This has to be one of the best video's, excellent instructions and very clearly presented. I love your instructional mock up, nicely constructed. When you run power to light first, this is a switch loop because the power comes to the light, then to the switch and back to the light. Perfectly fine to do. The third method is the best way to do a switch loop because it leaves a neutral wire in the switch box and is a code requirement. Can you show 3 way and 4 way switch wiring? A split receptacle where one is controlled by a switch and the other is live all the time would also be useful.
Thank you so much for the thoughtful comment and appreciating the video! It took a long time to compose and edit 😅. I’m so glad you found it useful and thank you for mentioning and explaining the switch loop power travel points! 🙏🏽 I will definitely be making a video on a 3 way, Please stay tuned! Thank you for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
@@erichsh58 That's a good question. It does not function at this time, however it has been a requirement by the NEC since 2011 because it's usually necessary for a possible future upgrade to a Wi-Fi switch dimmer. Another incidental advantage is that if you want to add a new receptacle nearby, you can tap into this switch for power.
This is the best video describing these procedures that I have seen. Im glad you didn't have music playing, just straight to the point. Very well done.
Dude, this explains everything. Added an exhaust fan to my mom's restroom. Breaker kept tripping. Now I know. It's wired end of run. I thought I had seen a white wire connected to the black wire when I removed the old ceiling heater. Thanks a bunch. Now to crawl back into that hot Texas summer attic.
Your explanation of the “end of run single pole” helped me a lot. I had one wired like this and couldn’t figure out why there was a white and black on the switch and only one wire in the outlet box. This helped tremendously!
I literally had the same problem for 5+ years and just learned that 3rd option. I know enough to do minor stuff myself, so I refused to pay an electrician. You explained it better than I could. Thank you too
I was looking for info on how to wire in a Buster & Punch light switch in my renovated toilet. This video taught me everything the instruction manual of the switch didn't. It taught me the difference (and existence of) middle-of-run and end-of-run type wiring. I pulled the extra ground wire I learned I needed, I learned about the amazing wago clips (love em!) and I successfully installed the toilet light in one go even with a slight feel of confidence! Many, many thanks for your crystal clear & thorough instructions. Subscribed!
This helped a lot! I appreciated understanding the 3 methods of wiring a switch. This helped me understanding the wiring of some existing circuits in my home.
Watched many videos. This is by far the very best. You made no assumptions that we have any knowledge of electrical wiring and did a superb job explaining. I am a teacher myself and my methodology has always been “assume there is zero knowledge from the audience and lead them through knowledge every step of the way”. This is a great review for those who already know something and excellent teaching for those who know nothing. Everyone wins. Great job!
This was super useful. I had one to change and thought I knew what to do but was nervous about attempting it until I checked that what I thought was correct was the right way to do it. Would never have attempted it if I had not watched this first and all went well. Many thanks.
As always, making it look so easy. Thanks for sharing. I do wish Builders would ask their Painters to NOT paint over the wiring near outlets, during a new build. That in itself causes problems for the home owner, trying to determine if a cable is truly white or black. Yes, a tester helps. But...
Thank you so much! Yes I find over spray a lot inside j box and texture as well. Just very frustrating trying to clean inside the box and like what you said trying to determine the cables. 😣 thank you for watching my friend!
I really really enjoyed your video. In my younger days I could wire a switch no problem. Now that I’m up in age I had forgotten how to wire a switch 😊. I watched other videos which were not as detailed as you video, plus you take time to explain each step and spoke slowly enough that my old ears could hear and understand exactly what to do. I am subscribing to your channel and ringing the bell. Thank you so much. Excellent video.
Im building a room and had some outlets added and wanted a light switch installed. Electrician ran the lines but due to lack of studs he didnt install the switch. 1 week later he ghosted me. Idiot never connected the line. This video saved me a few hundred. Thank you!
