Part 2/3: Ram 4500-5500 series truck rear brake rotor/hub removal
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- Опубліковано 7 кві 2015
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Motorcity Mechanic
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Welcome to the 3 part video series on replacing the rear brake rotors on the Ram 4500-5500 series of trucks. Make sure to check out each part so as to not miss any of the important steps, warnings, and specs related to this repair.
Motorcity Mechanic is your online source of Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep and Ram repair videos. The videos are designed to help everyone from the average DIY, all the way up to the professional level tech. Make sure to subscribe so that you get notified of all the new videos that keep getting added weekly.
Part 1: • Part 1/3: Ram 4500-550...
Part 2: • Part 2/3: Ram 4500-550...
Part 3: • Part 3/3: Ram 4500-550...
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(165) - Авто та транспорт
Well Dave, I gave it a try to day replacing the rear rotors/brakes. Everything went well and easy until the time to pull off the rotor/hub assembly. Must be a rust ring on the inside back edge of the rotor and it won't go over the emergency brake. Spent over an our and a half trying to chisel the rust from the inside edge of the rotor but no luck. There appears to be no way to adjust the e-brake shoes on these things like you can on trailer brakes.
Had to button everything back up and will have to call to see if there is a local mechanic who can handle this size truck and has a secret on how to get these rotor/hub assemblies off with a heavy rusted lip.
Very disappointed I couldn't finish the job, I was so close, the rest would have been a piece of cake.
Your vids are great, but if you could put in them, things to watch out for that can cause big headaches.
The rear E-brakes are adjusted like the older drums we all grew up with. There is an access plug on the back side that you take off and then you insert a screwdriver to push the e-brake self adjuster arm away from the screw adjuster and then rotate the adjuster. Also when taking rotor off or trying to.....the inner seal can stop it from coming off. If the e-brake shoes are holding it then the seal could be....it takes some sliding in on and off a bit with some force to finally get the seal to come off.....kind of like a slide hammer motion. Otherwise rust build up with be another issue. Here in Georgia we dont see those issues but I am sure its a possible issue in different parts of the country. Thanks for watching and sorry you werent able to complete the job. Thanks John for the comment and make sure to subscribe
Dave you are correct. I took a quick look this morning at passenger side wheel and see the rubber plug. I was working on the drivers side and I can just see the rubber plug behind the ebrake spring. The ebrake spring on passenger side is on top so easy to see, on the bottom on drivers side and hides the plug. I guess I'll need some way to bend the spring upwards to get at the plug and adjuster. Page 5-93 shows the adjuster on the Shop Manual.
Will try again next weekend, rain here today. I have 25+ cords of wood to cut/split/transport by Thanksgiving and need this truck back in working order soon.
Thanks again.
double check to see if there is another access plug in a different location incase they just reversed the left and right sides....If the spring is in a different orientation on one side then the access plug that we might need may be as well. Something to look into, the service info doesnt show the plug, just talks about it
MotorCity Mechanic will do, thanks again.
You are correct. I was able to check today, the driver's side rear wheel has the ebrake assembly upside down. The rubber plug is at 12 o'clock. There is no way to put an adjustment spoon in there since the leaf spring pack is in the way. I was able to pull the plug but can only get a small screwdriver in there to "fish around". You can't see anything. How did this get by the final quality check at the factory? Haven't got a clue how I'm going to back off the ebrake since you need the spoon and a small screw driver to lift up on the anti-backout spring. Will have to work on it next weekend.
Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.
Do you replace the seal every time you replace the rotors? Or just if you have a leak?
Thanks guys I'm not mechanic but I trying ok
So regular seal driver would not work?
Great video David!
I'm very confident on getting this job done. However, I have a few questions about the parts you used. What brand are they? MOPAR OEM?
My rear rotors are rusting very bad and the caliper guide pins are completely seized up due to lack of lubrication and also my caliper is having some issues as the inner brake pad wears out more than the outer one. So, I'm going to replace almost everything but should I replace the wheel seal too? If so, which brand should I go with - TIMKEN, WJB, NATIONAL or SKF.
I try to use the OEM seals but everything else I used was aftermarket.
Ok, but do I changed the wheel seals too? or if they in good shape to just leave them alone?
The seals can get pricey for sure. I recommend if your taking it completely apart to replace them. Otherwise you can see if they are leaking currentiy.....and also check to make sure they didn't seperare during the removal of the hub.
How did you get the seal out of the hub? Is there some special Mopar tool for this or will a regular seal puller work? Or did you go from the other side and use a punch to hammer it out? It looks like it is deep within the hub and not close to the top like other seals I have seen.
Actually John, I use a long pry bar. I had to get something to hold the hub assembly while prying on it to finally get it off. You might be able to come up with something else as well but thats what I use. Thanks for the question and for watching.
MotorCity Mechanic Thanks for the reply. I figure to just put the hub back in the rim, then sit/neal on the tire to hold it down. Wasn't sure if using a pry bar would wreck the bearing since there is littlr clearence between them.
Well Dave, I gave it a try to day replacing the rear rotors/brakes. Everything went well and easy until the time to pull off the rotor/hub assembly. Must be a rust ring on the inside back edge of the rotor and it won't go over the emergency brake. Spent over an our and a half trying to chisel the rust from the inside edge of the rotor but no luck. There appears to be no way to adjust the e-brake shoes on these things like you can on trailer brakes.
Had to button everything back up and will have to call to see if there is a local mechanic who can handle this size truck and has a secret on how to get these rotor/hub assemblies off with a heavy rusted lip.
Very disappointed I couldn't finish the job, I was so close, the rest would have been a piece of cake.
Your vids are great, but if you could put in them, things to watch out for that can cause big headaches.
How did you take off the top bolt on the brake caliper mount??
Using the correct size wrench and also adding another large wrench to the end to give more leverage by locking the open end of the wrench on the bolt to the closed end of the second wrench. That bolt is stupid tight.
Put a torch fire 🔥 for a few seconds buddy I do it and very easy to remove the upper bolt 🔩 Cuz they have a lock tied for sure
What size is the big axle nut socket ?
Sorry....wish I knew. Havent done this repair in forever. I will try to keep my eye out and see if I can find out the next time one comes in for that.
3 1/4"
What’s Socket size
Good videos but they could be even better if you didn’t skip most of the work that is the part us viewers like to see.