You are incorrect indeed, that receptacle is a duplex, which is accordingly to nec code unless it's a single receptacle then it is in violation of nec code.
Why use pigtails to connect the wires from the breaker to the line side of the GFCI when you can just connect to the GFCI? Saves on those damn wags and allows for more space in the box. Understand the ground but no the other wires. Waste of time and money.
Why would you not GFCI-protect the secondary outlet, if it's coming from a GFCI receptacle? There doesn't seem a downside to doing it. The secondary outlet is less safe because of this. About the only reason I can think of is that the second outlet is dedicated to a specific applicance, and that appliance is a source of nuisance GFCI tripping. Or else that appliance must be reliably on at all times, even if there is a nuisance GFCI tripping for some other reason.
NO NO NO and one more NO lol unless you have full coverage home insurance and don't tell them what you did after the house fire. 15 amp breaker gets 14 g wire and 15a receptacle (outlet). a 20 amp breaker is 12 g wire with 12g receptacles.
Thank you for this video. When we had our bathrooms remodeled, our contractor put GFCI outlets as required by the sink, but the circuit that it's on also has bathroom outlets on it (older home). Every time the bathroom GFCI triggered, all of our bedroom outlets would lose power because they hooked up the downstream to the load connectors. I've rewired my GFCI outlets this way and now triggering the bathroom outlets don't cause loss of power to our bedrooms.
Congratulations! You’ve made all the bedroom receptacles less safe. BTW- why is the GFCI tripping so often in your bathroom? I’ve been in my house with GFCI in the bathroom for 22 years and it has only tripped three or four times. Maybe you should replace the GFCI receptacle as it may be defective.
@@glasshalffull2930 less safe how? The bedroom outlets aren't near water. It trips often because it's near the sink and my kids splash water all over the place. I'd say the outlet in the bathroom is working as intended and doesn't need to kill all the bedroom outlets unless you can tell me a good reason for it or if it's required by code.
@@nahpungnome Though the NEC ‘currently’ only requires GFCI in wet spaces, the industry encourages them to be installed in areas with increased activity and electronics. It’s just added protection for you and your family. For example, when my brother was about 8 he stuck a piece of wire into an outlet and there was quite a fireworks show. He was OK, but it could have been really bad. A GFCI would have protected him. Anyway, I really like the added protection they give, but I can understand your particular predicament. I’m totally serious, but perhaps an outdoor weatherproof cover is in order for the kids bathroom receptacle. Good luck!
Can I ask you a question?almost all my receptacles in my home have no grounding and no GFCI receptacles .none in bathroom or kitchen well atleast they don’t have grounding I know for sure.so my question is would it be wiser and best for me to replace receptacles with a GFCI receptacle (even though there’s no grounding wire) or just add a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel box?and how many GFCI breakers would I need ??I have the main panel box and a sub panel box .home was built in 1957…im so confused with all this grounding GFCI stuff but I need my home to be safe
Unless your main electrical panel has been replaced with a modem one, most likely there's no GFCI breaker available in your case. Short of a complete rewiring, GFCI receptacles are the only option.
Making each outlet as a single location GFCI outlet is more expensive but arguably better so that if one outlet trips, the entire circuit doesn't trip. If you're changing a downstream protected circuit to make that GFCI only single location protected, it'll likely be against code if you do that. In every state I've lived places like a kitchen or garage need all outlets protected by GFCI, per code. Some homes do this with one GFCI protecting everything downstream from it (not single location like shown here). In those situations, it would be wired differently than this. When I've run my own circuits (all permitted), I do all single-location GFCI protected outlets. It's slightly more complex wiring pigtailling at each location and it's significantly more expensive, but it's the most reliable circuit.
Is it ok to just run the new outlet directly to the load side of the old outlet? Rather than make pigtails all going into the line? Hope that makes sense lol.
Yes you can do that if you want the downstream outlet to switch off when the gfci trips. Effectively that makes the downstream outlet protected by gfci.
