You should set your line dampers 2/3 the way to your anchor point. If you put them in the middle and the anchor let's go, the end of the line and any piece of metal still attached is going to come all the way back to the Jeep before the damper can have any chance to slow it down.
So i don't own a vehicle, but I like to learn about stuff. This is best explanation and demonstration of using recovery gear that I have witnessed so far. Even without having the experience, I am certain that I would be an asset in the case that I found myself in a recovery situation. Many thanks!
Great Video, the only thing I would add for new people is to remind them that once they have everything hooked up to slowly start Winching and stop multiple times before getting taut to check that the lines stay where they are supposed to as you're reeling in the line! Winching is 10x easier with a buddy!
Well... Since you asked: My tip would be to store your shackles in your recovery bag instead of on your bumper. Eliminates the need for isolators, etc., as well as the noise/corrosion issue. Total cost: $0.00
KK you made an excellent point more politely than I was going to … you have to disconnect the shackles anyway when you are going to use them so why get them dirty, beat up, etc? (“Mall runner” was going to be in my comment)
Nice video, well done. I would add that when you put your D ring pin back in, tighten down then back out 1/4 turn to prevent binding when stress is applied during winching.
I do quite a bit of winching, rigging and such. I used my winch to uproot unwanted cedar trees. I use 22k test 3/8 synthetic line on the winch. I also deleted everything metal where the rope is concerned. I tie my own soft shackles and havent had a single line or shackle in about 200 cedar trees uprooted. 2" to about 10" trees. Grab them about 6 feet above the ground and the come right down. Learning to tie my own soft shackles has made my off roading more enjoyable. I carry ex.tra rope that can be rope, or made into shackles or whatever i want. Just a thought.
Additional tip. If you wheel in the winter with snow and ice don’t put your shackles into the bumper or the hitch until you need them. In freezing weather wheeling through water they ice up so bad they are almost impossible to break free to use.
Nice video, I am new to winching, trying to figure out what gear to buy and how to use it properly, this video really helped with a multiple of techniques. I highly recommend watching, especially if your a green horn like me.
I finally know what to do with the rubber washers or plastic guards on the Dring black isolator. remove the splinter hazard PLEASE I am totally stupid, I am so mad at myself, whatever happened with F'ing instructions Gear America. I trust you...
I was always taught the snatch block should be on the load you are pulling. At 8 minutes in you put it on the tree. That actually cuts your winch pulling power in half. I also have seen many video demonstrations with tensiometer hooked up that proves this.
It’s cuts the speed of the winch in half, as well as the stress. This translates into a doubling for the mechanical advantage. If the Jeep weighs 4000 lbs, running a winchline to the tree, around a pulley and back to the jeep provides the mechanical advantage and only uses half of the power to pull, but results in a slower overall pull. The line going to the pulley is regular speed, but coming back to to fixed point on the bumper is much slower.
Not sure if I answer the question. As long as the pull (winch) goes out to a fixed point with a pulley (snatch) and back to itself (bumper holding winch) it accomplishes the mechanical advantage.
Very informative. As a newbie i was curious how to hook everything up. Great demonstration. What pound winch would be suffice for a JKU? 10,000K or 12,000k? I prefer the 10,000K (cheaper lol).
Great intro to winching for us newbies. Q: when you use a snatch block to double or triple pulling power, does stress on the winch line also increase, or does it remain same as single line pull? Thanks.
if your winch pulls 10,000 pounds each 'leg' of the setup will have up to 10,000. so the answer is no. the stress on each individual leg will not increase but total pulling power will. 2 lines would be 20,000 and 3 lines would be 30,000. (a 6-10% less due to friction but you get the point)
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors thanks for the reply. I’ve been trying to save some Extra $ to get the synthetic but maybe just having good habits and safety protocol could save me a couple hundred bucks with the steel line.
A 3rd would quadruple the power! Each line involved with the actual pull adds to the power... Example: rope - block - rope = 2x power... So rope - block - rope -block - rope - block - rope = 4x power! Another way to look at it is like slicing something for each time you cut you get 1 higher... Example: 1 cut through the middle of a cake = 2 pieces of cake... 2 "equal" cuts = 3 pieces of cake and so on! Hope this helps...
