Thanks for Posting the Link for the Knipex Wire stripper. I'm definitely going to get one. Been using little blue-point ( snap-on ) Little wire stripper for years. lately been using the Klein tiny yellow handled ones. basically same as blue point - but with cushier handles. i'm older - i like a little more cush in these old hands. Top notch repair of those wires under that car !!! You are a Master with that torch 🔥 in hand. not a burn mark in sight ! i'm a Heat gun Man myself. Everyone to thier own. Results - is All that Matters !
Eric, I really appreciate you taking the time to show & tell us viewers which tools and supplies you are using and why you like them. It’s nice coming from you because we see you “walk the walk” and not just “talk the talk” Thank you for helping me and so many others!!!!
taaalkin about stripers. back in the mid 80,s. mate i was traveling with up to townsville, where the army airforce navy is, dont tell the chinese, his bro was a seargent in the army, 20 odd yrs old.. at a nite club, his buddy,s said, dare you to ask the striper for a date.. he did.. she was surprised as, being a striper guys were scared of her.. 2c..
OMG !!! Crimp connectors, heart shrink with an open flame, all the same color wire, and the thumb nail, in one video ! I'm going to have to mix a strong Chocolate Milk, and just set here a while to let my eyes heal ! Not sure I'll ever be the same !!
I have been retired for 7 years now, but for the previous 40 years I was a auto repair business owner and chief mechanic just like you. What you do and how you go about repairing things is almost identical to what I did for those 40 years. When I watch your repair videos, it is like watching me. They say everyone has a doppelganger out there in this world and I have found mine. From your wife working with you in your business to the way you just go about things on a daily basis, it is like a duplicate of my 40 years in the auto repair business. Keep up the great work and making your videos. I enjoy watching the very much.
After 50 years of stripping wire I can honestly say that I figured it out how to strip a wire with a razer knife without knicking the wire. If you want some comments try that.
You should do a troll video using the gas axe for the heatshrink. The comment section would be a sight to behold. Stay safe and awesome out there, Mr O.
There's no reason that a skilled guy could not use a gas axe to activate the heat shrink. It would look a bit odd. Just wave it like a fairy wand at the right distance.
I have the H F version of the Knipex. For the 10 times a year I use it it works great. Next year for April Fools you need to stuff a bunch of Wago connectors under a car. 😊
Your wiring is a thing of beauty. Open flames will destroy the wire.... If you Light It On Fire. I bought some liquid insulation, threw it away after five years, just couldn't bring myself to put it on anything. Thanks for the videos!
I lightly dab it on soldered wire joins before the first heat shrink layer. Old habit... Not so much necessary anymore with the availability glue-included heat shrink tubing.
@@russellstephan6844 the glue included stuff is mint and a standard in the shop I'm in, I almost don't believe in using anything else, had a tailgate stop working with four open circuits because someone repaired the wires using some subpar clear heat shrink
I think SMA has to do a list of Eric O. Quotes? “There’s that guy” “There’s your problem lady” “Squeeze and tug” “Chevy Thunder”. You can put them on T-shirts and sell the swag! People’s Republic of NY! Watching this while eating dinner and can barely finish the meal!
Was in the communications business for 45 years. Early on in my career, I learned how to strip wire from an old Bell Telephone engineer. He used a small pair of dikes (diagonal cutters for the PC crowd). He would pinch the jacket and make a small nip. then flip the dikes over and pull the jacket away. He had done tons of these procedures over his career and he made it look easy. I still do this today for small signal wires. I use a Klein auto stripper for bigger stuff.
The only thing liquid electric tape is good for is covering piercings you make probing wires. I use the older style strippers to cut the insulation so I can twist it off. Wire is now ready with a tight twist for open barrel crimp. I do it the same as you after that on my 1991 Chevy 1500. Most of the connectors on the engine harness have been replaced the same way due to age. Little guys were falling apart causing havoc with the money light. Good visual inspection told me to replace the little guys and the money light went out. Yay Chevy Thunder! Thanks Eric, I learned it from you, no more soldering and good heat shrink, just non-insulated crimps and good heat shrink.
I'm in Iowa, so I see plenty of cars drenched in the battery acid they treat our roads with in the winter. I have resealed nicked wire insulation with liquid electrical tape for decades and had no problems. Just as long as the damage is fresh and no corrosion has set in.
Mr O feeding himself by baiting his own followers to comment! This guy is top of the food chain!! Genius!! Top quality commentary as ever mate, from "That guy" from over the pond...
I was an instructor & had certifications on aircraft cable, wire, & connector repair. Good to see you using a method & product I recommended in one of your previous videos. TE Connectivity sells "Environmental Splices" and heat shrink designed for and specifically made for use on these splices. If you use sealed heat shrink there is no need for liquid tape.
Perhaps you can answer a question for me. On Facebook I see multiple ads for Solder Stick and invariably there are comments about using them on military aircraft. I find it hard to believe such an inferior connection is approved for aviation. Comments?
I absolutely LOVE your commentary. Such a natural gift of wit you have with calling out haters!! This is also the way I do all my wiring connections. With the correct crimp strength, you will break the wire strands before it pulls out and it full movement of the wire outside unlike how solder creates stiff areas at the repair site. Keeo doing what you do!! I watch every SMA upload.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You have some of the best troubleshooting videos by far. It just drives me crazy to watch someone heat shrink tubing with a lighter. For most who don’t do it on a regular basis a cheap heat gun with the circular attachment is the best. Both work but way less chance to overcook the tubing with a heat gun. Thanks for sharing all your great troubleshooting and videos. They are invaluable!
The Knipex auto stripper is my favorite. My grandson likes to strip the wires for me when I am working and it is pretty foolproof even for a 5 year old!
The Knipex is nice. I have the bigger model than the one EricO uses. Just as a reminder, if they start having issues, the cutting blades can be replaced.
These are the kind that more or less pinch the insulation and pull it off rather than slice it? I have a real cheap version with probably 10s of thousands of uses and really love them but they're showing their age and are rather crappy generally. If they are I'll get a set. I've never been a fan of the slicing type ones: I've never known one not to knick.
