Anyone else use these vlogs to fall asleep 😆 , i find it easy to drop off listening to mr o as you have that complete reasurance thats its going to get fixed 👌
I usually talk shit about GM but my moms 2001 3100 Malibu went 270,000 miles before dying. Needed a fuel pump, fuel filter, many water pumps, several thermostats, ECT sensors, spark plug wires, a coil, brakes, oil changes, tires, an engine mount, belt, radiator, and a lower intake manifold gasket before she finally got crashed into by an elderly lady at Walmart. If it wasn’t so crushed I think we would’ve kept that one around in the family longer. I was much surprised. However when she bought it from the dealer at 20,000 miles they had switched out that dexcool entirely. That engine never saw dexcool to our knowledge.. ran straight green stuff.. so I think that’s what made all the difference in the world imo.
"I did what anyone would do, I called Keith". Awesome. It's great when people come together to attack at issue. I'm enjoyed these videos that include your thought process.
Well, worked on few 3.1 liters. This happens alot on those 3.1 liters. Whenever I've work on any 3.1 liter that temp sensor always needed to be replaced. Although, the old temp sensor read okay when checked with the meter. Anyway, glad you found the issue. Love the videos brother E. 😊
Four years later, it strikes me that the quality of SMA videos has improved a lot. Less looking away from the camera and mic when talking; better lighting etc.
Gm employee: Boss, we have a bunch of these three wire temp sensors and connectors. What do you want to do with them? Gm engineer: Use them but leave the extra wire unhooked.....
Lol!! Pretty funny!! But, more likely this: GM engineer: what the fudge are you doing?? GM employee: trying to make this right, so it won't come back!! GM engineer: YOUR FIRED!! And don't expect us to give a good recommendation to Toyota, when they call for your job reference!!
He can do a job relaxed talking to a camera stopping for 2 minutes every second but still fixes the car faster than I could get my tools out to begin Lmfaoo 😂
And he imparts his knowledge to the viewer in an intuitive way. You can easily learn a diagnostic / repair philosophy and be entertained. A hardy, "there's your problem lady"
I have a neighbor kid and a very young grandson that are going to be familiar with Eric's videos. In a way, he us going to be the textbook for my students.
The "why" is always helpful to me. If I have an extra wire, it could be contributing to a problem. Knowing they do stuff like this can stop me from going down rabbit holes I don't need to. Very much appreciated.
I had a 2004 Buick Century that I really loved. One problem though, constant little problems and a couple of big problems. One was the pressure control valve on the transmission. Make sure you check the pressure control valve FIRST before replacing the transmission. I found out after a transmission replacement. It still felt like it was slipping. Solution was the faulty valve. Had to part ways with her as a noisy valve train revealed, a wiped exhaust lobe on the ol' bump stick and 2K to fix. I bailed out.
I'd rather the mechanic fixing my car knew where the wires went, just part of being thorough, parts changers are a dime a dozen, mechanics are harder to find. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, I'm sure you've helped a lot people fix their own stuff.
I have an absolute mint 1997 Buick Century limited with the 3.1. Has 125,000km on it. The gauge told me it overheated once. Added some coolant and it hasn't overheated since. I think these engines are notorious for eating intake manifold gaskets, Head gaskets and coolant leaks. But if you have the money ( and you need a lot of money ) to put modern gaskets on the engine and run a coolant that isn't corrosive. I would expect the cars to last 30 40 years if regularily driven and taken care of. I have a 97 sunfire SE coupe with less than 120,000km on the clock and it runs like a top
You are getting better all the time at diagnosing problems because you take the time like this to learn what is happening. Another great video. Thank you for posting!
Had a choke on my old 86 Toyota Corolla (first car). That spring Eric is talking about was sticky, so the car stumbled a lot when cold. I was just starting out and I had no tools but I was able to figure out what was wrong with it. Needed a carburetor rebuild. Took it to three dealers to see if they could diagnose it correctly. None did in the Boston area. Took it to an independent mechanic like Eric, he nailed it, got my business. Thanks Eric, always love your explanatory videos and now with some tools, even try some things on my own!
Education and adjusting to changing technology is key and this guy gets it. He knows his electronics and electrical theory which sadly is not all that common with this profession. He goes beyond what a simple DTC tells him and that's impressive. The days of "durrr yeah I do brakes" are over lol
That _is_ a liar and thief- If it were brought to an unscrupulous shop- that told the Customer it was a head gasket. You, Eric- are a Godsend to your community; your honesty and work ethic shine with every video you create.
In europe a lot of sensors have an earth pin because of plastic housings. Coolant sensors when they fail in europe usually the ECM throws up -40 centigrade ! Which is by coincidence @ -38f ....so when doing quick diagnostics ambient air,coolant , intake air etc -40c flags up sensor / wiring issues, unless you are In Alaska in winter of course . Very toasty here in Australia 40c lots of 40ish floating around today. Keep up the good work.
It's nice to see proper diagnostics and full understanding of what is going on. Strange third wire. They even included the wire and terminated it at a plug. I Wonder if another model used it as a separate temp guage? and other models link it to the data bus. That crows foot looked a bit clumsy. It looked to me like there was enough room for a deep socket and 3/8" extension.
Likely GM uses that temp sensor on all of their vehicles so there are less parts to maintain thus, the third pin/wire isn't used in this particular vehicle. My guess anyway...to keep parts inventory to a minimum.
Great video. Great wit. Great assistant. I just bought a $600 2001 Century with a coolant leak and overheating problems, and I'm excited as hell to get 'em fixed up, because it's immaculate inside and out, smooth shifting, and yeah, thanks for the video!
Loved it. And no it's not stupid to wonder why. I just did a job like this but after notice antifreeze was going missing slowly. So I checked the elbows and the top one was done and replaced both elbows. OK then noticed the fans what's not kicking on so that car would overheat slowly. Then replaced the temp sensor switch and everything is good. Love your Chanel great work thanks.