I have an F150 with a BOSS PLOW. Can you explain how I could get my truck unstuck from slippery and icy snow? I have some items that I collected along the way; 5 snatch blocks rated at 20,000 lbs each; 2 synthetic towing lines; and 2 shackles. My F150 came with 2 steel towing rings in the front of the truck, and a 2” Reese Hitch in the back of the truck. I do not have a winch. Could you tell how I can make use of what I have to pull my F150 out of being stuck in deep snow? I realize a winch would be very useful in this situation. What else would I need to get my truck out? Could you explain how Would set up the snatch blocks. Thank you. Richard
Snatch blocks are for use with a winch. To self-recover in a deep snow situation, I’d recommend a good set of traction boards. Without a buddy to pull or a winch, you’re a bit out of luck. The pulleys and straps need a pulling source…this is the best reason to have a winch.
Probably a stupid question, but let’s say the load is cut in half or the winch is twice as strong. Is that to say a 12k winch could move 24k? And if so, is that acceptable or does it somehow risk overloading the winch (ie. Breaking the winch or the line)? I’m thinking based on how you described it, no. It’s just twice as efficient? TIA
Nothing makes a 12000lb winch a 24000lb winch. Using a pulley cuts the speed in half and provides a mechanical advantage of essentially a spinning lever to apply pressure to the pull. The mechanical advantage saves the winch, but puts the pressure on the line. So Long story short, YES, using a snatch block does increase the weight on the line being used. My 13000 lb winch has 30,000+ capable line(5/8) Most standard 3/8” winch line has a 12000 lb working load limit, with a 2:1 safety factor producing an MBS (minimum breaking strength) of 24000 lbs. Always keep this in mind when using a snatch, but also keep in mind a Jeep or Pickup weighs a heck of a lot less….and if you’re 24,000 pounds stuck, you’ll most like be using more than one winch or heavier duty removal. Hope this helps!
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors Yes it does thx. Would it be fair to say (if I understand you correctly) that using a snatch block/pulley can then double the pulling power on the line (ie. a 12k winch pulling 24k strong), but won’t cause more stress on the winch itself? How about stress on the truck / bumper where it’s mounted? Thx for helping. My truck is a pretty heavy 1 ton Dually, about 9k, so it has me thinking about these issues. And would using an additional pulley then triple stress to the line?
The pulley increases the stress on the line, but splits the pull stress between the anchor and the bumper, theoretically. The line speed being cut in half really allows you to monitor what’s going on. If your dually weighs 9k, and you double that stuck in mud to 18k, you are still within the tolerances for a snatch pull with a 3/8” line as well as the frame mount for your bumper/winch mount. Just go slow, and keep a close eye on your recovery.
As someone who has never used a winch before can you tell me what the metal block on the end of your cable is for? Why dont you just hook the cable loop directly through your shackle?
That is a winch hook alternative made by Factor56. It not only is a safe attachment, but hold the winch rope in place when wound it. It’s called a Flatlink, Because it sits flat against a fairly when not in use. It’s never a good idea to run a bare loop through anything. I hope this answer your question… If you have any other questions, let me know.
In addition to what BC said: the eye of the Flatlink (or any proper winch hook) has a smooth, flat surface machined into it for the cable to pass across which distributes the load evenly across the area of the cable that runs through the hook. Both the cable and the shackle pin are round with no flat surfaces, and therefore focus the load on one spot where the cable contacts the pin, creating a potential failure point at both the pin and the cable; this is why it's inadvisable to connect a shackle directly to a winch line. You'll notice that whatever connection points BC does use with shackles (whether it be the winch hook, straps and/or secure vehicle mounting points) those connection points have wide flat surfaces for the shackle pin to contact, which distribute load across the length of the pin.
It really costs down the speed and required force drastically when you add more pulleys. I would imagine if you used 8 of them, a human could easily pull it. It would move very slowly at that point.
You can bury a spare tire and attach to the wheel. There are also large nylon bags, with attachment straps. Several videos online how to use then. You will need a good shovel also. You can anchor to another vehicle. I’ve seen people use premium grade 2 inch, thick walled pipe, about 4 foot long. Center the pipe between two large rocks. Or center on two smaller trees and pull from the center. In one situation, a guy cut a 6-7” diameter tree branch, about 4 foot long off a tree. Then dragged it close enough to his vehicle so he could anchor to it. He buried the log about 4-5 feet deep horizontally. It was strong enough to get his truch.