Eric & Vanessa, always great content! Was an auto mechanic after completing high school vocational trade. Then onto jet engines. Wiring Diagram's (WD's) are essential in both fields. Not only with diagnosing faults with what ever is on the road, or in the air, but also with computerized diagnostic test equipment. Hands down, understanding wiring diagrams is key to success. Repaired many faults with Jet Engine Test Cell equipment, jet engine wiring and associated components with using WD's as the source document.
Greetings South Main Auto. Eric, hands down, you are the best overall mechanic I have ever witnessed. Thank you for the great videos. Have a blessed day.
Hey - I'm real! :) I used your 10mm mini roll last Christmas "beefing up" some connectors that power those lawn decorations. I'm pretty sure the manufacturers use the cheapest, thinnest crappiest wire they can get their hands on. Worked beautifully! I keep learning stuff from Mr. O all the time!
The uninsulated butt connector with adheisive-lined heat shrink is my favorite way to join wires, when possible. The clear heat shrink is great because you can see if the joint has been compromised in the future. Not sure if they may clear heat shrink in 4:1, but the greater the ration the more durable the heat shrink tends to be against chafing.
What I like is you offer information, you point out pluses and minuses, and why you do what you do. What makes us like you is your honesty and the fact that you’ve been there done that. We get to learn from your experience! Always great to watch you. Glad GM keeps you in business!!😂
The return of innuendo filled video. It never fails to entertain. Western Union splice + solder and heat shrink is my preferred way to splice low voltage wires in this type of situation.
IKR? I was thinking, hmm, the 1 handed stripper, the two handed stripper, the mini stripper, the stripper that can handle the large gauge, the automatic stripper, the stripper with 2 legs with pole riding skills... oh wait, nevermind.
HVAC/R tech here and I like T wire strippers and a separate Klein crimper tool. As far as shrink tube I have the gun and micro torch and use whichever is closest.
In California where crappy cars last forever I soldier and heat shrink. Back east the crappy car will be crushed before any of your repairs have any issues. Keep up the great work. Thanks for the video.
The point he was making is that every connector is crimped and never soldered. I can't recall ever seeing a factory crimp fail in my 41 years of auto repair. Wire breakage, damaged insulation, terminal tension, yes. Actual crimp failure? Never.
Powersports tech here up in Ontario, snowmobiles/atv/SxS - plenty of interesting DIY solutions on equipment, especially wiring in accessories or repairs. Classic e-tape and marrettes of course. Have definitely picked up on yours and others good habits over the years and nice to see my previous repairs coming through still in good shape. Appreciate the Amazon links to your stuff too, lets me go to our parts manager with some quality suggestions for shop supply restocks! Appreciate the effort to share your experience, always enjoy the insight, banter, and new ways to approach my own jobs.
I’m here for the becoming triggered and for the Chevy THUNDER!! I’m not triggered and I heard the THUNDER. HEY!! One outta two ain’t bad. What’s for lunch? Nicely done!! You da man. Say HI! to the family and keep the dirty side down. Oh, I do love my knippex. Great tool!! I have 3 of them. Good stuff.
Yes, it was Uncle Joey (Dave Coulier). I prefer to use the bare crimps, they're less bulky than the crimp and seal ones, plus you don't have to worry about piercing the heat shrink. My favorite strippers are the OTC automatic ones. They actually cut the insulation instead of just ripping it off. Doesn't have a depth stop and don't work if you've only got a very small nub of wire left.
The "Cut. It. Out!" hand gesture is indeed from Uncle Joey, Full House TV show. Dave Coulier! But he was doin' the "Cut. It. Out!" hand signal thing on the old show Out of Control, way before Full House was a thing, back in the olden days. That show was... well, yeah, out of control indeed. :)
They make these heat shrink tubes similar to butt splice but instead of crimping there is a solder ring inside the heat shrink. You heat it up and it shrinks the tubing around wires and the solder melts and makes a solid GOOD connection. Super easy too no need to find that crimper that fits that pin size. They use them in aviation so they're trustworthy We used an infrared heat gun that got hot enough to melt the solder ring relatively quickly
How do I know you are a liar... Let me count the ways. 1. To achieve the melting point of the solder means exceeding the melting, and usually the burning point of the parent wire insulation. 2. The temperature window between the melting of the solder, and melting a hole in the shrink tubing is VERY narrow. Causing a ruptured seal. 3. There is no flux which leads to little to no wetting of the wire. You have a cold solder joint despite having burnt insulation everywhere. The temperatures and insulation issues also contribute to additional oxides.. and no flux. 4. Solder is prohibited in aviation by default. There are narrow circumstances that allow it. Solder is the exception, not the expectation. At no point are these all in one solutions ever allowed. Non insulated crimps with clear lined heat shrink is allowed much of the time.
I work in aviation maintenance, those solder shrink connectors are used in very very specific circumstances, not super common. The thing with airplane wiring is airplanes and their wires are super clean, and the wires are a higher grade (more strands for a given wire gauge, and each individual strand is tinned). Where I have seen solder shrink connectors used is attaching a ground wire to the shielding of shielded wire. To the guy who said "soldering is prohibited in aviation by default", that's the dumbest thing I've heard all day, you're talking out your a$$!!!! I solder in connections on a regular basis.
I'm a retired heavy duty truck and city bus mechanic and I have used the liquid tape but only on repairs to interior wires where there is no chance of water infiltration. Also it usually takes two to three light applications. All my other wire repairs were done just like you showed. Barrel crimp and flamed heat shrink. Cheers
I always did what you’re doing and soldered the crimp joint/butconnector. It just ensured that there wouldn’t get a hotspot where the pinch was. I always enjoy watching you continue this art form that’s slowly dying.
I have a roll of 3M wire sealing tape that has butyl rubber sealer in it, once its on there it seals it and you ain't gettin off! We used it to seal any repairs on the hanging rear lights on trucks, It works!!👍
Mr O, when you start out poking the bear and pissing people off....... i am all in!! Love it!! And the repair will outlive those snow belt specials for years down the road!! Till they hit the junkyard!! Hahaha 😆 Good video!