I installed a GFCI outlet and the little green LED light is on. So I assume it's supplying power. Yet when I plug in an appliance it gets now power. What does this mean?
I have existing GFCI outlet in the patio. I would like to add another outlet in the patio using power source from existing GFCI. Do you recommend the new outlet to be another GFCI or regular (not protected) outlet? Thank you.
I would think because like he said if the GFCI is by the sink and the other outlet, it’s not then it doesn’t really need to be protected, especially by code, so he wired it as a parallel circuit so if the GFCI guess what it will short out, but won’t affect the rest of the circuit.
Hello, thank you for this video, it is exactly what I was looking for. In my garage I have a GFCI that is on the other side of the garage from the sink. Unfortunately for me the GFCI is the outlet closest to my Landscape Irrigation timer thus when it trips (and it has when I was out of the country) my landscaping & grass was almost dead from the Texas heat. Would it be possible to put the GFCI & the other outlet in a double gang box? I really would like to pull power from this GFCI and add another outlet in an upper cabinet so that I can plug in my battery chargers out of sight.
No enough power, faulty wiring or whatever you have plugged in is messed up. Sometimes rope lights will trip the plug if one bulb goes bad and is either getting wet or is just bad
Hi, great video! At about 6:25 you specify connecting to the line side, not the load side. Could you explain that. What is line side, what is load side. Why use one and not the other. Thanks
you can think of the as entrances exits. Not a perfect analogy but it will work. The line side is the “entrance” - the wires that will supply electricity to the outlet. The load is the “exit” you can add more outlets after the gfci and they will be protected by the gfci. Which means you will also shut off everything that is attached to the load side when the interrupt is tripped. This can be good if you have multiple outlets on a countertop near a sink. They don’t all need to be gfci and still be protected when they branch off of the load side. If you have outlets and lights in other rooms that are down the branch though, every time it trips you will shut those off too which can be frustrating, that is when you would not use the load side.
That’s why he pigtailed it. And to answer your question they will be live. Need to hit the breaker at the panel. If he ran it up though the top two screws then the other outlets after or down stream will not receive power
Why would you want to bypass the GFCI to the next outlet.. GFCI is designed to be a sensitive breaker 3 to 4 milliamps, so it trips before the breaker in the main panel does.. The way you have it, the outlet will trip the breaker in the panel and then both of these will be off anyway.. If the outlets in the bathroom are tied into the GFCI, than they all follow code.
An example I can think of is if you have a freezer downstream of the GFCI. The GFCI may be near a sink where it is required, but you don’t want it tripping and ruining your food.
I would like to know what this purpose of this video is. There are very few situations where you would want to do this without violating code, and by the comments people are confused by what you even did.
He makes it quite clear: code requires GFCI protection for outlets within 6ft of the wet space. If the outlet is further than 6ft then you may want it to remain powered even when the GGCI pops. He demonstrated that, and he pointed out such a downstream outlet would have to be more than 6ft from the wet space. Perhaps he could have put one of his flags to emphasize that, in case someone didn't watch the entire video carefully to understand all of the points he makes.
@@douglasmoore9918 Residencial code requires all receptacles in a kitchen to be GFI protected. Also in residential code, kitchen circuit and bathroom circuits are dedicated, so if you are adding receptacles to the circuit they should be GFI protected. This channel seems to be dedicated to Residentail DIY work, however somethings should not be done DIY. Some of the comments are people talking about adding receptacles in their kitchen, this video would not apply to them, however when he responded to the comment he made no mention of that.
@Jonathan Chamblee I see your point that the circumstance for this type of arrangement would be rare. In my case, I'm planning to put a wash sink in the corner of a work room. I'm thinking of GFCI protecting outlets within 6 feet but use his technique to power the ones further away. Would that be a bad thing? I'm worried that running a large printer, paper, etcher, or such would pop the GGCI?
