You are a very good example that a human with a brain can do basically anything as long as they are using that brain and have a little bit of perseverance. I am truly in love with this series. Very fascinating to see how somebody with no prior mechanical knowledge solves problems. Very good job Vince you really should be proud of yourself 🙏👍
Sad to hear that these videos aren't doing as well as you were hoping because i'm gripped!! I'm checking every day (after a few days) for a new video in this series, it's soooo good. I hope these will have a long tail though, maybe people will binge watch to catch up
@Breath of Fresh Air i can sort of see what you're saying but for me there is a draw there with the car: It's a Rolls Royce! They can cost hundreds of thousands and even a used one can be in the 10s of thousands. I am looking forward to seeing it done, I wonder if more frequent updates may keep it in the consciousness more?
I've been slowly binge watching, if that is possible, these over the last month. It's fascinating stuff. Some of the episodes could do with more editing, some excising of repetitive stuff etc, but they are still a good watch. It's good to hear someone who isn't mired in expert knowledge, who shares his frustrations and joys over minor problems as well as the 'big fix' stuff. It's real life stuff and fits well with the 'my mate' vibe. It works. I hope he doesn't get discouraged and carries on.
Loving the series atm. Its a shame that its not breaking even but I have to say its been really enjoyable watching this and i hope to see it completed :)
To be fair, I'm not sure even an above normal amount of views would break even for Rolls Royce parts. At least it's not a plane, those o ring kits would be several hundred each.
I think it's the type of series that will grow in popularity once the project is finished. I like seeing how the jobs are looked at and fixed, for many people seeing little bits done without the full fix won't be satisfying. I hope he keeps going with it. I want to see it finished. I dont call myself a youtuber though and I don't make a living from this so what I want to see versus what Vincent has to produce may not be the same thing.
Every 3 minute job is one seized nut away from being 3 days of hell 😱, be patient and try ya tool on the rear pump, hopefully it turns anti-clock, and confirms it’s not reverse threaded, your gonna need a bigger bar 😂, this series is addictive viewing, loving it, good luck Vince 👍
Hi Vince, first of all I love this series. Your approach to problems, the detailed information is what makes you and your channel stand out! I have really learned a lot from you! In your video you talked about the problems of long videos. Unfortunately a common problem, the attention span of many decreases from year to year. I would be happy if you could continue so and not follow the trend - short videos where 10 different advertisers are mentioned that have nothing to do with the channel. Thanks Vince!
You are a brave man Vince. Your perseverance is amazing. My car maintenance ends at picking sweet wrappers from between the seats so watching you tackle those pumps with apparently no way to even get at them is amazing. 👍👍
Scaffolding bar over the end of the breaker bar and have someone lean directly down on top of the nut. Wouldn't put heat on it with that many rubber seals in the viscinity. Another great video, definately getting there!
You are a real inspiration Vince I really enjoy your videos. You inspire me to stay busy You could break the videos down to separate components. And list each component as a separate video for other people who also have this or similar vehicles looking into how the fix 19xx Roslrorce window repair of motor replacement and so on. Could also have companion videos on how tubing works Ferrell sleeve nut and flange and how they work to form a seal. Basic electrical for traces wires. Short and educational. Also look into petrolatum it's similar to Vaseline but designed for lubricating o-rings without causing them to swell.
I really enjoyed this video! But i'm one of them that like longer videos instead of the awful one minute shorts format! I love how these videos are 'honest' in showing all the struggles, this is how it would be if i bought myself a project car. ;) Perhaps look up some of the torque specs for the pumps? It really looked like you put on a lot of force already though. Wow. If it is the original part perhaps it has never been removed and is completely seized in place? Spray it with WD40 or penetrating oil and let it soak perhaps?
Thanks devtty, I read that they can be hard to remove but this one seemed stuck solid. My worry was breaking it completely which could mean the end of the project for me. Thanks for the understanding the struggles, this car is giving me plenty of them 😂👍👍👍
Same here if a video is under 20 minutes I don't normally watch, another UA-camr I watch does 4 hour long live streams several times a week that I try to watch, like a video to watch while washing up doing ironing ech instead of messing about looking for the next one
Hi Vince. The fuel injection is nothing to worry about. It Bosch KA continus fuel injection. The only complication is the unit with the two pipes on it is a warm-up regulator. It reduces fuel pressure when the engine is cold to increase delivery. Warm-up regulators can be a problem, but yours seems to be working okay. When they fail, cold start is difficult. Don't be scared of it.
Not sure it is continuous injection as you have a pipe off the pump for each cylinder. This is more like the old Lucas system. First clue is to see if there is an injector on each cylinder by each spark plug. If yes then it is not continuous. If there are no wires to the injector then it is not electronic but mechanical. The old Lucas one worked by a mechanical pump driven off the cam-shaft which put a pulse of fuel to each injector in turn in the firing order. It worked by building up a fuel pressure in the line until it literally burst and a pop valve on the injector popped open to give a jet of fuel. The caution here is the pump must be aligned like a distributor to ensure the pulse is just at the right time. The mixture is adjusted by altering the fuel pressure from the pump. The higher the pressure the more fuel squirted in before that pop valve closes. These pumps are critical on their position on the engine and the valves inside so certainly be very careful and mark its exact position (within a millimetre) if you have to remove it and do not turn any screws on it until you are certain what they do. As for dismantling the pump…..you are a braver man than me if you do! Nuff said.
I used to work at Mercedes Benz dealer in the 80's this was the injection system of choice. I also have a 1980 MK1 Golf GLi cabriolet which has this fuel injection system. Its Bosch KA fuel injection which is CIS. Under the Rolls Royce cast inlet is a baffle plate which is connected to the metering head. As the throttle is opened the baffle plate moves increasing fuel delivery. The injectors don't have any switching they are steel injector but at the dealer we replaced the injectors with a brass version. To test the metering head was to remove the injectors and put them in 100ml test tubes turn on the ignition. Move the baffle plate to test the delivery was the same for all injectors. To test the warm up regulator you fit gauges between the warm up regulator and the metering head and run the engine from cold you will see a fuel pressure drop. This pressure drop increases fuel delivery when the engine is cold to give a richer mixture. The warm up regulator was a problem so Bosch developed KE CIS injection this removed the warm up regulator and used a electrically operated unit on the side of the metering head to reduce fuel pressure to increase delivery for a cold engine. The fuel pump is by the near side rear wheel as Vince showed in a previous video.
What patience, persistence and intelligent thinking. Good nature shines through as well. I so enjoy watching Vince dissect the endless problems and invariably solve them ( it helps that too have a Spirit, slightly earlier with carburettors)
Great video Vince. I’m sorry to hear that the Rolls series is not making you much money, but I really enjoy watching them. For me the longer the video the better.
Did you check to make sure that the thing you were trying to loosen wasn't reverse threaded? Would be worth a shot. Otherwise, I would try an impact or a cheater bar (pipe over the end of the ratchet). If you have a bad angle on it, grab a longer extension so you can just do horizontal movement instead of angled movement. Heat would risk the seals in that area.
Good work Vince I'm sure future RR owners will find this series useful and hopefully over time it will prove profitable for you. Keep the episodes coming please.
3:47 I genuinely thought that you were pranking us as that rag looked *exactly* like a piece of lettuce. I suppose it's also good news, as your fluid looks very healthy. Which I suppose it should, considering it's nearly all been replaced in the last few episodes - but remembering back to my ATF fluid that was still coming out black after flushing the transmission a few times....
I admire your perseverance. If you want help from a retired RR/Bentley tech (or you don’t, too bad here goes). You must carefully remove and later replace other parts limiting access for many RR repairs. Remove the two pipes going to the pump, supply from the reservoir and pressure out (pipe on top) to the accumulators. Remove the external snap ring and then twist and pull the outer sleeve up off the pump. Remove the two “O” rings on the pump body and the smaller ring on the end of the supply pipe. These parts will be special rings from Flying Spares or other UK dealers. Clean and polish inside of the sleeve and lube it and new rings with fresh correct fluid. Slide sleeve down with slight twist and reinstall snap ring and pipes. Run engine with accumulator internal bleeder valves open to bleed systems. DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE BLEEDERS OR YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES. Your biggest hazard on these cars is CROSS THREADING that can be very hard to correct.
