Thanks a lot!!!!, Last night, I put down the driver window, and it didn´t came up any more, as soon as i came back home, i start looking some info in here, so i found the video, and follow it, and i fixed the problem in no time!!!!, it´s an excelent video!!!!, again thanks a lot!!!!
I just think back to all the money I saved due to Bavarian Otto. Literally in the 10’s of thousands. I haven’t hired a mechanic since 2012 for anything other than alignment and tires.
Thanks for posting this video. I own a 2003 BMW 325i. The left front regulator went out after 10 years of service. The mechanic wanted $400 part and labor. I watched this video, bought a good quality after marked regulator and installed my self. I saved hundreds!! Please keep posting videos like these for us "weekend warrior mechanics."
Wow! I have a 2004 BMW325i. All 4 windows have been out for 6 months. I have been suffering not wanting to pay my BMW guy $300 a pop. It all came to a head when we were traveling with a cat and she stepped on the Drivers window switch, rolling the drivers window all the way down! I searched UA-cam and found you guys. Bought the part for $65 and followed your video nearly every step. Even on the drivers side, no surprises. Thanks a bunch, one down and 3 to go!
Great video! I am a 27 year old IT Specialist! I own a 2002 325I BMW sedan. I had never tried to fix a window on any car. Although I can fix laptops! This video made it easy to watch and repair the regulator. My BMW dealer wanted $325 per window to fix my broken ones. I ended up spending $350 for all three parts to fix my FP, FR, RR. I ended up saving a lot of money. Thanks BAVAUTO!
After watching Bavarian Auto's DIY videos and saving thousands of dollars by doing things myself, I only purchase parts from Bav Auto. The videos they post on UA-cam are professional and carefully planned. Great work guys!
It looks like I will be replacing a window regulator on my 02 330I soon. I just want to say thanks to Otto and Bavarian. I bought this care about 3 years ago and Otto's videos have helped me through several repairs. Going forward I plan to purchase all of my parts from Bavarian as my thanks to them for all the repair help via Otto's videos.
I ordered the parts from Bavarian, followed the steps, and the repair went very well. The original motor was shot, and the regulator was worn to the point that the window fell in and would not stay up. The new parts work great, and it was easy to follow the video on my wireless laptop on the roof of the car.
Lol. Less than half. My buddy changed them and I gave him the 120. The BMW service guys charge $270.00 each. Parts and labor. Thank you for the great video, you saved me a couple of $100s.
Once again expert video guides on UA-cam has saved me hundreds of dollars. My regulator completely broke as I could move the window still attached up and down freely. I did this repair myself and my window works perfectly now. Thanks!!
Great video and tutorial, I just replaced my drivers side window regulator, and lowered all my windows to spray silicon spray in the window channels and the rear drivers side regulator is stuck with the window down.
Very helpful resource that gave me the confidence to tackle this project successfully. Some further observations when I did the driver side front regulator on a 2004 E46: 1. The only cable bundle I had to unclip was the one attached to the inside of the door card. 2. Be careful in freeing up the vapor barrier, especially immediately below the window speaker as there are thin ribbon cables in that location that would be very easy to tear/break. 3.The only zip tie needing to be cut was in the top center of the door frame. On an OEM regulator, it goes around the yellow cable guard. 4. No mirror memory module to disconnect on the driver's side. 5. If wire cutters fail to free up the window, you might have to remove the window motor to free up cables that might have wrapped themselves around the big white plastic gear of the regulator. 6. Lucked out with the new OEM regulator as it was lined up in perfect position to secure the window bolts when I manually lowered the window on it. 7. Window bolts take an 8mm socket, but for some odd reason, I had to step down a bit on one of them to a 5/16th to turn it. 8. Ensure the wiring for the window mirror switch is pulled through the opening in the arm rest before you reattach the door card.
+RomeoMike With observation #4, and after further research, it should say "No need to disconnect the mirror memory module on the driver's side." As an aside, there are two mirror memory modules, and in my car, the driver's side module is in the upper right of the door frame.
Today had replaced regulator using this video. Thank you, very helpful. Spent just 1.5 hours for the whole work. I wish you had the similar video for sunroof fixing. Bought parts on your site couple of days ago.
