Rattle Can Respray & Rear Brake Pump on ROLLS ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT - PART 30
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- PART 30 of this New Series. In this episode I mess around with another attempt at painting, will it turn out better than the paint brush? 😂 I also try and seal the rear brake pump to hopefully stop the hydraulic leaks.
Let's see how it all goes.
My biggest challenge yet! Can I FIX a 1988 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit with too many faults to list, there is more wrong with it than right. Will I end up crying into my Connolly leather seats or will this beast live on.
This is the cheapest Rolls Royce in the UK so I wasn't expecting much, hopefully bit by bit with sheer determination and zero skill I will attempt to fix each fault one by one.
This is PART 29 of this series. Every part will be filmed, and I hope to discover the craftmanship that has gone into this 34 year old moving piece of art.
Merch is here!!!!! www.puddlt.com...
If you would like to support these videos, please click here / mymatevince
If you have an interesting 'non returnable' item for a 'trying to fix' video then my PO box is as follows. Please only use if you are from the UK and using Royal Mail.
PO Box 2597
WATFORD
WD18 1HT
UK
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. - Навчання та стиль
Love this series. The infinite number of issues is a feature not a bug
😂This car sure has a lot of features! 😂👍
@@Mymatevince LMFAO !!.....cheers !
1÷0 features
Its a nightmare spraying when its this cold outside. This time of year if I had to spray anything it would have to be in the garage, with a heater on to get the temps up before spraying. The wing came out great for the conditions you had, well done mate. Its difficult outside even when its warm, then you have the bugs landing on the paint lol. I would save your money on the top coat and lacquer just get each panel the best you can, paint it to stop it rusting and have someone paint it all when you have finished repairing it, that way you won't have mismatched panels. Good luck man.😀
Proper advice there !
RR Part 90: Hoisting the engine out, Vince finds a tray filled with hundreds of nuts and bolts.
Along with the nuts and bolts he finds: 30 pounds worth of change, a spare spanner, 2 foreign currency notes and inexplicably, an Xbox 360 controller
@Richie Reports UK Nah man, the white powder bags will be found in episode 75 when he has to remove the exhaust
@@ShockingPikachu He will then fix the Xbox controller on the blue mat :)
You will always get orange peel with a rattle can 1k you will get it more as it dries faster so it’s drying as your laying it on the panel, 2k wouldn’t be as bad.
If you wet flat the lacquer (clear coat) with 1500 wet then apply another couple of coats, let it harden and wet flat it down then polish it up using the g3 you can get a pretty flat finish.
But don’t beat yourself up you’ve done a good job.
Keep the videos coming vince really enjoy watching them.
Am I the only one who gets excited when a new episode of the RR's journey is released? I doubt it! 😊👍
R-R No You are not alone
No, I get excited too, this is such fun, better than Eastenders and Get me out of the jungle, this is reality TV at its best.
I do too and am happiest when it’s a long video too.
Never thought I would be interested in watching someone fix up a car, came across yours and now it's one of my faves! Keep up the good work. Always looking forward to the next episode
I did an image search on Google. I think the front wheel position in relation to the fender is "normal". I wonder if it was a design note made to give the front end a surging forward aesthetic. (?) I have really been enjoying the series. '72 VW Beetle owner here.
Maybe it is not so noticeable or goes away when the back end lifts up
I've binge watched the whole series over the whole week. I've had a LOT of cars and never one with quite so many issues. I think you got the right car! Gonna be satisfying when it's completely done. Love the series!!
never expected to watch a 30 part series about someone who repairs his car...
good job mate... really interesting ;)
Hi Vince - I'm sure a professional technician can correct me here if I'm mistaken but ideally you should not use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt. I've done it in an emergency where I don't have a "breaker bar" available for loosening lug bolts that were installed with an impact "gun".
I think that the only thing more "infinite" than the number of issues with your RR is the amount of tools you would have to accumulate to tackle many of these jobs - even if they're limited to hand tools only.
Keep up the great work I always look forward to watching this series and learn some thing in each installment!
I think in the last episode he said the torque wrench was broken already so wasn't worried about messing it up
One tip with rattle cans, if you've not finished your can of paint, turn the can upside down and spray until you see no more pain come through. This will prevent the nozzle becoming blocked also a rag dipped in some thinners, give the nozzle a quick wipe ready for use next time.
Another thing that I would recommend is getting the hand trigger for paint cans. Makes spraying easier and keeps your finger away from the spray nozzle. I don't know what the proper term for it is, but Rustoleum does it. Works a treat.
