Glad you made this, but to a lot of us, what a "short boarder's question" :) 1.There's always been a flow aesthetic, we used to call it Hawaiian Style (vs Aussie). 2. Surfing has no rules, surf what turns you on. 3. "Modern" designs are now 30 years old- pretty retro :) And have to say it- IMO thruster surfing looks generic, repetitive, dull. But hey....
Your commentary was spot on. Had a local shaper make me one about a year a go….7’0”. I am 59. I also ride 5’8” Sharpeye. They both serve a purpose. Options are good 🤙🏼
Me: getting close! Primary board is an 8’ board like these that paddles great for my husky size. I have an 8’ Tony Stapes semi-gun (named Great White, although she’s yellowing) for when things get serious, and a 9’ Native longboard (named Big Red) for fun surfing.
If that's what I want, I can surf my kayak. I am 65, with stenosis and osteoarthritis, but I have tried very few thicker boards that carve the way I want. I would rather ride one of my 10" 4"s than ride something that does not have sensitive edges. Go a little longer and if you have to, a little wider, but keep your rails carving. Get a few different boards. Research a model that Wayne Rich used to make for Frankie Morales called "If Six Turned Out To Be Nine."
Was riding them 20+ years ago, Pearson Arrow, Bill Stewart, Patagonia.......all great boards, all three fins, 7'8" to 8'2". Ride whatever you want, and don't dis others' choice of board. (Eaton made some excellent ones too, but never got my hands on one for more than an afternoon)
I have a 7'6" Eaton twinzer, belly nose, flat middle, deep double channel round pin tail, amazingly refined rails.. my favorite ride by far.. Eaton shapes have always impressed me.
Very cool! I recently drove to Phoenix from O'side to pick up an 8'6 Eaton Bonzer in about perfect condition. My favorite board back in the 80s was a 7'10 tri-fin egg from Aussie Grant Miller that could do anything. A few of us had the same board and loved them. I actually thought the orange and yellow board shown in the video might be it, but no. The biggest issue preventing people from having one is fear of judgement, so common in this sport, unfortunately.
Racing tires are designed for maximum performance but last only a few miles Eggshell Hpsb are perfect in contests with only 2-3 others surfers in the water and maybe jetski assist For regular, everyday surfing, including questionable swell size/direction, crowds, winds, tides and time constraints, you're better off making sure you're not just sitting watching everyone else catch waves Daily driver, just like a regular car/tires, is a great description
Attack the wave or connect? Points or pleasure? Spray or stoke? Slide glide high line flow trim lift speed woo hoo wee. Smooth and groovy. Not that black and white but yes it is.
Why is it that performance shortboard purist almost find it humorous when they see someone show up with a mid-length but then gets upset when the person with the mid-length seems to be catching the majority of the waves on most sessions? My quiver ranges from a retro twin fin fish, performance shortboards, mid-lengths and longboards, it’s all about drawing different lines on the wave with a different approach for different kinds of waves. There’s no right or wrong it’s all about having fun.
@@ffyncas6348 nothing wrong with fishes, but sometimes you gotta change it up, sometimes the fish won't go, and sometimes carving a longer rail on the open face just feels so gratifying in comparison to a fish
You left out my favorite synonym, "funshape," and yes, they can provide great performance. They once had a place in my quiver, but fell out of use when I found that a progressive high performance modern longboard does everything that a fun shape does, and often does it better.
I've been riding shortboards all my life. I can't ride a longboard for s***.And I've tried. My 1st board was a Brewer twin fin with huge rails (some MFer stole it,still mad about it) and it was just so fast. And for so many years my M.O. was more speed,more fun,more options.But when I get on a mid,for some reason I always creep up to the front and keep my feet together , I can't see anything but the wave in front of me,and it's the best feeling in the world. Obv those are on smaller waves, but maybe I'm a longboarder at heart.
At 57 yrs, 240lbs and 5’11” I ride an Infinity Secret Weapon. Not mid length at 9’6” but for me it works. Will be getting a shorter one 8’ in the near future. I go surfing now to have fun and catch waves, back and knees problems 😮
@@SeanOzz My longtime shaper/friend calls them eggs. My first funboard was a Greenough /Aus. design - the Con V-bottom (8-2). Got that board in 1968 (used). Soft rails with a semi diamond tail.
Glad you made this, but to a lot of us, what a "short boarder's question" :) 1.There's always been a flow aesthetic, we used to call it Hawaiian Style (vs Aussie). 2. Surfing has no rules, surf what turns you on. 3. "Modern" designs are now 30 years old- pretty retro :)
And have to say it- IMO thruster surfing looks generic, repetitive, dull. But hey....
I much prefer this style of harmonizing with the wave over the maniac slash and burn now so popular.
Very true.
First board I had was a takayama flo egg. I loved that damn thing.
Your commentary was spot on. Had a local shaper make me one about a year a go….7’0”. I am 59. I also ride 5’8” Sharpeye. They both serve a purpose. Options are good 🤙🏼
When you're 62 going on 23; you're looking for something that floats like a cork and paddles like a canoe.
Me: getting close!
Primary board is an 8’ board like these that paddles great for my husky size.
I have an 8’ Tony Stapes semi-gun (named Great White, although she’s yellowing) for when things get serious, and a 9’ Native longboard (named Big Red) for fun surfing.
Amen to that. Out to just have fun. Love my Infinity Secret Weapon
If that's what I want, I can surf my kayak. I am 65, with stenosis and osteoarthritis, but I have tried very few thicker boards that carve the way I want. I would rather ride one of my
10" 4"s than ride something that does not have sensitive edges. Go a little longer and if you have to, a little wider, but keep your rails carving. Get a few different boards. Research a model that Wayne Rich used to make for Frankie Morales called "If Six Turned Out To Be Nine."
