DR650 fork swaps and conversions: are USD forks worth the effort?︱Cross Training Adventure
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- crosstrainingen... DR650 fork conversions? Worth it? What's involved? We look at DR650 RMZ fork swaps. DR650 forks suck. I get plenty of questions about adapting forks from other motorbikes. But alternative forks are always a much bigger job than you think. I always suggest trying the easy stuff first instead of a DR650 KTM fork swap. Ultra budget DR650 suspension mods? Welcome to Cross Training Adventure, we are into all things dual sport and adventure on the east coast of Australia. Just try 10w fork oil and make longer fork spring spacers out of PVC pipe to compress the way-too-soft part of the dual rate springs more. So simple instead of a DR650 YZ fork conversion. Next? Aftermarket valves which you just drop into your forks and work like proper cartridge forks. In Australia the Plex valves and DXF valves are common. In the US? Cogent DDC valves and Teknik Platinum Fork Valves. Keen on adventure riding in Australia? Check out our vids. Most riders find this is all they need instead of DR650 fork swaps. Next level of suspension mods upgrade instead of DR650 fork swaps? A common conversion uses RMZ250 or RMZ450 forks. Plenty of these available. Some owners have reported the work involved. See our pinned first comment for the relevant links. YZ450F and WR450F fork conversions are fairly popular. The 250 forks work as well. One advantage here is you can find wheel bearings to fit the stock DR650 front axle. If you google around you will find other conversions too. KTM forks. DRZ400 forks. These are very long forks, you will have quite a bit of fork leg sticking above your triple clamps for these DR650 suspension mods. Now the difficult stuff with DR650 fork conversions. Upside down forks. There's a lot of work involved. If you are just an average rider I doubt it's worth the effort. But you may just like the modern look of course. Here are are the potential problem areas with DR650 fork swaps. Do the triple clamps have the same head bearing sizes as the DR650? Which will suit you? Unfortunately I'm not qualified to advise you. Do your research, explore all the options, and decide if you want a major project on your hands. Find 43mm forks that will just slide into the DR650 triple clamps.These DR650 fork conversions work great! You can use your stock DR650 wheel, front axle, wheel spacers and even your speedo drive. However, you will need to create a caliper adapter plate. You will also need stiffer fork springs, the RM125 springs are only 0.356 and the RM250 springs are 0.44. If not, can the DR650 head stem fit the other triple clamps? Is the head stem the same length? Most of us buy a YZ or WR450F fender in the right colour which usually looks better and wobbles around less than the stock one. The bike will sit higher at the front end. Good for inline stability but less likely to turn. You may like it or dislike it. You can slide the forks up in the triple clamps to offset this to some degree. And finally, you need to mess around with spring rates, fork oil and revalving to get the most out of those new forks. Often you will need a spacer. If you like dual sport riding in Australia then you might like our adventure riding vids. On Ebay you can buy brackets that will fit various size fork legs. Search for 'Headlight bracket 37-45mm fork tubes'. Full lock will usually be different and the forks may hit your tank until you somehow build up the steering stops. Front wheel? Two options here. The easiest option is get the front wheel that matches the new forks. It will have a smaller front disc so you'll need to buy a 310 or 320mm motard disc and disc adapter. Expensive, but you'll have slightly better brakes. And of course you lose your speedo. Option two? Create a caliper adapter plate and wheel spacers that will let you adapt the DR650 front wheel. It can take some fancy machining to create wheel spacers that will accept the DR650 front axle. It can be tricky to retain your speedo drive though. You may need to buy an electronic aftermarket speedo. Front fender? You can just drill new holes to use the stock fender. So... still interested in the upside down forks despite so much work needed? Have you done a conversion? How did it go? If you have any good links, let us know and we will post them in the pinned first comment. This is one of our three channels, there's also a Cross Training Trials channel, and a Cross Training Enduro channel. All three are equally dodgy. We are the 27th most watched dirt channel in Uzbekistan. We have won the polished turd award five years in a row. And we have a world record 25 class action lawsuits for inaccurate information. So the Cross Training Adventure focus is just get out there and have fun on two wheels. So check out Cross Training Adventure.