Yes that’s good advice …I spilt the radiator and “did” the core plug on a Ford Orion though negligence not bothering with anti freeze..taught me a lesson (the hard way ) February in London some years ago
Keep up the good work MMV. Sorry for the pithy suggestion but you may want to consider uploading a video where you clear out some of the junk in the car ! It’s driving my OCD up the wall.
If it connects to the engine to operate the pump, I'd think if it was leaking there you would see engine oil instead of mineral oil. So I think just replacing the rubber O-rings was the best move. I'd be very surprised if you could break that pump as the tool seems very hefty. I'd just make sure it's not a reverse thread screw. Sometimes they do that for no good reason it seems! Keep up the great work, Vince! I really enjoy our RR series!!
Roll’s Royce engineering looks amazing.and is perfect ❤ And like all modern cars it is done in layers Almost like a onion 😢 Old and recent cars have not much room under the hood / bonnet I’m at 25 mins in You will win Weather is not good
This series is such a good one. I was feeling nervous for you when trying to use your tool to remove the filter. I do think that you shouldn’t be giving Flying Spares much airtime unless they give you a sponsorship. Have you tried reaching out to them and seeing if they would be interested in helping you with free parts for this project? That way you’ll be getting something to go towards the project without relying 100% on UA-cam revenue. Loving this one and cannot wait for the next vid. Keep it up and I’m sure UA-cam with their algorithm will get something sorted.
If Vince is getting good service from Flying Spares then why not? It would be nice if they could sponsor him. He is clearly a satisfied customer and I would do exactly the same. There are too many cowboys and rip-off merchants out there so we really need to give the good guys who deserve our business a shout out.
21:40 the thing you pionted out is the Warm-up-Regulator. Also the injection system is called a Bosch K-Jetronic. If you ever need help with this system, you should search for Mercedessource on UA-cam. He just uploaded a series, were he talks about diagnosing and repairing the K-Jetronic
Conscientious effort trying to remove that pump (I had my eyes closed during the attempt). You may want to get one of those cheap plastic / rubber pipettes to suck up any spills and some thin plasticard 'collars' will avoid having to use a screwdriver to guide o-rings into position.
I like the series as much as your other videos. When I do something like this, I get frustrated and angry very quickly. You are always calm yourself, that relaxes me every time I watch 😄
The front one was covered with oil & wet I don't think the rear one is leaking It is covered with dirt. But I think fluid is blown back by the engine's fan. My dad is a mechanic, He tells me "you don't fix what isn't broken" because that is the high-pressure line that will snap off then you must fix that too, then you will break the thing it's attached to, and so on...
Seems like a perfect job for an impact wrench, Vince. Get a compressor that'll do 150psi and a nice little pneumatic impact wrench. I find the electric impact wrenches are ok for taking off stubborn bolts off of furniture and the like, but not for cars, you need way more power for that. Fatter hoses and more PSI are your friend there to deliver more power to the nut.
I continue to love this series - I'm always waiting for the notification from UA-cam that there's a new My Mate Vince upload, and always hoping it's the Rolls-Royce. It doesn't quite get a Vince-like "YES!" from me when it appears, but it's close 😄 What a pity about the UA-cam revenue and the preferred video length - I watch very little TV but lots and lots of UA-cam, and I crave longer-form content like this. Hopefully one day the rest of the world will come to its senses. I commend your perseverance and persistence, and massively appreciate your working-through of problems using a combination of research, common sense, logic and experience, and even more so that the structure of your videos demonstrates that - it provides inspiration, hope and encouragement to us all.
Hey Vince Another couple of techniques you might try on stubborn bolts (or other things that thread in etc.) is to try using a heat gun. I don't mean a torch, (not near the engine), but the "hair drier" on steroids type; or perhaps even the heat attachment for your soldering station so you can direct intense heat towards the threaded area, and hopefully "break" any kind of seal via uneven thermal expansion. However, I might be a bit hesitant to introduce a heat source of any kind inside the engine bay. Another technique is to use a heavy rubber (or dead-blow) mallet to "knock" the seal loose. You do this by seating your tool/socket as firmly as you can and attach a "breaker bar", or that long torque wrench you were using before, and orient the bar in an area where you can easily strike the far end of the bar (furthest from the socket) with a good strong strike with the rubber or dead-blow mallet; you need to get a good unimpeded swing with a lot of momentum for this to work best. Now, assuming you are right-handed, close your left hand over-top and around the socket, and press down firmly, and "twist" in the direction you want the bolt to turn, while striking the end of the "breaker bar" with the mallet held in your right hand. This will act kind of like an impact wrench and often will cause stuck things to become unstuck. By pressing down (and perhaps pulling slightly back "Away" from the direction of strike) with your other hand while striking the "breaker-bar" you are creating a pseudo "second pivot point" in the same rotational axis as the socket the stubborn thing is screwed into, and helps to reduce the production of "sideways" forces that might "snap" things off. One other idea you can try would be to get a strong pipe that your "breaker-bar" can be inserted into; or get a long thick piece of strong wood (2x4) and use metal pipe clamps to "clamp" the "Breaker-bar" to one end. Now, I suggest you get someone to help hold the other end (the stubborn pump end) in place, while you go to the end of your pipe or 2x4 and press/pull the far end firmly in the direction you want the pump to rotate. If you have added an additional 2-3 meters of "arm" to your wrench, (and assuming your bar extension is strong enough) one of three things will happen. 1. the pump "seal" will break loose and the pump will loosen off (the most likely outcome) 2. Your "socket" tool will literally split apart, since it cannot withstand that amount of force being exerted upon it; or 3.The pump housing itself will twist off the engine chasis, meaning NO ONE could have loosened it off, and you now have a bigger problem to fix. But, as you said, if the leak is at the bottom of that pump you HAVE to get it loose somehow to fix it, so you are no worse off. Hope this helps. Best C.
If your coolant is clear, there is a big chance it will not be frost proof. Frozen coolant will crack your engine and radiator and such. Best make sure you have this checked/fixed before winter!
Dear Mr. Vince. Maybe try hammering power like you did successfully on those green hydraulic spheres in the trunk. But maybe this time use an impact wrench. Carefully of course because otherwise you may destroy the special tool. Sometimes it also helps losen something if you first turn it a tiny little bit more tight (just to break it lose). Best regards, luck and health to all of you.
Same comment as others, I really enjoy your RR videos. Please take heart that you have number of us that look forward to these particular videos. Cheers.
I had to change my oil filter the other day and it was crazy tight and had a plastic housing. I thought the same, did not want to break anything but in the end thought it had to come off so I soaked it in wd40 and used an extra 3 foot bar on it. Once it moved a bit it was fine, came off with just the spanner. It felt like it was glued on lol, when the seal was broken it came off ok. Did not break anything thank God, made sure the spanner was on properly each time I pulled.
Introcar youtube channel shows you how to remove and replace brake pumps and seals. give it a look maybe?? Anyway, great video Vince. Love to see the car on the road soon.
g`day vince with the castellated nut you bought the special tool for i would look up what the torque setting for the nut is then you will have a idea of how tight it is and how hard you can swing off it and with that 24 mm socket hex on the tool i would expect the torque to be high i would use a high torque impact wrench to shock it lose you might be able to hire 1 but also its a good tool to own for suspension work steering wheel nuts and any tight and rusted hardwear most mechanics use mid torque impact wrenches for every nut and bolt (if accessible) for the speed and tight and rusted fasteners and improved productivity........ hope this helps you out mate cheers james D i find you can threaten the fastener "become loosened or ill get the high torque impact out " it works.......... sometimes lol
For a first effort, I'd go with seal replacement only instead of full pump removal. The back hydraulic pump will require you get that warm-up regulator out of the way (that's the thing with two pipes going in and some wiring connections that you called "part of the fuel injection system"). If it were me, I'd get a crow-foot spanner to remove those pipe fittings.
