Can I REPAIR a ROLLS ROYCE - PART 8 - Fuel Filler Flap - Polish - Engine Clean
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- PART 8 of this New Series. In this episode I attempt to fix the fuel filler flap which doesn't open, I give the bonnet a polish and I start cleaning the engine to help me find the leaks.
My biggest challenge yet! Can I FIX a 1988 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit with too many faults to list, there is more wrong with it than right. Will I end up crying into my Connolly leather seats or will this beast live on.
This is the cheapest Rolls Royce in the UK so I wasn't expecting much, hopefully bit by bit with sheer determination and zero skill I will attempt to fix each fault one by one.
This is PART 8 of this series. Every part will be filmed, and I hope to discover the craftmanship that has gone into this 34 year old moving piece of art.
Merch is here!!!!! www.puddlt.com...
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Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
My Dad was a toolmaker for Rolls Royce. He died in 96. I am so proud of him. he would really approve of your work. It’s about finding solutions to difficult things. He loved what he made! Carry on and keep Calm!
Hi Vince! I'm the bloke who sent the polisher in! I used to detailer professionally so just a few things
T cut contains fillers which essentially fills in those scratches, (caused by the car being wet sanded by the way) this causes it to look shiny but only short time if you wipe it with IPA it soon be dull again. I highly doubt you will be able to remove the scratches by hand but the machine will do the job just fine you will need to research the correct pad though.
I also believe your car is not single stage paint (paint with clear coat mixed through it) it seems to be paint and then clear coat on top.
Last thing is wear a mask if you're going to be using the machine even when outside clear coat is nasty stuff. Disposable P3 mask would do.
Thanks again for the content
Nice one Ben, I have already filmed part 12 on the T Cut attempt but I will remember the tips for another future episode👍👍👍
The original Castrol LHM bottles have a specific tube nozzle which fits in the LHM reservoirs for the suspension and brakes. You'll need to get hold of one of them, Flying Spares has them for a couple of quid, part RH15233. It goes in the holes on the top left of each of the reservoirs as seen at 38:07 - they are accessible with the warning plate in place. The one furthest in to the engine bay on yours has a blanking plug in place, the other one seems to have lost it over the years.
Your "can do" attitude and willingness to tackle anything are an inspiration to us all. Don't forget to research on... UA-cam... for folks who have already blazed a trail for you by doing many of the same repairs. I am certain that there is an especially warm place in Hell for anyone who vinyl wraps a car. Press on regardless!
if it is done, should be done in the early days of a cars life, then the water, salt, and grit hasn't got to the bodywork, to do it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't hide all the rust, because then the buyer isn't aware of any troubled spots, and like Vince finds a rusty car covered in bodge jobs. great video content, but for the average person, then it would cost more than the car is worth to repair by the time you factor in all the faults, rusty panels, chipped paint, and polly filler, not to mention a paint job, or redo'ing a wrap after the proper repairs are done.
kind of like a garage using back to black on tires that need replacing, to hide the fact, lucky for me I checked on the previous MOT before buying my current car, so knew that the tires were reported as needing replacement, even though I know of the wet tyre look to had the fact the treads are nearly at the end of life. and the 2nd car I bought from a garage whereby 2 or more tires needed replacing, as either illegal or extremely close to being illegal.
@@michaelthomas3646 🤔 Interesting comment. The truth of the matter is Michael. This Silver Spirit is a very neglected example, it would be a very expensive car to try and bring it back to Rolls_Royce standard. Unless you can do most of the work needed doing your self. Not many people could. Lastly this is not a rare model Rolls_Royce.....