In answer to the question about using the secondary sensor as a backup: 1. The lower resistance of the green wire sensor will result in a higher temperature gauge reading but without knowing the resistance vs temperature curve it’s not obvious whether the reading would be disconcertingly high. 2. The orange/black wire is referenced to the internal circuit ground that the ECM uses to measure the sensor voltage. Since the green wire sensor uses the engine block as a reference, it might introduce electrical noise in the measured voltage since the block is also used for the alternator current return. It might be close, but it wouldn’t be exactly the same as the internal ECM reference and it wouldn’t be a clean signal. The result could be erroneous and fluctuating temperature readings. I knew a wise old electrical engineer that asked: “When is a ground not ground?” His answer: “Usually.” It would be interesting to measure the voltage between the reference wire and the engine block using a scope. I think you would be surprised at what it shows.
I think the point of the question was, if your sensor takes a dump, and the car is running like pooh because of it, and you are in the back woods of Kalamazoo, could you swap to the other half of the sensor, and have the car run reasonably well so that you could get back home with it. Even if there are a number of technical reasons why you shouldn't leave it that way, can you get home.
I really enjoy it when you take the time to dig a little deeper into a problem. The fix is interesting but how you get there is the education. Thanks Eric
Now I know exactly HOW a common coolant temp sensor works and why. I like the analogy with the carburetor choke. I had no idea why a failed coolant sensor caused a rough running engine until now! It also affects the fuel delivery system. Thank you!
I had 1997 chevy venture with a 3.4 liter. Those little sensors are not fun to change. Sensor was same spot on my 3.4 liter. Sold the van since. Good job Eric.
I finally figured it out, Eric's knowledge on automotive repair, is that Jeep hat he wears. Just like the story of Samson and Delilah, where Samson's strength was his hair. For Eric his knowledge is that hat!!
I hate to burst your bubble, but the jeep hat ain't it!! I went and watched Eric work for a couple days!! He can do the basics, but when he runs into a touchy, like where to put the motor oil, and what weight of windshield washer fluid to use, he runs straight to Mrs O for all the answers!! I didn't believe it at first! But, after I got married myself, I realized that every wife constantly tells their husband what to do, when to do it, and how to take the blame for everything that goes wrong!
I definitely was that guy today watching your video sitting in my driveway trying to figure out what was wrong with my car. I have no automotive skills at all and thanks to this vid, I was able to find and replace the sensor on my own. Still cautious with it and I'll take it on a drive later but I just wanted to thank you for putting this video out, you're the best!
I wish I had all of your electrical tools but I'm not a mechanic. But from my experience of replacing the coolant sensor switch i found out that a 19mm deep socket with a small piece of paper stuffed inside to protect the switch from getting crushed with a long extension works perfect getting the switch in and out easy.
Eric I feel your pain every time you work on a GM product and wonder "why the heck did they design it that way?" I am a machine repairman for GM-Thermal Systems- Lockport, NY. The engineers that design the machinery to make the products are as clueless as the ones who cause you problems!! Can't work on these machines easily due to poor design. It's a GM thing!! Fight on Brother!! Love your channel!!
Wow you were pretty thorough on this problem and it is much appreciated. It was turning into a can of worms and frustrating and I can relate to that. I sure wish you could have explored the green wire as a functional back up circuit , but you were losing money on this job and you got bills to pay so I don't blame you. I am having simulair problems with overheating so I am going to try this. Also I am told the radiator cap will not properly seat and (you can squeeze both upper and lower hoses and water gushes out when open) I have confirmed that. I was going to try and build up the seat/land of radiator cap neck with a two part epoxy . The new cap gets very oily and there is gunk in the water . A head gasket test was done and there was no leakage. I had the gaskets changed on the intake and valve covers twice over the last few years. I am going to look over your notes to see if you have that schematic . Thanks !
Eric, you are the most honest tech I’ve ever seen when you admit “I broke the sensor.” Most techs would say “it’s an unavoidable error.”😂 And I think you’d be lost without Marie adding her help. An indispensable aide!
Thanks Erick and Caleb had several of those with the GM cars I had that went to crap and now I know why I couldnt find that info that I was looking for back then see some time we can learn new stuff
"I naturally assumed it had a blown head gasket, intake leak, and was outta coolant." LOL, that made my day!
5 років тому+5
It's a Buick Century with a 3.1L. As soon as he said it I INSTANTLY thought blown head gasket. With the GM 3.1 if someone told me the ash tray was stuck I'd say it was a blown head gasket. Those POS engines are notorious for it.
@Ultra CNC They are prone to intake manifold leaks as the 3.8 is also which many hold as one of the best engines of all time. I have seen a lot of Centuries of this era with the 3.1 go well over 200-300K though which is not bad and all things considered this car he is working on is 19 years old and still going! If you maintain your car and know to watch for things like coolant levels dropping you can keep it going for a long time. I would take any Buick from this era over ANY sedan being made today.
@@tyler2610 These engines had some issues with the HG and LIM's, but if you don't let them get hot, you likely won't have a problem. These cars are allowed to run too hot, 226 is way to "toasty." In my grand am I run a slightly cooler Tstat 185 or 180 and have a fan switch wired up, anywhere over 200 and I turn the fans on. Car has 217k miles.
Hey Erik O Just Wanted To Say Thank you For Making Your Videos In 2019! Loved Watching Them All. Happy New Year Best Of Luck To You And The Family, Hope You All Have A Great Year 👍
Just did this today video was very helpful. Must be a common thing with buicks. Only thing different I did was besides worrying about the green wire was use a deep socket and a twisty adapter due to being a pain to get to. Not looking forward to changing a radiator in my girlfriends century. Live and learn not all gms are created equally 😂
Great seeing others troubleshooting tips. Back when I tested, I used a pan of boiling water. Showed temp rising, I knew everything was good. Keep up the great work.
It looks like that sensor was, as you alluded to, designed to act as the sensor for the PCM and the gauge cluster. Older GMs that used this same engine (which may have still existed when this car was made) did not use class 2 data to run the gauges, they used connections to the engine, so it may have just been a matter of the engine being built as a complete package (including the harness) and having different body harnesses. Its easier to build one engines/trans package complete with harness than to build different setups for different cars
Great video. What I learned. 1. Wire to nowhere with "ghost" voltage. 2. Average normal temperatures with laser tester of various parts of car including heating vents.3.Two basic types of thermistors. 4. Coolant doesn't flood out with sensor change because of vacuum 5.Use cutoff wheel on encapsulated crow'sfoot, cut off ears. Install sensor. Buy new encapsulated 3/4" encapsulated crow'sfoot from Mac or Snap-on so set is complete which will temper any ocd response. Kind regards. Craig
It should always be remembered that infrared thermometers can't be used on bare metal, especially when it is shiny because it reflects infrared light rather than emitting its own, AKA the emissivity is wrong, and also the spot size being measured grows the further away you are and will average the temp of everything in that spot so the closer you are or the larger the part being measured the better. IOW either measure the temp of the hoses or paint the metal flat black or use a flat black sticker on the metal and for something small like the hose you want the thermometer almost touching it.