Hey Vince, personally I actually prefer the longer videos - what I particularly enjoy is the amount of detail, and the way you talk through your thought processes as you work is what makes it for me. This applies to all your videos, not just the Rolls. Just to echo what someone else has said below, you will need to put some anti-freeze in that cooling water soon - not sure what its like down there but here 'up nawf' it's getting well parky - 3.5 degrees this morning. You do not want to have to fit a new radiator, or worse still, get a cracked engine block! I hope the views pick up soon, this channel is amazing and you deserve way more return on the time, effort and money you are investing in it. Cheers, Alan
A little tip for you if I may....When you encounter an annoying leak and you cannot find the source, first clean the area around it (both above and below because vibration can cause a wet surface to creep upward by capillary attraction) then dust with talcum powder or powdered chalk (the dust created by writing on a blackboard with chalk) and then observe. The leak will show up more clearly. With a bit of luck the stream of fluid will show clearly revealing the source, which is what you want to find.. The lighter the fluid the clearer the result. Then clear up any residue with kitchen towel and lighter fuel. Leave for a few minutes for the lighter fuel to evaporate.
Vince i personally love these videos as a mechanic that has never touched a EU car i am sorry that it is not being profitable for you but i hope you continue with it and do more like it as for that pump i would not be surprised if there us lock tight in the threads since it needs to stay put being driven by the engine oh and one more thing i could use some of that lead for my radioactive collection hehe
@breathoffreshair7314you havent got a clue what your waffling on about.this is a great series on what is a great car.most other cars are being covered on youtube but stuff on the spirit is very few and far between.i love this series as i happen to have one of these the same age but in much better condition but it is still very interesting watching.these cars are actually appreciating now.they have a very large following threw out the world.hand built mechanical masterpieces is what they are.oh i drive a top range supercharged jaguar everyday,superb as they are,they just arnt a rolls royce.
Wish a load of viewers to your channel, referring to what you said about too few of them on this series. Heard a quote a while ago, from a broadcaster: It was easier before, cos you could take a look in the TV program guide to see who was your competition. Now, it is totally different. Your competition is everything that is produced, ever.
You should try a pair of those video spectacles, not easy trying to work on a car and positioning a camera at the same time. Wondering if maybe there was just too much hydraulic fluid in there after you refilled it last time.
Maaan that thing does look like a nightmare to work on. I was gonna suggest getting a shop manual, but sounds like you already got one! Idk if you would wanna get one, but an impact wrench/gun (half inch) would probably help to get that (and other) stuck bolt(s) off, just would have to be careful, maybe support the base of where the bolt screws into somehow (clamps maybe, idk ha) so you wouldnt break anything while using it. Does look like a pain tho. Once you are cruising around in that thing, you will be glad you got it all fixed up tho! One thing you can do to keep hoses from leaking once you unhook them, is use a rubber stopper and just use the clamp with a rubber stopper so you can move the hose, without having to clamp those brittle hoses flat.
This is just my opinion and from me having done it before. Using a torque wrench to break a bolt or nut lose is not a good idea. You risk putting more stress on the torque wrench than it's rated for and damaging the internal parts of the wrench. I have a broken torque wrench from doing exactly that, it no longer does it's clicky thing it's supposed to do, also can't turn the part that adjust the torque setting. it would be better to get a bigger ratchet or at the least a breaker bar for breaking nuts and bolts lose.
Vince did say he is using an old defunct torque wrench for exactly this reason. But a 3/4" drive breaker bar is cheap enough and suited to the job. I have on occasion extended mine with a piece of pipe to get the job done. Not on anything delicate though it has to be said.
my smart car v belt just split theres no starter motor on a smart car so if belt goes you cant start car as the belt spins engine to start it and you over heat as the belt also drive water pump ha ho in the garage would of rather payed you to fix you could done video on it
Pardon me for what i will say. Dont want to ruin it for you. But im MAD!! You paid 25 pounds for a repair kit for each pump and they are common o-rings!!! Man im angry. Those orings should be "Viton o-rings" due to them beeing more tolerant to heat amongst other things. Couple of aluminium washers(they could have been copper too)and that guy bought them for 2 pounds and he is reselling them for 50!!! These should cost you 5 pounds max with the store making 500% profit on them.... Please next time just measure the thickness of the o-ring and the inner hole, then get them yourself from your local store. ie o-ring 3x35 (3mm beeing the thickness and 35 the inner hole). If you say it like that the clerk will just ask "how many" If the o-ring is badly compressed measure its thickness from inside-out and bottom-upper side and calculate the average. ie an o-ring measuring 3mm and 4mm thickness used to be a 3.5mm thickness originally. Sorry for me saying these things but im gutted watching you since your first videos. Such an honest man with excellent faultfinding getting ripped off while trying to make ends meet because nowadays viewers only want to watch burnouts of cars or cars on fire on YT. Im am working in a multystore in Greece and if you ever need o-rings, seals, bearings, belts and that sort of things i would gladly help a human out. If customs and postage makes sense ofc.
Might work and might end really bad There are different rubber mixtures making them resistent to different things this ones stands the HSMO Oil the rubber tyres does not You should know that
When you come to engine cleaning you are pre-ECM days so less worry with water on the electrics but in the absence of a hot water jet washer I have found if you can get a wallpaper stripper and use the nozzle end then hot steam will soften the oils and greases. Get yourself some tins of brake cleaner (or carburettor cleaner) and spray it on whilst the area is still hot from steam and it will clean up a treat. A clean engine also lets you see the real source of leaks quickly as well 😂😀
I would take the air box and plenum off (the part you cleaned up with sand paper with the RR logo on it) when working on the engine, it will be easy to remove and will give you much more room to work in the engine bay instead of struggling to work around it. This would have made changing the front accumulators much easier in terms of accessibility. Get yourself ten litres of brake cleaner & a pump sprayer from a motor factor like Euro Car Parts, to find leaks efficiently you first need to completely remove all the leaked fluid & its residue to be able to tell where the leak is coming from. Brake cleaner will allow you to wash the engine down without causing damage and as it evaporates it will leave the engine dry just like IPA. This will make finding the leaks easy, at the moment there is so much residue it is hard to tell where the fluid is coming from. You will be able to locate other leaks at the same time as it will all be fresh fluid on a dry and clean engine. Just change the seals on the brake pumps that you can get to without its removal and see if you have any leaks. If they are still leaking then proceed with trying to remove them, I would hate for you to brake the brake pump or tappet cover and costing yourself a serious amount and by that I mean to fix the damage caused it will make what you have spent so far look like chump change. The brake pump is just very tight in the tappet cover, if I was going to attempt to remove them I would run the engine up to temperature so it is as hot as possible. (engine running for 30 mins at least, bonnet closed) Switch the engine off then de-pressurise the hydraulic system as quickly as possible so the engine is kept as hot as possible and then try to undo the brake pump hopefully the heat generated by the engine will aid its removal. A cheater bar could be needed and if it is get someone to push down on the ratchet pressing the brake pump removal tool castellations down into the castellations on the brake pump as it is easy to slip off the castellations causing damage when you are exerting yourself trying to undo the pump due to tool cocking over. Don't use heat from a blow torch as it will do more damage melting seals and it is to close to other components to be heated effectively without damaging them. Don't use a impact gun either, the brake pump removal tool is not designed to be used with an impact gun, the castellations at the end will shear off from the blows the impact gun delivers. These brake pumps generate pressures of 2500 psi and above so as always when working on the hydraulic system make sure it is de-pressurised first.
Thanks Master Mech, truth be told I was waiting for your comments. Will the brake cleaner be likely to damage any of the seals designed for the LHM fluid. Also once washed away will it kill the hedge/grass/wildlife. I have been told about it in earlier episodes but I'm reluctant to use it just in case (hence the time consuming wiping with the wet wipes). Apparently, the big O rings that I changed on the brake pump are the ones responsible for the leaks. The bottom metal washer and o ring that I couldn't change will allow LHM fluid down to the oil sump if leaking so I might be OK there. I presume is the hydraulic fluid reservoirs are going down without a visible leak then it means it is working its way in the sump. As always thanks for the detailed comments and help 👌👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince I would not spray brake cleaner directly into the hydraulic system but the very small amount that could enter the system when washing the engine down will not do any harm, it will just evaporate. Yes brake cleaner will kill the hedge, grass etc if you spray it directly on them or pour it in the soil which you wont be doing. I would put a tarpaulin down and then your bowls to catch as much as possible, remember its also going to be carrying all the oil it has removed from the engine. I have a large metal tray to catch all manner of fluids from anti freeze to brake fluid. If a small amount gets on the tarpaulin it will again just evaporate and you will be left with the oil residue. Just need to make sure it does not run off onto your dads lawn, buy a small aerosol can of brake and clutch cleaner and see what it is like. This is the most expensive way to buy it but for testing it purposes its worth the extra cost. You will see how it evaporates and removes oil/grease, just try cleaning a small area first to see what happens then you can think about how you will tackle a larger area as you will know what to expect. I would say it is just the O rings that you have replaced on the first pump in this video are the ones responsible for all the LHM fluid leaking into the valley of the engine that you soaked up with all the paper towel. Oil likes to spread so even a small amount can seem like a lot when you are cleaning it up. I would still just replace the O rings, bleed the system and run it. The reservoir level gauges will be your guide if you have any further leaks, I know those gauges that tell you the fluid level can jamb/stick giving you a false readings so worth making sure they are clean and free to operate. If you are still losing fluid then it is either going into the sump like you say or you have another leak elsewhere, the valve under the car near the drivers pedal box was leaking wasn't it? Worth taking another look if you are still losing fluid after changing the O rings.