Another great episode, Vince. I'm really loving the series so far! Makes me want to get my XR3i Cabriolet out of my mum's garage and try to get it back on the road. It's been sat there dead for over 20 years, so it's likely going to need a bit of work! 😬
Cheers Steve, it is probably worth more than you think. All older cars seem to be fetching high money at the mo 👍
That engine oil is probably going to be the consistency of molasses lmao
it will need a new, well, everything. 😁
Don’t turn an engine that has been sitting without draining old fuel and checking cylinders- if it’s a petrol car you can put a little diesel fuel in through spark plug holes. Then rotate manually with spark plugs disconnected that it’s not stuck or rusted stuck
@@cheapasstech absolutely. I detest nothing more than those "it has been sitting for 40 years, will it start?" videos.
It's a good quote. Nice seeing the old paint getting some restoration. Will be nice seeing more of that. Wonderful repairs as always!
Thanks HRF 👍👍👍
Be careful with that T-Cut Vince It will cut through the lacquer layer on your paint (if it has a lacquer layer). Check the t-cut bottle instructions it will explain what kind of paint you can use it on. Older T-cut was mainly used for flat paint but they do do one for lacquer finishes. Also you must use a polish after using the t-cut.
From the looks of the car, it’s likely if there was a protective layer on it, it is likely long gone already
I wouldn’t worry about protecting it the whole car needs a respray lol
I’m generally not a car guy but watching you work on the Rolls Royce is fascinating and compelling. Hoping this series lasts for a long time.
Yeah, I found Vince via the console repair stuff, but have really enjoyed the transition into a fixit channel, but this series is turning into my favorite thing he's done. So satisfying and relaxing to watch.
Oh no Vince I was saying to the screen. Pour some of the Kurust into a plastic tub and don’t dip your paintbrush into the bottle as it contaminates the whole bottle and reacts. Please don’t think that was negative by the way. I’m loving this series of videos.
Hello Vince. I'm an ex Rolls Royce car painter from 1978 and T cut was originally made for Cellulose paint ( Coloured paint or lacquer with thinner using 1 to 1 mix ratio ) unlike todays 2k paints that use hardener with a 2 to 1 mix ratio. Most Rolls Royce's back then were painted with a top coat and dried in an oven and then flatted with wet n dry 600 grit with a marble block. This process was done at least 7 times which gave the cars paint work a much fuller body..You can always test if a car was painted with 2k or cellulose, t cut a s small bit of panel, if color comes off on the cloth then the paint is cellulose, if no colour on cloth then its 2k. If its lacqured you can smell it on the cloth. If 2k you wont smell anything apart from the t cut. Another surefire way to test if car has cellulose or 2k, put some gunwash on a cloth ... Be very carefull though, gunwash is the original thinner to clean your paint gun after painting and is very strong at removing cellulose paint. If you wipe a car with gunwash on old 2k paint the colour wont come off. If cellulose it will.
Thanks Tambian for the advicevand tips, unfortunately I have already attacked the paintwork in episode 12 before seeing any comments. I will have to look at it again at a later date👍👍👍
Hi Vince, loving the series. I've t-cut all sorts of cars, i've just read thru all the comments. I don't use a polisher because its often too fast to control well and only does the flat surfaces well, just hand t-cut all the paintwork to see how good it comes up and will make it all even, you do need to polish over t-cut and my top tip is NEVER EVER t-cut on a hot or sunny day. Stuff is soooooooo much harder to work and get off when the metalwork is warm. I even t-cut by hand a couple of large vans, omg it was hard work but honestly polished a lot of money back into both vehicles. No one can be arsed but it is rewarding and i think you found already the paintwork on a rolls is so good with so many layers it will come back like new if you spend the effort. The bad spots yeh might involve whole panels ie a wing to be painted rather than just a spot. It will never really blend in no matter how good you prepare. Doing the worse panels together with the t-cut on the good stuff will make it like new. Cheers mate.
I’m loving this series. Getting to see the progress brings me joy.
