For those who don't have a vacuum tester, remove the canister side hose from the purge solenoid valve while engine is running and check for vaccum at the port with your finger or by pouring water on it... works on any car Thanks Eli great stuff
Thanks for posting this video. Running through these steps, I found mine was bad, and now my check engine light and gas cap light are gone. Thanks again.
Quick note, the purge valve is normally closed with the key off, but while the engine is running it is pulse commanded by the ECM to achieve a steady flow of vapor recirculation, it is tested in the morning or a cold start, after sitting for so many hours, called a cold soak test. Also, if your fuel tank is between 15-85% full it will run the Evap test and either pass or fail. This has to fail twice before it will turn on the check engine light. 2 things to check, with the purge valve unplugged and disconnected it should be closed and at idle plugged in it should have an audible clicking it is working correctly. Good luck 👍
You are in reverse, the solenoid is normal closed and the ecm/pcm commands it open, it is for vacuum testing the fuel tank per epa rules on venting gasoline fumes, if the purge valve starts sticking in the open position you will have rich o2 codes, rough running/ stalling after fueling and p0456, hope that helps
2015 ram 1500 5.7. I have this code. Replaced the gas cap and the check engine light went off for like a month. It is back now. Also a noticeable ticking sounds happens when I start the truck up, goes away after the truck warms up. Also when the truck hasn't been started in a few days, it will crank for a good while before starting.
That ticking is just a hemi tick, it’s because the lifters get dry when she sits there. As long as the tick goes away when she warms up it’s nothing to worry about
It's not the lifters I just had to replace the manifolds on mine, your manifold bolts are broken and need replacing and your manifold has warped hence the broken bolts
The cranking thing too, turn your key to on and let the fuel pump prime, turn it off and put to on position again let it prime and then start it. If it starts right up it'd the check valve on the fuel pumo failing, I'm on my third one in 250k miles all OEM all had same problem. Been looking into putting my own check valve in line
Yes, there is times when both codes will set, large and small evap leak. Regarding your fuel gauge, most likely a cluster or fuel level sensor on your fuel pump.
Be careful. Sometimes when you replace a part and that was not the problem it takes a long time for the code to come back especially when its a small leak at the fuel pump , until it's worse. That is actually the most common cause 2007-2009 Sonatas. When my mechanic replaced mine he insisted on using OEM because he had too many comebacks on aftermarkets with altered design.
I have a 2015 Dodge ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, I have changed the purge control valve, gas cap, Vapor leak detection pump and I'm still getting The small vapor leak code Don't know where to go from here
You might have a bad seal lip on the fuel neck that sips fuel vapor. You should have your evap system smoke tested. These small leaks tend to be hard to find.
A squirrel had chewed thru my hose close to the tank and wasn’t visible until I traced my hand over entire length of hose from engine to tank and tank to canister.
I'm confused so is it suppose to leak or not leak. Mine leaks on the side that you are testing but if I pull vacuum on the other side it never drops. Also if I put my finger on the other side while applying vacuum to the side your testing it never drops.
@@EliTheOBDTech on mine it holds vacuum on the white side but doesnt hold vacuum on the black side unless my finger is over the hole on the white side. Every other evap purge solenoid video I've watched only shows pulling vacuum on the white side while yours is the opposite that's why I'm confused.
@@EliTheOBDTech I had evap small leak, evap general system fault, and evap check gas cap. I replaced the esim today because the old one had dust inside of it and if I tried to get it to hold any amount of vacuum it wouldn't. I know it opens when it gets too much vacuum but its suppose to be able to hold a small amount long enough to pass the test and it didn't want to hold anything. I think the seals inside of it had gotten dusty not allowing a perfect seal.
After watching my own video, I could say that I messed up by saying that the CAN port (black port) should not hold vacuum. It should hold vacuum. This is a normally closed valve.