Thanks Bavarian Auto. This video was essential,very detailed, and couldn't have done it without jacking something up if the video hadn't been available. I, along with others, saved a bundle by buying an after market quailty regulator on Ebay ($50) and just spent a little time out of my day. Just wanted to let you guys know that you are appreciated and keep up the awesome work. Thanks again :)-
I know this is an old thread but I have just replace both of my front regulators using this excellent video. Many thanks to Otto for taking the time to share his skills. However, I did a couple of thinks differently. I removed the motor from the regulator before I removed the regulator from the car. You can do it both ways. I had trouble disconnecting the connector on one of my motors so I didn't want to force it. The other thing I did was to leave the 5 regulator nuts loose before lowering the window down and connecting it to the window carriers of the new regulator. I found it a lot easier to marry the two up if I had a little play in the regulator. I say loose but not so much that it rattled. Then, once the window was attached to the carriers correctly, I nipped up the 5 regulator bolts without fully tightening them. I tightened the just enough to allow them to slide a little if a force was applied. I left them like that while testing the new regulator. The reason for doing this is to allow everything in the regulator/window assembly to line up and minimize stress within the assembly during operation. I moved the window up and down through a few cycles and then fully tightened the 5 nuts with the window in the fully down position. I read a lot about these regulators failing and it is always the carriers that fail at the point where they are connected to the cable talurits. I think this might be due to the way that they are assembled. Even the smallest misalignment can result in increased resistance to the movement of the window and that can place greater stress on the cable/carrier harness. By the way, you should lube the window runners too when you are doing this job. Use something like a silicone based spray lube. You might want to order some spare door card clips too. I broke a few trying to put the cards back on the doors. TBH that's the biggest pain in the butt when doing this repair. That's all folks.
Good video. Another helpful tip is to make sure you save or even better, replace the doortrim clips as the black foam on them assist in creating pressure in door shell to deploy the airbag if it's ever needed
thanks so much, this video was spot on, I bought the parts myself for 27 and installed it in about 1 hour (even with my usual mistakes). The window nuts are 8mm not 10mm...other than that it was great. You may want to add if the cables get all locked up, the window won't come down or move. I cut them with metal snips, window dropped right down...accessed the nuts just al little lower than where you suggested...thanks so much
Step by step videos are the best! Thank you for this. Although the text was okay, would have loved to still see the parts of the writing in action too.
Thank you for this video! Just replaced my window regulator on my E46 - would not even have thought about attempting it without this video. Keep it up!
That was a good way to repair your own window regulator, followed the video took my time 2hours bit fiddly in places but works just fine now replacement kit works fine £20.00. Cheep from e bay heavy duty one. Thanks again
Video is professionally done. Great job! A few questions before I decide to start: 1. At 04:46 How would I be able to align the nuts so that are visible given the regulator malfunctions to begin with? 2. At 05:16 How does the window glass stay raised and not fall down?
Good thoughts. thank you. Typically, the ferrule on the cable pulls out of the bracket that moves the window. The cable still works, but it does not lift the window evenly .... and this binds the motor and shuts it off.
In cases where the window regulator will not move, due to a faulty motor or broken parts on the regulator (cable, pulleys, guides, etc), you can cut the two cables that connect the front and rear regulator rails (and move the window guides) and move the window by hand .... in order to get to the window guide attachment bolts. If this does not work, you will have to get creative in using an open-end or box-end wrench and trying to get to the bolts where they are.
This is a straight forward repair for anyone with even a small amount of mechanical skill and a desire to save some money. I do agree it's odd how these regulators fail so frequently. Both my rear ones have failed over the last year in my 2006 330xi. Odd as I rarely have rear seat passengers and those windows are very rarely used. In looking at the parts that have failed, it looks to be sub par materials used in the plastic parts. Thanks for the great video.
The door panel removal is different for the E91 chassis. The E90/91/92/93 Bentley repair manual covers the panel removal. Basically: *pry off arched trim strip, remove the screws behind the trim. *pry off trim cover on the door pull (passenger side only), remove screws. *pry the perimeter clips loose, around the door panel (similar to the video) *Detach clips at top of panel (along window opening) and remove the panel *Unclip latch cable from the pull handle *Disconnect various wiring
@BavarianAuto it is a 2006 325I ,the regulator was replaced,when you have the window in th down position and go to close it ,the window goes up and the comes back down,after the switch is released. The mechanic who replaced the regulator mentioned that "we may have to have the window recalibrated or reprogrammed ". Problem is you cannot close it without hitting the switch in a jogging manor to close-
This is a good video. The best tip mentioned is DON'T remove the two nuts that hold the glass. If you do, you'll turn a 90 minute job into a 150 minute job, unless you have nimble fingers.
i've found the problem. the gear at the motor broke. cable and every seems to work fine. will replace the gear tomorrow. thanks a lot for replying. you've been most helpful. cheers.
Great video, thank you. At the end you talk about resetting the SRS codes. Can this accomplished with an OBD2 scanner/fault code reset? I hope the SRS codes are NOT a dealer issue.