@@Mymatevince Forgot to mention I know you have no choice for some parts as they are Roll Royce specific but for consumables like the LHM fluid a motor factor like Euro Cars Parts will sell it much cheaper price as Flying Spares will be heavily marking these items up.
@@APSuk2 Thanks MM, I will start with a spray can like you mentioned and then I will know what I am dealing with. As always cheers for the invaluable advice on ALL matters 🙏👍👍
Another interesting video Vince. I think you will have enough material with that old bus for several years worth of videos! The price of Rolls parts is eye watering. Good luck.
Well Vince that was a real pain. Such a shame that the special tool didn’t work. I really thought that would break. It’s probably been done up with a pneumatic gun. Let’s hope you can get to the other one and the leaking stops. Great work though. Cheers Graham
Vince do you think that the new tool was being turned the wrong way?? So it was being tightened ? Just love you rolls videos. By the way there are NO ROLLS-ROYCE,'S JUST ROLLS ROYCE NO MATTER HOW MANY THERE ARE.. BUT MY MATE VINCE keep up the Rolls video please. Sorry they don't get bigger following they deserve too. Peter T Wales UK
I'm not familiar with UK vehicles but we usually pump the brakes hold the pedal down to bleed the Hydraulic fluid, another thing is you should clean the fluid off the engine and add a florescent dye in the fuild then use a black light to find the leak
@@peepiepo Impact sockets are more durable. I don't think using one here would be a big deal since the seal should break well before the metal, especially because Vince doesn't have a heavy-duty shop impact. I think he just has a battery powered one.
maybe it would be a good idea to take off your ring and watch before poking around where there may be electrical connectors. I enjoy your videos and your explanations!
Even though your not a mechanic and you try and do it logically you alway get some sort of result and solve the issue. Atleast you are saving money doing it yourself love the video's and thanks for the entertainment.
Ahhh mate - I was tensing up myself when you were trying to release the pump! Maybe get a breaker bar, they usually have longer arms to apply more torque.
Hi Vince it's only people with the attention span of a Goldfish that like the three minute reels lol. Keep the RR Videos coming mate the Die Hards love them. Mick 👍🍻
I'm a non mechanic, but someone once told me that sustained force on a bolt (with a spanner etc) will generate heat making it even more stuck. They advocated one sharp rap to take the bolt by surprise (as it were).
Oh Vince, I can see that the Rols is giving you more and more grey hair. I hope the next job is much more easy. Btw next tine something won't budge, try some WD40 + a Impact screwdriver.
I've just brought a mini clubman estate to restore so I can do you a good deal on buckets of rust ....I always mark bolts with tippex if they have to be undone a set amount.
Connect an impact wrench to the socket (at a low torque setting to begin with) and hit it in both directions. Gradually (and carefully) increase the torque until it breaks free.
Yes, but you can double your luck. Because the pump is on the block then first start the engine and get it hot (full running temp) then impact but not an impact gun as these are limited in force. Two person job. Put on the socket and bar then one person load up the bar by pulling as hard as possible then bang down on the extension bar from socket to wrench using a lump hammer or heavier (could almost use a sledge hammer!). If the pump has been in place for 40 years it will be well and truly stuck)
You will not break the pump but possibly the tool Not nessesery to pump the brakes You do have the 2 internal bleed screws The pumps normally sitts hard so bent tools are common If the little inner o-ring leaks the Hydraulic fluid will leak down in to the oil sump The two big o-rings will cure the visible leak A good idea would e to remove Your clock working on the car even if You are carefully are turning the battery off You are skilled and talented
Thanks Burnotto, it is information like this that I can't find on the internet. Hopefully then the leak will be fixed. Do you have one of these cars or have you worked on them in the past? Cheers, Vince 👌👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince I hae mostly worked on Silver Shadow as authorized R-R Mechanic I do have a Bentley S3 Yes I have worked on Silver Spirit but not that much I was selling spare parts also
shame these arent getting more likes but then you dont have any shouty bellends and i for one am eternally grateful for that.....keep up the good work and maybe invest in a good strong breaker bar mind you my bum would have been nipping at the thought of breaking either the pump or the tool also
I don't mean this in a negative way,but isn't it better to clean the car up a bit. I cant work in a chaotic place where all parts are laying around. Again i don't meant this in a negative way. I enjoy your video's and that's why I'm making this comment 😉
I'm getting horrible flashbacks from back when I had a used car. It was such a nightmare. I was constantly having to replace one thing or another and didn't have money so I was always doing the work myself.
You are a very good example that a human with a brain can do basically anything as long as they are using that brain and have a little bit of perseverance. I am truly in love with this series. Very fascinating to see how somebody with no prior mechanical knowledge solves problems. Very good job Vince you really should be proud of yourself 🙏👍
Thank you DG 🙏👍👍
Great comment. Totally agree
Sad to hear that these videos aren't doing as well as you were hoping because i'm gripped!! I'm checking every day (after a few days) for a new video in this series, it's soooo good. I hope these will have a long tail though, maybe people will binge watch to catch up
@Breath of Fresh Air i can sort of see what you're saying but for me there is a draw there with the car: It's a Rolls Royce! They can cost hundreds of thousands and even a used one can be in the 10s of thousands.
I am looking forward to seeing it done, I wonder if more frequent updates may keep it in the consciousness more?
@Breath of Fresh Air I'm not confused about the age/value of the car, we just disagree on whether that's interesting or not. I think it very much is!
I've been slowly binge watching, if that is possible, these over the last month. It's fascinating stuff. Some of the episodes could do with more editing, some excising of repetitive stuff etc, but they are still a good watch. It's good to hear someone who isn't mired in expert knowledge, who shares his frustrations and joys over minor problems as well as the 'big fix' stuff. It's real life stuff and fits well with the 'my mate' vibe. It works. I hope he doesn't get discouraged and carries on.
Loving the series atm. Its a shame that its not breaking even but I have to say its been really enjoyable watching this and i hope to see it completed :)
What's the timestamp when he talks about that? I must have missed it.
@@meganduric9898 24:10
@@frazer26 you legend.
To be fair, I'm not sure even an above normal amount of views would break even for Rolls Royce parts. At least it's not a plane, those o ring kits would be several hundred each.
I think it's the type of series that will grow in popularity once the project is finished. I like seeing how the jobs are looked at and fixed, for many people seeing little bits done without the full fix won't be satisfying. I hope he keeps going with it. I want to see it finished. I dont call myself a youtuber though and I don't make a living from this so what I want to see versus what Vincent has to produce may not be the same thing.
Every 3 minute job is one seized nut away from being 3 days of hell 😱, be patient and try ya tool on the rear pump, hopefully it turns anti-clock, and confirms it’s not reverse threaded, your gonna need a bigger bar 😂, this series is addictive viewing, loving it, good luck Vince 👍
Hi Vince, first of all I love this series. Your approach to problems, the detailed information is what makes you and your channel stand out! I have really learned a lot from you!
In your video you talked about the problems of long videos. Unfortunately a common problem, the attention span of many decreases from year to year. I would be happy if you could continue so and not follow the trend - short videos where 10 different advertisers are mentioned that have nothing to do with the channel.
Thanks Vince!
