Dude this was the simplest most informative video I have seen on this topic and makes tackling this job so much easier. Just bought a tj with driveline vibration after installing a SYE and this made me confident enough to be able to tackle it on my own!
I sure do appreciate your content. I just need to work up enough confidence to jump in and replace some suspension parts on my 98 TJ. You make it look easy, but I know it isn't always smooth sailing.
There’s definitely some work involved but I think it’s definitely doable for the DIYer who has some basic tools and the time thanks for watching I appreciate it🍻
Yes for those shafts, I don’t run adjustable control arm or lift without some kind of transfer case drop to correct the angle. If I had to adjust or check, I keep the pinion parallel to the transfer case.
@@msc1064 it just depends on what you have tell me more about your setup? On a tj with spring coils you have fixed upper and lower control arms so the pinion doesn’t move. On a leaf sprung suspension on a YJ or XJ the axle is not considered fixed and moves upwards under load. So pinion angle in relationship to driveshaft should be around 6-4 degrees. And the axle is loaded it will move upwards into the sweet spot of 1-3 degrees. This is called axle wrap and should be accounted for during setup on leaf sprung suspension. A little different than a tj. I talk about it briefly in this video Jeep Cherokee XJ Build - DIY 4.5” Suspension Lift kit Installation ua-cam.com/video/dnDXSVpsp7Y/v-deo.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD I have a stock YJ and when I put new stock leaf springs on it changed the angle of my drive shaft I am not sure of the angle. I also don’t get any vibration either I am wondering if I need to do anything else or just leave it alone or maybe put a SYE on it. Like I said I have no issues at all. Just trying to be pro active
@@msc1064then I would do nothing if they are the stock replacement springs. Keep in mind there are several other way to correct problems, For every one 1” of lift it’s about 1/4” of transfer case drop you need to correct the driveshaft angles on a leaf spring suspension. A TC drop is the (cheapest) way to correct a problem with driveshaft angles front and back, but Most don’t like doing it this way because it affects belly skid clearances. It could be that simple for you depending on budget and your needs, but it’s not very conducive to offroading like an sye and cardon driveshaft upgrade would be. which I recommend on anything over 3” lift. Especially if you’re going to be offroading your jeep. And here’s the problem with that, is if you are very serious don’t spend money on your old TC, spend 3k and do it right, and replace your old transfer case entirely with a 5.0 atlas 2 transfer case and up your crawl ratio to 100:1. It’s the ultimate option with a driveshaft, So as you can see there are many options here I’ve been through them all and they all work, but it’s all about how serious you are.
@@bingobandit you will need to make the transfer case accept a DC driveshaft by installing a slip yoke eliminator kit. This can be in the form of a hack n tap or replacing the tail housing on the transfer case I’ll link both kits here and the video. 🍻🍻 SYE kit: amzn.to/4d76wxP Video: How To Install SYE Kit On Np 231 Transfer Case 87-06 Jeep Wrangler Tj Xj Lj ua-cam.com/video/WlwwvQUThCc/v-deo.html
Awesome video. so i dont need to worry about the t case angle correct, even if i dont have a double cardan on my drive shaft ? I can use JUST the drive shaft angle and the rear diff angle to figure it out?
Thanks for sharing your expertise. Question: my drive shaft angle is 13.6, pinion is 3.6 and caster is at 5.4 So do I need to rotate my pinion to go at around 12? It’s for a 2008, jk on 3.5 lift 37 inch tires
The only real way to achieve perfect caster is to clock the Cs. Now that the jeep is lifted the pinion angle is the main concern. The best setup for pinion angle is anywhere between 0-3 degrees in relation to the shaft. As you rotate the pinion up its angle will increase and the shafts angle will decrease. So it won’t necessarily be 12 degrees, pinion should be 0-3 degrees in “difference” of the shaft angle . 12 on the shaft 9 on the pinion 12-9=3 , so a 9, 10 or 11 would be acceptable. Just keep in mind that as you increase pinion angle shaft angle decreases. Play with it and Find the sweet spot. 🍻
Hi ! Excellent video. Thank you. I replaced my rear control arms and corrected my rear pinion angle at the same time. I have a question though. I set the lower at the same length but when I tried to install the second upper control arm, the hole in the bracket and the one in the sleeve did not align. Is it normal that the left upper not to be the same length as the right ?