I have watched a number of videos on single pole and 3 way connections and this is by far the best video I have seen with great explanations. Thank you
Excellent instruction. Appreciate the methodical review. Two comments: 1. I would mention the advantage of doing the third method using the 14/3 future proofs the switch box by providing the neutral which is needed for many smart switches. 2. I would also mention that you can wire the 1-way switch reversed (ground stays the same) and it will work just fine. If you come across the reversed wiring in a renovation, it’s not wrong. The Line Hot wire (power from the source) and Load wire (feeding power to the fixture) can go on either brass screw on a 1-way switch. That was a source of confusion for me when I ran into this.
good comments, since this is the question in my mind. However, about point 2, I can not agree with you. 1. when the switch is off, the switch should keep the power out of the switch as much as possible. 2. in your case, if the next electrician wanna replace the switch, he needs more work to confirm which is which. so its better to wire it correctly and uniformly at the beginning.
@@yuchuanwei I also found the video to be top notch. I do have a related question to the above - in method #1 the hot wire was connected to the top screw. In methods #2 and #3 the hot wire was connected to the bottom screw. Is that because it's an end run configuration?
very good video for beginner like me, cristal clear and excellent explanation, very good zoom in close up to see all the wire one of the best video with excellent detail and set up, thank you so very much for your excellent work! 👍👍👍👍👍
Honestly I have been watching few videos about this. But the guys doesn’t really show and explain. The process. Like you do. . This way explaining and showing the way you do I like it. And I’m going to subscribe. Great video.
Dude you are Saving a lots of money. I am learning to much from your videos. I hope you keep doing this helping people like me don't know anything about electrician job. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Incredibly helpful in analyzing some wiring I just ran into for a ceiling fan circuit done by people who didn't believe in taping neutral wires.... Thank you!!!
You sir did a great video and great explanation of how to do these 3 ways to wire a light to a single pole switch. Your arrows showing the power and the wires you used left no doubt how to do this wiring. Also great job on explaining the types of electrical boxes used for different types of applications on the job. Please keep doing these types of videos the same way you did it here. A big THANK YOU !!!
Nice job. I'm someone who recently became interested in learning electricity. Have you thought about doing a video in which you teach basic stuff such as: what/how the line, neutral, and return lines are used?
OH man! this young man just taught this old guy or let me say refreshed my memory on doing electrical work, as I don't do much of it anymore and really never did except a few outlets and lights and such...but he makes it so you truly understand what' he's doing...thank you so much for this video...I did hit the subscribe button too...Peace to you and yours
In method 2 the white wire is not a neutral. It is a hot. The function should be described, not confused with the color. It is also not code compliant anymore and should not be shown. The cable hanging out of the bottom of the switch should have also be secured to the stud.
First thing I noticed too, wonder if he's in a local jurisdiction that doesn't uses the lastest NEC. Regardless, it is best practice to now put neutral in switches boxes to allow for modern smart switches that require neutrals.
Thank you so much! Yes it does get a little bit confusing at first, but after a few times analyzing it becomes quite clear 🙏🏽😊, thank you so much for watching!
Thank you for making this as easy as possible, please keep sharing your knowledge, I was able to do this myself, you made made it seem so simple thanks again!!
Kudos!!!!! Excellent video for all DIY'ers. This is the best video I have seen on installing switches. They way you explained and demonstrated things are awesome. Superb skills.
Great video! Very detailed and clear descriptions. Thanks very much. I do have a question. Can you explain the logic of attaching the power source hot wire to the top switch lug on the "middle-of-run" example verses attaching the source hot wire to the bottom switch lug on the "end-of-run" example?
Ground, neutral, hot. It's a good habit to always hook up your devices in that order. Reverse when removing a device (hot, neutral, ground). Treat every circuit like it's live when working on it.