Are you remounting the window to the original regulator, or a new one that has the same window mounting brackets as the original (some aftermarket regulators use a revised mounting bracket)? If the original is being used, the red plastic clips on the window slide behind the regulator sliding brackets, while the bolts that go through the clips (with the captive nuts on the other side of the clips) slide down into the slots on the sliding brackets.
You may need to align the window in the regulator's clamping brackets just a bit. If you slightly loosen the clamping bolts/nuts (not enough for the window to detach) and run the window fully up and fully down, then reclamp, this may help.
It sounds like you have a faulty regulator assembly. Of course, you won't know for sure until you get in there, but we would suspect that the regulator is what needs replacing, not the motor. The E65 and E66 7-series models use the standard cable-style regulators, as shown in the E46 3-series video. We have the regulators showing in our online store at bavauto.com. Just search "window regulator" once you are in our store.
This procedure is great, I'm about to perform this on my e38 as both my drive and passenger windows have gone out. But I have one question - if the motor is dead how do I get the window down in the right place to remove the bolts holding the window as described in the video pause section?
Outstanding video and thanks so much for providing this. I watched it a couple times then started and the whole job took less than 2 hours. Hardest part was actually getting that butyl rubber adhesive removed...a real chore but hey, the job is done, window works flawlessly and this is just one more reason why I buy parts from you guys! Thanks sooooo much. Dealer wanted $460 to do the job!
Thanks for the great step by step tutorial, however; i have followed the same and ended with the airbag light on on the dashboard ! any idea or recommendations ?
@1140ghb Typically, you would need to go in and cut the drive cables on both sides of the glass slide bracket. You would then be able to move the glass by hand.
Thanks for sharing. Have a door rattle in my E83 which I will look at soon. Tried everything outside the vaport barrier but still some slight rattle present.
The E46 models do not require any adjusting after a regulator (or glass) replacement. Some other models do. The Bentley repair manuals for the various BMW chassis will cover these points. Other than this, we don't have a specific issue for your to look at.
We have not produced a DIY for the rear window regulators on the E39 chassis. We have done a replacement and the procedure is rather unique for this model.
Hi, This Video looks great. I have a 118i convertible and both passenger & drivers side windows have stopped working when heavy snow was around. My partner is going to take a look at it but I was wondering if yo have any suggestions on what may be the problem?
Michael, in the comments section of this video you stated that you were having some issues with the window going very slowly. You also stated that you were able to correct it. Can you detail how you accomplished that? Adamcooles@gmail.com Thanks!
This is a great video. I'm using it to replace my passenger side window. I'm running into a problem remounting my window into the window mounting bracket. Does the window go in the back of the bracket and the screw is supposed to slide into the regulator mounts one the mounts are in position as you described? The window will not slide down into place. Any idea's or suggestions? Thanks for your great video
Yes, it is likely that your regulator is binding and needs to be replaced. We have actually had good history with the aftermarket regulators. In fact, some of the design differences look like they would be improvements on the weak areas of the original BMW units.
Thanks for the reply ;). I did it my standard unprofessional way, just got in and took everything apart. Put it back together and its all good :). Thanks once again :)!
Great video, I definitely need to replace the motor on my driver's door of my e46. Also, I have water leaking though the lower seam (above the pocket in the door) on my passenger door. Any idea what causes this? I'm thinking a broken weather seal but that must mean there's a bit of water already in the door for it to be leaking at such a high point. Thanks for any advise.
If you just have broken clips (the round white clips that snap into the door frame), these can be replaced. However, if the black plastic mounts for the clips are coming off the back of the door trim panel (this is fairly common), you will need to replace the panel. We have the clips at bavauto.com.
Awsome videos. I always purchase my parts from you. Question. I have a 1998 318ti. last year the dealership replaced the guides on both driver side and passenger window.. now the passenger window goes down really slow, but goes up fine. Is it the regulator or the motor?
If you wish to take a look to verify if the issue is a faulty regulator vs. motor, you would either need to reassemble everything, or let the ABS fault generate (air bag not installed) and then deal with resetting it. By far, the most common fault is the regulator itself.
If you can notice that the window initially tries to move or you hear the motor "grunting", then likely the regulator is at fault (and is far more common). If you can not make a determination, you'll have to go into it and inspect and/or test the regulator and the motor in order to make a determination.
Awesome!! Very detailed and informative. Had same problem with driver side door. Foolproof instructional video. BMW AUGHT to do a recall on these cheap regulators and motors.
Great video, Can you change the motor without removing the regulator, I have just blown the motor on my 1 series and dont need to change the regulator, thanks!