Light truck unstuck with his winch. It took him several hours. But it worked. Desperate times, called for desperate measures. With experience, you will learn where not to go! If you are unsure stop. Get out of the vehicle and check out the terrain. Are there good anchor points? Do you have enough recovery gear? Do you have cell phone coverage? Food - water, etc. consider an alternate route. It’s not uncommon for an “off road” recovery to cost hundreds of dollars or more. And depending on your particular situation, you may not be able to get a recovery vehicle for 1-3 days. Carry some basic tools. Especially a 8-10 inch adjustable wrench. They are great for loosening the shackle pin once they tighten up.
You should set your line dampers 2/3 the way to your anchor point. If you put them in the middle and the anchor let's go, the end of the line and any piece of metal still attached is going to come all the way back to the Jeep before the damper can have any chance to slow it down.
Good tip...thanks for your input!
Hi there. Good clip. I back my d shackles out 1/2 a turn to prevent them from binding.
So i don't own a vehicle, but I like to learn about stuff. This is best explanation and demonstration of using recovery gear that I have witnessed so far. Even without having the experience, I am certain that I would be an asset in the case that I found myself in a recovery situation. Many thanks!
Thank you mygear America came in today, no instructions, video was easier.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You did a great job explaining things to this rookie/newbie.
No problem!
Great Video, the only thing I would add for new people is to remind them that once they have everything hooked up to slowly start Winching and stop multiple times before getting taut to check that the lines stay where they are supposed to as you're reeling in the line! Winching is 10x easier with a buddy!
Well... Since you asked: My tip would be to store your shackles in your recovery bag instead of on your bumper. Eliminates the need for isolators, etc., as well as the noise/corrosion issue. Total cost: $0.00
But it doesn’t look as cool……
KK you made an excellent point more politely than I was going to … you have to disconnect the shackles anyway when you are going to use them so why get them dirty, beat up, etc? (“Mall runner” was going to be in my comment)
@@chipsterb4946unless you use a hook 😁
Nice video, well done. I would add that when you put your D ring pin back in, tighten down then back out 1/4 turn to prevent binding when stress is applied during winching.
I do quite a bit of winching, rigging and such. I used my winch to uproot unwanted cedar trees. I use 22k test 3/8 synthetic line on the winch. I also deleted everything metal where the rope is concerned. I tie my own soft shackles and havent had a single line or shackle in about 200 cedar trees uprooted. 2" to about 10" trees. Grab them about 6 feet above the ground and the come right down. Learning to tie my own soft shackles has made my off roading more enjoyable. I carry ex.tra rope that can be rope, or made into shackles or whatever i want. Just a thought.
Additional tip. If you wheel in the winter with snow and ice don’t put your shackles into the bumper or the hitch until you need them. In freezing weather wheeling through water they ice up so bad they are almost impossible to break free to use.
Haha yes!! We live in the desert, but that’s a great tip for folks up north!
Very Handy to have a kit like that even if you don't have a winch. Someone may have a winch and no kit and there you go. Fred.
This is where a house trailer anchor comes in handy for sand!
Fantastic video, from sri lanka
Thanks. I just bought my first recovery kit. I hope I don't need it but it's nice to have.
Thanks for this video. Helped a lot. Art
Thank you for this video. I learned a lot.
Awesome video! Thanks brother
Thank You, that was GREAT !!
VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
WELL done.
Bravo ,excellent presentation .
Great video, thank you!
Nice video, I am new to winching, trying to figure out what gear to buy and how to use it properly, this video really helped with a multiple of techniques. I highly recommend watching, especially if your a green horn like me.
Great job on video. Clear concise instruction. Just what i need for my snatch block pair i got.
Easy breezy, I never knew how. Desert means digging a deep hole, place a rock, catus in hole, or walk home. Bring back buddy with backhoe.
00:48 Give that man an Oscar! lol
Good video Chris. Look forward to more videos for us down in Australia. Hope the riots don't impact upon you.
We are safe for now! Thanks for the support! Hopefully someday we will shoot some video in Australia!
Nice work!Liked and subscribed!
I just ordered yalls mega recovery kit thank you
Great video SIR!! Thank you!
What if the tree likes being choked?
Awesome. Very informative.
What’s the old saying? “It’s better to have and not need it than need and not have it!”
Exactly!
You should have shown the method that allows 4 times pulling power with 2 snatch blocks as well!
Watch the whole video. It’s in there. 👍🏻
Great stuff Chris would love to hit the trail with you sometime
Let’s go!!
I finally know what to do with the rubber washers or plastic guards on the Dring black isolator. remove the splinter hazard PLEASE I am totally stupid, I am so mad at myself, whatever happened with F'ing instructions Gear America. I trust you...
Nice video. I have a Tundra... I can pull you out. lol.