It’s ok to be a different lengths as long as the axle is square to the frame, and you don’t have any vibrations. The fronts are usually where there’s a problem but off 1/2” or less is not a big deal. There can be some variations on the axle mounts. 🍻
Yes, but you would still need an SYE and cardon drive shaft and use shims rather than adjusting arms. You would also need to account for axle wrap. Better to be around the 3 to 4 degrees as the pinion gets loaded there will be some flex or wrap in the springs. So the pinion when load remains in the sweet spot between 3-0 degrees. Which I do discuss in my Jeep XJ lift kit install video. 🍻🍻
I sure appreciate your video it helped me alot with setting the rear pinion angle. However now im having driveline vibration issues up front and cant find a single thing to help me find what my angles shoould be up in the front they always talk about the rear. I guess my question would is the front pinion angle simialer to the rear pinion angle. Any help or addvise i would greatly appreciate it ive been with out my jeep fr about 7 months just due to this one issue and no shop will touch it.
Yes the rules for the rear apply to the front, however you will need to adjust pinion with upper control arms. Also you can easily throw your caster out of wack. So lower control arms are also necessary depending on your lift, lower control arms will push that axle out further allowing to correct caster and pinion angle, pinion angle is always priority over caster . Once you get to 4” or above, caster becomes a real problem. Sometimes if your tj is equipped you can adjust caster at the encentric bolts axle side of the lower control arms. Definitely make sure your drive line is good! Hope that help ! Thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thank you so much for that helpful information you gave me a couple of hours ago. That proved to be very helpful and I do have to say after a couple hours of wrenching adjusting and driving i finally have my tj back up and on the road. I seriously can not thank you and you're channel enough for that advice..
I'm doing this in the next week, I'll post an update when I'm done. Very informative and the -3 degrees part was on point. Did you have a bracket for the brake line on your control arm?
I was planning on making them for the controll arms I just haven’t been able to get to it yet as I’m currently caught up in a build series. I think I’ll Revisit that sometime soon. As for now they are just loosely zipped tied. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Mine have stock ones that I'll have to use the rotary tool to cut-off the brake line. I've done some grinding and went to machinist school so it should be pretty easy but everything is a liability..
Got the parts, they were a little harder on the muffler side but other than that, they went right in and stopped the vibration. Went the full -3 degrees 107ds/104p. Thank you for posting this, it really helped. Although..I don't have a torque wrench if you're in the area..🏴☠
Another update...had to take them off and adjust another two more times and went to an equal pinion/driveshaft angle. I've got knobby tires so I'm pretty much going to get it aligned in the AM and ask about looking into it.
Absolutely, if you have a factory driveshaft with only two U joints then the transfer case angle does matter in relation to the factory driveshaft and pinion angle, especially if you have a lift and or transfer case drop. But if you are removing the transfer case drop , have a lift , installed a SYE kit and adapted a double cardon driveshaft, are using the factory skid plate and the lift isn’t over 5” then we can assume your transfer case is in the factory position and the double cardon covers the angles for the new lift height. The transfer case is bolted in the factory position and can’t be adjusted. The pinion angle is what we need to correct! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@amprepairguy I have fixed length lowers so the uppers land where the bolts fit though the frame mount when the pinion angle is set ! I would assume that if your lowers are exactly the same length , the uppers will land where they land! They should be close to the same length Thanks for watching
Yes but you will need adjustable upper control arms to adjust this. On an Lp Dana 30 moving the pinion up 4.5 degrees is about the max you would want to go, beyond you loose caster. That changes if you were to swap in an HP 30 wich is mentioned in this video: ua-cam.com/video/tFJ0jYcF3iw/v-deo.htmlsi=3xxhJebEsvv9sQsA
Originally with the lift I have my rear perches touched the body of the shocked (small dents) not a big deal. I share that in my shock replacement video. When I lifted the red Jeep I bought a set of shock relocation brackets for both tjs. Now there is zero clearance issues and no more dents. I cover this in the sye install . 🍻
I don’t, but some do add more oil. It’s not necessary as the oil will get to both pinion bearings . If that’s your concern. When you change the pinion angle you do change the fill line and when you go to replace the oil for the first time after, it may seem like the axle housing was over full. It’s not. To refill go by the axle housings oil capacity, rather than going by the bottom of the fill hole, when fluid starts spilling out. .
