To be honest, there's not anything that we would change. This oven has been a beast and is working wonderfully. We eventually made it larger than what we started at asl well, and it was very easy to expand. We doo have some videos where we break down all the parts we used, but the main ones to convert the heater are Inkbird PID Controller - amzn.to/34hY92s 3/8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12-VDC - amzn.to/34m0RDZ
Ordered all my parts, about to start building my cabinet. You just put the electric opening valve in front of the low/high adjustment valve and left it fac-tree from there on forward?
What liquid thread tape did you use? I would be interested in seeing the actual fittings up close to get a better idea of how it all is suppose to be fitted once I'm done. You had the camera zoomed in at first and it seems like it auto adjusted back out, but would've been awesome to see the assembly up close. And one last question, where did you get your metal sheets from and what was the cost for them? Oh yeah, what kind of wire (12 volt power source) do I need?
Murrica Motors I’m working in putting an in depth part video together. This is my first time doing it, so I’m learning that the more info and close up shots the better. We hope to bring more in depth content as we go along. Thank you for asking the questions. 🙏🤙
Hi great idea. Can I ask , is the solenoid an igniter as well as a valve? The reason I ask is that my heater has a push button manual igniter. Thanks for any help and great video.
@@710performance Hi I can’t seem to fin a Mr heater anywhere do you know a link to an available supply. Or I have come across a Draper that you initially start with the push button igniter then once running if it goes out has an auto ignite. Would this be any good for this system? Thanks
Sorry for the dumb questions but can u point me in the right direction in the materials you used to force the air into the oven.. meaning the aluminum looking parts that transfer the heat from the heater into the oven. Getting my materials together that’s all I’m missing.. thanks in advance!
Bought one of these forced air heaters to use as a makeshift greenhouse heater which I was planning on adding a thermostat to, then when I got it home, realized it had to be manually ignited. After frantically searching for a solution I found your amazing video explaining exactly how to go about sorting it. Thanks so much for this ! Quick question : If you had to buy an adapter to attach the 3/8" solenoid valve, would it be possible just to use a different sized valve to miss out that step ? Thanks
Still working on it and have another question. What about some kind of safety feedback : if the pilot for some reason does not ignite, then the gas will still be flowing without your knowledge.
I have a 20k btu dyno glo wall heater, but has only 3 settings, burns me out, I use it for indoor use, my only heat source, can it be changed from manual to thermostat control? I don't understand this stuff very well, so you will have to spell it out to me exactly what is needed and how it is done, if it can be done, Thanks for any help you can offer me.... Jim
Hey man what’s going on? I’m building a propane oven 3x3x5 and I have the same heater as yours and i bought the pid and solenoid off the links in your bio. I wanted to see if I could get some help wiring it all up.. do you have a diagram or something? I tried to follow your video buts it’s kinda too zoomed out to actually how you’re connecting everything and the video cut off when you connected the solenoid to the 12v cord.. so I needed help can you list the parts you grabbed at Home Depot the fittings.. and how did you wire the solenoid to the 12v and also how do you wire the pid controller to be wired to the solenoid
Hey King we're going to make another video in the next few days going over the oven and different parts of it, but I don't want you to have to wait that long, if you can email us at Info@710Performance.com we'll help you out.
Love you're video. Helps alot.. I do have a question, I purchased same burner upgraded to electric Sylnoid but for some reason when 1st plug it is runs how it supposed to. When it cycles to come back one the burner blows very low and can't get it to run hotter. Ill have to turn off the gas and turn it back one threw the nozzle then it'll start running how it supposed to. Any help would be awesom. Thank you
Hey I am currently trying to build my own powder coating oven and I bought all of the parts you put in the youtube video. The thing I can not figure out is how you connected the inkbird to get power and work in sync with the heater.