Thanks, it's back at the BMW garage now - since the problem started when under guarantee, they're still doing the repairs. I get the feeling that they know everything about mechanics and very little about computers, which is why they've changed the motor, wing mirror etc, but the problem persists. It was one of the first 2-dr 118's (I think) so maybe something wasn't quite worked out. But thanks for the comment, I'll definitely ask them if they've tried this.
@GiantSnipe - This sounds like a control module issue, The control module may need to be re-programmed by the BMW dealer. Other than this, we have not seen your specific symptoms.
@dakota4800 - The Z3 uses a mechanical gear and lever type of window regulator (as do all of the older BMW models). The slow operation may be a weak motor, or could be binding in the system. We would suggest that you remove the door panel and have a "look-see". The Bentley repair manual for the Z3 will detail the door panel removal and the regulator and motor removal. Go to bavauto dot com and search "Bentley".
Hello first of all these are great instructions thank you for sharing. Installation went nice and smooth i did not have any problems. My only problem is i forgot to reconnect airbag before i powered car up. Now i have the airbag light on my dashboard. Is there anyway to remove this without going to a mechanic or dealership. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi guys. I have a 2007 328xi wagon with a dead lock actuator, in the passenger front door. I bought a new actuator online, and a trim removal kit. Is the procedure similar at all, between E91 and E46? If you have another video I can reference, that would be great. Otherwise I appreciate any advice. :-] I'd bring it to you for the fix if I still lived in NH. Driving up to visit tomorrow for the weekend, but probably taking my wife's Outback - more cargo space for stuff and my dog. Thanks
What is the window being held up by when you removed the bolts that hold it to the regulator? I'm doing this on an E46 M3 and I have to remove two E7 torx bolts instead of the two bolts you removed at 4:54 in the video.
We do not currently have a DIY on replacing the hood release cable on the E46 3-series chassis. See the Bentley repair manual for the steps in replacing cable assembly. We have the manuals in-stock at bavauto.com. The part number is B305.
Hello, first thanks for the video! Very DIY doable! My question is actually on changing the front right passenger, otherwise known as "Glazing" I recently replaced my window, and it doesnt close all the way unless i put pressure on the window from the outside. Are there any steps or things i need to know when installing a new window? Thanks!
Mohammed Abdulhamid - We cannot reply directly to your comment as it was sent in from Google - You may have misses a phase in the battery disconnect steps or the plug on the airbag module may be incorrectly attached. We would suggest that you reset the warning (erase the fault code) and if it does not return, move on. If it does return, take note of what the fault code is and if it is for the door airbag on the side you worked, go back in and check the connector. We do offer a selection of tools that will read and reset the SRS fault codes (depending on the year & model that you have). A shop can also do the same.
@Badobsession89 If you have ALL of the cables cut, you should be able to move the window by hand. Did you cut the cables on both sides of the glass side brackets?
If you have a later model with a cable operated regulator, then it is likely that the regulator needs to be replaced due to the cable breaking away from the window glide mount.
Bavauto made the first and best videos.
Thanks a lot!!!!, Last night, I put down the driver window, and it didn´t came up any more, as soon as i came back home, i start looking some info in here, so i found the video, and follow it, and i fixed the problem in no time!!!!, it´s an excelent video!!!!, again thanks a lot!!!!
I just think back to all the money I saved due to Bavarian Otto. Literally in the 10’s of thousands. I haven’t hired a mechanic since 2012 for anything other than alignment and tires.
Thanks for posting this video. I own a 2003 BMW 325i. The left front regulator went out after 10 years of service. The mechanic wanted $400 part and labor. I watched this video, bought a good quality after marked regulator and installed my self. I saved hundreds!! Please keep posting videos like these for us "weekend warrior mechanics."
Wow! I have a 2004 BMW325i. All 4 windows have been out for 6 months. I have been suffering not wanting to pay my BMW guy $300 a pop. It all came to a head when we were traveling with a cat and she stepped on the Drivers window switch, rolling the drivers window all the way down! I searched UA-cam and found you guys. Bought the part for $65 and followed your video nearly every step. Even on the drivers side, no surprises. Thanks a bunch, one down and 3 to go!
Great video! I am a 27 year old IT Specialist! I own a 2002 325I BMW sedan. I had never tried to fix a window on any car. Although I can fix laptops! This video made it easy to watch and repair the regulator. My BMW dealer wanted $325 per window to fix my broken ones. I ended up spending $350 for all three parts to fix my FP, FR, RR. I ended up saving a lot of money. Thanks BAVAUTO!
After watching Bavarian Auto's DIY videos and saving thousands of dollars by doing things myself, I only purchase parts from Bav Auto. The videos they post on UA-cam are professional and carefully planned. Great work guys!