They are procomp lowers , I’ll be switching them out soon for the rubicon express or freedom offroad. And they do help with adjustment because they are fixed. The lift is designed for them to be at the length!
Yes it’s the same up front but keep in mind you also change caster. The rule of thumb is pinion always before caster. if still out of wack a set of adjustable lower control arm will push that axle out further allowing to make the necessary corrections
Does this green jeep have sye? I’m looking to do 3in lift on mine, will i need to replace front control arms? Or just the rear control arm to correct angle?
Yes sye, front lowers should come with your kit, uppers no. Rear uppers yes if sye and not a trans drop. I would suggest to replace all control arms front and year with new adjustable control arms. That way you don’t have old parts with new part. Also you can adjust caster and move forward out your front axle if needed.
@@eriktheroofer you can if anything add a 1” trans drop. Keep in mind depending on what your doing that set up would not be conducive to heavy offroading. A stock jeep is still very capable with a winch. I’d suggest if you do want a lift save up and wait to get something good. Would definitely be worth the wait if you go that route
Hey man i bought a jeep tj lifted don’t know much about it but I replaced all with RC 4” lift and forgot to drop the transfer case so I did it yesterday and now I hear a loud grinding noise
How come you're set up is different than every single opinion angle I've seen ever in my life. You differential is aiming up there's no oil getting into your bearing. And aren't you supposed to be at 3 1/2 or 4°. I'm so confused.
Yes you may have to take a pry bar and bend the metal housing of the tank inward so the track bar clears. That’s what I do , but I’ve seen people cut that excess off.
Dude this was the simplest most informative video I have seen on this topic and makes tackling this job so much easier. Just bought a tj with driveline vibration after installing a SYE and this made me confident enough to be able to tackle it on my own!
Awesome, i appreciate it thank you for watching 🙏🍻
The most informative vid I've found on this so far. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Best video I've seen that explains perfectly
Welcome to the channel, thanks for watching 🍻
“And I’m gonna tighten it to what I call ✨hella✨ tight” 😆
Just bought my anglefinder, weekend project on my 98 TJ, great vid!!!
That’s awesome, those angle finders definitely come in handy. Thanks for watching 🍻
I sure do appreciate your content. I just need to work up enough confidence to jump in and replace some suspension parts on my 98 TJ. You make it look easy, but I know it isn't always smooth sailing.
There’s definitely some work involved but I think it’s definitely doable for the DIYer who has some basic tools and the time thanks for watching I appreciate it🍻
thanks for this, super helpful and clear. no more vibes with my new dc drive shaft!
Very cool, thanks for watching 🍻
Did you have any issues with the track bar bracket hitting your gas tank when a making adjustments to pinion angle??
Well broken down and detailed compared to other videos I've seen on pinion angles .
Thanks for watching 🍻
Good for a double cardan shaft. If you have a stock shaft, you will want the pinion angle 1 degree "higher" (diff lower) than the transfer case.
Yes for those shafts, I don’t run adjustable control arm or lift without some kind of transfer case drop to correct the angle. If I had to adjust or check, I keep the pinion parallel to the transfer case.
How would I adjust the angle of the pinion with a leaf spring rear end. I have a 1993 wrangler.
@@msc1064 it just depends on what you have tell me more about your setup? On a tj with spring coils you have fixed upper and lower control arms so the pinion doesn’t move. On a leaf sprung suspension on a YJ or XJ the axle is not considered fixed and moves upwards under load. So pinion angle in relationship to driveshaft should be around 6-4 degrees. And the axle is loaded it will move upwards into the sweet spot of 1-3 degrees. This is called axle wrap and should be accounted for during setup on leaf sprung suspension. A little different than a tj.
