This is unbelievably easy. I got a quote for over $600 to do this. Then I said I had two and they cut me a break to do both for $900!! I already had a submersible pump, so about $50 for the hoses, new bucket, and plenty of vinegar, and I am set for many years. I am appalled by the rates and taking advantage of people who may not know and not being real with them. Thank you so much for great videos like these.
This is the best, most thorough video that I’ve seen on this procedure. Well explained and videoed each step involved. Thanks for posting this. You are saving a lot of people a lot of money.
Hello frank! My name is Michael Acocella, when i first got into the trade, you were my pre-apprentice teacher at humber college! I just wanted to thank you for your amazing work ethic and professionalism, I was able to maintain and adhere to your knowledge you gave me all those years ago! Thank you! Keep up the good work! Amazing video 🕷
Michael!...I absolutely remember you, and it's great to hear from you and that you're doing well! Thank you so much for the touching words; you have no idea how much they mean to me - and they're the reason that compels me to keep doing what I'm doing! So from the bottom of my heart, thank you so much for that! 🙏 Looking forward to hearing of your great adventures as you continue to aim for excellence in your career and in life! Never stop improving, Mike! 💪
First of all, thanks for the awesome detailed video and for taking the time to share your knowledge. After watching this, I feel confident I can perform this procedure on my girlfriends tankless water heater. Second, I have watched countless how-to videos on UA-cam over the years and your video is the first one I have ever commented on. After watching the video, and reading most of your replies to the comments, it was obviously clear that you have a heart to help others, you have a positive attitude toward difficult situations and life in general, you accept where you are at with your skill level and give confident answers when you know something, but are humble enough to admit when you don't know something, you are very kind and respectful in your comments/answers and never put anyone down, and you are blessed with the gift of encouraging others. You stood out from all the others and this is why I had to comment on this video. If this is who you are in your private life, I know your family and friends are very blessed to know you. If you are a follower of Jesus Christ, your actions show much fruit of the Spirit. If you are not a follower of Jesus Christ, I pray you would have an open heart to seek Him. 🙏 Either way, I pray many blessings to you. Thanks again for the video and comments!!
WOW! All I can say is THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, for what is undoubtedly one of the kindest, most generous comments I've ever received! ♥ 🙏 (I kid you not!) A the end of the day, bettering and lifting others in whatever way possible is what really matters (plumbing or otherwise), and it's reception such as yours which is really what drives me to make these videos. All that matters is that you find them useful, and I can't express how grateful I am to know that. God bless you! 🙏
You're such a good teacher, Frank, demonstrating every step of the set-up, & including little extras like the animation showing the direction of flow, and explaining what scale is. I appreciated your multiple camera angles that let us see your hands & tools on every valve & filter. Also helpful and not in any other vid I watched today: the info about pipe vs hose threads, and the possible need to get a male hose adapter for the pump. One small suggestion: I wished you had checked and cleaned the water heater's filter screen *before* you flushed, as well as after. Also, you could show us how to clean the air intake filter too.
Wow! Thanks so much! 🙏 Your feedback is among the most thoughtful and constructive I've ever received; humbly appreciated, and I will certainly take your suggestions to heart! 😊
@@noneofurbizness1271 With some thorough foresight, planning, and sheer determination, there's no doubt you can pull it off! 👊 Let me know how it goes!
This video provided me with the information and confidence to service my own tankless (Rheem brand) unit. I watched another video first and the tankless unit in that video had service valves with separate contols for the cold water inlet/ hot water outlet and the service hose connection. I started to worry I wouldn't be able to self-service my unit and would need to contact a plumber. Luckily I came across this video and you have the exact valves that I have (which I now know as a 3-way valve), down to the yellow tags. Armed with the proper instructions on how to use this 3-way service valve I plan to descale my unit this week. Thanks for the knowledge I hope I can pay it forward. 👏🏿👏🏿
There's no shortage of information these days, but I think that's a good thing, because each person has their own spin or perspective. Besides, many things are "hard" until you actually understand it and do it the first few times.
Well, I for one am thankful for this particular video. I never did the procedure before and wanted to be sure I was doing it correctly. It is nice to read instructions but it is also very helpful to see it all layed out in a well explained video. Sometimes people don’t know what parts the instructions are referring to so a video is helpful. I saw some other videos where people explained things but didn’t she everything.
Amazing, that we are charged $250-$400 for this service. Last year the plumber was here less than hour. Crazy. Thanks, might just give it a try myself.
At least your plumber knew what the issue was and fixed it. Plumbers in my areas either didn't know what descaling was or were not going to tell me. Has to install new unit + cost of plumber. He didn't suggest installing a descale kit.
Yeah, unfortunately this is what many plumbers & apprentices (and other contractors, for that matter) just don't get. I tell my students all the time: "Your reputation follows you!". You may be able to get away with the quick buck or shortcut once or perhaps a few times...but eventually word catches up that you're either a hack or or outright unethically shady. I personally wouldn't be able to sleep at night, if I actively knew I was taking my customers for a ride.
Oh my goodness...thank you for my very first Super Thanks EVER!!! 🙏 ☺️ I am truly humbled, and I certainly hope that my content was able to help you resolve whatever resolution you were seeking. Thank you once again most sincerely!
this was posted 1 year ago, and I just watched it now. Very informative, I did it before but it was a couple of years ago. Glad I am doing it now, Guess I need to make this as my normal routine.
Good question! Unfortunately, not likely or very much at all. First, the type of filtration depends on what type of filter you're referring to. Most inline filters are either sediment filters which remove larger particles such as sand, some iron, and silt. Others are carbon activated which help remove some particles, taste and odour. The problem with hard water is that the embedded calcium and magnesium is that the minerals are so tiny, most will pass right through the aforementioned filters. Water softeners contain a bedding made of little plastic balls (polystyrene resin), which attracts the calcium and magnesium ions and "catch" them as the water passes through the bedding. Then every week or so, the softener is programmed to conduct a regeneration cycle to remove the trapped calcium and magnesium in exchange for sodium ions. It's a bit of a process. There might be a dedicated, simple pass-through filter that may remove calcium and magnesium, but I personally don't know of any (other than installing a full-blown water softener and brine tank). Hope this helps!
Great video. Thanks for the education. Why treat the problem if you can prevent the problem? Why not just use a water softener to filter out the hardness?
Thank you 🙏 and great question! Although the installation of a water softener is certainly a game-changer for all your plumbing fixtures, not all water supply sources are always hard enough to justify the installation of a water softener to treat the incoming water. Also, the installation of a water softener may not be beneficial to those in the household who are diagnosed with hypertension (high blood pressure). A. Water softer works by replacing calcium and magnesium (and some iron) with sodium, which gets directly dissolved into the treated water, which may adversely affecting those with high blood pressure. Finally, some people simply don't like the feeling of washing or bathing with soft water (I'm one of them!). Although some see it as a benefit, the treated water's absence of abrasive minerals makes washing with it feel "silky smooth" on the skin. I personally liken it to the feeling of never being able to rinse the soap off, no matter how much you scrub...it just feels slimy to me! (but I'm probably in the minority). Also, I know some sticklers who still prefer to descale their tankless heater anyway, despite the existence of a softener - for example, in case their softener was not working properly or efficiently. Thanks for your question and happy holidays! 🥂
Unless I missed something, the valves were open for the cold water feed when you took the bleeder caps off . Did you shut another valve off before the unit? Thanks
No, the handles were parallel to the piping, meaning that the were OPEN to the incoming water supply and the house fixtures, but CLOSED to the service ports. Therefore, I was able to remove the caps and attach the hoses without any supply water coming through. I then turned the cold handle a quarter turn, which isolated the unit from the incoming water supply, and opened flow through the service port. I then did the same for the hot side, which isolated the rest of the house from the unit, but opened flow-through out to the service port - thus creating a closed loop. While you can certainly shut off the main water supply (and might actually be a good idea if you're new to the procedure), these service valves make it unnecessary to do so.