It looks like I will be replacing a window regulator on my 02 330I soon. I just want to say thanks to Otto and Bavarian. I bought this care about 3 years ago and Otto's videos have helped me through several repairs. Going forward I plan to purchase all of my parts from Bavarian as my thanks to them for all the repair help via Otto's videos.
And ... thank YOU, Danny!
I ordered the parts from Bavarian, followed the steps, and the repair went very well. The original motor was shot, and the regulator was worn to the point that the window fell in and would not stay up. The new parts work great, and it was easy to follow the video on my wireless laptop on the roof of the car.
Today,you let me save 200 € just with this video. The service asked 280 € but I bought the part for 75 € and did it! Thanks for your efforts!
Lol. Less than half. My buddy changed them and I gave him the 120. The BMW service guys charge $270.00 each. Parts and labor.
Thank you for the great video, you saved me a couple of $100s.
easily the BEST DIY vid on youtube... none of that dizziness inducing shaking camera work... top marks!
Once again expert video guides on UA-cam has saved me hundreds of dollars. My regulator completely broke as I could move the window still attached up and down freely. I did this repair myself and my window works perfectly now. Thanks!!
Great video and tutorial, I just replaced my drivers side window regulator, and lowered all my windows to spray silicon spray in the window channels and the rear drivers side regulator is stuck with the window down.
Thank you so much for the response. The cable was indeed broken, now replaced! Please keep posting useful videos like these! (I have an E46 Coupe)
Very helpful resource that gave me the confidence to tackle this project successfully. Some further observations when I did the driver side front regulator on a 2004 E46:
1. The only cable bundle I had to unclip was the one attached to the inside of the door card.
2. Be careful in freeing up the vapor barrier, especially immediately below the window speaker as there are thin ribbon cables in that location that would be very easy to tear/break.
3.The only zip tie needing to be cut was in the top center of the door frame. On an OEM regulator, it goes around the yellow cable guard.
4. No mirror memory module to disconnect on the driver's side.
5. If wire cutters fail to free up the window, you might have to remove the window motor to free up cables that might have wrapped themselves around the big white plastic gear of the regulator.
6. Lucked out with the new OEM regulator as it was lined up in perfect position to secure the window bolts when I manually lowered the window on it.
7. Window bolts take an 8mm socket, but for some odd reason, I had to step down a bit on one of them to a 5/16th to turn it.
8. Ensure the wiring for the window mirror switch is pulled through the opening in the arm rest before you reattach the door card.
+RomeoMike With observation #4, and after further research, it should say "No need to disconnect the mirror memory module on the driver's side." As an aside, there are two mirror memory modules, and in my car, the driver's side module is in the upper right of the door frame.
Today had replaced regulator using this video. Thank you, very helpful. Spent just 1.5 hours for the whole work.
I wish you had the similar video for sunroof fixing. Bought parts on your site couple of days ago.
Thanks Bavarian Auto. This video was essential,very detailed, and couldn't have done it without jacking something up if the video hadn't been available. I, along with others, saved a bundle by buying an after market quailty regulator on Ebay ($50) and just spent a little time out of my day. Just wanted to let you guys know that you are appreciated and keep up the awesome work. Thanks again :)-
I know this is an old thread but I have just replace both of my front regulators using this excellent video. Many thanks to Otto for taking the time to share his skills. However, I did a couple of thinks differently. I removed the motor from the regulator before I removed the regulator from the car. You can do it both ways. I had trouble disconnecting the connector on one of my motors so I didn't want to force it. The other thing I did was to leave the 5 regulator nuts loose before lowering the window down and connecting it to the window carriers of the new regulator. I found it a lot easier to marry the two up if I had a little play in the regulator. I say loose but not so much that it rattled. Then, once the window was attached to the carriers correctly, I nipped up the 5 regulator bolts without fully tightening them. I tightened the just enough to allow them to slide a little if a force was applied. I left them like that while testing the new regulator. The reason for doing this is to allow everything in the regulator/window assembly to line up and minimize stress within the assembly during operation. I moved the window up and down through a few cycles and then fully tightened the 5 nuts with the window in the fully down position. I read a lot about these regulators failing and it is always the carriers that fail at the point where they are connected to the cable talurits. I think this might be due to the way that they are assembled. Even the smallest misalignment can result in increased resistance to the movement of the window and that can place greater stress on the cable/carrier harness. By the way, you should lube the window runners too when you are doing this job. Use something like a silicone based spray lube. You might want to order some spare door card clips too. I broke a few trying to put the cards back on the doors. TBH that's the biggest pain in the butt when doing this repair. That's all folks.
Excellent and helpful video, not glamorised and well put across in plain English, well done and tx
Thanks for the good words.
We're glad you have the window regulator fixed. Keep up the good DIY maintenance.
