Just a reminder to everyone, follow your manufacturer’s recommendation on oil change intervals. If it says to change it every 5-6k miles, then do it. If something goes wrong with your engine and you tell them that you put the one year engine oil, you just voided the warranty. Thank you Eric for posting the results, been waiting a whole year for this. Thumbs up. Stay dirty.
Mini Cooper S 2008 - user manual says to change oil every 2 years or 15k miles. Not a good idea for me. People stuck to it and then everyone says this engine is a piece of shit, but that's whole another topic.
@@aciddiver1978Yeah you're just making that up. You're throwing away perfectly good oil then- if you don't believe me just send it in for analysis and they'll tell you it's basically identical to unused oil, it's like $35 all in for a test
@@SuperMrgentleman they're not going to test their oil..because if they do (and they should) they'll lose their 'philosophical mechanic edge' and become just regular guys :)
I've had my '03 GTI VR6 for 16 years now, and am the original owner. I've been having the dealership change the oil (Castrol Syntec, then lately Castrol Edge 5W-40 fully synthetic) once a year, every summer. The car has about 89,000 miles on it, so I only put about 5,500 miles a year on it, driving mainly local on short trips. I have not had one problem or issue with the engine all these years, and still have the original timing chain. My gut is that once a year is fine running full synthetic of any kind, especially if you don't put more than 7 or 8K miles on the vehicle. I've had no oil leaks as well, and only check the dipstick maybe once or twice a year, as the 24v VR6 does not burn a noticeable amount of oil.
Correct me if I’m wrong but your extended interval caused almost 3 times more wear than the 4,000 mile oil change. Iron and aluminum were much higher. I just found same result when I took my 2022 Tahoe to 12,500 miles. TBN was fine, but wear metals are high.
Pretty amazing result considering. I'm still gonna change twice a year with synthetic. Oil is cheap, engines aren't. It's way colder over winter here in Canada too.
I had a Honda Accord which I bought from new and ran Mobil 1 oil in it with an annual filter/oil change schedule. When I retired the vehicle (due to rust and crash damage) it had done 303,000 Km (about 180,000 miles). On stripping down the engine, no perceptable lip was found on the bore and there were no other lubrication-related issues observed. The oil-pan and internals were also *very* clean, with no build-up of sludge or carbon. So how is this annual protection stuff any better than that?
I get that how dark oil is isn't the entire story on when it should be changed, but according to my calibrated eyeball scanner, that oil you drained out sure looked to be way past its prime. Analysis aside, I wouldn't be entirely comfortable knowing that stuff was sloshing around in my otherwise well-cared-for engine. I think I'll stick to regular Mobil 1 and 4K to 6K change intervals.
There was a test of Synth (regular Mobil 1) vs. conventional oil, and they sent samples off to a lab also. The results were that regular Mobil 1 was actually still in good shape at 15K. My point being that if you run regular Mobil 1 you could get very close to the year mark and be fine rather than shelling out the big bucks for the extended life oil. I change every 10K or 6 months - call it good.
people don't comprehend like at all what happened to engines in the last decades, how much tolerances and materials improved. when was the last time you saw cars in traffic trailing white smoke? engine don't wear out like your father remembers... there was a time 1 in 5 cars was burning oil at 50k miles and virtually all at 100k miles. those times are gone :)
@@duroxkiloyou clearly don't know anything about engines. Go and talk to mechanic that does rebuilds on engines. Or just follow a mechanic online. Trust me people who don't do oil changes often off. End up with engines with sludge and engines that need to be replaced.
@@PS-gr5wh lols and lols... i've seen the insides of engines before i learned to read and i've worked in my uncle's shop before i had a girlfriend, i think i've had a decent understanding on what's what for quite some time :) my younger brother is an engineer specialized in tribology and is testing key components for the engines of two european car manufacturers, i have decent sources of information for whatever engine-wear questions cross my mind... i'm not a mechanic by choice :) anyways, you do you, stay safe and have fun. ps: oil analysis and compression tests are accessible to everyone (which i enjoy as a hobby); there is zero need to second guess the modern approach to engine maintenance...
EricTheCarGuy That depends. Does this oil do its thing by somehow helping to trap the particulates in the filter? You would expect several of these contaminants to accumulate much more, so how does it actually deal with them? The filter might be one possibility.
Ehh the filter will look like any other used oil filter and its most likely all black inside. Only abnormal thing you'd see would be sludge or metal fragments and those are highly unlikely unless you have engine damage from neglect which you won't see from Eric's cars ;p
I’ve actually cut oil filters apart that had 30,000 km on them as long as your engines clean inside there is no dirt in the filter. In my opinion the oil filter will never save your engine if you don’t change oil.
I just did my own test with this oil as well, I drive a 2012 honda civic si, and I used blackstone labs as my testing ground. I found that I had increased levels of lead, iron, magnesium, boron, sodium, phosphorus, zinc, and aluminum when in comparison to Blackstone's universal averages. The most concerning number for them was the added lead content. In general they suggested that I stick to the 10K interval change of oil and it was my choice to continue using the annual protection oil. I still use annual protection today, but I will be change it at 10K miles instead of 18K which was the length between on my original test. Food for thought.
18,000 miles I’m surprised it’s running why would you do that to an si unless you were trying to find out how much damage it would cause. I’m here because I’ve only put 2000 miles on my type r in 1.5 years but don’t want to change the oil even though they say every 6 months.
I've always been comfortable running synthetic for 10k between changes. Its an easy way to remember your interval too. Just keep the oil level topped off in between. Then change your oil filter (and check your air filters) each interval also. The oil will be fine.
luilui8812 ummm Scotty already did a video on why not to use the 20,000 mile Mobile 1 oil change that Eric and EE both got paid to endorse, go search it, it was a few months back, Scotty keeps it real, the rest are sell outs now
Richard Ojeda dude they get money, thousands per sponsorship, if you watch this video thinking you were going to hear anything other than it’s great you’re stupid. ITS A SPONSORED VIDEO come on dummies 😂
I use Royal Purple oil and Purolator BOSS filters and still change my oil every 3 thousand miles. Just because an oil may last for 1 year and a filter catches almost everything that flows through it doesn't mean there's no metal wear and contamination in the oil that never goes through the filter. There's oil that passes through bypass valves instead of flowing through the oil filter. There's particles that get caught between rod bearings, crankshaft main bearings, and camshaft bearings. Changing your oil helps to dilute these contaminants out of the engine. Engines running these extended oils such as this Mobil 1 One Year Protection will not last as long as engines being maintained with normal oil change intervals of 3 to 5 thousand miles.
Top quality oil and filter just to dump it at 3k miles? What a disgrace. My 2011 dodge avenger is up to 250k miles. I’m the original owner and have always used either conventional or the low cost synthetic with mid grade filters. The oil life monitor alerts between 4.5-8k miles. That’s what I’ve always gone by, and the engine is still in good shape.
Americans really seem to have an obsession with changing the oil every five minutes, for fear that the engine will die if they don't. Here in the UK, it's absolutely standard to change oil and filter once a year at the annual service, and for most people that will be a 10-15k mileage interval. On the available evidence of tens of millions of vehicles over decades, this is absolutely fine and does not hurt the engine in any way. In 30 years of driving I've only ever changed the oil once a year and I've never had any kind of oil-related engine issues in any of my vehicles - and they've all been older high-milers. In fact, when buying a used car in the UK, if you saw from the service history that the oil had been changed every 3-5k miles, you'd probably get suspicious and ask what was wrong with the engine for it to need such frequent changes...
dunebasher1971 gasoline in the uk is far better than the ones sold in the american continent. I live in the Dominican Republic and the gas quality is garbage so oil gets dirty faster
Same here in Germany. Everybody is like "are you fucking nuts?" when I tell them I change my Oil every 15.000 km in my regular 1.8l 140Hp car. Because here it is the most normal thing to change it every 30.000 km. And this is a regular interval. If you use longlife oil, people change it every 2 years or 50.000 / 60.000 km. Thats also how it's written in the service manuals; standard is 1 year / 30.000 km, longlife interval is 2 years / 60.000 km. Also almost every used car over here with 120.000 km seems like it's toasted. Like half of the rubber sealings on the engines are gone bad and it seems like the compression is low.
There's no chance that oil will keep it's properties for over a year (2 year long life intervals on new cars, VWs especially) if ran in a real winter climate normally during the winter...
120,000km is only 74k miles, and all my previous cars in the UK have been well over 100k miles and on annual oil changes with none of the issues you refer to. My two current cars are at 115k and 100k miles with no signs of damaged seals or low compression, and this is completely as I'd expect from *any* mainstream UK car of that mileage.
if i recall correctly, Eric, you used to use generic walmart oil until you started getting sponsored by oil companies - i remember your saying the off-brand oil passed the same standards as the name brands - i guess name brand oils are better, but are they worth the diff?
If it's ILSAC GF-5 (API SN) you're getting the most modern standard of lubrication regardless of price. So, there's nothing wrong with Walmart oil, etc.
Just a tip. If you don't like Walmart oil, which I think is good oil, you can always get a deal on name brand oil, even Mobil One. Just check the web sites and see who is offering a rebate at the time. There is always one or more rebates available at any given time. I once bought a 5 quart jug of Mobil One for $5.00 after rebate.
As long as oils meet modern API and ILSAC GF-5 standards than it's all good, just slightly different additives and as long as you change the oil regularly you should be fine. It is marketing but at the same time there is some truth to that marketing and some oils do have superior cleaning abilities and tougher film strength but you won't notice them in real world driving. Only if performance is a concern.