I talk about it briefly in this video Jeep Cherokee XJ Build - DIY 4.5” Suspension Lift kit Installation
ua-cam.com/video/dnDXSVpsp7Y/v-deo.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD I have a stock YJ and when I put new stock leaf springs on it changed the angle of my drive shaft I am not sure of the angle. I also don’t get any vibration either I am wondering if I need to do anything else or just leave it alone or maybe put a SYE on it. Like I said I have no issues at all. Just trying to be pro active
@@msc1064then I would do nothing if they are the stock replacement springs. Keep in mind there are several other way to correct problems, For every one 1” of lift it’s about 1/4” of transfer case drop you need to correct the driveshaft angles on a leaf spring suspension. A TC drop is the (cheapest) way to correct a problem with driveshaft angles front and back, but Most don’t like doing it this way because it affects belly skid clearances. It could be that simple for you depending on budget and your needs, but it’s not very conducive to offroading like an sye and cardon driveshaft upgrade would be. which I recommend on anything over 3” lift. Especially if you’re going to be offroading your jeep. And here’s the problem with that, is if you are very serious don’t spend money on your old TC, spend 3k and do it right, and replace your old transfer case entirely with
a 5.0 atlas 2 transfer case and up your crawl ratio to 100:1. It’s the ultimate option with a driveshaft, So as you can see there are many options here I’ve been through them all and they all work, but it’s all about how serious you are.
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank you very much for the advice. Great stuff.
Thanks, helped a lot, is there a double cardan and driveshaft stock to buy for a 98 TJ, or do I need a to a driveshaft shop modify anything?
@@bingobandit you will need to make the transfer case accept a DC driveshaft by installing a slip yoke eliminator kit. This can be in the form of a hack n tap or replacing the tail housing on the transfer case I’ll link both kits here and the video. 🍻🍻
SYE kit: amzn.to/4d76wxP
Video: How To Install SYE Kit On Np 231 Transfer Case 87-06 Jeep Wrangler Tj Xj Lj
ua-cam.com/video/WlwwvQUThCc/v-deo.html
Question rear driveline is 20.4 and pinion angle is 18.0. What’s your thoughts on this? 97 Jeep TJ 35’s and 4.5” lift
It’s within 3 degrees you are good 👍🏼 how’s caster?
Awesome video. so i dont need to worry about the t case angle correct, even if i dont have a double cardan on my drive shaft ? I can use JUST the drive shaft angle and the rear diff angle to figure it out?
No this video is for DC driveshafts only. If you have a two joint slip yoke shaft the tc should be parallel with pinion.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. Question: my drive shaft angle is 13.6, pinion is 3.6 and caster is at 5.4 So do I need to rotate my pinion to go at around 12?
It’s for a 2008, jk on 3.5 lift 37 inch tires
The only real way to achieve perfect caster is to clock the Cs. Now that the jeep is lifted the pinion angle is the main concern. The best setup for pinion angle is anywhere between 0-3 degrees in relation to the shaft. As you rotate the pinion up its angle will increase and the shafts angle will decrease. So it won’t necessarily be 12 degrees, pinion should be 0-3 degrees in “difference” of the shaft angle . 12 on the shaft 9 on the pinion 12-9=3 , so a 9, 10 or 11 would be acceptable. Just keep in mind that as you increase pinion angle shaft angle decreases. Play with it and Find the sweet spot. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank you very much, I’ll give a try today.
Thank you for your good explanation
Hi ! Excellent video. Thank you. I replaced my rear control arms and corrected my rear pinion angle at the same time.
I have a question though. I set the lower at the same length but when I tried to install the second upper control arm, the hole in the bracket and the one in the sleeve did not align. Is it normal that the left upper not to be the same length as the right ?