I've used a similar method for as long as I can remember. I use non-insulated butt connectors and put heat shrink over the top of them. Never had one break or have an issue and it gave the illusion that it's soldered under there. 😂
Yea I don't understand all the heat for that method or the adhesive lined heat shrink and marine grade butt connectors. Like Eric was saying, just look at an OEM connector. There is a mechanical fastener with the wire to the pin and a mechanical water proofing with the O-ring or weather packing in the connector. I would trust the adhesive lined heat shrink over that and those work great to begin with.
I've done many wire repairs. I like solder and shrink tubing, for single, double and quad ought (0, 00, 0000) cable especially in diesel applications. Smaller than 12 gauge I have used crimp splices. We didn't have that fine deluxe selection of non-insulated splices like you have there. Also, didn't have the liquid tape until after 2016, but I found it does a very good job, albeit a little messy unless you put something under it to catch the drippings. Open flame? YOU BET! Propane torch with a smaller tip and, being careful, it works great! Good one Mr. O!
I agree Eric, The non-insulated butt connector with heat shrink is my weapon of choice. You can use the pointy part of the crimper to give the best tightest crimp possible and it provides the smallest repair footprint. The marine grade heat-shrink should take care of all environmental issues.
I must've entered an alternate universe; an SMA video with no lawnmower or leaf blower in the background. Or my hearing is getting worse. This right here is my preferred method, the metal connectors with shrink tube. Always use an open flame. If the car is leaking gas, the shrink tube will melt faster 😂😂😂
Eric O’- make ‘em mad about open flames. Get it done your way. Really piss em off by making s’mores with the torch then repair more harness’. Keep the videos and commentary coming. Appreciate your time and effort to upload vids.
I think this was a mighty fine repair. Crip and seal I’m a fan. It’s the best fix for this application. So anyone with complaints go watch Raymond Rainman or someone else. I’ll stay with the man who does the best and always is entertaining.
I just love watching your video Eric O I just had a tip for the electrical tape on the 10 mm socket. You can use a battery operated tool and start the tape on the socket manually then use the tool to wrap it up the socket so it’s quicker then by hand.
I remember you doing a tool review for the Power Probe PPSK butane torch and I absolutely love that thing! Coupled with the Solder-Seal (solder and heatshrink) its an unbeatable combo for wire repair: no open flame and doesnt burn the shrink tube. I've had butt connectors fail before even while using the "correct" and various other methods of crimping. With the solder-seal, they have held true with no water intrusion on various different applications over many years of service (golf cart, truck, boat, atv ect.)
We use a silicone lined heat shrink that seals like crimp and seal butt slices. We also use butt slices along with Deutsch connectors. Although I work in a manufacturing setting.
During my 35 years as an aerospace technician I've used several strippers. For years my favorite ones were the T-Strippers by Ideal but the powers that be decided that any mechanical stripper risked nicking the conductor and creating a potential failure point and so were banned in favor of thermal strippers. I believe the brand name is Hotweezers. they look like tweezers with notches in the jaws and a wire going to a power supply that heated the jaw and melted the insulation rather than cutting it. On a work bench they worked very well, if you can ignore the smell, but I would hate to try dragging them under my car. right now I still use my trusty T-strippers and I have another one very similar to your Knipex that are labeled PYT4 that seem to work well.
I used those heat activated connectors. The solder rings take much longer to melt where the heat gun doesn’t work well. We found ourselves putting direct heat on the ring and end up melting the plastic connector. We ended up slipping heat shrink before this to protect the melted connectors. Eric O. had his share of issues with these connectors. Class is in session today. I hope to learn something today to apply at the shop.
Hey Eric, since you asked, my go-to wire stripper is my Stripmaster 45-292 (by IDEAL Electrical) -- handles 10-22 AWG, precise cutting blades, comfortable for long-term use, quality construction, and has yet to fail me, ever. I highly recommend this tool unless working in super-tight confines where the horizontal jaws movement may not be ideal. 👍
This is what I am using for my airplane build. It can be bulky in tight confines as you say, but this is pretty much the standard tool in the avionics world. It is quick and accurate particularly when installing terminals for high density d-shell and similar connectors.
@@LTVoyager My late father, a 39-year United Airlines employee (A&P mechanic following his WWII Pacific Theater service who then moved into the cockpit and eventually retired as a flight engineer on 747s) had one of these wire strippers in his huge tool collection which I inherited -- the patent on it goes WAY back, it's THAT good. Keep 'em flying! ✈️
I do agree with you on using crimped connections. The reason given to me being in the electronic business for years is that stranded wire is used over solid core wire because of its durability from vibration or constant movement. When you solder connections you convert the section to solid core wire causing a weak point.
I have used liquid electrical tape, but not on bare wire. I use it for extension or power cords where the external cover is nicked or torn but the individual wire insulation is intact. It works great for that, and also to reinforce the strain fitting on a tools power cord. As for repairing connections, I generally use automatic strippers, solder, and plain old tubing shrunk with a butane torch..
We're real... The offsetting of the connectors is just so it'll fit without a big bulge inside a loom. Otherwise it's not an issue. That crimp connector is fine. There's little current going through there and there's negligible voltage drop or signal loss. A good, waterproof seal is over the connection is really important for obvious reasons. Thanks for showing us the various methods so that we don't have to go out an by the products and test them ourselves.
Mr. O, I am a certified International Organization Standardization Wiring Tech. (ISO) for short, The only thing I have to say about your repair is, PERFECT!!!! It would 100% pass visual and physical testing.
Expert wire crimper here. Doctorate degree in wire crimping. You're obviously wrong. Based on my expert wire crimp studies. Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
Hi Mrs. O. I added peppermint oil and cinnamon oil to my bulk fluid film and it seems to deter the mice and squirrels and whatever! The uninsulated butt connectors I like the best, but I also use the insulated w/adhesive! They all have their place in the auto repair bizz! My opinion!