I always learn something watching your videos EricO. Of course I knew it was going to be the coolant temp sensor when you said it wasn't hot but I also know that throwing parts at a car without confirming the hunch gets expensive in a hurry. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Also, Miss Marie's deft camera work was a nice touch.
I had a similar situation with a Dodge Spirit 4 cyl. There was a head gasket leak, and the temp sensor was located where the exhaust was leaking into the cooling system. The gauge was reading hotter than what the engine was really running at.
I just replace the water pump and bleed out the air in the system. Now same customer different car 06 Malibu 3.1L I'm having to replace both heads the original owner put 162,000 miles on it with the factory spark plugs in it . Lol I'm the first to ever work on it. But the problem there he never bleed the air out of the cooling system. Love your videos helps me to explain things to my customer. Much love from HILLBILLY CHOPPERS, Perry GA
The engine seemed to have a slight tap during warm up. But was gone and nice and quiet once it was warm.. Those old 3100/3800 engines are very mechanically quiet when they are running well. Almost silent.
This happened to me today with my 66 mustang. Temperature gauge was pegged hot. Checked the engine temperature which was normal. The wire for the sender had shorted against the intake causing the faulty reading.
Is identifix better than all data? I've been using all data for a couple years and it has left me stranded more than a couple times. Also do u know ballpark price? Ty
Yes there really is a KALAMAZOO. thanks for the plug from Michigan. I did pick up as set of the cheep HF crows feet and they work OK for jobs like this after the part is broke loose. Thank again.
The sensor has been used across many years and models. That unused pin actually is used in my 1995 Pontiac Bonnieville 3.8L for the gauge and the other half is the ECT for the PCM.
GM OBD 1 used a single wire sensor to ground, while the better approach is to provide a sensor ground to ensure more accurate readings independent of Starter Draw or Alternator Output affecting the "Block" ground. The changes took place between the 94 - 96 Model Years, and "MAYBE" that sensor was made to cover BOTH systems in the mid 90's. sounds somewhat feasible, and That's my explanation.... and I am sticking to it! Good for you GM, after all, what makes sense at the time...... can only confuse people later.
The dark green I believe is a carry over from the day when the gauge actually got it's signal from sensor and not class 2. I have replaced a few myself because the pcm would say all's well and the dash would be pegged. Instead of redesigning a whole new harness. The just reuse the existing harness.
I don't think the temp senders for gauges operated in the same range of resistance as those. The green wire may have been used through another module like the BCM ?
No it doesn't operate in the same range. It worked on 12 volt shorted to ground via the engine block. Like I said it's a carry over from the days before the IPC ever communicated With the ECM/PCM. That green wire was the same green wire used on a 60s or 70s Chevy. It wasn't until the late 90s to early 2000s GM even started using the class 2 data to report engine temp to the driver. My 77 C10 pickup used the same color code if memory serves me correct. I actually had a Chevy Malibu that used that post with the green wire to report to the IPC the old fashion way. Plugged in the scanner PCM said normal dash was reading hot. Replaced Sensor/Sending unit. Shipped it. Same as a unit to say report oil pressure and back up ground path form choke coil or fuel pump relay on injected engine. Some people don't realize GM only will produce 4 to 6 different wire harnesses for a whole line of chassis. Why reinvent the wheel so to speak. If the can reuse a harness they will do it to save cost.
I had a 1974 Ford Mustang 2 with a 2.8 L V6. That engine had a Holley 2 barrel carburetor. It wasn't your typical left right to barrels it was more like a four barrel cut down the middle front to back. It featured an electric choke. I'm here to tell you it can get kind of hairy when you're going down the road in that electric choke malfunctions. The only way to stop the car was to turn off the ignition! I pop the air cleaner off and just pulled the single wire off the choke. Headed up to the Ford dealer as car was still in warranty. They asked me how I knew it was the choke I told him what I had done to get it there. The hose trick I was doing back in the 70s on that V6 Mustang 2 because it was a real it was real knuckle buster for a couple of the plugs on the driver side. It beats the hell out of the Chevy Monza the same time period. To change the plugs on the Monza V6 yeah to disconnect your engine mounts and Jack the engine up to get to the plugs.
Had this same issue with my 95 Monte Carlo 6 months ago. I just used a deep well socket to replace it much easier also held the throttle open to keep it out of the way.
Teflon tape is an excellent insulator. I have disassembled pipe joints and the tape was completely intact. If you need the ground best to leave the first few threads untaped to assure that the brass actually touches the manifold to ground the shell. In the case of a single lead where the housing is the ground path same deal.
Great video as always. I recently had to change my temp sensor going to the guage on my 2001 f250 diesel. Checked the wiring before picking up the part. The new part looked exactly like the old one so I installed it. Turned out to be the wrong sensor. After rechecking everything, the sensor they have my was for a dummy light, not a guage. Figures I didn't check it's function first, that's what I got for being in a hurry. I always enjoy your videos. Great explanations of operation and terrific troubleshooting techniques.
Just had the same problem with my g/f's 99 Maxima, she said it was overheating and according to the gauge it was but I also checked all over with a temperature gun like yours and found all over the engine that it's not overheating at all. Got a new sensor and now it's fine.
Worked that style engine A LOT in my 45 years of wrenching as a GM Master Tech..I did kinda wondered why you didn't just pull the throttle/cruise cable bracket, and then used a 3/4' deep socket for the coolant sensor?? Love your vids Eric, and most? of the repairs that you have done on GM products, I have done at least once myself...Bill.