Vince, this is the second video where you've had me cringing as you pry against the body with screwdrivers. They make big boy spudgers for cars called trim tools. They are made of plastic and very useful when working around painted surfaces. No more screwdrivers please, my nerves can't take it. 😂😂
Cheers Andy
I love your videos, Vince. I found your channel while looking at 80s toy repair videos & quickly subscribed. I can't get enough of them! I like the way you view everything with the wonder of a child & no setback seems to phase you. Thank you
The green sphere and whole hydraulic system is Citreon used by RR, so any information about the Citreon system from a reliable source will apply to your Rolls
Yup citroen invented the system, used on Bentley cars also.
🤓
@@JoePlayz69420 UA-camr UpNdown may be a useful contact for this. he has a BX and C6 so knows about both system and knows what a back yarder can and can't do.
Really enjoying the series Vince. Being a car guy and a big fan of yours, when you first started the series, all I could think was "oh no Vince, you've purchased one of the most difficult production cars ever created to get fixed up; may god have mercy on you". But with the tenacity you've had I think you'll eventually get this thing back to a decent state! It's very cool seeing all the nice little things made of metal such as that oil filler cap and the intake tube. Very nice craftmanship. Satisfying to watch those get a polish.
You really shouldn’t dip & re-dip your brush straight into the Kurust as you can contaminate it with bits from the workpiece. Best to pour a small amount into another container and dip your brush in that.
I was about to say the same .
That was good thinking, about the windscreen wiper mechanism.
Don't dip dirty brush into rust converter always pour out what you need and don't put what's left back in as you will contaminate as it reacts to rust . Says on bottle ,good luck Vince
I was thinking about this too. I spoiled three bottles before I realized.
It's a man thing that we don't need to read the instructions, instructions are there to be read
Cannot wait for you to start the work underneath. That's where all the rust and holes are haha. Also looking forward to seeing the leaks and how you find them and deal with them.
Interestingly you mention painting your RR with a paint brush let me tell you a little story, I am 62 years old and I remember a friend of my grandfather telling me many years ago as a kid, how he did his apprenticeship as painter at Rolls Royce Darby works on silver ghosts before WW1
This is the interesting part they applied 26 layers of paint with a brush to each car he also explained that the paint was pushed with the brush not pulled. Finally sanding and polishing until a mirror shine was achieved.
Very nice work, it definitely wants a new air filter as that's probably restricted the engine air intake and power quite a lot being so blocked up, or the original air box put back in, love this series keep it up, enjoyed it so much the 45 minutes went by and felt like 5 minutes.
You’d be able to see it as it’s not a solid colour. The metallic won’t lie down the same if you use a brush, however, if you masked it off and primed it, you’d then be able to flick some colour on it from an aerosol can. It probably won’t last long, but it would be good enough. Also, don’t forget the paint is around 30 years old so getting a match won’t be easy. Doing patch repairs will make it look more respectable but that is probably what you’re after rather than paying thousands to have it resprayed. Just in materials for paint would be over £1k for a car this size.
Doing a DIY job is definitely the way forward.
The joy 😊 and happiness in your voice is always worth the watch ! I can't wait to the the polishing one . Keep going Vince , it will be worth it 👌
I've been enjoying this series so far.
If you have the workshop manual, servicing the hydraulic system is section G5, which you may have seen already. Unfortunately I couldn't find a video specifically on the Silver Spirit but did find one on the Silver Shadow - not sure how different they are (certainly the reservoir looks different at least). Found it on youtube channel rollsroycenut "Silver Shadow Bleeding Brakes" which is in two parts.
I also saw a separate video where the guy hooked up a pressure gauge to the system and monitored the PSI when the engine was on and what it was when braking. Might be worth a shot to try checking those values before fiddling with the system if you can figure out where the valve point is to check. The video I saw was on channel Lonewolf RRBentley titled MVI_8577.AVI Rolls Royce Mineral hydraulic system.
Needless to say, working on the hydraulic system surely starts to get into the more advanced set of tasks, as the system appears to be highly pressurized (2200psi) and runs throughout the car to at least all four wheels then to the engine area and much more.