Water softening is an interesting subject, which works by exchanging calcium/magnesium ions for sodium ions, which removes hardness from the water...but the Trojan UV System is a completely different animal; a UV system does not soften or filter the water in any way. Rather, it deactivates the DNA of any parasites, bacteria, or viruses which may be present in the water by exposing them to UV light before it is distributed through the system...thereby preventing them from multiplying. Is there anything else specific you'd like that you know or learn about?
For water softeners, I've often sourced the Viqua brand for my customers...although there are tons to choose from. With respect to installation: Most softeners are actually designed for whole home installation. Generally, a softener is a relatively simple installation. It's generally a matter of cutting into the water distribution line at the home's water service (before it is delivered to any other fixture in the home, but after the meter), and routing the line into the inlet of the softener. The outlet then reconnects back into the other side of the distribution line you cut into. There's usually no need to install a bypass since most softeners have one built into the head in the event it must be serviced or installed. A couple of things to keep in mind: -You will need a nearby drain to route the softener's discharge during the regeneration cycle -You will need a simple household power outlet (120V in North America) to power the unit (simple plug-in adapter; no hardwiring of the unit necessary) -It's extra work, but if possible and accessible, you may want to run separate water supply lines to your outdoor hose bibs, which feed BEFORE the softener. This will prevent soft water from being wasted outdoors (exception: you may want outdoor soft water for washing your vehicle, which is easier on the paint finish) -Finally, try to have your water analyzed to determine the hardness level so that you can properly program the softener so that it softens properly, and uses the right amount of salt. Hope this helps! (Hmmm, this topic might make a good video. 🤔)
Sorry, I don't yet. The good news is that the actual installation of a softener is not an overly-complicated process. All softeners typically have a water IN and and OUT...and they usually have their own built-in bypass valves. So generally, the untreated Cold water supply connects to the IN, and the softened water connects the household piping (where you want the soft water to go) to the OUT. A few things: You probably not want your softened water to run outside to your outdoor hose Bibs (unless you want to use it for washing your vehicles). Therefore, you may want to run a dedicated branch line from the untreated main water supply BEFORE it enters the softener, to every outdoor hose bib you requiring untreated water. This way you'll still get the soft water indoors, but nourishing hard water for your plants & garden outdoors. You'll also need to run the softener's drain outlet either to a nearby drain or into a nearby laundry sink. I've often used hard piping because it looks nice and for longer runs, but you can usually get away with flexible tubing, which often comes with the softener if you're draining nearby. Also, a mistake a lot of installers make is that they install the softener and keep it at its default settings without properly checking the exisitng hardness of water supply. This may result in either too much salt usage, or not enough softening. I recommend you take a sample of your untreated water either to a local service which tests hardness, or buy a kit to test it yourself so that you can set the softener to the appropriate hardness settings (known as Grains Per Gallon (GPG) or Parts Per Million (PPM)). Do also take a look at the manufacturer's instructions, which will provide you with ample information to ensure a proper installation. Hope this helps!
Unfortunately I have not flushed/descaled our Rinnai since purchasing home in 5+ years ago. Is it too late? I have heard since it's been so long its best not to descale at this point. Or, should I still do the the descaling?
Hmm...If I were to guess, I'd presume that NOT descaling would cause more harm than good,and doing so would still be a "better late than never" scenario. The worst I'd image is that you won't remove all the built-up scaling on the first attempt. But if you're in doubt, I suggest you call up or email Rinnai's tech support, which should be able to confirm the best route for servicing your heater to prolong its current life.
Life Hack, turn the vinegar bottle sideways when pouring. Pours easier and faster without surging/sloshing. Applicable on windshield wiper fluid and any other rectangular liquid container.
Great video. I purchased a pond pump at my local box store. After about 3 years the rubber o-rings totally deteriorated and the metal part inside the pump completely started to corrode from the vinegar, pumping debris inside my tankless heater. Is there a pump you recommend that will withstand the corrosiveness of 5%vinegar. Thank you.
Thanks! Yeah, once had an issue with a pump corroding in the past as well, as a result of the vinegar. What I've since done is thoroughly rinse and flush the pump with clean, fresh water. This means actually running new water through the pump ad well. Be sure to also rinse the hose connections, which will equally corrode. In terms of pump type, I think any standard submersible sump pump will suffice - such as the one I show in the video, which was purchased off Amazon for about $100. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
How big is your water heater? Mine holds 3 gallons but the manual says to use 4 gallons of cleaning solution. You only used 1 so is 4 way too much? The manual also says to use "cleaning solution diluted with water". Is white vinegar ok to use with this?
Hi there. I'm not sure how much that Bosch water heater shown in the video holds, but it's a lot less than three litres. That said, the amount you use really doesn't matter as long as you put in a volume that's AT LEAST equal to or greater than the volume capacity of your unit, because putting any less will prevent the liquid from circulating through the unit. Which is likely why your three-gallon heater requires four litres by the manufacturer. Don't worry about having TOO MUCH volume, because any excess will distribute into the bucket; it won't harm the unit. The most important thing is that you follow your manufacturer's instructions. I'm not sure what they mean by "cleaning solution", but I'm willing to bet that vinegar would be a lot safer (and healthier) than the likes of CLR or other scale removers. If you're in doubt, I suggest you call the manufacturer directly to ensure that vinegar would be safe for your unit. And also be sure circulate the solution with the heater UNPLUGGED. I once tried to descale an electric tea kettle by filling it with vinegar and boiling it, and it's an understatement to say that things didn't go so well (especially for the tea kettle, may it rest in peace!) 😂
What about putting like a sock or something attached to the hot water hose so it can catch sediment? Not saying its gonna catch everything, but wouldn't it be better to not run the sediment back thru if yoy can help it?
Not sure how that'll work, but if it does release sediment, then it was small enough to get through the system and should be able to flush right through. Also, if there's any sediment which consists of scale, then the chemical should do a good job at breaking it down to smaller particles. If recycling sediment is a concern, one thing you could do is raise the bottom of the pump a few inches by placing it on some blocks so that any released sediment has a chance to fall to the bottom before getting sucked up again. We often do this with sump pits to avoid the inlet from becoming blocked from a buildup of heavy sediment, debris, or even mud. But give your sock idea a shot; I can't see it hurting if that's your concern...or perhaps you want to try something more permeable and thinner, like intercepting the outlet by fastening panty hose or cheese cloth with an elastic band to the hose end.
No, I don't think it'll make much of a difference. The important thing is that you get the vinegar circulating efficiently, even if it moves through the unit a little more slowly.
I can verify that 1/4 HP is really good...I have the exact pump they use in this video and it's really good. Used it a couple of times for this very situation.
Hello! Thank you for your video. I just did my first descaling on my own and had a quick question. I used a gallon of water and a descaling powder. After about 30 minutes, nearly my entire bucket was filled with water. Did I do something wrong? Where is all of this extra water coming from? Thank you!
Hmmm...little tricky to assess without seeing it. However, I'm wondering whether all the residual water in the tank got drained before you started the process (possibly due to airlock). One possible way to eliminate airlock is to shut down/isolate only the Cold side of the tank, and with the hot side valve kept open, go by a nearby faucet (preferably upstairs from the water heater. If possible) and open the hot. This would allow air to enter the hot piping, which may release any trapped water being held back by a vacuum. Be sure to have your hoses attached to the service valves with the other ends sitting in a bucket or drain to avoid a big puddle if/when the trapped water is released. Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool Thank you. I did think about this, but nearly 4 gallons seemed like a lot to be stored in the unit. I am really perplexed. Thanks again!