I haven't run across a problem with the temperature showing to high, but my curiosity got the best of me so pulled up on Mitchell the wiring diagram and it only show a 2 wire sensor and the colors are yellow and black, no orange or green, I guess Mitchell got the memo about the green wire and decided not to draw it in the schematic, I always thought the green wire was for the gauge, like I said I haven't had to diagnose one with wonky gauge reading. My daughter in law has 96 century with the 3.1 and hers has a three wire sensor, the colors on that sensor are yellow, black, and green. You learn something every day. BTW she has over 300,000 miles on it, no joke! That was an awsome video.
I wonder if that temperature sensor is designed for a different engine and it was just cheaper to use the same connector and terminate the third wire at the main plug.
Id bet it was for the different engines but used the same harness and sensors. They put 3.1,3.4 and 3.8 that were all basically the same block just bored differently
@@Sicktrickintuner ...just had a bit of a dig on this -- part suits over 450 different GM models --- post 2000 or so the part is referred to as 'coolant temp sensor' ...however... 1999 and before the same part is referred to as 'temperature gauge sensor' ...go figure =)
@@legros731 I don't think so, that's a different sort of sender ~ that typically uses a temperature set switch, not a thermistor..ie; reach 220F and close circuit to ground.
This video is very helpful to me because I own a 2000 Chevy Malibu 3.1L! I have the exact same 3 wire connector on my coolant temp sensor! So thank you!
"Hands Snapon guy the crows foot which had the grinder taken to it transforming the line wrench into a regular crows foot" Says yeah it fell on the floor and when I picked it up it was just like that. Strangest thing I ever seen.
First time I have heard that Keith did not know what something was (extra wire). Great lesson Eric and I also would have to also know why the extra wire .it's a sickness. Thanks mark
The German torque spec is "Gutenteit." The American torque spec is "G'nuff." ;) I will give the GM 3100 engine a hard time, because they've given me many hard times, but truth of the matter is, they're good engines. Nothing special, but good. GMs DO run a bit toasty! There's a reason for it, too! Around the time Ford started transitioning to 5W-20 motor oil, GM decided to keep using 5W-30 in order to maintain a single oil across their entire fleet. But, with fuel economy requirements being what they are, the simple solution was to design the engine to run a bit hotter, in order to thin the oil. The higher temps are still perfectly within the tolerances of the oil, and the powertrain is engineered to run at the temperatures it does. I get irked whenever I see someone installing a colder thermostat in their GM 'cause they "think" it's running too hot. That puts MORE stress on the engine.
Replace all of the oil in your GM vehicles with water, immediately!! The water is so much thinner, and will help with the fuel economy! It'll also save you the money you're going to need to replace the engine every 12 minutes/12 miles, whichever comes first!! ;-)
Once again, GREAT job!!! your expertise is amazing bro!!! and i LOVE your honesty!! I can think of a few national chains that wudda just said "overheating?? replace the radiator, waterpump, & thermostat and thatll be 800 bucks!!!" you take the time to really diagnose the problem and FIX the problem as oppose to just throwing new parts at it!
If anyone would take the time to trace that green wire down, they would see for themselves that it goes straight to RUSSIAN COLLUSION!! It's plain as day!! It also needs to be removed, immediately!!
A good mechanic is part scientist and wants to know WHY and HOW not to just throw parts at it. good job telling us WHY and HOW .....thank you.
true that!
Preach!!! Love this guys channel!!!
Anyone else use these vlogs to fall asleep 😆 , i find it easy to drop off listening to mr o as you have that complete reasurance thats its going to get fixed 👌
When I get depressed from the awful news these days ,I watch an Eric video and it picks up my spirits.True!!
I usually talk shit about GM but my moms 2001 3100 Malibu went 270,000 miles before dying. Needed a fuel pump, fuel filter, many water pumps, several thermostats, ECT sensors, spark plug wires, a coil, brakes, oil changes, tires, an engine mount, belt, radiator, and a lower intake manifold gasket before she finally got crashed into by an elderly lady at Walmart. If it wasn’t so crushed I think we would’ve kept that one around in the family longer. I was much surprised.
However when she bought it from the dealer at 20,000 miles they had switched out that dexcool entirely. That engine never saw dexcool to our knowledge.. ran straight green stuff.. so I think that’s what made all the difference in the world imo.
The 3rd wire was for future use, warp speed sensor, photon torpedo circuit, you know.
Flux capacitor.
"I did what anyone would do, I called Keith". Awesome. It's great when people come together to attack at issue. I'm enjoyed these videos that include your thought process.
Who is Keith? A UA-camr?
@@thevoyager63 Yes, a master tech if there ever was one, you need see his magic show...
ua-cam.com/users/ONBOARDTECH333KMDvideos
thevoyager63 Yes. Check out New Level Auto. Him and Eric are good friends
wyattoneable s
He has a very boring channel. Pass that fella up 😄
The difference between fixing a problem, and knowing why the problem was fixed: Eric O. Thanks you for the edification.
For you guys that think Eric knows everything, you haven't talked to my ex-wife yet!!
Well, worked on few 3.1 liters. This happens alot on those 3.1 liters. Whenever I've work on any 3.1 liter that temp sensor always needed to be replaced. Although, the old temp sensor read okay when checked with the meter. Anyway, glad you found the issue. Love the videos brother E. 😊
Marie is super sharp. He is a great addition to your comedy/auto repair show. Very enjoyable.
3 and 1/2 years later, this was still HIGHLY educational! Thank you for making it!
Four years later, it strikes me that the quality of SMA videos has improved a lot. Less looking away from the camera and mic when talking; better lighting etc.
Gm employee: Boss, we have a bunch of these three wire temp sensors and connectors. What do you want to do with them?
Gm engineer: Use them but leave the extra wire unhooked.....
it makes the dumb independents ask silly questions
"It'll keep the tech and backyard tech going for HOURS!"
And don't forget to bury it in the documentation
It's an accessory wire! _ hook up a CB radio or 8 track to it and your golden.
Lol!! Pretty funny!! But, more likely this:
GM engineer: what the fudge are you doing??
GM employee: trying to make this right, so it won't come back!!
GM engineer: YOUR FIRED!! And don't expect us to give a good recommendation to Toyota, when they call for your job reference!!