#crosstrainingadventure #adventureriding #adventurebikes #dualsportriding
#dualsportbikes
LINKS & FURTHER TIPS
Great fork research tool!: racetech.com/VehicleSearch
RMZ forks: drriders.com/rmz-forks-with-dr650-wheel-t9304.html
YZ forks: www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1326579-dr650se-yz450f-fork-swap/
Old RM250 forks: drriders.com/viewtopic.php?p=148585#p148585
DRZ400 forks www.advrider.com/f/threads/drz-cartridge-fork-upgrade-on-my-05-dr650.255915/
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GUARANTEED EASIEST USD FORKS? DRZ400SM
Keeps the same travel and doesn't mess with trail and offset. They have the headlight brackets and everything to fit the DR headlight and cowl, stem bearings are the exact same as a DR, poach a DRZ S wheel and bolt a SM rotor on it and you're in business easily. It's just a Showa 47mm TC like what the RMZ's used except with a shortened travel. @jensenmiller6410
LOTS OF TRAVEL? 1999 OR 2000 RM125 OR RM250
TC 49mm USD units. They use the exact same stem bearings as the DR again. If you don't want to have to fiddle with the wheel you can lathe up some bushings and use a DR swingarm axle as a new front axle. Slap a 320mm disc on your DR wheel and grab a 320mm caliper adapter (same bracket as a DRZ-S) to bolt to the fork leg. The 49mm unit is very similar to the modern 49mm forks used on MX (Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda) bikes 2017+ so you are able to poach used stock springs off ebay to get 48N springs that are just about perfect for the DR. Set a couple screws in the steering pads to remove a couple mm of travel and you are good to go. TN indirectly posted a walkthrough on it in his bike rebuild thread on DRRiders, "Noble's Bike Rebuild" in the General Forum. Fork swap started towards the end of page 35.
@jensenmiller6410
RMZ FORKS THE BEST OPTION?
If you want upside down forks, RMZ seem to be a very popular option as they are so common and the standard springs and valves work well!
Albert Falls says the triple clamps fit straight on. But yes, have to ditch the ignition. So no steering lock and have a hidden switch on the bike. Made a spacer for the axel on the lathe and fabricated a caliper bracket. Ditched the speedo and went digital. Also had to weld some bar stoppers on the frame otherwise the forks hit the tank, and would probably damage a lot of stuff on the bike in a crash without bar stops. I had to find a DR400SM headlight bracket. The stock one didn't work obviously. The turn radius is pretty bad but I have a long range tank which probably doesn't help, it's a lot fatter. But it's never been a problem in the bush. I live in Canada, so the forks soak up the rocky terrain nicely without bottoming out
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CORRECTION: Teknik is actually an Australian company, not USA as stated in the vid. No idea if their valves are good or not.
Thank you so much for your dedication to the DR. I've been binge Watching all your content and I am looking at purchasing a DR in the spring time here in the states. Thank you for answering so many questions I've had! You guys are awesome!
Glad it was helpful, Ben! You guys are so lucky to have the XR650L still, given we like to ride dirt as much as possible I'd probably prefer that. But the DR is better on the road and a good 50/50 option.
The Honda is awesome but I bought the DR because my 29 inch inseam is incompatible with the XR650's 37 inch seat height.
Great video, thanks. I fitted valves, correct weight springs and fluid and the difference is night and day.
Good stuff!
The DR wheelies are always the best part! Thanks for the work and time involved to make the super informative videos!
Our pleasure!
Awesome explanation, as always appreciate the DR content! As popular a bike as it is not too many people are in the know about them let alone modifying
It's interesting that they aren't available in so many countries too. Europe barred them ages ago due to emissions. But I think they were never sold in south American countries? Or never in big numbers?