Thanks Travelling, looking forward to checking out the videos. Cheers 👍👍👍
So many rewarding fixes so far =D
Thanks Chris 👍👍👍
Maybe the carpet is stopping the kick down ?
Nice part 8 thanks keep up the good work Vince
Maybe Cucumber, the non car house carpet may have bunched up and stopped the switch from going down👍👍👍
Did you try the Fray Bentos pie ?
@@travisash8180 😂👍
14:57 unless you plan on using a clear coat after you paint it, it won't turn out very well as clear coat is what gives the depth in the finish
Paint with spray, sand it 1500-2000-2500 sand paper.
Spray again 2000 2500 clare spray 2000 and 2500 after that you go over the area with t cut or clay and wax and you will have a non existing spot.
Nice video you are getting us to setting up camera and telling story on that car :)
Yes, I would spray rather than brush - I've been there and it was too bumpy lol! Far easier to polish down fine spray layers vs brushed paint. It can blend well if you over spray a little but mask off the larger area.
Thanks Anders, I have already filmed the first attempt, I won't spoil it 😂 but I have ordered up some wet and dry in finer grades, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000 👍👍
Why such fine paper? You can flat the primer with 800 or 1000 wet and dry then use a grey scotch pad to flat the rest of the wing, paint over the primer and flick the colour slightly wider than the repair, then clear coat the whole panel.
The only time you'd need 1200,1500 or 2000 would be to de nib the job once dry before polishing with some g3 or finesse it depending on the finish.
Avoid T cut, we don't use it in the trade anymore, buy some 3m finesse it or Farecla G10, much better finish 👍
@@andicog i am shore you can do a brilliant job with biger grid paper if you do it every week.
Vince know i am just DIY prrson my self and i find it abit slow but i am happy with the finish i accomplish with the method i recommended.
@@andersmmvfc.8376 I'll explain it like this , if you wanted to shape a block of steel, would you get the shape better with a file or a piece of wet and dry? Which would ensure the surface was level and straight? It ain't the wet and dry . Never go finer than is necessary, 800 or 1000 is fine, if you rub through then a light coat of primer before the colour coat is fine, honestly, 1200, 1500, 2000 etc is for paint rectification, removing orange peel or dirt nibs, it's not for prep even when using light coloured pearls and Metalic (where prep has to be 100%) Most modern shops will now sand dry using a 600 disc.
Shape filler initially with 40, then 80, then guide coat and 180 or 240. 👍
Boy I love this series Vince, just a heads up mate. Pour a little rust inhibitor into a small pot and don't keep dipping the brush into the main pot. By dipping into the main pot you will contaminate the new liquid. Roll on episode 9.
Your quote is basically my workflows at work. Your working very "Agile"! Good job and loving this series!
Like the hairdryer idea! A suggestion for upping your degreasing/cleaning at some point - use fluids. Gunk is good but it ain't cheap in any significant quantity, so get yourself some paraffin or diesel. Both work incredibly well as degreasers, they're more versatile than wet wipes and they're far safer than petrol (which also works very well but, well . . . 💥).
Stick some in a bucket to help wash down the bits that come off and arm yourself with a handful of cheap paintbrushes for the bits that don't. Just remember to put something under whatever your cleaning to catch whatever washes off 👍
Obviously he's doing it all at home, but the best way would be to have the whole engine bay steam cleaned.
I cringed at the fuel cover being on the driveway ! slowly coming back to life now. Yay a little shout out ! that quote was given to me by an old engineering mentor of mine and its your approach which is why you will succeed ! ...cheers!
"Progressive" carb. For gentle economical driving you're usually running off the first barrel, but if you're more aggressive and heavy on the throttle, the second barrel opens up as the pedal heads to the floor.
The engine probably has a Bosch-Motronic fuel injection system, or a K-Jetronic fitted, depending on the build date, see injection pipes and fuel distributor. The secondary lever is very like a secondary carb butterfly but in this injection system, allows the fuel distributor sensor plate to raise, therefore increasing fuel flow to the eight injectors.
