Here's a couple of tips for doing brakes. Always clean with a wire brush before spraying with penetratives, this allows it to get right into the joints. Buy a brake hose spanner , that's one that looks like a ring spanner with a cut out to allow you to slip it over the pipe and then it can grip more sides of the union to prevent rounding. Buy a small propane torch to heat up really stuck bolts , being of course careful not to burn wires or rubber hoses.
Learn also to remove rust jacking if present. I use a small carbide garden shear sharpening bit that cuts right through. A brush will not remove it. I also find that applying penetrate to a hot fastener helps a lot.
I thought it was his cat , and it was helping with the brake job , I've done brakes before but never on a RR and usually we pull the calipers pull the pads use a caliper compression tool to compress the caliper pistons put new pads in reattach and the bleed the brake lines at the back of the caliper to remove air and job done ( to bleed them you pump the brakes hold them down and then open the bleeder valve for a bit and then close it then repeat until air doesn't come out ) by the way your calipers shouldn't be pressurized at high pressure unless you are pushing on the brake pedal otherwise you wouldn't be able to drive your brakes would be locking the wheel in place there would be a little pressure but not a lot
Idk why it’s so pleasing to watch you struggle doing car stuff I grew up on a farm and I will say your tool set holds you back big time that’s a 15 min job pulling the brakes with right tools
Wow, I was knackered watching you remove those bolts - I can imagine how hard that was! Will be interesting to see the part with the pistons!!! Cute cat lol - was trying to eat your bag!
A tip of the trade. When loosening caliper bolts, turn the wheel in or out to access the bolts. In that way you can use large breaker bar. Only be aware that the car might move as you turn the wheels, so it can fall off the jacks. If you can lift 100 kg then you have 100 kpm on a 1 meter breaker bar.
Really glad to see a new RR video show up! Saved it for when I was having a bit of a slow office day, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Looking forward to more videos in the series. As always, thanks for the great content.
Great video as always, Vince! I really enjoy this series. A tip for when you're working on the front brakes: try turning the steering wheel so that the path of the breaker bar goes outside the wheel arch. This will allow you to use a longer lever and a better body position to use your strength more effectively. Keep up the good work!
Really glad to see the rolls Royce back. although not a rolls Royce we put a new seal kit on the brake Calipers on our rover 75 the video is on this channel it might help
Couple of tips for doing brakes. Jack both sides up so you can turn the hubs to get better positions on the bolts. Also for the caliper bracket bolts if you don't have a gun the best way can be using a jack to jack on the ratchet or breaker bar
Dear Mr. Vince. 👍👌👏 It was a hard struggle but you finally won! Congrats! 2) Heat, Sir, applying some heat will nearly always help to losen rusted on bolts/screws and even ones with loctite on. 3) I really hope I'm wrong but I thought to hear a disharmony while you tried to start the engine and even after it ran. To me it seems that one cylinder lacks of compression in comparison to the other ones. Once again: I hope I'm wrong! 3a) It's never good to let run an engine only for such a short time. Especially if it hadn't run for some time. So please kindly allow me to suggest that you let it warm up at least a bit next time. Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards, luck and health.
I'm not going to lie, I saw the cat on the thumbnail and had to watch! Came for the cat and stayed for the fix. Hope you had a wonderful Christmas and New Year's. Can't wait to see what you have in store this year. :)
From the blue mat to the blue hoodie! Woop! Man those bolts were on there tight. Goes to show why other car mechanics use air tools they call 'big nasty' etc ;)
While I love all the small fix vids, these Rolls videos are EPIC. Glad you finally got back to her. Have you given her a name yet? If not can your viewers vote? I vote for Elanor. Great vid Vince
Hey Vince. I would like to give you some pointers. First of all, there should never be any pressure in the brake lines unless you're stepping on the petal. It doesn't matter if it's a normal braking system or this complicated Rolls Royce system. Brakes operate on pressure. If there was pressure in the lines, the brakes would be applied and you wouldn't be able to spin the hub. Brakes that get stuck on have collapsed rubber hoses. High pressure from the pedal applies the brakes and forces through the restriction in the line, but the pistons in the calipers retracting don't have the force to push the fluid back. It's more convenient to lift both wheels off the ground so you can turn the knuckle (I think Europeans call that suspension part the upright) left and right when working on the brakes. It gives you a lot better access when you can turn the knuckle wherever you want it. Use heat to break loose tough nuts and bolts. A dinky little torch isn't going to do anything. You need to get the bolts nearly glowing red. In the USA, acetylene torches, bottles, and gas refills are fairly affordable and a necessary tool in the states that salt the roads in the winter, leading to some incredibly rusty cars. This may be impractical due its size and where you're working, so maybe look into an inductive but heater. They're expensive, but well worth the money.
Since the wheel is in the air, you should check the ball joints, tie rods and wheel bearings, for wear/play. You can grab the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock and wiggle it, if you feel play, you should check what is loose. After that, grab it at 6 & 12 o'clock and to the same thing. You could have turned the wheel toward you, to have better access. You could use a lamp inside the wheel well, that way we can see better what you are doing in there. To me it looks like the disc is well worn. I wouldn't put new pads on those. There is a fairly big lip at the outer edge.
Wow, Vince! I love this video series! I'm quite sure I wouldn't be brave enough to take on a project like this. The wife would likely have a lot to say about it if I tried something like this seeing how much you have had to put into this project. Surely you'll have a purring baby once this is done. One that you can be proud to drive up and down the streets of your community.
You really need to invest in a decently long 1/2" breaker bar Vince, itll work much better on those really stuck bolts, you will have more confidence really pulling on it as opposed to a ratchet/torque wrench which will slip/strip. Love these videos, watching you discover how to carry out these repairs, as a mechanic myself i occasionally watch through my fingers but ill never knock somebody for trying, you are doing a great job! 👍🏼
A technique for loosening and tightening the large brake caliper bolts. Use a box end wrench, preferably a 6-point box end, put it on the bolt and use one hand to pretension the wrench. Then use a small 3 lb Hammer to smack the wrench. You get a massive amount of force in a quick shock wave. As long as you don't round over the edges of the bolt, you can smack it quite hard. For reassembly just follow the proper torque specs and use some blue loctite.
I had just thought to myself earlier today it had been a while since a Rolls Royce vid, thought maybe because winter time. Well done getting those calipers off. they can be a real nightmare as can seize on as not generally taken off much. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Happy New Year Vince. If you thought about it a little, the brake lines wouldn't have had pressure in them unless someone was standing on the break peddle otherwise the wheels would never turn as the brakes would be permanently on.
Nothing goes to plan Vince, on my old XJS I wanted to change the thermostat, a garage guy said 30 mins max…. I sheered a bolt off and had to get someone to re thread the hole after he drilled out the bolt or stud I can’t remember which, I was fuming lol Nice work Vince keep it up mate
best way to make sure that the pressurised hyydraulic circuits are depressurised is to repeatedly press the brake pedal with the ignition on but engine not running, this will allow any residual pressure in the system to disperse. It is worth remembering that on rolls royce cars there is no brake master cylinder as you would find on an ordinary car, the brake pedal on a RR opens a valve that allows pressure generated by the engine driven pump to flow to the callipers. Later shadows and spirit models use LHM fluid , earlier shadows should have a specific mineral oil supplied by castrol, it is not recommended to put brake fluid in the early cars as some say can be done for short term measures.
When working on brakes again try and turn steering on full lock you will find it easier and lots more room and get a set of brake pipe spanners and a flexible pipe clamp off tool love the videos keep it up
You might find it easier to turn the wheel from side to side when you undo bolts?😊 Like turning the wheel to the right for the front caliper and left for the back. Try it… Happy new year🎉
Constructive criticism Vince. Use a breaker bar to loosen tight nuts and bolts. You risk damaging your torque bar using it to crack bolts. It's only designed to torque nuts and bolts, not break them.