Top tip for rattle cans - give them a good shake and stand the can in very hot water. This increases the pressure a little and the paint goes on so much better and dries quickly too. 😎😎😎😎
I watch Nats knackers yard and he's done some really good work with rattle cans and using the 2K stuff.
Top rattle can tip is rattle them, who would have thought
Dear Paul Ranson Art.
😱 DON'T GIVE SUCH DANGEROUS ADVICE IN PUBLIC! ONLY WARM WATER IS APPROPRIATE, DEFINITELY NOT HOT OR, EVEN WORSE, VERY HOT WATER! PRESSURIZED RATTLE CANS CAN EXPLODE EASILY IF THE CONTENT OF (GAS AND PAINT) EXPANDS TOO MUCH! SO PLEASE DELETE YOUR VERY WRONG ADVICE OR AT LEAST CORRECT IT! Thanks in advance.
2) In a bucket with hot water you can definitely warm up wax and oil based, PRESSURELESS cans with cavity preservation, undercoating or stone chip protection stuff.
Best regards, luck, health and wisdom.
@@Chr.U.Cas1622 always one Karen 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@dorsetguerrillagrower He's right though, every aerosol can i've seen has warnings on them about not leaving them in the sun. They also say to not expose them to temperatures above 50 degrees celsius.
Hi Vince. I'm an AA patrol. We use a 3/4" socket set with a 24" breaker bar it's amazing how much force you can put through this socket set without it bending. And another recommendation would be 24" water pump pliers to remove the spheres. I remember working in garages on Citroen cars replacing spheres and had no problem in undoing them. Another heavy duty tool are Stilton's, great for stubborn parts.
They're stilsons
Very hard to tell on camera but I think you did a great job there Vince on the wing, you are battling the elements in the garden with the temperature being one of you enemies along with air born contamination and poor lighting under that tarp.
When its cold 1K paint takes much longer to dry as the solvents in the paint find it hard to off gas into the air, this will also increase the chances of runs as the panel is very cold. If the panel is warm as soon as the paint hits it starts to dry allowing you to spray more on at once before it runs.
You can also find in cold temps that you get hazing in the clear which gives the clear a white appearance. If you can get a little heater going and trap some of the heat under the tarp that would help, you could also try pre-heating the panel with a heat gun on a low heat.
Like you say 2K paint is dangerous and you really need a paint booth and air fed mask along with a paint suit and gloves, 2K is all that is used now in automotive paint as it drys fast and is very hard. 1K paint is very soft which makes finishing like wet sanding and compounding easy but it can be marked easy by bird droppings and even water marks. It takes 1K paint months to fully cure as the solvents in the paint slowing off gas but even then it is still very soft compared to 2K.
The biggest reason the automotive industry changed to 2K was the UV resistance, we have all seen the old red cars that faded to a milky red colour well that was due to UV damage from the sun.
Not only did these vehicles use 1K paint but they also did not have a clear coat so the UV rays could directly attack the base coat. Then they started using 1K clear over the top of the 1K base and whilst you did not get the colour fading issue the UV still attacked the clear which resulted in a dull finish you had to compound every few months to get the shine back. Thing is you only have so much clear to compound off until you hit the base :)
2K paint is very UV resistant and does the exhibit these problems.
You can flat the runs out by wet sanding them and then compounding out the sanding marks very easily with 1K paint as it is very soft as long as you applied enough clear, at least three good coats. 2K paint due the hardener you spoke about sets very hard and can be difficult to work with and finish especially for a beginner.
That wing is very complex also in its shape with vertical and horizontal planes which makes it even harder to spray as the sometimes you will be in good light and then you are in shadow making it impossible to see the wet line and will be traversing horizontal and vertical planes whilst spraying to get an even wet coat. Try spraying a simpler panel like the door to get your eye in.
If you want all the orange peel gone you will need to treat every coat the same and that includes the primer. I normally go from p120 up to p500 for the primer & base and then same for the clear but finish by wet sanding with p1000 before compounding with a wool mop on a rotary polisher.
I think in your case because you did not flat the primer or base coat that is why you are still seeing orange peel telegraphing through the clear as if you wet sanded the clear correctly all the orange peel would have been removed from the clear.
The dual action orbital polisher you are using with foam pads is great for paint correction on finished paint but when you are doing bodywork you need some power to cut away the sanding marks and orange peel so rotary polishers are used which are basically angle grinders with a speed control.