My many years of field work (automotive, industrial electrical, machinery, computer controlled control and data systems) have left me of the opinion that uninsulated wire terminals and splices insulated with one or more shrink sleeves are best. They are the most foolproof, leaving no doubts as to conductor engagement or security. They are much smaller in diameter with less snag surfaces and hide better in a cable (with strategically chosen shrink sleeve color). At wire terminations, they look "factory" with the shrink sleeve neatly shrunk right to the terminal's ring or blade; plus, the sleeve can extend over and insulate an entire slide connection. They are not subject to compromised insulators (especially those of vinyl, nylon are better) that are so common in the work of electricians (about 80% of them) who insist on using the uninsulated bit of their crimpers on insulated terminals for "better connections." (As the troubleshooting engineer on a project gone wrong in Virginia many years ago, I could not disabuse the lead electrician from his unshakeable belief in using the wrong crimper bit--the whole system was wired his way.) To this day, I prefer my old, taped-up, long-handled Klein crimpers for perfect uninsulated crimps. As you know, a small heat gun is way faster and easier for shrinking sleeves. I get your joke though. I've watched amused as technicians used match after match in the attempt to make shrinking easier. In a pinch, far from the rest of my tools, I've been known to shrink the sleeve around a newly soldered repair with the cooler parts of my soldering iron. Oh, on shrink sleeve, that newfangled glue-impregnated sleeve is certainly a good development over what I'd used for years (although without any problems). On to wire stripping. Funny you should mention stripping with one's teeth; on my tween years' electrical projects, that was my method of choice; I still bear the chipped front teeth. Next came the trusty pen knife, wire cutters, and those little (Ideal, I think) one-size-fits-all strippers. I've stripped more wires of all gauges with those last than with any other kind. I wore the rubber right off my first pair doing industrial wiring and panel building. From the tiniest data wire to multi-conductor SJ cords, they all yielded to my finely developed "feel." But, oh, my aching thumb. I never much trusted strippers with multiple notches especially when going between solid and stranded conductors. I no longer wire professionally, but my arthritic fingers won't bear the pain of wire stripping manually, let alone feel for the perfect nick-less depth. I bought my first "automatic" stripper last year; it's a Klein Katapult (11063W), and it has been very good, stripping from 8 to 22AWG nick-lessly since it differentiates between solid and stranded conductors. Wires thinner than 22 AWG are still done manually.
I like the clear heat shrink. It lets you see the connector is centered before heating it. Nice job Eric. Can you stick a mouse trap in there while you’re at it?😀
Very informative vid I always cut far enough back to eliminate any corrosion. And I start applying heat at center of heat shrink and work way to ends to make sure heated gooey goop gets migrated to the ends of shrink . From one Eric to another YOU ROCK !!
Hi Eric o, been a subscriber for years now and i come across lots of wiring issues and seen different ways of repair. At the end of the day a good fix is a happy customer no matter how it is repaired and if the cars got the crusties dont think the customer will worry how its done. Keep up the good work Mr O. Also has Mrs O not been on the tools in a while.😂
41 Feet 1/8" Clear Heat Shrink Tubing Roll 3:1 - amzn.to/4ecwLob
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KNIPEX Automatic Wire Stripper 10-24 AWG - amzn.to/3yDHWpu
Thanks for Posting the Link for the Knipex Wire stripper. I'm definitely going to get one. Been using little blue-point ( snap-on ) Little wire stripper for years. lately been using the Klein tiny yellow handled ones. basically same as blue point - but with cushier handles. i'm older - i like a little more cush in these old hands.
Top notch repair of those wires under that car !!! You are a Master with that torch 🔥 in hand. not a burn mark in sight !
i'm a Heat gun Man myself. Everyone to thier own. Results - is All that Matters !
Eric, I really appreciate you taking the time to show & tell us viewers which tools and supplies you are using and why you like them. It’s nice coming from you because we see you “walk the walk” and not just “talk the talk” Thank you for helping me and so many others!!!!
taaalkin about stripers. back in the mid 80,s. mate i was traveling with up to townsville, where the army airforce navy is, dont tell the chinese, his bro was a seargent in the army, 20 odd yrs old.. at a nite club, his buddy,s said, dare you to ask the striper for a date.. he did.. she was surprised as, being a striper guys were scared of her.. 2c..
Which code is Yada Yada? I don't think I've ever seen that one on my code reader.
Eric, here is one for you your mini torch get only 370 degrees hotter then most heat guns so keep on using it.
Ive repaired thousands of wires but the reason I watch this is the commentary, pure gold!
It's better than the message in the video. Eric needs a late night show🤣
Truth right there
@@luisamoa2500 Sorry, I don't follow 🤔🤔🤔
"A squeeze and a tug, a move that every young man knows." THAT is gold.
Hahaha same here
OMG !!! Crimp connectors, heart shrink with an open flame, all the same color wire, and the thumb nail, in one video ! I'm going to have to mix a strong Chocolate Milk, and just set here a while to let my eyes heal !
Not sure I'll ever be the same !!
all we need is the can of brake klean with the intro music!
Or the fluid film sound effect.
I love when you piss off the haters, Eric! 😂😂😂
Piss off, or piss on? Same same I guess!
I have been retired for 7 years now, but for the previous 40 years I was a auto repair business owner and chief mechanic just like you. What you do and how you go about repairing things is almost identical to what I did for those 40 years. When I watch your repair videos, it is like watching me. They say everyone has a doppelganger out there in this world and I have found mine. From your wife working with you in your business to the way you just go about things on a daily basis, it is like a duplicate of my 40 years in the auto repair business. Keep up the great work and making your videos. I enjoy watching the very much.
Eric O's propensity to pour petrol on the title and then play with matches, knows no bounds 😂
Have you seen a hornet's nest? I have a poking stick I want to try out ....
@@SouthMainAuto why not really go to town and go at the hornets nest with big nasty? 😂
I gave you a thumbs up just for the use of the word "propensity"....to pour petrol!
@@SouthMainAutoWould that hornet’s nest not be named Mrs. O? 😁
@SouthMainAuto OH those nests are so much fun to play with!!!
After 50 years of stripping wire I can honestly say that I figured it out how to strip a wire with a razer knife without knicking the wire. If you want some comments try that.
You should do a troll video using the gas axe for the heatshrink. The comment section would be a sight to behold. Stay safe and awesome out there, Mr O.
There's no reason that a skilled guy could not use a gas axe to activate the heat shrink. It would look a bit odd. Just wave it like a fairy wand at the right distance.
Before I knew about small handheld torches or if they even existed, I used my ole "bic concert light".
