I too own a BYD Atto 3 and after 2 years and nearly 50K kms, we still have the same range and battery percentage that we had from new. I've only charged on a DC charger twice, once to see if the DC charging worked and the second time was when we went on a bit of a country drive and needed a top up. Otherwise we AC charge at home at 7kW/Hr on an EV tariff of 8c/kW/Hr 09:00-15:00. We rarely use grid power as we have a large solar array on the roof so the running costs are absolutely negligible. Very happy with the BYD. My wife commandeered the BYD nearly two years ago and I'm just about to replace my written off Tesla MY with the new Xpeng G6 which has just been launched here in Australia. I think it will be well received. I can't wait. Buying an EV was the best thing I ever did, The Fudders can go and lose themselves as they know absolutely nothing about the modern world and the huge change that we're going through. Look at VW now and what a mess they're in all because they failed to grasp the future. Out of interest, Xpeng is part owned by VW - I think 5-10%. Thank you for the informative video.
My situation is very similar. We only slow charge overnight (6KW rate) except on trips when we occasionally do a fast charge. When we do fast charge we always disconnect at 80%. Took delivery of the Atto3 22 months ago. We regularly do a detailed test of capacity. Over the first fifteen months the battery capacity slowly increased by about 5%. It has now plateaued. The best range speed of the Atto is about 80km/hr. At a steady 80kmh it will do about 455km. At 95kmh that drops to around 400km. Around town in stop start traffic expect about 370km.
2 місяці тому+6
I own a BYD Dolphin and after 1 year and 30,000 km, everything looks ok.
Try using Car Scanner, and an OBD device, it will tell you exactly how many KWh you have when the battery is at 100% SOC (or at any other level of charge). My Kia Soul EV (Mk 1), has lost 0.9KWh over 8 years; but then, it only had 27KWh to start with; that equates to about 4 miles of range.
A great video, we have just bought an atto 3 as a second car , but looking at your video I had to do a double take as it appeared that you were paying 79p per kwh and here in France I moan at paying 29c 😮. Why is it so expensive or did I read that wrong ?
Hey. Thanks for sharing. If you allow me saying, try to get an ODB2 scanner since it will allow you to correctly track the SOC before start charging and than again at the end of the process. The value showed at the charging station is not the exact amount of KWs that the car has indeed charged, since there are few losses between the charger and the car's inner converter. Also part of the energy, while charging is used as you said by the BMS to cool down battery. Thanks again!
the 58kwh that you are seeing on the charger its the delivered energy and theres alway energy loss when charging so that doesn't meen its delivered to the battery
Fast charge time wise seems pretty good till you reach about 50 ish percent. Any how the cost 😢 of you charging is High cost 😢😢. Say 53 khw x 79p per kilowatt, did you have pay 40 plus quid ? To get to 100% for about 235 just charged ev miles . Thats about 17/18 p a mile 😢😢😢😢😢😢. Public chargings a no no for me unless i am desperate. Plug in overnight , much more economical 😂😂 . I wouldnt have been tempted to buy a ev if i had too public charge only.
What you were initially seeing was 0.661kwh which was the initial amount of energy that the charger had put into your battery already after a few seconds, not what's in your battery on your remaining SOC.
79p per kwh!! Ouch. Public DC fast chargers in Thailand average about 23 US cents per kwh. My off peak Time Of Use meter at home is 7 US cents per kwh.
Also, although charging to 100% does help an LFP battery know exactly what % it's at and is good therefore to do occasionally it's still not the best thing to be doing to the battery each time. Look up engineering explained how to make LFP batteries last as well as possible.
There is. Manufacturers will tell you that the battery size is 80kwh of which only 77kwh are usable. And that is to account for degradation and potentially running to 0% (which you should never ever do).
What I do to measure battery degradation is to charge to full, the use the car until the % is under 10% typically while driving over a week or so. I then look at my trip meter for all the journeys, use the distance and then divide by the efficiency for each journey to get the kWhs used. Add them up and divide by the % of the battery used. Then I compare Vs the nominal size of the battery pack. Your way of doing it while charging doesn't account for charging losses which might be 5-10% on DC.
@@sterobloc6645 tec minded view the electified side of vehicle with ease but a more mature years wise manual work person not of further education like myself , do find the equation of that side a little challenging.
😂 if you live in hotter country than Britain and get sweaty backside , I agree. Here in UK the heated seat component is a must for at least 6 months .Hate to have to do the journey in winter with thick coat and scarf .
@@ruspashov2514 most people live in apartments and can't charge at home. also the national average price (as of July 2024) per kWh of electricity is £0.22.
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I too own a BYD Atto 3 and after 2 years and nearly 50K kms, we still have the same range and battery percentage that we had from new. I've only charged on a DC charger twice, once to see if the DC charging worked and the second time was when we went on a bit of a country drive and needed a top up. Otherwise we AC charge at home at 7kW/Hr on an EV tariff of 8c/kW/Hr 09:00-15:00. We rarely use grid power as we have a large solar array on the roof so the running costs are absolutely negligible. Very happy with the BYD. My wife commandeered the BYD nearly two years ago and I'm just about to replace my written off Tesla MY with the new Xpeng G6 which has just been launched here in Australia. I think it will be well received. I can't wait. Buying an EV was the best thing I ever did, The Fudders can go and lose themselves as they know absolutely nothing about the modern world and the huge change that we're going through. Look at VW now and what a mess they're in all because they failed to grasp the future. Out of interest, Xpeng is part owned by VW - I think 5-10%. Thank you for the informative video.