Great video! My kitchen doesn't have nearly enough outlets. Thank you!
Thank you so much for watching! 🙏🏽😊
All kitchen receptacles should be gfci and afci protected per code. Don't line side your new receps and use dual function device not just gfci
Plrase tell me: Why woudn't you simply wire to downstream terminals of GFCI & protect the other receptacle?
Learn something new again Sir 🙏😝👍👍👍
Well done my friend great presentation
Correct me if I’m wrong but you are not supposed to use 15a outlets on a 20a breaker.
You are incorrect indeed, that receptacle is a duplex, which is accordingly to nec code unless it's a single receptacle then it is in violation of nec code.
My situation: Breaker to GFCI no ground wire. Line in....load out.... to next non-GFCI outlet. Outlet has power but shows open ground. Ok or nah?
Save the Wagos and just wire the line and load to the same side of the GFCI. There are 2 sets of lugs to accommodate that.
True but the grounds still need to be pigtailed
Perfect presentation!
Why use pigtails to connect the wires from the breaker to the line side of the GFCI when you can just connect to the GFCI? Saves on those damn wags and allows for more space in the box. Understand the ground but no the other wires. Waste of time and money.
Very informative video for a beginner. Thanks for the great communication.
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Why would you not GFCI-protect the secondary outlet, if it's coming from a GFCI receptacle?
There doesn't seem a downside to doing it.
The secondary outlet is less safe because of this.
About the only reason I can think of is that the second outlet is dedicated to a specific applicance, and that appliance is a source of nuisance GFCI tripping. Or else that appliance must be reliably on at all times, even if there is a nuisance GFCI tripping for some other reason.
Can it be wired the opposite way? Reg receptical as the main source then attach a gfi in the bathroom on adjacent wall?
Rodriguez Joseph Taylor Donald Wilson Shirley
question : can this connection goes first to none GFI plug and to a GFI plug ? thanks for the great video you know how to make it simple.
Why not use 20 amp outlets since you have 20 amp breaker and wire?
Is it OK to use 15-A outlet with a 20-A service?
NO NO NO and one more NO lol unless you have full coverage home insurance and don't tell them what you did after the house fire. 15 amp breaker gets 14 g wire and 15a receptacle (outlet). a 20 amp breaker is 12 g wire with 12g receptacles.
Yes you can but you need to have more than one receptacle on that same line if its only one receptacle then you have to use a 20amp receptacle
What's the reason for not putting the outlet onto the LOAD part of the GFCI
Wilson Helen Williams Timothy Hernandez Ruth
Can you have gfci in both boxes?
Thank you for this video. When we had our bathrooms remodeled, our contractor put GFCI outlets as required by the sink, but the circuit that it's on also has bathroom outlets on it (older home). Every time the bathroom GFCI triggered, all of our bedroom outlets would lose power because they hooked up the downstream to the load connectors. I've rewired my GFCI outlets this way and now triggering the bathroom outlets don't cause loss of power to our bedrooms.
Congratulations! You’ve made all the bedroom receptacles less safe. BTW- why is the GFCI tripping so often in your bathroom? I’ve been in my house with GFCI in the bathroom for 22 years and it has only tripped three or four times. Maybe you should replace the GFCI receptacle as it may be defective.
@@glasshalffull2930 less safe how? The bedroom outlets aren't near water. It trips often because it's near the sink and my kids splash water all over the place. I'd say the outlet in the bathroom is working as intended and doesn't need to kill all the bedroom outlets unless you can tell me a good reason for it or if it's required by code.
@@nahpungnome Though the NEC ‘currently’ only requires GFCI in wet spaces, the industry encourages them to be installed in areas with increased activity and electronics. It’s just added protection for you and your family. For example, when my brother was about 8 he stuck a piece of wire into an outlet and there was quite a fireworks show. He was OK, but it could have been really bad. A GFCI would have protected him. Anyway, I really like the added protection they give, but I can understand your particular predicament. I’m totally serious, but perhaps an outdoor weatherproof cover is in order for the kids bathroom receptacle. Good luck!