If you want a USD fork swap that keeps the same travel and doesn't mess with trail and offset you can't beat the DRZ-SM units. They have the headlight brackets and everything to fit the DR headlight and cowl, stem bearings are the exact same as a DR, poach a DRZ S wheel and bolt a SM rotor on it and you're in business easily. It's just a Showa 47mm TC like what the RMZ's used except with a shortened travel.
NEWER OLD RM250
If you want to go big or go home then you can fit a pair of Showa TC 49mm USD units from the 1999/2000 RM250/125. They use the exact same stem bearings as the DR again. If you don't want to have to fiddle with the wheel you can lathe up some bushings and use a DR swingarm axle as a new front axle. Slap a 320mm disc on your DR wheel and grab a 320mm caliper adapter (same bracket as a DRZ-S) to bolt to the fork leg. The 49mm unit is very similar to the modern 49mm forks used on MX (Kawasaki, Suzuki, Honda) bikes 2017+ so you are able to poach used stock springs off ebay to get 48N springs that are just about perfect for the DR. Set a couple screws in the steering pads to remove a couple mm of travel and you are good to go.
TN indirectly posted a walkthrough on it in his bike rebuild thread on DRRiders, "Noble's Bike Rebuild" in the General Forum. Fork swap started towards the end of page 35.
Great tips, Jensen! I'll post this in the pinned first comment for others.
I went nuts on a CRF230F dual sport build a couple years ago and did the Emig Racing triple clamps and early 2000's CRF450R forks. Even after having them revalved for my weight and riding style, they were still too firm and stictiony. I figured the guy was an expert fabricator and this swap would be the ticket, but I ended up selling it off and going with an XR400 front end swap. Much better suited to the bike and riding style. One of the biggest challenges when fork swapping these older style models is condition and parts availability should something break. I had to scour E-Bay for a replacement compression adjuster.
Really interesting! After all these years I still haven't ridden a DR650 with USD forks. As per another comment I made, they look pretty cool! And closed chamber forks are meant to be the duck's nuts but on a big old clunker like the DR650 I don't know if you'd notice that much difference? To hear they were worse in your case is very interesting...
@@crosstrainingadventure They would probably have worked better on a bigger bike. You'd still have the issue of having to run the forks up in the triple clamps pretty high potentially causing stiction and/or premature wear.
Finally got to ride a DR with USD forks yesterday. Pretty harsh over the small stuff but great taking the big hits. The new owner is keen to see how he can get the forks to be more 'plush'.
@@crosstrainingadventureincrease air gap in the fork
Honestly just get the Plex valves drop them in and be happy. They're a great upgrade, and probably as far as you need to go on a DR650.
Having fitted DDC valves some years back I can agree that this kind of upgrade together with the correct spring rate and oil weight works very well.
I agree. I've actually just had the rear shock fully done after two years with the stock shock. I'm only really noticing the difference of rough terrain of if pushing the bike hard. But fork valves should be a minimum for almost everyone I think.
@@crosstrainingadventure I still have the stock rear shock, I don't ride overly hard, I ride to suit the rear shock, the forks however were scaring me. 😂 Soonish I will get the rear done though.
Yep, agreed just get out and ride
I upgraded my rear shock to handle the weight of my big fat ... luggage 😎
I got intimators (sp) and had my rear shock rebuilt by Factory Connection for the DR. Its amazing the difference. Its like a brand new bike.
I'd say the DR650 is one of the few bikes where the vast majority of riders will benefit from suspension mods. It's just so bad lol. Unless you are a featherweight cruising around on bitumen and smooth dirt roads....
Those effortless wheelies.. cheers🍻
Great DR video as always!
Glad you enjoyed it! 😎
Swapping out the forks to a full size USD on my 650 is something I've wanted to do since I got it, I'm not even a really heavy rider, but the factory forks are just straight up spindly in every direction. I've kicked around the idea of a twin front rotor setup too, give it that big boy adv bike look and a front brake that bites... Maybe in a few years time when I get a machine shop in the garage... Even with stiffer springs that keep the suspension at the top of its travel most of the time, to me the bike always sort of feels like the front wheel wants to fall through the pavement, or topple forward, the front end just doesn't feel high enough to me.