One thing I find funny that nobody has noticed quite yet is that the oil didn't last from start to finish he had to continually add oil so that new fresh oil was being added to the already used oil in the engine . Remember he said it kept burning off . I did the same test with mine and couldn't make it on a whole year without having to add more oil to the engine because of burn off . Most engins will burn off a little oil and you will have to add oil periodically. So it wasn't actually one year old oil change of the engine continually burned off oil then by the end he would have already added a new oil change to the engine . This is why the oil sample he sent in came back good . There was fresh new oil added, it wasn't the same old oil the whole year through otherwise we would have seen different result.
I went 9 months on my 2007 Honda Civic Ex that has 123,000 miles in it. I put castrol GTX synthetic blend high mileage oil and an STP extended life oil filter. I was going to go a year, but I went 9 months. I didn’t send it to a lab, but my friend who owns a small shop for 33 years and has been changing oil since he was a kid was impressed. The oil looked and flowed like new. I was also only driving In City for those nine months. I didn’t count the mileage though 🤷♂️ it might have been 5000 around there I assume.
I've been waiting for this video! Despite the testing I still wouldn't feel comfortable going that long on an oil change, but that's more a personal preference I have than anything else. The oil did look pretty dirty too...I wouldn't be fully convinced that this is safe in the long term until a more widespread test is conducted. I change my oil every 5,000 miles personally.
I use AMSOIL Signature and had similar results. After 130,000km and 6 years of annual oil changes I can say it works great. Oil consumption was approximately 0.25L for every 20,000km on this 2009 Nissan Sentra. Sent a sample and was recommended to change 8000km later than normal.
as a builder and an enthusiast for over 5 decades at this point and having had quite some experience over the years i offer this: lubricants have become much better in certain instances but...... if you own a flat tappet engine or an earlier ohc(bucket follower type) engine(pre m.y. 2k on average) i strongly suggest that oil with zinc(zddp) be used. cam wear will be evident otherwise and wiping of the lobes can and often does occur due to use of modern oils that don't contain proper levels of zinc for these engines. the reason zinc levels have been either reduced or eliminated totally is because zinc doesn't play well with catalytic converters. the problem would be multiplied exponentially with some engines now that burn up to a quart in a thousand miles but thanks to some trick metallurgy by some manufacturers the need for zinc has lessened or has been eliminated(roller rockers-etc). before using any type of oil due diligence is required other than just reading in the manual what the mfg recommends. keep in mind that whatever the mfg suggests that you use is based upon an average users requirements and it's NOT ok to run a track day on 0w-whatever weight oil or a turbo installation that drastically increases the bearing surface stresses and heat loading on the oil. understand the requirements of your engine and oil for your driving style and keep an eye on the heat the oil is absorbing from the abuse being handed to it. don't let that oil get too hot and thin out to the point that bearing failure happens. make SURE that on the older engines that the oil contains zinc or sulphur or a combination of both. that chlorine molecule(like that in harley oil and some synthetics)is just not enough by itself. engine or cat failure....what a gamble?! me...i choose to replace cats. it's cheaper. folks with newer beemers that will suffer big end rod bearing failures should heed this warning and NEVER fire off their engines cold and romp on it right away.let the oil warm up...it will take a couple of minutes. second thought...go ahead...ignore the warning. just more work and profit margin for folks like me and my machinist if you do. :-) retired but still building the old & weird ones.... =dok=
I'm a DIY guy so I am under the hood and under the car probably every week. We have realize however that the average car owner doesn't do squat between service. They don't check fluids, inspect tires, suspension and brakes, lube locks or hinges, or even put air in tires (unless visibly flat). Once a year service is inadequate especially in climates that have severe seasons. At a minimum vehicles should be fully serviced at the beginning of summer and then at the beginning of winter and if that means an extra oil change once a year...big deal.
I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my 2007 Nissan Altima for the last 6 years along with the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter. I change my own oil every 6 months and the engine still runs great at 180k miles with no oil leaks and negligible oil consumption. I'd use pretty much any full synthetic oil in the same fashion, but you also need to use a good oil filter that can handle extended intervals. I'd consider the annual Mobil 1, but I live in the desert and worry about the dust building up in the oil that is too small to be filtered out.
The oil clearly lasts long enough for one year/20k intervals. From what I see, it has the capability to go even further. However the main concern is significantly more debris suspended in the oil. It's not the oils fault, it's just the accumulation from the extended interval. I think oil filtration should be the top trend for engine lubrication.
You definitely can, I’m getting an oil change tomorrow. December 31st 2020 will be my first oil change. January 8th 2020 is when I got the car. I put over 20,000 miles on it and it’s still in amazing shape.
The oil change interval on my current car here in the UK (a 2017 Volvo V40 2.0 D4 twin-turbo diesel) is 18,000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first, so much the same as your van covered with the Mobil1 annual protection. I personally can't figure out why oil changes need to be so frequent in the US, unless you are using poor quality oils or the vehicle is regularly used in a dirty environment. For normal road use, a year should be no problem.
The owner's manual of my Kia Sorento says I must change the oil at an interval of 3.500 miles... This is ridiculous, even more so when you consider it's a diesel. I change oil once a year.
Tradition, mostly, when it was plain ol' dinosaur squeezings. Old conventional oils broke down much faster and needed changing every 3000 miles. Also, US uses traffic lights and road designs are not the best for smooth driving at consistent speed. People here are also very chaotic in how they drive*. So we end up with lots of stop and go traffic which is harder on oil than driving long distance at steady RPM. *: I know many countries have bad drivers, but the bad behaviors tend to be consistent. Here, it is true chaos sometimes. I swear some drivers in the US got their license as a prize in their breakfast cereal.
Sebastian Conde - Can you please provide information or a link that supports your claim regarding European & American fuels having such extreme quality control differences!???
TimonNetherlands are you, as your username suggests, in the Netherlands? Or elsewhere in the world? My last car was a 2012 Kia Rio diesel, the intervals on that were 10,000 miles or a year (again, this is in the UK)
I always use full synthetic oil and change it every 10k kilometers or 6 months and never had any problem. I usually change before reaching 6 months. It's worth spending more on maintenance knowing you can keep your engine running smoothly, I wouldn't feel confident extending my oil change intervals to save a bit of money.
My 2016 ram with the 5.7 manual said to change every 8,000 miles. Im using full synthetic from walmart which is half the price at autozone and other auto part stores. $25 for 5 quarts. I buy 2 of them because my ram takes 7 quarts. $50 total for oil and $5 for oil filter which equals to $55. No light, no problems, running good. Than my next change would cost me less because I dont need to buy extra oil since I have left over so my next change would run me $30 for oil and filter total. Full synthetic and I change it myself. Every 8k miles is good for me. The oil looks decent when I change it. No chunk, not pitch black, no metallic color
Use to do my oil change every 8000/km with regular mobil1 until i started to use blackstone , was changing it way to early. I'm now doing it at 12 000k ,always nice to save some money .
Rick-jk blackstone lab testing has me up to 14k miles. Next I plan to try Pennzoil or Honda oil for 1 year or 27,000 miles. Most people haven’t taken engines past 300k miles. Most people don’t use oil lab results to determine what’s optimal for their car. The labs saved me a bunch of money and keep a close watch on my car’s engine and transmission. The haters can hate but they don’t have the data and they don’t have a Honda running past 320,000 miles.
The amsoil enthusiasts note that amsoil can get you to 6 months. They don’t seem to understand that almost any synthetic or blend can get a car to 20,000 miles or one year and can do that for at least 120,000 miles. Some of the labs have results up to 500,000 miles. The 20,000-mile interval doesn’t harm the engine but it does help a lot of things.
I'm not surprised it stood up to it. Mobil 1 is a great oil. I'm sure they did years of testing before releasing this oil. One thing to take note of though before switching to this and going the full change interval. If you are a person who sits idle in traffic for long periods of time, or like to leave the car running with the Ac or heat on when in the store shopping. Don't expect the same one year or 20,000 miles of protection. If the engine is running the oil is breaking down. An hour of idling could be equal to 70 miles of driving or even more since the oil is able to cool better while moving down the road, just idling it may actually get hotter, speeding up wear.
@@PedalTheGlobe unless you are in a very dusty climate, you would change your air filter every 30k....the dirtier a filter gets, the better it filters. The best filtering your air filter did was ths day it was removed, but a clogged filter doesn't filter anything, dirt will get by somehow some way
@@insideoutsideupsidedown2218 Doesn't matter. The cleaner filter let's the car breath more. You don't want a dirty filter. It's not filtering better. A filters real job is to let as much air through as possible while still filtering the air. A clogged filter immediately fails one of those purposes. So no, a dirty filter is not better. Just clogged.
I run Amsoil signature series 5W 30 which was actually the first oil brand to offer one year oil changes!! and it’s 100% synthetic not full synthetic there is a difference!!!
I’m 10 months (25,000 miles) into the annual challenge on Pennzoil Platinum from Jiffy Lube. We changed the filter from service champ to wix xp after 7,500 miles. I agree that most or all users should seriously consider the 1-year interval, after the car has reached 70k miles. May every engine reach a million miles!