He can do a job relaxed talking to a camera stopping for 2 minutes every second but still fixes the car faster than I could get my tools out to begin Lmfaoo 😂
And he imparts his knowledge to the viewer in an intuitive way. You can easily learn a diagnostic / repair philosophy and be entertained. A hardy, "there's your problem lady"
I have a neighbor kid and a very young grandson that are going to be familiar with Eric's videos. In a way, he us going to be the textbook for my students.
You're not kidding, all day on the driveway for me with this one, and I'd probably throw parts at it.
You should also check out ScannerDanner and Schrodingers Box.. Paul Danner is VERY thorough in his diags.
The "why" is always helpful to me. If I have an extra wire, it could be contributing to a problem. Knowing they do stuff like this can stop me from going down rabbit holes I don't need to. Very much appreciated.
I had a 2004 Buick Century that I really loved. One problem though, constant little problems and a couple of big problems. One was the pressure control valve on the transmission. Make sure you check the pressure control valve FIRST before replacing the transmission. I found out after a transmission replacement. It still felt like it was slipping. Solution was the faulty valve. Had to part ways with her as a noisy valve train revealed, a wiped exhaust lobe on the ol' bump stick and 2K to fix. I bailed out.
I'd rather the mechanic fixing my car knew where the wires went, just part of being thorough, parts changers are a dime a dozen, mechanics are harder to find. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, I'm sure you've helped a lot people fix their own stuff.
I have an absolute mint 1997 Buick Century limited with the 3.1. Has 125,000km on it. The gauge told me it overheated once. Added some coolant and it hasn't overheated since. I think these engines are notorious for eating intake manifold gaskets, Head gaskets and coolant leaks. But if you have the money ( and you need a lot of money ) to put modern gaskets on the engine and run a coolant that isn't corrosive. I would expect the cars to last 30 40 years if regularily driven and taken care of. I have a 97 sunfire SE coupe with less than 120,000km on the clock and it runs like a top
You are getting better all the time at diagnosing problems because you take the time like this to learn what is happening. Another great video. Thank you for posting!
Had a choke on my old 86 Toyota Corolla (first car). That spring Eric is talking about was sticky, so the car stumbled a lot when cold. I was just starting out and I had no tools but I was able to figure out what was wrong with it. Needed a carburetor rebuild. Took it to three dealers to see if they could diagnose it correctly. None did in the Boston area. Took it to an independent mechanic like Eric, he nailed it, got my business. Thanks Eric, always love your explanatory videos and now with some tools, even try some things on my own!
Education and adjusting to changing technology is key and this guy gets it. He knows his electronics and electrical theory which sadly is not all that common with this profession. He goes beyond what a simple DTC tells him and that's impressive. The days of "durrr yeah I do brakes" are over lol
I had a 2002 Buick Century.... with the 3.1 It was cheap to maintain, until the back end rusted out of it and we parted ways..... miss that beater!
That _is_ a liar and thief-
If it were brought to an unscrupulous shop-
that told the Customer it was a head gasket.
You, Eric- are a Godsend to your community;
your honesty and work ethic shine with every
video you create.
In europe a lot of sensors have an earth pin because of plastic housings. Coolant sensors when they fail in europe usually the ECM throws up -40 centigrade ! Which is by coincidence @ -38f ....so when doing quick diagnostics ambient air,coolant , intake air etc -40c flags up sensor / wiring issues, unless you are In Alaska in winter of course . Very toasty here in Australia 40c lots of 40ish floating around today. Keep up the good work.
Glad to see Ms Marie is still at it, and great job on holding the camera
Every time I used that rubber hose trick, I cross-threaded the damned thing. Usually took several tries to get it. Good job, Eric!
I haven’t heard someone say “Gudentite” since AvE used it. It cracked me up that Marie used that term immediately! You guys are awesome!
It's nice to see proper diagnostics and full understanding of what is going on. Strange third wire. They even included the wire and terminated it at a plug. I Wonder if another model used it as a separate temp guage? and other models link it to the data bus.
That crows foot looked a bit clumsy. It looked to me like there was enough room for a deep socket and 3/8" extension.
Likely GM uses that temp sensor on all of their vehicles so there are less parts to maintain thus, the third pin/wire isn't used in this particular vehicle. My guess anyway...to keep parts inventory to a minimum.
Great video. Great wit. Great assistant. I just bought a $600 2001 Century with a coolant leak and overheating problems, and I'm excited as hell to get 'em fixed up, because it's immaculate inside and out, smooth shifting, and yeah, thanks for the video!
I called Keith too... he told me to shut up.
🤣 lies!
@@NewLevelAuto Chrysler needs to take note. Eric didn't even need to hunt down a crusty sensor ground or install a new TIPM
What did you call him
@@james10739 🤣
What did you call him?
Loved it. And no it's not stupid to wonder why. I just did a job like this but after notice antifreeze was going missing slowly. So I checked the elbows and the top one was done and replaced both elbows. OK then noticed the fans what's not kicking on so that car would overheat slowly. Then replaced the temp sensor switch and everything is good. Love your Chanel great work thanks.
In answer to the question about using the secondary sensor as a backup:
1. The lower resistance of the green wire sensor will result in a higher temperature gauge reading but without knowing the resistance vs temperature curve it’s not obvious whether the reading would be disconcertingly high.
2. The orange/black wire is referenced to the internal circuit ground that the ECM uses to measure the sensor voltage. Since the green wire sensor uses the engine block as a reference, it might introduce electrical noise in the measured voltage since the block is also used for the alternator current return. It might be close, but it wouldn’t be exactly the same as the internal ECM reference and it wouldn’t be a clean signal. The result could be erroneous and fluctuating temperature readings. I knew a wise old electrical engineer that asked: “When is a ground not ground?” His answer: “Usually.” It would be interesting to measure the voltage between the reference wire and the engine block using a scope. I think you would be surprised at what it shows.
Older car have a 2 wire sensor for the ecu and a 1 wire sensor for the dash engine temp
I think the point of the question was, if your sensor takes a dump, and the car is running like pooh because of it, and you are in the back woods of Kalamazoo, could you swap to the other half of the sensor, and have the car run reasonably well so that you could get back home with it. Even if there are a number of technical reasons why you shouldn't leave it that way, can you get home.