@@EliTheOBDTech I've got a 2011 Ram 1500 with the same code. The Purge valve is a bit different on here but I would have thought with the engine off it should have the valve closed, meaning if you apply vacuum from the manifold side it holds the vacuum. Is there any way I can be sure its this purge valve and not the leak detection pump? Thanks
@@theseasonedveteran Yes, you are correct, valve is normally close. After reviewing my video, I actually found a mistake. When applying vacuum to the CAN port, the vacuum should hold and not leak down. In my video, I said the opposite, which is not correct. I'm not familiar with these newer leak detection pumps, but I have a video showing you how to test the older style (NVLD) on a 2004 dodge ram 1500. You can try and use this method and see if it works.
Oh ok thanks bro for the reply! I’m having an issue with a p0456 replace a cap, a leak detector pump, solenoid hoses, and checked the evap canister. Check engine light came back on with same code did another smoke test found no leaks now my only solution is to change the purge valve.
For those who don't have a vacuum tester, remove the canister side hose from the purge solenoid valve while engine is running and check for vaccum at the port with your finger or by pouring water on it... works on any car
Thanks Eli great stuff
Gotta love people who can articulate the topic with clarity. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this video. Running through these steps, I found mine was bad, and now my check engine light and gas cap light are gone.
Thanks again.
Great video man thanks for posting! I'm helping a neighbor with a P0456/P0457 right now. His truck has the 3.6L V6, but it's probably the same issue.
Quick note, the purge valve is normally closed with the key off, but while the engine is running it is pulse commanded by the ECM to achieve a steady flow of vapor recirculation, it is tested in the morning or a cold start, after sitting for so many hours, called a cold soak test. Also, if your fuel tank is between 15-85% full it will run the Evap test and either pass or fail. This has to fail twice before it will turn on the check engine light. 2 things to check, with the purge valve unplugged and disconnected it should be closed and at idle plugged in it should have an audible clicking it is working correctly. Good luck 👍
You just saved me from having a heart attack. Check engine light came on as I got to the office at work.
You are in reverse, the solenoid is normal closed and the ecm/pcm commands it open, it is for vacuum testing the fuel tank per epa rules on venting gasoline fumes, if the purge valve starts sticking in the open position you will have rich o2 codes, rough running/ stalling after fueling and p0456, hope that helps
Beat me to it
Thank yoy very much for the detailed explanation.
Thanks this helped allot I like how you keep the video simple and on task
Awesome vid. Thanks. Kept it sweet and simple
Great video very helpful
Thanks!
I had this P0456 issue on my Ram 1500 (its not a Dodge). As soon as that was replaced the no more problems!
Thanks for the heads up 👍on not being a Dodge.
Was your cab smelling like fuel before you changed the part?
2015 ram 1500 5.7. I have this code. Replaced the gas cap and the check engine light went off for like a month. It is back now. Also a noticeable ticking sounds happens when I start the truck up, goes away after the truck warms up. Also when the truck hasn't been started in a few days, it will crank for a good while before starting.
You may have faulty evap purge valve.
That ticking is just a hemi tick, it’s because the lifters get dry when she sits there. As long as the tick goes away when she warms up it’s nothing to worry about
It's not the lifters I just had to replace the manifolds on mine, your manifold bolts are broken and need replacing and your manifold has warped hence the broken bolts
The cranking thing too, turn your key to on and let the fuel pump prime, turn it off and put to on position again let it prime and then start it. If it starts right up it'd the check valve on the fuel pumo failing, I'm on my third one in 250k miles all OEM all had same problem. Been looking into putting my own check valve in line
Can this be p0455 and p0456. Also noticed my gas gage/DTE is in accurate when getting gas then fixes itself a bit after?
Yes, there is times when both codes will set, large and small evap leak.
Regarding your fuel gauge, most likely a cluster or fuel level sensor on your fuel pump.
@@EliTheOBDTech got it thank you. Would that be a separate code
@@nightowlsounds2224 yes, separate code, such as a p0463.. etc.