I haven't expected you fixing the Rols with kitties 😀 Graham from Adamant IT mentioned that he needs to fix his car and I said he should call you and make a repair co-op 😀😀😀
Vince, you have a Milwaukee battery so, consider treating yourself to a Milwaukee impact driver - it will save you loads of time. Long breaker bars are also good but access can be a problem when working on the floor. Good luck with the jobs. Might be an idea to get it an MOT and then work through all the problems.
At least those bolts are either big enough to take the punishment without snapping or even better high tensile bolts, but its steel into soft cast metal so it should go ok. I've noticed since I turned 64 that I tend to be puffed out at the end of any strenuous work no matter how long it is or short the work period. So I tend to avoid it if possible.Also I find I tend to be more lazy at this age too, and put off as long as possible any strenuous work, much preferring to lay around watching you do it on UA-cam LOL. A great video as usual Vince, for a while there I thought you'd given up on the roller, but it is much harder physically than either electronics or even boat repair. Also sometimes we forget you do have a life beyond youtube videos, taking the videos is hard enough but the editing would be a killer too. Thank you for making these entertaining videos Vince, maybe don't say it enough but from me it's much appreciated. I get a lot of enjoyment watching all your videos 📹 😂 I think the yellow paint is like other cheaper cars their testers just put a yellow or red check mark line on them to show its been inspected, especially the brake components. My car is filled with yellow and red lines on the brake and suspension parts.
good job Vince, just a little tip if you are removing the calipers and your going to split them then crack the bolts that hold the 2 halves together while it is still on the car as its easier than trying to do them with the caliper off the car.
Asbestos brake pads were banned in the UK in 1999 (A late bloomer the UK was :P ) with the exception of pre-1973 vehicles, so you definitely should have taken care just in case the pads had asbestos fibres in them.
Great work keep it up , even though you struggled a little bit you never gave up and got it apart hopefully the other side is a little easier after you finish this side
Good lad Vince, nice to see the beast is back, Too many so called experts that think they know it all, commenting on here, vincey boy will have the car MOTd once he's ready to get her on the road. As he always states at the start of his videos, "I'm no expert, etc,etc ". Good video vincey baby.
Another great video, Vince, though I admit much of my entertainment in the early portion of the video came from thinking that the distorted reflection of the bench in the car door next to the rear wheel arch made it look like you were being observed by a large penguin (2:01) 😄 (Given your other animal observer maybe you were... ) Can't wait for the next instalment.
Please thoroughly check the Piston Caliper Bores for any lines of corrosion. Each time that you press the footbrake, the moist air is drawn inside the master Cylinder which (later) condenses. This ingress of water into the Master Cylinder (having a higher density and heavier than the Brake Fluid) tends to run down to the lowest point, ie; the Calipers. This water finds its' way into the Caliper Piston Bores (particularly if the Brake Fluid isn't changed at regular intervals). You may see a fine black line of pitting - inside the caliper Bore, which can make even new Seals leak out! But not all is lost, because you could have stainless steel Bore Liners installed, should you have this problem. If I do this work, some days before, I would use WD 40 to penetrate those rusty screw threads. I even thought about placing a water-absorbent filter at the Breather Hole of the M/C Reservoir to stop this happening..........Think of very foggy cold days. Or days of high humidity. This does happen.
8:45 "... the idea is that as soon as the brake sensor comes on, you change the brake pads all around the car (front and rear, left and right side) because it's a Rolls-Royce." 😂
Vince even though there was a lot of tv news coverage in the early 90's about Asbestos, brakes were one of the last things to loose asbestos from the linings, as it created resistance and friction that normal rubber would just melt. and as such even though they reduced the amount of asbestos any vehicle should always be treated as having asbestos in the brakes. reguardless of age, as still known to have asbestos in brakes when I was doing car maintenance course in the mid 90's, and even 3 year old trucks in the early 90's had asbestos brakes. so anything pre-2000's I would treat as asbestos brakes.
but still wouldn't go with an air gun at the brake discs on a modern car either, just to be sure. looking it up now asbestos in brakes was banned in 1999 so be looking at mid 2000's for brake pads to be replaced, and classic cars in 2004 which would be like mid 2015 or something for a classic cars brakes to be replaced. so a long time after the car was manufactured, but could still be asbestos anywhere around the wheel arch as parts were replaced during the life of the RR. and the only way to illiminate it completely would be replace everything including the wheel arch cover at the same moment in time as unlike a building, asbestos on a rotating part can be airborn with the rotation of the wheel, not just blowing it.
some quick tips for you Vince when doing brake pipes try to get some brake pipe spanners just to help you not to round off the fittings and also when undoing caliper bolts you can turn the steering to full lock either way so the body of the car is not in your way
Actually it’s very important that all four jacking points are NOT crushed up, the jacking point must be used in conjunction with the original Rolls-Royce car jack, which is located in the boot........ unless your intention is to drive around with a trolley jack in the boot all the time.
Just ordered up a 750mm one from Amazon for £30, should be here in a few days. Hopefully you see it in a few episodes time as the next couple have already been filmed 👍👍
@@Mymatevince GREAT!! Loved the video as always. This is the first video I actually got a notification from your account in a while, hopefully that’s a good omen? Haha
Vince, I've been really enjoying your videos for a while now & I'd love to see how the Rolls turns out & how much the old girl finally costs. I think I said about £20K at the start, would be nice to know how far I'm off but unfortunately I have a slight terminal cancer issue that I've been told will resolve itself in Q1 this year. Don't suppose you get can her fixed by then can you 🤣😂. Thanks for all the entertainment & all the best in the future, I can promise I will be here watching it as long as I am capable 😁😁
This message is really hard to read and if I am truthful has brought a tear to my eye. I wish I could say that it will be on the road in a timely fashion, but I think realistically it will be the summer time as the weather is already against me most days. The next couple of episodes are filmed but let me add up what it has cost so far in the series and then we can guesstimate from there in the following episode yet to be filmed. I want to also add you name to the car. I'm thinking on the metal dashboard or the back of the wood on the wooden dashboard. Are you cool with that? Would you prefer it elsewhere, your choice. Thanks so much for watching my videos and I hope you have the chance to watch many more videos pain free 🙏👍
@@Mymatevince Wow Vince, name on the car would be an honour thanks mate. Most ppl used to know me as Booze so just use that if you like. Don't worry, I'm in a relatively good position compared to some others & I plan on enjoying your vids as much as I can, the time I was given was obviously an estimate so with a bit of luck I might have longer than they thought 🤞👍
@@toraganaboozehound3995 Booze it is then Boozehound. Hopefully we'll both get to see it on the road in the summer or at the very least on the road on it's way to the MOT station or the Banger Racing circuit!!!!!
@@Mymatevince Thanks muchly Vince, I look forward to it, hopefully living out her days as the Matemobile rather than getting wrecked on a banger circuit 🤣😂
Nice work and interesting design for the brakes in Rolls-Royce :) With my back problems, definetely I'm not as strong anymore as when I was young and even then I wasn't super strong :D Man I remember one exhaust pipe job, bolts didn't open until I borrowed dad's 1meter extension bar, and even with that I had to get angry to get those damn nuts open :D
g`day old mate vince get a milwaukee 1/2 inch drive high / mid torque impact wrench you have that big battery and it will help lots with rusted high torqued bolts and save you lots of grief and huffing and puffing ( get a spares or repair one for the blue mat take a chance and maybe get a great tool and another video maybe.. new would be better) your going to come across a lot more of those tight rusted bolts it will pay for itself in the long run save time, headaches must have for suspension, brakes, steering, wheel nuts etc IMO great video mate cheers
Brake fittings: 1. Wire brush and clean the line. 2. use a micro butane to heat the fitting, not the line. 3. Add a good penetrant. 4. Always use a line wrench-not a vice grip!. The car is not metric, although 3/4 is the same as 17mm. 5. The yellow marks are factory torque checks.6 If you replace hoses, the stripes are on the hose for a reason. If they are twisted-even slightly- the hose will wear out prematurely 7. Most importantly .only torque the line fitting to 18-20 lbs or they will distort the seat and not seal.
hey Vince, you should really invest in an electric impact wrench, or if you can spring for it' a pneumatic impact wrench and a small compressor, it would make stubborn bolts much much easier to manage then a socket wrench. Better yet you might find a broken one on the cheap, and repair it, then use it to work on the Rolls!!! Love the content though.