You will never beat a rotary for speed and level of cut but you need experience as it is easy to burn right through the paint if you stay in one spot to long or have the mop/pad at too steep of an angle compared to the panel.
The wool mop is very aggressive but gives a heavy cut removing lots of material fast but with this comes the risk of burning through the clear.
I then finish with foam pads (3 different grades to match the compound I am using) like you are using and you can use a dual action orbital at this stage as the heavy cutting has been done but I just use the rotary as its faster, I use the Menzerna compound system to finish which is three stages but you can use what works for you. I like Menzerna as it does not create much dust or sling which makes clean up easier.
The wheel being offset in the arch, this is what is called caster could be a number of things, I hope it is an ancillary like the suspension radius arm that is bolt off and on so you can change it.
My worst fear is that the sub frame or chassis is bent, this is where that inspection on a lift would have come in handy.
Things like accident damage are my easier to spot with the vehicle up in the air as you can actually see the chassis.
The outside is usually prettied up but the real damage still lurks beneath.
Really needs to go for four wheel alignment where they can check if the front wheels are inline with the back wheels to stop crabbing as well as checking caster, camber and tow front and rear.
This costs around £60 and is not your usual two wheel alignment most garages offer as the equipment is in excess of 20K.
As always hope this helps.
Adam
Helps massively Adam, as all your comments do. Invaluable source of car information 🙏👌👍
Rattle can spraying is definitely an art and looks far better than the brushed on gloss paint finish we used to do on our 1970's Cortina's back when I first started driving in the late 80's. I painted the sills with that black sticky underseal stuff and then used white gloss for the top of the car and a stick on vinyl for the roof, my Ford Cortina 2000E never looked so bloody awful🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I know it must be frustrating finding all these faults Vince but, every time you turn that key.. oh man does that sound go right through you! Keep it up mate I don't think you will regret it!
We need an episode where you tidy the car please.
Enjoying the whole series. It is super fun to repair along with you. Can't wait for the day to see you cruising down the road in it!
I would strongly advise on buying a breaker bar, Vince. A torque wrench is not the right tool for the job of the brake pumps or anything where you need to get a 'crack' from a nut or bolt. I picked up my one from Machine Mart about 18 or so years ago and it's still serving me well. I have had to put a lot of torque on it, hasn't broken on me.
@Bfef Vince already said in a previous video that this torque wrench he is using is already toast, and he is essentially using it as a breaker bar because of its length. It is already damaged so he is doing fine with it. A proper breaker bar would still likely be better for the option of putting a pipe on it to increase leverage
You can always use a jack handle on the end of a shorter bar. I always drill a hole through the plastic grip to allow this. Other bonus is you usually know where to find it.
Vince I see your feeling much more hopeful than your last video about this car. I love watching you work on it but it does seem to be much more labor intensive than electronic or household fix it videos and much harder to film and edit, keep up the good work its very entertaining watching you work on this 🚗 car despite the cost to your physical well being to be very honest its an incredibly big job even if you were not filming it. Good on you Vince for persevering 👍
Reason you have orange peel is when you applied the primer after it dries is when I wetsand that way the paint lays flatter. Also make sure after you wet sand and primer you degrease and tack cloth before applying paint then rinse and repeat. Loving this series mate keep up the good work.Also side note the wheel not being centered is do to the alignment on the caster side of the alignment. get her all buttoned up and get an alignment and issue will be fixed. Cheers!
YOU ROCK VINCE!!!!!
I wouldn't use the torque wrench, as a breaker bar. Doing a great job, I will watch these series until the end. I would paint only when temperature are over 72 F. Runs can be sanded down.
I think the same every time I go out and work on my 1992 BMW e32 7 Series. It was their luxury barge and despite its service history until 2016 it is so worn out.
I love seeing you fix so many things on this, Vince - the variety is really quite wonderful - and I'm sure you're secretly happy there's so much for you to do (we'll all collectively look away and pretend we can't see or hear on those few occasions when you're quietly sobbing into your mug 😆), but the one thing I keep thinking you shouldn't do is the paint. It's one of those things that a professional is just going to do so much better, and on a car that large, and that you've put so much work in to, I worry that an amateur or less-than-perfect paint job could ruin the whole thing (for you, I mean).
That said a) it's going to be eye-wateringly expensive, and the car may have bankrupted you by completion and, b) perhaps you'll be able to get a really good finish with practice. I'd certainly be happy if you proved me wrong.
Thank you very much for another very entertaining video.