@@thomasherring6640 You're absolutely correct. Eric's surmise was restricted to a "limp in" scenario, and not intended as a possible permanent fix.
I really enjoy it when you take the time to dig a little deeper into a problem. The fix is interesting but how you get there is the education. Thanks Eric
Now I know exactly HOW a common coolant temp sensor works and why. I like the analogy with the carburetor choke. I had no idea why a failed coolant sensor caused a rough running engine until now! It also affects the fuel delivery system. Thank you!
I had 1997 chevy venture with a 3.4 liter. Those little sensors are not fun to change. Sensor was same spot on my 3.4 liter. Sold the van since. Good job Eric.
I finally figured it out, Eric's knowledge on automotive repair, is that Jeep hat he wears. Just like the story of Samson and Delilah, where Samson's strength was his hair. For Eric his knowledge is that hat!!
I believe you're correct! It left for a while, and came back!
And Keith
I hate to burst your bubble, but the jeep hat ain't it!!
I went and watched Eric work for a couple days!! He can do the basics, but when he runs into a touchy, like where to put the motor oil, and what weight of windshield washer fluid to use, he runs straight to Mrs O for all the answers!!
I didn't believe it at first! But, after I got married myself, I realized that every wife constantly tells their husband what to do, when to do it, and how to take the blame for everything that goes wrong!
I definitely was that guy today watching your video sitting in my driveway trying to figure out what was wrong with my car. I have no automotive skills at all and thanks to this vid, I was able to find and replace the sensor on my own. Still cautious with it and I'll take it on a drive later but I just wanted to thank you for putting this video out, you're the best!
Great video Dr. O! The man that knows HOW will always have a job, the many that knows WHY will be his boss.
I wish I had all of your electrical tools but I'm not a mechanic. But from my experience of replacing the coolant sensor switch i found out that a 19mm deep socket with a small piece of paper stuffed inside to protect the switch from getting crushed with a long extension works perfect getting the switch in and out easy.
Wires to nowhere..another GM "Mark of Excellence"..good work Detective O.😎
Eric I feel your pain every time you work on a GM product and wonder "why the heck did they design it that way?" I am a machine repairman for GM-Thermal Systems- Lockport, NY. The engineers that design the machinery to make the products are as clueless as the ones who cause you problems!! Can't work on these machines easily due to poor design. It's a GM thing!! Fight on Brother!! Love your channel!!
The mystery of three wire sensors diagnosed at SMA, GM designer's getting worried 😨😨😨😨.
Great job Sir, thanks for sharing.
Wow you were pretty thorough on this problem and it is much appreciated. It was turning into a can of worms and frustrating and I can relate to that. I sure wish you could have explored the green wire as a functional back up circuit , but you were losing money on this job and you got bills to pay so I don't blame you. I am having simulair problems with overheating so I am going to try this. Also I am told the radiator cap will not properly seat and (you can squeeze both upper and lower hoses and water gushes out when open) I have confirmed that. I was going to try and build up the seat/land of radiator cap neck with a two part epoxy . The new cap gets very oily and there is gunk in the water . A head gasket test was done and there was no leakage. I had the gaskets changed on the intake and valve covers twice over the last few years. I am going to look over your notes to see if you have that schematic . Thanks !
Eric, you are the most honest tech I’ve ever seen when you admit “I broke the sensor.” Most techs would say “it’s an unavoidable error.”😂
And I think you’d be lost without Marie adding her help. An indispensable aide!
Thanks Erick and Caleb had several of those with the GM cars I had that went to crap and now I know why I couldnt find that info that I was looking for back then see some time we can learn new stuff
"I naturally assumed it had a blown head gasket, intake leak, and was outta coolant." LOL, that made my day!
It's a Buick Century with a 3.1L. As soon as he said it I INSTANTLY thought blown head gasket. With the GM 3.1 if someone told me the ash tray was stuck I'd say it was a blown head gasket. Those POS engines are notorious for it.
@Ultra CNC They are prone to intake manifold leaks as the 3.8 is also which many hold as one of the best engines of all time. I have seen a lot of Centuries of this era with the 3.1 go well over 200-300K though which is not bad and all things considered this car he is working on is 19 years old and still going! If you maintain your car and know to watch for things like coolant levels dropping you can keep it going for a long time. I would take any Buick from this era over ANY sedan being made today.
@ They are not notorious for blown head gaskets. They are well known for failed intake manifold gaskets.
@@tyler2610 These engines had some issues with the HG and LIM's, but if you don't let them get hot, you likely won't have a problem. These cars are allowed to run too hot, 226 is way to "toasty." In my grand am I run a slightly cooler Tstat 185 or 180 and have a fan switch wired up, anywhere over 200 and I turn the fans on. Car has 217k miles.
@@gtowrx2001I did the same on my grand prix with the 3100 and it runs a lot cooler now especially at idel
Our brains “function” better because of you Eric!!! You’re the best! Thanks for the entertainment!
Hey Erik O Just Wanted To Say Thank you For Making Your Videos In 2019! Loved Watching Them All. Happy New Year Best Of Luck To You And The Family, Hope You All Have A Great Year 👍
Just did this today video was very helpful. Must be a common thing with buicks. Only thing different I did was besides worrying about the green wire was use a deep socket and a twisty adapter due to being a pain to get to. Not looking forward to changing a radiator in my girlfriends century. Live and learn not all gms are created equally 😂
Thanks Marie for holding the camera
Great seeing others troubleshooting tips. Back when I tested, I used a pan of boiling water. Showed temp rising, I knew everything was good. Keep up the great work.
Like you, I like to find out all about a circuit that I can. Retired after 50 years and recently, a lot of computer diagnostics. Thanks Eric.
This brought back memories of working at a plastics factory making water outlets and MAF bodies for Ford, GM and Chrysler very east of Kalamazoo.
