Changing a broken freehub body on a Shimano bike wheel
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Changing a broken freehub body on a Shimano bike wheel but not sure where to start? Don't worry - our step-by-step guide will walk you through the process of replacing it. Learn how to identify a broken freehub body, choose the right replacement, and install it yourself. With our expert tips and detailed instructions, you'll be back on the road in no time.
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00:00 - Start
00:07 - Support our channel
00:31 - Introduction
00:42 - What is a freehub and how does it work
01:09 - How to find the correct Shimano freehub replacement
01:58 - List of tools required
03:23 - Preparation
04:10 - Removing a broken freehub from the Shimano wheel
06:53 - Fitting the new Shimano hreehub body
09:35 - What to do if the axle doesn't spin smoothly?
10:15 - What to do if there's a play in the wheel hub?
11:48 - Thanks for watching. Don't forget to leave a comment.
#shimano #bikemaintenance #FreehubReplacement #cyclingtips #diybikerepair #bikemechanic #bicyclemaintenance #bicyclemaintenancebasics - Спорт
The best explanation on youtube.
Hi, thanks a lot for the compliment! I'm glad you found the explanation helpful. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!🙂
This video saved me a lot of trouble. Can't thank you enough 🙏
awesome video, love the close ups, thank you
Thanks David, I'm glad that you like my way of filming🙂
Great detail, thank you.
You're welcome. I'm glad it was helpful!
Very useful video. Nowhere else I have seen the method mentioned hoew to find out the correct replacement... Thanks for it!
Hi, and thanks for your great comment.🙏 I'm glad you found the video useful! It's great to know that the method for finding the correct replacement was helpful to you. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask.🙂
Great video. I remember once trying to "service" a Shimano free hub body. It definitely came apart, and best I remember there were immediately about 10,500 TINY bearings EVERYWHERE. Believe it or not, I found them all and managed to get them packed back in (both sides!) and finished the service. Moral of the story (for me anyway) was the main hub bearings are easy to service - the freehub body, not so much. Probably easier to either squirt some lube in there from the outside, or just replace it!
Hi, and thanks for your comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Your experience with servicing a Shimano freehub body definitely sounds like quite the adventure. Kudos to you for managing to get them all packed back in and successfully finishing the service. Yes, I agrre with you, make your life easier and just replace the freehub. Especially that they are not that expensive.
Thank you for the great video.
You're most welcome. let me know if you stuck with anything else or need more advice!
Thank you for the great video! This helps me a lot!
You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful for you. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!🙂
Good job RJ 👌
Thanks, what a compliment😉👍
Great video detailed tutorial 👌
Love your content ❤
Hi, and thanks very much for your kind words! I'm delighted to hear that you found the tutorial helpful and enjoyed the content. If you have any suggestions for future videos or any questions, feel free to let me know. Your support means a lot! ❤️
Great info.
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. I'm pleased to hear that you found the information in the video useful. 🙂
Very much appreciated
👍
Don't magnetize your bearing balls. Use a ball bearing tweezers instead. Also, some freehub bodies take 11, 12, or 14 mm hex wrenches.
Hi and thanks for your tips. Using tweezers to remove bearings is a good practice however using a pen magnet to remove bearings from a hub typically shouldn't cause issues with magnetization. However, it's important to be cautious and not leave the bearings in contact with the magnet for an extended period of time, as this could potentially magnetize them. Many tutorials recommend using magnets because they can make the process easier and more efficient. Just be mindful of how long the bearings are in contact with the magnet to minimise the risk of magnetization.
When it comes to the 11mm and 12mm allen key sizes for freehub body axle bolts, other brands utilise these sizes. In Shimano's case, 10mm allen keys are used to remove the freehub body axle bolts, appart from XTR 970/975, XT 770/775, Saint 810, and Dura-Ace 7850/7900 that utilise 14mm allen key.
Great! Thanx!
Thanks!
Hey Rob! Thanks so much for the generous $2!🙏 I'm glad that you found my video helpful.
Your support means a lot and helps me to create more content like this. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out.
From my experience:
Axle on detached wheel could be spinning freely, but just loose it extra very very little. After locking scewers axle is "tightened" a bit more and after it will be kust enough for free spinning vs too much tighteness.
Hi, and thanks for sharing the extra tip with other viewers!🙂
Nice tip on the si Shimano site,thanks! I have a through axle on my bike , is the process basically the same?
Yes, the process is similar, but you've inspired me with a great idea to create a video specifically addressing the replacement of the freehub body on thru axle wheels. 😊
Just got my whole wheel apart from a second hand bike. The body just fell out, body lock nut wasn't tight, afraid the thread inside the hub is stripped 😢
Hey, thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear that, it must be really frustrating!
How do you get the double sealed bearings out?
Is it possible I need a 16mm cone spanner on a Shimano hub? The lock nut seems to be 17mm, which I have. But my 15mm does not fit on the cone (about 1mm out)
Hi George, thanks for your question. It's an interesting one. I'm not aware of Shimano ever using cones thet fit16mm cone spanners. Could it be manufacturing fault? Or maybe someone serviced it before and didn't use genuine replacement cone? If you find out let us know. Good luck!
@@cyclemaintenanceacademy Thanks for the reply! You were correct to slightly doubt me! It was in fact a 15mm. My problem was I was using a more generic (thicker) spanner rather than the thinner cone spanner (to my understanding). Found my cone spanner (15 mm) and on it went. Sorted- thanks
Can this not be done without taking the rotor off?
Hi, and thanks for your question. It would be great to avoid removing the rotor. However, in most cases, the rotor blocks access to the cone and you will not be able to fit the 15mm cone spanner. You need to hold the cone in place when loosening and tightening the lock nut on the non-drive side. Let me know if this makes sense🙂
Can convert it to XD driver?
Wow that hub was from Malaysia
yep, it was🙂
hex 10 does not fit for me, do i need a bigger one ?
Hi, interesting. Can you send me the hub's unique model number?
11 and 12 are more common for sealed freehub bodies
No number on the hub
Hi Stephen, thanks for your comment. If your Shimano hub doesn't have a model number, but you're sure it's a Shimano, take off the old freehub part and bring it to your local bike shop. They can help you find a matching replacement. You can also check online pictures, but keep in mind that some might not show the real product - they could be just for show. I hope this helps.🙂
Dude put on some gloves though!
Thanks, I use a barrier cream🙂
This video! 🙌🏻
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I have watched, i think all of your videos. I have to admit that your videos are THE BEST on UA-cam! I have question and would be very happy if you could answer it.
My hub model number is : WH-RX010 pa/SF. The thing is 10mm doesn't open it. It seems to be to small. I do not know how to open it.
Than k You!
Thank you so much for your kind words and for being a dedicated viewer! I appreciate your support. Regarding your question about removing the freehub body (Y48U98050) on the Shimano wheel - WH-RX010 that's interesting.
I've confirmed this information by consulting the Shimano manuals, and the appropriate tool for your hub should indeed be a 10mm allen key. Make sure to turn it anti-clockwise to loosen it. You may also want to try another 10mm allen key as your old one might be worn out.
If this doesn't help consider visiting your local bike shop. They should be able to provide you with a solution. Let me know how you got on.