You are a brave man Vince. Your perseverance is amazing. My car maintenance ends at picking sweet wrappers from between the seats so watching you tackle those pumps with apparently no way to even get at them is amazing. 👍👍
Scaffolding bar over the end of the breaker bar and have someone lean directly down on top of the nut. Wouldn't put heat on it with that many rubber seals in the viscinity. Another great video, definately getting there!
21:50 that’s my entire life with ‘fixing’ cars. Still, we live and learn huh?
Keep up the good work and, as always, stay safe!
You are a real inspiration Vince I really enjoy your videos. You inspire me to stay busy
You could break the videos down to separate components. And list each component as a separate video for other people who also have this or similar vehicles looking into how the fix 19xx Roslrorce window repair of motor replacement and so on. Could also have companion videos on how tubing works Ferrell sleeve nut and flange and how they work to form a seal. Basic electrical for traces wires. Short and educational. Also look into petrolatum it's similar to Vaseline but designed for lubricating o-rings without causing them to swell.
I really enjoyed this video! But i'm one of them that like longer videos instead of the awful one minute shorts format!
I love how these videos are 'honest' in showing all the struggles, this is how it would be if i bought myself a project car. ;)
Perhaps look up some of the torque specs for the pumps? It really looked like you put on a lot of force already though. Wow.
If it is the original part perhaps it has never been removed and is completely seized in place? Spray it with WD40 or penetrating oil and let it soak perhaps?
Thanks devtty, I read that they can be hard to remove but this one seemed stuck solid. My worry was breaking it completely which could mean the end of the project for me. Thanks for the understanding the struggles, this car is giving me plenty of them 😂👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Is it definitely anticlockwise to undo the pump ?
@@travisash8180 I believe so Travis, I tried to go the other way albeit using not as much force and it seemed stuck fast in both directions👍
Love the videos, and I LOVE the longer videos, so much better than the shorts.
Same here if a video is under 20 minutes I don't normally watch, another UA-camr I watch does 4 hour long live streams several times a week that I try to watch, like a video to watch while washing up doing ironing ech instead of messing about looking for the next one
Incredibly helpful info on replacing the o-rings on the brake pump. I am thoroughly enjoying your series. Thanks so much!
I like your RR series. I came to your channel because of it. It's interesting to see a non-car guy tackle this mechanical masterpiece.
Hi Vince.
The fuel injection is nothing to worry about. It Bosch KA continus fuel injection. The only complication is the unit with the two pipes on it is a warm-up regulator. It reduces fuel pressure when the engine is cold to increase delivery. Warm-up regulators can be a problem, but yours seems to be working okay. When they fail, cold start is difficult. Don't be scared of it.
Not sure it is continuous injection as you have a pipe off the pump for each cylinder. This is more like the old Lucas system. First clue is to see if there is an injector on each cylinder by each spark plug. If yes then it is not continuous. If there are no wires to the injector then it is not electronic but mechanical. The old Lucas one worked by a mechanical pump driven off the cam-shaft which put a pulse of fuel to each injector in turn in the firing order. It worked by building up a fuel pressure in the line until it literally burst and a pop valve on the injector popped open to give a jet of fuel. The caution here is the pump must be aligned like a distributor to ensure the pulse is just at the right time. The mixture is adjusted by altering the fuel pressure from the pump. The higher the pressure the more fuel squirted in before that pop valve closes. These pumps are critical on their position on the engine and the valves inside so certainly be very careful and mark its exact position (within a millimetre) if you have to remove it and do not turn any screws on it until you are certain what they do. As for dismantling the pump…..you are a braver man than me if you do! Nuff said.
I used to work at Mercedes Benz dealer in the 80's this was the injection system of choice. I also have a 1980 MK1 Golf GLi cabriolet which has this fuel injection system. Its Bosch KA fuel injection which is CIS. Under the Rolls Royce cast inlet is a baffle plate which is connected to the metering head. As the throttle is opened the baffle plate moves increasing fuel delivery. The injectors don't have any switching they are steel injector but at the dealer we replaced the injectors with a brass version. To test the metering head was to remove the injectors and put them in 100ml test tubes turn on the ignition. Move the baffle plate to test the delivery was the same for all injectors. To test the warm up regulator you fit gauges between the warm up regulator and the metering head and run the engine from cold you will see a fuel pressure drop. This pressure drop increases fuel delivery when the engine is cold to give a richer mixture. The warm up regulator was a problem so Bosch developed KE CIS injection this removed the warm up regulator and used a electrically operated unit on the side of the metering head to reduce fuel pressure to increase delivery for a cold engine. The fuel pump is by the near side rear wheel as Vince showed in a previous video.
Vince, if you haven't got Antifreeze in the water, you need to sort that before winter sets in. Big bills if you end up with frozen water.
What patience, persistence and intelligent thinking. Good nature shines through as well. I so enjoy watching Vince dissect the endless problems and invariably solve them ( it helps that too have a Spirit, slightly earlier with carburettors)
Great video Vince. I’m sorry to hear that the Rolls series is not making you much money, but I really enjoy watching them. For me the longer the video the better.
Did you check to make sure that the thing you were trying to loosen wasn't reverse threaded? Would be worth a shot. Otherwise, I would try an impact or a cheater bar (pipe over the end of the ratchet). If you have a bad angle on it, grab a longer extension so you can just do horizontal movement instead of angled movement. Heat would risk the seals in that area.
Good work Vince I'm sure future RR owners will find this series useful and hopefully over time it will prove profitable for you. Keep the episodes coming please.
Learning so much. Shame about the pump, but remember that anything you fix is one less thing that is wrong
3:47 I genuinely thought that you were pranking us as that rag looked *exactly* like a piece of lettuce. I suppose it's also good news, as your fluid looks very healthy. Which I suppose it should, considering it's nearly all been replaced in the last few episodes - but remembering back to my ATF fluid that was still coming out black after flushing the transmission a few times....
Haha, yes you're right it does!
I admire your perseverance. If you want help from a retired RR/Bentley tech (or you don’t, too bad here goes). You must carefully remove and later replace other parts limiting access for many RR repairs. Remove the two pipes going to the pump, supply from the reservoir and pressure out (pipe on top) to the accumulators. Remove the external snap ring and then twist and pull the outer sleeve up off the pump. Remove the two “O” rings on the pump body and the smaller ring on the end of the supply pipe. These parts will be special rings from Flying Spares or other UK dealers. Clean and polish inside of the sleeve and lube it and new rings with fresh correct fluid. Slide sleeve down with slight twist and reinstall snap ring and pipes. Run engine with accumulator internal bleeder valves open to bleed systems.
DO NOT FORGET TO CLOSE BLEEDERS OR YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES.
Your biggest hazard on these cars is CROSS THREADING that can be very hard to correct.
Thanks Dog Man👌
Maybe advisable to drain cooling system for winter if it's clear and have no anti-freeze. 🤔
Yes that’s good advice …I spilt the radiator and “did” the core plug on a Ford Orion though negligence not bothering with anti freeze..taught me a lesson (the hard way ) February in London some years ago
Yes! I had such experience with a car that the previous owner topped up the coolant with water instead of prestone.
Keep up the good work MMV. Sorry for the pithy suggestion but you may want to consider uploading a video where you clear out some of the junk in the car ! It’s driving my OCD up the wall.
Please don't stop making long videos, I really enjoy them.
If it connects to the engine to operate the pump, I'd think if it was leaking there you would see engine oil instead of mineral oil. So I think just replacing the rubber O-rings was the best move. I'd be very surprised if you could break that pump as the tool seems very hefty. I'd just make sure it's not a reverse thread screw. Sometimes they do that for no good reason it seems! Keep up the great work, Vince! I really enjoy our RR series!!
Roll’s Royce engineering looks amazing.and is perfect ❤
And like all modern cars it is done in layers
Almost like a onion 😢
Old and recent cars have not much room under the hood / bonnet
I’m at 25 mins in
You will win
Weather is not good
This series is such a good one. I was feeling nervous for you when trying to use your tool to remove the filter.
I do think that you shouldn’t be giving Flying Spares much airtime unless they give you a sponsorship. Have you tried reaching out to them and seeing if they would be interested in helping you with free parts for this project? That way you’ll be getting something to go towards the project without relying 100% on UA-cam revenue.