With almost 400,000 miles on my ol f150 I I might give this a whirl. I started my truck off On motorcraft then went to royal purple 5w20 for 290+k miles. At 300,000 I switched to mobile 1 due to cost, the royal purple was crowding 10 Dollars a quart. 340,000 she's still clicking right along with Mobile 1. I Change my oil every 5-7k miles And the oil is Clean when I drain it so I see the Benifits of the 1 year oil. Stay filthy my friend.
THEMOWERMEDIC1 THE SMALL ENGINE SPECIALIST I would send the oil to a lab to check the conditions of the motor first. Personally, with a truck with that many miles, I would just keep doing whats been working for 400k Miles.
I'm a hard core Royal Purple fan I use it in nearly everything even my air compressor which works 6-12 hours a day it has had the same oil for nearly a year and a half ago sure really change it though ;-;
full synthetic 1 to 3 years on your "weekend car" is not a problem if you don't have extreme climate conditions the oil will still come out still good as new but 25000 km/h is asking for trouble, i would change it after 10.000 km no mater the time passed
I am a semi-retired ASE Master Tech. I have been working on cars since 1972. I have also done testing with an independent lab just like the way Eric did.. ....I have found,as did Eric that Mobil 1 is about the best you can buy.I also agree with young Austin Chase. "Oil is cheap,engines are not". I use nothing but Mobil 1,but ,I follow the oil change monitor on all my cars even though the monitor is for regular oil. The one thing I do that is different is I NEVER let the percentage go below 20%. So, if you want to make the engine run "forever",use Mobil 1 and the "20% rule". My oldest is a 2000 Olds Silhouette van with 230,000 miles run on Mobil 1 and the 20% rule.If I take off the oil fill cap and look inside with a flashlight,I see clean aluminum (the cylinder head).NO SLUDGE.....HAPPY MOTORING.
One of the hidden issue with this is: it's not just about the oil, but oil filter. The oil filter has been sized to contain the junk that a 1 standard oil change interval would produce. If you go twice or longer, there is a chance that the oil filter will just be unable to have proper flow. This can result in a few things: On partial flow filtration engine, less and less oil would get filtered. On full flow filtrations, a reduced pressure/flow can happend, which reduce the librification and cooling of the parts. Or the filter can be so blocked that the bypass valve open, and let unfiltered oil throught. So the oil can be fine, but the filter can be a big issue. If you use that oil, be sure to also use an high quality filter.
Agree. The filter material on the Mobil 1 Annual Protection oil filters is made of a synthetic blend media. I would only run a full synthetic media oil filter such as Fram Ultra Synthetic which can go 20,000 miles but it has the full synthetic media over Mobil 1's synthetic blend media.
Another thing to consider..when the vehicle manufacturer nominates an oil change interval.. that change interval is calculated to be while the oil is still proving all necessary protection..NOT when the oil is totally spent. Follow the vehicles oil change interval ..save heaps of $$..and get all the protection you are ever going to need.
was curious about this oil.. still not going to use it (maybe). 1 thing l wish someone would make clear, that you use the oil filter designed for this oil. At work, we have people that buy or want the annual protection, that wont use the filter and l tell them l dont think it will do a good job as far as filtering the oil like it needs for a year or 20k miles.IF you are going to use this, use it as intended oil & filter!
My 05 Accord's manual says 10k miles for oil change and 20k miles on filter. As long as you don't grab a crap filter with paper ends holding it together it should be fine on a known good engine.
I use the annual filter with mobil high mileage oil about 5k miles. If it's rated to last a year the filter must be pretty good but I just like to know my engine is staying clean.
I looked into this and mobile1 stats that you must use their filter with their oil or else the warranty they provide becomes void. So yes use the annual filter with the annual oil as well.
nope i dont care what people say im not using that oil or any oil ever for more than 3000 maby 5000 miles at most depending on the oil. i can actually feel a performance difference when i change my oil in that the car moves easier after the oil change and oil is dirty at 3000 miles so theres that too.
Can't make a decision with just two parameters in consideration, milage and time. Requires a much bigger sample also. Things like driving habits, extended stop and go traffic v long open road commutes, urban smog v country dirt roads, types of vehicles, and the numerous 'apple to apple' examples to weed out the outliers, etc. Such sampling obviously is out to the reach or our trusty YT mechanics. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this Eric. I always find your videos beneficial as an amateur DIY driveway mechanic. It adds another piece to the puzzle.
Woo! I've been running the Mobil One Extended Life, supposedly good for 15k miles and a year. It made it through 15k miles and about 9 months, and it's about 9k and 6 months in on the next batch. Haven't had any issues, considering having a test run when I next change it.
Worth noting that my driving is probably 85%+ highway, which of course helps to minimize wear and thus would make an extended interval more viable even on regular oil. Heavy city driving could be another story altogether. Also, for reference, I drive a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT.
I live in Middle east ( OMAN) and most people change the oil every 5000 km and few people do it every 10000 km And i dont know if this is the correct wY to do it or not but i have honda accord 2008, and if i changed the oil after 20000,km then there will be no oil in the engin because the oil decrease by about 1 Liter every 5000,km So it is defficult to exceed 15000 or 20000*km I am nkt sure about this but i think this is related to the high temperature which in mid summar can exceed 60C° and you can add to that there is no rail and the dust id bluking the air filter of the envin and some of it can go inside the engin if not changed gradually Also there is some evidince tbat showing the low quality of the gas I think these factors play major role in engin live
I haven't tried the annual protection oil but I've been running regular Mobile One in my Raptor for over 8 years (109,XXX miles). Anyhow, I haven't never been that adamant about oil changes and usually only change it twice a year. The truck still runs and drives as well as it did when I first bought it. Thats not very scientific but I'm happy with it.
Of course, the oil is still excellent, but the tiny amounts of metal particles floating in it may contribute to engine tear and wear, so there is a good reason to change it at the recommended intervals or when the oil turns dark in color.
Engine oil change is not a big deal. Just follow vehicle manufacturers instructions. I have owned two Honda civics and they both lasted more than 200k miles, they were still running good, I just sold them as i got bored.
G S The Mobil 1 Annual Protection oil filter is made out of a synthetic blend media which is not suitable for 20,000 miles. A full synthetic media should be used for better filtrations.
I always service my car and van annually and never had an issue, they run a Ford 1.6 Duratorq and a Fiat 1.9 JTD and I use motorcraft oil in both (I go to a ford garage). Usually they do not reach the specified oil change Km in a year but even if they go a bit above I still stick to the routine. No oil related failures, no smoke and no oil level loss in both!
I run Mobil 1 full synthetic on my uber car, oil changes every 3000miles with new mobile 1 oil filter. I have 52,000 miles and the engine runs very smooth. 0 issues, 0 leaks for an engine that runs 12 hrs a day.
Great video. I switch to Fully synthetic Pennzoil a few years ago for our 01 DGC, which had about 178k at the time. Now at over 239K, she still runs great at 10K OCI's. I have to add about 3/4 qts. every 2 to 3K. Had Blackstone Labs to test the oil and all was good. I drive over 2K a month, so changing the oil twice a year works for me.
Many authors on UA-cam fail to mention sponsored content, thanks for including an honest disclosure. What I find surprising is the way clearly biased and imbalanced content by some authors is completely unrecognized by many. For discriminating viewers, reputation is everything.
I do oil changes on mommas 2000 4runner at about those intervals(1 year or about 15k) but I use a group 4 100% PAO amsoil blend. Which brings me to my next question. Is this mobil one a group 3 hydrocracked "synthetic" or a group 4 synthesized synthetic? What im saying might sound redundant to some but it is not. Her car never burned or leaked a drop of oil and its got a skid pad under it that makes it a pain in the ass to do a change so i decided to switch it over to something that called for less frequent maintenance. When i ran a group 3 synthetic i would notice the oil level drop that you were talking about after a good number of miles. At the time i figured maybe it did burn a little oil over time. Not a big deal, the drop was minimal. A few years later I was educated on the difference between group 3 and 4 base stocks and switched it to amsoil the next time it came up for an oil change. And im sure there are other companies that do a good group 4 synthetic but youve got to research or youll end up putting in a different brand of group 3 "synthetic." Turns out it never did burn a drop. I figured out that it was was volatizing the group 3 base stock oil over the 1 year period. There was a minimal amount of seepage through those old gaskets for the first few thousand miles since i moved it to a group 4 but since then it hasnt leaked burned or volatized a drop. Ill let that seepage slide as a break in period for 20 year old seals and gaskets that had never touched anything but dino oil. I figure your honda is probably the same. Number one its a honda and hondas dont tend to burn oil, and number two its maintained by a mechanic. Probably just volatility.
Most people drive 8-15k miles probably be ok. Also if you do this from the start with a clean engine it’s better then starting in a engine that might be high mileage and or dirty. Semi trucks are going 10,000- 40,000+ miles on single oil change with samples being pulled at every PM.
In almost all circumstances, the oil change interval is specified by the vehicle manufacture, not the Oil manufacturer. The engine manufacture will specify the viscosity and oil change interval. I have NEVER seen the oil change interval on the oil bottle. With the exception of Mobil 1
After reading several comments from viewers in the UK, I would have to agree with them. In the US, it's been beaten into us that we should change our oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months. In recent years, I've heard 'experts' say that that is a little overkill and that it could be stretched to 5,000 miles or 5 months. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but I once went for 3 years before changing the oil in my '96 GMC Sierra 1500 daily driver (265K miles on it now). It had a slow leak (maybe just the valve cover gasket) and I would have to put a quart in every couple of months (I would use a 'high-mileage' oil). In my mind, I was adding fresh oil so why change it. Of course, there was the oil filter that was probably clogged (thank goodness for the bypass valve). Never had any oil-related issues. I played with fate and was fortunate to come out on the other end okay. I don't do that anymore, however. I'm at a point where paying the local grease monkey/tire shop proprietor guy $20 to change my oil in 15 minutes every 3 or 4 months works for me.