I have not found a flow chart or schematic, do you have one for the PID? I'm a bit lost on what it does. I'm guessing you could wire this up as a controller with a 20 amp contactor the control up to 4 of these heaters. I an Ag application
WHAT SIZE IS THE DUCT PIECE THAT YOU USED FOR THIS? I USE A PROPANE FORCED AIR HEATER AS WELL BUT WHEN I USE A 8IN 45 DUCTING ELBOW TO THE HEATER AND PUT IT IN BACK OF THE OVEN, IT "HUMS" REALLY LOUD AND NOT MUCH HEAT IS PUT OFF. BUT IF I TAKE THE HEATER BACK AWAY FROM THE OVEN AND REMOVE THE DUCTING THE HEATER WORKS LIKE NORMAL. ANY IDEAS? IS YOUR DUCT PIECE RIVETED TO THE OUTSIDE RIM OF THE HEATER OR THE SILVER INSIDE LINER PIECE?
it's riveted to the outside rim of the heater, not the inside rim. It could be causing a lack of airflow, for thee heater to work correctly it needs the right amount of propane and air. What i think is happening with you is it is blocking or restricting air flow somehow. We're using an 8" elbow, we actually use two of them now, and we don't have any issues. What size is your heater?
@@flexxin_daily5127 I don't know if the vent would be part of it, but we only have a 2 1/2" vent on the side, and we can open or close it, and we've never had to open it in 4 years. So you vent might be a bit too big, and in the wrong spot. also that heater may be a bit small for that oven. We have an oven about the same size and we're using a 425,000 BTU heater.
Can you message me please got some questions as don't fully understand What does the solenoid actually do does it shut off the gas ? Does the ignition need wiring in aswell Is a great video just not the clearest
The heater should already have an auto light ignition. Yes the solenoid shuts off the flow of gas to the heater, the PID controller controls the solenoid and opens it when it needs heat (to turn on the flow of gas, the auto light will then light it) when the oven is to set temp, the PID controller shuts the solenoid which closes the valve and shuts off the flow of gas. The way we have it set up, it actually completely shuts off the heater, it doesn't just close the solenoid.
There have been many people who have built these systems just from referring to our video. I'm sure you can do it as well. We do not currently have the time to do it. Thank you for asking though
Can I ship mine out to you so you can convert mine? I have the same heater. I want to put a thermostat on the wall and use this heater to heat my shop. Any ideas?
This is something I had though of as well. You could do it yourself much cheaper than sending it out here and the cost of shipping to go back, especially with the big heater.
Hello, Nice project! I have bought my self a burner. But i don't understand the part of the ignition. Hoe does the ignition work? Because on my burner i have to do it manualy.
@@710performance Hello thanks for your quick reply! I have looked your video for a couple of times :-). Oke you are using a manual egnition burner. I also have a manual egnition burner without gasregulator. You replace it with the solenoid. But the part I don't understand is what makes the spark ignite know. The solinoid only letting the gas through, right?
Hey guys, so i purchased a Mr. Heater 170,000 BTU heater, it came with a solenoid valve already and when connected and first turned on it takes about 5 seconds to ignite (has a built in control model). so i didn't change the solenoid valve but just connected as is (PID controller was setup to just act as a thermostat , off at set temp and on after falling below set temp) my problem is when connected to a 25lb gas cylinder is that after a couple minutes running (240-260 degrees) then it stops heating and i realize that it is trying to restart (igniter running) but no gas... could it be that the cylinder is too small or a faulty solenoid gas valve (i live in jamaica so not cold at all)
@@robinrickhi4934 Let us know how well that size heater works with that size oven. We've had people ask how big of an oven they can build with that size heater, we recommend no larger than 5'x5'x5' but we don't know everything =)
it was always my understanding that you definitely did NOT want to use any sort of open flame heat source, due the extreme volatility of the aerized powder...
I no u might be bizzy how much would you charge me to do me a electric box so I can put it on my oven can u tex me it will be a big help thanks 🙏 I hope u get back to my thanks
These videos are great!