The minute he said he was gonna piss off the internet...... I gave a thumbs up.... love it lol
I have the H F version of the Knipex. For the 10 times a year I use it it works great. Next year for April Fools you need to stuff a bunch of Wago connectors under a car. 😊
🤣😂🤣😂 (p.s. I don't like Wago connectors even in a house)
I love how you do your work the way you know how and dont give a crap about pissing someone off... Thanks Eric!!
Your wiring is a thing of beauty. Open flames will destroy the wire.... If you Light It On Fire. I bought some liquid insulation, threw it away after five years, just couldn't bring myself to put it on anything. Thanks for the videos!
The stuff is gold in a pinch.
I lightly dab it on soldered wire joins before the first heat shrink layer. Old habit... Not so much necessary anymore with the availability glue-included heat shrink tubing.
@@russellstephan6844 the glue included stuff is mint and a standard in the shop I'm in, I almost don't believe in using anything else, had a tailgate stop working with four open circuits because someone repaired the wires using some subpar clear heat shrink
Yeah, it is very easy to overheat the insulation, then it hardens and cracks after a while.
I think SMA has to do a list of Eric O. Quotes? “There’s that guy” “There’s your problem lady” “Squeeze and tug” “Chevy Thunder”. You can put them on T-shirts and sell the swag! People’s Republic of NY! Watching this while eating dinner and can barely finish the meal!
Don't forget "We're gonna talk about strippers-- I'll show you my favorite pair." 😃
Great idea!!! Hope he sees this and makes those shirts or hats! I'd buy some.
PRNY would probably tax him to death
Hey it's that guy!! I would buy that one
I'd buy a "there's your problem, lady" Tee-shirt!
Stopped at the Twin Kiss yesterday when rolling by Avoca. Now I know why Eric visits regularly. Highly recommended.
Planning a motorcycle trip out this summer.
Will honk as I go by (yes I'm that guy).
@@cgmoog Three things to do when visiting Avoca: SMA, Wilberts U-Pull-It and Twin Kiss.
Strippers and a squeeze and a tug! Auto mechanic family channel! Love it.
Was in the communications business for 45 years. Early on in my career, I learned how to strip wire from an old Bell Telephone engineer. He used a small pair of dikes (diagonal cutters for the PC crowd). He would pinch the jacket and make a small nip. then flip the dikes over and pull the jacket away. He had done tons of these procedures over his career and he made it look easy. I still do this today for small signal wires. I use a Klein auto stripper for bigger stuff.
The old grip and tug, I've heard it'll make you go blind! Thanks for the video!
I think that is a myth....
@@SouthMainAuto you need glasses don't you?.. stopped just in time huh?😉
Or grow hair on your palms.
@@SouthMainAuto Dunno, could be hit or myth 😁
Grows hair on your palms.
I love how u fix it correctly the first time. No come backs for supid shit. Perfect.
Important safety message.Dont hit your thumb with the open flame .love your stuff young man ,more please .
Anybody automatically just give a like to SMA vids when you get started just because you know you’ll like it? Yeah, me too.
The only thing liquid electric tape is good for is covering piercings you make probing wires. I use the older style strippers to cut the insulation so I can twist it off. Wire is now ready with a tight twist for open barrel crimp. I do it the same as you after that on my 1991 Chevy 1500. Most of the connectors on the engine harness have been replaced the same way due to age. Little guys were falling apart causing havoc with the money light. Good visual inspection told me to replace the little guys and the money light went out. Yay Chevy Thunder! Thanks Eric, I learned it from you, no more soldering and good heat shrink, just non-insulated crimps and good heat shrink.
I’m using it to fix a hack repair. But, the vehicle is not in a corrosive environment. Time will tell…
Hats off to you, Eric! How you manage to avoid burning your fingers while using that torch is beyond me...
I'm in Iowa, so I see plenty of cars drenched in the battery acid they treat our roads with in the winter. I have resealed nicked wire insulation with liquid electrical tape for decades and had no problems. Just as long as the damage is fresh and no corrosion has set in.
I plan on using liquid tape for some redneck wiring mods that need to be sealed.
Mr O feeding himself by baiting his own followers to comment! This guy is top of the food chain!! Genius!!
Top quality commentary as ever mate, from "That guy" from over the pond...
" A squeeze and a tug, which any young man knows"
😂
Priceless.
Ya know 1 if the best things about this channel is the auto repair shop commentary but with a little UA-cam flair tossed in.
Keep up the good work
I was an instructor & had certifications on aircraft cable, wire, & connector repair. Good to see you using a method & product I recommended in one of your previous videos. TE Connectivity sells "Environmental Splices" and heat shrink designed for and specifically made for use on these splices. If you use sealed heat shrink there is no need for liquid tape.
Perhaps you can answer a question for me. On Facebook I see multiple ads for Solder Stick and invariably there are comments about using them on military aircraft. I find it hard to believe such an inferior connection is approved for aviation. Comments?
I know you think nobody wants to watch you do wiring repairs, but I could watch and listen to you do wire repairs and brakes jobs for hours Eric!
I absolutely LOVE your commentary. Such a natural gift of wit you have with calling out haters!!
This is also the way I do all my wiring connections. With the correct crimp strength, you will break the wire strands before it pulls out and it full movement of the wire outside unlike how solder creates stiff areas at the repair site.
Keeo doing what you do!! I watch every SMA upload.
Hey Mr O hope you and the family had a wonderful Memorial Day weekend thanks for the video
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ You have some of the best troubleshooting videos by far. It just drives me crazy to watch someone heat shrink tubing with a lighter. For most who don’t do it on a regular basis a cheap heat gun with the circular attachment is the best. Both work but way less chance to overcook the tubing with a heat gun. Thanks for sharing all your great troubleshooting and videos. They are invaluable!
The Knipex auto stripper is my favorite. My grandson likes to strip the wires for me when I am working and it is pretty foolproof even for a 5 year old!
The Knipex is nice. I have the bigger model than the one EricO uses. Just as a reminder, if they start having issues, the cutting blades can be replaced.
These are the kind that more or less pinch the insulation and pull it off rather than slice it? I have a real cheap version with probably 10s of thousands of uses and really love them but they're showing their age and are rather crappy generally. If they are I'll get a set. I've never been a fan of the slicing type ones: I've never known one not to knick.