Hello, I have and end of run in my barn which is the second method you showed. My white is hot. I have a single pole switch outlet combo. I tried to rewire it a few years ago so the outlet was always hot instead of switched. I couldn't figure it out and then found your video. I have the light switch working, but can't get the outlet to work. I have the white(hot) jumpered to the switch and outlet. The only thing I have hooked to the outlet is hot and ground. No power. What am I missing? I think I figured it out. If I want the outlet to be hot all the time I need to wire it the third way, picking up the neutral for the outlet? I am missing a neutral to the outlet. Is this why it's not working? Could you do a video on how to wire end of run light switch, outlet combo with outlet hot all the time. I can't find any videos showing this setup.
This is a very helpful video! Thank you for sharing this. I have a question that I hope you can send me in the right direction or maybe it is a topic you have covered before. I want to wire an end of run switch for multiple light troffers. I am thinking the second sample in this video only turn the last light in the daisy chain on and off. Have you covered that scenario or can you point me in the right direction? I'm having trouble finding a diagram for that kind of layout. Thanks again!
Dammm i almost burn the house down playing Mr. Wanna be electrician. Kill the braker and lost an entire day messing with getting a light switch to turn a simple light. This man needs a Nobel prize award. Awesome job, electric 101 for the dummy in me. Thanks mahal
Wow! What an awesome video. I'm so glad I watched it. The persons(s) ( can't call them electricians) who wired my house did a terrible job, I should have taken pictures.
Well it was a pretty good video. Like mentioned before when connecting to the terminals on the switch it doesn't matter which one is on which screw. But if you're a real professional you know that on any electrical disconnect the line(power in ) goes on the top of the disconnect and the load(light bulb) , in goes on the bottom. So in a way, a light switch can be considered a disconnect so just to stay consistent put your power in on top and power out on bottom. Rather than calling the wires power in and power out the real electricians refer to power in as the hot wire because that's the one that will shock you if you have to work on an energized circuit, and the one on the bottom that goes from the switch to the light is referred to as the "switch leg" because it is the one that is switched on and off. Now when power comes in at the light, if you are just using 2 wire Romex, you are correct to mark the white wire black with a wrap of tape, but most guys use the black magic marker and color it completely or make a stripe or two. Now it doesn't matter if you send power (hot) down to the switch on either the marked wire or the black wire. Well be consistent. At the light where the power source comes in connect that black wire to the black wire going down to the switch. The white wire with the black tape is now the switch leg. It will connect to the black wire coming off the fixture. So at the light fixture the white wire with the black marking is bringing power to the light and the other white wire in the box is connected to the white wire from the source which is the neutral wire. By doing it this way you know that the black wire at the switch is always hot and the marked white wire is the switch leg going to the light bulb. So we mark the white wire for 2 reasons. One is to identify it as a current carrying conductor and the other and most important is to identify it as a switch leg. So now you don't have to guess which wire is hot and which wire is switched. You won't have to use a volt meter or ticker or continuity tester. You know the black will be the hot and connects to the top screw on the switch.
This video is probably the best I have seen at explaining this well done! I have a question. If I am wiring like the second option but I have multiple lights between the first light and the switch would the only light that needed a three way be the last light before the switch? Thanks for your help.
This is a great video! Thank you. Do you have a video on how to add a switch for a light fixture that doesnt have a switch..I have to go to the breaker to turn it off and on for lights to work..do you have a video for this? Thank you
If you follow the NEC 2020 code, 2020 NEC 404.2(c), switches controlling lighting loads shall have a neutral in the box to allow for smart switches. Method 1 or 3 is required to meet the new code. Don't use method 2 anymore. Any new work or remodels should follow the new codes or whatever is mandated by local jurisdiction.
While the instructional value of this video is great, it's equally valuable for folks out there who point out issues of serious concern (the updated NEC). New dimmers from Lutron that are controllable from a internet connected "smart" bridge need the neutral to be able to work. I will abandon method two because of this as I am installing the Caseta dimmers in my kitchen.
