Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Are Your 1973-1979 F Series Door Panels Broken? Let Me Show You How To Fix Them!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 бер 2024
- Follow along as I show you how to fix your broken dentside door panels for cheap! Make them look new! This works for all 1973-1979 F series trucks! I also show you the main cause of broken door panels!
Thanks for the good tips. It's better the new it's been FIXED!
It should last quite a while
Literally exactly what I went through like 2 months ago on my 79 f250. Completely cracked to bits and missing chunks around the armrests and door handles. I spent a long time just plastic welding the things back together with wire mesh on the front and back and plastic welding rods. I'm gonna do the same thing with those stupid horn pads that always break and the splits in the steering wheel. I plastic welded straightened staples into the speaker areas as those thin plastic pieces were cracked.
I have found you can put mesh on the backside and keep laying down the plastic rods to make any missing pieces, after that putting another mesh on top. I had to sculpt 3 of the broken panel clip holders on the back shaping them with mesh again.
I sanded it all down and there is a USC plastic filler you can buy that I used to fill in any lows. I bought some SEM texture coating to put the texture back on. You have to spray it at different distances to give you different textures, it's pretty cool stuff.
This is all if you wanna fix 'em fancy, I'm restoring this truck but do still want to use it for work in construction. These products are kinda pricey minus the plastic welding stuff.
Personally, when I first started using plastic interior paints, I found the stuff will start to peel unless you get the surface incredibly clean, use adhesion promoter, and do several INCREDIBLY LIGHT coats with it. You literally just mist the adhesion promoter on lightly like 3-4 times every 2 minutes or so, and spray your paint on within 10 minutes of that last coat of promoter.
I have found that 5-6 very light coats every 3-4 minutes with the paint will make a perfect finish in the end.
I use dish soap and warm water or prep-all with a soft bristle drill brush to clean all interior stuff before painting. After that I wash them off with a garden hose. It saves SO much time cleaning the stuff and you will never have adhesion issues related to cleanliness. I used to do it by hand and it still would never quite stick right in some spots. If you think about it, people's dirty hands have probably touched every interior part like thousands of times.
If you do it like this that paint is never, ever coming off.
You can get the metal door cups you are talking about on LMC truck or ebay for about $20 a pair.
If you ever have a panel someone else sprayed the wrong paint on (this has happened to me of course), you can get it off with steel wool and not destroy the texture. Your other options are spraying Berryman carb cleaner dip with the 1 gallon pail and the basket (believe it or not). I found this out leaving a power steering pump in it overnight. It doesn't damage the plastic and the paint will peel right off. You can also use paint stripper but that's expensive.
Thanks for the videos. From what I can see it looks great on camera. I don't mean to write ya an essay, I've just had infuriating issues with plastic painting in the past and I find it's difficult to get it down, especially if you ever do vinyl or fabric.
Ya , looks good . I like to use silicone to hold the push pins in place . Also , I like to insulate the inside area of panel with old carpet pad . I made a sheet metal cover for the access holes in doors for window regulators . Quiets it up quite a bit .
They had silicone holding the clips, door panels and all in place! I had to cut the door panels loose because of the insane amount of silicone that they used lol
Nice job... I use stainless mesh and hot staples to add straight to my plastic repairs.. Fusor is good stuff
I looked at one of those plastic welder kits that uses the staples a week or so ago. I need to try one of them. I've used Fusor and 3M both and honestly I think Fusor is every bit as good as 3M.
Very, very nice, brand new used. It looks fantastic, like new pretty good for a 45 year old door panel, and the price is right.😎👍
Thank You for your kind words! I think they are fine for a work truck.
I actually have some of that SEM texture coating I got to use on my Trans Am dash but haven’t used it yet. I have it and the Polyvance plastic filler for dash pads, door panels, and stuff. Normally I use Bulldog adhesion promoter. When dealing with plastics. Actually it’s in my video where I fix those pony wheels for my mustang. I think the biggest thing that causes adhesion problems with dashes and door panels is if a prior owner used Armorall on them a lot. I HATE that stuff! Lol A friend of mine offered to let me use his plastic welder that uses staples to hold the plastic together but I had already done these when I talked to him but maybe in the future I'll give that process a try and see how it holds up.
Have you used JB Weld's PlasticWeld, and if yes, how does it compare?? I'm asking this because of the price difference. As for your neighbor's dog constantly barking, just about every municipality in the USA, assuming that you live here, has what is called "nuisance laws" that can be applied to dogs barking, and many other neighborly issues.
Oh yes I’m in the USA. In TN actually but this county has no noise ordinance laws. None…I know this first hand because back when I had a band we would regularly get the law called on us while practicing. But all they could do was show up and ask us if we would turn it down. If we didn’t there was nothing they could do to us. As far as the JB Weld for plastic…I have used it but I haven’t found it to be real good stuff. That Lord Fusor I use to repair bumper covers and it won’t turn loose. But I have tried the JB Weld for plastic and the Bondo brand repair for plastic and both of them came loose from the bumpers