@@paulmoir4452 The Knipex gently (you can adjust the tension) slice the insulation on four sides and pulls it off
Eric & Vanessa, always great content! Was an auto mechanic after completing high school vocational trade. Then onto jet engines. Wiring Diagram's (WD's) are essential in both fields. Not only with diagnosing faults with what ever is on the road, or in the air, but also with computerized diagnostic test equipment. Hands down, understanding wiring diagrams is key to success. Repaired many faults with Jet Engine Test Cell equipment, jet engine wiring and associated components with using WD's as the source document.
Eric O, my man of upstate NY. Keep up the great work and explanation. This is what UA-cam is about.
Greetings South Main Auto. Eric, hands down, you are the best overall mechanic I have ever witnessed. Thank you for the great videos. Have a blessed day.
The dry humor is 100%.😂😂😂😂 No notes. Good job.🤘🏽🖖🏼
Eric these Chevys are keeping your family well-fed. Bless the Chevrolet company.
Now that’s the correct method, nice work
You are always so modest. I like the way you think and explain what you are thinking.
Rodent damage is covered under "comprehensive insurance" up to and including replacing whole harness with brand new. Not just repair.
Interesting and hadn't thought about that. That makes sense though.
True, but the deductible is probably higher than the repair.
@@robertheinkel6225 usually comp is 500 or less in most cases.
@@robertheinkel6225 id bet you didn't know that either
The last thing I want a OEM service tech doing is a full harness replacement. A sub harness is a definite maybe.
Hey - I'm real! :) I used your 10mm mini roll last Christmas "beefing up" some connectors that power those lawn decorations. I'm pretty sure the manufacturers use the cheapest, thinnest crappiest wire they can get their hands on. Worked beautifully! I keep learning stuff from Mr. O all the time!
The uninsulated butt connector with adheisive-lined heat shrink is my favorite way to join wires, when possible. The clear heat shrink is great because you can see if the joint has been compromised in the future. Not sure if they may clear heat shrink in 4:1, but the greater the ration the more durable the heat shrink tends to be against chafing.
What I like is you offer information, you point out pluses and minuses, and why you do what you do. What makes us like you is your honesty and the fact that you’ve been there done that. We get to learn from your experience! Always great to watch you. Glad GM keeps you in business!!😂
I love crimp and seal connectors made by anchor. With the adhesive never had a failure, cars, boats, RVs motorcycles. Water dog out 😂
The return of innuendo filled video. It never fails to entertain.
Western Union splice + solder and heat shrink is my preferred way to splice low voltage wires in this type of situation.
I was thinking of a different favorite stripper but that's a different subject... This is exactly how I do 99% of the time. Great demonstration!
IKR? I was thinking, hmm, the 1 handed stripper, the two handed stripper, the mini stripper, the stripper that can handle the large gauge, the automatic stripper, the stripper with 2 legs with pole riding skills... oh wait, nevermind.
Do you get a squeeze and a tug?
I perked up when you said strippers MrO , your work never ceases to provide good content.
Eric I love your videos but you're commentary it's fantastic I love your sense of humor you're a damn good mechanic
HVAC/R tech here and I like T wire strippers and a separate Klein crimper tool. As far as shrink tube I have the gun and micro torch and use whichever is closest.
Speaking of micro torches- they look like they’re perfect for tight spots. Any suggestions or Amazon links?
This is my favorite nice steady flame and lock control.
Bernz-O-Matic ST2200T Micro Flame Butane Torch Kit, Small, Black
Ok... I got rid of my car... Now what? ;)
Another great one Eric! lol
In California where crappy cars last forever I soldier and heat shrink. Back east the crappy car will be crushed before any of your repairs have any issues. Keep up the great work. Thanks for the video.
The point he was making is that every connector is crimped and never soldered. I can't recall ever seeing a factory crimp fail in my 41 years of auto repair. Wire breakage, damaged insulation, terminal tension, yes. Actual crimp failure? Never.
Powersports tech here up in Ontario, snowmobiles/atv/SxS - plenty of interesting DIY solutions on equipment, especially wiring in accessories or repairs. Classic e-tape and marrettes of course. Have definitely picked up on yours and others good habits over the years and nice to see my previous repairs coming through still in good shape. Appreciate the Amazon links to your stuff too, lets me go to our parts manager with some quality suggestions for shop supply restocks! Appreciate the effort to share your experience, always enjoy the insight, banter, and new ways to approach my own jobs.
I’m here for the becoming triggered and for the Chevy THUNDER!!
I’m not triggered and I heard the THUNDER.
HEY!! One outta two ain’t bad. What’s for lunch?
Nicely done!! You da man. Say HI! to the family and keep the dirty side down.
Oh, I do love my knippex. Great tool!! I have 3 of them. Good stuff.
Yes, it was Uncle Joey (Dave Coulier).
I prefer to use the bare crimps, they're less bulky than the crimp and seal ones, plus you don't have to worry about piercing the heat shrink. My favorite strippers are the OTC automatic ones. They actually cut the insulation instead of just ripping it off. Doesn't have a depth stop and don't work if you've only got a very small nub of wire left.
The "Cut. It. Out!" hand gesture is indeed from Uncle Joey, Full House TV show. Dave Coulier! But he was doin' the "Cut. It. Out!" hand signal thing on the old show Out of Control, way before Full House was a thing, back in the olden days. That show was... well, yeah, out of control indeed. :)
Very well said and very good video Eric. Thank you
my favorite was miss lola down at the boom boom room.
I watch Eric because you can always buy an education, but you can't buy experience, unless you watch Eric.
They make these heat shrink tubes similar to butt splice but instead of crimping there is a solder ring inside the heat shrink.
You heat it up and it shrinks the tubing around wires and the solder melts and makes a solid GOOD connection.
Super easy too no need to find that crimper that fits that pin size.
They use them in aviation so they're trustworthy
We used an infrared heat gun that got hot enough to melt the solder ring relatively quickly
Junk.
Did you watch the last 2 minutes of the video, how EricO says that those Crimp and cold solder heat seal ones are VERY failure prone ?
How do I know you are a liar... Let me count the ways.
1. To achieve the melting point of the solder means exceeding the melting, and usually the burning point of the parent wire insulation.