Glad to see it worked out for you, even though I'll be sticking to the 5000km conventional oil changes as specified in my owner's manual. Perhaps when I get a newer vehicle (that's designed with synthetic oil and longer service intervals in mind) I'll give this stuff a shot.
I've been using Mobil 1 15,000 mile oil and oil filter in my cars since about 2008. I assume it's the same formula as Annual Protection. 10,000 miles is about as far as I'm willing to go on an oil filter. It's good to see my faith has been well placed. Thanks ETCG. You rock. You are the inspiration for my own channel. I don't have the shop or the fancy tools you do, but I think that's what adds to my channels charm. Thanks again. Can't wait to see new numbers on the Fairmont project.
That's impressive! Especially in a high rev Honda. That being said, I think extended oil change intervals are way overrated. Full synthetic oil (Pennzoil Platinum Ultra) costs 20 bucks, so it's totally ok to change the oil twice a year over 5-7K miles, which I will stick to. Thanks for the video, Eric, this reminded me I wanted to send drained oil for analysis.
I have done once a year oil changes in all my petrol/ lpg vehicles using Amsoil oil and oil filters. 2 of those cars i have owned for over 15 years and both have never given me any trouble. My diesel 4x4 and truck i extend the oil change by 25% and haven't had any trouble either.
'Mobil 1' is the oil of choice for Porsche and here in Europe generally has a price to match that elevated status. I'm a fairly 'tight' person (As in I don't like to waste money) but still replace the oil and filter every 10000 km or at least once a year, whatever comes first. Never use 'top quality' branded oils but always get OEM filters etc. Oil consumption is not an issue nor is excessive smoke etc on my little Fiat Seicento (all 54 BHP of it). However, Mobil 1, used in all our Porsche's requires a litre every 5000km which, according to Porsche is completely within 'spec'. This applies to both diesel and petrol engines made by Porsche AFAIK.
Mobil 1 suck. American don't know nothing about oil. They keep using "full synthetic" but isn't 100% synthetic. So a full synthetic or normal synthetic is still a semisynthetic oil. That is why they need to change this every 7/8000 miles. What is mobil 1 full synthetic? 40% high refined mineral oil(hydrocracked) with some pao 4 base oil and additives. Keep dreaming and shooting.. XD
I am not sure what the big deal with the 1 year interval is. Porsche had a 2 year interval (or 20K miles) all the way, with the 'gold label' Mobil 1. And now they market 1 year as a big deal... I also had a sample tested after 2 years and it was in good condition, recommended for further operation.
Hi Eric, good video as usual. I didn't see you mention or show the oil filter you were using (maybe I missed it). Is the type of oil filter you use with this oil just as important? I mean, will an OEM filter protect your engine for those 20k miles as well? Or do you need to use a Mobil1 oil filter too? I think the oil change interval depends a lot on what you drive and how you drive it. If you have a turbocharged 4-cylinder motor and take a lot of short trips with very little highway driving, then I would lean toward a shorter OCI. But on a naturally aspirated engine with plenty of easy freeway miles then yes, you could go longer between changes. I would definitely not recommend a 20k mile OCI for a car like the Ford Focus ST with its direct injection, high compression, 4-cylinder, turbocharged setup. That would need a much shorter OCI, for example.
I can go a full year without changing my oil but i barely drive it and only have 56k miles on my car that i bought new in Nov 07. I've done the oil changes myself every 6k miles with Mobil1 synthetic though since i want that car to last for as long as possible.
ive done 6 k miles on full syn mobil 1 and it looked just fine to my eye . slightly dirty but no way near black and used up or deteriorated . im thinking 8 -10 k might be okay but i dont drive that far in a year .
That’s all I use in wife’s new crv well it’s almost 2 years now I use the annual protection and the matching filter I change the oil at 7500-8500 miles I know I’m prematurely changing it but o well at 483 miles i started using it and at advanced auto it’s 32.99 for oil and the filter and I always have a $20 off speed perk so $12.99 for oil change
I have a 2013 Jetta 2.5 and get my oil done for free at the VW dealer. They use full synth (though I don't know if it's Mobil 1) and the change interval is every 10,000 miles. I have close to 136,000 miles on the car now and it runs/drives/sounds as smooth as it did when I bought it CPO at 33,000 miles. I changed the valve cover/PCV about a month ago and the valve area has basically zero discoloration, everything is still a nice golden color.
Just look at the GIANT disparity of wear metals! The Mobil has 27 times more magnesium, 15 times more moly, over 8 times the lead, and almost 3 times more aluminium... It is NOT smart to go this long without changing your oil! (the wear metals in the oil are abrasive)
Magnesium is an additive. Moly can be a wear metal can also be an additive, as the number was higher in the fresh Mobil1 than in the used oil. Aluminum is 3x higher but the oil was in five times as long so that is actually better. The lead content is troubling though.
we have been doing this for a couple of years now with the price of oil and synthetic so close but have changed the oil filters every three months as well making sure the oil is full
I can not believe it was last year when you did this it seems like it was yesterday.I still believe in the old way every 3000 miles I do not like waiting a year.
Four gallons of Rotella T6 for me and my dirty diesel. Did you have to change the oil filter during the year? My grandfather said cars in the 50's didnt do oil changes. They just burned enough oil that it was more important to just make sure it was full and change the oil filter.
I have been changing my oil once a year since 1974. Mobil 1. Excellent results. No engine problems related to lubrication.
Just a reminder to everyone, follow your manufacturer’s recommendation on oil change intervals. If it says to change it every 5-6k miles, then do it. If something goes wrong with your engine and you tell them that you put the one year engine oil, you just voided the warranty.
Thank you Eric for posting the results, been waiting a whole year for this. Thumbs up. Stay dirty.
Mini Cooper S 2008 - user manual says to change oil every 2 years or 15k miles. Not a good idea for me.
People stuck to it and then everyone says this engine is a piece of shit, but that's whole another topic.
Take what manufacturers reccommend and divide by atleast 2.
Yeah then also ask yourself why the European manual for the identical car and engine will have a longer oil change interval.
@@aciddiver1978Yeah you're just making that up. You're throwing away perfectly good oil then- if you don't believe me just send it in for analysis and they'll tell you it's basically identical to unused oil, it's like $35 all in for a test
@@SuperMrgentleman they're not going to test their oil..because if they do (and they should) they'll lose their 'philosophical mechanic edge' and become just regular guys :)
I've had my '03 GTI VR6 for 16 years now, and am the original owner. I've been having the dealership change the oil (Castrol Syntec, then lately Castrol Edge 5W-40 fully synthetic) once a year, every summer. The car has about 89,000 miles on it, so I only put about 5,500 miles a year on it, driving mainly local on short trips. I have not had one problem or issue with the engine all these years, and still have the original timing chain. My gut is that once a year is fine running full synthetic of any kind, especially if you don't put more than 7 or 8K miles on the vehicle. I've had no oil leaks as well, and only check the dipstick maybe once or twice a year, as the 24v VR6 does not burn a noticeable amount of oil.
Correct me if I’m wrong but your extended interval caused almost 3 times more wear than the 4,000 mile oil change. Iron and aluminum were much higher. I just found same result when I took my 2022 Tahoe to 12,500 miles. TBN was fine, but wear metals are high.
To be fair though, it's also about 3x the miles so the wear was just the same as usual
Pretty amazing result considering. I'm still gonna change twice a year with synthetic. Oil is cheap, engines aren't. It's way colder over winter here in Canada too.
if they recycle your oil where you live, that's fine, it's your money. but otherwise creating waste for the fun of it is stupid. no disrespect.
@@duroxkilo
What country dumps oil and doesn't recycle it?
@@dproulx222 what planet you on? :)
Oil life is determined by how good the electrical system, air-fuel mixture, compression, and your vehicle's workload are.
I had a Honda Accord which I bought from new and ran Mobil 1 oil in it with an annual filter/oil change schedule. When I retired the vehicle (due to rust and crash damage) it had done 303,000 Km (about 180,000 miles). On stripping down the engine, no perceptable lip was found on the bore and there were no other lubrication-related issues observed. The oil-pan and internals were also *very* clean, with no build-up of sludge or carbon. So how is this annual protection stuff any better than that?
It's called a ridge, not a lip.
Because Honda Quality boy. Now let’s do the same test on a KIA Rio lol
Was it 3.5 v6?
i believe honda wants you to leave oil in the engine for up to a year anyway .
I get that how dark oil is isn't the entire story on when it should be changed, but according to my calibrated eyeball scanner, that oil you drained out sure looked to be way past its prime. Analysis aside, I wouldn't be entirely comfortable knowing that stuff was sloshing around in my otherwise well-cared-for engine. I think I'll stick to regular Mobil 1 and 4K to 6K change intervals.
😊😊😊😅9😊 4:42
There was a test of Synth (regular Mobil 1) vs. conventional oil, and they sent samples off to a lab also. The results were that regular Mobil 1 was actually still in good shape at 15K. My point being that if you run regular Mobil 1 you could get very close to the year mark and be fine rather than shelling out the big bucks for the extended life oil. I change every 10K or 6 months - call it good.
why not a year ?