I got a pair of 2007 CRF450R fork for dr650, still new to try and get a clamp made
I bought RMZ 450 forks and triple clamp, triple clamp fits straight on. But yes, have to ditch the ignition. So no steering lock and have a hidden switch on the bike. Made a spacer for the axel on the lathe and fabricated a caliper bracket. Ditched the speedo and went digital. Was a bit of a project but totally changed the DR for the better. Also had to weld some bar stoppers on the frame otherwise the forks hit the tank, and would probably damage a lot of stuff on the bike in a crash without bar stops.
How did you go with springs and valving? I suspect 450 mx forks would suit some DR riders without mods due to the bike being about 60% heavier?
@@crosstrainingadventure after I bought the forks I took them the a shop where they did a complete rebuild, seals new oil etc, then put them straight on. Didn't change anything, just left them stock. They work just fine. The rear shock is also stock. Didn't change a thing. I also forgot to mention I had to find a DR400SM headlight bracket. The stock one didn't work obviously. The turn radius is pretty bad but I have a long range tank which probably doesn't help, it's a lot fatter. But it's never been a problem in the bush. I live in Canada, so the forks soak up the rocky terrain nicely without bottoming out. You know what I mean, saw you were in Squamish a few years back.
Squamish was great fun, a real shame we only had the one day there. I've done heaps of riding around Kamloops though.
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah Squamish is awesome 😎👍
i've got a RMz 250 2023 and a DR650. I just came back from a one week adv trip with the RMZ front end fitted very quickly on the DR. It's a super quick and easy job to do. It work great, handle well, but for rocks and stones, it would have been better with a dedicated revalve job.
Who need a speedo anyway ?
Great to hear!
I put an aprilia RSV 450 setup on mine. DR. 650 scrambler. It wasn't a plug and play, but it could be done.
Aprilia is such a forbidden fruit. The Bugatti Veyron of dirt bikes.
Cogent dynamic 's ddc + heavier springs + 5w fork oil. It's perfect for me.
Yep, the good old KISS principle. Keep it simple. It's why I like the Plex valves, usually you don't even need to change the springs or oil weight.
Let’s get this straight at the outset, I don’t own, nor have I ever worked on a DR650. However I have done a fork-swap (on a Honda Innova!) twice. Can’t see how it’s any different to a DR650, so here goes.
Always, always get the entire front end of the donor bike, forks, clamps, steering head tube, front wheel, brake and calliper plus all that goes with them. Trying to make another wheel fit is a pain, a lot of extra work and will want much fiddling, sorting and modification that you didn’t ask for. (Do you need to ask me how I know this??)
Measure head-stock bearings for your chosen donor carefully (ID and OD) and see if they match the original bike (DR in this case). If not see if available bearings can be sourced so you can fit the donor headstock straight to your frame. There are common sizes of proper head-stock bearings in many cases, but not all. If not, then you’re into making bearing carriers on a lathe, to fit into your frame, or else fitting a new steerer-tube to your donor headstock.
Shortening the steerer tube is not a big deal (saves using that spacer you showed). Cut out the required amount from the centre of the steerer tube, turn up a 3” (75mm) spigot to fit the centre of the steerer tube, bevel the tube at both cut ends and weld up with the spigot down the centre to keep it straight.
Hope this helps. I’m assuming that ALL Australians have a lathe and welder in their sheds!!
Les in UK 🇬🇧
Good tips, Les. All Aussies used to have a lathe and welder, but they've been replaced by coffee machines lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure oh! For shame!! Les
I had a DRZ400s, also very underdamped in my opinion, but I was considering swapping to those forks. Would for the most part maintain the factory look, but I need to research it more. It is quite laughable that the lighter DRZ comes with 49mm cartridge forks vs the DR'S 43mm rod-type, non adjustable units.
I had a 400S with stiffer .50 springs and revalved forks, and a Race Tech revalve and a seriously firm 6.0 spring out back. The firmed up suspension on that bike was quite good. The conventional forks and flexy frame took the sting out of rocks.