Yeah, four gallons is certainly a bit much. It sounds like your source is coming from elsewhere. Either your cold water is passing, or perhaps you left the hot side open, thereby passing residual water from your home's hot water lines. Please do feel free to let me know if if you find the source of water. I lose sleep over these mysteries!
Alao, you never mention to turn the valves right where the service hoses connect. Your system doesnt have thise but many do. Dont they need to be activated too? My manual mentions to do this.
Hi there. Hmmm....I'm not certain which valves you're referring to, other than the three-way service valves demonstrated in the video. If your manual specifies particular instructions, then I'd reason that it would be prudent to stick with their recommendations.
@@PlumbingsCool thanks for your replies! in this video the plumber shows a setup somewhat like mine. ua-cam.com/video/M3WzxW0hv9s/v-deo.html The hot and cold water lines each have 2 valves on them. One is a shutoff and the other is a service valve. Sorry if i'm using the wrong terms. I wish my setup was like yours with only 1 lever. Unfortunately whoever installed mine put the valves in upside down so I can't isolate the service valve since the cut off is AFTER it! So when i open my service valve, water runs like a faucet.
Ah, I think I see your dilemma! Yes, unfortunately it does sound the installer messed up your configuration. I see no other way to service your system, other than to have the order of those valves switched. To be clear, if you have two sets of valves on yours water lines connecting to your water heater (two on hot and two on cold), then the order should be, in the order of flow: COLD (into your heater): Isolation Valve >> Service Valve >> Water Heater HOT (coming out of your heater): Water Heater >> Service Valve >> Isolation Valve Hope you can sort it out with minimal pain. If you do, you may want to consider having them install the three way service valves like you see in the video...although either method is fine.
I suppose it would depend on how well that scale filter is at removing calcium & magnesium. Sometimes even water softeners fail over time, or are not programmed to the proper settings. Your best bet is to take a sample of your hot water coming out of a faucet and have it tested for hardness. If you learn that the water is actually soft (devoid of calcium and magnesium), then one could argue that there'd be no longer reason to descale. If you do decide to test, please feel free to let me know, as I'm curious to know how well those filters actually work.
@@PlumbingsCool Sure thing. I have an electric echosmart 24kw. I purchase it in 2014. Ahead of the heater I have an expansion tank and before the expansion I have the filter. I change the filter every 6 months. I am now about to change all 3 heating elements and the flow sensor while I have it out. I also just change the expansion tank for the first time. I will still flush my system as you did while I have it open. I was just wondering if it would be necessary if a filter was in place. I dont have the service ports but can remove the expansion tank and flush from the top... I think!
Does this typically solve an E4 error code? Ours keeps going on and off. Last year it happened and I took my blower to the exhaust vents outside and that seemed to do the trick but lately it doesn’t seem to be that easy.
I'm not sure which model you have, but if it's the same one depicted in the video (Bosch Geotherm 1050ES), then I would presume that your issue will NOT be resolved with a descaling. Here's exactly what the manual says for an E4 error code: CAUSE: Backflow temperature sensor over 309°F. The appliance will close the burner and lock (non-volatile). SOLUTION: 1. Check inlet/outlet vent pipes. 2. Check if secondary fan connections are disconnected. 3. Check if venting specifications are met. Long vent lengths, venting with more than three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure. See chapter 4.3, page 15. 4. Call Bosch Water Heating for further instructions.
It doesn't need to be anything significantly large or even powerful. All you're looking for is circulation though the system. I think the one I used in the video is somewhere around 1/10th horsepower? Even less than that if you like. Whichever pump you use, you'll need to reduce the inlet and outlet to 3/4" hose bib thread to get the hoses on.
I'm all ready to start descaling for the first time. Can the used vinegar be used for anything else after that? Seems like a waste to throw it all out.
I personally wouldn't recommend reusing the vinegar...most definitely not for any edible applications. Especially compared traditional descaling solutions (such as CLR), vinegar is quite inexpensive. Further, I'm not sure whether the vinegar will lose its effectiveness after it's been exposed to systems containing high amounts of scale. Given how sporadically tankless heaters require descaling, I'd be much more comfortable spending an extra two-to-three dollars per year knowing that I'd be subjecting my system to a fresh new batch of unused vinegar.
I was quoted $3151 yesterday to replace my water heater...decided to go tankless & have a friend who already installs tankless in remodels that is doing the install. It's criminal to uncharge so much on these simple services 😮
Although it's difficult for me to assess your situation as to why the quote may have been so high, the price does sound a little steep for a traditional water tank. Hope you enjoy the tankless heater!
Price depends on the size and type of the water heater. The electric ones are less expensive than gas-fired. If the latter, 50 gallon natural gas have skyrocketed here in Canada...and my wholesale price is no less than CN$1,600, excluding markup, labour, and other materials.
@PlumbingsCool the 50 gal water tanks run under $700 & my garage is full of pipe & all the pieces & accessories necessary, my ex left a garage full of heat & air, plumbing & electrical supplies. My son replaced the water pipe from the main to the house for about $140 in parts....I had an estimate for $7200 & $4800....Ridiculous & this is after the trench was dug up. He was getting ready to go out of state to work & needed the pipe laid & crimped. He went ahead & finished it himself after that nonsense estimate.
Unfortunately, that's going to be a little tricky, since, without those valves, you have no way of isolating the unit from the rest of the water supply system to keep the vinegar/descaler circulating only within the heater. I'm sorry to say, but the harsh truth is that if you don't have service valves, the only way to properly descale your system is to have a set of service valves installed first. The most cost effective solution might be to hire a licensed plumber to install the valves AND subsequently descale the system during the same visit to save yourself an extra service call charge. Hope this helps.
So i put the small water filter back in, go to slowly open the cold valve and water sprays everywhere out from the tiny water filter! I’ve tried re-seating it to make sure it’s sealed and same thing. Any ideas on what’s going on here? EDIT: was not pushing in cap far enough all good now
It's a little tricky to assess without being on site, but I would encourage you to check that: -The filter is fully pushed into the heater (which you suggested you've done. -The O-ring is not split, damaged or worn (you can try to match and replace the O-ring, although it must be a PRECISE replacement!!!) -The plastic filter housing is not cracked or damaged -There is no dirt or debris surrounding the O-ring or seating area within the unit. The slightest debris will cause a leak. Also putting your finger inside the unit and feeling for any cracks or debris. Finally, run a small amount of Plumber's grease / silicone grease around the O-ring to ensure that it slips in properly, and to help it seal Aside from the above suggestions, I unfortunately can't provide much more help without assessing it myself. But if I were to wager, my money would be on it being an O-ring issue. Please do feel free to share if you resolved your issue. Best of luck!!
AWESOME! Helping and educating is what it's ALL about! I'll always be around if anyone needs me...say, maybe even start pumping out some more videos again soon 🤔 (really getting that itch!)
Hmmm...that's a tricky one to troubleshoot without being there. A few things do come to mind, though: -Make sure that the pump outlet is indeed ejecting the solution by unscrewing the hose from the heater's cold water inlet and redirecting it into the bucket. If liquid is coming out when you turn on the pump, then the issue is probably NOT the pump. In that case, be sure that the two service valves are indeed open to allow full flow from the cold inlet and the hot outlet. If the pump's outlet is NOT putting out water, then make sure that you have enough liquid in the bucket so that it is well above the intake level underneath it. If the liquid level drops below the pump's intake, then it will NOT be able to suck in the liquid and deliver it to the water heater. Also check to ensure that the inlet and outlet are not reversed. The pump's outlet should be going to the cold, and the water heater's hot outlet should be dumping straight into the bucket. Technically, it shouldn't matter, but it will rule out the remote possibility that your heater model may have a check valve which may be stopping the water from reverse-flowing. Hope this helps!