@Steve W Great joke if intentional. If not, a smart switch is a switch that communicates using various wireless protocols to control power on/off, dimming, and actions remotely or at a set time. These actions can include setting a light to on/off, dim to a certain point, or make a ceiling fan turn on or off if the temperature inside or outside reaches a setpoint. This can
@Steve W this switch can be controlled via 1) phone app, through a, 2) hub device connected to your home network ((WIFI, ethernet) or bluetooth, or other) or 3) the switch itself, 4) or even a secondary "scene switch" with pre-programmed button button press actions. Very cool and helpful stuff in the right use case.
This is great. Easy, clean explanation. I have a question for you that I hope you can address! What about when daisy-chaining 6 recessed LED lights together, but also working with and end-of-run switch? Do I just do this at one end (where power goes to FIRST light?) or do I need to connect every light differently to each other? Thank you!
Having issues troubleshooting an end of run switch that also powers another switch to a different light fixture. I can get either loop to work individually, but not both simultaneously. Pretty sure the correct use of the common (marked hot) power source wire is where I am getting confused. Any advice?
What I need is wiring a light switch into the middle of a run. Specifically, I am adding an undercabinet light which has no switch on it. These are new cabinets that are on a wall that I opened up in order to add a 3-gang box of outlets down line from a light switch to a ceiling light. The new switch is to go between the existing switch and the outlets. Do you already have a video covering this option? Thanks.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This has to be one of the best video's, excellent instructions and very clearly presented. I love your instructional mock up, nicely constructed. When you run power to light first, this is a switch loop because the power comes to the light, then to the switch and back to the light. Perfectly fine to do. The third method is the best way to do a switch loop because it leaves a neutral wire in the switch box and is a code requirement.
Can you show 3 way and 4 way switch wiring? A split receptacle where one is controlled by a switch and the other is live all the time would also be useful.
Thank you so much for the thoughtful comment and appreciating the video! It took a long time to compose and edit 😅. I’m so glad you found it useful and thank you for mentioning and explaining the switch loop power travel points! 🙏🏽 I will definitely be making a video on a 3 way, Please stay tuned! Thank you for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Also I will create a video on a split receptacle 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I don't understand the purpose of the neutral wire in that third example since it's not connected to anything at one end.
@@erichsh58 That's a good question. It does not function at this time, however it has been a requirement by the NEC since 2011 because it's usually necessary for a possible future upgrade to a Wi-Fi switch dimmer. Another incidental advantage is that if you want to add a new receptacle nearby, you can tap into this switch for power.
You the best bro....
This is the best video describing these procedures that I have seen.
Im glad you didn't have music playing, just straight to the point.
Very well done.
I’ve watched several tutorials today, and this is by far the best explained.
With your recaps, and keeping it simple, sets you apart !
Dude, this explains everything. Added an exhaust fan to my mom's restroom. Breaker kept tripping. Now I know. It's wired end of run. I thought I had seen a white wire connected to the black wire when I removed the old ceiling heater. Thanks a bunch. Now to crawl back into that hot Texas summer attic.
Your explanation of the “end of run single pole” helped me a lot. I had one wired like this and couldn’t figure out why there was a white and black on the switch and only one wire in the outlet box. This helped tremendously!
I literally had the same problem for 5+ years and just learned that 3rd option. I know enough to do minor stuff myself, so I refused to pay an electrician. You explained it better than I could. Thank you too
I was looking for info on how to wire in a Buster & Punch light switch in my renovated toilet. This video taught me everything the instruction manual of the switch didn't. It taught me the difference (and existence of) middle-of-run and end-of-run type wiring. I pulled the extra ground wire I learned I needed, I learned about the amazing wago clips (love em!) and I successfully installed the toilet light in one go even with a slight feel of confidence! Many, many thanks for your crystal clear & thorough instructions. Subscribed!
This helped a lot! I appreciated understanding the 3 methods of wiring a switch. This helped me understanding the wiring of some existing circuits in my home.