@@kenjiwebb1509keep your rails carving... Thanks. Could be my new mantra
Was riding them 20+ years ago, Pearson Arrow, Bill Stewart, Patagonia.......all great boards, all three fins, 7'8" to 8'2". Ride whatever you want, and don't dis others' choice of board. (Eaton made some excellent ones too, but never got my hands on one for more than an afternoon)
I have a 7'6" Eaton twinzer, belly nose, flat middle, deep double channel round pin tail, amazingly refined rails.. my favorite ride by far.. Eaton shapes have always impressed me.
Very cool! I recently drove to Phoenix from O'side to pick up an 8'6 Eaton Bonzer in about perfect condition. My favorite board back in the 80s was a 7'10 tri-fin egg from Aussie Grant Miller that could do anything. A few of us had the same board and loved them. I actually thought the orange and yellow board shown in the video might be it, but no. The biggest issue preventing people from having one is fear of judgement, so common in this sport, unfortunately.
Racing tires are designed for maximum performance but last only a few miles
Eggshell Hpsb are perfect in contests with only 2-3 others surfers in the water and maybe jetski assist
For regular, everyday surfing, including questionable swell size/direction, crowds, winds, tides and time constraints, you're better off making sure you're not just sitting watching everyone else catch waves
Daily driver, just like a regular car/tires, is a great description
You can thank Torren Martin for the resurgence in midlengths but also twin pin midlengths...
Attack the wave or connect? Points or pleasure? Spray or stoke? Slide glide high line flow trim lift speed woo hoo wee. Smooth and groovy. Not that black and white but yes it is.
Born and raised in SoCal. They’re aren’t new….used to see them for years back in the 80’s
Why is it that performance shortboard purist almost find it humorous when they see someone show up with a mid-length but then gets upset when the person with the mid-length seems to be catching the majority of the waves on most sessions? My quiver ranges from a retro twin fin fish, performance shortboards, mid-lengths and longboards, it’s all about drawing different lines on the wave with a different approach for different kinds of waves. There’s no right or wrong it’s all about having fun.
90% of surfers on 90% of conditions should be on a mid. Especially in Southern California. Those that get angered by the idea have fragile egos.
I just like fishes more
Amen
@@ffyncas6348 nothing wrong with fishes, but sometimes you gotta change it up, sometimes the fish won't go, and sometimes carving a longer rail on the open face just feels so gratifying in comparison to a fish
Just bought a 6'0 sweet potato, 49L of volume, funnest board I've owned in 20 years!
they work great on decent waves with big open faces .. down in my area I can only surf quick beach breaks and that is a struggle to surf with a mid
6'10 Maurice Cole Shiva
You left out my favorite synonym, "funshape," and yes, they can provide great performance. They once had a place in my quiver, but fell out of use when I found that a progressive high performance modern longboard does everything that a fun shape does, and often does it better.
I've been riding shortboards all my life. I can't ride a longboard for s***.And I've tried. My 1st board was a Brewer twin fin with huge rails (some MFer stole it,still mad about it) and it was just so fast. And for so many years my M.O. was more speed,more fun,more options.But when I get on a mid,for some reason I always creep up to the front and keep my feet together , I can't see anything but the wave in front of me,and it's the best feeling in the world. Obv those are on smaller waves, but maybe I'm a longboarder at heart.
At 57 yrs, 240lbs and 5’11” I ride an Infinity Secret Weapon. Not mid length at 9’6” but for me it works. Will be getting a shorter one 8’ in the near future. I go surfing now to have fun and catch waves, back and knees problems 😮
Late 60's Mike Doyle wrote an article stating that midlengths should and would be the most practical performer in most waves.
Funboards are always a good bet around SM Bay. Easier to lock down inside the vehicle. Thanks,Brad !
YES! They fit inside my VW Golf! LOL
Ok. That’s what we always called these also. I was confused when that wasn’t in the list of names.
@@jamespardue3055 The lady of the house has a Golf GTi . The Ernie Tanaka funboard - single fin pintail - carefully fits inside.
@@SeanOzz My longtime shaper/friend calls them eggs. My first funboard was a Greenough /Aus. design - the Con V-bottom (8-2). Got that board in 1968 (used). Soft rails with a semi diamond tail.
I have a 6' 8'' hybrid fish that rides like a short board.
My 7’ egg was made by an austere hipster than you’ve never even heard of.
Got a Big Baron, i would never ride a shortboard again!
Saw a nice one by Chili in Florida after I moved from Santa Cruz, CA in 2020
Shopping for a mid right now, had a freaking blast on my buddy's board this morning. Tired of trying to make my 33L fish work in small waves.
So you’re telling me I don’t need a longboard to sit outside and snake the rest of the lineup!?!?
i have surfer an egg since i got of the wavestorm
I went from a 6ft stretch to a 7’6 speed egg and now I’m a better surfer
Not yet 🏄♀️🌊🌊🌊🌊
Are these not the same as fun boards ?
Had the same thought lol
"Funboards" are a subcategory of mids.. but mids come in many forms, probably the most diverse category of board types.
I call them crowd pleasers.
Check out Marce piña she is making them out of wood in Costa Rica. You can take a class and build one with her. There fun!
Cool love the content and only people that didn’t come from TikTok can like this
👍🏻
We believe in one god and his name is Torren Martyn
On 5'4😂
In so cal if your board is longer than you are tall your not a surfer your a kook. Jhahhahaahhahahahahahah
This is something a kook would say