Yeah, it can be a little tricky. Make sure that the water filter is fully pushed in, otherwise the pin won't reinsert. Also, the pin goes in at a bit of an angle, and if I recall, one leg is a little longer than the other. Make sure that you have ample light beneath the unit to ensure that you can clearly see the holes.
Oh oh...perhaps the rubber O-ring surrounding the plug is worn or split? If the O-ring it's fully inserted, not damaged and just dripping slightly, then it may help to apply some plumber's or O-ring grease around the O-ring. It's a bit of a hail Mary, but it might be worth a shot until you can source a replacement plug or an exact-fitting O-ring. Good luck! 🤞
@@PlumbingsCool thanks man for reply o ring is aboustely fine no damage, I see when I try to fit it leaves small gap and little outside but when I push the black one hard the u pin never goes it at all
I have restricted flow causing lukewarm water flow. I checked the inlet filter and it was quite clean so I did the vinegar procedure without success. Is there anything stronger that I can use? The flow starts out ok but then is slows to a trickle. I tried reversing the hoses but get the same results.
Hmmm...I'm not too sure whether your issue is scaling in this case, and perhaps something else mechanical altogether. Although I can't even begin to troubleshoot your situation remotely, you did mention a few things which raise some red flags. Notably, your water is lukewarm: Even if you had calcium buildup, your water is coming out so slowly that it should've come out hot. Also, I. Think you'd need quite a bit of calcium buildup to cause the restricted flow you're referring to. If you're still convinced that your issue is the result of scaling, you might be able to try a dedicated descaler such as CLR...although I'd be very careful to check with the manufacturer's literature first. Also be sure to flush it thoroughly with clean water. You definitely don't want to be ingesting that stuff. In my experience though, simple white vinegar does an AMAZING job at removing scale. Sorry I couldn't be of more help!
@@PlumbingsCool Thank for your response, I appreciate your help as well. Just to clarify, the flow restriction is during the flushing process with vinegar. It starts out pretty good then dwindles down to a trickle. Here’s the weird part, I have good water flow/pressure throughout the house during normal operation. The water starts out hot for a VERY short period before it gets lukewarm and stays that way.
That's strange indeed. I'm wondering whether you can call the manufacturer of your tankless heater. Ask for tech support, specifying your model number. More often than not, they can help you out because they know their own products so well. Just a thought.
@@PlumbingsCool that’s my next step. Being an automotive mechanic I’m pretty savvy at figuring things out and fixing them so I got myself to this point without favorable results. I’ll reach out to the manufacturer as I’ve hit a wall on this one. Thank you and I’ll report back when I get it resolved so you can add to your diagnostic library.
I'd caution against it, strictly due to a bad experience I had with an electric tea kettle several years ago when I was still working in the office. Our area had extremely hard water and someone had brought in a brand new tea kettle, of which the element completely caked up with scale in about two weeks. I had the genius idea to run the tea kettle while filled with pure white vinegar, aligning with your logic, that it would descale more efficiently. Well, descale it did!...ad well as burn right through the element!...not to mention engulf the entire office air with evaporated vinegar, causing my teary-eyed colleagues to rush out for gasps fresh air! Moral of the story: Check with the manufacturer before doing so! 😁
Do you mean, frozen as in SEIZED? If so, I'm afraid there's little you can do, short of carefully adding some leverage to the valve handle by trying to turn it with the use of pliers if you haven't yet tried. Unfortunately, you may need to shut down your main water supply, drain the building, and replace the entire valve. (long-term failure is sadly one of the detriments of plumbing; eventually, water has its way with what it touches - some things a little sooner than others!) By the way: For future consideration, one way to minimize seizing is to go around your house every several months or so, and open & close any infrequently-used valves. This will help minimize or remove scale buildup around the inner surfaces, which is the cause of seizure.
I'm familiar with vinegar, only recently learned of using citric acid from a viewer, and know nothing about hydrochloric acid for descaling - although applying the latter sounds quite extreme on many levels, as hydrochloric acid is some pretty potent stuff!
Well perhaps one should think in descale your hot water pipes .... the same way. since is hot water!!! Also Warming you Vinegar increase the eficiency of your cleaning... . Great instructional video . love it. cheers mate
How would one descale hot water pipes? How many feet of hot water pipes in the house? How do you pump it in? You'll need hundreds of gallons of vinegar since you can form a loop to recycle the vinegar. In theory sure but it's assinine to think this can be done.
I've heard that if you use Vinegar you must descale longer than if using those weird chemicals. One plumber claimed 4-5 hours! Another says 1 Hour. You say 30 minutes.....does anyone really know the appropriate time???
I suggest checking with the manufacturer, although in my experience straight white vinegar is extremely efficient at removing scale on short time. Circulating for one hour usually suffices for me. I've even soaked heavily scaled fixtures such as hand showers in vinegar for a few minutes, which effortlessly restored the surface to like-new condition.
![How to descale a Tankless water heater. Chromex Tankless water heater descaler kit [557]](/img/n.gif)
This is unbelievably easy. I got a quote for over $600 to do this. Then I said I had two and they cut me a break to do both for $900!! I already had a submersible pump, so about $50 for the hoses, new bucket, and plenty of vinegar, and I am set for many years. I am appalled by the rates and taking advantage of people who may not know and not being real with them. Thank you so much for great videos like these.
Awesome! Everyone needs to make a living, but the prices you were quoted do sound quite STEEP! Hope this video helps you out; let me know how it goes!
Worked perfectly. Cleaned the system, and I have a reminder set on my calendar to do it again. Thank you so much!
OUTSTANDING! LOVE IT!!! 👏
This is the best, most thorough video that I’ve seen on this procedure. Well explained and videoed each step involved. Thanks for posting this. You are saving a lot of people a lot of money.
Thanks very much 🙏 as helping other is the name of the game! You generous comment made my Christmas! Happy holidays!
And that's how you make a good YT video. Easy to understand, good pace and nothing extraneous. Nice job.
Thank you! 🙏...more to come!
this is how instructional video should be. thx so much for the education
This is a very comprehensive, detailed, and clear instructed video for descaling, thank you very much
Thanks so much! 🙏 Glad you found it useful!
BEST VIDEO OUT THERE TO DESCALE! VERY INFORMATIVE. THANK YOU!
Thanks so much for your generous words! 🙏 Means a lot, and above all, I'm glad it helped!
Hello frank! My name is Michael Acocella, when i first got into the trade, you were my pre-apprentice teacher at humber college! I just wanted to thank you for your amazing work ethic and professionalism, I was able to maintain and adhere to your knowledge you gave me all those years ago! Thank you! Keep up the good work! Amazing video
🕷
Michael!...I absolutely remember you, and it's great to hear from you and that you're doing well! Thank you so much for the touching words; you have no idea how much they mean to me - and they're the reason that compels me to keep doing what I'm doing! So from the bottom of my heart, thank you so much for that! 🙏
Looking forward to hearing of your great adventures as you continue to aim for excellence in your career and in life!
Never stop improving, Mike! 💪
Perfect video, nothing more or less than you need to know. Thanks Man!
Thanks so much for the kind words! 🙏
First of all, thanks for the awesome detailed video and for taking the time to share your knowledge. After watching this, I feel confident I can perform this procedure on my girlfriends tankless water heater. Second, I have watched countless how-to videos on UA-cam over the years and your video is the first one I have ever commented on. After watching the video, and reading most of your replies to the comments, it was obviously clear that you have a heart to help others, you have a positive attitude toward difficult situations and life in general, you accept where you are at with your skill level and give confident answers when you know something, but are humble enough to admit when you don't know something, you are very kind and respectful in your comments/answers and never put anyone down, and you are blessed with the gift of encouraging others. You stood out from all the others and this is why I had to comment on this video. If this is who you are in your private life, I know your family and friends are very blessed to know you. If you are a follower of Jesus Christ, your actions show much fruit of the Spirit. If you are not a follower of Jesus Christ, I pray you would have an open heart to seek Him. 🙏 Either way, I pray many blessings to you. Thanks again for the video and comments!!