Car spraying is definitely an art. I found a nice thick coat of gloss, sand and mechanical polish can give good results. 👍. To fix paint runs you try the technique of scraping with straight edge craft knife. The. You can then polish to a shine. Though a thick layer of gloss give more opportunity to fix gloss imperfections.
I'm also like so many other people in the comments and really enjoying the whole restoration part and am looking forward to part 917
I know of a few pubs in London where you used to be able to get an MOT for anything!
@11:46 didn't mean to chuckle, but I did. The spray doesn't look bad. Most likely its just building technique moving forward. Well done Vince!
I've been truly blessed for never ending content 😂
@@Mymatevince 🤣
Vince - You're perseverance is to be admired 😀
Love this series Vince, love the duck although he has to go as those panels will look gorgeous once fully painted, he could instead live on as a stuffed toy duck in the interior somewhere, your DIY spray painting actually looks great!
Hi Vince, wonderful work and learning experience! Still working on my first car purchased in 75 (1973 Celica). Just a warning, take off your ring and your watch! Especially when working on an engine with live electricity. Still have the arc marks on my signet ring where the coil current entered and exited the ring! The watch, (one of your videos) does not need another video on how to remove scratches and replace the LCD panel! Cheers, Geoff
Good advice
She's looking good for rattle can mate. Bit more flatting and polishing it will come nice. 🙂
Oh Vince, i feel you so much. Lost by swapping my valve cover and gasket a bolt in the engine bay. Wasnt that big of a deal. But is for the next one one the Autobahn behind me. 😅
Happy 30 to this series. I love it.
I can’t remember what episode it was now where your Father pointed out the front wheels weren’t central to the front wings, I had a look today and my 1992 spirit 11 is the same, I never would have known but for you pointing it out, now it will be the first thing I notice when I look at my car 😢
I enjoyed rattle-can respraying my Honda Civic saloon back in 2003! Good to see that it's still fun for you, too. 👍
She’s gunna be a beauty Vince! You can do it!
Such a wonderful journey improving this classic, keep going Vince.
I think you're being a bit hard on yourself - That looks amazing
Before you panic on the front wheel position remember the wheel maybe forward or the wing may be set back. The wing could be back due to accident damage or has been replaced badly or by a non-OEM part. I would suggest you first check geometry by comparing left and right sides visually then 1) measure distance between centre of back hub to front hub which should be the same left and right then 2) measure diagonal front right to back left and front left to back right which should be the same (don’t worry about width as track width may be different front and back). Actual measurements may be in the manual but you can check even without figures initially.
If measurements are different then it could be as simple as bushes in the bottom wishbone worn. Sometimes these are adjustable or it could (but seems unlikely if it has moved forward) be bent wishbone due to accident damage. Wishbone replacement should be a reasonable job especially if you are able to compress the suspension spring.
You're right the front wheels don't look right great video keep up the great work you're doing.
we always enjoy it love your car keep em coming vince
I really have to read up on how the braking system of this rolls Royse works... so many parts of it have me confused.
Either way, great video - I personally don't think the paint job looks bad at all - rattle can paint jobs can be done well and look stunning!
The wheel gaps is probably normal caster.
The fumes of banger racing 😂
the paintjob Looking good !!!!!!
Please don't give up on this thing. You're doing my dream, buying an old English car and bringing it back to some form of glory
Keepem' coming Vince. Thanks for the video!
A cheap Amazon folding gazebo and the tarps as walls would be also useful to work when it rains, stable and easy to store.
I’m loving the series Vince.
Me to!
Orange peel with rattle cans is often due to too much distance while spraying. The paint dries up too much while traveling through the air and doesn't flow out properly after hitting the panel. Something you may want to experiment with in future spray paint projects.
The fact he’s spraying sideways onto a sideways surface means he’s got less material on it too. All adds up.
you can get non air feed masks for the 2k paint. you can now get Isocyanate-Free 2k aswell, not sure if in aerosol form
Temperature is very important. Of the surface and spray itself. Love these videos mate.
Definitely get a proper breaker bar.
can't wait to see it on the banger track
The thing is here vince is doing a great job on this car and thus far his skills are exellent yes it was a cheap old car but it could be a great old car , i had 2 of these and i will say this when these brakes fail its not good 2 plus tons of car is a nightmare to stop . Any mineral oils on that engine is the first thing now mot look for , i have had this . Its a instant fail . He has done the hardest bit and changed the spheres. He is slowly bringing it back And learned about the fundamental things on the car . But breaks on these need to be right .