@@tjlee9901 He would be pushing it driving 20k miles a year.
people don't comprehend like at all what happened to engines in the last decades, how much tolerances and materials improved.
when was the last time you saw cars in traffic trailing white smoke?
engine don't wear out like your father remembers... there was a time 1 in 5 cars was burning oil at 50k miles and virtually all at 100k miles. those times are gone :)
@@duroxkiloyou clearly don't know anything about engines. Go and talk to mechanic that does rebuilds on engines. Or just follow a mechanic online. Trust me people who don't do oil changes often off. End up with engines with sludge and engines that need to be replaced.
@@PS-gr5wh lols and lols... i've seen the insides of engines before i learned to read and i've worked in my uncle's shop before i had a girlfriend, i think i've had a decent understanding on what's what for quite some time :)
my younger brother is an engineer specialized in tribology and is testing key components for the engines of two european car manufacturers, i have decent sources of information for whatever engine-wear questions cross my mind...
i'm not a mechanic by choice :)
anyways, you do you, stay safe and have fun.
ps: oil analysis and compression tests are accessible to everyone (which i enjoy as a hobby); there is zero need to second guess the modern approach to engine maintenance...
My niece had a car that leaked oil. She said it stopped leaking when she stopped putting in oil every couple of weeks.
armadillotoe
I guess the oil level is now below the hole in the oil pan, LOL
Randy Bo bandy hooking for cheeseburgers again
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 LMAO
Wat@@hxhdfjifzirstc894
I've been waiting for these results for the past year. Finally I could sit down with a bag of popcorn and witness this event
A cut open of the filter would be something cool to see. How much junk it collected.
It's long gone unfortunately. I shot this video months ago. Also, the testing should tell us all we need to know.
EricTheCarGuy That depends. Does this oil do its thing by somehow helping to trap the particulates in the filter? You would expect several of these contaminants to accumulate much more, so how does it actually deal with them? The filter might be one possibility.
Ehh the filter will look like any other used oil filter and its most likely all black inside. Only abnormal thing you'd see would be sludge or metal fragments and those are highly unlikely unless you have engine damage from neglect which you won't see from Eric's cars ;p
Would have seen if the filter was so clogged it was just by-passing the oil through the safety valve.
I’ve actually cut oil filters apart that had 30,000 km on them as long as your engines clean inside there is no dirt in the filter. In my opinion the oil filter will never save your engine if you don’t change oil.
I just did my own test with this oil as well, I drive a 2012 honda civic si, and I used blackstone labs as my testing ground. I found that I had increased levels of lead, iron, magnesium, boron, sodium, phosphorus, zinc, and aluminum when in comparison to Blackstone's universal averages. The most concerning number for them was the added lead content. In general they suggested that I stick to the 10K interval change of oil and it was my choice to continue using the annual protection oil. I still use annual protection today, but I will be change it at 10K miles instead of 18K which was the length between on my original test. Food for thought.
Yes thats clever, we didany tests with different cars. The yearly chance is the best way
18,000 miles I’m surprised it’s running why would you do that to an si unless you were trying to find out how much damage it would cause. I’m here because I’ve only put 2000 miles on my type r in 1.5 years but don’t want to change the oil even though they say every 6 months.
Change Full Synthetic Oil. Every six months or six thousand miles.
I've always been comfortable running synthetic for 10k between changes. Its an easy way to remember your interval too. Just keep the oil level topped off in between. Then change your oil filter (and check your air filters) each interval also. The oil will be fine.
Oil life is determined by how good the electrical system, air-fuel mixture, compression, and your vehicle's workload are.
Where's Scotty to start more beef!!!
Scotty "heres why eric the car guy is wrong" Kilmer
REV UP YOUR ENGINES!
REV UP YOUR ENGINES!
REV UP YOUR ENGINES!
luilui8812 ummm Scotty already did a video on why not to use the 20,000 mile Mobile 1 oil change that Eric and EE both got paid to endorse, go search it, it was a few months back, Scotty keeps it real, the rest are sell outs now
christopher bougher Damn, they really get paid? I thought they just get free oil or something like that.
Richard Ojeda dude they get money, thousands per sponsorship, if you watch this video thinking you were going to hear anything other than it’s great you’re stupid. ITS A SPONSORED VIDEO come on dummies 😂
I use Royal Purple oil and Purolator BOSS filters and still change my oil every 3 thousand miles.
Just because an oil may last for 1 year and a filter catches almost everything that flows through it doesn't mean there's no metal wear and contamination in the oil that never goes through the filter.
There's oil that passes through bypass valves instead of flowing through the oil filter. There's particles that get caught between rod bearings, crankshaft main bearings, and camshaft bearings. Changing your oil helps to dilute these contaminants out of the engine.
Engines running these extended oils such as this Mobil 1 One Year Protection will not last as long as engines being maintained with normal oil change intervals of 3 to 5 thousand miles.
Top quality oil and filter just to dump it at 3k miles? What a disgrace. My 2011 dodge avenger is up to 250k miles. I’m the original owner and have always used either conventional or the low cost synthetic with mid grade filters. The oil life monitor alerts between 4.5-8k miles. That’s what I’ve always gone by, and the engine is still in good shape.
Would love to see the crankshaft bearings. See if it worth it or not especially in the oil passages.
Americans really seem to have an obsession with changing the oil every five minutes, for fear that the engine will die if they don't.
Here in the UK, it's absolutely standard to change oil and filter once a year at the annual service, and for most people that will be a 10-15k mileage interval. On the available evidence of tens of millions of vehicles over decades, this is absolutely fine and does not hurt the engine in any way. In 30 years of driving I've only ever changed the oil once a year and I've never had any kind of oil-related engine issues in any of my vehicles - and they've all been older high-milers.
In fact, when buying a used car in the UK, if you saw from the service history that the oil had been changed every 3-5k miles, you'd probably get suspicious and ask what was wrong with the engine for it to need such frequent changes...
dunebasher1971 gasoline in the uk is far better than the ones sold in the american continent. I live in the Dominican Republic and the gas quality is garbage so oil gets dirty faster
Sebastian Conde how is the gas better or worse
Same here in Germany. Everybody is like "are you fucking nuts?" when I tell them I change my Oil every 15.000 km in my regular 1.8l 140Hp car. Because here it is the most normal thing to change it every 30.000 km. And this is a regular interval. If you use longlife oil, people change it every 2 years or 50.000 / 60.000 km. Thats also how it's written in the service manuals; standard is 1 year / 30.000 km, longlife interval is 2 years / 60.000 km.
Also almost every used car over here with 120.000 km seems like it's toasted. Like half of the rubber sealings on the engines are gone bad and it seems like the compression is low.
There's no chance that oil will keep it's properties for over a year (2 year long life intervals on new cars, VWs especially) if ran in a real winter climate normally during the winter...
120,000km is only 74k miles, and all my previous cars in the UK have been well over 100k miles and on annual oil changes with none of the issues you refer to. My two current cars are at 115k and 100k miles with no signs of damaged seals or low compression, and this is completely as I'd expect from *any* mainstream UK car of that mileage.
I was hoping you were going to go threw the analysis with us in detail
if i recall correctly, Eric, you used to use generic walmart oil until you started getting sponsored by oil companies - i remember your saying the off-brand oil passed the same standards as the name brands - i guess name brand oils are better, but are they worth the diff?
If it's ILSAC GF-5 (API SN) you're getting the most modern standard of lubrication regardless of price. So, there's nothing wrong with Walmart oil, etc.
wholeNwon I use Supertech Full Synthetic for at least 10,000-12,000 miles without any issues on a 2012 Civic.
Most oils are refined at the same place. It's just marketing!
Just a tip. If you don't like Walmart oil, which I think is good oil, you can always get a deal on name brand oil, even Mobil One. Just check the web sites and see who is offering a rebate at the time. There is always one or more rebates available at any given time. I once bought a 5 quart jug of Mobil One for $5.00 after rebate.
As long as oils meet modern API and ILSAC GF-5 standards than it's all good, just slightly different additives and as long as you change the oil regularly you should be fine. It is marketing but at the same time there is some truth to that marketing and some oils do have superior cleaning abilities and tougher film strength but you won't notice them in real world driving. Only if performance is a concern.
One thing I find funny that nobody has noticed quite yet is that the oil didn't last from start to finish he had to continually add oil so that new fresh oil was being added to the already used oil in the engine . Remember he said it kept burning off . I did the same test with mine and couldn't make it on a whole year without having to add more oil to the engine because of burn off . Most engins will burn off a little oil and you will have to add oil periodically. So it wasn't actually one year old oil change of the engine continually burned off oil then by the end he would have already added a new oil change to the engine . This is why the oil sample he sent in came back good . There was fresh new oil added, it wasn't the same old oil the whole year through otherwise we would have seen different result.
Should.have sent a sample in at 3 , 6 and 12 months to compare that way the 1ST sample would have no added oil and the comparison would be more legit
Half way Mark and at the end point is not alot of oil used
Well it could be useful to know how much oil was added in that time, if it was less than a quart it wouldn't be that bad.
Yes adding fresh oil from the fact that there is engine consumption is a variable. Maybe find an engine where there is less dramatic consumption?