That DR-Z was a good dual sport, it would have been better with a WR 6 speed transmission and another 50cc of displacement.
Bit of a shame the latest DR650SE started in 1996. Whereas the DRZ400 started in 2000. I reckon the DR might have scored the cartridge forks if the upgrade had happened in 2000 or later. 🤔
@@crosstrainingadventure I wonder how much work it is to adapt the 400 forks and shock. They really are quite good once valved and sprung. The modded DR-Z forks reminded my of my '87 CR 250, which had great forks for trail riding. Used to fly table tops at the local MX track on my DR-Z, that always got a few looks.
I sold the DR-Z and got a KTM as the KTM guys didn't want to ride with me and my lowly DR-Z so I would start in the back of the line. Then they would get butthurt when I smoked their asses, can't help myself, used to race a 500 back in the 90s in the CA desert. Better to join than to fight 'em. 😆
From what I hear the DRZ shock is the easiest to adapt. Just a bit of filing or machining to fit the DR650's bracket. Forks are supposedly dead easy too.
@@crosstrainingadventure Sounds like a great way to go. Both are good with spring swap and relatively easy Race Tech tuning.
I fitted WR450 forks to my V-Strom. Lots of work involved but worth it. Being a machinist helps.
It's all on my youtube channel for anyone interested.
A buddy did the yz250 conversion on a 2011 KLR. Took some machining for a Trail Tech dash and triple tree. CBR600 brake master and a giant rotor. He eventually parted the bike out and I ended up with the whole converstion for my 2011. With longer dog bones, and stock shock with a stiffer spring, the bitch likes jumps and trails. Really great difference...BUT...I have a 2009 KLR now and put the guts out of my 2011, with Ricor Intimidator valves and Progressive springs and it is darn comparable to the usd conversion. It has long dog bones and factory rear suspension...so it's not as high as the 2011, and sometimes I think of geting a stiffer spring for it. I have the conversion forks maxed to the fork cap. I like the rake and height even though I'm only 5'8. My buddy never told me how much he had into it but sold it to me for $600. I'm sure he was into it for at least $1000. The big rotor will set ya back at least $300. And the upgraded factory set up was roughly $400.
They ride similar, but the conversion has a bit more tailored feeling, better braking, higher clearance. The upgraded forks severely correct the horrible brake dive. I mean I've flatlined the stock forks in a couple years, 25000km of trails and commuting🤣 I ended up wrecking the CBR master so I put the factory KLR one on and it works fine.
Over all it depends on your budget or curiosity. Factory rear shock is a really good piece of tech, just requires a better spring. USD forks are prone to seal leaks, the factory seals are basically indestructible, unless you remove the fork boots, then the sun will rot them.
Always a lot of fun if you like that sort of tinkering. Almost anything will be a huge improvement on stock KLR or DR forks, hey? 🤔🤣
@@crosstrainingadventure 😄 and more realistic than throwing 10s of thousands at these modern disposable bikes.
I'm not mechanically talented, so I've never tried a serious mod before. However on my old Ninja 1000 (I know it's not an ADV bike), I found out that 190/55 tires were better than the stock 190/50 since it raised the rear slightly and it would tip into corners much easier. It also partially corrected the inaccurate speedometer. However that was a non-ABS model.
Yes, certain bikes respond well to raising the rear. The old Suzuki SV650 for example.
I was just thinking about this after theoretically buying another DR with intent to upgrade suspension with an 18' rear wheel. RaceTech has become another option for the old DR, and they can build you a completely customized fork setup. It's very expensive though, making looking for a compatible swap attractive.
I would really like to know if I even need to go that far if I'm going up a size on the rear.
A lot of guys like the slightly faster steering when they fit an 18 inch rear. One way to reduce it though would just be look for the lowest profile rear tyre. If you are in the USA though and want to lift the front, it could be worth looking at the old RM125/250 forks. Hard to find it Australia but I noticed USA wreckers seem to have quite a few.