I googled images of the " 1990 silver spirit Rolls Royce " and it seems that the forward wheel is normal, unless of course every photo taken has had the car involved in a major front-end crash..
I reckon that 1k paint job is good enough. It passes the 10 foot rule. If the other panels turn out similar or better its going to look great.
You might be able to correct the orange peel, there's a 50/50 chance. If you wanted to salvage it, wet sanding (800 grit, give or take), followed by a heavy cut compound (I've had good experience with Menzerna) and a medium to hard polishing pad (least abrasive always first, lambskin pad if you can't help it), followed by a one-step/cut polish with a one-step/cut pad (definitely no more lambskin pad here, way too much cut). If the way from Hamburg would not be so far, I would be there immediately with my care bag to help.
Good job mate 👍
Great video again
Brilliant work!!!
Around the 30:00 mark - yeah, don't rely too much on puddles of fluid to indicate leaks. I spent hours hunting an oil leak only to find that the oil was simply slowly seeping out of a cavity _that was filled with oil due to a leak that was already fixed._ I like to call them phantom leaks 😂
(Obviously, if your car is vomiting fluids, it's a leak. But it's worth checking if it's really a _leak,_ or if it's just a _phantom leak.)_
When you going to take it for MOT body work can do any time after the MOT and it's not the weather for body work need the summer months!!!!!!
Hi Vince, your doing a great job and people are enjoying your videos, keep up the good work, Kind regards from Andrew tropical Queensland Australia.
You prime using what ever primer you need, etch/hi build etc, then dust some matt black paint or use a proper guide coat powder over primer, then you wet sand the primer using 600/800 and a block (never the paper on your hand as the primer wont be sanded flat). After the primer coats wet flatted, you will see any high or low spots because the guide coat was used in a dark colour. Once theres no more high or lows and the primers fully flatted, wash it down. Then use panel wipe to degrease, then wipe the panel over with a tack cloth. Then you go on with your base coat, in this case because its metallic, you shouldn't sand it between coats UNLESS you get a run which would be difficult to do with base. You dont sand the base coat before you clear, because you will sand through the metallics. If you've sprayed the base perfectly, it'll be smooth anyway and no need to sand before clear. Let the base dry, then just a light tack cloth off to pickup any left over metallic particles. Then your clear. If using a 2k, 3 coats will be plenty. If using 1k, 3-6 would be needed so that you've got enough to let you wet sand and compound up before you hit the base under it. 1k clear honestly isn't worth using. Its not chemical or petrol resistant and will never achieve a full "cure". 2k clear is the only way to go. A good respirator will be enough working outside to keep your lungs safe. If you dont want to use 2k clears, and dont mind a colour change on the car, a good shout for a classic is a single stage solid colour. You mix cellulose thinners with it, and when you wet sand it and compound it, you're actually cutting through the colour coat as its a all in one paint. No clear needed. Safe to spray too, and regularly used on classics.
You should do a track day in the rolls royce if it gets back on the road, nothing like some classic banger racing!!
Good work on this particular part. Perhaps the front wheel geometry/tracking is a little out or the front suspension arm or track rod ends are a bit worn and out of place? The paintwork is looking pretty good tbf and maybe the paint isn't blending with or sticking so well to the bodywork during the colder weather?
Yeah, luxury cars tends to break more down the line. They have more components and more complicated technology that break earlier and more often. An honestly bad pick for a regular guy, but for your channel I think it was good choice since there is so much to do on it. love your series btw
Working in confined space with risk of losing a tool, nut, washer etc. stuff an old towel or tea-towel in the voids below the work area. This gives fighting chance of capturing escapees…
Gert Jan Wijma
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Hi Vince, love your posts! It tells me a lot about the technics and details of the car. Love to own one, some day.
It is not just your wheels that are off-center. The wheelarches were originally disigned for run-flat tyres (Dunlop Denovo). They abandoned that option before release, it was to late for restyling.
That polisher is 7 years old now Vince! Isocyanates are also in expanding foam, I wear a respirator p3 whenever dealing with it. If anyone is interested soudal now sell a Isocyanates free expanding foam which is much less toxic for human health.
I believe jawel and some other companies also sell isocyanate free 2k clearcoat Vince.
Doubt they do rattle cans variants though
great episode fingers crossed for you Vince :)
On video that paint job looks excellent!
Did you ever check the date codes on those tyres? The offside front one looks absolutely ancient!
Once you're about to get it out on the road, you should totally do a Collab with AutoAlex!
I'll just chip in to say I'm someone who's sprayed isocyanate containing paints without a mask.