Been following as I build my own oven.
Thanks bud! Most appreciated! We've been following along as you do you build! Great content!
Thanks, ordered the same solenoid for mine!
Hope you enjoy it!
Great video and project. Thanks for sharing.
michele vitarelli thank you! We’re glad you found value in it! Please let us know if you have any questions.
You were going to build this today what, if anything would you change? Part numbers are a great help. Just found you channel/ Good videos
To be honest, there's not anything that we would change. This oven has been a beast and is working wonderfully. We eventually made it larger than what we started at asl well, and it was very easy to expand. We doo have some videos where we break down all the parts we used, but the main ones to convert the heater are Inkbird PID Controller - amzn.to/34hY92s
3/8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12-VDC - amzn.to/34m0RDZ
Depending on the heater you get, you may only need a 1/4" solenoid instead of the 3/8"
Ordered all my parts, about to start building my cabinet. You just put the electric opening valve in front of the low/high adjustment valve and left it fac-tree from there on forward?
Yes
What liquid thread tape did you use? I would be interested in seeing the actual fittings up close to get a better idea of how it all is suppose to be fitted once I'm done. You had the camera zoomed in at first and it seems like it auto adjusted back out, but would've been awesome to see the assembly up close. And one last question, where did you get your metal sheets from and what was the cost for them? Oh yeah, what kind of wire (12 volt power source) do I need?
Murrica Motors I’m working in putting an in depth part video together. This is my first time doing it, so I’m learning that the more info and close up shots the better. We hope to bring more in depth content as we go along. Thank you for asking the questions. 🙏🤙
Great video, Thx.
Glad you liked it!
Hi great idea.
Can I ask , is the solenoid an igniter as well as a valve?
The reason I ask is that my heater has a push button manual igniter.
Thanks for any help and great video.
It does not work as an igniter. You have to get a heater that is auto ignite
@@710performance Hi I can’t seem to fin a Mr heater anywhere do you know a link to an available supply.
Or I have come across a Draper that you initially start with the push button igniter then once running if it goes out has an auto ignite. Would this be any good for this system?
Thanks
Sorry for the dumb questions but can u point me in the right direction in the materials you used to force the air into the oven.. meaning the aluminum looking parts that transfer the heat from the heater into the oven. Getting my materials together that’s all I’m missing.. thanks in advance!
We just used HVAC ducting from Home Depot
Bought one of these forced air heaters to use as a makeshift greenhouse heater which I was planning on adding a thermostat to, then when I got it home, realized it had to be manually ignited. After frantically searching for a solution I found your amazing video explaining exactly how to go about sorting it. Thanks so much for this ! Quick question : If you had to buy an adapter to attach the 3/8" solenoid valve, would it be possible just to use a different sized valve to miss out that step ? Thanks
Still working on it and have another question. What about some kind of safety feedback : if the pilot for some reason does not ignite, then the gas will still be flowing without your knowledge.
You'll know because you'll be able to hear it.
Very useful video bro.
The cigarette butts on the floor are sending my OCD nuts 😂 🤪
Haha, sorry about the cigarette butts. Maybe I should do a video on how to properly dispose of them next!
I have a 20k btu dyno glo wall heater, but has only 3 settings, burns me out, I use it for indoor use, my only heat source, can it be changed from manual to thermostat control? I don't understand this stuff very well, so you will have to spell it out to me exactly what is needed and how it is done, if it can be done, Thanks for any help you can offer me.... Jim
We have not done anything with that specific system so we don’t know for sure if it can be converted or not.