Good video. Another helpful tip is to make sure you save or even better, replace the doortrim clips as the black foam on them assist in creating pressure in door shell to deploy the airbag if it's ever needed
thanks so much, this video was spot on, I bought the parts myself for 27 and installed it in about 1 hour (even with my usual mistakes). The window nuts are 8mm not 10mm...other than that it was great. You may want to add if the cables get all locked up, the window won't come down or move. I cut them with metal snips, window dropped right down...accessed the nuts just al little lower than where you suggested...thanks so much
Just repaired mine with the help of this video. I used cable ties to tie the little nib into the holder. A really useful video! Thanks!
Step by step videos are the best! Thank you for this. Although the text was okay, would have loved to still see the parts of the writing in action too.
Thank you for this video! Just replaced my window regulator on my E46 - would not even have thought about attempting it without this video. Keep it up!
That was a good way to repair your own window regulator, followed the video took my time 2hours bit fiddly in places but works just fine now replacement kit works fine £20.00. Cheep from e bay heavy duty one. Thanks again
@BavarianAuto Got it! It worked after I cut the third, vertical cable that's attached to the cable guide clip. Much appreciated.
Excellent tutorial: followed it (almost) step-for-step and got the window working again. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. My dad and I were able to fix a VMW copilot window. Your tips and adiveces are the best.
Video is professionally done. Great job! A few questions before I decide to start:
1. At 04:46 How would I be able to align the nuts so that are visible given the regulator malfunctions to begin with?
2. At 05:16 How does the window glass stay raised and not fall down?
This is a very good video. Clear and easy to understand. Thanks.
I learned to do my BMW X5 without problem now.
Good thoughts. thank you.
Typically, the ferrule on the cable pulls out of the bracket that moves the window. The cable still works, but it does not lift the window evenly .... and this binds the motor and shuts it off.
Had a quote from an independent. 400 smackeroos! I bought the regulator and replaced it in less than an hour!
In cases where the window regulator will not move, due to a faulty motor or broken parts on the regulator (cable, pulleys, guides, etc), you can cut the two cables that connect the front and rear regulator rails (and move the window guides) and move the window by hand .... in order to get to the window guide attachment bolts. If this does not work, you will have to get creative in using an open-end or box-end wrench and trying to get to the bolts where they are.
Thanks for the encouraging words. We hate camera shake too!
Amazing video. Just did mine on the drivers side, this helped me so much!! Thank you
This is a straight forward repair for anyone with even a small amount of mechanical skill and a desire to save some money. I do agree it's odd how these regulators fail so frequently. Both my rear ones have failed over the last year in my 2006 330xi. Odd as I rarely have rear seat passengers and those windows are very rarely used. In looking at the parts that have failed, it looks to be sub par materials used in the plastic parts. Thanks for the great video.
The door panel removal is different for the E91 chassis. The E90/91/92/93 Bentley repair manual covers the panel removal. Basically: *pry off arched trim strip, remove the screws behind the trim. *pry off trim cover on the door pull (passenger side only), remove screws. *pry the perimeter clips loose, around the door panel (similar to the video) *Detach clips at top of panel (along window opening) and remove the panel *Unclip latch cable from the pull handle *Disconnect various wiring
Excellent work!!! Please continue making more videos like this. Thanks a lot
@BavarianAuto
it is a 2006 325I ,the regulator was replaced,when you have the window in th down position and go to close it ,the window goes up and the comes back down,after the switch is released.
The mechanic who replaced the regulator mentioned that "we may have to have the window recalibrated or reprogrammed ". Problem is you cannot close it without hitting the switch in a jogging manor to close-
Lol, this video saved me from a 775$ quote. Bought a regulator for 26$ and did it myself on 1.5hrs. I know nothing about cars besides I like em. Peace
Help me Jake. My windows wont roll up
Jake from where did you got the regulator
Just accepted the poor quality waste money to replace and replace again or is bmw guaranteed highly improved version???
Save your 26 just leave the windows as it is and don’t waste good money going after bad money
This is a good video. The best tip mentioned is DON'T remove the two nuts that hold the glass. If you do, you'll turn a 90 minute job into a 150 minute job, unless you have nimble fingers.
i've found the problem. the gear at the motor broke. cable and every seems to work fine. will replace the gear tomorrow. thanks a lot for replying. you've been most helpful. cheers.
Real people doing real work !
Great video, thank you.
At the end you talk about resetting the SRS codes. Can this accomplished with an OBD2 scanner/fault code reset? I hope the SRS codes are NOT a dealer issue.