Most fudders don't even drive. Or they are only in the market for old used cars
My situation is very similar. We only slow charge overnight (6KW rate) except on trips when we occasionally do a fast charge. When we do fast charge we always disconnect at 80%.
Took delivery of the Atto3 22 months ago. We regularly do a detailed test of capacity. Over the first fifteen months the battery capacity slowly increased by about 5%. It has now plateaued. The best range speed of the Atto is about 80km/hr. At a steady 80kmh it will do about 455km. At 95kmh that drops to around 400km. Around town in stop start traffic expect about 370km.
I own a BYD Dolphin and after 1 year and 30,000 km, everything looks ok.
Try using Car Scanner, and an OBD device, it will tell you exactly how many KWh you have when the battery is at 100% SOC (or at any other level of charge).
My Kia Soul EV (Mk 1), has lost 0.9KWh over 8 years; but then, it only had 27KWh to start with; that equates to about 4 miles of range.
A great video, we have just bought an atto 3 as a second car , but looking at your video I had to do a double take as it appeared that you were paying 79p per kwh and here in France I moan at paying 29c 😮.
Why is it so expensive or did I read that wrong ?
Hey. Thanks for sharing. If you allow me saying, try to get an ODB2 scanner since it will allow you to correctly track the SOC before start charging and than again at the end of the process. The value showed at the charging station is not the exact amount of KWs that the car has indeed charged, since there are few losses between the charger and the car's inner converter. Also part of the energy, while charging is used as you said by the BMS to cool down battery. Thanks again!
The battery has also a reserve as not all of it is usable. They do that so the battery will not fully discharged as this hurts the battery a lot.
the 58kwh that you are seeing on the charger its the delivered energy and theres alway energy loss when charging so that doesn't meen its delivered to the battery
yes, we can see from the start of the video that the charger is/was zero (allowing the few seconds after charge started)
10 percent loss
Fast charge time wise seems pretty good till you reach about 50 ish percent.
Any how the cost 😢 of you charging is High cost 😢😢. Say 53 khw x 79p per kilowatt, did you have pay 40 plus quid ? To get to 100% for about 235 just charged ev miles . Thats about 17/18 p a mile 😢😢😢😢😢😢.
Public chargings a no no for me unless i am desperate.
Plug in overnight , much more economical 😂😂 .
I wouldnt have been tempted to buy a ev if i had too public charge only.
What you were initially seeing was 0.661kwh which was the initial amount of energy that the charger had put into your battery already after a few seconds, not what's in your battery on your remaining SOC.
79p per kWh expensive. Is yours the extended range 60.5kW model? How much can you get per full charge?
yep i know all part of rip off Britain
You started charging at 8%, that means about 4,8kwh already in battery. I don't see any real degradation here.
79p per kwh!! Ouch. Public DC fast chargers in Thailand average about 23 US cents per kwh. My off peak Time Of Use meter at home is 7 US cents per kwh.
I home charge overnight , works out about 11/12 cents in your currency
Also, although charging to 100% does help an LFP battery know exactly what % it's at and is good therefore to do occasionally it's still not the best thing to be doing to the battery each time.
Look up engineering explained how to make LFP batteries last as well as possible.
Hi Lewis, yes thats true although with the blade battery its okay according to BYD When i spoke to them.
Would there be reserve kWh in EV's battery just like how there is a fuel reserve tank in petrol cars?
There is. Manufacturers will tell you that the battery size is 80kwh of which only 77kwh are usable. And that is to account for degradation and potentially running to 0% (which you should never ever do).
Just to make you aware you have charging losses so what you see on the charger isn't what has gone in to the battery.
What I do to measure battery degradation is to charge to full, the use the car until the % is under 10% typically while driving over a week or so.
I then look at my trip meter for all the journeys, use the distance and then divide by the efficiency for each journey to get the kWhs used. Add them up and divide by the % of the battery used. Then I compare Vs the nominal size of the battery pack.
Your way of doing it while charging doesn't account for charging losses which might be 5-10% on DC.
Seems like you have to be a Rocket Scientist to own an EV!
@@sterobloc6645 tec minded view the electified side of vehicle with ease but a more mature years wise manual work person not of further education like myself , do find the equation of that side a little challenging.
front seat ventilated necessary
😂 if you live in hotter country than Britain and get sweaty backside , I agree.
Here in UK the heated seat component is a must for at least 6 months .Hate to have to do the journey in winter with thick coat and scarf .
agree
@@ellisrochlin2267 Yes , i am from nepal . this country almost 8 month hot . so necessary ventilated front seats .
@@ellisrochlin2267 Yes , i am from nepal . this country almost 8 month hot . so necessary ventilated front seats .
at 79p per kwh driving EV is more expensive than driving a diesel car
Most of the public chargers are at extortion rates unfortunately - it's good that most people can charge at home on 7p/kWh !
@@ruspashov2514 most people live in apartments and can't charge at home.
also the national average price (as of July 2024) per kWh of electricity is £0.22.
@@InternetExplorer-s9g flat dwellers that didn't do their research , silly Billy's.
@@ellisrochlin2267 they would never buy an EV if they did research