Watched many videos. This is by far the very best. You made no assumptions that we have any knowledge of electrical wiring and did a superb job explaining. I am a teacher myself and my methodology has always been “assume there is zero knowledge from the audience and lead them through knowledge every step of the way”. This is a great review for those who already know something and excellent teaching for those who know nothing. Everyone wins. Great job!
This was super useful. I had one to change and thought I knew what to do but was nervous about attempting it until I checked that what I thought was correct was the right way to do it. Would never have attempted it if I had not watched this first and all went well. Many thanks.
By far the BEST video I have seen!!! Very thorough and detailed. This is definitely great for DIY dummies like me. Again, OUTSTANDING video!!!
As always, making it look so easy. Thanks for sharing.
I do wish Builders would ask their Painters to NOT paint over the wiring near outlets, during a new build. That in itself causes problems for the home owner, trying to determine if a cable is truly white or black. Yes, a tester helps. But...
Thank you so much! Yes I find over spray a lot inside j box and texture as well. Just very frustrating trying to clean inside the box and like what you said trying to determine the cables. 😣 thank you for watching my friend!
I really really enjoyed your video. In my younger days I could wire a switch no problem. Now that I’m up in age I had forgotten how to wire a switch 😊. I watched other videos which were not as detailed as you video, plus you take time to explain each step and spoke slowly enough that my old ears could hear and understand exactly what to do. I am subscribing to your channel and ringing the bell.
Thank you so much. Excellent video.
A just want to say..Awesome video ...very easy to follow.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Im building a room and had some outlets added and wanted a light switch installed. Electrician ran the lines but due to lack of studs he didnt install the switch. 1 week later he ghosted me. Idiot never connected the line. This video saved me a few hundred. Thank you!
I have watched a number of videos on single pole and 3 way connections and this is by far the best video I have seen with great explanations. Thank you
Thank you so much for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Excellent instruction. Appreciate the methodical review. Two comments: 1. I would mention the advantage of doing the third method using the 14/3 future proofs the switch box by providing the neutral which is needed for many smart switches. 2. I would also mention that you can wire the 1-way switch reversed (ground stays the same) and it will work just fine. If you come across the reversed wiring in a renovation, it’s not wrong. The Line Hot wire (power from the source) and Load wire (feeding power to the fixture) can go on either brass screw on a 1-way switch. That was a source of confusion for me when I ran into this.
good comments, since this is the question in my mind.
However, about point 2, I can not agree with you. 1. when the switch is off, the switch should keep the power out of the switch as much as possible. 2. in your case, if the next electrician wanna replace the switch, he needs more work to confirm which is which. so its better to wire it correctly and uniformly at the beginning.
@@yuchuanwei I also found the video to be top notch. I do have a related question to the above - in method #1 the hot wire was connected to the top screw. In methods #2 and #3 the hot wire was connected to the bottom screw. Is that because it's an end run configuration?
very good video for beginner like me, cristal clear and excellent explanation, very good zoom in close up to see all the wire
one of the best video with excellent detail and set up, thank you so very much for your excellent work! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank so much! I’m glad I was able help! You just made my day! Many many thanks! 🙏🏽😊🥰
Honestly I have been watching few videos about this. But the guys doesn’t really show and explain. The process. Like you do. . This way explaining and showing the way you do I like it. And I’m going to subscribe. Great video.
Thank you so much! Your support means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Dude you are Saving a lots of money. I am learning to much from your videos. I hope you keep doing this helping people like me don't know anything about electrician job. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Best electrical tutorial video!
Incredibly helpful in analyzing some wiring I just ran into for a ceiling fan circuit done by people who didn't believe in taping neutral wires.... Thank you!!!
Excellent, thorough and clear tutorial. Great job. Thank you.
Thank you so much Richard for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Very helpful! Thank you! I am slow, so I appreciate your clarity.
