Our complete DR650 project series here! bit.ly/3gQEStP HOW FAR DO YOU WANT TO GO? This video assumes you are fully derestricting the DR650 and using an aftermarket exhaust. Level 1: This is around two hours work and assumes you keep the stock exhaust. It costs nothing if you modify your own needle. - Modify the existing needle (or aftermarket) - Remove the rubber snorkel from the airbox - Reset the fuel/air mixture screw . Level 2: Around three hours work, you'll need an aftermarket jetting kit unless you modify your needle yourself and drill out the main jet. - Modify the existing needle (or aftermarket) - Remove snorkel and cut a second hole in the airbox - Replace the stock 140 main jet with a 150 main jet - Reset the fuel/air mixture screw. Level 3: five hours work, a great alternative to the expense of a pumper carb. It assumes you fit an aftermarket exhaust. - Modify the existing needle - Remove snorkel and cut a second hole in the airbox - Replace the stock 140 main jet with a 150 main jet - Reset the fuel/air mixture screw - Remove header pipe and grind back the inside weld - Shorten the carb slide spring - Drill a second hole in the carb slide. TUNING WITH MIXTURE SCREW When adjusting the mixture screw, don't go past two turns. If you need to in order to get the bike running well, you should go up to a 45 pilot jet. Fine tuning the needle? If you are really trying to get the best results, you can use very a very thin washer with the needle positioning to get half clip adjustments - if you are into fine tuning! Most of us won't worry about this. SURGING? You may find the bike surges. Often this occurs if you just take off the air filter 'door' instead of cutting a hole as specified in the vid. It might also occur if you cut too large a hole. COMPLETE LIST OF DR650 PROJECT VIDS Introduction to the DR650 ua-cam.com/video/58vB-5urcJI/v-deo.html Power mods overview ua-cam.com/video/z7GcNdlDwdk/v-deo.html Transforming the carburetor ua-cam.com/video/aN1aU0G4YQE/v-deo.html GSXR exhaust mod ua-cam.com/video/Em6SzMTF5SY/v-deo.html DR650 known issues ua-cam.com/video/rSNBa63UWx8/v-deo.html Basic suspension mods ua-cam.com/video/aTYAwIBX9aQ/v-deo.html Protection for the DR ua-cam.com/video/NQcXfOJsLSM/v-deo.html Ergos: pegs, bars & seats ua-cam.com/video/geLR5u8sMhI/v-deo.html Weight reduction ua-cam.com/video/h6fl-GWdURk/v-deo.html Best suspension mods ua-cam.com/video/sGdLm9sXzdo/v-deo.html Fixing noisy starter motors ua-cam.com/video/6P4n80FJP18/v-deo.html Headlight upgrades ua-cam.com/video/G28GoyWp6LI/v-deo.html Steg Pegz review ua-cam.com/video/SnI_pfkuQsg/v-deo.html
Excellent information thanks! Do you know if this carburettor and modifications would be valid for a KTM 640 adventure? CARBURADOR MIKUNI BST40-266 03 58431001600
I've been fighting the carb on my 95 DR650 the whole time I've owned it (over 6 years) it came with a modified exhaust and the snorkel removed. I added a better filter and Dyno-Jet kit to try to tune the thing ...something was always wrong :-( I tried dozens of combinations of jet sizes and clip positions, I'm not exaggerating. it was never quite right. After watching this video I figured ...Why not? I dug out the stock needle, chocked it up in my Dremel and tapered it with some Emery cloth 'til it ...um, looked good? installed the modded needle with a small shim and installed a .150 jet. clipped 3/8 inch off the spring (What the hell is a millimeter?) I took the bike for a rip just now. it runs better than it ever has. I am flabbergasted! The goofy Aussie was right! This is EXACTLY what my bike needed. Thank you for posting this.
Great to hear, and a big shout out to Gordon who supplied all the info and has spent countless hours over the past decade helping guys set up their DRs.
On my 2002 dr650- the dynojet kit alone with 150 jet, changing needle & shims, and adjusting fuel air...it was a snappy, totally different machine. Added Leo Vince exhaust, grinded header weld, and removed snorkel/cut 2 holes in box. The difference between stock is mindblowing....
@@johnkopek7979thanks alot i really appreciate it! Another question did you grind the spacer down like he did tooo? Looks like he put the spacer under the clip, I've read where people put it above the clip
I installed a jet kit in my DR 650. I drilled two larger holes in the plastic slide and enlarged the airbox top hole with a sharp Stanley knife really easily. I didn't cut the spring or need to adjust the mixture. I also installed a FMF powercore4 exhaust. The bike starts instantly, idles fine and is smooth throughout the rev range. Good gains all gears, no back firing. Rapt as.
I was reasonably happy with the dr performance but it really struggled to get the front wheel up without a decent clutch drop and pull up . I done everything In the vid except I purchased the pro cycle mid pipe . Started so much easier . Test ride was flawless . I actually think I got 10.2% more power 😂, it really goes so good , quick blip of the throttle and the front is up . Really is a great mod for a modest gain . Was easier than I expected thanks for the top vid 🙏🏻
im in the U.S. and I know they say put the clip in the 4th slot from the top but I'm just curious as what too do with the spacer, that's why I haven't done it yet smh need too get it done tomorrow
Thanx heaps buddy. Did all that (with minor differances) used my bat drill against the grinder and then 1200 wet n dry to shape the needle and used a 1.5mm drill to open the 140 main to 150. Feels and sounds like a totaly different bike. Couldnt recomend this any better 👊🤘
I have just done the mods on the carb airbox exhaust etc. I am now even more of a proud owner, of the dr650. Also I am now feeling like a motorbike mechanic. Life changer thank you very much all who have made these videos. Namaste
The guy before me already upsized the jet although im not sure what make the jet is (155), cut the airbox open 80mm extra and a flowing exhaust with m/pipe. Also didn't have to stuff around with fuel/air adjuster. Am going to test the fuel/mileage and may go down a jetsize wanting around 22kms per litre! wish luck.