It is beginning to be one of the most cherish 😍 and beloved ♥️ Rolls Royce of 🇬🇧
Vince, I believe on a previous video I made the suggestion that this is the route that you should go. By working on the car by hand it's going to be easier to carefully restore the paint. You could also look at getting a small airbrush and compressor and carefully restore the paint in the damaged areas. This is like what you would do if you were working on a model car or small hobby project. Love to watch your careful attention to detail as you lovingly restored this fine old car.
I'm so exited every time I see an episode of this uploaded. Good luck VInce!
Love the series Vince - one tip: Make sure you follow up with an actual lubricant rather than just WD-40 - WD-40 is great - I use it a great deal too but some appropriate lubricant (oil or grease depending on the application) helps to keep moving parts moving. A lithium grease is usually a good idea where there are two metal parts in direct contact (without a bearing of some sort). Have you found a factory service manual for this or a Haynes guide? They may come in handy when you're trying to work out things like the wiper mechanism. Thanks again!
I'm glad someone said this, it took me so long to realize that WD-40 is a water displacer not a lubricant, it does lubricate but it doesn't last long as a lubricant
No haynes manuals fot these unfortunatley.bin looking for a service book on one for years.dont seem to be any about for them.
That WD-40 IS Lithium grease. Its not regular WD-40. I use that same stuff on everything on the car, on the house and everywhere else.
the value of your RR keeps going UP AND UP. Nice job on the T cutting polish. Cant wait to see the rest of the car. i like the idea of touch up paint on them spots. You can even use a modellers air brush top feather it in.
Oh my goodness, that T-Cut transformation was night and day, absolutely blown away.
The T-Cut appears to be similar to a product we have here in the USA called "NuFinish" - make sure you heed the warnings and directions on the label - some products like this are not recommended to be used with a polisher (DA or otherwise) - there are many products that can (and probably should) be used with a DA polisher such as what you have - just make sure you have to appropriate backing and polishing pads to go along with the product.
As for paining on with a brush I think you'll have much better results with a spray can color matched to your car's paint code - a specialist shop can match to that code and usually will adjust based on the age of your car so it's not as obvious of where the re-spray was done. You'll need to clear coat the color coat as well - even the clear can be had in spray can form but it'll probably run about 20-30 pounds - should have "2k" or "2 pack" in the name - the hardener is mixed when you go to use it. With enough prep work effort you should have a nice result.
USA!! USA!! Nuke the USA !! Russia!
That must have been so satisfying at the end. Well done!
I need that Ammo NYC collab with Vince and the Rolls Royce :D Thanks for this series.
Hey Mate, when I was a we lad working me way thru college, I worked in a petrol station back in the days where such places were where people brought their cars for repairs. Among other things I used to do oil changes and lubrication. We always put heavy grease on moving parts like your gas filler cap, bonnet, boot and door hinges; not the liquid oil you use. This tended to keep such things in good order. Give it a try😎
Great video vince that carpet could be getting in the way for the kickdown button and stopping it going down bring on the the next one can't wait well done.
This T-Cut stuff is awesome. It looks already very good.
Word of warning Vince.
If your fluid leak seems to be anything to do with the hydraulic suspension be aware its going to be under a lot of pressure.
Do some reading about how the system works and most importantly how to depressurise the system before working on it.
Guess who didn't once and nearly sent a citroen suspension sphere into orbit?🤣
Great advice, and if I'm not mistaken, Rolls Royce uses actual Citroen spheres because they are an excellent idea and quality part, fitting for such a quality motor 👍
Cheers Adele, I can imagine how much pressure was behind just as you got to the last couple of turns to undo it😂 thanks for the heads up. I believe I have to repeatedly press the brake pedal whilst the engine is off to depressurise it BUT I will do some reading up beforehand 👍👍👍👍
@@Charlie_Crown Those Citroen suspension parts are a F**k**g nightmare, nearly all of the older Citroens with the hydraulic suspension were scrapped cause of it.