WOW! All I can say is THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, for what is undoubtedly one of the kindest, most generous comments I've ever received! ♥ 🙏 (I kid you not!)
A the end of the day, bettering and lifting others in whatever way possible is what really matters (plumbing or otherwise), and it's reception such as yours which is really what drives me to make these videos.
All that matters is that you find them useful, and I can't express how grateful I am to know that. God bless you! 🙏
Thank you for this video! We have been getting awful calcification from our hot water only. This makes perfect sense!
My pleasure...hope it resolves your calcification issue!
You're such a good teacher, Frank, demonstrating every step of the set-up, & including little extras like the animation showing the direction of flow, and explaining what scale is. I appreciated your multiple camera angles that let us see your hands & tools on every valve & filter. Also helpful and not in any other vid I watched today: the info about pipe vs hose threads, and the possible need to get a male hose adapter for the pump. One small suggestion: I wished you had checked and cleaned the water heater's filter screen *before* you flushed, as well as after. Also, you could show us how to clean the air intake filter too.
Wow! Thanks so much! 🙏 Your feedback is among the most thoughtful and constructive I've ever received; humbly appreciated, and I will certainly take your suggestions to heart! 😊
Frank, this was so interesting! It's Fun to learn from someone, Who knows what their Doing! 2 Thumbs Up! Subscribed also! Thanks again!@@PlumbingsCool
@@dporrasxtremeLS3you're too kind!...Thanks so much!! 🙏
❤❤ As a woman I definitely appreciated all the angles and explanations I actually think I can do this myself!
@@noneofurbizness1271 With some thorough foresight, planning, and sheer determination, there's no doubt you can pull it off! 👊 Let me know how it goes!
This video provided me with the information and confidence to service my own tankless (Rheem brand) unit. I watched another video first and the tankless unit in that video had service valves with separate contols for the cold water inlet/ hot water outlet and the service hose connection.
I started to worry I wouldn't be able to self-service my unit and would need to contact a plumber. Luckily I came across this video and you have the exact valves that I have (which I now know as a 3-way valve), down to the yellow tags.
Armed with the proper instructions on how to use this 3-way service valve I plan to descale my unit this week. Thanks for the knowledge I hope I can pay it forward. 👏🏿👏🏿
Thank you! Empowering you is what it's ALL about!
Cool Deadpool avatar, BTW!
Finally someone did a video
W the jomar valves where there are service valves . ❤nice job and thank you!
I'm delighted you found it useful!
It's amazing there are so many videos on descaling tankless heaters considering there really isn't that much to it.
There's no shortage of information these days, but I think that's a good thing, because each person has their own spin or perspective. Besides, many things are "hard" until you actually understand it and do it the first few times.
Well, I for one am thankful for this particular video. I never did the procedure before and wanted to be sure I was doing it correctly. It is nice to read instructions but it is also very helpful to see it all layed out in a well explained video. Sometimes people don’t know what parts the instructions are referring to so a video is helpful. I saw some other videos where people explained things but didn’t she everything.
Amazing, that we are charged $250-$400 for this service. Last year the plumber was here less than hour. Crazy. Thanks, might just give it a try myself.
Awesome! I genuinely hope it works out for you. It's feedback like yours that wants me to keep making these videos!
Good luck!
At least your plumber knew what the issue was and fixed it. Plumbers in my areas either didn't know what descaling was or were not going to tell me. Has to install new unit + cost of plumber. He didn't suggest installing a descale kit.
Yeah, unfortunately this is what many plumbers & apprentices (and other contractors, for that matter) just don't get. I tell my students all the time: "Your reputation follows you!". You may be able to get away with the quick buck or shortcut once or perhaps a few times...but eventually word catches up that you're either a hack or or outright unethically shady.
I personally wouldn't be able to sleep at night, if I actively knew I was taking my customers for a ride.
Excellent instructional video. Good explanation regarding Jomar 3 way valves.
Thank you so much for your encouraging words! 🙏 Happy holidays to you and yours!
great video and information.
Thanks so much! 🙏
Thank you so much for the Tip👍🏾
Pleasure's mine! 🙏
I am not sure if I ever going to do this but this was a great video
Thank you so much!...your generous comment means the world to me!. 🙏
Thanks for sharing..don't stop...keep up !!!
Thank you! I'll see what I can do!
Thanks!
Oh my goodness...thank you for my very first Super Thanks EVER!!! 🙏 ☺️ I am truly humbled, and I certainly hope that my content was able to help you resolve whatever resolution you were seeking. Thank you once again most sincerely!
great video! thanks!
Thank you!!
Love my Bosch. Has top or bottom service ports
Great video, thanks.
Thank you! Delighted that you you found it useful.
this was posted 1 year ago, and I just watched it now. Very informative, I did it before but it was a couple of years ago. Glad I am doing it now, Guess I need to make this as my normal routine.
Thank you! Hope you find it helpful!
To the point! That's what I'm talking about.
Thank you
Thanks so much! 🙏 That was the goal! Happy New Year! 🥂
Great video thanks so much for creating
Pleasure's mine! Thanks so much for the encouraging feedback!
Great video sir
Thank you so much! 🙏
great video and very educational, thank you!
Thanks so much!!! 🙏 Happy New Year 🥂
If I connected a filter to my water source then connected to the RV would that help reduce the hardness of the water?
Good question! Unfortunately, not likely or very much at all. First, the type of filtration depends on what type of filter you're referring to. Most inline filters are either sediment filters which remove larger particles such as sand, some iron, and silt. Others are carbon activated which help remove some particles, taste and odour.
The problem with hard water is that the embedded calcium and magnesium is that the minerals are so tiny, most will pass right through the aforementioned filters. Water softeners contain a bedding made of little plastic balls (polystyrene resin), which attracts the calcium and magnesium ions and "catch" them as the water passes through the bedding.
Then every week or so, the softener is programmed to conduct a regeneration cycle to remove the trapped calcium and magnesium in exchange for sodium ions. It's a bit of a process.
There might be a dedicated, simple pass-through filter that may remove calcium and magnesium, but I personally don't know of any (other than installing a full-blown water softener and brine tank).
Hope this helps!
Very good video🙂👍
Thank you!
Thanks
Thanks a lot!!!
Great video. Thanks for the education. Why treat the problem if you can prevent the problem? Why not just use a water softener to filter out the hardness?
Thank you 🙏 and great question! Although the installation of a water softener is certainly a game-changer for all your plumbing fixtures, not all water supply sources are always hard enough to justify the installation of a water softener to treat the incoming water. Also, the installation of a water softener may not be beneficial to those in the household who are diagnosed with hypertension (high blood pressure). A. Water softer works by replacing calcium and magnesium (and some iron) with sodium, which gets directly dissolved into the treated water, which may adversely affecting those with high blood pressure. Finally, some people simply don't like the feeling of washing or bathing with soft water (I'm one of them!). Although some see it as a benefit, the treated water's absence of abrasive minerals makes washing with it feel "silky smooth" on the skin. I personally liken it to the feeling of never being able to rinse the soap off, no matter how much you scrub...it just feels slimy to me! (but I'm probably in the minority). Also, I know some sticklers who still prefer to descale their tankless heater anyway, despite the existence of a softener - for example, in case their softener was not working properly or efficiently.
Thanks for your question and happy holidays! 🥂
Unless I missed something, the valves were open for the cold water feed when you took the bleeder caps off . Did you shut another valve off before the unit?
