Shimano Freehub Service
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- Опубліковано 13 лис 2021
- Replacing an old Shimano Freehub is expensive if you have to buy a new wheel with it or sometimes impossible if it is now obsolete. Sometimes it just gets a little sticky as the grease dries up which is especially apparent in winter as the cold weather stiffens up the old, dried-out grease and the hub begins to slip. This can be inconvenient or even dangerous if it happens on a busy road.
There is a cheaper and less wasteful way to fix the hub and make it as good as new and that is to service it yourself. You will need some special tools but they are not too expensive and anyway, they're cheaper than a new wheel and hub.
This video explains how to remove, split the hub, clean and degrease everything then reassemble and refit.
You just have to be careful with the loose ball bearings and put them back in the same side of the hub and axle as they came from.
Here's the tool kit I used which is available on US amazon.com: amzn.to/3QlDWQj
Here's the tool kit I bought that can be found on UK amazon.co.uk: amzn.to/3qk8FDq
Here you can get from 10mm to 19mm Allen key wrench for the freehub retainer bolt, check which size you need as they vary: US Amazon.com - amzn.to/3N3kqqw
10mm to 19mm Allen Key UK amazon.co.uk: amzn.to/43gO01I
Should you find that your freehub is too far gone for refurbishment, here's a link to a bunch of Shimano Freehubs if you need to replace it on US amazon.com: amzn.to/3vZDZut
(Check the freehub model carefully as they are very different and varied or could even be obsolete).
Shimano Freehubs on UK amazon.co.uk:
www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=shimano+...
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn a small fee by linking to Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.com and affiliated sites. - Авто та транспорт
As a few viewers have pointed out that I didn't cover how to split the freehub in much detail at around 2:00 minutes into the video, I will include a few more details here:
The double-notched cone nut was very tight and I didn’t have the proper tool so along with a friend, we put a sturdy screwdriver in each notch and then hammered them together in sync, clockwise until we cracked the tight seal! Then you can loosen the 10mm central Allen bolt and knock the notched cone nut around clockwise til it comes out. Having the proper tool with the two lugs for the notches would make the job much easier!
Here's a great video of how to make your own double lug tool that fits into the double notched cone nut to help split the freehub, you'll have to measure the hole to check what sized socket will fit though as the freehub sizes can be different:
ua-cam.com/video/1qBk5pePGRg/v-deo.html
You hammered screwdrivers? Remind me never to lend you any tools!
Perfect, just what I needed to know. I've not serviced a hub since the 80s, and freehubs weren't invented then.
Very nice tutorial, clear, concise with no B.S. or waffle. I have a similar job to do and it's very useful to know what's inside before taking things apart.
A great video - excellent and you are to be congratulated. Thank you. As someone has mentioned previously, needs plenty of patience, and perhaps taking photos to remember which way the axle goes back in! The next bike will be a lot easier - and quicker...
Thanks for that video. I didn't know dust caps were a thing and spent WAY too much time fishing for the balls inside. Hopefully I found this before I lost my mind trying to put the balls back.
Excellent walkthrough, thank you.
This is a very useful video , you are right , a bit of detail on how to get the counter clockwise nut/ ball bearing cup off would have helped . I shall be trying to make the removal tool tomorrow. I simply have not been able to source the correct replacement freehub for the job so disassembly is the last resort 🤞🏿
Very good well presented clear concise video.Thanks!
Nice video
I need to repack my Rear hub with grease
Gracious work 👍🏻
Great video - exactly to the point - thank you so much
Nice tutorial!
Very good tutorial.
For the new models you’ll need a 11mm allen key and “a lot of patience”as well
Still 10mm Atleast i could use a 10mm For the thru axle ones you need a massive 14 or 15mm tho.
Bery informative, i have the no drive hub now and then just trying to work out whats best strip it or just new one as i dont have specialist tools.
Super video, thanks
Thank you for the video!!
This grate Tutorial /// Thank you Sir!
Pretty good video.
Excellent ❤️
I wish mine would be this easy to get off.. That cone is torqued down by Hulk😂😂😂😂😂
Listen, mate, it would be good to pin a comment letting people know about the bit you "glossed over". I spent ages on this, after buying a lockring removal tool, only to find I can't get into the freehub without another special tool or risk whacking it with a pair of screw-drivers.
And it's also worth noting that you can degrease and re-lubricate the freehub without disassembling it - just soak it in mineral oil or similar, keep taking it out and turning it, and you should wash most of the old oil and grit out, then re-lube along between the moving parts, repeatedly turning the mechanism again. ua-cam.com/video/iQ6XgztsfmU/v-deo.html
No way my cup is going to come out by poking it with a tiny screwdriver, the way it's shown here. Thanks for your comment; I was wondering what was wrong with me and/or my freehub.
What is the bearing size in the freehub body? I mean the bearing which have 25.
Also, when removed the cup which holds the hub bearing (not freehub), I see it is clockwise but when inserted back is counter clockwise?
You used chain lube?
I don't suggest using just 15mm and 17mm to adjust the rebound when you want the axle to be as smooth as possible because literally you need a bench vise for it. There is a good chance that your 17mm lock nut will move together in the other side.