I went 9 months on my 2007 Honda Civic Ex that has 123,000 miles in it. I put castrol GTX synthetic blend high mileage oil and an STP extended life oil filter. I was going to go a year, but I went 9 months. I didn’t send it to a lab, but my friend who owns a small shop for 33 years and has been changing oil since he was a kid was impressed. The oil looked and flowed like new. I was also only driving In City for those nine months. I didn’t count the mileage though 🤷♂️ it might have been 5000 around there I assume.
I've been waiting for this video! Despite the testing I still wouldn't feel comfortable going that long on an oil change, but that's more a personal preference I have than anything else. The oil did look pretty dirty too...I wouldn't be fully convinced that this is safe in the long term until a more widespread test is conducted. I change my oil every 5,000 miles personally.
I use AMSOIL Signature and had similar results. After 130,000km and 6 years of annual oil changes I can say it works great. Oil consumption was approximately 0.25L for every 20,000km on this 2009 Nissan Sentra. Sent a sample and was recommended to change 8000km later than normal.
Is it just me or this guy’s language is brilliant.
These types of tests and procedures are why most ppl trust,value,and pass along etcg's content,thx alot etcg
I do this all the time with Amsoil Signature Series oil and Amsoil Filter.
as a builder and an enthusiast for over 5 decades at this point and having had quite some experience over the years i offer this:
lubricants have become much better in certain instances but......
if you own a flat tappet engine or an earlier ohc(bucket follower type) engine(pre m.y. 2k on average) i strongly suggest that oil with zinc(zddp) be used.
cam wear will be evident otherwise and wiping of the lobes can and often does occur due to use of modern oils that don't contain proper levels of zinc for these engines.
the reason zinc levels have been either reduced or eliminated totally is because zinc doesn't play well with catalytic converters. the problem would be multiplied exponentially with some engines now that burn up to a quart in a thousand miles but thanks to some trick metallurgy by some manufacturers the need for zinc has lessened or has been eliminated(roller rockers-etc).
before using any type of oil due diligence is required other than just reading in the manual what the mfg recommends. keep in mind that whatever the mfg suggests that you use is based upon an average users requirements and it's NOT ok to run a track day on 0w-whatever weight oil or a turbo installation that drastically increases the bearing surface stresses and heat loading on the oil.
understand the requirements of your engine and oil for your driving style and keep an eye on the heat the oil is absorbing from the abuse being handed to it. don't let that oil get too hot and thin out to the point that bearing failure happens. make SURE that on the older engines that the oil contains zinc or sulphur or a combination of both. that chlorine molecule(like that in harley oil and some synthetics)is just not enough by itself. engine or cat failure....what a gamble?!
me...i choose to replace cats. it's cheaper. folks with newer beemers that will suffer big end rod bearing failures should heed this warning and NEVER fire off their engines cold and romp on it right away.let the oil warm up...it will take a couple of minutes. second thought...go ahead...ignore the warning. just more work and profit margin for folks like me and my machinist if you do. :-)
retired but still building the old & weird ones.... =dok=
Gizmo Thewytchdoktor got a ton of diesel oil on clearance from Walmart for $1 a qt
Did they mention doing this yearly schedule WILL void your warranty on a car thats still covered?
It will void your warranty if you don't follow your car's recommended interval. Mobil 1 states this to avoid being sued.
I'm a DIY guy so I am under the hood and under the car probably every week.
We have realize however that the average car owner doesn't do squat between service. They don't check fluids, inspect tires, suspension and brakes, lube locks or hinges, or even put air in tires (unless visibly flat). Once a year service is inadequate especially in climates that have severe seasons. At a minimum vehicles should be fully serviced at the beginning of summer and then at the beginning of winter and if that means an extra oil change once a year...big deal.
I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my 2007 Nissan Altima for the last 6 years along with the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter. I change my own oil every 6 months and the engine still runs great at 180k miles with no oil leaks and negligible oil consumption. I'd use pretty much any full synthetic oil in the same fashion, but you also need to use a good oil filter that can handle extended intervals. I'd consider the annual Mobil 1, but I live in the desert and worry about the dust building up in the oil that is too small to be filtered out.
Would the results be skewed at all by the fact that you had to top off the oil throughout the year? So fresh oil being introduced
The oil clearly lasts long enough for one year/20k intervals. From what I see, it has the capability to go even further. However the main concern is significantly more debris suspended in the oil. It's not the oils fault, it's just the accumulation from the extended interval. I think oil filtration should be the top trend for engine lubrication.
Thank you for taking the time to do this!
Oh snap, when I seen this video in my mind I was already saying to my self "Scotty is coming for you Eric" 😅
You definitely can, I’m getting an oil change tomorrow. December 31st 2020 will be my first oil change. January 8th 2020 is when I got the car. I put over 20,000 miles on it and it’s still in amazing shape.
The oil change interval on my current car here in the UK (a 2017 Volvo V40 2.0 D4 twin-turbo diesel) is 18,000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first, so much the same as your van covered with the Mobil1 annual protection.
I personally can't figure out why oil changes need to be so frequent in the US, unless you are using poor quality oils or the vehicle is regularly used in a dirty environment. For normal road use, a year should be no problem.
The owner's manual of my Kia Sorento says I must change the oil at an interval of 3.500 miles... This is ridiculous, even more so when you consider it's a diesel. I change oil once a year.
Tradition, mostly, when it was plain ol' dinosaur squeezings. Old conventional oils broke down much faster and needed changing every 3000 miles.
Also, US uses traffic lights and road designs are not the best for smooth driving at consistent speed. People here are also very chaotic in how they drive*. So we end up with lots of stop and go traffic which is harder on oil than driving long distance at steady RPM.
*: I know many countries have bad drivers, but the bad behaviors tend to be consistent. Here, it is true chaos sometimes. I swear some drivers in the US got their license as a prize in their breakfast cereal.
Teribus13 gas quality in América is by far worse that the gasoline and diesel used in Europe. Bad gasoline equals to less oil life
Sebastian Conde - Can you please provide information or a link that supports your claim regarding European & American fuels having such extreme quality control differences!???
TimonNetherlands are you, as your username suggests, in the Netherlands? Or elsewhere in the world?
My last car was a 2012 Kia Rio diesel, the intervals on that were 10,000 miles or a year (again, this is in the UK)
Not sponsored by Mobil 1 at all.
Did we mention the oil was Mobil 1 ?
Mobil 1 !!! (just in case you forgot)
I've owned my car for 12 years from new and all I've ever done is change the oil every 12 months. I have had no engine problems at all.
colintx800 I assume you use full synthetic, am I correct?
Richard Ojeda Yes correct :)
colintx800 That's good. Running a full synthetic is always better from new.
How many miles you drive in a year
Yet
I always use full synthetic oil and change it every 10k kilometers or 6 months and never had any problem. I usually change before reaching 6 months. It's worth spending more on maintenance knowing you can keep your engine running smoothly, I wouldn't feel confident extending my oil change intervals to save a bit of money.
I've used Amsoil, and change my oil once a year, 200k miles, no issues.
How many miles per year were you driving?
My 2016 ram with the 5.7 manual said to change every 8,000 miles. Im using full synthetic from walmart which is half the price at autozone and other auto part stores. $25 for 5 quarts. I buy 2 of them because my ram takes 7 quarts. $50 total for oil and $5 for oil filter which equals to $55. No light, no problems, running good. Than my next change would cost me less because I dont need to buy extra oil since I have left over so my next change would run me $30 for oil and filter total. Full synthetic and I change it myself. Every 8k miles is good for me. The oil looks decent when I change it. No chunk, not pitch black, no metallic color
Use to do my oil change every 8000/km with regular mobil1 until i started to use blackstone , was changing it way to early. I'm now doing it at 12 000k ,always nice to save some money .
Rick-jk blackstone lab testing has me up to 14k miles. Next I plan to try Pennzoil or Honda oil for 1 year or 27,000 miles. Most people haven’t taken engines past 300k miles. Most people don’t use oil lab results to determine what’s optimal for their car. The labs saved me a bunch of money and keep a close watch on my car’s engine and transmission. The haters can hate but they don’t have the data and they don’t have a Honda running past 320,000 miles.
The amsoil enthusiasts note that amsoil can get you to 6 months. They don’t seem to understand that almost any synthetic or blend can get a car to 20,000 miles or one year and can do that for at least 120,000 miles. Some of the labs have results up to 500,000 miles. The 20,000-mile interval doesn’t harm the engine but it does help a lot of things.
I'm not surprised it stood up to it. Mobil 1 is a great oil. I'm sure they did years of testing before releasing this oil. One thing to take note of though before switching to this and going the full change interval. If you are a person who sits idle in traffic for long periods of time, or like to leave the car running with the Ac or heat on when in the store shopping. Don't expect the same one year or 20,000 miles of protection. If the engine is running the oil is breaking down. An hour of idling could be equal to 70 miles of driving or even more since the oil is able to cool better while moving down the road, just idling it may actually get hotter, speeding up wear.
The used oil is blacker than black. The test report says "elevated silicon dirt/dust ABRASIVES".....and you're okay with that??
Tin Man I guess people are concerned about the chemistry and not debris. Which tells me filter needs to be changed more often.
Elevated silicon is from not changing air filter frequently enough. Has nothing to do with oil or oil filter.
@@PedalTheGlobe unless you are in a very dusty climate, you would change your air filter every 30k....the dirtier a filter gets, the better it filters. The best filtering your air filter did was ths day it was removed, but a clogged filter doesn't filter anything, dirt will get by somehow some way
@@PedalTheGlobe True but by doubling the oil change interval, you are leaving that grit in the oil longer. That is not a good thing.