I feel your pain Vince! I end up aching for 2 days after doing car work now and the strength I had when I was younger is definitely lacking. I done piston seals last year and it was a pain so I hope yours goes easier.
At around 6:30 - my experience is the exact opposite haha. I have a workshop manual for a Mitsubishi that quite literally goes down to identifying faulty sensors with an oscilloscope and detailing exactly what bolts needs to be removed. There is a 32 step by step instruction set on identifying a faulty coolant temp sensor. It shows what voltages should be on what wire at what temperature and what signal to expect where. I'm not sure if all workshop manuals are like that, but I'd quite like if that was the case. The haynes manual (for the same car) essentially just skips the identification part, and tells me what to do to just replace the sensor. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Popping the pistons out is easiest DIY by reconnecting the hydraulic lines with the calipers off the car and pressing the brake pedal. Because you're doing 2 calipers at once, you can put a socket between the pads of the caliper whose pistons move out first, to stop them coming out all the way past the seal. IMO you're going to have more trouble replacing the piston seals without splitting the calipers, to make the savings on the extra seals worthwhile.
It is Nandi 😂 My camera does 4K but NOT when it is connected to a monitor, so none of the blue/yellow mat vids are 4K as I need to see what is going on via the monitor. But most of the RR car vids should be 4K unless I forget to change the settings 👌😎
The brake discs look like they have a decent lip on them, need to get a micrometer on them to check the thickness and then look in the workshop manual to see what the minimum thickness for the front brake discs is. If the discs are at or below the stated figure they need to be replaced, both at the same time as an axel set. Unfortunately any rust even if it is just surface rust on brake pipes is an M.O.T failure as it is part of the braking system which is critical to safety, the brake lines fitted will be steel which has been painted green. When replacing them you can use cooper brake pipe which will not rust and is much more easier to bend and shape. You will need a tool to flare the ends of the pipe along with the nuts (male and female) and couplers. When you took the flexible hose off you really need to cap off the line on the car as with all the fluid leaking out it will eventually drain the system enough to allow air in and then you will need to bleed the entire system again along with replacing all that fluid. Have a look online for "Fluid Line Stopper Kit" as these will same you time, money & mess in the long run. If you are going to do more brake work invest in some flare nut spanners, this will stop you rounding off the flare nuts used on braking systems. The caliper bolts are always going to be tight, well over 100Nm and normally have thread locker on them to stop them from coming undone as nobody wants to lose their brakes. To complicate matters further sometimes these bolts are torque to yield which means they stretch when you tighten them so they can only be used once and must be replaced every time they are undone. You will also need a calibrated torque wrench and when reinstalling them they need to be torqued to specification just like the wheel nuts. The bolts were painted yellow after being checked that they were tightened to the correct torque in the factory. Before you try to change the seals on the pistons make sure all the bleed nipples come undone, they look heavily corroded and usually snap like carrots when you try to undo them as they have not been undone for many years and are usually made from steel and the calipers are made from cast aluminium, the difference in the two metals causes a galvanic reaction welding the two together making them nearly impossible to undo. You need these to undo as you will not be able to bleed the system if they snap. I will be honest changing the seals on the pistons is not something I would do as those pistons are nearly a interference fit in the calipers and without the correct tools it is very easy to damage the new seal when inserting the piston back into the caliper. Calipers are now just changed as a whole as it is to labour intensive to change the seals and also nobody wants the liability if something goes wrong. When brake calipers are re-manufactured they are pressure tested on a machine to make sure they hold a specific amount of pressure for a set amount of time to confirm the seal has not been damaged during installation and the bore in the caliper has not been damaged from corrosion leading to a poor seal. As brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the atmosphere this can lead to corrosion inside the hydraulic braking system and also brake fade as water boils at a lower temperature than brake fluid which is why you need to replace your brake fluid every two years. The pistons can also be a real pain to remove from the calipers and are usually removed by pumping compressed air down the port where the brake pipe connects to the caliper forcing the piston out of the caliper. This is very dangerous and without the special tool to retain the piston from flying out the caliper I would not recommend trying it. All the best. Adam
Thanks Adam, I found both your recent messages in my SPAM section of UA-cam. Massive apologies for that...I presume because they are longer than the average message YT sees them as spam. Obviously I have removed them and placed them back on the videos. I think the brake discs will need replacing. It just seems such a mountain of work at the mo that I would like to get it MOT'd just to see the list that needs doing. Kinda like a motivation list to get through. I know that doesn't make sense when I had everything stripped but in my mind it makes sense 😂 BTW I spoke to a welder linked to the MOT garage and he is happy to do the welding on the rear spring cup so that is a massive weight of my mind. Please keep up the comments even if you don't initially see them on the videos. I will always get them out of the spam section 👍👍👍 As always thank you!
@@Mymatevince No worries Vince glad you got to read them in the end. Taking it for MOT does not seem silly at all, in fact that is what we used to do for our customers before servicing as nothing worst than servicing a car to the schedule and then taking it for MOT and it fail on items not covered by servicing. The list will give you something to work to like you said which is always good for motivation as you can cross off the jobs as you go. It will also let you know if the car is worth any further repairs as if it does have structural damage it will not be economically viable to repair. Have you had a HPI check on the vehicle? I wondered if it has ever been written off in the past. That is not as bad as it sounds as vehicles can be written off for very minor damage like a screwdriver in the door lock. Its just if the car is old and the insurance company does not see the value in repairing the vehicle they write it off. This will give you some idea of its past along with how many owners it has had along with how long they kept it for. Many owners in a short period of time is not normally a good thing as they usually sell they car when it becomes problematic passing the problem onto someone else.