Thanks
No, the handles were parallel to the piping, meaning that the were OPEN to the incoming water supply and the house fixtures, but CLOSED to the service ports.
Therefore, I was able to remove the caps and attach the hoses without any supply water coming through. I then turned the cold handle a quarter turn, which isolated the unit from the incoming water supply, and opened flow through the service port. I then did the same for the hot side, which isolated the rest of the house from the unit, but opened flow-through out to the service port - thus creating a closed loop.
While you can certainly shut off the main water supply (and might actually be a good idea if you're new to the procedure), these service valves make it unnecessary to do so.
Can you make a video about water softening system, in particular the Trojan UV model mentioned in this video?
Water softening is an interesting subject, which works by exchanging calcium/magnesium ions for sodium ions, which removes hardness from the water...but the Trojan UV System is a completely different animal; a UV system does not soften or filter the water in any way. Rather, it deactivates the DNA of any parasites, bacteria, or viruses which may be present in the water by exposing them to UV light before it is distributed through the system...thereby preventing them from multiplying.
Is there anything else specific you'd like that you know or learn about?
@@PlumbingsCool Which system would you recommend for whole house water softening? Are they easy to retrofit into an older home?
For water softeners, I've often sourced the Viqua brand for my customers...although there are tons to choose from.
With respect to installation: Most softeners are actually designed for whole home installation. Generally, a softener is a relatively simple installation. It's generally a matter of cutting into the water distribution line at the home's water service (before it is delivered to any other fixture in the home, but after the meter), and routing the line into the inlet of the softener. The outlet then reconnects back into the other side of the distribution line you cut into. There's usually no need to install a bypass since most softeners have one built into the head in the event it must be serviced or installed.
A couple of things to keep in mind:
-You will need a nearby drain to route the softener's discharge during the regeneration cycle
-You will need a simple household power outlet (120V in North America) to power the unit (simple plug-in adapter; no hardwiring of the unit necessary)
-It's extra work, but if possible and accessible, you may want to run separate water supply lines to your outdoor hose bibs, which feed BEFORE the softener. This will prevent soft water from being wasted outdoors (exception: you may want outdoor soft water for washing your vehicle, which is easier on the paint finish)
-Finally, try to have your water analyzed to determine the hardness level so that you can properly program the softener so that it softens properly, and uses the right amount of salt.
Hope this helps!
(Hmmm, this topic might make a good video. 🤔)
Do u have a video on how to install a water softener/filter ?
Sorry, I don't yet. The good news is that the actual installation of a softener is not an overly-complicated process.
All softeners typically have a water IN and and OUT...and they usually have their own built-in bypass valves. So generally, the untreated Cold water supply connects to the IN, and the softened water connects the household piping (where you want the soft water to go) to the OUT.
A few things:
You probably not want your softened water to run outside to your outdoor hose Bibs (unless you want to use it for washing your vehicles). Therefore, you may want to run a dedicated branch line from the untreated main water supply BEFORE it enters the softener, to every outdoor hose bib you requiring untreated water. This way you'll still get the soft water indoors, but nourishing hard water for your plants & garden outdoors.
You'll also need to run the softener's drain outlet either to a nearby drain or into a nearby laundry sink. I've often used hard piping because it looks nice and for longer runs, but you can usually get away with flexible tubing, which often comes with the softener if you're draining nearby.
Also, a mistake a lot of installers make is that they install the softener and keep it at its default settings without properly checking the exisitng hardness of water supply. This may result in either too much salt usage, or not enough softening. I recommend you take a sample of your untreated water either to a local service which tests hardness, or buy a kit to test it yourself so that you can set the softener to the appropriate hardness settings (known as Grains Per Gallon (GPG) or Parts Per Million (PPM)).
Do also take a look at the manufacturer's instructions, which will provide you with ample information to ensure a proper installation.
Hope this helps!
Unfortunately I have not flushed/descaled our Rinnai since purchasing home in 5+ years ago. Is it too late? I have heard since it's been so long its best not to descale at this point. Or, should I still do the the descaling?
Hmm...If I were to guess, I'd presume that NOT descaling would cause more harm than good,and doing so would still be a "better late than never" scenario. The worst I'd image is that you won't remove all the built-up scaling on the first attempt.
But if you're in doubt, I suggest you call up or email Rinnai's tech support, which should be able to confirm the best route for servicing your heater to prolong its current life.
Thank you! @@PlumbingsCool
Life Hack, turn the vinegar bottle sideways when pouring. Pours easier and faster without surging/sloshing. Applicable on windshield wiper fluid and any other rectangular liquid container.
Great video. I purchased a pond pump at my local box store. After about 3 years the rubber o-rings totally deteriorated and the metal part inside the pump completely started to corrode from the vinegar, pumping debris inside my tankless heater. Is there a pump you recommend that will withstand the corrosiveness of 5%vinegar. Thank you.
Thanks! Yeah, once had an issue with a pump corroding in the past as well, as a result of the vinegar. What I've since done is thoroughly rinse and flush the pump with clean, fresh water. This means actually running new water through the pump ad well. Be sure to also rinse the hose connections, which will equally corrode. In terms of pump type, I think any standard submersible sump pump will suffice - such as the one I show in the video, which was purchased off Amazon for about $100.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
How big is your water heater? Mine holds 3 gallons but the manual says to use 4 gallons of cleaning solution. You only used 1 so is 4 way too much? The manual also says to use "cleaning solution diluted with water". Is white vinegar ok to use with this?
Hi there. I'm not sure how much that Bosch water heater shown in the video holds, but it's a lot less than three litres.
That said, the amount you use really doesn't matter as long as you put in a volume that's AT LEAST equal to or greater than the volume capacity of your unit, because putting any less will prevent the liquid from circulating through the unit. Which is likely why your three-gallon heater requires four litres by the manufacturer. Don't worry about having TOO MUCH volume, because any excess will distribute into the bucket; it won't harm the unit.
The most important thing is that you follow your manufacturer's instructions. I'm not sure what they mean by "cleaning solution", but I'm willing to bet that vinegar would be a lot safer (and healthier) than the likes of CLR or other scale removers. If you're in doubt, I suggest you call the manufacturer directly to ensure that vinegar would be safe for your unit.
And also be sure circulate the solution with the heater UNPLUGGED.
I once tried to descale an electric tea kettle by filling it with vinegar and boiling it, and it's an understatement to say that things didn't go so well (especially for the tea kettle, may it rest in peace!) 😂
What about putting like a sock or something attached to the hot water hose so it can catch sediment? Not saying its gonna catch everything, but wouldn't it be better to not run the sediment back thru if yoy can help it?
Not sure how that'll work, but if it does release sediment, then it was small enough to get through the system and should be able to flush right through. Also, if there's any sediment which consists of scale, then the chemical should do a good job at breaking it down to smaller particles.
If recycling sediment is a concern, one thing you could do is raise the bottom of the pump a few inches by placing it on some blocks so that any released sediment has a chance to fall to the bottom before getting sucked up again.
We often do this with sump pits to avoid the inlet from becoming blocked from a buildup of heavy sediment, debris, or even mud.
But give your sock idea a shot; I can't see it hurting if that's your concern...or perhaps you want to try something more permeable and thinner, like intercepting the outlet by fastening panty hose or cheese cloth with an elastic band to the hose end.
@@PlumbingsCool Nice, thanks 👍🏼
Hi does it matter if the pump is a 1/4 HP or a 1/6 HP when descaling tankless water heaters? Which one is better for descaling.
No, I don't think it'll make much of a difference. The important thing is that you get the vinegar circulating efficiently, even if it moves through the unit a little more slowly.
I can verify that 1/4 HP is really good...I have the exact pump they use in this video and it's really good. Used it a couple of times for this very situation.