@@stevenc5227 Citroen have stopped using them, apparently they are designing something revolutionary, but Rolls Royce and Maserati are still using the spheres, still manufactured by Citroen, so they can't be that bad, plus why would you scrap a Citroen just because the suspension is shot, when you can just replace the spheres, like you would shocks, I never changed one out, but how hard can it be really?
@@Charlie_Crown not scrapped just for the spheres, but all sorts of other problems connected with it, i am talking about the older Citroens from the 80s early 90s.
Bit of advice, when using the rust treatment decant some into a container rather than putting the brush into the bottle, otherwise any slight rust debris can make the entire bottle activate and go off.
Will do, thanks Scott👍👍👍
First thing I was going to say too, I remember seeing that warning on the bottle years ago, when my dad used to use Kurust.
Vince remember the fix You did for the trunk/boot opener ?
Maybe You could add some metal or aluminum to the fuel door hinge to strengthen it.
I hope you have found how to fill the reservoirs. You need a CASTROL bottle of the silicone that the systems run on. On the top of the canisters where the sight fill indicator is, just next to it is a filler access which required a specific coupler to allow you to fill the reservoirs. Incidentally, Flying Spares offers a stick with a complete service manual for your car. I live in Laramie Wyoming and have an 86 Spur and 93 Brooklands. Have lots of experience with these cars. The manuals are invaluable. Our nearest agent is 280 miles away!! Do everything by computer and EBay and Amazon. I have also developed a very workable relationship with an Agent who supplies me with parts that are specific. Once a quarter I send the service department some nice steaks and they answer all my questions!!!!!.
Don't play with the suspension and brake systems without the manual. They are very prone to easy problems if you don't follow procedures. One important tip. I had a flexible high pressure line fail and fix that. However I needed the silicone and was miles from help. Local Mercedes agent had some non synthetic Biltzen fluid for Mercs and it works fine.!!
TEXT if you need help.
Punch.
5 days no video hope all is well with U Vince love watching ya videos for the last 3 yrs
Cover your intake and fuse box and pressure wash the engine. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WATER💦 it’s an old wives tale that it hurts engines. If you are super worried do some steam cleaning. If not just hose it down with compressed air afterwards.
On electrical connectors that old, it's likely they are no longer waterproof.
When the car is finished is going to be so cool . I have been watching your channel
For 3 years
Love this series Vince. Might I suggest a shop vac type vacuum to suck up debris in the engine bay etc. it beats a hair dryer blowing it all around and redepositing it elsewhere. Keep up the good work. Hello from Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada.
Man, I have 20+ more videos and I can already tell this is going to come out gorgeous. I've never understood the appeal of looking at the last page of a book, but man, I wanna peek at that last video to see how it turned out early, lol.
Another great part of the car fix Vince. 👍
Yep best to be wary of stray sparks and the car, you, 1/8 your Dads house, 1/8 the neighbours house would be slightly damaged you definitely a tad more so. Lovely watching you work on this car at your Dads house, you do it so well.
The man's a genius. Well done mate. Thanks for another great video. Don't ever change anything!
Spray yes, paintbrush no. You would have to coat it maybe 500um thick just to be able to sand out the brush strokes, and that's the job of fillers. Even a cheap can of a similar colour would do a better job.
If you want to find leaks you have to degrease everything thoroughly, go for a drive, and then check where the leaks originate from. Basically oil on the trans can be coming from things like the rocker cover, so everything needs to be cleaned and checked soon after the car's been driven. Spray degreaser is the easiest. and if you're worried about electricals don't point the hose at them, ie, slight splashes are not a problem.
I couldn't help but laugh when Vince said he wanted to avoid making sparks near the fuel tank.... as he sticks a dirty oil soaked rag in the fuel filler opening! 🤣
You missed an opportunity to use some CGI to make it looked like you set it on fire! 😉
My favourite series on UA-cam right now, keep up the great work Vince. It was great to speak to you on Phils livestream the other week, hope you’re feeling better mate!
