How To Build an Epoxy Form - For filling small voids, cracks and knots in wood with epoxy
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Here are some tips, tricks and methods that no one will tell you for making a very simple form to pour epoxy. Very first time user friendly. Use this for filling voids in wood on tables, counters tops, or any woodworking project you have and want to use epoxy in. Most of this I learned the hard way and wasted a lot of time and effort doing so. There’s alot of ways to do things, but this is the cheapest, fastest, and simplest way I’ve found if you don’t have a big shop and endless funds to build the expensive pour forms the big companies do. I hope it helps, feel free to leave a comment if you have more questions or tips 👍🏻.
Thanks so much. I just successfully used this technique with one variation in which I was able to clamp the tape-covered forms instead of screwing it.
Hell yes! I’m glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching 🍻
I've watched many videos on these epoxy pours, etc. and find yours to be the easiest to watch. I feel like i can repeat what you have done. Great job with explaining things.
While I probably won't be needing as big a setup as you've got here, this video was really helpful! I'm building a banjo for the first time, and the neck blank I ordered has a big ol' open knot in it. Now I know how I'm gonna take care of it! Thank you!
Thank you for watching and I’m very glad it helped!! Good luck with the project, I hope it turns out great!
Thank you this video helped me so much! It is expensive to make beginners mistakes with, I learned that the hard way 😅
Very helpful, I learned a few things, thanks!
Cheers from Tokyo!
Thank you, I appreciate it! I'm glad it helped you out.
Used this method on a big slab with substantial cracks and voids. My first ever epoxy anything! The one board I used on one end was 12x31 for an idea. This method was 100% effective. Great video thanks!
Im glad it helped ya!
This was a big help.
Great video. No BS, lots of good advice and tips. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thanks man! That’s what I was I aiming for, advice only not me talking lol!
Great video! Thank you for producing it!
Thank you for watching, I really hoped it helps!!
Thank you best video about this specific situation
I truly appreciate that! I'm glad it was able to help you out with it. I learned the hard way with this stuff and I wanted to make sure no one else had to if I could help it.
Part of the game ,love it! Great job
That’s the truth! Thanks, I’m glad you liked the video 👍🏻🍻!
Thanks man, great video.....doing a table that needs some epoxy fills.
Hope it will help ya! Dont be afraid to reach out if you have any questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.
Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing.
I’m glad it was helpful, Thank you for watching!
Thanks man.
Short and sweet thank for sharing your tips, much appreciated.
Thanks for the info I'm doing my very first epoxy pour this week
The hot glue surrounding the fill areas is brilliant
It is a life saver not having as much to sand back off for sure.
Wish I saw this a week ago. Great tips. I dealt with a huge leak that could have been prevented
Thank you! It’s a steep learning curve no doubt. Hopefully it’ll help ya in the future 🍻!
Thanks for sharing! You are correct there isn't much on the internet about this exact thing...
No, I always struggled to find stuff on it. Hope it helped!
Thank you for all the helpful advice! David
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching 👍🏻
You answered my question. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Your right about the epoxy staining!! Especially on Rubio
It can be a real let down if you don’t know it’s coming lol.
Thanks for a great video man! I’m doing some epoxy work for a grad class, and this helped a lot! Some questions still though:
-Have you had problems with the hot glue soaking into the wood?
-What is the best way to remove epoxy after the pour?
-Do you coat it al all in the inside to prevent leeching?
Another thought: The reason for the “epoxy stain” is because wood has pores, and the epoxy seeps into it. This is seen most clearly is woods like oak and walnut, but is true of every wood to some degree
I appreciate it! Hope it helped ya.
- No, the hot glue won’t soak into the wood. If it does for any reason, light sanding will take care of it.
- depending on your equipment or capabilities, a planer with a helical head or a router sled table are the best options in my opinion. If that is not an option, than a belt sander is just about the most efficient way to remove a large amount of epoxy in a hurry.
Yes, I coat every inch of the wood/substrate the epoxy will touch. This is for preventing air from escaping the wood and causing bubbles as well as leeching. More so to prevent the air bubbles and provide good adhesion.
- since this video I have changed my process some as far as the epoxy staining goes. I now put 2 coats of polyurethane on any surface there is potential for contact with epoxy. This creates a barrier so that the epoxy, colorant, and metallic can’t penetrate the top of the substrate. Sands of very quickly after as poly only creates a “plastic cap” on wood. It doesn’t penetrate very deep.
Thanks for the video! I wish I would've watched it yesterday before starting my project. Putting the hot glue around the voids would've helped, as I filled them with colored epoxy and will be topcoating with clear, but the colored overran the voids. Hopefully I can sand out the color that stained around the edges.