Thank you so much for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
You sir did a great video and great explanation of how to do these 3 ways to wire a light to a single pole switch. Your arrows showing the power and the wires you used left no doubt how to do this wiring. Also great job on explaining the types of electrical boxes used for different types of applications on the job. Please keep doing these types of videos the same way you did it here. A big THANK YOU !!!
Thank you so much for the love and support! Means a lot! Thank you for the feedback and I will definitely keep making these videos for you 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
After seeing so many vdos on connecting a light switch yours bro was the most simple, easy to understand & very well illustrated.. Thanlks for sharing
Just want to thank you for how easy this video made it to understand and hence confirm my thinking.
Hands down my man!! Totally make it easy, this is a real example of DIY !
Nice job. I'm someone who recently became interested in learning electricity.
Have you thought about doing a video in which you teach basic stuff such as: what/how the line, neutral, and return lines are used?
OH man! this young man just taught this old guy or let me say refreshed my memory on doing electrical work, as I don't do much of it anymore and really never did except a few outlets and lights and such...but he makes it so you truly understand what' he's doing...thank you so much for this video...I did hit the subscribe button too...Peace to you and yours
Best of the best video explanation, keep it up, and Thank You
Brilliant, I just done with the second method. One of the best video. Thanks
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
You’re indeed a very good teacher. Thanks a lot
Great video! Option 3 really help to understand my connection.
Glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Great videos. Please do a similar video showing a single pole switch with multiple light fixtures.
Thanks for the video. It help me solve my problem. I tried to watch other videos but yours is the one that solved it. Thanks again
In method 2 the white wire is not a neutral. It is a hot. The function should be described, not confused with the color. It is also not code compliant anymore and should not be shown.
The cable hanging out of the bottom of the switch should have also be secured to the stud.
First thing I noticed too, wonder if he's in a local jurisdiction that doesn't uses the lastest NEC. Regardless, it is best practice to now put neutral in switches boxes to allow for modern smart switches that require neutrals.
Perfectly described and explained I think after watching a few more times I’ll understand it completely I’m catching on .
Thank you so much! Yes it does get a little bit confusing at first, but after a few times analyzing it becomes quite clear 🙏🏽😊, thank you so much for watching!
🥵🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯 I had to watch it 5 times to understand it. Thanks for your videos 👍🏼👍🏼
Please make a video about that white wire becoming hot why it is hot
Will do! Please stay tuned!
Your such a great teacher.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽
Thank you so much for your videos. This makes me so much more comfortable working with wiring.
Thank you for making this as easy as possible, please keep sharing your knowledge, I was able to do this myself, you made made it seem so simple thanks again!!
Kudos!!!!! Excellent video for all DIY'ers. This is the best video I have seen on installing switches. They way you explained and demonstrated things are awesome. Superb skills.
Thank you so much for the kind words! I’m glad I was able to present it clearly and for you to understand 🙏🏽😊
Clear & simple instructions. Thank you 👍🏻
Thank you very much. I like the plastic connectors, instead of the twist caps.
Wago 221
Thank you! Yes love those WAGO’s their super easy to use! You don’t have to worry about the wires if they are secured together. 👍🏽😊
This is great for beginners like me. Thanks again for putting this together!
Great video! Very detailed and clear descriptions. Thanks very much. I do have a question. Can you explain the logic of attaching the power source hot wire to the top switch lug on the "middle-of-run" example verses attaching the source hot wire to the bottom switch lug on the "end-of-run" example?
THIS VIDEO IS A WINNER FOR ME AND A DIY
Thank you so much! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Ground, neutral, hot. It's a good habit to always hook up your devices in that order. Reverse when removing a device (hot, neutral, ground).
Treat every circuit like it's live when working on it.
Hello, I have and end of run in my barn which is the second method you showed. My white is hot. I have a single pole switch outlet combo. I tried to rewire it a few years ago so the outlet was always hot instead of switched. I couldn't figure it out and then found your video. I have the light switch working, but can't get the outlet to work. I have the white(hot) jumpered to the switch and outlet. The only thing I have hooked to the outlet is hot and ground. No power. What am I missing?