Can I ask you a question?almost all my receptacles in my home have no grounding and no GFCI receptacles .none in bathroom or kitchen well atleast they don’t have grounding I know for sure.so my question is would it be wiser and best for me to replace receptacles with a GFCI receptacle (even though there’s no grounding wire) or just add a GFCI circuit breaker in the panel box?and how many GFCI breakers would I need ??I have the main panel box and a sub panel box .home was built in 1957…im so confused with all this grounding GFCI stuff but I need my home to be safe
Unless your main electrical panel has been replaced with a modem one, most likely there's no GFCI breaker available in your case. Short of a complete rewiring, GFCI receptacles are the only option.
Bro just bumped into ur channel, thabk you so much....
Thank you so much!
Is those more cost effective than replacing all outlets on the same circuit GFCI outlets?
Making each outlet as a single location GFCI outlet is more expensive but arguably better so that if one outlet trips, the entire circuit doesn't trip.
If you're changing a downstream protected circuit to make that GFCI only single location protected, it'll likely be against code if you do that. In every state I've lived places like a kitchen or garage need all outlets protected by GFCI, per code. Some homes do this with one GFCI protecting everything downstream from it (not single location like shown here). In those situations, it would be wired differently than this.
When I've run my own circuits (all permitted), I do all single-location GFCI protected outlets. It's slightly more complex wiring pigtailling at each location and it's significantly more expensive, but it's the most reliable circuit.
Forgive me but are you recommending I use pigtails on every plug or switch I install? I normally wire directly to to wall wiring.
No worries! It’s your choice either way works 👍🏽😊
Is it ok to just run the new outlet directly to the load side of the old outlet? Rather than make pigtails all going into the line? Hope that makes sense lol.
Yes you can do that if you want the downstream outlet to switch off when the gfci trips. Effectively that makes the downstream outlet protected by gfci.
This great information is very much appreciated 👍
Romex pliers highly suggest you imvest in one instead of making box cutter cuts into the jacket potentially slicing up the conductor
I installed a GFCI outlet and the little green LED light is on. So I assume it's supplying power. Yet when I plug in an appliance it gets now power. What does this mean?
I have existing GFCI outlet in the patio. I would like to add another outlet in the patio using power source from existing GFCI. Do you recommend the new outlet to be another GFCI or regular (not protected) outlet? Thank you.
Is it true that GFCI outlet can't protect other outlets
It can protect other outlets in the same circuit 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHousebut the wiring needs to be connected to the load side of the gfci. This should be made clear in the video or in another video.
I have an outlet in my bathroom, no GFCI. Can I add a GFCI using the wires from that outlet for a bidet? Thank you so much for your help.
When do u use the load screws on gfi receptacle?
when you want to protect the downstream outlets on the same circuit.
what if my line was coming from the non protected outlet?
Not supposed to pigtail off a gfci Mr. Man
Please read the code book
Hey question, why would you NOT have the 2nd outlet protected by the GFCI?!! Outside of that I love your videos.
I would think because like he said if the GFCI is by the sink and the other outlet, it’s not then it doesn’t really need to be protected, especially by code, so he wired it as a parallel circuit so if the GFCI guess what it will short out, but won’t affect the rest of the circuit.
Hello, thank you for this video, it is exactly what I was looking for. In my garage I have a GFCI that is on the other side of the garage from the sink. Unfortunately for me the GFCI is the outlet closest to my Landscape Irrigation timer thus when it trips (and it has when I was out of the country) my landscaping & grass was almost dead from the Texas heat.
Would it be possible to put the GFCI & the other outlet in a double gang box?
I really would like to pull power from this GFCI and add another outlet in an upper cabinet so that I can plug in my battery chargers out of sight.
What exactly made the non-gfci outlet not protected under the gfci receptacle? Because the gfci was pigtailed?