I’m glad it helped!! One thing that I’m not sure I added in the video was about the staining with color. I’ll be making another video soon. The tip I’d give you for that is to put two coats of polyurethane around the voids prior to filling. That creates a barrier to stop any color or epoxy from creating the stain ring around your voids.
I learned 2 things watching your video right after I tried my 1st sacrificial wood piece. First, don't round off the ends before epoxy, can't tape them right. Second build those little dams around the cracks, stuff will spread!
Great tips-super helpful
Nice discussion. My only issue is the Silicone. No problem if you cut the end off. Problem is if you inadvertently loose a drip on your wood surface. Nothing in the way of finish, of any kind, will ever stick to it. Best to use non-silicone caulk. Then you never worry about it.
Would have loved to see after pour
Thank you for sharing this, sir. I'm prepping my first slab ever (8 foot of American elm, 40 inches wide) and I have a few knots to fill. Do I need a deep pour epoxy for knots because it is several inches thick? They're really narrow.
Not a problem! I hope it helps you. Yes you will need deep pour epoxy of some sort. Depending how thick the slab is/depth of your pour will determine what one. Be sure to read the product descriptions before you buy, they will tell you what you can and can’t use the epoxy for. Always use the depth or thickness of your pour, the width doesn’t really factor in. I use wisebond deep pour epoxy, and their product is good for 1/2” - 2” thick pours at a time. Most products will give you a range like that.
will the silicone dam stain the wood?
No, that’s why the silicone is the key!
Thanks for sharing, David. Question…. Do you think that putting a light coat of polyurethane around the fill areas would prevent the staining if I slightly overfill? Easy to sand I assume yet do want to avoid that stain you talk about
Absolutely! That’s what I do to prevent the staining when I pour. I would suggest doing at least 2 coats to be safe.
What epoxy do you use for those larger knots / deformities ?? I just rough sanded my walnut table top and have no idea what to use. Was thinking total boat High performance but worried the knots and deformities are too deep and big
I have always had great luck with Wisebond Deep Pour Epoxy for the bigger knots and cracks. Depending on the size, humidity and temp it generally takes 2-3 days to harden up enough to de mold/move if needed. Ideally 7 days before you start milling or sanding it. I have in some cases used the regular epoxy to fill in super small cracks and knots but I don’t recommend it as it can not cure properly. Wide bond also makes a quick cure epoxy that I think you can pour up to an inch but it’s very temperamental and cures insanely fast so it’s very hard to work with. You really have to be on the ball when using it but I’ve had good luck with it as well. Hope it helps!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 awesome thank you. Deep pour it is for those bigger sections. One last question; is there a minimum amount needed to mix deep pour ? or can I just mix any amount (even if very little) as long as the mix ratio is correct?
@@kreativbuilds I would not mix any less than 6 oz. The reason being the smaller the amount you mix, the easier it is to get the ratios wrong. If your off just even a little bit the epoxy will not cure. So I always mix 6 oz just to be safe. I have mixed smaller amounts but I used a food scale and mixed it by weight. You will have to get those weights from Wisebond because the 2 parts don’t weigh the same per ounce. So just mixing 2:1 by weight will cause problems. Does that all make sense?
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 perfect sense. Thank you so much. Great video
You mentioned you would do a video on making a form when the hole goes all the way through the wood? Is that avail yet?
It will be soon! I have not had many epoxy projects lately, but I can set something up to show the process.
What kind of tape is on the wood?
It is sheathing/house wrap tape. Tuck Tape is the brand I like to use, but all of the brands out there work just as well.
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 thank you, I am pouring my first piece today, it’s a big dining room table. I’m nervous 😬
@@deborapowell8653 Take your time, and follow the instructions. The first ones always the toughest, but you got it. Enjoy the process!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Thankyou for your encouraging words😊
What is your preferred way to remove the hot glue dam after the epoxy has cured? I started sanding first and the hot glue turned into a big messy smear. I switched to using a chisel to pry up the hot glue but wondered if there was a better way?
I use a sharp chisel to remove as much as I can afterwards. That’s the small downfall to the hot glue. The other thing I’ve used is a metal putty knife and I sharpen the edge of it. That works well because usually it won’t cut into the wood and it’s flexible.
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 thanks. I’ve also seen folks that use a latex caulk for their dams so I might experiment with it to see if it’s easier to remove.
@@TheBradtri I’ve used clear silicone also. Downfall with caulk is the set up time. From what I’ve found removing it is a little easier in some scenarios.
yeah the bleed/soak in sucks. depends on the wood type ime. walnut, maple, sapele - havent had much isssue. Red oak....yikes avoid
Sound inconsistent
Pay better attention to your microphone.
Lol, who hurt you?
The shit plp complain about… smh hey thanks for the vid this is exactly what I was looking for