It’s ok to be a different lengths as long as the axle is square to the frame, and you don’t have any vibrations. The fronts are usually where there’s a problem but off 1/2” or less is not a big deal. There can be some variations on the axle mounts. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank you so much ! Have a great day 😊
Does this information transfer over to a leaf spring set up
Yes, but you would still need an SYE and cardon drive shaft and use shims rather than adjusting arms. You would also need to account for axle wrap. Better to be around the 3 to 4 degrees as the pinion gets loaded there will be some flex or wrap in the springs. So the pinion when load remains in the sweet spot between 3-0 degrees.
Which I do discuss in my Jeep XJ lift kit install video. 🍻🍻
Thanks, that really is helpful. I will check out your other video’s too.
🍻thank for watching, I appreciate it
I sure appreciate your video it helped me alot with setting the rear pinion angle. However now im having driveline vibration issues up front and cant find a single thing to help me find what my angles shoould be up in the front they always talk about the rear. I guess my question would is the front pinion angle simialer to the rear pinion angle. Any help or addvise i would greatly appreciate it ive been with out my jeep fr about 7 months just due to this one issue and no shop will touch it.
Yes the rules for the rear apply to the front, however you will need to adjust pinion with upper control arms. Also you can easily throw your caster out of wack. So lower control arms are also necessary depending on your lift, lower control arms will push that axle out further allowing to correct caster and pinion angle, pinion angle is always priority over caster . Once you get to 4” or above, caster becomes a real problem. Sometimes if your tj is equipped you can adjust caster at the encentric bolts axle side of the lower control arms. Definitely make sure your drive line is good! Hope that help ! Thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thank you so much for that helpful information you gave me a couple of hours ago. That proved to be very helpful and I do have to say after a couple hours of wrenching adjusting and driving i finally have my tj back up and on the road. I seriously can not thank you and you're channel enough for that advice..
I'm doing this in the next week, I'll post an update when I'm done. Very informative and the -3 degrees part was on point. Did you have a bracket for the brake line on your control arm?
I was planning on making them for the controll arms I just haven’t been able to get to it yet as I’m currently caught up in a build series. I think I’ll Revisit that sometime soon. As for now they are just loosely zipped tied. 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Mine have stock ones that I'll have to use the rotary tool to cut-off the brake line. I've done some grinding and went to machinist school so it should be pretty easy but everything is a liability..
Got the parts, they were a little harder on the muffler side but other than that, they went right in and stopped the vibration. Went the full -3 degrees 107ds/104p. Thank you for posting this, it really helped. Although..I don't have a torque wrench if you're in the area..🏴☠
Another update...had to take them off and adjust another two more times and went to an equal pinion/driveshaft angle. I've got knobby tires so I'm pretty much going to get it aligned in the AM and ask about looking into it.
@@ryancavanaugh4479 I’m in CA and you can use my TQ wench anytime
so whats the angle off transfer case to drive shaft? thats a big factor in vibrations as well!
Absolutely, if you have a factory driveshaft with only two U joints then the transfer case angle does matter in relation to the factory driveshaft and pinion angle, especially if you have a lift and or transfer case drop. But if you are removing the transfer case drop , have a lift , installed a SYE kit and adapted a double cardon driveshaft, are using the factory skid plate and the lift isn’t over 5” then we can assume your transfer case is in the factory position and the double cardon covers the angles for the new lift height. The transfer case is bolted in the factory position and can’t be adjusted. The pinion angle is what we need to correct! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Absolutely the Best video on UA-cam on the subject..Thank you for making this video.
@@rustygroves5822 thank you for watching, I appreciate it! 🍻
Very informative video. Keep up the great work!
I appreciate it , thanks for watching
Do the rear uppers need to be the same length, or just adjust so bolt slides through with no resistance
Thank you for the video
@@amprepairguy I have fixed length lowers so the uppers land where the bolts fit though the frame mount when the pinion angle is set ! I would assume that if your lowers are exactly the same length , the uppers will land where they land! They should be close to the same length Thanks for watching
Thank you for the swift reply ,Lowers are exactly the same .
Made very easy to replicate
Thank you very much
@@ATEMOFFROADhey man what is your fixed lowers control arms f/r eye to eye measurement, would really appreciate the answer
How do you drop the rear end angle
How to bring the pinion back down? I have the uppers removed and the pinion won’t droop down
Get the weight off it, use jack stands under frame use floor jack under the axle. Block of wood against tub and bottle jack between pinion
Is it possible to do it font front axle?