I really like oversized tires front and rear for my rocky terrain. 90/100 fatty in the front and 130/90 in the rear. Very limited selection in the rear though.
My nickles worth of opinion on making a longer spacer for the stock 650 springs.
I don't recommend adding preload by compressing the springs more. That can cause you to top out the forks more often.
Alternatively, I would cut the soft portion of the progressive spring out and replace with a spacer equal to the amount cut out. Just ensure that you still have adequate compression space on the spring equal to or greater than the fork travel. Most springs can be trimmed without risking complete compression of the spring (which you never want).
This will effectively increase the stiffness of the spring without increasing preload.
Absolutely agree. I have done this to two different bikes, and it worked great. While you can increase preload to get the correct sag with you sitting on the bike using too soft springs, they are still too soft. Also, the bike will now sit too high unloaded. Get the springs and preload combination that gives you the correct sag for both the bike alone as well as the bike loaded with you and your gear.
Good point but they'd have to be pretty long spacers to top out the forks. And you'd probably need three guys pushing down on the fork caps to get them back on!
@@crosstrainingadventure Actually, you need less force because you need less preload. Personally, I have found that if the spring rate is correct, you want the spacer to sit about level with the fork top, giving you about 10 mm, give or take, of compression before the threads engage. If you need it to sit more than 10 mm above the fork top in order to get the correct sag with you sat on the bike, your spring is likely still too soft. At least in my experience.
🇦🇺😎👍I went to MPE suspension and got the ultimate suspension set up . Gold valves etc. The bike now is a different beast… it sits higher and it is like riding a completely different type of bike… Don’t forget to lightened the bike , change the complete exhaust and bomb the engine…WHAT A RETURN 🏁🇯🇵 🏁🇯🇵🏁🇯🇵🏁🇯🇵🏁🇯🇵
I’m about to do DRZ400 set of forks into wr 450 triple trees.
Can you please respond to my comment here? Watched your channel for many hours. I own a 2021 Dr650 which I purchased in New Zealand one of the last ever to purchase legally. Why is the fuel consumption so bad? I only get about 17-20 kilometers per litre of fuel used. How can I tune a stock Dr650 correctly? Why is the fuel consumption so bad? Thank you.
EFI is a lot more efficient than a carb. Also just an old engine design. 20km/l is my average. 22 if I just sit on 80kmh on the highway. 17 offroad. I was shocked when a riding buddy bought a 690 and was averaging 30 despite being on the throttle a lot more than me (KTM's stock tuning which was very lean).
Are the upside down forks lighter?
Usually, they are a little heavier, because the heavier outer part of the fork leg is much longer. Their main advantage is more rigidity that again lead to more precise steering. Their main disadvantage is that they are more prone to stanchion damage from dirt and gravel with resulting oil leaks. Under extreme braking, they typically have a little more stiction than conventional forks, but this is unlikely to happen during dirt riding or street riding. Overall, the performance of and USD fork is better than that of a conventional fork, but few riders would actually notice. Correct springing and damping are much more important.
Supposedly, the rmx and rm right side up forks of the late 90s are some seriously good off-road forks. Must have been pretty special for the pro mx riders to go back to right side up, after usd was commonplace for over a decade.
I imagine this would probably be the best match for the dr650. Some flex to match the chassis design and Enduro use, more durability, but also come with decently modern valving.
I picked up some 2006 RMX250 forks for AUD200. Local suspension guys adapted them. The strange thing is these are working really well with the stock springs and valving! We figured changes would be needed but they are fine.
@@crosstrainingadventure but are they lighter?
I think the rmz450 fork combo ends up lighter (based on just having done it, and physically handling all the parts). But even if they were the same, the unsprung mass is lower, which means it follows the trail bumps and dips more nicely.
Dont get the USD ... I hear its only gonna be good for A Big Crash coming soon...
They look pretty cool! And closed chamber forks are meant to be the duck's nuts but on a big old clunker I don't know if you'd notice that much difference?
