couple times a season? Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Thank You for the reply Tommy Tester. I imagine that could be an option. I have a very large yard and using John Deere's recommended filter change interval I change my oil a minimum of 3 times a cutting season and I always change oil & filter before putting it away for winter storage. It will be ready for spring. The current price on a ez change filter is $39.99 locally. I can get a John Deere standard filter for $8.99. John Deere oil Qt. $3.97 ea.. Based on three oil & filter changes it would cost me $46.82 for a season. This gives me peace of mind I have clean oil being filtered by a clean filter all season. If I leave the ez change filter on as you suggest against John Deere's recommended change interval and just change the oil it will cost me $39.99 for filter and $11.91 for oil totaling $51.90 for the season. I save nothing plus I am leaving a oil filter on at least twice as long as recommended. I would not personally do that but I'm a maintenance fanatic. If someone had a small yard maybe it would work, but technically using scheduled changes that wouldn't make much difference ?
I thought about that also. I was going to install the drain tube below the starter and drain the crankcase and change the EZ Change filter, but $40.00 for the replacement seemed a little high so I went with the total conversion. Other than the mess, it worked fine.
Oil filter is very cheap maintenance
PS I just ordered from the "Green Parts Store". I hope they give you kudos!
I'm not looking for anything. My neighbor picked up a E150 right after I got mine last fall. He swore by the EZchange system. He changed the oil after the initial break in time and bragged about how it took him 2 minutes. He cut grass once and checked the oil. It was down substantially and he came over and asked me if I had a quart as I normally buy oil & a filter shortly after changing oil to stay stocked up. He asked if I knew anywhere to get the EZchange filter cheaper. Now he would also have to buy a quart of oil every two oil changes if the EZchange cartridge wasn't replenishing all the oil. I talked him into us draining all the oil out through the drain plug just to check it out. I had 2 quarts to replace it. The new EZchange oil with one grass cut on it was dirty with particulates. He wasn't happy. He's almost due for another oil change in mid July and asked me to order the conversion kit and help him change over. When I showed him the price he was shocked how much cheaper it was than the EZchange filter. And after installing the kit it will be even cheaper the next change and you will have clean oil.
Can the residual oil just be sucked out with a vacuum pump style oil evacuator instead of adding the drain tube?
I take it the standard oil filter won’t fit on the easy change filter housing?
I've never used a vacuum pump to remove oil from a small engine ? NO, a standard oil filter will not work on the EZ change filter housing. The housing has to be removed and a nipple screwed into the block per instructions.
I see a lot of hate for this system, and sure I'm not a fan either, but it helps a lot of homeowners at least half maintain their stuff, which a lot of people do NONE of.
Can I use Teflon tape instead epileptic sealant?
I just ordered the oil drain tube
So I can drain the oil.im keeping the big oil filter its pricey but I think it's better then the small ones that's my opinion no one get mad lol
Your choice to keep the big filter, however, the only reason it is so big is because it has to have room for the oil that's in it. If you drain the oil, I imagine you have to buy a qt of oil when changing as you will be draining more oil than what is in the new large filter. I never cut open a ez change filter but the actual filtering portion probably isn't any bigger than the smaller filter.
Great job
This is what Deere says... John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system
The John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system makes changing the engine oil easy, quick, and clean. Changing the oil is as easy as twisting on a new oil-filled filter. Oil does not need to be drained from the engine.
The John Deere Easy Change filter is an additional engine oil reservoir. Changing the filter removes the captured contaminants and replaces about 0.8 qt (0.76 L) of the engine oil.
Compared to the 100 Series traditional oil filter, the Easy Change oil system uses a synthetic filter media material, has more filtering capacity, and has more oil flow capacity, � and the engine system has 40 percent more oil volume.
Everyone who uses the John Deere Easy Change system saves time and avoids the mess of a traditional oil change. In the past, many 100 Series Lawn Tractor owners rarely or never got around to changing their engine oil. With John Deere Easy Change, even owners who previously would not consider changing the oil themselves can easily do it now.
So, I say to deere if this is so why don't they use the quick change system on the E140?
Hello Donald. My mower is a E150 and had EZ change. At that time the E140 and E170 didn't have the system. We went for a E170 and they were sold out so we got the E150. I checked out the new ones a couple weeks ago and the E140 still doesn't use the system but E150, E170 & E180 does ? I originally thought maybe it was only the 25 H.P. v-twins because the E140 is a 22 H.P. v-twin but the E130 is 22 H.P. and uses the system. It may be true the EZ change may allow those mechanically challenged to change their oil. I prefer all clean oil and a filter when changing at less than half the cost of the EZ change cartridge. John Deere dealerships have the conversion kit available and the one I deal with agrees the standard filter allows a complete fresh oil and filter. I'm sure they agree with someone forking out double the cost or more for the EZ change also when they come in.
Couldn't find the conversion kit on green parts web site . Is there a part number or some info to help me out . Thanks
Nice job, great JOHNDEERE marketing to the rescue ? At 60 buck's a pop I don't think so. Oddly they also supply the swap kit.
How has this tractor worked out for after a year?
Like it a lot. Changed oil one time since converting to regular filter. No issues.
How did you open the stock drain plug? It's the 4 sided drain bolt. I had no room to insert and torque an open head wrench!
I used a crowfoot wrench with a ratchet and extension. I just got a cheap set at Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-sae-wrench-set-94426.html
@@rickb8808 thanks alot. What size crowfoot wrench you used to open the stock drain plug?
@@gardenia1738 Not positively sure, but I believe it was 7/16" or 1/2".
@@rickb8808 Thank you sir. The 7/16" crowfoot worked great!