(not cars but furniture) in a booth.
a decent mask will stop the fumes from entering your lungs. it's just more about people not wearing them properly and sealing to the face. so they say airfed only.
Once you go airfed masks then you have to make sure the air is safe to breath what's feeding the mask.
I understand people will scoff at the thought of me not wearing a mask for spraying, but I felt fairly comfortable doing this, as the company worked for paid for a test, which showed the amount of vapour I saw breathing in and the isocyanates was ,less than ,000.1
Could it be possible that the valves at the back that control the rear suspension are stuck? The suspension went up when you initially worked on the spheres, so maybe the valves allowed fluid in but not back out when put under load?
I work on boats for a living and I can 100% feel the frustration with everything this episode. Some days it feels like the world is working against you!
You should get yourself a cheap air compressor and gun it would have made the paint lay better and you can adjust the flow.
Yep, I doubt it would be more expensive than what he's shelling out on cans.
Vince I can't believe 30 video, and still strong. I loved your paint booth.
I would 100% confirm the direction of rotation on those brake parts and then get a 4-6ft pipe to put on the end of your breaker bar. It will come off one way or another.
Nice job on the paint Vince!
Honestly I’m surprised it took you to episode 30 to realise what a total mess this car is😂 literally everything you could think of is faulty, but you’re going through it all anyway!
Love Adam, the Norfolk man cave!
Thanks very much 😀. 😀
I have been enjoying this and I have just bought a car and it was good value because it has one issue which is a hole in a door about the size of a half penny and after watching what you're doing mines going to be a walk in the park.
At the end it will be a 10/10 car.
Looks great at 10ft, or 10mph.
would think flatting back the primer is a must. How many coats of undercoat and top coat were used? Thinking maybe it needed a few more. Its still a great job though and most people wouldnt even notice.
you want to check the bushings on the wishbones Vince, as that will cause the wheels to be too forward or back. apart from that it is probably going to cost a lot of money to investigate, the only way for the drivers wheel to really be forward is either parking on a hill with the rear wheels a lot lower than the front, incorrect handbrake adjustment is another common cause for it, hitting a kerb at high speed in reverse and the wheel turned fully left when hitting the kerb, wrapping the car around something large like an impact on the drivers side, but a lot can happen in 10 years Vince, the service history is basically useless because of all the faults that can happen in 2 or more years. but yes banger racing is all the car was good for when you bought it, or in the metal gods hands.
either that or bushings in the crossmember under the engine.
Measure the wheelbase on each side with wheels straight. Same?
Wonderful update Vince
For best results with painting any kind of painting the main rule to follow is lighter coats it will take more coats to cover but it will be more even coats , light coats wait a while (like 30 minutes) in between coats you want it slightly tacky still and for smother finishes you want to wet sand primer and wipe clean and allow to dry before applying base coat
What you called orange peel looks more like dry spray. It can happen when you spray too far away and/or under less than ideal temperature/environment. Basically, the paint is somewhat dry before it hits the surface so it creates a sort of sandpaper effect on the surface.
So glad it's a blue tarp
On guitars, they say that you apply 7 coats of clear coat because sanding and polishing will wear out 2 or 3 of them to achieve a perfect finish. FIne sanding between coats is required.
Great job =D Mrs Santa is bringing me a Vince Rolls mug for XMAS (well, I hope she is...) =D I am wondering if the front left wheel is nearer to the front, due to suspension on that side?
Thanks Chris, well if Mrs Santa doesn't deliver the mug then My Mate Vinc..err Santa will 👍👍 Guaranteed to make the drinks taste better 👌
You see, the more hazard warnings a product has, the better it is. If there are big, red crosses, dead fish and skulls, you're good.
Anything that says "mild, ph neutral, skin friendly, light, environmentally friendly" and especially "non-toxic" is useless.
🤣 Like decking and fence paint!!!! It needs redoing every year👌
that engine sounds so good
I have had that 'wonky wheel' thing before, Turned out it was a lower arm that had been replaced with a cheap pattern part, So it could be that or maybe it's had a previous encounter with a kerb.?
many years ago I had an incident at work where I had spilled isocyanate hardener all over myself. took weeks to get it off my skin. I wonder how many years that shaved off my life 😬
I think it is in those spray cans of expanding foam as well, I got that on my hands 22 years ago when attempting to fill in the gaps around a new UPVC window. It also took weeks to come off. Left black stains everywhere!
@@Mymatevince Which is why those DIY foam insulation kits they sell over in the US are a bloody scary thing.