You don't have to drive it like an MX bike to appreciate USD forks. They are a massive benefit for trail riding and help prevent situations from becoming sketchy accidents.
They have clickers, so you don't have to keep opening up your forks to get your tuning right. *Rebound tuning is the biggest gain here.* Not blowing corners is where that benefit matters the most to me, but not getting bucked is nice too.
They also are more responsive/predictable to oil and valving changes vs emulators, and as stated, you have clickers so you can fine tune it vs needing to valve perfect (or give up).
They are typically more rigid.
They have significantly less unsprung mass - which helps a lot for trail responsive grip while remaining supple.
They cost close to the same as emulators and way less than over the shelf modern forks. (approx $400 for a front end conversion if you make sure to buy a set that comes with the triples)
They come with the option of raising the bike (I opted for barely lowered vs stock but with adjustment range that exceeds stock height)
Or don't buy a DR and move on to 2023. Now most new bike have really good suspension 🤷♂
😂 In some cases, sure. But the main competition (at close to double the price) is the KTM 690 or Husky 701. And everyone I know who buys one hates the harsh suspension and has to fork out cash to get it sorted.
@@crosstrainingadventure suspension on 690/701 have been updated since 2021 now. You can find good used ones for far less. We have one life and time is precious for messing around with a DR even less its « suspension «
Some will definitely see it that way. But I know quite a few who spent a lot to get the Kato then regretted needing to spend even more getting it right. Each to their own.
@@mototrailz The KTM's are good bikes. But at least where I am (PNW), *i have never seen an **_ok_** condition 690/701 for less than double a **_good_** condition used DR.* And then there's the maintenance. The DR is a workhorse, change the oil and it's happy bike. The KTM's are performance machines with decent for performance maintenance.
Throwing $400 at the front end and another couple at the rear still leaves you with enough to buy your kid or friend a crf or something to ride with you, even before maintenance costs kick in. If you like crafting and improving things, there's a lot of satisfaction to be had with lower end bikes.
If you've got a $60k truck and $100 luxury travel trailer, by all means, buy the more expensive bike and hire someone to do the maintenance so you can spend your time on vacation things instead. Thanks what my cousin does, and good for them.
Personally I enjoy spending my one life and precious time doing a little bit of evening fireside maintenance on a cheap old tractor to spend the next day enjoying cruising around on it like a plonker. I can't justify working the extra hours to afford the loan I'd need to take to be able to pay for the exotics.
Interesting video as always. Are those aftermarket mirrors in front of the bark busters or just reflectors? Either way, i'm commenting sober! Yay! :D
Double Take mirrors. Unbreakable... so far. We have a review on this channel. Most riders I know use them.
@@crosstrainingadventure Never heard of them but i'll look it up on your channel. thnx m8.
I prefer to put like rodent looking furry squeak toys in my forks. The squeaks make me feel sorry for them and remind me to ride more carefully.
Where might we purchase this fauna? I'm interested! 🤔😗
@@crosstrainingadventure Just go to your local petshop. Fun Fact, the famouse Pet-shop boys had a habit of letting real living rodents enter their orifices. sadly, the rodents would die from the deepest depths on their brown eye. They would continue to return only to insist that they owned pet snakes, etc... eventually the owner of the shop said, Ah yes "here are the petshop boys again" - the rest is history. I am no degenerate and therefore I humbly request you use the squeak toys and no actual living creatures like the iconic pop-band would use.
You say in the US use Teknik valves
But they're an Australian company...
So they are. I'd never heard of them but just wanted to present some options. Thanks for that, I'll make a note in the pinned first comment.
For the US, racetech is the more available option.
For AU, I'd go with teknik.
Teknik changed my DR from a wallowing, bottoming mess on easy firetrails to very competent for all my riding. They redid my forks and exchanged my shock for one they'd worked their magic on. All for my kitted up weight.
Far and away the best, most transformative upgrade I've ever done to a bike. I did ride in ride out, but you can diy with their bits and advice to reduce costs.