Hello! Thank you for your video. I just did my first descaling on my own and had a quick question. I used a gallon of water and a descaling powder. After about 30 minutes, nearly my entire bucket was filled with water. Did I do something wrong? Where is all of this extra water coming from? Thank you!
Hmmm...little tricky to assess without seeing it. However, I'm wondering whether all the residual water in the tank got drained before you started the process (possibly due to airlock).
One possible way to eliminate airlock is to shut down/isolate only the Cold side of the tank, and with the hot side valve kept open, go by a nearby faucet (preferably upstairs from the water heater. If possible) and open the hot. This would allow air to enter the hot piping, which may release any trapped water being held back by a vacuum. Be sure to have your hoses attached to the service valves with the other ends sitting in a bucket or drain to avoid a big puddle if/when the trapped water is released.
Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool Thank you. I did think about this, but nearly 4 gallons seemed like a lot to be stored in the unit. I am really perplexed.
Thanks again!
Yeah, four gallons is certainly a bit much. It sounds like your source is coming from elsewhere. Either your cold water is passing, or perhaps you left the hot side open, thereby passing residual water from your home's hot water lines.
Please do feel free to let me know if if you find the source of water. I lose sleep over these mysteries!
Alao, you never mention to turn the valves right where the service hoses connect. Your system doesnt have thise but many do. Dont they need to be activated too? My manual mentions to do this.
Hi there. Hmmm....I'm not certain which valves you're referring to, other than the three-way service valves demonstrated in the video.
If your manual specifies particular instructions, then I'd reason that it would be prudent to stick with their recommendations.
@@PlumbingsCool thanks for your replies! in this video the plumber shows a setup somewhat like mine.
ua-cam.com/video/M3WzxW0hv9s/v-deo.html
The hot and cold water lines each have 2 valves on them. One is a shutoff and the other is a service valve. Sorry if i'm using the wrong terms. I wish my setup was like yours with only 1 lever. Unfortunately whoever installed mine put the valves in upside down so I can't isolate the service valve since the cut off is AFTER it! So when i open my service valve, water runs like a faucet.
Ah, I think I see your dilemma! Yes, unfortunately it does sound the installer messed up your configuration. I see no other way to service your system, other than to have the order of those valves switched.
To be clear, if you have two sets of valves on yours water lines connecting to your water heater (two on hot and two on cold), then the order should be, in the order of flow:
COLD (into your heater): Isolation Valve >> Service Valve >> Water Heater
HOT (coming out of your heater): Water Heater >> Service Valve >> Isolation Valve
Hope you can sort it out with minimal pain. If you do, you may want to consider having them install the three way service valves like you see in the video...although either method is fine.
If you have a scale filter before the unit (as I do) would you need to do this?
I suppose it would depend on how well that scale filter is at removing calcium & magnesium. Sometimes even water softeners fail over time, or are not programmed to the proper settings.
Your best bet is to take a sample of your hot water coming out of a faucet and have it tested for hardness. If you learn that the water is actually soft (devoid of calcium and magnesium), then one could argue that there'd be no longer reason to descale.
If you do decide to test, please feel free to let me know, as I'm curious to know how well those filters actually work.
@@PlumbingsCool Sure thing. I have an electric echosmart 24kw. I purchase it in 2014. Ahead of the heater I have an expansion tank and before the expansion I have the filter. I change the filter every 6 months.
I am now about to change all 3 heating elements and the flow sensor while I have it out. I also just change the expansion tank for the first time. I will still flush my system as you did while I have it open. I was just wondering if it would be necessary if a filter was in place. I dont have the service ports but can remove the expansion tank and flush from the top... I think!
Does this typically solve an E4 error code? Ours keeps going on and off. Last year it happened and I took my blower to the exhaust vents outside and that seemed to do the trick but lately it doesn’t seem to be that easy.
I'm not sure which model you have, but if it's the same one depicted in the video (Bosch Geotherm 1050ES), then I would presume that your issue will NOT be resolved with a descaling. Here's exactly what the manual says for an E4 error code:
CAUSE:
Backflow temperature sensor
over 309°F.
The appliance will close the
burner and lock (non-volatile).
SOLUTION:
1. Check inlet/outlet vent pipes.
2. Check if secondary fan connections are disconnected.
3. Check if venting specifications are met. Long vent lengths, venting with more than
three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure. See
chapter 4.3, page 15.
4. Call Bosch Water Heating for further instructions.
what size pump should I use?
It doesn't need to be anything significantly large or even powerful. All you're looking for is circulation though the system. I think the one I used in the video is somewhere around 1/10th horsepower? Even less than that if you like. Whichever pump you use, you'll need to reduce the inlet and outlet to 3/4" hose bib thread to get the hoses on.
I'm all ready to start descaling for the first time. Can the used vinegar be used for anything else after that? Seems like a waste to throw it all out.
I personally wouldn't recommend reusing the vinegar...most definitely not for any edible applications. Especially compared traditional descaling solutions (such as CLR), vinegar is quite inexpensive. Further, I'm not sure whether the vinegar will lose its effectiveness after it's been exposed to systems containing high amounts of scale. Given how sporadically tankless heaters require descaling, I'd be much more comfortable spending an extra two-to-three dollars per year knowing that I'd be subjecting my system to a fresh new batch of unused vinegar.
I was quoted $3151 yesterday to replace my water heater...decided to go tankless & have a friend who already installs tankless in remodels that is doing the install.
It's criminal to uncharge so much on these simple services 😮
Although it's difficult for me to assess your situation as to why the quote may have been so high, the price does sound a little steep for a traditional water tank.
Hope you enjoy the tankless heater!
@PlumbingsCool I asked why the quote was so high & the guy tried to tell me "that's a cheap price".... water tank runs about $600-$700???
Price depends on the size and type of the water heater. The electric ones are less expensive than gas-fired. If the latter, 50 gallon natural gas have skyrocketed here in Canada...and my wholesale price is no less than CN$1,600, excluding markup, labour, and other materials.
@PlumbingsCool the 50 gal water tanks run under $700 & my garage is full of pipe & all the pieces & accessories necessary, my ex left a garage full of heat & air, plumbing & electrical supplies. My son replaced the water pipe from the main to the house for about $140 in parts....I had an estimate for $7200 & $4800....Ridiculous & this is after the trench was dug up. He was getting ready to go out of state to work & needed the pipe laid & crimped. He went ahead & finished it himself after that nonsense estimate.
My tankless unit cost about $900 for tank & parts & is being installed for $250 by a friend who does several of these every month.
I have an ecosmart eco18 tankless water heater. I dont have the red and blue service caps or flush valves. How do i still descale my water heater ?
Unfortunately, that's going to be a little tricky, since, without those valves, you have no way of isolating the unit from the rest of the water supply system to keep the vinegar/descaler circulating only within the heater.
I'm sorry to say, but the harsh truth is that if you don't have service valves, the only way to properly descale your system is to have a set of service valves installed first. The most cost effective solution might be to hire a licensed plumber to install the valves AND subsequently descale the system during the same visit to save yourself an extra service call charge.
Hope this helps.
So i put the small water filter back in, go to slowly open the cold valve and water sprays everywhere out from the tiny water filter! I’ve tried re-seating it to make sure it’s sealed and same thing. Any ideas on what’s going on here?
EDIT:
was not pushing in cap far enough all good now
It's a little tricky to assess without being on site, but I would encourage you to check that:
-The filter is fully pushed into the heater (which you suggested you've done.
-The O-ring is not split, damaged or worn (you can try to match and replace the O-ring, although it must be a PRECISE replacement!!!)
-The plastic filter housing is not cracked or damaged
-There is no dirt or debris surrounding the O-ring or seating area within the unit. The slightest debris will cause a leak.