Loving this one and cannot wait for the next vid. Keep it up and I’m sure UA-cam with their algorithm will get something sorted.
If Vince is getting good service from Flying Spares then why not? It would be nice if they could sponsor him. He is clearly a satisfied customer and I would do exactly the same. There are too many cowboys and rip-off merchants out there so we really need to give the good guys who deserve our business a shout out.
Another Rolls Royce video. This is the vehicle that keeps on giving! This Thanksgiving I’m grateful for this train wreck of a car.
21:40 the thing you pionted out is the Warm-up-Regulator. Also the injection system is called a Bosch K-Jetronic. If you ever need help with this system, you should search for Mercedessource on UA-cam. He just uploaded a series, were he talks about diagnosing and repairing the K-Jetronic
Conscientious effort trying to remove that pump (I had my eyes closed during the attempt). You may want to get one of those cheap plastic / rubber pipettes to suck up any spills and some thin plasticard 'collars' will avoid having to use a screwdriver to guide o-rings into position.
I like the series as much as your other videos. When I do something like this, I get frustrated and angry very quickly.
You are always calm yourself, that relaxes me every time I watch 😄
The front one was covered with oil & wet I don't think the rear one is leaking It is covered with dirt. But I think fluid is blown back by the engine's fan. My dad is a mechanic, He tells me "you don't fix what isn't broken" because that is the high-pressure line that will snap off then you must fix that too, then you will break the thing it's attached to, and so on...
Seems like a perfect job for an impact wrench, Vince. Get a compressor that'll do 150psi and a nice little pneumatic impact wrench. I find the electric impact wrenches are ok for taking off stubborn bolts off of furniture and the like, but not for cars, you need way more power for that. Fatter hoses and more PSI are your friend there to deliver more power to the nut.
I continue to love this series - I'm always waiting for the notification from UA-cam that there's a new My Mate Vince upload, and always hoping it's the Rolls-Royce. It doesn't quite get a Vince-like "YES!" from me when it appears, but it's close 😄 What a pity about the UA-cam revenue and the preferred video length - I watch very little TV but lots and lots of UA-cam, and I crave longer-form content like this. Hopefully one day the rest of the world will come to its senses.
I commend your perseverance and persistence, and massively appreciate your working-through of problems using a combination of research, common sense, logic and experience, and even more so that the structure of your videos demonstrates that - it provides inspiration, hope and encouragement to us all.
🙏👍
Keep up the videos I love watching your fix it videos especially if something goes wrong I look forward to seeing you have posted a rolls Royce vid 👍🏼
Hey Vince
Another couple of techniques you might try on stubborn bolts (or other things that thread in etc.) is to try using a heat gun. I don't mean a torch, (not near the engine), but the "hair drier" on steroids type; or perhaps even the heat attachment for your soldering station so you can direct intense heat towards the threaded area, and hopefully "break" any kind of seal via uneven thermal expansion. However, I might be a bit hesitant to introduce a heat source of any kind inside the engine bay.
Another technique is to use a heavy rubber (or dead-blow) mallet to "knock" the seal loose.
You do this by seating your tool/socket as firmly as you can and attach a "breaker bar", or that long torque wrench you were using before, and orient the bar in an area where you can easily strike the far end of the bar (furthest from the socket) with a good strong strike with the rubber or dead-blow mallet; you need to get a good unimpeded swing with a lot of momentum for this to work best. Now, assuming you are right-handed, close your left hand over-top and around the socket, and press down firmly, and "twist" in the direction you want the bolt to turn, while striking the end of the "breaker bar" with the mallet held in your right hand. This will act kind of like an impact wrench and often will cause stuck things to become unstuck. By pressing down (and perhaps pulling slightly back "Away" from the direction of strike) with your other hand while striking the "breaker-bar" you are creating a pseudo "second pivot point" in the same rotational axis as the socket the stubborn thing is screwed into, and helps to reduce the production of "sideways" forces that might "snap" things off.
One other idea you can try would be to get a strong pipe that your "breaker-bar" can be inserted into; or get a long thick piece of strong wood (2x4) and use metal pipe clamps to "clamp" the "Breaker-bar" to one end. Now, I suggest you get someone to help hold the other end (the stubborn pump end) in place, while you go to the end of your pipe or 2x4 and press/pull the far end firmly in the direction you want the pump to rotate. If you have added an additional 2-3 meters of "arm" to your wrench, (and assuming your bar extension is strong enough) one of three things will happen. 1. the pump "seal" will break loose and the pump will loosen off (the most likely outcome) 2. Your "socket" tool will literally split apart, since it cannot withstand that amount of force being exerted upon it; or 3.The pump housing itself will twist off the engine chasis, meaning NO ONE could have loosened it off, and you now have a bigger problem to fix. But, as you said, if the leak is at the bottom of that pump you HAVE to get it loose somehow to fix it, so you are no worse off.
Hope this helps.
Best
C.
If your coolant is clear, there is a big chance it will not be frost proof. Frozen coolant will crack your engine and radiator and such. Best make sure you have this checked/fixed before winter!
Rough go at this one, definitely a bit of a nightmare. Looking forward to part 30.
Thanks Shawn, I'll release that later in the week over on Patreon 👍👍👍
Dear Mr. Vince.
Maybe try hammering power like you did successfully on those green hydraulic spheres in the trunk. But maybe this time use an impact wrench. Carefully of course because otherwise you may destroy the special tool. Sometimes it also helps losen something if you first turn it a tiny little bit more tight (just to break it lose).
Best regards, luck and health to all of you.
Same comment as others, I really enjoy your RR videos. Please take heart that you have number of us that look forward to these particular videos. Cheers.
Love this series. Sad to hear it's not getting the views.
You're doing a great job on the rolls loving the videos on it keep up the great work vince.
Thanks Steve 👍
I had to change my oil filter the other day and it was crazy tight and had a plastic housing. I thought the same, did not want to break anything but in the end thought it had to come off so I soaked it in wd40 and used an extra 3 foot bar on it. Once it moved a bit it was fine, came off with just the spanner. It felt like it was glued on lol, when the seal was broken it came off ok. Did not break anything thank God, made sure the spanner was on properly each time I pulled.
I am pretty sure that the rear suspension did rise up, but it would easier to just measure the wheel arch height from the ground with a tape measure.
Shame you're not getting the views. I've been loving this series so far and hope it continues for a long time.
Introcar youtube channel shows you how to remove and replace brake pumps and seals. give it a look maybe?? Anyway, great video Vince. Love to see the car on the road soon.
g`day vince with the castellated nut you bought the special tool for i would look up what the torque setting for the nut is then you will have a idea of how tight it is and how hard you can swing off it and with that 24 mm socket hex on the tool i would expect the torque to be high i would use a high torque impact wrench to shock it lose you might be able to hire 1 but also its a good tool to own for suspension work steering wheel nuts and any tight and rusted hardwear most mechanics use mid torque impact wrenches for every nut and bolt (if accessible) for the speed and tight and rusted fasteners and improved productivity........ hope this helps you out mate
cheers
james D
i find you can threaten the fastener "become loosened or ill get the high torque impact out " it works.......... sometimes lol
For a first effort, I'd go with seal replacement only instead of full pump removal. The back hydraulic pump will require you get that warm-up regulator out of the way (that's the thing with two pipes going in and some wiring connections that you called "part of the fuel injection system"). If it were me, I'd get a crow-foot spanner to remove those pipe fittings.
Vince, with something tight like this, it usually helps to introduce some shock to break it free whilst under tension. Just a thought. Good luck
Hey Vince, personally I actually prefer the longer videos - what I particularly enjoy is the amount of detail, and the way you talk through your thought processes as you work is what makes it for me. This applies to all your videos, not just the Rolls. Just to echo what someone else has said below, you will need to put some anti-freeze in that cooling water soon - not sure what its like down there but here 'up nawf' it's getting well parky - 3.5 degrees this morning. You do not want to have to fit a new radiator, or worse still, get a cracked engine block! I hope the views pick up soon, this channel is amazing and you deserve way more return on the time, effort and money you are investing in it. Cheers, Alan
really loving this series mate shame people dont like learning or enjoying bringing an old tank back onto the road! Cheers Mate keep up the good work!