@@APSuk2 Thanks Adam, the dealer who sold it had the HPI done. My plan is to get 4 tyres, just pricing them up as the Avon Turbo Steel are very very pricey so I may opt for an alternative but still a good brand. Then get the door panels and dash back together and get the MOT and the welding done. I feel quite excited as it will be much more fun when it is a rolling restoration (fingers crossed it will get to that stage) 👍
@@Mymatevince If you are planning to not take the car on the motorway I would go for a budget tyre as just driving around town is not going to push the tyre hard. Nothing wrong with budget tyres but if you are doing over 10,000 miles a year which would also suggest motorway use then I always advise a branded tyre as they last longer. But I don't see the roller doing a faction of that so a budget would be more than acceptable. I don't know if Rolls Royce used a unusual wheel size which if they did it would not surprise me. This would limit your choices in terms of brands as if it not a common size some tyre manufacturers will not manufacture tyres for your car as there is not enough demand to warrant creating to moulds, stocking a quantity of them on hand and distributing them regionally. For budget I would be looking at the following brands: Kumho, Kleber (owned by Michelin), Fulda (Owned by Goodyear), Dayton (owned by Bridgestone) Tyres are a very competitive market where the fitter will only be making £5 to £10 a tyre unless you are getting ripped off. Black circles online is very competitive and try to get three other quotes before you go ahead. Don't just roll in and get them fitted as they will want to fit the brand they make the most mark up on and is easy for them to get in stock so they will try to push you into what they want to fit instead of what you want. A classic is that the brand you want will take weeks to get in stock. Well no problem just go else where, so many companies do tyres you are not short of options. Just because their distributor does not have a good relationship with that tyre brand does not mean another tyre shops uses the same distributor and this is where you will find not only vastly differing stock levels but also brand options and massive price differences which is why it pays to put the time in and shop around. Also pay attention to the load and speed ratings, some tyre shops try to pull a fast one and just quote you for the tyre size saying nothing about the load or speed rating. What they have done is priced you for the correct tyre size but a lower speed and load rating. This makes the tyre much cheaper to manufacture hence why they can give you a lower price but you are comparing apples with oranges. Also if you do not fit a tyre with the same specifications as what Rolls Royce fitted (size, load & speed) and you get into an big accident your insurance company can say because the tyres fitted to the vehicle are the "incorrect" specification your policy is null and void. I always pre-order my tyres in advance so I know I am getting the brand I want and for the price I want, also makes sure all your prices include disposal of the old tyre (around £2-£3) and balancing. They look like steel wheels so should be able to take hammer of wheel weights unless they will interfere with the wheel trims? Hammer on weights attach to the rim of the wheel right where the tyre meets the wheel. If you cannot have hammer on weights it is a good idea to take the wheels off and give the inside a very good clean as the fitter will use stick on weights. These need to be applied to a clean surface otherwise they will just fall off and the inside of wheels always get neglected with brake dust, dirt and corrosion building up over the years. The fitter is not going to spend the time cleaning the inside of the wheel as the profit margin is so small on each tyre, they make their money through high volume so they will spend as little time as possible fitting your tyres. I have seen wheel weights stuck on top of brake dust, dirt and corrosion with the customer presenting the car with steering wheel wobble and it is because half the wheel weights have fell off.
@@Mymatevince @My Mate VINCE If you are planning to not take the car on the motorway I would go for a budget tyre as just driving around town is not going to push the tyre hard. Nothing wrong with budget tyres but if you are doing over 10,000 miles a year which would also suggest motorway use then I always advise a branded tyre as they last longer. But I don't see the roller doing a faction of that so a budget would be more than acceptable. I don't know if Rolls Royce used a unusual wheel size which if they did it would not surprise me. This would limit your choices in terms of brands as if it not a common size some tyre manufacturers will not manufacture tyres for your car as there is not enough demand to warrant creating to moulds, stocking a quantity of them on hand and distributing them regionally. For budget I would be looking at the following brands: Kumho, Kleber (owned by Michelin), Fulda (Owned by Goodyear), Dayton (owned by Bridgestone) Tyres are a very competitive market where the fitter will only be making £5 to £10 a tyre unless you are getting ripped off. Black circles online is very competitive and try to get three other quotes before you go ahead. Don't just roll in and get them fitted as they will want to fit the brand they make the most mark up on and is easy for them to get in stock so they will try to push you into what they want to fit instead of what you want. A classic is that the brand you want will take weeks to get in stock. Well no problem just go else where, so many companies do tyres you are not short of options. Just because their distributor does not have a good relationship with that tyre brand does not mean another tyre shops uses the same distributor and this is where you will find not only vastly differing stock levels but also brand options and massive price differences which is why it pays to put the time in and shop around. Also pay attention to the load and speed ratings, some tyre shops try to pull a fast one and just quote you for the tyre size saying nothing about the load or speed rating. What they have done is priced you for the correct tyre size but a lower speed and load rating. This makes the tyre much cheaper to manufacture hence why they can give you a lower price but you are comparing apples with oranges. Also if you do not fit a tyre with the same specifications as what Rolls Royce fitted (size, load & speed) and you get into an big accident your insurance company can say because the tyres fitted to the vehicle are the "incorrect" specification your policy is null and void. I always pre-order my tyres in advance so I know I am getting the brand I want and for the price I want, also makes sure all your prices include disposal of the old tyre (around £2-£3) and balancing. They look like steel wheels so should be able to take hammer of wheel weights unless they will interfere with the wheel trims? Hammer on weights attach to the rim of the wheel right where the tyre meets the wheel. If you cannot have hammer on weights it is a good idea to take the wheels off and give the inside a very good clean as the fitter will use stick on weights. These need to be applied to a clean surface otherwise they will just fall off and the inside of wheels always get neglected with brake dust, dirt and corrosion building up over the years. The fitter is not going to spend the time cleaning the inside of the wheel as the profit margin is so small on each tyre, they make their money through high volume so they will spend as little time as possible fitting your tyres. I have seen wheel weights stuck on top of brake dust, dirt and corrosion with the customer presenting the car with steering wheel wobble and it is because half the wheel weights have fell off.
Next time make it easier on you get all hoses and stuff that can melt out of the way and use a torch heat the heads of bolts up and it would have been cake you overworked and overthunk on how to get loose heat up next time as long hoses are out of way and no fluid present to make your life easier brother love the videos keep it up...
You should of changed those discs as well Vince they are knackered, you can clearly see a massive lip on the the edge showing how much they are worn, it’s a waste of time just to do the pads, you will have to do the whole process all over again, if you can’t afford new ones you might be able to get them re-profiled on a lathe.
@9:24 - The sphere location - i commented on that very thing. I had to remove a part that took me hours. While changing the oil, I realized that the same unit was right in my teeth while underneath the car. It always pays to look first.
Not sure when you managed to find the weather for working on the RR been horrible for weeks now here in North Wales if not raining its been far to cold, hope you had a good Christmas and a good new years
Here's a couple of tips for doing brakes.
Always clean with a wire brush before spraying with penetratives, this allows it to get right into the joints.
Buy a brake hose spanner , that's one that looks like a ring spanner with a cut out to allow you to slip it over the pipe and then it can grip more sides of the union to prevent rounding.
Buy a small propane torch to heat up really stuck bolts , being of course careful not to burn wires or rubber hoses.
Learn also to remove rust jacking if present. I use a small carbide garden shear sharpening bit that cuts right through. A brush will not remove it. I also find that applying penetrate to a hot fastener helps a lot.
Thanks Adelle👌
You finally understand UA-cam! The cat content is what gets the views :D
Hahaha, watch this one go viral. The most boring RR video in the series will be the one that succeeds 😂
😂😂😂😂😂
Cats are always popular, but the RR videos aren't bad either.
I thought it was his cat , and it was helping with the brake job , I've done brakes before but never on a RR and usually we pull the calipers pull the pads use a caliper compression tool to compress the caliper pistons put new pads in reattach and the bleed the brake lines at the back of the caliper to remove air and job done ( to bleed them you pump the brakes hold them down and then open the bleeder valve for a bit and then close it then repeat until air doesn't come out ) by the way your calipers shouldn't be pressurized at high pressure unless you are pushing on the brake pedal otherwise you wouldn't be able to drive your brakes would be locking the wheel in place there would be a little pressure but not a lot
He’s done it boys, peak content. Only down hill from here 😆
Idk why it’s so pleasing to watch you struggle doing car stuff I grew up on a farm and I will say your tool set holds you back big time that’s a 15 min job pulling the brakes with right tools
These videos bring me joy Vince. I absolutely love them.
Wow, I was knackered watching you remove those bolts - I can imagine how hard that was! Will be interesting to see the part with the pistons!!! Cute cat lol - was trying to eat your bag!
Just released Part 32 with the pistons Chris. Lovely cat that one, always causing mischief in the garden 👍
A tip of the trade. When loosening caliper bolts, turn the wheel in or out to access the bolts. In that way you can use large breaker bar. Only be aware that the car might move as you turn the wheels, so it can fall off the jacks.
If you can lift 100 kg then you have 100 kpm on a 1 meter breaker bar.