Hey man what’s going on? I’m building a propane oven 3x3x5 and I have the same heater as yours and i bought the pid and solenoid off the links in your bio. I wanted to see if I could get some help wiring it all up.. do you have a diagram or something? I tried to follow your video buts it’s kinda too zoomed out to actually how you’re connecting everything and the video cut off when you connected the solenoid to the 12v cord.. so I needed help can you list the parts you grabbed at Home Depot the fittings.. and how did you wire the solenoid to the 12v and also how do you wire the pid controller to be wired to the solenoid
Hey King we're going to make another video in the next few days going over the oven and different parts of it, but I don't want you to have to wait that long, if you can email us at Info@710Performance.com we'll help you out.
710 Performance email sent. Thank you!
Love you're video. Helps alot.. I do have a question, I purchased same burner upgraded to electric Sylnoid but for some reason when 1st plug it is runs how it supposed to. When it cycles to come back one the burner blows very low and can't get it to run hotter. Ill have to turn off the gas and turn it back one threw the nozzle then it'll start running how it supposed to. Any help would be awesom. Thank you
It sounds like your solenoid my not be opening all the way.
Definitely wasn't. Ordered another one and it works fine thank you
@@adamalma2945 awesome to hear! Your welcome!
Hey I am currently trying to build my own powder coating oven and I bought all of the parts you put in the youtube video. The thing I can not figure out is how you connected the inkbird to get power and work in sync with the heater.
Stefanny S there is a video out there that I use to wire the ink it’d controller. Let me see if I can find the video again and drop you a link
710 Performance thank you for looking that up for me!
Awesome
Thank you 🙏
I have not found a flow chart or schematic, do you have one for the PID? I'm a bit lost on what it does. I'm guessing you could wire this up as a controller with a 20 amp contactor the control up to 4 of these heaters. I an Ag application
Sorry we do not. It may have been with the box, but we do not have it anymore.
WHAT SIZE IS THE DUCT PIECE THAT YOU USED FOR THIS? I USE A PROPANE FORCED AIR HEATER AS WELL BUT WHEN I USE A 8IN 45 DUCTING ELBOW TO THE HEATER AND PUT IT IN BACK OF THE OVEN, IT "HUMS" REALLY LOUD AND NOT MUCH HEAT IS PUT OFF. BUT IF I TAKE THE HEATER BACK AWAY FROM THE OVEN AND REMOVE THE DUCTING THE HEATER WORKS LIKE NORMAL. ANY IDEAS? IS YOUR DUCT PIECE RIVETED TO THE OUTSIDE RIM OF THE HEATER OR THE SILVER INSIDE LINER PIECE?
it's riveted to the outside rim of the heater, not the inside rim. It could be causing a lack of airflow, for thee heater to work correctly it needs the right amount of propane and air. What i think is happening with you is it is blocking or restricting air flow somehow. We're using an 8" elbow, we actually use two of them now, and we don't have any issues. What size is your heater?
@@710performance mine is a 125,000btu constant ignition reddy heater. I have a 4in vent in top of 48in wide x 55in deep x 77inin tall oven.
@@flexxin_daily5127 I don't know if the vent would be part of it, but we only have a 2 1/2" vent on the side, and we can open or close it, and we've never had to open it in 4 years. So you vent might be a bit too big, and in the wrong spot. also that heater may be a bit small for that oven. We have an oven about the same size and we're using a 425,000 BTU heater.
@@710performance well my heater is same size at the one your using in this video. Mine is just 2ft taller.
@@710performance and I'm considering closing the vent in the top and putting it in the bottom about 12in from bottom.
where can i get this mr heater
If you Google search, it will show you the best place to buy them in your area or online
Does them heater have auto spar?
Yessir
Hi does you heater have a push button ignition or mains powered sparker?
Just saw the answer in another comment
Thanks for your support though, let us know if you have any other questions.
does the jet heater blower run the entire time you use the machine , even when the flame is out?
No it does not, the PID control controls when it turns on and off
@@710performance so the controller controls 110v as well as 12v
@@tigman47 no the PID is a 12v output
@@710performance so how does it turn the FAN off on the jet burner??
@@tigman47 i believe he unplugs it
Can you message me please got some questions as don't fully understand
What does the solenoid actually do does it shut off the gas ?