I think I figured it out. If I want the outlet to be hot all the time I need to wire it the third way, picking up the neutral for the outlet? I am missing a neutral to the outlet. Is this why it's not working? Could you do a video on how to wire end of run light switch, outlet combo with outlet hot all the time. I can't find any videos showing this setup.
@@clover3930 I figured it out. It was set up as the ground wire as the neutral.
I love your work. Keep teaching us it's very useful.
Great explanation, answered exactly what Ive been looking for 👍
Excellent video and clear to understand so just practice to make it like the easy way you do 👍
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much for the feedback 😊
This is a very helpful video! Thank you for sharing this. I have a question that I hope you can send me in the right direction or maybe it is a topic you have covered before. I want to wire an end of run switch for multiple light troffers. I am thinking the second sample in this video only turn the last light in the daisy chain on and off. Have you covered that scenario or can you point me in the right direction? I'm having trouble finding a diagram for that kind of layout. Thanks again!
You're awesome! Thank you!
Very thorough! Great explanation!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Outstanding work second to none may God Almighty continue to bless you.😊
Great 👍🏽 thanks 🙏
Thank you for watching! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Question...I'm planning to use the method #2. Can I also run another line from the power source for additional receptacle??
Great video I’m wiring my new house.
Dammm i almost burn the house down playing Mr. Wanna be electrician. Kill the braker and lost an entire day messing with getting a light switch to turn a simple light. This man needs a Nobel prize award. Awesome job, electric 101 for the dummy in me. Thanks mahal
Thank you for this video. It was explained very well and helped me figure out my issue.
Exactly what I needed, thank you.
Very Well Done! Impressive actually.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
You explain things well. I enjoy yourteaching. Thank you!
Great illustrations and I appreciate your efforts and patiencey.
Thx for this very useful video how-to, I would be lost in the re-connection when I removed a old fan fixture.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Awesome video.
Wow! What an awesome video. I'm so glad I watched it. The persons(s) ( can't call them electricians) who wired my house did a terrible job, I should have taken pictures.
Great stuff
Well it was a pretty good video. Like mentioned before when connecting to the terminals on the switch it doesn't matter which one is on which screw. But if you're a real professional you know that on any electrical disconnect the line(power in ) goes on the top of the disconnect and the load(light bulb) , in goes on the bottom. So in a way, a light switch can be considered a disconnect so just to stay consistent put your power in on top and power out on bottom. Rather than calling the wires power in and power out the real electricians refer to power in as the hot wire because that's the one that will shock you if you have to work on an energized circuit, and the one on the bottom that goes from the switch to the light is referred to as the "switch leg" because it is the one that is switched on and off. Now when power comes in at the light, if you are just using 2 wire Romex, you are correct to mark the white wire black with a wrap of tape, but most guys use the black magic marker and color it completely or make a stripe or two. Now it doesn't matter if you send power (hot) down to the switch on either the marked wire or the black wire. Well be consistent. At the light where the power source comes in connect that black wire to the black wire going down to the switch. The white wire with the black tape is now the switch leg. It will connect to the black wire coming off the fixture. So at the light fixture the white wire with the black marking is bringing power to the light and the other white wire in the box is connected to the white wire from the source which is the neutral wire. By doing it this way you know that the black wire at the switch is always hot and the marked white wire is the switch leg going to the light bulb. So we mark the white wire for 2 reasons. One is to identify it as a current carrying conductor and the other and most important is to identify it as a switch leg. So now you don't have to guess which wire is hot and which wire is switched. You won't have to use a volt meter or ticker or continuity tester. You know the black will be the hot and connects to the top screw on the switch.
Whoa! That's a lot of info: can you simplify it a little? Thanks!
Hopefully…thank you ❤😊
Bruh? Is this your new channel? I’m like “I know this dude,the Evo guy!” Lol great stuff, glad I found this video. 🤙🏼
Yes brotha! Haha! Thank you so much bro! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
Excellent tutorial! What is the electrical code regulation for using 14/2 wired to the switch vs using 14/3?