@@insideoutsideupsidedown2218 Doesn't matter. The cleaner filter let's the car breath more. You don't want a dirty filter. It's not filtering better. A filters real job is to let as much air through as possible while still filtering the air. A clogged filter immediately fails one of those purposes. So no, a dirty filter is not better. Just clogged.
I really don't see anything wrong with sponsored content personally EricTheCarGuy, any info you can give us has always been valuable.
I run Amsoil signature series 5W 30 which was actually the first oil brand to offer one year oil changes!! and it’s 100% synthetic not full synthetic there is a difference!!!
I change my oil every 10k miles with synthetic. Of course I check the level in between. Never had an issue with my 5 vehicles.
I don't know dude... That exclamation sign gives me a bad taste...
I’m 10 months (25,000 miles) into the annual challenge on Pennzoil Platinum from Jiffy Lube. We changed the filter from service champ to wix xp after 7,500 miles. I agree that most or all users should seriously consider the 1-year interval, after the car has reached 70k miles. May every engine reach a million miles!
With almost 400,000 miles on my ol f150 I I might give this a whirl. I started my truck off
On motorcraft then went to royal purple 5w20 for 290+k miles. At 300,000 I switched to mobile 1 due to cost, the royal purple was crowding 10
Dollars a quart. 340,000 she's still clicking right along with
Mobile 1. I
Change my oil every 5-7k miles And the oil is
Clean when I drain it so I see the Benifits of the 1 year oil. Stay filthy my friend.
THEMOWERMEDIC1 THE SMALL ENGINE SPECIALIST I would send the oil to a lab to check the conditions of the motor first. Personally, with a truck with that many miles, I would just keep doing whats been working for 400k Miles.
What year and engine?
I'm a hard core Royal Purple fan I use it in nearly everything even my air compressor which works 6-12 hours a day it has had the same oil for nearly a year and a half ago sure really change it though ;-;
Mobil. There's no "e" in Mobil.
Joel Smith 02 with the 4.2 Essex v6
I use Mobil 1 extended perf (gold cap) when it's on sale. But I prefer Pennzoil Platinum because it seems to be a bit better.
Yes, I have done that, changing oil once a year, over a period of thirty years, 25.000 km a year. No problem.
Had to be full synthetic, conventional wouldn't make it without causing sludge in your motor.
full synthetic 1 to 3 years on your "weekend car" is not a problem if you don't have extreme climate conditions the oil will still come out still good as new but 25000 km/h is asking for trouble, i would change it after 10.000 km no mater the time passed
I am a semi-retired ASE Master Tech. I have been working on cars since 1972. I have also done testing with an independent lab just like the way Eric did.. ....I have found,as did Eric that Mobil 1 is about the best you can buy.I also agree with young Austin Chase. "Oil is cheap,engines are not". I use nothing but Mobil 1,but ,I follow the oil change monitor on all my cars even though the monitor is for regular oil. The one thing I do that is different is I NEVER let the percentage go below 20%. So, if you want to make the engine run "forever",use Mobil 1 and the "20% rule". My oldest is a 2000 Olds Silhouette van with 230,000 miles run on Mobil 1 and the 20% rule.If I take off the oil fill cap and look inside with a flashlight,I see clean aluminum (the cylinder head).NO SLUDGE.....HAPPY MOTORING.
That's a great result, you know your vehicle has safe lubrication for another year.
One less thing to worry about :-D
One of the hidden issue with this is: it's not just about the oil, but oil filter.
The oil filter has been sized to contain the junk that a 1 standard oil change interval would produce. If you go twice or longer, there is a chance that the oil filter will just be unable to have proper flow. This can result in a few things: On partial flow filtration engine, less and less oil would get filtered. On full flow filtrations, a reduced pressure/flow can happend, which reduce the librification and cooling of the parts. Or the filter can be so blocked that the bypass valve open, and let unfiltered oil throught.
So the oil can be fine, but the filter can be a big issue.
If you use that oil, be sure to also use an high quality filter.
Great point.
Agree. The filter material on the Mobil 1 Annual Protection oil filters is made of a synthetic blend media. I would only run a full synthetic media oil filter such as Fram Ultra Synthetic which can go 20,000 miles but it has the full synthetic media over Mobil 1's synthetic blend media.
I forgot I was awaiting the results of this, thanks Eric. Not sure about using this in my car...
Another thing to consider..when the vehicle manufacturer nominates an oil change interval.. that change interval is calculated to be while the oil is still proving all necessary protection..NOT when the oil is totally spent.
Follow the vehicles oil change interval ..save heaps of $$..and get all the protection you are ever going to need.
was curious about this oil.. still not going to use it (maybe). 1 thing l wish someone would make clear, that you use the oil filter designed for this oil. At work, we have people that buy or want the annual protection, that wont use the filter and l tell them l dont think it will do a good job as far as filtering the oil like it needs for a year or 20k miles.IF you are going to use this, use it as intended oil & filter!
My 05 Accord's manual says 10k miles for oil change and 20k miles on filter. As long as you don't grab a crap filter with paper ends holding it together it should be fine on a known good engine.
I still don't trust that oil for the inteval. To long for an oil change. I like to work on my car it's gonna be too long for me to service it. Curious
I use the annual filter with mobil high mileage oil about 5k miles. If it's rated to last a year the filter must be pretty good but I just like to know my engine is staying clean.
I looked into this and mobile1 stats that you must use their filter with their oil or else the warranty they provide becomes void. So yes use the annual filter with the annual oil as well.
It's actually shocking that honda actually recommends changing the filter every other oil change.
Thanks Eric for doing this experiment.
nope i dont care what people say im not using that oil or any oil ever for more than 3000 maby 5000 miles at most depending on the oil. i can actually feel a performance difference when i change my oil in that the car moves easier after the oil change and oil is dirty at 3000 miles so theres that too.
Sirtokesalot47 I love that feeling of having new oil and a new oil filter. It just drives so smoothly.
Aka Plecebo
@@lenoat702aka insano😆
Can't make a decision with just two parameters in consideration, milage and time. Requires a much bigger sample also. Things like driving habits, extended stop and go traffic v long open road commutes, urban smog v country dirt roads, types of vehicles, and the numerous 'apple to apple' examples to weed out the outliers, etc. Such sampling obviously is out to the reach or our trusty YT mechanics. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this Eric. I always find your videos beneficial as an amateur DIY driveway mechanic. It adds another piece to the puzzle.
Woo!
I've been running the Mobil One Extended Life, supposedly good for 15k miles and a year.
It made it through 15k miles and about 9 months, and it's about 9k and 6 months in on the next batch. Haven't had any issues, considering having a test run when I next change it.
Worth noting that my driving is probably 85%+ highway, which of course helps to minimize wear and thus would make an extended interval more viable even on regular oil. Heavy city driving could be another story altogether.
Also, for reference, I drive a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT.
Been waiting for this one actually. Checked up on it a couple months ago, thanks Eric
I live in Middle east ( OMAN) and most people change the oil every 5000 km and few people do it every 10000 km
And i dont know if this is the correct wY to do it or not but i have honda accord 2008, and if i changed the oil after 20000,km then there will be no oil in the engin because the oil decrease by about 1 Liter every 5000,km
So it is defficult to exceed 15000 or 20000*km
I am nkt sure about this but i think this is related to the high temperature which in mid summar can exceed 60C° and you can add to that there is no rail and the dust id bluking the air filter of the envin and some of it can go inside the engin if not changed gradually
Also there is some evidince tbat showing the low quality of the gas
I think these factors play major role in engin live
I haven't tried the annual protection oil but I've been running regular Mobile One in my Raptor for over 8 years (109,XXX miles). Anyhow, I haven't never been that adamant about oil changes and usually only change it twice a year. The truck still runs and drives as well as it did when I first bought it. Thats not very scientific but I'm happy with it.
Eric, are you going to go the full year/20k again or not? Also I may have missed it but did you change the filter in between?
Of course, the oil is still excellent, but the tiny amounts of metal particles floating in it may contribute to engine tear and wear, so there is a good reason to change it at the recommended intervals or when the oil turns dark in color.
Next year pull the valve cover?
Engine oil change is not a big deal.
Just follow vehicle manufacturers instructions. I have owned two Honda civics and they both lasted more than 200k miles, they were still running good, I just sold them as i got bored.
What about the oil filter? It might not be suitable for 20k miles...
G S The Mobil 1 Annual Protection oil filter is made out of a synthetic blend media which is not suitable for 20,000 miles. A full synthetic media should be used for better filtrations.
Sir I enjoy the way you put things. Kinda reminds me of my father thanks for doing what you do.
Cool stuff. I already use Mobil1 synthetic, I love it. But I would never recommend using this oil and changing it yearly.
Why not?
I always service my car and van annually and never had an issue, they run a Ford 1.6 Duratorq and a Fiat 1.9 JTD and I use motorcraft oil in both (I go to a ford garage). Usually they do not reach the specified oil change Km in a year but even if they go a bit above I still stick to the routine. No oil related failures, no smoke and no oil level loss in both!
Damn, that oil reminded me of the chocolate fountain from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
I run Mobil 1 full synthetic on my uber car, oil changes every 3000miles with new mobile 1 oil filter. I have 52,000 miles and the engine runs very smooth. 0 issues, 0 leaks for an engine that runs 12 hrs a day.