Anything is possible, but with the front axle keep in mind your castor steering angle.
Yes but you will need adjustable upper control arms to adjust this. On an Lp Dana 30 moving the pinion up 4.5 degrees is about the max you would want to go, beyond you loose caster. That changes if you were to swap in an HP 30 wich is mentioned in this video: ua-cam.com/video/tFJ0jYcF3iw/v-deo.htmlsi=3xxhJebEsvv9sQsA
How is your spring perch when you rotate your axle?
Originally with the lift I have my rear perches touched the body of the shocked (small dents) not a big deal. I share that in my shock replacement video. When I lifted the red Jeep I bought a set of shock relocation brackets for both tjs. Now there is zero clearance issues and no more dents. I cover this in the sye install . 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thanks! I'll check out those videos
Do you add more gear oil?
I don’t, but some do add more oil. It’s not necessary as the oil will get to both pinion bearings . If that’s your concern. When you change the pinion angle you do change the fill line and when you go to replace the oil for the first time after, it may seem like the axle housing was over full. It’s not. To refill go by the axle housings oil capacity, rather than going by the bottom of the fill hole, when fluid starts spilling out. .
@ATEMOFFROAD thank for the reply and info, I have aftermarket covers on with two fill plugs. I'll add just a little more. Thank you!
yooo. so your lowers are fixed? which ones are they? do they help correct wheelbase after upper adjustment?
They are procomp lowers , I’ll be switching them out soon for the rubicon express or freedom offroad. And they do help with adjustment because they are fixed. The lift is designed for them to be at the length!
is the same for the front shaft and pinion?
Yes it’s the same up front but keep in mind you also change caster. The rule of thumb is pinion always before caster. if still out of wack a set of adjustable lower control arm will push that axle out further allowing to make the necessary corrections
Yeah did the app on my phone and phone slipped and fell. Guess I needed a new screen anyways...haha
Lol tell me how i got the angle, and was walking back to grab the jack and my phone fell like a fucking foot and cracked
Does this green jeep have sye? I’m looking to do 3in lift on mine, will i need to replace front control arms? Or just the rear control arm to correct angle?
Yes sye, front lowers should come with your kit, uppers no. Rear uppers yes if sye and not a trans drop. I would suggest to replace all control arms front and year with new adjustable control arms. That way you don’t have old parts with new part. Also you can adjust caster and move forward out your front axle if needed.
@@ATEMOFFROAD if i do 2.5in lift with 1in body lift do you think I could get away from sye/driveshaft angle?
@@eriktheroofer you can if anything add a 1” trans drop. Keep in mind depending on what your doing that set up would not be conducive to heavy offroading. A stock jeep is still very capable with a winch. I’d suggest if you do want a lift save up and wait to get something good. Would definitely be worth the wait if you go that route
Hey man i bought a jeep tj lifted don’t know much about it but I replaced all with RC 4” lift and forgot to drop the transfer case so I did it yesterday and now I hear a loud grinding noise
Did the transfer case drop kit come with the 4” lift kit you installed? What driveshaft are your using? , and have you adjust the pinion?
@@ATEMOFFROAD not sure just got the jeep so not sure if it’s stock transfer case and drive shaft and yes it did come with the lift
Wish I could send you a video it’s making a crazy grinding noise now
Informative
How come you're set up is different than every single opinion angle I've seen ever in my life. You differential is aiming up there's no oil getting into your bearing. And aren't you supposed to be at 3 1/2 or 4°. I'm so confused.
He needs to do more youtube university.
I would think a zero degree would shorten the life of your u joints.
anyone that needs an app to calculate a couple angles shouldn't be wrenching on vehicles
@@DD-gi6kx yeah it’s just convenient, if you suspecting a problem.
Did you have any issues with the track bar bracket hitting your gas tank when a making adjustments to pinion angle??
Yes you may have to take a pry bar and bend the metal housing of the tank inward so the track bar clears. That’s what I do , but I’ve seen people cut that excess off.