Really glad to see a new RR video show up! Saved it for when I was having a bit of a slow office day, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Looking forward to more videos in the series. As always, thanks for the great content.
@11:09 - the cat sound - it's universal. That makes me giggle with delight frankly.
Great video as always, Vince! I really enjoy this series. A tip for when you're working on the front brakes: try turning the steering wheel so that the path of the breaker bar goes outside the wheel arch. This will allow you to use a longer lever and a better body position to use your strength more effectively. Keep up the good work!
I was going to say the same
Really glad to see the rolls Royce back. although not a rolls Royce we put a new seal kit on the brake Calipers on our rover 75 the video is on this channel it might help
Couple of tips for doing brakes. Jack both sides up so you can turn the hubs to get better positions on the bolts. Also for the caliper bracket bolts if you don't have a gun the best way can be using a jack to jack on the ratchet or breaker bar
Dear Mr. Vince.
👍👌👏 It was a hard struggle but you finally won! Congrats!
2) Heat, Sir, applying some heat will nearly always help to losen rusted on bolts/screws and even ones with loctite on.
3) I really hope I'm wrong but I thought to hear a disharmony while you tried to start the engine and even after it ran. To me it seems that one cylinder lacks of compression in comparison to the other ones. Once again: I hope I'm wrong!
3a) It's never good to let run an engine only for such a short time. Especially if it hadn't run for some time. So please kindly allow me to suggest that you let it warm up at least a bit next time.
Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and health.
Still absolutely loving this content Vince. Superb.
I'm not going to lie, I saw the cat on the thumbnail and had to watch! Came for the cat and stayed for the fix. Hope you had a wonderful Christmas and New Year's. Can't wait to see what you have in store this year. :)
Great work Vince!! Way to persevere. Love these videos. Best wishes from the US of A
From the blue mat to the blue hoodie! Woop! Man those bolts were on there tight. Goes to show why other car mechanics use air tools they call 'big nasty' etc ;)
I've always been partial to a bit of blue 😂
While I love all the small fix vids, these Rolls videos are EPIC. Glad you finally got back to her. Have you given her a name yet? If not can your viewers vote? I vote for Elanor. Great vid Vince
I'd call her morag...as in more aggravation
Eleanor maybe? Great name!
Hey Vince. I would like to give you some pointers. First of all, there should never be any pressure in the brake lines unless you're stepping on the petal. It doesn't matter if it's a normal braking system or this complicated Rolls Royce system. Brakes operate on pressure. If there was pressure in the lines, the brakes would be applied and you wouldn't be able to spin the hub. Brakes that get stuck on have collapsed rubber hoses. High pressure from the pedal applies the brakes and forces through the restriction in the line, but the pistons in the calipers retracting don't have the force to push the fluid back.
It's more convenient to lift both wheels off the ground so you can turn the knuckle (I think Europeans call that suspension part the upright) left and right when working on the brakes. It gives you a lot better access when you can turn the knuckle wherever you want it.
Use heat to break loose tough nuts and bolts. A dinky little torch isn't going to do anything. You need to get the bolts nearly glowing red. In the USA, acetylene torches, bottles, and gas refills are fairly affordable and a necessary tool in the states that salt the roads in the winter, leading to some incredibly rusty cars. This may be impractical due its size and where you're working, so maybe look into an inductive but heater. They're expensive, but well worth the money.
Since the wheel is in the air, you should check the ball joints, tie rods and wheel bearings, for wear/play. You can grab the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock and wiggle it, if you feel play, you should check what is loose. After that, grab it at 6 & 12 o'clock and to the same thing. You could have turned the wheel toward you, to have better access. You could use a lamp inside the wheel well, that way we can see better what you are doing in there. To me it looks like the disc is well worn. I wouldn't put new pads on those. There is a fairly big lip at the outer edge.
And i was just thinking of you. Happy New Year. I hope 2023 brings you many many broken things to fix and us as much of your content as possible.
hi, love your videos, please keep them going. tip, always put the wheels underneath the car when you take them off, extra safety feature.
Worth getting a long breaker bar mate. I think you will get your use out of it with the other jobs on the car.
Or use jack handle over straight bar from socket set.
Wow, Vince! I love this video series! I'm quite sure I wouldn't be brave enough to take on a project like this. The wife would likely have a lot to say about it if I tried something like this seeing how much you have had to put into this project. Surely you'll have a purring baby once this is done. One that you can be proud to drive up and down the streets of your community.
You really need to invest in a decently long 1/2" breaker bar Vince, itll work much better on those really stuck bolts, you will have more confidence really pulling on it as opposed to a ratchet/torque wrench which will slip/strip. Love these videos, watching you discover how to carry out these repairs, as a mechanic myself i occasionally watch through my fingers but ill never knock somebody for trying, you are doing a great job! 👍🏼
A technique for loosening and tightening the large brake caliper bolts. Use a box end wrench, preferably a 6-point box end, put it on the bolt and use one hand to pretension the wrench. Then use a small 3 lb Hammer to smack the wrench. You get a massive amount of force in a quick shock wave. As long as you don't round over the edges of the bolt, you can smack it quite hard. For reassembly just follow the proper torque specs and use some blue loctite.
Good to see you back on the Rolls! I can understand the delay. I've been doing the same before starting my next restoration series.
Loving this series. I have work to look forward to in the spring/summer. I have 2 project motorbikes to work on.
The car definitely did rise, I'm watching on a very large screen, Happy New Year
I had just thought to myself earlier today it had been a while since a Rolls Royce vid, thought maybe because winter time. Well done getting those calipers off. they can be a real nightmare as can seize on as not generally taken off much. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Happy New Year Vince. If you thought about it a little, the brake lines wouldn't have had pressure in them unless someone was standing on the break peddle otherwise the wheels would never turn as the brakes would be permanently on.
Nothing goes to plan Vince, on my old XJS I wanted to change the thermostat, a garage guy said 30 mins max…. I sheered a bolt off and had to get someone to re thread the hole after he drilled out the bolt or stud I can’t remember which, I was fuming lol
Nice work Vince keep it up mate
Rolls Royce use a dab of yellow paint in the factory, as a sign that the bolt/screw/nut has been correctly torqued down to the specific tension.
best way to make sure that the pressurised hyydraulic circuits are depressurised is to repeatedly press the brake pedal with the ignition on but engine not running, this will allow any residual pressure in the system to disperse. It is worth remembering that on rolls royce cars there is no brake master cylinder as you would find on an ordinary car, the brake pedal on a RR opens a valve that allows pressure generated by the engine driven pump to flow to the callipers. Later shadows and spirit models use LHM fluid , earlier shadows should have a specific mineral oil supplied by castrol, it is not recommended to put brake fluid in the early cars as some say can be done for short term measures.
Aah it's Rolls Royce time again. And you got a cute cat in the video.😍
love this series.
part 31 already good lord.
Yay! Another rolls Royce video!!
Hi Vince.
To make it easier to work on brake callipers, turn the steering on full lock.
When working on brakes again try and turn steering on full lock you will find it easier and lots more room and get a set of brake pipe spanners and a flexible pipe clamp off tool love the videos keep it up
You might find it easier to turn the wheel from side to side when you undo bolts?😊 Like turning the wheel to the right for the front caliper and left for the back. Try it… Happy new year🎉
Constructive criticism Vince. Use a breaker bar to loosen tight nuts and bolts. You risk damaging your torque bar using it to crack bolts. It's only designed to torque nuts and bolts, not break them.
Nice to see a vid back on the car! Shame working outside not enough hours of daylight this time of year!
Another great job completed
I'd give 2 thumbs up if possible, as any video with a cat warrants an extra like.
happy new year sir great were back on her nice job 25 k they charge at rolls dealer to re do all 6 calipers pistons seals hoses etc so its worth doing
I haven't expected you fixing the Rols with kitties 😀 Graham from Adamant IT mentioned that he needs to fix his car and I said he should call you and make a repair co-op 😀😀😀
Vince’s Roller has had a CAT Scan… Boom Tish!