A little tip for you if I may....When you encounter an annoying leak and you cannot find the source, first clean the area around it (both above and below because vibration can cause a wet surface to creep upward by capillary attraction) then dust with talcum powder or powdered chalk (the dust created by writing on a blackboard with chalk) and then observe. The leak will show up more clearly. With a bit of luck the stream of fluid will show clearly revealing the source, which is what you want to find.. The lighter the fluid the clearer the result. Then clear up any residue with kitchen towel and lighter fuel. Leave for a few minutes for the lighter fuel to evaporate.
Kitchen roll is a new term for a paper towel. Love your videos Vince! They have inspired me and helped me to learn to fix things myself.
Kitchen roll, from the kitchen vs bog roll... from not the kitchen :D
In Germany that's exactly how we call it 🤷
Also here in Denmark
A bit like toilet roll, KITCHEN ROLL, despite being two different qualities of paper.
Vince i personally love these videos as a mechanic that has never touched a EU car i am sorry that it is not being profitable for you but i hope you continue with it and do more like it as for that pump i would not be surprised if there us lock tight in the threads since it needs to stay put being driven by the engine oh and one more thing i could use some of that lead for my radioactive collection hehe
@breathoffreshair7314you havent got a clue what your waffling on about.this is a great series on what is a great car.most other cars are being covered on youtube but stuff on the spirit is very few and far between.i love this series as i happen to have one of these the same age but in much better condition but it is still very interesting watching.these cars are actually appreciating now.they have a very large following threw out the world.hand built mechanical masterpieces is what they are.oh i drive a top range supercharged jaguar everyday,superb as they are,they just arnt a rolls royce.
Wish a load of viewers to your channel, referring to what you said about too few of them on this series. Heard a quote a while ago, from a broadcaster: It was easier before, cos you could take a look in the TV program guide to see who was your competition. Now, it is totally different. Your competition is everything that is produced, ever.
I really enjoy these uploads, I was waiting for another car one from you Vince 😀
You should try a pair of those video spectacles, not easy trying to work on a car and positioning a camera at the same time. Wondering if maybe there was just too much hydraulic fluid in there after you refilled it last time.
Maaan that thing does look like a nightmare to work on. I was gonna suggest getting a shop manual, but sounds like you already got one! Idk if you would wanna get one, but an impact wrench/gun (half inch) would probably help to get that (and other) stuck bolt(s) off, just would have to be careful, maybe support the base of where the bolt screws into somehow (clamps maybe, idk ha) so you wouldnt break anything while using it. Does look like a pain tho. Once you are cruising around in that thing, you will be glad you got it all fixed up tho!
One thing you can do to keep hoses from leaking once you unhook them, is use a rubber stopper and just use the clamp with a rubber stopper so you can move the hose, without having to clamp those brittle hoses flat.
This is just my opinion and from me having done it before. Using a torque wrench to break a bolt or nut lose is not a good idea. You risk putting more stress on the torque wrench than it's rated for and damaging the internal parts of the wrench. I have a broken torque wrench from doing exactly that, it no longer does it's clicky thing it's supposed to do, also can't turn the part that adjust the torque setting. it would be better to get a bigger ratchet or at the least a breaker bar for breaking nuts and bolts lose.
Vince did say he is using an old defunct torque wrench for exactly this reason. But a 3/4" drive breaker bar is cheap enough and suited to the job. I have on occasion extended mine with a piece of pipe to get the job done. Not on anything delicate though it has to be said.
besides all that - a torque wrench is too spongy for the job. You need a good clean hit to get something to break free. Can't be afraid.
@@Drew-Dastardly I have to admit i might have missed that part because i did skip ahead a few times.
@@djmips That is a point i forgot about as well but so true.
great video Vince :) keep them coming :) we now need to see a working road worthy rolls :)
well done vince what a job
my smart car v belt just split theres no starter motor on a smart car so if belt goes you cant start car as the belt spins engine to start it and you over heat as the belt also drive water pump ha ho in the garage would of rather payed you to fix you could done video on it
35:51 Can we all start a gofundme to crowdfund Vince some new gloves?
Pardon me for what i will say. Dont want to ruin it for you. But im MAD!!
You paid 25 pounds for a repair kit for each pump and they are common o-rings!!! Man im angry.
Those orings should be "Viton o-rings" due to them beeing more tolerant to heat amongst other things.
Couple of aluminium washers(they could have been copper too)and that guy bought them for 2 pounds and he is reselling them for 50!!! These should cost you 5 pounds max with the store making 500% profit on them....
Please next time just measure the thickness of the o-ring and the inner hole, then get them yourself from your local store.
ie o-ring 3x35 (3mm beeing the thickness and 35 the inner hole). If you say it like that the clerk will just ask "how many"
If the o-ring is badly compressed measure its thickness from inside-out and bottom-upper side and calculate the average. ie an o-ring measuring 3mm and 4mm thickness used to be a 3.5mm thickness originally.
Sorry for me saying these things but im gutted watching you since your first videos. Such an honest man with excellent faultfinding getting ripped off while trying to make ends meet because nowadays viewers only want to watch burnouts of cars or cars on fire on YT.
Im am working in a multystore in Greece and if you ever need o-rings, seals, bearings, belts and that sort of things i would gladly help a human out. If customs and postage makes sense ofc.
Might work and might end really bad
There are different rubber mixtures making them resistent to different things this ones stands the HSMO Oil the rubber tyres does not You should know that
When you come to engine cleaning you are pre-ECM days so less worry with water on the electrics but in the absence of a hot water jet washer I have found if you can get a wallpaper stripper and use the nozzle end then hot steam will soften the oils and greases. Get yourself some tins of brake cleaner (or carburettor cleaner) and spray it on whilst the area is still hot from steam and it will clean up a treat. A clean engine also lets you see the real source of leaks quickly as well 😂😀
I would take the air box and plenum off (the part you cleaned up with sand paper with the RR logo on it) when working on the engine, it will be easy to remove and will give you much more room to work in the engine bay instead of struggling to work around it.
This would have made changing the front accumulators much easier in terms of accessibility.
Get yourself ten litres of brake cleaner & a pump sprayer from a motor factor like Euro Car Parts, to find leaks efficiently you first need to completely remove all the leaked fluid & its residue to be able to tell where the leak is coming from.
Brake cleaner will allow you to wash the engine down without causing damage and as it evaporates it will leave the engine dry just like IPA.
This will make finding the leaks easy, at the moment there is so much residue it is hard to tell where the fluid is coming from. You will be able to locate other leaks at the same time as it will all be fresh fluid on a dry and clean engine.
Just change the seals on the brake pumps that you can get to without its removal and see if you have any leaks.
If they are still leaking then proceed with trying to remove them, I would hate for you to brake the brake pump or tappet cover and costing yourself a serious amount and by that I mean to fix the damage caused it will make what you have spent so far look like chump change.
The brake pump is just very tight in the tappet cover, if I was going to attempt to remove them I would run the engine up to temperature so it is as hot as possible. (engine running for 30 mins at least, bonnet closed)
Switch the engine off then de-pressurise the hydraulic system as quickly as possible so the engine is kept as hot as possible and then try to undo the brake pump hopefully the heat generated by the engine will aid its removal.
A cheater bar could be needed and if it is get someone to push down on the ratchet pressing the brake pump removal tool castellations down into the castellations on the brake pump as it is easy to slip off the castellations causing damage when you are exerting yourself trying to undo the pump due to tool cocking over.
Don't use heat from a blow torch as it will do more damage melting seals and it is to close to other components to be heated effectively without damaging them.
Don't use a impact gun either, the brake pump removal tool is not designed to be used with an impact gun, the castellations at the end will shear off from the blows the impact gun delivers.
These brake pumps generate pressures of 2500 psi and above so as always when working on the hydraulic system make sure it is de-pressurised first.
Thanks Master Mech, truth be told I was waiting for your comments. Will the brake cleaner be likely to damage any of the seals designed for the LHM fluid. Also once washed away will it kill the hedge/grass/wildlife. I have been told about it in earlier episodes but I'm reluctant to use it just in case (hence the time consuming wiping with the wet wipes).
Apparently, the big O rings that I changed on the brake pump are the ones responsible for the leaks. The bottom metal washer and o ring that I couldn't change will allow LHM fluid down to the oil sump if leaking so I might be OK there. I presume is the hydraulic fluid reservoirs are going down without a visible leak then it means it is working its way in the sump.