Also putting your finger inside the unit and feeling for any cracks or debris. Finally, run a small amount of Plumber's grease / silicone grease around the O-ring to ensure that it slips in properly, and to help it seal
Aside from the above suggestions, I unfortunately can't provide much more help without assessing it myself. But if I were to wager, my money would be on it being an O-ring issue. Please do feel free to share if you resolved your issue.
Best of luck!!
yep it was the first one. was NOT pushing in far enough !
thanks for the reply! still helping ppl years later 🙏🏽
AWESOME! Helping and educating is what it's ALL about! I'll always be around if anyone needs me...say, maybe even start pumping out some more videos again soon 🤔 (really getting that itch!)
This comment saved me. Also was not pushing far enough! Thanks for the reply!!
I hooked everything up, but nothing is coming out of the red hose. What did I do wrong?
Hmmm...that's a tricky one to troubleshoot without being there. A few things do come to mind, though:
-Make sure that the pump outlet is indeed ejecting the solution by unscrewing the hose from the heater's cold water inlet and redirecting it into the bucket. If liquid is coming out when you turn on the pump, then the issue is probably NOT the pump. In that case, be sure that the two service valves are indeed open to allow full flow from the cold inlet and the hot outlet.
If the pump's outlet is NOT putting out water, then make sure that you have enough liquid in the bucket so that it is well above the intake level underneath it. If the liquid level drops below the pump's intake, then it will NOT be able to suck in the liquid and deliver it to the water heater.
Also check to ensure that the inlet and outlet are not reversed. The pump's outlet should be going to the cold, and the water heater's hot outlet should be dumping straight into the bucket. Technically, it shouldn't matter, but it will rule out the remote possibility that your heater model may have a check valve which may be stopping the water from reverse-flowing.
Hope this helps!
Hy does any one experienced issue while inserting back the water filter and U pin ?
Yeah, it can be a little tricky. Make sure that the water filter is fully pushed in, otherwise the pin won't reinsert. Also, the pin goes in at a bit of an angle, and if I recall, one leg is a little longer than the other. Make sure that you have ample light beneath the unit to ensure that you can clearly see the holes.
Thank you so much for your response, will try was struggling to insert for couple of hours
No luck water leaking may be messed up 😮
Oh oh...perhaps the rubber O-ring surrounding the plug is worn or split? If the O-ring it's fully inserted, not damaged and just dripping slightly, then it may help to apply some plumber's or O-ring grease around the O-ring. It's a bit of a hail Mary, but it might be worth a shot until you can source a replacement plug or an exact-fitting O-ring.
Good luck! 🤞
@@PlumbingsCool thanks man for reply o ring is aboustely fine no damage, I see when I try to fit it leaves small gap and little outside but when I push the black one hard the u pin never goes it at all
I have restricted flow causing lukewarm water flow. I checked the inlet filter and it was quite clean so I did the vinegar procedure without success.
Is there anything stronger that I can use? The flow starts out ok but then is slows to a trickle. I tried reversing the hoses but get the same results.
Hmmm...I'm not too sure whether your issue is scaling in this case, and perhaps something else mechanical altogether. Although I can't even begin to troubleshoot your situation remotely, you did mention a few things which raise some red flags.
Notably, your water is lukewarm: Even if you had calcium buildup, your water is coming out so slowly that it should've come out hot. Also, I. Think you'd need quite a bit of calcium buildup to cause the restricted flow you're referring to.
If you're still convinced that your issue is the result of scaling, you might be able to try a dedicated descaler such as CLR...although I'd be very careful to check with the manufacturer's literature first. Also be sure to flush it thoroughly with clean water. You definitely don't want to be ingesting that stuff. In my experience though, simple white vinegar does an AMAZING job at removing scale.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help!
@@PlumbingsCool Thank for your response, I appreciate your help as well. Just to clarify, the flow restriction is during the flushing process with vinegar. It starts out pretty good then dwindles down to a trickle. Here’s the weird part, I have good water flow/pressure throughout the house during normal operation. The water starts out hot for a VERY short period before it gets lukewarm and stays that way.
That's strange indeed. I'm wondering whether you can call the manufacturer of your tankless heater. Ask for tech support, specifying your model number. More often than not, they can help you out because they know their own products so well. Just a thought.
@@PlumbingsCool that’s my next step. Being an automotive mechanic I’m pretty savvy at figuring things out and fixing them so I got myself to this point without favorable results. I’ll reach out to the manufacturer as I’ve hit a wall on this one.
Thank you and I’ll report back when I get it resolved so you can add to your diagnostic library.
Yes, please do! Given your mechanical aptitude, I'm sure you'll figure out this mystery. Thanks for sharing.
After circulation my water, I got a code twenty five and it's barely coming out of the hot wacirculating with Pop
I recommend that you first access your model's owner's manual (or online) to first find out what Code 25 is, and proceed from there.
I hear mix things on gas off. Some say the heat can help the process. I mean the worst that can happen is you burn yourself from hot water right?
I'd caution against it, strictly due to a bad experience I had with an electric tea kettle several years ago when I was still working in the office. Our area had extremely hard water and someone had brought in a brand new tea kettle, of which the element completely caked up with scale in about two weeks.
I had the genius idea to run the tea kettle while filled with pure white vinegar, aligning with your logic, that it would descale more efficiently.
Well, descale it did!...ad well as burn right through the element!...not to mention engulf the entire office air with evaporated vinegar, causing my teary-eyed colleagues to rush out for gasps fresh air!
Moral of the story: Check with the manufacturer before doing so! 😁
Hot water shut off is FROZEN. Any ideas on freeing it up?
Do you mean, frozen as in SEIZED? If so, I'm afraid there's little you can do, short of carefully adding some leverage to the valve handle by trying to turn it with the use of pliers if you haven't yet tried. Unfortunately, you may need to shut down your main water supply, drain the building, and replace the entire valve.
(long-term failure is sadly one of the detriments of plumbing; eventually, water has its way with what it touches - some things a little sooner than others!)
By the way: For future consideration, one way to minimize seizing is to go around your house every several months or so, and open & close any infrequently-used valves. This will help minimize or remove scale buildup around the inner surfaces, which is the cause of seizure.
Thanks for replying. With perseverance we got it.
AWESOME!!! 👍 👍
vinegar vs citric acid vs hydrochloric acid for descaling
I'm familiar with vinegar, only recently learned of using citric acid from a viewer, and know nothing about hydrochloric acid for descaling - although applying the latter sounds quite extreme on many levels, as hydrochloric acid is some pretty potent stuff!
👍🤘🤙
🙏!
Well perhaps one should think in descale your hot water pipes .... the same way. since is hot water!!! Also Warming you Vinegar increase the eficiency of your cleaning... . Great instructional video . love it. cheers mate
Interesting idea, but I'm not so sure that the effort to descale water lines would produce much tangible or noticeable return.
How would one descale hot water pipes? How many feet of hot water pipes in the house? How do you pump it in? You'll need hundreds of gallons of vinegar since you can form a loop to recycle the vinegar.
In theory sure but it's assinine to think this can be done.
I've heard that if you use Vinegar you must descale longer than if using those weird chemicals. One plumber claimed 4-5 hours! Another says 1 Hour. You say 30 minutes.....does anyone really know the appropriate time???
I suggest checking with the manufacturer, although in my experience straight white vinegar is extremely efficient at removing scale on short time. Circulating for one hour usually suffices for me. I've even soaked heavily scaled fixtures such as hand showers in vinegar for a few minutes, which effortlessly restored the surface to like-new condition.
We have ours descaled every year, and that's all the plumbers ever use. Simple old vinegar then charge $ 250-400. Usually here less than an hour.
Missing information, good luck people.
....Do you mean in my video, or in your comment? 🤔
great video! thanks!
Thanks so much! 🙏