Denk wel dat helemaal goed uit leggen
Denk wel dat helemaal goed
thanks for sharing. im wondering if its really necessary to remove the hole freehub body, or using the tool (with 2 grip points) to have access to bearings. om my bike, its a cartridge bearings. i tried to remove from the non drive side with a 12mm Alen key but its way to tight. looking to the construction of the hub, im wondering if i really need to take it out, or simply opeining from the drive side...what you think? thanks
Hi Gledii, that’s a very interesting idea, I never tried that! I guess if you can get the bearing cup (with the two notches in it) off, without removing the central Allen key retaining bolt, the outer case of the Freehub might slide off giving access to all the inner small bearings! Let us know if you try it and if it worked!
I did find that, that bearing cup was super tight and you have to undo it clockwise (ie the reverse of a normal bolt or nut)
The thing is that my frehub has cartridges instead of the free bearings. I ordered the 2 notches tool and will post it if works... Thanks
At time 2:00 did you use a screwdriver to loosen, or did you make or buy a tool to loosen it. How tight was it?
That’s a good question which I kind of glossed over in the video. It was very tight and I didn’t have the proper tool so along with a friend, we put a sturdy screwdriver in each notch then hammered them together in sync, clockwise until we cracked the tight seal! Then you can loosen the 10mm central Allen bolt and knock the notched cone nut around clockwise til it comes out. Having the proper tool with the two lugs for the notches would make the job much easier!
@7:46 Locknut has to go in opposite side
The flat untextured surface side needs to be adjacent to the angular - contact bearing nut .
Are these kind of free hub can be replaced to 4 pawls or 6 pawls freehub?
Hi Rommel
I'm not sure it you can change the hub. I guess if the drive cog is the same and the gear cassette fits than it may work but I've never tried this.
The reason I chose to service my freehub is that when I went to a bike shop to get it fixed, they said it would cost too much in labour time to service and that the freehub is probably no longer available as it was about 14 years old. They suggested to replace the wheel and the freehub as a new unit but that would cost about £80 plus labour.
So I decided to buy the extraction tools and do it myself.
mine has 2 pawls, I would like more also
What model of Shimano Rear Hub is that pls?
Only 2 pawls? 😢
Does Shimano 105 FH R5800 hubs have 3 pawls? Tnx if ever.
I believe my hub is the: Shimano Hyperglide C8 - Freehub. It’s probably obsolete by now though! There are so many different types with different drive sprockets.
so how tight did you adjust the cones?
I wound the cones in til they just touch the ball bearings, then wind them back 1/8 to 1/4 turn to make sure they didn’t bind. Then with a cone spanner on the cone, carefully tighten the lock nut onto the cone with another spanner! Check the cone didn’t move during tightening by spinning the wheel and making sure it spins freely without binding.
@@geartechstuff3592This video was easier to understand than "monkeyshred's" version . The two notch freehub disassembly tool is readily available on ebay or at a good bicycle shop , or on aliexpress . The aliexpress ones work quite well .
@@geartechstuff3592The second cone has to move inwards very slightly till the play almost disappears . Skewer preload should make it spot on .
But the thumbnail shows a different type of hub. That's the video I'm looking for
Frank, the thumbnail shows the inner workings of the Freehub in the video with the outer casing removed.
@@geartechstuff3592 different from my hub I guess, thanks.
There are many types and use different size Allen wrenches, i tried 10 and 12 mm both are too small. I got it off using a red neck tool, at least 15 mm
I just did this rebuild. One of the pawls detached and I didn't know how to attach it. Anyone know how?
I couldn't find a video. I layed it in its correct location and reassembled. It works, but I don't trust it.
Consult the exploded view (ev) for the shimano hub in question. That shows how the parts go together, no guessing.
This type of ring mechanism are the worst if get rusted will easily break better to have spring type pawal mechanism in freewheel
Question is how you would know check the back side of freewheel if you see four holes then buy it install it if you don't then it has ring type of mechanism
What size of spring? 20mm 0r 26mm?
I’m sorry Ali, I didn’t remove the spring or measure it as it was in good working order! I’m sure it’s bigger than 20mm though.
Some chain oil is too sticky, use grease is better.
Grease is too thick thatll make it sticky wtf are you saying
@@simonooink940 yes wtf shimano cable grease (white) !!
I just removed my Shimano FH-M525A freehubs (two units) and I did not see any grease on the seal face or the body fixing bolt. Instead, what I saw seemed to be a heavy gear-type oil, but definitely not grease.
I use to use Parktool CL1 apply to freehub because I think it will lube the freehub. But i'm wrong, freehub can't free while riding. So i remove freehub and cleaning all part with WD-40. Then apply shimano premium grease (green) inside the freehub's body and a little on spring to prevent from rust but not apply at paw. It's work.
I think chain oil will mix with dust and rust inside the freehub. So it cause the paw unable to move as it should be. But if you usually clean the freehub, chain oil may help lubricate.
Only piece of advice I would add to this video is cleaning the cogs of old grease and oil. Why? Because the chain can pick up that contamination and spread it throughout the chain, as well as to front chainrings.
Grease looks too thin.
save a lot of grief just buy a new freehub instead. those parts are a pain to get and tools needed you will use only once. just took it to a bike shop and swapped it out.
I think I agree with you. I'm sure mine has Norfolk sand in it from a recent bikepacking trip.
I'd be ok taking it off but I'm not sure about the servicing of it.
Instead of making up new names for almost every part you’d be a lot more credible if you called them the right names. Shimano ev’s and parts lists are your friends.