Nice video! Maybe consider to grind the small ridge on the edge of the discs before reassembly. Happy New Year!
Vince, you have a Milwaukee battery so, consider treating yourself to a Milwaukee impact driver - it will save you loads of time. Long breaker bars are also good but access can be a problem when working on the floor. Good luck with the jobs. Might be an idea to get it an MOT and then work through all the problems.
At least those bolts are either big enough to take the punishment without snapping or even better high tensile bolts, but its steel into soft cast metal so it should go ok. I've noticed since I turned 64 that I tend to be puffed out at the end of any strenuous work no matter how long it is or short the work period. So I tend to avoid it if possible.Also I find I tend to be more lazy at this age too, and put off as long as possible any strenuous work, much preferring to lay around watching you do it on UA-cam LOL. A great video as usual Vince, for a while there I thought you'd given up on the roller, but it is much harder physically than either electronics or even boat repair. Also sometimes we forget you do have a life beyond youtube videos, taking the videos is hard enough but the editing would be a killer too. Thank you for making these entertaining videos Vince, maybe don't say it enough but from me it's much appreciated. I get a lot of enjoyment watching all your videos 📹 😂 I think the yellow paint is like other cheaper cars their testers just put a yellow or red check mark line on them to show its been inspected, especially the brake components. My car is filled with yellow and red lines on the brake and suspension parts.
Another great video, missing content on the Roller, was afraid you'd given up on filming the old bus.
good job Vince, just a little tip if you are removing the calipers and your going to split them then crack the bolts that hold the 2 halves together while it is still on the car as its easier than trying to do them with the caliper off the car.
Cute cat, Vince :)
Nice fixing video, too :)
2 things I like the most :
Old cars, and cats :)
Asbestos brake pads were banned in the UK in 1999 (A late bloomer the UK was :P ) with the exception of pre-1973 vehicles, so you definitely should have taken care just in case the pads had asbestos fibres in them.
Oh no, I thought it would have been way before that!!!!!! Thanks for letting me know 👍👍
Great work keep it up , even though you struggled a little bit you never gave up and got it apart hopefully the other side is a little easier after you finish this side
Great video and there is no better animal than a cat.
Hey Vince thanks for the videos while your there you might look into regreasing the wheel bearings also.
Well done to do this outside in winter time
Thanks Vince I enjoy the Rolls vids.
Good lad Vince, nice to see the beast is back,
Too many so called experts that think they know it all, commenting on here,
vincey boy will have the car MOTd once he's ready to get her on the road. As he always states at the start of his videos, "I'm no expert, etc,etc ".
Good video vincey baby.
Another great video, Vince, though I admit much of my entertainment in the early portion of the video came from thinking that the distorted reflection of the bench in the car door next to the rear wheel arch made it look like you were being observed by a large penguin (2:01) 😄 (Given your other animal observer maybe you were... )
Can't wait for the next instalment.
Lovely cat looks like my max hes a tuxedo too 😊
Great video, it's usually I good idea to change rotors if they are rusty and look scored, damaged rotors will chew new pads up.
Please thoroughly check the Piston Caliper Bores for any lines of corrosion. Each time that you press the footbrake, the moist air is drawn inside the master Cylinder which (later) condenses. This ingress of water into the Master Cylinder (having a higher density and heavier than the Brake Fluid) tends to run down to the lowest point, ie; the Calipers. This water finds its' way into the Caliper Piston Bores (particularly if the Brake Fluid isn't changed at regular intervals). You may see a fine black line of pitting - inside the caliper Bore, which can make even new Seals leak out! But not all is lost, because you could have stainless steel Bore Liners installed, should you have this problem. If I do this work, some days before, I would use WD 40 to penetrate those rusty screw threads. I even thought about placing a water-absorbent filter at the Breather Hole of the M/C Reservoir to stop this happening..........Think of very foggy cold days. Or days of high humidity. This does happen.
8:45 "... the idea is that as soon as the brake sensor comes on, you change the brake pads all around the car (front and rear, left and right side) because it's a Rolls-Royce." 😂
Vince even though there was a lot of tv news coverage in the early 90's about Asbestos, brakes were one of the last things to loose asbestos from the linings, as it created resistance and friction that normal rubber would just melt. and as such even though they reduced the amount of asbestos any vehicle should always be treated as having asbestos in the brakes. reguardless of age, as still known to have asbestos in brakes when I was doing car maintenance course in the mid 90's, and even 3 year old trucks in the early 90's had asbestos brakes. so anything pre-2000's I would treat as asbestos brakes.
but still wouldn't go with an air gun at the brake discs on a modern car either, just to be sure. looking it up now asbestos in brakes was banned in 1999 so be looking at mid 2000's for brake pads to be replaced, and classic cars in 2004 which would be like mid 2015 or something for a classic cars brakes to be replaced. so a long time after the car was manufactured, but could still be asbestos anywhere around the wheel arch as parts were replaced during the life of the RR. and the only way to illiminate it completely would be replace everything including the wheel arch cover at the same moment in time as unlike a building, asbestos on a rotating part can be airborn with the rotation of the wheel, not just blowing it.
some quick tips for you Vince when doing brake pipes try to get some brake pipe spanners just to help you not to round off the fittings and also when undoing caliper bolts you can turn the steering to full lock either way so the body of the car is not in your way
Actually it’s very important that all four jacking points are NOT crushed up, the jacking point must be used in conjunction with the original Rolls-Royce car jack, which is located in the boot........ unless your intention is to drive around with a trolley jack in the boot all the time.
Loving this series😀
Please Vince, buy a breaker bar, it’s a life saver and will keep your hands safe.
Just ordered up a 750mm one from Amazon for £30, should be here in a few days. Hopefully you see it in a few episodes time as the next couple have already been filmed 👍👍
@@Mymatevince GREAT!! Loved the video as always. This is the first video I actually got a notification from your account in a while, hopefully that’s a good omen? Haha
Vince, I've been really enjoying your videos for a while now & I'd love to see how the Rolls turns out & how much the old girl finally costs. I think I said about £20K at the start, would be nice to know how far I'm off but unfortunately I have a slight terminal cancer issue that I've been told will resolve itself in Q1 this year. Don't suppose you get can her fixed by then can you 🤣😂. Thanks for all the entertainment & all the best in the future, I can promise I will be here watching it as long as I am capable 😁😁
This message is really hard to read and if I am truthful has brought a tear to my eye. I wish I could say that it will be on the road in a timely fashion, but I think realistically it will be the summer time as the weather is already against me most days. The next couple of episodes are filmed but let me add up what it has cost so far in the series and then we can guesstimate from there in the following episode yet to be filmed. I want to also add you name to the car. I'm thinking on the metal dashboard or the back of the wood on the wooden dashboard. Are you cool with that? Would you prefer it elsewhere, your choice. Thanks so much for watching my videos and I hope you have the chance to watch many more videos pain free 🙏👍
@@Mymatevince Wow Vince, name on the car would be an honour thanks mate. Most ppl used to know me as Booze so just use that if you like. Don't worry, I'm in a relatively good position compared to some others & I plan on enjoying your vids as much as I can, the time I was given was obviously an estimate so with a bit of luck I might have longer than they thought 🤞👍
@@toraganaboozehound3995 Booze it is then Boozehound. Hopefully we'll both get to see it on the road in the summer or at the very least on the road on it's way to the MOT station or the Banger Racing circuit!!!!!