Thank you for this video it was what I needed to learn
Can you do a video about end of run with two switches at the end. One for light and one for fan.
Thanks man very good information Thanks again
Thank you so much for watching! 😊🙏🏽
This video is probably the best I have seen at explaining this well done! I have a question. If I am wiring like the second option but I have multiple lights between the first light and the switch would the only light that needed a three way be the last light before the switch? Thanks for your help.
Very detailed. Thanks for the video G.
Anytime man! Thanks for watching! 👊🏽😊
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Can you do the (light fixture)to (switch) multiple (light fixtures)?
Excellent video. Good detailed and clear instructions. Thank you thank you thank you.
You the best bro...
Much love! Thank you 🙏🏽
Please show us how you get power to the new switch cover
This is a great video! Thank you. Do you have a video on how to add a switch for a light fixture that doesnt have a switch..I have to go to the breaker to turn it off and on for lights to work..do you have a video for this? Thank you
Thank you so much! I can make a video on this soon! Please stay tuned! 👍🏽😊
Great job. Very clear.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Thank you so much for your help good job 👍
Thank you 🙏🏽 for watching and taking your time to comment 😊🙏🏽
Thank you for this...I finally get it now! You Rock! :)
Nice info 👍
If you follow the NEC 2020 code, 2020 NEC 404.2(c), switches controlling lighting loads shall have a neutral in the box to allow for smart switches. Method 1 or 3 is required to meet the new code. Don't use method 2 anymore. Any new work or remodels should follow the new codes or whatever is mandated by local jurisdiction.
What is a "smart switch"?
While the instructional value of this video is great, it's equally valuable for folks out there who point out issues of serious concern (the updated NEC). New dimmers from Lutron that are controllable from a internet connected "smart" bridge need the neutral to be able to work. I will abandon method two because of this as I am installing the Caseta dimmers in my kitchen.
@Steve W Great joke if intentional. If not, a smart switch is a switch that communicates using various wireless protocols to control power on/off, dimming, and actions remotely or at a set time. These actions can include setting a light to on/off, dim to a certain point, or make a ceiling fan turn on or off if the temperature inside or outside reaches a setpoint. This can
@Steve W this switch can be controlled via 1) phone app, through a, 2) hub device connected to your home network ((WIFI, ethernet) or bluetooth, or other) or 3) the switch itself, 4) or even a secondary "scene switch" with pre-programmed button button press actions. Very cool and helpful stuff in the right use case.
🎉
This is great. Easy, clean explanation. I have a question for you that I hope you can address! What about when daisy-chaining 6 recessed LED lights together, but also working with and end-of-run switch? Do I just do this at one end (where power goes to FIRST light?) or do I need to connect every light differently to each other? Thank you!
Good tutorial. ALWAYS do the ground wires first. They are always the same. Do them and get them out of the way.
Thank you Roger for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
This is a great video! Thank you for making it!
Thank you so much! That really means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Having issues troubleshooting an end of run switch that also powers another switch to a different light fixture. I can get either loop to work individually, but not both simultaneously. Pretty sure the correct use of the common (marked hot) power source wire is where I am getting confused. Any advice?
Just wondering why the power went to the light box first instead of the J box in the end of run?
Great Job!!!!!!👍👍👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽
Is there a way to add another light switch to the end of run switch for a different light?
What I need is wiring a light switch into the middle of a run. Specifically, I am adding an undercabinet light which has no switch on it. These are new cabinets that are on a wall that I opened up in order to add a 3-gang box of outlets down line from a light switch to a ceiling light. The new switch is to go between the existing switch and the outlets. Do you already have a video covering this option? Thanks.
great explanation, thank you.
If you do method 2 the next guy is going to be upset he doesn't have a neutral line for his smart switch 😉
He will get to bill more.