I believe your single & double line pulls will require the same amount of force.
Your three line pull will require ½ the force.
Do a change of direction or how to get back up of the road
I bought a shackle and a 48ton tow strap to pull cars outta my driveway! People always parking in front of my driveway blocking me in
great video, only one piece of advice, a mic for future videos, I can barely hear you
I was always taught the snatch block should be on the load you are pulling.
At 8 minutes in you put it on the tree. That actually cuts your winch pulling power in half. I also have seen many video demonstrations with tensiometer hooked up that proves this.
It’s cuts the speed of the winch in half, as well as the stress. This translates into a doubling for the mechanical advantage. If the Jeep weighs 4000 lbs, running a winchline to the tree, around a pulley and back to the jeep provides the mechanical advantage and only uses half of the power to pull, but results in a slower overall pull. The line going to the pulley is regular speed, but coming back to to fixed point on the bumper is much slower.
Not sure if I answer the question. As long as the pull (winch) goes out to a fixed point with a pulley (snatch) and back to itself (bumper holding winch) it accomplishes the mechanical advantage.
Anchor Point should be as low as possible😂
Can you use a bridle around an axle for recovery (axle straps seem lighter weight for tie down only) ? Thanks
WHERE THAT KIT IS MADE? OR WHAT IS THE COUTRY WHERE IT WAS MANUFACTURED?
How long do winch ropes last compared to traditional cable? Thanks.
Very informative. As a newbie i was curious how to hook everything up. Great demonstration.
What pound winch would be suffice for a JKU? 10,000K or 12,000k? I prefer the 10,000K (cheaper lol).
Honestly, I ran a 9500 lb with no issues for years on my JKU. Upgraded to a 13k because the timing was right, not the necessity.
Great intro to winching for us newbies. Q: when you use a snatch block to double or triple pulling power, does stress on the winch line also increase, or does it remain same as single line pull? Thanks.
if your winch pulls 10,000 pounds each 'leg' of the setup will have up to 10,000. so the answer is no. the stress on each individual leg will not increase but total pulling power will. 2 lines would be 20,000 and 3 lines would be 30,000. (a 6-10% less due to friction but you get the point)
Isn’t one of the big selling points of synthetic line that it does not store energy so they are inherently safer and there isn’t the need for damping?
Yes it is, but better to be in the habit. It will still snap back at you, just not as hard as steel
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors thanks for the reply. I’ve been trying to save some Extra $ to get the synthetic but maybe just having good habits and safety protocol could save me a couple hundred bucks with the steel line.
the synthetic ropes store energy but much less energy than steel. still a good habit to have because ropes can still hurt you
What happened to the stuck Jeep? You never showed that it worked :-(
Is that an Explorer II on the wrist?
I wish! It’s a Seiko Auto S.
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors still nice!
Hello so does that 3rd snatch block triple your pulling power? Awesome video thank you
A 3rd would quadruple the power! Each line involved with the actual pull adds to the power... Example: rope - block - rope = 2x power... So rope - block - rope -block - rope - block - rope = 4x power! Another way to look at it is like slicing something for each time you cut you get 1 higher... Example: 1 cut through the middle of a cake = 2 pieces of cake... 2 "equal" cuts = 3 pieces of cake and so on! Hope this helps...
I have an F150 with a BOSS PLOW. Can you explain how I could get my truck unstuck from slippery and icy snow? I have some items that I collected along the way; 5 snatch blocks rated at 20,000 lbs each; 2 synthetic towing lines; and 2 shackles. My F150 came with 2 steel towing rings in the front of the truck, and a 2” Reese Hitch in the back of the truck. I do not have a winch. Could you tell how I can make use of what I have to pull my F150 out of being stuck in deep snow? I realize a winch would be very useful in this situation. What else would I need to get my truck out? Could you explain how Would set up the snatch blocks. Thank you. Richard
Snatch blocks are for use with a winch. To self-recover in a deep snow situation, I’d recommend a good set of traction boards. Without a buddy to pull or a winch, you’re a bit out of luck. The pulleys and straps need a pulling source…this is the best reason to have a winch.