2. The temperature window between the melting of the solder, and melting a hole in the shrink tubing is VERY narrow. Causing a ruptured seal.
3. There is no flux which leads to little to no wetting of the wire. You have a cold solder joint despite having burnt insulation everywhere. The temperatures and insulation issues also contribute to additional oxides.. and no flux.
4. Solder is prohibited in aviation by default. There are narrow circumstances that allow it. Solder is the exception, not the expectation. At no point are these all in one solutions ever allowed. Non insulated crimps with clear lined heat shrink is allowed much of the time.
I work in aviation maintenance, those solder shrink connectors are used in very very specific circumstances, not super common. The thing with airplane wiring is airplanes and their wires are super clean, and the wires are a higher grade (more strands for a given wire gauge, and each individual strand is tinned). Where I have seen solder shrink connectors used is attaching a ground wire to the shielding of shielded wire. To the guy who said "soldering is prohibited in aviation by default", that's the dumbest thing I've heard all day, you're talking out your a$$!!!! I solder in connections on a regular basis.
I'm a retired heavy duty truck and city bus mechanic and I have used the liquid tape but only on repairs to interior wires where there is no chance of water infiltration. Also it usually takes two to three light applications. All my other wire repairs were done just like you showed. Barrel crimp and flamed heat shrink. Cheers
I always did what you’re doing and soldered the crimp joint/butconnector. It just ensured that there wouldn’t get a hotspot where the pinch was. I always enjoy watching you continue this art form that’s slowly dying.
Mr. o I like that you don’t let them get you down just move forward and don’t look back. Hi Mrs. o water dog out. 😂
IMO, whatever method you use to splice wiring, just make sure that you have a solid connection and have it properly sealed.
Good tutorial Eric.
I hate that I know this but it was Joey on full house. My daughter watched it every day after school.
TGIF was my jam as a kid and that was when it was on :)
I only paid attention to Aunt Becky...
Uncle Joey had a girlfriend named Alannis. She wrote a song about him.
@@misterhat5823 and then there was Topanga 😍
I have a roll of 3M wire sealing tape that has butyl rubber sealer in it, once its on there it seals it and you ain't gettin off! We used it to seal any repairs on the hanging rear lights on trucks, It works!!👍
Mr O, when you start out poking the bear and pissing people off....... i am all in!! Love it!! And the repair will outlive those snow belt specials for years down the road!! Till they hit the junkyard!!
Hahaha 😆 Good video!
10:10 I didn't even notice your thumb until you pointed it out 😂
I've used a similar method for as long as I can remember. I use non-insulated butt connectors and put heat shrink over the top of them. Never had one break or have an issue and it gave the illusion that it's soldered under there. 😂
Yea I don't understand all the heat for that method or the adhesive lined heat shrink and marine grade butt connectors. Like Eric was saying, just look at an OEM connector. There is a mechanical fastener with the wire to the pin and a mechanical water proofing with the O-ring or weather packing in the connector. I would trust the adhesive lined heat shrink over that and those work great to begin with.
I've done many wire repairs. I like solder and shrink tubing, for single, double and quad ought (0, 00, 0000) cable especially in diesel applications.
Smaller than 12 gauge I have used crimp splices. We didn't have that fine deluxe selection of non-insulated splices like you have there.
Also, didn't have the liquid tape until after 2016, but I found it does a very good job, albeit a little messy unless you put something under it to catch the drippings.
Open flame? YOU BET! Propane torch with a smaller tip and, being careful, it works great!
Good one Mr. O!
Twist, insert, squeeze, tug
I agree Eric, The non-insulated butt connector with heat shrink is my weapon of choice. You can use the pointy part of the crimper to give the best tightest crimp possible and it provides the smallest repair footprint. The marine grade heat-shrink should take care of all environmental issues.
I must've entered an alternate universe; an SMA video with no lawnmower or leaf blower in the background. Or my hearing is getting worse. This right here is my preferred method, the metal connectors with shrink tube. Always use an open flame. If the car is leaking gas, the shrink tube will melt faster 😂😂😂
lol nope... it's your hearing... old mate made his cameo at 41 seconds in!
I approve 100% of this wiring repair method....all the way from far West Texas.
Down here in the South, I have so few wire repairs that I just use wire nuts
😂
Eric O’- make ‘em mad about open flames. Get it done your way. Really piss em off by making s’mores with the torch then repair more harness’.
Keep the videos and commentary coming. Appreciate your time and effort to upload vids.
I think this was a mighty fine repair. Crip and seal I’m a fan. It’s the best fix for this application. So anyone with complaints go watch Raymond Rainman or someone else. I’ll stay with the man who does the best and always is entertaining.
Just to throw this out there.....they also use those barrel connectors on my grandkids power wheels...thanks for the video lesson Mr O. Love from AZ ❤
I just love watching your video Eric O
I just had a tip for the electrical tape on the 10 mm socket. You can use a battery operated tool and start the tape on the socket manually then use the tool to wrap it up the socket so it’s quicker then by hand.
I remember you doing a tool review for the Power Probe PPSK butane torch and I absolutely love that thing! Coupled with the Solder-Seal (solder and heatshrink) its an unbeatable combo for wire repair: no open flame and doesnt burn the shrink tube. I've had butt connectors fail before even while using the "correct" and various other methods of crimping. With the solder-seal, they have held true with no water intrusion on various different applications over many years of service (golf cart, truck, boat, atv ect.)
Always appreciate u humorously sharing ur vast knowledge of auto diagnostic and repair. They are very helpful, thank you!
We use a silicone lined heat shrink that seals like crimp and seal butt slices. We also use butt slices along with Deutsch connectors. Although I work in a manufacturing setting.
Mercedes was using solder pins at connector terminals into the 90s! And they were not weather tight!
I used the barrel connectors and heat shrink to wire my roof rack lights. I like barrel connectors.
I have those same Kuh-Nipex and I have used them for years. Love 'em. That being said, I still use my thumb nail half the time.