Invest in some lithium spray grease it’s brilliant and doesn’t mark clothes like regular grease especially around door openings…. Fantastic keep up the great work
You could take your petrol cap to your local car paint supplier so they can digitally scan the paint and make up some spray cans.
The match is normally perfect. Being metallic you really want to spray the paint and not use a brush. Also buy some SprayMax 2K Clear Coat
for the lacquer, I've had great results with that. There are loads of YT videos on how to do this. Good luck with the RR
this is such an enjoyable series, this and bithead1000 muscle car 'restauration'
thanks for all the fun times vince!!
@19:07 - You could bring one of your flux brushes to the car and use it for greasing areas like this!
You are making terrific progress. Well done. Wharever did the previous owners do to this grand old lady!
Thank you Mike 👍👍👍
This is a terrific series Vince, thank you. (I’m now up to date.)
I will never be able to own a Rolls Royce but your videos are the next best thing.
Looking forward to the next instalment. All the best, Mike
I would swap out all those underhood relays as well. Fixed a bunch of gremlins in mine, especially with the fan speeds and wipers.
Also, T-cut contains fillers which fills the scratches to make it look better. This is a short term solution. If you want a high gloss which lasts, use a proper cutting compound on a proper foam pad with your electric polisher and you’ll see a better difference.
3M sell a product called ‘fast cut’. Go for the green one with the green pad and you’ll never look back.
If you don’t believe me, give the fuel cap with a wipe of your favourite liquid - IPA and you’ll see the scratches come back
This channel is so good that it has the official support of Mad Max.
Vince you can get colour matched paint made up in spray cans. You should check into the type of paint finish the car came with Isingle stage etc) to ensure you paint it the same way. Good Luck.
Always nice to see someone else cleaning!
yes please be careful Vince we want you around for many yrs
those "tire valve caps" are bakelite ignition coil nut caps.
Thanks James 👍
My wife says that’s her tea towel ! 😂 have used loads over the last seven years restoring my Saab Aero convertible - just do a bit at a time as I can afford - good luck with RR
For your question on touching up the paint, yes you probably could get away with touching up the spots clearly need sprayed again but absolutely do not do it with a paint brush, some paint supply shops can make up spray cans (which still aren’t ideal but better than a paintbrush) by either scanning the paint on the car to match it or you can give them the original colour code.
I’d highly recommend getting some compound and polish instead of using t cut and then a good wax to seal the paint and protect it after you’ve finished polishing the car and you also should probably be using a clay bar before starting to compound or polish the car at all, id personally recommended maguires but autoglym and I’m sure plenty other known brands work just as well, just be sure to read the bottle or even check out some of the brands videos on how to use their products to be sure you’re using the right product as some portions of the car might only need a polish and some might need compound and polish, hope this helps love the videos.
Don't paint topcoat with a brush Vince. Your paint is a metallic so flakes will lie and look wrong. Get a made to code paint aerosol and find out the right colour basecoat or overall colour will be wrong. Also NEVER use any cleaning stuff that has been on the floor, not even a sponge. Will cause more damage to paintwork making it harder to sort in the long run. Otherwise great stuff!
I just realised that your opening theme is THE perfect theme for a guy trying to rebuild the cheapest Rolls Royce in The UK 😅
I always look forward to these episodes. Great to see the Rolls coming along bit by bit.
Get a few manual pump sprayers, you know the ones with the push rod to build pressure in the bottle. Fill one with a degreaser diluted as required and one full of just water. Spray the degreaser in and use paint brushes to agitate dirt then rinse with the other one.
Also screw fixes no nonsense degreaser is awesome
By an amazing coincidence I am watching episode 8 and have the TV muted and on-screen I see Bangers and Cash S3 Ep2, no I'm not a petrol head but in the TV show is a Silver Spirit about to go to auction. I am hooked on your series and shared it with my mates.