Probably a stupid question, but let’s say the load is cut in half or the winch is twice as strong. Is that to say a 12k winch could move 24k? And if so, is that acceptable or does it somehow risk overloading the winch (ie. Breaking the winch or the line)? I’m thinking based on how you described it, no. It’s just twice as efficient? TIA
Nothing makes a 12000lb winch a 24000lb winch. Using a pulley cuts the speed in half and provides a mechanical advantage of essentially a spinning lever to apply pressure to the pull. The mechanical advantage saves the winch, but puts the pressure on the line. So Long story short, YES, using a snatch block does increase the weight on the line being used. My 13000 lb winch has 30,000+ capable line(5/8) Most standard 3/8” winch line has a 12000 lb working load limit, with a 2:1 safety factor producing an MBS (minimum breaking strength) of 24000 lbs. Always keep this in mind when using a snatch, but also keep in mind a Jeep or Pickup weighs a heck of a lot less….and if you’re 24,000 pounds stuck, you’ll most like be using more than one winch or heavier duty removal. Hope this helps!
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors Yes it does thx. Would it be fair to say (if I understand you correctly) that using a snatch block/pulley can then double the pulling power on the line (ie. a 12k winch pulling 24k strong), but won’t cause more stress on the winch itself? How about stress on the truck / bumper where it’s mounted? Thx for helping. My truck is a pretty heavy 1 ton Dually, about 9k, so it has me thinking about these issues. And would using an additional pulley then triple stress to the line?
The pulley increases the stress on the line, but splits the pull stress between the anchor and the bumper, theoretically. The line speed being cut in half really allows you to monitor what’s going on. If your dually weighs 9k, and you double that stuck in mud to 18k, you are still within the tolerances for a snatch pull with a 3/8” line as well as the frame mount for your bumper/winch mount. Just go slow, and keep a close eye on your recovery.
@@BoldCanyonOutdoors Awesome & interesting, thx!
As someone who has never used a winch before can you tell me what the metal block on the end of your cable is for? Why dont you just hook the cable loop directly through your shackle?
That is a winch hook alternative made by Factor56. It not only is a safe attachment, but hold the winch rope in place when wound it. It’s called a Flatlink, Because it sits flat against a fairly when not in use. It’s never a good idea to run a bare loop through anything. I hope this answer your question… If you have any other questions, let me know.
In addition to what BC said: the eye of the Flatlink (or any proper winch hook) has a smooth, flat surface machined into it for the cable to pass across which distributes the load evenly across the area of the cable that runs through the hook. Both the cable and the shackle pin are round with no flat surfaces, and therefore focus the load on one spot where the cable contacts the pin, creating a potential failure point at both the pin and the cable; this is why it's inadvisable to connect a shackle directly to a winch line. You'll notice that whatever connection points BC does use with shackles (whether it be the winch hook, straps and/or secure vehicle mounting points) those connection points have wide flat surfaces for the shackle pin to contact, which distribute load across the length of the pin.
So how many snatch blocks before a human can pull it? Not saying to do that. Just curious what ridiculous number were looking at here.
It really costs down the speed and required force drastically when you add more pulleys. I would imagine if you used 8 of them, a human could easily pull it. It would move very slowly at that point.
@@BoldCanyonOutdoorsbetter than being stuck in the mud I suppose!
What do you anchor to in the land of no trees?
I’ve done several things...wrapped a strap around a rock, buried a hi-lift as an anchor, dug for hours...where there’s a will, there’s a way!
Dig a big hole and bury your spare….
You can bury a spare tire and attach to the wheel. There are also large nylon bags, with attachment straps. Several videos online how to use then. You will need a good shovel also.
You can anchor to another vehicle. I’ve seen people use premium grade 2 inch, thick walled pipe, about 4 foot long. Center the pipe between two large rocks. Or center on two smaller trees and pull from the center.
In one situation, a guy cut a 6-7” diameter tree branch, about 4 foot long off a tree. Then dragged it close enough to his vehicle so he could anchor to it. He buried the log about 4-5 feet deep horizontally. It was strong enough to get his truch.
Light truck unstuck with his winch. It took him several hours. But it worked. Desperate times, called for desperate measures.
With experience, you will learn where not to go! If you are unsure stop. Get out of the vehicle and check out the terrain. Are there good anchor points? Do you have enough recovery gear? Do you have cell phone coverage? Food - water, etc. consider an alternate route.
It’s not uncommon for an “off road” recovery to cost hundreds of dollars or more. And depending on your particular situation, you may not be able to get a recovery vehicle for 1-3 days.
Carry some basic tools. Especially a 8-10 inch adjustable wrench. They are great for loosening the shackle pin once they tighten up.
Wonder if someone has hooked up to a tree and the tree fell down onto the truck :D
I’ve seen it happen!
Great Video!!! thanks! so much!!