Great video. I switch to Fully synthetic Pennzoil a few years ago for our 01 DGC, which had about 178k at the time. Now at over 239K, she still runs great at 10K OCI's. I have to add about 3/4 qts. every 2 to 3K. Had Blackstone Labs to test the oil and all was good. I drive over 2K a month, so changing the oil twice a year works for me.
Many authors on UA-cam fail to mention sponsored content, thanks for including an honest disclosure. What I find surprising is the way clearly biased and imbalanced content by some authors is completely unrecognized by many. For discriminating viewers, reputation is everything.
I do oil changes on mommas 2000 4runner at about those intervals(1 year or about 15k) but I use a group 4 100% PAO amsoil blend. Which brings me to my next question. Is this mobil one a group 3 hydrocracked "synthetic" or a group 4 synthesized synthetic? What im saying might sound redundant to some but it is not.
Her car never burned or leaked a drop of oil and its got a skid pad under it that makes it a pain in the ass to do a change so i decided to switch it over to something that called for less frequent maintenance. When i ran a group 3 synthetic i would notice the oil level drop that you were talking about after a good number of miles. At the time i figured maybe it did burn a little oil over time. Not a big deal, the drop was minimal.
A few years later I was educated on the difference between group 3 and 4 base stocks and switched it to amsoil the next time it came up for an oil change. And im sure there are other companies that do a good group 4 synthetic but youve got to research or youll end up putting in a different brand of group 3 "synthetic." Turns out it never did burn a drop. I figured out that it was was volatizing the group 3 base stock oil over the 1 year period.
There was a minimal amount of seepage through those old gaskets for the first few thousand miles since i moved it to a group 4 but since then it hasnt leaked burned or volatized a drop. Ill let that seepage slide as a break in period for 20 year old seals and gaskets that had never touched anything but dino oil.
I figure your honda is probably the same. Number one its a honda and hondas dont tend to burn oil, and number two its maintained by a mechanic. Probably just volatility.
Most people drive 8-15k miles probably be ok. Also if you do this from the start with a clean engine it’s better then starting in a engine that might be high mileage and or dirty. Semi trucks are going 10,000- 40,000+ miles on single oil change with samples being pulled at every PM.
In almost all circumstances, the oil change interval is specified by the vehicle manufacture, not the Oil manufacturer.
The engine manufacture will specify the viscosity and oil change interval.
I have NEVER seen the oil change interval on the oil bottle. With the exception of Mobil 1
After reading several comments from viewers in the UK, I would have to agree with them. In the US, it's been beaten into us that we should change our oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months. In recent years, I've heard 'experts' say that that is a little overkill and that it could be stretched to 5,000 miles or 5 months. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but I once went for 3 years before changing the oil in my '96 GMC Sierra 1500 daily driver (265K miles on it now). It had a slow leak (maybe just the valve cover gasket) and I would have to put a quart in every couple of months (I would use a 'high-mileage' oil). In my mind, I was adding fresh oil so why change it. Of course, there was the oil filter that was probably clogged (thank goodness for the bypass valve). Never had any oil-related issues. I played with fate and was fortunate to come out on the other end okay. I don't do that anymore, however. I'm at a point where paying the local grease monkey/tire shop proprietor guy $20 to change my oil in 15 minutes every 3 or 4 months works for me.
Glad to see it worked out for you, even though I'll be sticking to the 5000km conventional oil changes as specified in my owner's manual. Perhaps when I get a newer vehicle (that's designed with synthetic oil and longer service intervals in mind) I'll give this stuff a shot.
I've been using Mobil 1 15,000 mile oil and oil filter in my cars since about 2008. I assume it's the same formula as Annual Protection. 10,000 miles is about as far as I'm willing to go on an oil filter. It's good to see my faith has been well placed. Thanks ETCG. You rock. You are the inspiration for my own channel. I don't have the shop or the fancy tools you do, but I think that's what adds to my channels charm. Thanks again. Can't wait to see new numbers on the Fairmont project.
That's impressive! Especially in a high rev Honda. That being said, I think extended oil change intervals are way overrated. Full synthetic oil (Pennzoil Platinum Ultra) costs 20 bucks, so it's totally ok to change the oil twice a year over 5-7K miles, which I will stick to. Thanks for the video, Eric, this reminded me I wanted to send drained oil for analysis.
i have been using regular mobil 1 with yearly oil changes or around 10K miles, no issues on my 2006 acura RDX k20 engine with 150K miles.
I think if I were to go that long on an oil change. I would change out the fliter at least once maybe more.
john walters
If you're going to change the filter, might as well put new oil in at the same time.
I have done once a year oil changes in all my petrol/ lpg vehicles using Amsoil oil and oil filters. 2 of those cars i have owned for over 15 years and both have never given me any trouble. My diesel 4x4 and truck i extend the oil change by 25% and haven't had any trouble either.
I "change oil" every other day so my wife won't suspect I'm cheating.
Gold!
The performance filters add more mileage and extended oil drain. Nice one Eric!
'Mobil 1' is the oil of choice for Porsche and here in Europe generally has a price to match that elevated status. I'm a fairly 'tight' person (As in I don't like to waste money) but still replace the oil and filter every 10000 km or at least once a year, whatever comes first. Never use 'top quality' branded oils but always get OEM filters etc. Oil consumption is not an issue nor is excessive smoke etc on my little Fiat Seicento (all 54 BHP of it). However, Mobil 1, used in all our Porsche's requires a litre every 5000km which, according to Porsche is completely within 'spec'. This applies to both diesel and petrol engines made by Porsche AFAIK.
Here, when we don't see a pool of oil under a Porsche, we suspect that the crankcase is empty.
Mobil 1 suck. American don't know nothing about oil. They keep using "full synthetic" but isn't 100% synthetic. So a full synthetic or normal synthetic is still a semisynthetic oil. That is why they need to change this every 7/8000 miles. What is mobil 1 full synthetic? 40% high refined mineral oil(hydrocracked) with some pao 4 base oil and additives.
Keep dreaming and shooting.. XD
Malcolm Young s
zeroyon223 here in europe 5lt of motul cost less than 5lt of shitty mobil 1 fake synthetic.
I am not sure what the big deal with the 1 year interval is. Porsche had a 2 year interval (or 20K miles) all the way, with the 'gold label' Mobil 1. And now they market 1 year as a big deal... I also had a sample tested after 2 years and it was in good condition, recommended for further operation.
Hi Eric, good video as usual. I didn't see you mention or show the oil filter you were using (maybe I missed it). Is the type of oil filter you use with this oil just as important? I mean, will an OEM filter protect your engine for those 20k miles as well? Or do you need to use a Mobil1 oil filter too? I think the oil change interval depends a lot on what you drive and how you drive it. If you have a turbocharged 4-cylinder motor and take a lot of short trips with very little highway driving, then I would lean toward a shorter OCI. But on a naturally aspirated engine with plenty of easy freeway miles then yes, you could go longer between changes. I would definitely not recommend a 20k mile OCI for a car like the Ford Focus ST with its direct injection, high compression, 4-cylinder, turbocharged setup. That would need a much shorter OCI, for example.
I’ll keep doing changes every 5k, just peace of mind for me knowing for sure I’m not damaging my engine.
glad to see more than 1.1 million subscribers 😄
nice work Eric
I can go a full year without changing my oil but i barely drive it and only have 56k miles on my car that i bought new in Nov 07. I've done the oil changes myself every 6k miles with Mobil1 synthetic though since i want that car to last for as long as possible.
I am right there with you.
ive done 6 k miles on full syn mobil 1 and it looked just fine to my eye . slightly dirty but no way near black and used up or deteriorated . im thinking 8 -10 k might be okay but i dont drive that far in a year .
Amazing how fast the year went. Also, no surprise as Mobil 1 has Been on the top of my list for quite some time now
That’s all I use in wife’s new crv well it’s almost 2 years now I use the annual protection and the matching filter I change the oil at 7500-8500 miles I know I’m prematurely changing it but o well at 483 miles i started using it and at advanced auto it’s 32.99 for oil and the filter and I always have a $20 off speed perk so $12.99 for oil change
I have a 2013 Jetta 2.5 and get my oil done for free at the VW dealer. They use full synth (though I don't know if it's Mobil 1) and the change interval is every 10,000 miles. I have close to 136,000 miles on the car now and it runs/drives/sounds as smooth as it did when I bought it CPO at 33,000 miles. I changed the valve cover/PCV about a month ago and the valve area has basically zero discoloration, everything is still a nice golden color.
Just look at the GIANT disparity of wear metals! The Mobil has 27 times more magnesium, 15 times more moly, over 8 times the lead, and almost 3 times more aluminium...
It is NOT smart to go this long without changing your oil!
(the wear metals in the oil are abrasive)
Magnesium is an additive. Moly can be a wear metal can also be an additive, as the number was higher in the fresh Mobil1 than in the used oil. Aluminum is 3x higher but the oil was in five times as long so that is actually better. The lead content is troubling though.
we have been doing this for a couple of years now with the price of oil and synthetic so close but have changed the oil filters every three months as well making sure the oil is full
I can not believe it was last year when you did this it seems like it was yesterday.I still believe in the old way every 3000 miles I do not like waiting a year.
Four gallons of Rotella T6 for me and my dirty diesel.
Did you have to change the oil filter during the year? My grandfather said cars in the 50's didnt do oil changes. They just burned enough oil that it was more important to just make sure it was full and change the oil filter.