During my 35 years as an aerospace technician I've used several strippers. For years my favorite ones were the T-Strippers by Ideal but the powers that be decided that any mechanical stripper risked nicking the conductor and creating a potential failure point and so were banned in favor of thermal strippers. I believe the brand name is Hotweezers. they look like tweezers with notches in the jaws and a wire going to a power supply that heated the jaw and melted the insulation rather than cutting it. On a work bench they worked very well, if you can ignore the smell, but I would hate to try dragging them under my car. right now I still use my trusty T-strippers and I have another one very similar to your Knipex that are labeled PYT4 that seem to work well.
I used those heat activated connectors. The solder rings take much longer to melt where the heat gun doesn’t work well. We found ourselves putting direct heat on the ring and end up melting the plastic connector. We ended up slipping heat shrink before this to protect the melted connectors. Eric O. had his share of issues with these connectors. Class is in session today. I hope to learn something today to apply at the shop.
Hey Eric, since you asked, my go-to wire stripper is my Stripmaster 45-292 (by IDEAL Electrical) -- handles 10-22 AWG, precise cutting blades, comfortable for long-term use, quality construction, and has yet to fail me, ever. I highly recommend this tool unless working in super-tight confines where the horizontal jaws movement may not be ideal. 👍
This is what I am using for my airplane build. It can be bulky in tight confines as you say, but this is pretty much the standard tool in the avionics world. It is quick and accurate particularly when installing terminals for high density d-shell and similar connectors.
@@LTVoyager My late father, a 39-year United Airlines employee (A&P mechanic following his WWII Pacific Theater service who then moved into the cockpit and eventually retired as a flight engineer on 747s) had one of these wire strippers in his huge tool collection which I inherited -- the patent on it goes WAY back, it's THAT good. Keep 'em flying! ✈️
I do agree with you on using crimped connections. The reason given to me being in the electronic business for years is that stranded wire is used over solid core wire because of its durability from vibration or constant movement. When you solder connections you convert the section to solid core wire causing a weak point.
I have some automatic strippers I bought from Radio Shack about 25 years ago and they are awesome!
I have used liquid electrical tape, but not on bare wire. I use it for extension or power cords where the external cover is nicked or torn but the individual wire insulation is intact. It works great for that, and also to reinforce the strain fitting on a tools power cord. As for repairing connections, I generally use automatic strippers, solder, and plain old tubing shrunk with a butane torch..
We're real...
The offsetting of the connectors is just so it'll fit without a big bulge inside a loom. Otherwise it's not an issue.
That crimp connector is fine. There's little current going through there and there's negligible voltage drop or signal loss. A good, waterproof seal is over the connection is really important for obvious reasons.
Thanks for showing us the various methods so that we don't have to go out an by the products and test them ourselves.
Mr. O, I am a certified International Organization Standardization Wiring Tech. (ISO) for short, The only thing I have to say about your repair is, PERFECT!!!! It would 100% pass visual and physical testing.
Barell connector and heat shrink are the weapon of choice at my shop, it’s the way to go in my opinion.
Expert wire crimper here. Doctorate degree in wire crimping. You're obviously wrong. Based on my expert wire crimp studies. Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
Hi Mrs. O. I added peppermint oil and cinnamon oil to my bulk fluid film and it seems to deter the mice and squirrels and whatever! The uninsulated butt connectors I like the best, but I also use the insulated w/adhesive! They all have their place in the auto repair bizz! My opinion!
My many years of field work (automotive, industrial electrical, machinery, computer controlled control and data systems) have left me of the opinion that uninsulated wire terminals and splices insulated with one or more shrink sleeves are best. They are the most foolproof, leaving no doubts as to conductor engagement or security. They are much smaller in diameter with less snag surfaces and hide better in a cable (with strategically chosen shrink sleeve color). At wire terminations, they look "factory" with the shrink sleeve neatly shrunk right to the terminal's ring or blade; plus, the sleeve can extend over and insulate an entire slide connection. They are not subject to compromised insulators (especially those of vinyl, nylon are better) that are so common in the work of electricians (about 80% of them) who insist on using the uninsulated bit of their crimpers on insulated terminals for "better connections." (As the troubleshooting engineer on a project gone wrong in Virginia many years ago, I could not disabuse the lead electrician from his unshakeable belief in using the wrong crimper bit--the whole system was wired his way.) To this day, I prefer my old, taped-up, long-handled Klein crimpers for perfect uninsulated crimps.
As you know, a small heat gun is way faster and easier for shrinking sleeves. I get your joke though. I've watched amused as technicians used match after match in the attempt to make shrinking easier. In a pinch, far from the rest of my tools, I've been known to shrink the sleeve around a newly soldered repair with the cooler parts of my soldering iron. Oh, on shrink sleeve, that newfangled glue-impregnated sleeve is certainly a good development over what I'd used for years (although without any problems).
On to wire stripping. Funny you should mention stripping with one's teeth; on my tween years' electrical projects, that was my method of choice; I still bear the chipped front teeth. Next came the trusty pen knife, wire cutters, and those little (Ideal, I think) one-size-fits-all strippers. I've stripped more wires of all gauges with those last than with any other kind. I wore the rubber right off my first pair doing industrial wiring and panel building. From the tiniest data wire to multi-conductor SJ cords, they all yielded to my finely developed "feel." But, oh, my aching thumb. I never much trusted strippers with multiple notches especially when going between solid and stranded conductors. I no longer wire professionally, but my arthritic fingers won't bear the pain of wire stripping manually, let alone feel for the perfect nick-less depth. I bought my first "automatic" stripper last year; it's a Klein Katapult (11063W), and it has been very good, stripping from 8 to 22AWG nick-lessly since it differentiates between solid and stranded conductors. Wires thinner than 22 AWG are still done manually.
I like the clear heat shrink. It lets you see the connector is centered before heating it. Nice job Eric. Can you stick a mouse trap in there while you’re at it?😀
Very informative vid I always cut far enough back to eliminate any corrosion.
And I start applying heat at center of heat shrink and work way to ends to make sure heated gooey goop gets migrated to the ends of shrink . From one Eric to another YOU ROCK !!
Hi Eric o, been a subscriber for years now and i come across lots of wiring issues and seen different ways of repair. At the end of the day a good fix is a happy customer no matter how it is repaired and if the cars got the crusties dont think the customer will worry how its done. Keep up the good work Mr O. Also has Mrs O not been on the tools in a while.😂