@@EliTheOBDTech awesome thank you. All sudden my truck showed the icon for a loose gas cap. So I'm hoping this is a confirmation that it's just that
Be careful. Sometimes when you replace a part and that was not the problem it takes a long time for the code to come back especially when its a small leak at the fuel pump , until it's worse. That is actually the most common cause 2007-2009 Sonatas. When my mechanic replaced mine he insisted on using OEM because he had too many comebacks on aftermarkets with altered design.
Yes, I would agree, thanks. Luckily this vehicle just had a faulty evap purge valve.
I have a 2015 Dodge ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, I have changed the purge control valve, gas cap, Vapor leak detection pump and I'm still getting The small vapor leak code Don't know where to go from here
You might have a bad seal lip on the fuel neck that sips fuel vapor. You should have your evap system smoke tested. These small leaks tend to be hard to find.
A squirrel had chewed thru my hose close to the tank and wasn’t visible until I traced my hand over entire length of hose from engine to tank and tank to canister.
Great information...
Thanks!
Could this code cause my idle to go up and down while parked?
Possibly if your evap purge valve is stuck open all the times, causing an internal vacuum leak.
Thanks man
Waths the name of the valve ?
Canister purge valve
I'm confused so is it suppose to leak or not leak. Mine leaks on the side that you are testing but if I pull vacuum on the other side it never drops. Also if I put my finger on the other side while applying vacuum to the side your testing it never drops.
To test the purge solenoid, apply 10 in. Hg to the "CAN" side of the Evap purge solenoid. It should hold vacuum.
@@EliTheOBDTech on mine it holds vacuum on the white side but doesnt hold vacuum on the black side unless my finger is over the hole on the white side. Every other evap purge solenoid video I've watched only shows pulling vacuum on the white side while yours is the opposite that's why I'm confused.
@@gabrielq.906 Do you have a p0456?
@@EliTheOBDTech I had evap small leak, evap general system fault, and evap check gas cap. I replaced the esim today because the old one had dust inside of it and if I tried to get it to hold any amount of vacuum it wouldn't. I know it opens when it gets too much vacuum but its suppose to be able to hold a small amount long enough to pass the test and it didn't want to hold anything. I think the seals inside of it had gotten dusty not allowing a perfect seal.
After watching my own video, I could say that I messed up by saying that the CAN port (black port) should not hold vacuum. It should hold vacuum. This is a normally closed valve.
Thanks brother!
You're more than welcome!
@@EliTheOBDTech I've got a 2011 Ram 1500 with the same code. The Purge valve is a bit different on here but I would have thought with the engine off it should have the valve closed, meaning if you apply vacuum from the manifold side it holds the vacuum. Is there any way I can be sure its this purge valve and not the leak detection pump? Thanks
@@theseasonedveteran Yes, you are correct, valve is normally close. After reviewing my video, I actually found a mistake. When applying vacuum to the CAN port, the vacuum should hold and not leak down. In my video, I said the opposite, which is not correct. I'm not familiar with these newer leak detection pumps, but I have a video showing you how to test the older style (NVLD) on a 2004 dodge ram 1500. You can try and use this method and see if it works.
@@theseasonedveteranHere is link of the video.
ua-cam.com/video/IxLtpZNoCOQ/v-deo.html
Here is another link I found on UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/j-RkxUAeqy8/v-deo.html
So was that the cause for the p0456? Or did it come back
That was the cause for p0456
Thanks also was that your only leak?
@@joedirt5072 if I could recall, p0441 became another problem after 2 weeks which was a faulty NVLD that was causing a leak aswell.
Oh ok thanks bro for the reply! I’m having an issue with a p0456 replace a cap, a leak detector pump, solenoid hoses, and checked the evap canister. Check engine light came back on with same code did another smoke test found no leaks now my only solution is to change the purge valve.
@@joedirt5072Those pesky EVAP codes can be a pain in the butt!!! Hopefully, the purge solves your problem.
I have changed the gas cap last year. I have this code again. I might have a small leak somewhere.
Possibly your next component that might be causing your small leak, purge valve.
Will a bad purge valve cause my eco mode to be disabled . Mine is a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500
If your check engine light is on, most likely yes.