Does the ignition need wiring in aswell
Is a great video just not the clearest
The heater should already have an auto light ignition. Yes the solenoid shuts off the flow of gas to the heater, the PID controller controls the solenoid and opens it when it needs heat (to turn on the flow of gas, the auto light will then light it) when the oven is to set temp, the PID controller shuts the solenoid which closes the valve and shuts off the flow of gas. The way we have it set up, it actually completely shuts off the heater, it doesn't just close the solenoid.
What do you use for a pressure regulator and what did you adjust to get a hotter flame?
When we bought the heater it came with a hose and pressure regulator. We also use the "regulator" to adjust the flame that is built into the heater.
Bro whats the name for the piece that your heater got on the tip that connect to the oven wall
Heat ducting at Lowe’s or Home Depot
How much would you charge me to build this? I'll send the money for the heater + accessories
There have been many people who have built these systems just from referring to our video. I'm sure you can do it as well. We do not currently have the time to do it. Thank you for asking though
Do you know the model# for the auto ignite heater?
All current Mr. heater models have auto light
what size oven would that heat up im trying to heat up a 6x8x10ft oven
6x6x6
Can I ship mine out to you so you can convert mine? I have the same heater. I want to put a thermostat on the wall and use this heater to heat my shop. Any ideas?
This is something I had though of as well. You could do it yourself much cheaper than sending it out here and the cost of shipping to go back, especially with the big heater.
Hello, Nice project! I have bought my self a burner. But i don't understand the part of the ignition. Hoe does the ignition work? Because on my burner i have to do it manualy.
You’ll have to replace the manual button for an electric solenoid. We have a few videos on it.
@@710performance Hello thanks for your quick reply! I have looked your video for a couple of times :-). Oke you are using a manual egnition burner. I also have a manual egnition burner without gasregulator. You replace it with the solenoid. But the part I don't understand is what makes the spark ignite know. The solinoid only letting the gas through, right?
I think I know whats the problem. My manual button is not attached to the brass fitting but it is a separate ignitor.
@@nanneborn4523 You need an auto light system.
@@710performanceThanks a lot! I going to order one. Keep up the Nice video's.
Hey guys, so i purchased a Mr. Heater 170,000 BTU heater, it came with a solenoid valve already and when connected and first turned on it takes about 5 seconds to ignite (has a built in control model). so i didn't change the solenoid valve but just connected as is (PID controller was setup to just act as a thermostat , off at set temp and on after falling below set temp) my problem is when connected to a 25lb gas cylinder is that after a couple minutes running (240-260 degrees) then it stops heating and i realize that it is trying to restart (igniter running) but no gas... could it be that the cylinder is too small or a faulty solenoid gas valve (i live in jamaica so not cold at all)
Sounds like you have too small of a propane tank. Also what size is you oven?
@@710performance 4X5X7
@@710performance diconnected the heater internal thermocouple which works (it was configured to shut off gas at 250 degrees as a failsafe)
@@robinrickhi4934 Awesome! Glad you got it worked out!
@@robinrickhi4934 Let us know how well that size heater works with that size oven. We've had people ask how big of an oven they can build with that size heater, we recommend no larger than 5'x5'x5' but we don't know everything =)
Damn my knees hurt
😂😂😂
it was always my understanding that you definitely did NOT want to use any sort of open flame heat source, due the extreme volatility of the aerized powder...
That’s not the case
I no u might be bizzy how much would you charge me to do me a electric box so I can put it on my oven can u tex me it will be a big help thanks 🙏 I hope u get back to my thanks
Can I email us, info@710performance.com
Stupid question... Why didn't you just buy a 110v instead of that 12v valve???
No particular reason.
Oder 1 set boss
💪💪💪💪
U can buy a separate unit made for like heat mats and such , to control the temp . About $25-30 . No need for all this.
In an oven?