Are you remounting the window to the original regulator, or a new one that has the same window mounting brackets as the original (some aftermarket regulators use a revised mounting bracket)? If the original is being used, the red plastic clips on the window slide behind the regulator sliding brackets, while the bolts that go through the clips (with the captive nuts on the other side of the clips) slide down into the slots on the sliding brackets.
thanks for the video followed it step by step and replaced the regulator today without any problems.
You may need to align the window in the regulator's clamping brackets just a bit. If you slightly loosen the clamping bolts/nuts (not enough for the window to detach) and run the window fully up and fully down, then reclamp, this may help.
It sounds like you have a faulty regulator assembly. Of course, you won't know for sure until you get in there, but we would suspect that the regulator is what needs replacing, not the motor. The E65 and E66 7-series models use the standard cable-style regulators, as shown in the E46 3-series video. We have the regulators showing in our online store at bavauto.com. Just search "window regulator" once you are in our store.
This procedure is great, I'm about to perform this on my e38 as both my drive and passenger windows have gone out. But I have one question - if the motor is dead how do I get the window down in the right place to remove the bolts holding the window as described in the video pause section?
Outstanding video and thanks so much for providing this. I watched it a couple times then started and the whole job took less than 2 hours. Hardest part was actually getting that butyl rubber adhesive removed...a real chore but hey, the job is done, window works flawlessly and this is just one more reason why I buy parts from you guys! Thanks sooooo much. Dealer wanted $460 to do the job!
Good work, Ed!
Try cutting the two cables (using cable cutters). This will often allow you to move the window to a position where you can access the fasteners.
Thanks for the great step by step tutorial, however; i have followed the same and ended with the airbag light on on the dashboard ! any idea or recommendations ?
@1140ghb
Typically, you would need to go in and cut the drive cables on both sides of the glass slide bracket. You would then be able to move the glass by hand.
Thank you so very much. Clear and concise. Perfect direction.
Thanks for sharing. Have a door rattle in my E83 which I will look at soon. Tried everything outside the vaport barrier but still some slight rattle present.
The E46 models do not require any adjusting after a regulator (or glass) replacement. Some other models do. The Bentley repair manuals for the various BMW chassis will cover these points. Other than this, we don't have a specific issue for your to look at.
We have not produced a DIY for the rear window regulators on the E39 chassis. We have done a replacement and the procedure is rather unique for this model.
Hi, This Video looks great. I have a 118i convertible and both passenger & drivers side windows have stopped working when heavy snow was around. My partner is going to take a look at it but I was wondering if yo have any suggestions on what may be the problem?
Thank you. I couldn't have done this without your excellent video.
Michael, in the comments section of this video you stated that you were having some issues with the window going very slowly. You also stated that you were able to correct it. Can you detail how you accomplished that? Adamcooles@gmail.com
Thanks!
@cvidales1 -
The E90 chassis (3-series 06-11/12) does have module controlled window operation. You may indeed have to have a "reprogram" performed.
Fantastic video, solved the problem
This is a great video. I'm using it to replace my passenger side window. I'm running into a problem remounting my window into the window mounting bracket. Does the window go in the back of the bracket and the screw is supposed to slide into the regulator mounts one the mounts are in position as you described? The window will not slide down into place. Any idea's or suggestions?
Thanks for your great video
Followed your directions and the demo. It worked perfectly, thank you! Vince
Yes, it is likely that your regulator is binding and needs to be replaced. We have actually had good history with the aftermarket regulators. In fact, some of the design differences look like they would be improvements on the weak areas of the original BMW units.
Thanks for the reply ;). I did it my standard unprofessional way, just got in and took everything apart. Put it back together and its all good :). Thanks once again :)!
thank you for this great video. It saves my money.
@ErnestoJardinero -
Great way to go. Thanks for your comments!
Great video. I would also like to know how to find and replace the cable that opens the hood on my 2000 328ci. Thanks so much!
Great video, I definitely need to replace the motor on my driver's door of my e46. Also, I have water leaking though the lower seam (above the pocket in the door) on my passenger door. Any idea what causes this? I'm thinking a broken weather seal but that must mean there's a bit of water already in the door for it to be leaking at such a high point. Thanks for any advise.
If you just have broken clips (the round white clips that snap into the door frame), these can be replaced. However, if the black plastic mounts for the clips are coming off the back of the door trim panel (this is fairly common), you will need to replace the panel. We have the clips at bavauto.com.
Awsome videos. I always purchase my parts from you. Question. I have a 1998 318ti. last year the dealership replaced the guides on both driver side and passenger window.. now the passenger window goes down really slow, but goes up fine. Is it the regulator or the motor?
If you wish to take a look to verify if the issue is a faulty regulator vs. motor, you would either need to reassemble everything, or let the ABS fault generate (air bag not installed) and then deal with resetting it. By far, the most common fault is the regulator itself.