It looks like that sensor was, as you alluded to, designed to act as the sensor for the PCM and the gauge cluster. Older GMs that used this same engine (which may have still existed when this car was made) did not use class 2 data to run the gauges, they used connections to the engine, so it may have just been a matter of the engine being built as a complete package (including the harness) and having different body harnesses. Its easier to build one engines/trans package complete with harness than to build different setups for different cars
Great video. What I learned. 1. Wire to nowhere with "ghost" voltage. 2. Average normal temperatures with laser tester of various parts of car including heating vents.3.Two basic types of thermistors. 4. Coolant doesn't flood out with sensor change because of vacuum 5.Use cutoff wheel on encapsulated crow'sfoot, cut off ears. Install sensor. Buy new encapsulated 3/4" encapsulated crow'sfoot from Mac or Snap-on so set is complete which will temper any ocd response. Kind regards. Craig
It should always be remembered that infrared thermometers can't be used on bare metal, especially when it is shiny because it reflects infrared light rather than emitting its own, AKA the emissivity is wrong, and also the spot size being measured grows the further away you are and will average the temp of everything in that spot so the closer you are or the larger the part being measured the better. IOW either measure the temp of the hoses or paint the metal flat black or use a flat black sticker on the metal and for something small like the hose you want the thermometer almost touching it.
Nice to see Ms Marie in action again. It is always good to see, just like Mrs O doing tire changes.
I always learn something watching your videos EricO. Of course I knew it was going to be the coolant temp sensor when you said it wasn't hot but I also know that throwing parts at a car without confirming the hunch gets expensive in a hurry. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Also, Miss Marie's deft camera work was a nice touch.
every time i watch you i learn something i never knew , as for chancing the green wire and such i think you did the right thing
I had a similar situation with a Dodge Spirit 4 cyl. There was a head gasket leak, and the temp sensor was located where the exhaust was leaking into the cooling system. The gauge was reading hotter than what the engine was really running at.
I just replace the water pump and bleed out the air in the system. Now same customer different car 06 Malibu 3.1L I'm having to replace both heads the original owner put 162,000 miles on it with the factory spark plugs in it . Lol I'm the first to ever work on it. But the problem there he never bleed the air out of the cooling system. Love your videos helps me to explain things to my customer. Much love from HILLBILLY CHOPPERS, Perry GA
Thank you for making this fun. I enjoy watching car repair and your humor is pretty great, in my opinion. Love watching.
The engine seemed to have a slight tap during warm up. But was gone and nice and quiet once it was warm..
Those old 3100/3800 engines are very mechanically quiet when they are running well.
Almost silent.
This happened to me today with my 66 mustang. Temperature gauge was pegged hot. Checked the engine temperature which was normal. The wire for the sender had shorted against the intake causing the faulty reading.
The 3100 engine has a reduced power mode when it thinks it's over heating. Great video.
December 31, 2019 the day Identifix was down all day long. Luckily like you we have Identifix and Mitchell. I like both for different reasons.
Is identifix better than all data? I've been using all data for a couple years and it has left me stranded more than a couple times. Also do u know ballpark price? Ty
@@davisjames8484 identifix subscription is around $90/mo if I remember correctly
Thanks for how and why. I also could not find the information on the third wire about six months back. You are better than me I gave up.
Yes there really is a KALAMAZOO. thanks for the plug from Michigan. I did pick up as set of the cheep HF crows feet and they work OK for jobs like this after the part is broke loose. Thank again.
The sensor has been used across many years and models. That unused pin actually is used in my 1995 Pontiac Bonnieville 3.8L for the gauge and the other half is the ECT for the PCM.
Very informative. Best diagnostic videos out there. Thanks for taking the time.
Best mechanic of the whole east coast of the USA 🇺🇸 Hands 🙌 up for sure.
So famous that the NEUTRAL DROP brothers recommends Erico for everything.
Love the real work Eric
Marie is a great addition to your shop, keep her around please, keep the videos coming please !!!!!!
I love this stuff and learn a lot with this guy, thank you
GM OBD 1 used a single wire sensor to ground, while the better approach is to provide a sensor ground to ensure more accurate readings independent of Starter Draw or Alternator Output affecting the "Block" ground. The changes took place between the 94 - 96 Model Years, and "MAYBE" that sensor was made to cover BOTH systems in the mid 90's.
sounds somewhat feasible, and That's my explanation.... and I am sticking to it! Good for you GM, after all, what makes sense at the time...... can only confuse people later.
The dark green I believe is a carry over from the day when the gauge actually got it's signal from sensor and not class 2. I have replaced a few myself because the pcm would say all's well and the dash would be pegged. Instead of redesigning a whole new harness. The just reuse the existing harness.
I don't think the temp senders for gauges operated in the same range of resistance as those. The green wire may have been used through another module like the BCM ?
No it doesn't operate in the same range. It worked on 12 volt shorted to ground via the engine block. Like I said it's a carry over from the days before the IPC ever communicated With the ECM/PCM. That green wire was the same green wire used on a 60s or 70s Chevy. It wasn't until the late 90s to early 2000s GM even started using the class 2 data to report engine temp to the driver. My 77 C10 pickup used the same color code if memory serves me correct. I actually had a Chevy Malibu that used that post with the green wire to report to the IPC the old fashion way. Plugged in the scanner PCM said normal dash was reading hot. Replaced Sensor/Sending unit. Shipped it. Same as a unit to say report oil pressure and back up ground path form choke coil or fuel pump relay on injected engine. Some people don't realize GM only will produce 4 to 6 different wire harnesses for a whole line of chassis. Why reinvent the wheel so to speak. If the can reuse a harness they will do it to save cost.
I had a 1974 Ford Mustang 2 with a 2.8 L V6. That engine had a Holley 2 barrel carburetor. It wasn't your typical left right to barrels it was more like a four barrel cut down the middle front to back. It featured an electric choke. I'm here to tell you it can get kind of hairy when you're going down the road in that electric choke malfunctions. The only way to stop the car was to turn off the ignition! I pop the air cleaner off and just pulled the single wire off the choke. Headed up to the Ford dealer as car was still in warranty. They asked me how I knew it was the choke I told him what I had done to get it there.
The hose trick I was doing back in the 70s on that V6 Mustang 2 because it was a real it was real knuckle buster for a couple of the plugs on the driver side. It beats the hell out of the Chevy Monza the same time period. To change the plugs on the Monza V6 yeah to disconnect your engine mounts and Jack the engine up to get to the plugs.
"So I did what anyone would do - I called Keith", that totally cracked me up!
🤷♂️🤣
Had this same issue with my 95 Monte Carlo 6 months ago. I just used a deep well socket to replace it much easier also held the throttle open to keep it out of the way.