Exactly and because the none gfci wasn’t connected to the gfci outlet
Excellent video....this did not fix my issue with the load of the GFCI tripping my plug, but it is very well done.
No enough power, faulty wiring or whatever you have plugged in is messed up. Sometimes rope lights will trip the plug if one bulb goes bad and is either getting wet or is just bad
Do you weaken the wood when you drill a hole through it?
Anytime you drill through anything it will weaken, as long as you comply with code 👍🏽😊
Hi, great video!
At about 6:25 you specify connecting to the line side, not the load side. Could you explain that. What is line side, what is load side. Why use one and not the other.
Thanks
you can think of the as entrances exits. Not a perfect analogy but it will work. The line side is the “entrance” - the wires that will supply electricity to the outlet. The load is the “exit” you can add more outlets after the gfci and they will be protected by the gfci. Which means you will also shut off everything that is attached to the load side when the interrupt is tripped. This can be good if you have multiple outlets on a countertop near a sink. They don’t all need to be gfci and still be protected when they branch off of the load side. If you have outlets and lights in other rooms that are down the branch though, every time it trips you will shut those off too which can be frustrating, that is when you would not use the load side.
Ur channel is fuego 🔥 my guy👍🏼.
Thank you 🙏🏽! Gracias! 🙏🏽😊
Can I ad a light bulb after the outlet
Extremely well done and shown.
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Could've installed without the pig tails though, hence the 2 holes per screw for this reason.
Very helpful video, thanks
what if the GFCI isn't turning off the other outlets in the circuit?
That’s why he pigtailed it. And to answer your question they will be live. Need to hit the breaker at the panel. If he ran it up though the top two screws then the other outlets after or down stream will not receive power
Thank you, that’s really helpful !
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊 thank you for watching 👍🏽!
my husband was just talking about this
Perfect timing! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Do i have to pigtail?
Why would you want to bypass the GFCI to the next outlet..
GFCI is designed to be a sensitive breaker 3 to 4 milliamps, so it trips before the breaker in the main panel does..
The way you have it, the outlet will trip the breaker in the panel and then both of these will be off anyway..
If the outlets in the bathroom are tied into the GFCI, than they all follow code.
A gfci receptacle is not a circuit breaker and only detects small current leakage, then trips. It does not detect short or over loaded circuits.
An example I can think of is if you have a freezer downstream of the GFCI. The GFCI may be near a sink where it is required, but you don’t want it tripping and ruining your food.
🇵🇭
I would like to know what this purpose of this video is. There are very few situations where you would want to do this without violating code, and by the comments people are confused by what you even did.
You are the first who asked this question on the comments sir.
He makes it quite clear: code requires GFCI protection for outlets within 6ft of the wet space. If the outlet is further than 6ft then you may want it to remain powered even when the GGCI pops. He demonstrated that, and he pointed out such a downstream outlet would have to be more than 6ft from the wet space. Perhaps he could have put one of his flags to emphasize that, in case someone didn't watch the entire video carefully to understand all of the points he makes.
@@douglasmoore9918 Residencial code requires all receptacles in a kitchen to be GFI protected. Also in residential code, kitchen circuit and bathroom circuits are dedicated, so if you are adding receptacles to the circuit they should be GFI protected. This channel seems to be dedicated to Residentail DIY work, however somethings should not be done DIY. Some of the comments are people talking about adding receptacles in their kitchen, this video would not apply to them, however when he responded to the comment he made no mention of that.
@Jonathan Chamblee I see your point that the circumstance for this type of arrangement would be rare. In my case, I'm planning to put a wash sink in the corner of a work room. I'm thinking of GFCI protecting outlets within 6 feet but use his technique to power the ones further away. Would that be a bad thing? I'm worried that running a large printer, paper, etcher, or such would pop the GGCI?
@@DrivebySermons what about an outlet for a refrigerator that says not to be plugged into gfci?