Thank you so much. Did this today with my son. Perfect
Glad we were able to help, Carl.
If you can notice that the window initially tries to move or you hear the motor "grunting", then likely the regulator is at fault (and is far more common). If you can not make a determination, you'll have to go into it and inspect and/or test the regulator and the motor in order to make a determination.
Awesome!! Very detailed and informative. Had same problem with driver side door. Foolproof instructional video. BMW AUGHT to do a recall on these cheap regulators and motors.
I'm going to working on my driver's side motor. you mentioned of having problems with drivers side door...what kinds problems did you experience?
Timothy Johnson No worries! Sold it and bought a lexus:)
Timothy Johnson
- What problems are you experiencing, Timothy?
Thanks for this video! BMW dealership in Sacramento wants to charge me $400 for parts and labor. After watching this video I'm bout to do it myself.
@kewonsingleton -
Great story! We're glad we could help.
Great video, Can you change the motor without removing the regulator, I have just blown the motor on my 1 series and dont need to change the regulator, thanks!
Thanks for posting this video, it helped me out a lot.
Thanks, it's back at the BMW garage now - since the problem started when under guarantee, they're still doing the repairs. I get the feeling that they know everything about mechanics and very little about computers, which is why they've changed the motor, wing mirror etc, but the problem persists. It was one of the first 2-dr 118's (I think) so maybe something wasn't quite worked out. But thanks for the comment, I'll definitely ask them if they've tried this.
@GiantSnipe -
This sounds like a control module issue, The control module may need to be re-programmed by the BMW dealer. Other than this, we have not seen your specific symptoms.
Thanks for a very very nice guide !!
@dakota4800 -
The Z3 uses a mechanical gear and lever type of window regulator (as do all of the older BMW models). The slow operation may be a weak motor, or could be binding in the system. We would suggest that you remove the door panel and have a "look-see". The Bentley repair manual for the Z3 will detail the door panel removal and the regulator and motor removal. Go to bavauto dot com and search "Bentley".
Thanks for your fantastic Video!!! Do you have one for repairing the sunshade on this model??
great video thanx...my window is a little off though...it goes up slow and stops half way..i bring it down slightly..then it goes up fast..
Hello first of all these are great instructions thank you for sharing. Installation went nice and smooth i did not have any problems. My only problem is i forgot to reconnect airbag before i powered car up. Now i have the airbag light on my dashboard. Is there anyway to remove this without going to a mechanic or dealership. Any help would be appreciated.
followed your directions, GREAT !!!!!
Hi guys. I have a 2007 328xi wagon with a dead lock actuator, in the passenger front door. I bought a new actuator online, and a trim removal kit. Is the procedure similar at all, between E91 and E46? If you have another video I can reference, that would be great. Otherwise I appreciate any advice. :-] I'd bring it to you for the fix if I still lived in NH. Driving up to visit tomorrow for the weekend, but probably taking my wife's Outback - more cargo space for stuff and my dog. Thanks
What is the window being held up by when you removed the bolts that hold it to the regulator? I'm doing this on an E46 M3 and I have to remove two E7 torx bolts instead of the two bolts you removed at 4:54 in the video.
We do not currently have a DIY on replacing the hood release cable on the E46 3-series chassis. See the Bentley repair manual for the steps in replacing cable assembly. We have the manuals in-stock at bavauto.com. The part number is B305.
Hello, first thanks for the video! Very DIY doable! My question is actually on changing the front right passenger, otherwise known as "Glazing" I recently replaced my window, and it doesnt close all the way unless i put pressure on the window from the outside. Are there any steps or things i need to know when installing a new window? Thanks!
How do I know whether it is the regulator or motor that is messed up?
Mohammed Abdulhamid - We cannot reply directly to your comment as it was sent in from Google - You may have misses a phase in the battery disconnect steps or the plug on the airbag module may be incorrectly attached. We would suggest that you reset the warning (erase the fault code) and if it does not return, move on. If it does return, take note of what the fault code is and if it is for the door airbag on the side you worked, go back in and check the connector.
We do offer a selection of tools that will read and reset the SRS fault codes (depending on the year & model that you have). A shop can also do the same.
@ BavarianAuto
Thank you for the vid. You are the man.
@Badobsession89
If you have ALL of the cables cut, you should be able to move the window by hand. Did you cut the cables on both sides of the glass side brackets?
Can you please tell me the name of the tools you use? Especially that crow bar looking thing...
If you have a later model with a cable operated regulator, then it is likely that the regulator needs to be replaced due to the cable breaking away from the window glide mount.
Thanks! Love Bavarian Otto