@@Mymatevince Thanks muchly Vince, I look forward to it, hopefully living out her days as the Matemobile rather than getting wrecked on a banger circuit 🤣😂
@@toraganaboozehound3995 😂👍
Nice work and interesting design for the brakes in Rolls-Royce :)
With my back problems, definetely I'm not as strong anymore as when I was young and even then I wasn't super strong :D Man I remember one exhaust pipe job, bolts didn't open until I borrowed dad's 1meter extension bar, and even with that I had to get angry to get those damn nuts open :D
I suggest a flare nut wrench for those brake lines. Hold your work with vice grips. Don't rely on the body mount to hold secure.
g`day old mate vince get a milwaukee 1/2 inch drive high / mid torque impact wrench you have that big battery and it will help lots with rusted high torqued bolts and save you lots of grief and huffing and puffing ( get a spares or repair one for the blue mat take a chance and maybe get a great tool and another video maybe.. new would be better) your going to come across a lot more of those tight rusted bolts it will pay for itself in the long run save time, headaches must have for suspension, brakes, steering, wheel nuts etc IMO
great video mate cheers
Brake fittings: 1. Wire brush and clean the line. 2. use a micro butane to heat the fitting, not the line. 3. Add a good penetrant. 4. Always use a line wrench-not a vice grip!. The car is not metric, although 3/4 is the same as 17mm. 5. The yellow marks are factory torque checks.6 If you replace hoses, the stripes are on the hose for a reason. If they are twisted-even slightly- the hose will wear out prematurely 7. Most importantly .only torque the line fitting to 18-20 lbs or they will distort the seat and not seal.
The yellow was thread locker which helped with the struggle to take the bolts off
Love the content vince. Defo invest in a impact wrench makes life easier for you .
hey Vince, you should really invest in an electric impact wrench, or if you can spring for it' a pneumatic impact wrench and a small compressor, it would make stubborn bolts much much easier to manage then a socket wrench. Better yet you might find a broken one on the cheap, and repair it, then use it to work on the Rolls!!! Love the content though.
Nice going Vince !
if you work on the floor i strongly recommend you to use a thick isolation--mat.. you only have two knees..
Hi Vince nice work but can i give you a tip if you heat up the bolts you would able to remove them easier.
Great content like always.
I feel your pain Vince! I end up aching for 2 days after doing car work now and the strength I had when I was younger is definitely lacking. I done piston seals last year and it was a pain so I hope yours goes easier.
happy new year Vince! Is this the year?
At around 6:30 - my experience is the exact opposite haha. I have a workshop manual for a Mitsubishi that quite literally goes down to identifying faulty sensors with an oscilloscope and detailing exactly what bolts needs to be removed. There is a 32 step by step instruction set on identifying a faulty coolant temp sensor. It shows what voltages should be on what wire at what temperature and what signal to expect where. I'm not sure if all workshop manuals are like that, but I'd quite like if that was the case. The haynes manual (for the same car) essentially just skips the identification part, and tells me what to do to just replace the sensor. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
The car is coming along great Vince. I still can’t wait to see you try to get the steering wheel on the correct side😂😂😂
Popping the pistons out is easiest DIY by reconnecting the hydraulic lines with the calipers off the car and pressing the brake pedal.
Because you're doing 2 calipers at once, you can put a socket between the pads of the caliper whose pistons move out first, to stop them coming out all the way past the seal.
IMO you're going to have more trouble replacing the piston seals without splitting the calipers, to make the savings on the extra seals worthwhile.
Hold up there, Vince my boy. Is that 4K I see there?
It is Nandi 😂 My camera does 4K but NOT when it is connected to a monitor, so none of the blue/yellow mat vids are 4K as I need to see what is going on via the monitor. But most of the RR car vids should be 4K unless I forget to change the settings 👌😎
How much of this series is just watching Vince try to loosen stuck bolts? 😂
The brake discs look like they have a decent lip on them, need to get a micrometer on them to check the thickness and then look in the workshop manual to see what the minimum thickness for the front brake discs is. If the discs are at or below the stated figure they need to be replaced, both at the same time as an axel set.
Unfortunately any rust even if it is just surface rust on brake pipes is an M.O.T failure as it is part of the braking system which is critical to safety, the brake lines fitted will be steel which has been painted green. When replacing them you can use cooper brake pipe which will not rust and is much more easier to bend and shape. You will need a tool to flare the ends of the pipe along with the nuts (male and female) and couplers.
When you took the flexible hose off you really need to cap off the line on the car as with all the fluid leaking out it will eventually drain the system enough to allow air in and then you will need to bleed the entire system again along with replacing all that fluid. Have a look online for "Fluid Line Stopper Kit" as these will same you time, money & mess in the long run.
If you are going to do more brake work invest in some flare nut spanners, this will stop you rounding off the flare nuts used on braking systems.
The caliper bolts are always going to be tight, well over 100Nm and normally have thread locker on them to stop them from coming undone as nobody wants to lose their brakes.
To complicate matters further sometimes these bolts are torque to yield which means they stretch when you tighten them so they can only be used once and must be replaced every time they are undone. You will also need a calibrated torque wrench and when reinstalling them they need to be torqued to specification just like the wheel nuts.
The bolts were painted yellow after being checked that they were tightened to the correct torque in the factory.
Before you try to change the seals on the pistons make sure all the bleed nipples come undone, they look heavily corroded and usually snap like carrots when you try to undo them as they have not been undone for many years and are usually made from steel and the calipers are made from cast aluminium, the difference in the two metals causes a galvanic reaction welding the two together making them nearly impossible to undo. You need these to undo as you will not be able to bleed the system if they snap.
I will be honest changing the seals on the pistons is not something I would do as those pistons are nearly a interference fit in the calipers and without the correct tools it is very easy to damage the new seal when inserting the piston back into the caliper. Calipers are now just changed as a whole as it is to labour intensive to change the seals and also nobody wants the liability if something goes wrong.
When brake calipers are re-manufactured they are pressure tested on a machine to make sure they hold a specific amount of pressure for a set amount of time to confirm the seal has not been damaged during installation and the bore in the caliper has not been damaged from corrosion leading to a poor seal.
As brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the atmosphere this can lead to corrosion inside the hydraulic braking system and also brake fade as water boils at a lower temperature than brake fluid which is why you need to replace your brake fluid every two years.
The pistons can also be a real pain to remove from the calipers and are usually removed by pumping compressed air down the port where the brake pipe connects to the caliper forcing the piston out of the caliper. This is very dangerous and without the special tool to retain the piston from flying out the caliper I would not recommend trying it.
All the best.
Adam
Thanks Adam, I found both your recent messages in my SPAM section of UA-cam. Massive apologies for that...I presume because they are longer than the average message YT sees them as spam. Obviously I have removed them and placed them back on the videos. I think the brake discs will need replacing. It just seems such a mountain of work at the mo that I would like to get it MOT'd just to see the list that needs doing. Kinda like a motivation list to get through. I know that doesn't make sense when I had everything stripped but in my mind it makes sense 😂
BTW I spoke to a welder linked to the MOT garage and he is happy to do the welding on the rear spring cup so that is a massive weight of my mind. Please keep up the comments even if you don't initially see them on the videos. I will always get them out of the spam section 👍👍👍 As always thank you!
@@Mymatevince No worries Vince glad you got to read them in the end.
Taking it for MOT does not seem silly at all, in fact that is what we used to do for our customers before servicing as nothing worst than servicing a car to the schedule and then taking it for MOT and it fail on items not covered by servicing.
The list will give you something to work to like you said which is always good for motivation as you can cross off the jobs as you go. It will also let you know if the car is worth any further repairs as if it does have structural damage it will not be economically viable to repair.
Have you had a HPI check on the vehicle? I wondered if it has ever been written off in the past.
That is not as bad as it sounds as vehicles can be written off for very minor damage like a screwdriver in the door lock.
Its just if the car is old and the insurance company does not see the value in repairing the vehicle they write it off.
