Surfing take off and handling the DROP (suitable for longboard and shortboard)

We have discussed about board center balancing concept, paddling, pop up, take off spot, and today is about handling the DROP right after pop up, before stance or wipe out.
When you are facing a drop from the rising wave face, that is where your board pick up the speed, it is not a wipe out yet, before you are out of the board - therefore get the concept right and try to manage it.
Here are the 3 points when you are taking off steep, and one method to ride it with low center of gravity (suitable for long board and short board)
Do share with us what other method to ride these steep rise. Thank you.
Ah Gan
Dive Surf Yoga instructor

[@mrjjwells2]

This video is solid gold, thank you Ah.

[@wildawakening1676]

You are the first person to explain this in this way (the fear of the drop). Exactly what I needed to understand. Thanks!

[@X-Fluid]

This was very useful. So simple, thank you 😊

[@josepedrocarvalho3111]

curious about that guitar collection though! :D as for the video, simple is power. Thanks

[@islandgan]

🤣 guitar collection is to just act cool, I only know 4 chords.

[@stevosaurusrekd2396]

Great info thanks!

[@pumapaw2020]

2024 cool stuff guy, mahalos

[@Lincoln018]

What is that foot stand you have near the tail of the board? Where can I get one?

[@islandgan]

If I understood ur question correctly, it is called a surfboard tail / traction pad, u can buy online.