Kudos to Ms Marie: a byte is 8 bits, and a nibble is 4 bits. Someone's been playing around with some computer science!
Let's go back even further- a quarter is 2 bits! ;-)
@@JLange642 which goes back to peices of eight, a coin cut into 8pcs.
Teflon tape is an excellent insulator. I have disassembled pipe joints and the tape was completely intact.
If you need the ground best to leave the first few threads untaped to assure that the brass actually touches the manifold to ground the shell. In the case of a single lead where the housing is the ground path same deal.
Common with all electronics, you can use parts that do more for purposes that require less.
Great video as always. I recently had to change my temp sensor going to the guage on my 2001 f250 diesel. Checked the wiring before picking up the part. The new part looked exactly like the old one so I installed it. Turned out to be the wrong sensor. After rechecking everything, the sensor they have my was for a dummy light, not a guage. Figures I didn't check it's function first, that's what I got for being in a hurry. I always enjoy your videos. Great explanations of operation and terrific troubleshooting techniques.
Mystery wire leads off to the twilight zone...
On that GM 3.1 liter engine, it leads to the emergency oil dump switch!!
Just had the same problem with my g/f's 99 Maxima, she said it was overheating and according to the gauge it was but I also checked all over with a temperature gun like yours and found all over the engine that it's not overheating at all. Got a new sensor and now it's fine.
Marie is getting the lingo.
Appreciate the lesson.
Cooking with fire, or now o days the wãve
Worked that style engine A LOT in my 45 years of wrenching as a GM Master Tech..I did kinda wondered why you didn't just pull the throttle/cruise cable bracket, and then used a 3/4' deep socket for the coolant sensor??
Love your vids Eric, and most? of the repairs that you have done on GM products, I have done at least once myself...Bill.
you should add a basin wrench to your random tool drawer. might have been the ticket for that thing
Good call a basin wrench 🔧
I haven't run across a problem with the temperature showing to high, but my curiosity got the best of me so pulled up on Mitchell the wiring diagram and it only show a 2 wire sensor and the colors are yellow and black, no orange or green, I guess Mitchell got the memo about the green wire and decided not to draw it in the schematic, I always thought the green wire was for the gauge, like I said I haven't had to diagnose one with wonky gauge reading. My daughter in law has 96 century with the 3.1 and hers has a three wire sensor, the colors on that sensor are yellow, black, and green. You learn something every day. BTW she has over 300,000 miles on it, no joke! That was an awsome video.
It may be a midyear revision. Check the diagrams for the previous and following years.
I wonder if that temperature sensor is designed for a different engine and it was just cheaper to use the same connector and terminate the third wire at the main plug.
Kinda looks like a combined engine coolant sensor & temp gauge sender in the one unit ~ earlier models didn't use temp gauge derived from ECU?
Id bet it was for the different engines but used the same harness and sensors.
They put 3.1,3.4 and 3.8 that were all basically the same block just bored differently
@@Sicktrickintuner ...just had a bit of a dig on this -- part suits over 450 different GM models --- post 2000 or so the part is referred to as 'coolant temp sensor' ...however... 1999 and before the same part is referred to as 'temperature gauge sensor' ...go figure =)
The 3 wire must be to ground a light in the dash for too hot
@@legros731 I don't think so, that's a different sort of sender ~ that typically uses a temperature set switch, not a thermistor..ie; reach 220F and close circuit to ground.
This video is very helpful to me because I own a 2000 Chevy Malibu 3.1L! I have the exact same 3 wire connector on my coolant temp sensor! So thank you!
"Hands Snapon guy the crows foot which had the grinder taken to it transforming the line wrench into a regular crows foot" Says yeah it fell on the floor and when I picked it up it was just like that. Strangest thing I ever seen.
That Buick owes you an apology for lyiing Eric O. Thanks for the video! GOD bless! 🇺🇲
Marie is hilarious😂
First time I have heard that Keith did not know what something was (extra wire). Great lesson Eric and I also would have to also know why the extra wire .it's a sickness. Thanks mark
The German torque spec is "Gutenteit."
The American torque spec is "G'nuff." ;)
I will give the GM 3100 engine a hard time, because they've given me many hard times, but truth of the matter is, they're good engines. Nothing special, but good.
GMs DO run a bit toasty! There's a reason for it, too! Around the time Ford started transitioning to 5W-20 motor oil, GM decided to keep using 5W-30 in order to maintain a single oil across their entire fleet. But, with fuel economy requirements being what they are, the simple solution was to design the engine to run a bit hotter, in order to thin the oil. The higher temps are still perfectly within the tolerances of the oil, and the powertrain is engineered to run at the temperatures it does. I get irked whenever I see someone installing a colder thermostat in their GM 'cause they "think" it's running too hot. That puts MORE stress on the engine.
Replace all of the oil in your GM vehicles with water, immediately!!
The water is so much thinner, and will help with the fuel economy! It'll also save you the money you're going to need to replace the engine every 12 minutes/12 miles, whichever comes first!! ;-)
Water in the engine is not good. And I agree the 3.1 is a good motor I also like the 3.8lt that you find in the regal and many other vehicles
rhkips , Russian torque spec is “Teitenov”.
Once again, GREAT job!!! your expertise is amazing bro!!! and i LOVE your honesty!! I can think of a few national chains that wudda just said "overheating?? replace the radiator, waterpump, & thermostat and thatll be 800 bucks!!!" you take the time to really diagnose the problem and FIX the problem as oppose to just throwing new parts at it!
Erics hose saves the day again...
I want to click the thumbs up button twice. You and Marie are pretty funny together. Thanks for the fun and education.
Hrm... "Do you know where the green wire goes?" sounds like an excellent kids book on mechanics.
Does mechanics include disarming a bomb? Hmm...
If anyone would take the time to trace that green wire down, they would see for themselves that it goes straight to RUSSIAN COLLUSION!! It's plain as day!! It also needs to be removed, immediately!!
@@TreyCook21 I don't see why not. Kids gotta grow (blow) up sometime.
How bout green wire and splices
would you could you in a car
You been reading "GREEN WIRES AND HAM"!!! Lol
I enjoy, been doing this lots of yrs but enjoy your diagnostics.