This will give you some idea of its past along with how many owners it has had along with how long they kept it for.
Many owners in a short period of time is not normally a good thing as they usually sell they car when it becomes problematic passing the problem onto someone else.
@@APSuk2 Thanks Adam, the dealer who sold it had the HPI done. My plan is to get 4 tyres, just pricing them up as the Avon Turbo Steel are very very pricey so I may opt for an alternative but still a good brand. Then get the door panels and dash back together and get the MOT and the welding done. I feel quite excited as it will be much more fun when it is a rolling restoration (fingers crossed it will get to that stage) 👍
@@Mymatevince If you are planning to not take the car on the motorway I would go for a budget tyre as just driving around town is not going to push the tyre hard.
Nothing wrong with budget tyres but if you are doing over 10,000 miles a year which would also suggest motorway use then I always advise a branded tyre as they last longer. But I don't see the roller doing a faction of that so a budget would be more than acceptable.
I don't know if Rolls Royce used a unusual wheel size which if they did it would not surprise me.
This would limit your choices in terms of brands as if it not a common size some tyre manufacturers will not manufacture tyres for your car as there is not enough demand to warrant creating to moulds, stocking a quantity of them on hand and distributing them regionally.
For budget I would be looking at the following brands: Kumho, Kleber (owned by Michelin), Fulda (Owned by Goodyear), Dayton (owned by Bridgestone)
Tyres are a very competitive market where the fitter will only be making £5 to £10 a tyre unless you are getting ripped off.
Black circles online is very competitive and try to get three other quotes before you go ahead.
Don't just roll in and get them fitted as they will want to fit the brand they make the most mark up on and is easy for them to get in stock so they will try to push you into what they want to fit instead of what you want.
A classic is that the brand you want will take weeks to get in stock. Well no problem just go else where, so many companies do tyres you are not short of options.
Just because their distributor does not have a good relationship with that tyre brand does not mean another tyre shops uses the same distributor and this is where you will find not only vastly differing stock levels but also brand options and massive price differences which is why it pays to put the time in and shop around.
Also pay attention to the load and speed ratings, some tyre shops try to pull a fast one and just quote you for the tyre size saying nothing about the load or speed rating.
What they have done is priced you for the correct tyre size but a lower speed and load rating. This makes the tyre much cheaper to manufacture hence why they can give you a lower price but you are comparing apples with oranges.
Also if you do not fit a tyre with the same specifications as what Rolls Royce fitted (size, load & speed) and you get into an big accident your insurance company can say because the tyres fitted to the vehicle are the "incorrect" specification your policy is null and void.
I always pre-order my tyres in advance so I know I am getting the brand I want and for the price I want, also makes sure all your prices include disposal of the old tyre (around £2-£3) and balancing.
They look like steel wheels so should be able to take hammer of wheel weights unless they will interfere with the wheel trims? Hammer on weights attach to the rim of the wheel right where the tyre meets the wheel.
If you cannot have hammer on weights it is a good idea to take the wheels off and give the inside a very good clean as the fitter will use stick on weights.
These need to be applied to a clean surface otherwise they will just fall off and the inside of wheels always get neglected with brake dust, dirt and corrosion building up over the years.
The fitter is not going to spend the time cleaning the inside of the wheel as the profit margin is so small on each tyre, they make their money through high volume so they will spend as little time as possible fitting your tyres.
I have seen wheel weights stuck on top of brake dust, dirt and corrosion with the customer presenting the car with steering wheel wobble and it is because half the wheel weights have fell off.
@@Mymatevince @My Mate VINCE If you are planning to not take the car on the motorway I would go for a budget tyre as just driving around town is not going to push the tyre hard.
Nothing wrong with budget tyres but if you are doing over 10,000 miles a year which would also suggest motorway use then I always advise a branded tyre as they last longer. But I don't see the roller doing a faction of that so a budget would be more than acceptable.
I don't know if Rolls Royce used a unusual wheel size which if they did it would not surprise me.
This would limit your choices in terms of brands as if it not a common size some tyre manufacturers will not manufacture tyres for your car as there is not enough demand to warrant creating to moulds, stocking a quantity of them on hand and distributing them regionally.
For budget I would be looking at the following brands: Kumho, Kleber (owned by Michelin), Fulda (Owned by Goodyear), Dayton (owned by Bridgestone)
Tyres are a very competitive market where the fitter will only be making £5 to £10 a tyre unless you are getting ripped off.
Black circles online is very competitive and try to get three other quotes before you go ahead.
Don't just roll in and get them fitted as they will want to fit the brand they make the most mark up on and is easy for them to get in stock so they will try to push you into what they want to fit instead of what you want.
A classic is that the brand you want will take weeks to get in stock. Well no problem just go else where, so many companies do tyres you are not short of options.
Just because their distributor does not have a good relationship with that tyre brand does not mean another tyre shops uses the same distributor and this is where you will find not only vastly differing stock levels but also brand options and massive price differences which is why it pays to put the time in and shop around.
Also pay attention to the load and speed ratings, some tyre shops try to pull a fast one and just quote you for the tyre size saying nothing about the load or speed rating.
What they have done is priced you for the correct tyre size but a lower speed and load rating. This makes the tyre much cheaper to manufacture hence why they can give you a lower price but you are comparing apples with oranges.
Also if you do not fit a tyre with the same specifications as what Rolls Royce fitted (size, load & speed) and you get into an big accident your insurance company can say because the tyres fitted to the vehicle are the "incorrect" specification your policy is null and void.
I always pre-order my tyres in advance so I know I am getting the brand I want and for the price I want, also makes sure all your prices include disposal of the old tyre (around £2-£3) and balancing.
They look like steel wheels so should be able to take hammer of wheel weights unless they will interfere with the wheel trims? Hammer on weights attach to the rim of the wheel right where the tyre meets the wheel.
If you cannot have hammer on weights it is a good idea to take the wheels off and give the inside a very good clean as the fitter will use stick on weights.
These need to be applied to a clean surface otherwise they will just fall off and the inside of wheels always get neglected with brake dust, dirt and corrosion building up over the years.
The fitter is not going to spend the time cleaning the inside of the wheel as the profit margin is so small on each tyre, they make their money through high volume so they will spend as little time as possible fitting your tyres.
I have seen wheel weights stuck on top of brake dust, dirt and corrosion with the customer presenting the car with steering wheel wobble and it is because half the wheel weights have fell off.
The yellow paint on the bolts is just a torque confirmation mark from the factory.
Next time make it easier on you get all hoses and stuff that can melt out of the way and use a torch heat the heads of bolts up and it would have been cake you overworked and overthunk on how to get loose heat up next time as long hoses are out of way and no fluid present to make your life easier brother love the videos keep it up...
You should of changed those discs as well Vince they are knackered, you can clearly see a massive lip on the the edge showing how much they are worn, it’s a waste of time just to do the pads, you will have to do the whole process all over again, if you can’t afford new ones you might be able to get them re-profiled on a lathe.
a breaker bar might be a wise investment going forward they arent very expensive and give so much more leverage on rust welded bolts and nuts
I suspect those tabs you straightened for the jack points are for the screw jack in the boot. Does the top of the jack tab into it?
I think the MMV massive just grew by one cat.
😂👍
Aaaah, love the cat. So cute 😻
super video Vince maybe its time to take a break (brake) ha ha ha :)
Invest in a breaker bar Vince, it will make your life so much easier.
How's vince not got his own TV presenting job yet?
@9:24 - The sphere location - i commented on that very thing. I had to remove a part that took me hours. While changing the oil, I realized that the same unit was right in my teeth while underneath the car. It always pays to look first.
Not sure when you managed to find the weather for working on the RR been horrible for weeks now here in North Wales if not raining its been far to cold, hope you had a good Christmas and a good new years