Great video again vince.enjoyable series !
You can actually spray the entire engine bay with gunk engine cleaner or simple green start it up and let it warm up but not get hot let it cool and spray water all over, overall your connectors are closed connections but cover your coil. Just let everything dry before you start it. Good video if I ain't watching electronic repairs I'm watching automotive repairs.
Love this series!
You're quite right, on its own that car looks a massive project and quite daunting, however break the jobs down and it's not as bad.
There is a channel called hoovies garage, he buys loads of cars, he's had a few Bentley's, and they cost him a fortune to fix especially hydraulic leaks. Good luck with the car 👍
This would make an awesome colab project with Chops Garage. He's amazing with a rattle can and loves a classic car too!
For some reason this video finally got me committed to the series.
Before this one I wasn't totally on board.
I look forward to the cars eventual return to stock.
This is a lovely series Vince. I have thoroughly enjoyed every episode and am really looking forward to the final episode where you cruise around showing off the restored RR!
Good job Vince.
There are single stage paints which can be wet sanded with 2000 grit sand paper and then you buff it with rubbing compound. Dual stage which is basecoat clearcoat can be "cut and buffed" meaning you sand the "orange peel" from the clearcoat then buff with rubbing compound. It doesn't take that much skill to do this buts its very time consuming. If you brush the paint on it will look horrible and would take forever and a day to sand all that texture out of it. You can purchase colors online that are real paint in spray cans that actually contain an activator that breaks open internally when you shake it. Same with clear coat. Watch some videos on how to properly lay down coats of spray paint and give it a go! Getting that car sprayed professionally will cost more than you paid for the car.
As E10 is the new standard petrol grade it might be worth worth a check Vince if the car can run on E10 fuel before you fiill it up. Also try using the hole in the end of the adjustables to loosen/tighten allen keys.
The suspension components and Green LHM oil are Citroen parts. Get them from Citroen dealers as they are cheaper than RR. Nice videos so far. Keep them coming!
Bit by bit she is getting back to beautiful again thanks to your hard work Vince. You should be proud of the job you've done so far. Welldone
To get a good look at possible oil leaks you really should clean properly. Degrease, high pressure wash, soapy soak, rinse. Much better result and in half the time compared with the wipes method.
You should be able to "dust in" the areas that have body work or primer on them; the car will be a twenty footer but it can be done for perhaps a few hundred dollars/GBP.
Clearly never been a car builder.......it isn't easy to 'dust in'.....chances are, the car isn't even the colour it should be. It has clearly been re painted at some time, and it may not be a roller colour. With metallic, to do it correctly, you need to flip into the next panel in order to get a good match, so it's not going to be cheap
@@delboytrotter7902 No one said it was easy; you can easily match the metallic gray by removing the fuel filler door; taking it to an automotive paint supplier and have them match it pretty much exactly. Now, blending is a skill, and not for amateurs and the amount of blending on this car would dictate a full respray. DIY painting of metallics can also result in "tiger striping" as well. Even a cheap paint job on that barge will be $5000-$6000 dollars. Find a shop that will spot paint the car and...Bob's your uncle
I get so excited for every video. Vince, this is series is fantastic!
Wow. I was just thinking the other day when Vince was going to send out another rolls royce video...and here we have one. Really loving the series. Very interesting cars
Never seen of heard of cleaning an engine with wet wipes. Interesting approach
Looking better and better Vince, keep it up
I'm halfway through. Vince says "a load of wet wipes". Wet wipe count prediction, based on previous videos, for the entire engine bay: 3. No-one, and I mean NO-ONE, can make a wet wipe further than Vince. :)
Hahahaha, that is so very true 😂😂😂 I am actually laughing out loud! Cheers for the compliment👍👍👍👍
That second lever opens a second buttery in the carb to allow more air and fuel in