As always thanks for the detailed comments and help 👌👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince I would not spray brake cleaner directly into the hydraulic system but the very small amount that could enter the system when washing the engine down will not do any harm, it will just evaporate.
Yes brake cleaner will kill the hedge, grass etc if you spray it directly on them or pour it in the soil which you wont be doing.
I would put a tarpaulin down and then your bowls to catch as much as possible, remember its also going to be carrying all the oil it has removed from the engine.
I have a large metal tray to catch all manner of fluids from anti freeze to brake fluid. If a small amount gets on the tarpaulin it will again just evaporate and you will be left with the oil residue.
Just need to make sure it does not run off onto your dads lawn, buy a small aerosol can of brake and clutch cleaner and see what it is like. This is the most expensive way to buy it but for testing it purposes its worth the extra cost.
You will see how it evaporates and removes oil/grease, just try cleaning a small area first to see what happens then you can think about how you will tackle a larger area as you will know what to expect.
I would say it is just the O rings that you have replaced on the first pump in this video are the ones responsible for all the LHM fluid leaking into the valley of the engine that you soaked up with all the paper towel. Oil likes to spread so even a small amount can seem like a lot when you are cleaning it up.
I would still just replace the O rings, bleed the system and run it. The reservoir level gauges will be your guide if you have any further leaks, I know those gauges that tell you the fluid level can jamb/stick giving you a false readings so worth making sure they are clean and free to operate.
If you are still losing fluid then it is either going into the sump like you say or you have another leak elsewhere, the valve under the car near the drivers pedal box was leaking wasn't it? Worth taking another look if you are still losing fluid after changing the O rings.
@@Mymatevince Forgot to mention I know you have no choice for some parts as they are Roll Royce specific but for consumables like the LHM fluid a motor factor like Euro Cars Parts will sell it much cheaper price as Flying Spares will be heavily marking these items up.
@@APSuk2 Thanks MM, I will start with a spray can like you mentioned and then I will know what I am dealing with. As always cheers for the invaluable advice on ALL matters 🙏👍👍
I don't know why you don't strip the top of the engine down to be able to see the problem. You make life so difficult with all those parts in the way
I’m currently dealing with a spark plug broken off in a head 😅….. Love me some RR videos!
I feel for you!!!!! Is it an aluminium head?
@@Mymatevince it is an aluminum head
Another interesting video Vince. I think you will have enough material with that old bus for several years worth of videos!
The price of Rolls parts is eye watering. Good luck.
Vince you could also use a turkey baster to get that fluid out.
He's not a Lesbian - he probably doesn't have one!!
Well Vince that was a real pain. Such a shame that the special tool didn’t work. I really thought that would break. It’s probably been done up with a pneumatic gun. Let’s hope you can get to the other one and the leaking stops. Great work though. Cheers Graham
Vince do you think that the new tool was being turned the wrong way?? So it was being tightened ? Just love you rolls videos. By the way there are NO ROLLS-ROYCE,'S JUST ROLLS ROYCE NO MATTER HOW MANY THERE ARE.. BUT MY MATE VINCE keep up the Rolls video please. Sorry they don't get bigger following they deserve too. Peter T Wales UK
I'm not familiar with UK vehicles but we usually pump the brakes hold the pedal down to bleed the Hydraulic fluid, another thing is you should clean the fluid off the engine and add a florescent dye in the fuild then use a black light to find the leak
I'd try an impact tool....works wonders.
Could break the special tool? Impact sockets are specially made aren't they?
@@peepiepo Impact sockets are more durable. I don't think using one here would be a big deal since the seal should break well before the metal, especially because Vince doesn't have a heavy-duty shop impact. I think he just has a battery powered one.
maybe it would be a good idea to take off your ring and watch before poking around where there may be electrical connectors. I enjoy your videos and your explanations!
Even though your not a mechanic and you try and do it logically you alway get some sort of result and solve the issue. Atleast you are saving money doing it yourself love the video's and thanks for the entertainment.
It's a shame this videos aren't watched more. It's so interesting and entertaining.
I very much so appreciate and enjoy the longer videos!
Ahhh mate - I was tensing up myself when you were trying to release the pump! Maybe get a breaker bar, they usually have longer arms to apply more torque.
😂 Now that is proper engagement Kip that UA-cam can't measure. You will see me struggle with the rear one in the next episode 👍👍
Hi Vince it's only people with the attention span of a Goldfish that like the three minute reels lol. Keep the RR Videos coming mate the Die Hards love them. Mick 👍🍻
Thank you Mick 👌👍🍺
I'm a non mechanic, but someone once told me that sustained force on a bolt (with a spanner etc) will generate heat making it even more stuck. They advocated one sharp rap to take the bolt by surprise
(as it were).
Great job really enjoyed it
Oh Vince, I can see that the Rols is giving you more and more grey hair. I hope the next job is much more easy. Btw next tine something won't budge, try some WD40 + a Impact screwdriver.
Big 1/2” impact driver might of got it loose like a DCF900 dewalt high torque. Mine is a beast love that tool.
Or it breaks off with the threads stuck in the cylinder head :D Then you'll have a fun time.
@@tschuuuls486 That's why I said might have :)
Yummy Christmas cake . Looking forward to more content on the RR . BTW merry Christmas. I hope you have a good one .
Been looking forward to a Rolls Royce fix :-)
So when you "clamp" a hose like that, you just stick a bolt in the end then tighten the clamp. At least that's how we do it. :)
3:45 Vince I heard that Rolls-Royce are good for planting lettuce.
I've just brought a mini clubman estate to restore so I can do you a good deal on buckets of rust ....I always mark bolts with tippex if they have to be undone a set amount.
Connect an impact wrench to the socket (at a low torque setting to begin with) and hit it in both directions. Gradually (and carefully) increase the torque until it breaks free.
Perhaps an impact gun might loosen that pump?
Yes, but you can double your luck. Because the pump is on the block then first start the engine and get it hot (full running temp) then impact but not an impact gun as these are limited in force. Two person job. Put on the socket and bar then one person load up the bar by pulling as hard as possible then bang down on the extension bar from socket to wrench using a lump hammer or heavier (could almost use a sledge hammer!). If the pump has been in place for 40 years it will be well and truly stuck)
Good job mate 👍
"Everyone seems to favour 3 minute videos" - I hate that, I really want to sit down and watch a My Mate Vince 90 minute video and enjoy every minute.
Wow Vince this is one overly engineered automobile. Thanks for your patience and filming this.
Vince, to remove them pumps, you would need an impact gun, something that shocks and rotates at the same time.
nice work vince
You will not break the pump but possibly the tool
Not nessesery to pump the brakes You do have the 2 internal bleed screws
The pumps normally sitts hard so bent tools are common
If the little inner o-ring leaks the Hydraulic fluid will leak down in to the oil sump
The two big o-rings will cure the visible leak
A good idea would e to remove Your clock working on the car even if You are carefully are turning the battery off
You are skilled and talented
Thanks Burnotto, it is information like this that I can't find on the internet. Hopefully then the leak will be fixed. Do you have one of these cars or have you worked on them in the past? Cheers, Vince 👌👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince I hae mostly worked on Silver Shadow as authorized R-R Mechanic
I do have a Bentley S3
Yes I have worked on Silver Spirit but not that much
I was selling spare parts also
@@burnotto1663 Excellent. Thanks for passing on your knowledge and watching the videos. I appreciate it very much 👍👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Thank You for making the videos
Great job Vince….what a pain! You are amazing bro
shame these arent getting more likes but then you dont have any shouty bellends and i for one am eternally grateful for that.....keep up the good work and maybe invest in a good strong breaker bar mind you my bum would have been nipping at the thought of breaking either the pump or the tool also
It will be the tool not the pump
I don't mean this in a negative way,but isn't it better to clean the car up a bit.
I cant work in a chaotic place where all parts are laying around.
Again i don't meant this in a negative way.
I enjoy your video's and that's why I'm making this comment 😉
I'm getting horrible flashbacks from back when I had a used car. It was such a nightmare. I was constantly having to replace one thing or another and didn't have money so I was always doing the work myself.