+eveRide ADV thanks tyler, but looking at your ride vids i reckon you must be happy you chose the DRZ back then? you can always jump on the yamaha now if you need more excitement! :D
Just a little tip. At the carb is a small switch, good to see at 7:25, which reduces the power in first three gears. Just pull the plug out and the problem is away. Just try it, it's not a big diffrence, but i doesn't costs anything. I have done it on our DR 350, and you can feel it a little bit. Greetings from Germany. Love your vids. Since I'm watching your Videos on your Endurocross channel, I improved riding very much! Thank you Barry ;)
I just did the airbox and slide/needle mods. The bike already had a staintune pipe and a 155 main jet. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! so much more grunt especially down low, it feels like it is 200cc bigger!
I don't have a DR but I tried some of these things on my 125 Honda delivery bike and with a little trouble shooting I was able to get a decent power increase. Better response they l throughout the rev range, but especially in the lower revs. Thanks for the inspiration!
Did this a few months ago - very noticeable improvement just with a 'Busa can and sorting that header weld out. Got 2 Busa cans taken off a new bike for $200, made 2 adapters and sold the spare system for more than the cost of the whole job. If you run a neat 3-4mm TIG weld round the header pipe collar you can make that internal weld flush with no issues. (6 months and 10,000k so far) For an adapter pipe - a standard 1 1/2, 45 degree bend, short length of pipe then a 90 deg bend cut in half to make the joggle worked for me (with a bit of grinding). I have a drawing of the Busa flange if anyone is interested - printing it out 1:1 and sticking it to the plate is easier than marking - don't use contact adhesive it will shrink the drawing.
Bought a '09 DR and tricked up the carb. and A?F box as per the video and put on a Delcovic stainless and carbon fibre exhaust....... magic, starts easily hot or cold, and goes like a jet....Thanks!
Excellent! You should be paid by Suzuki for your magnificent instruction video. (Yeah right, like that will happen) One thing I don't think you mentioned is that in the US we don't get the clip adjustable needle like other countries do. And our idle jet screw has a soft brass cover installed to keep us from having a good running engine. That is easily removed fortunately, and a very handy extended idle jet screw is available for easy, no screw driver needed adjustment. This vid is an excellent instruction on how easy the DR is to wake up from sleepy Zombie state to extreme enduro ready power.
Honestly I messed around with these sort of tricks for years, and realize it's like trying to cut a foot off the bottom of a ladder, and taping it to the top to make it longer. You get a little more top end power, and myself always wound up with some dead or flat spot in the middle to low end somewhere. I went through a dozen combinations of jets, pull the carb 50 times, did runs and checked the plugs. In the end I just put a Lectron carb on. So people who want to open the airbox, and put a free flowing exhaust on that's my recommendation. Just save up for a Lectron or a pumper carb. The Lectron gets generally better miles per gallon, the pumper carb has the opposite effect. Dunno why but it does. However a Lectron carb is around $800, and a pumper carb can range from $400 - 650.
i did all the mods recommended in this video and it turned out as they said it would , idles much better now and much more power on take off , the bike is much easier to handle at low speeds because of the extra torque the front wheel does come off the ground easily now witch is great in mountain riding condition
@@marcelcanuck Yeah my buddy did this to his, but he had flat spots too. Racers did this years ago because for example they might only care about how it runs at full throttle, or for a enduro hill climber might only care about low end torque. In generally stripping emissions stuff will get you a little boost. But none of it is like adding a pumper carb or a lectron carb performance wise. You're talking about a few extra foot pounds of torque, and better throttle response. Which is good but a pumper carb will make it a difference animal entirely.
@@slimjim7411 i might of gotten lucky on the jetting , i ordered a 150 main and a 45 pilot , i never got a flat spot on my bike but i see allot of UA-camrs with that issue , i wasn't to impressed with the bike at first , it ran sluggish and stalled out at stop signs was just about to sell it when i spotted this video , now it's a keaper , might try to find a pumper and see what more i can get out of it , now that you've tickled my curiosity must be some on Ebay , be safe 👍
@@marcelcanuck Good luck I think pumpers are a little less expensive but you'll lose some MPG with the Lectron it's more like fuel injection it's just better everything but pumpers run around $400+ and Lectrons run around $600+ last time I checked at least for a 650 thumper.
Shimmed the needle with a number 4 washer. Cut the spring. Cut 2 holes in the slide. Didnt cut the airbox though since i didnt want to rejet it. Runs good. The bike ran super lean before , now much better. The airbox cut may throw off the jetting which I did not change, and works good with stock jets.
I've just done all these mods to my Dr650, and I must say, I'm pretty stoked with the performance gains. Next step will be replacing the stock van with a #35 Gsxr exhaust as soon as I can find a mid pipe locally. Thanks Adventure Oz for the very informative series you have put together.
just by adding a better fuel filter and carb breather filter, also re-positioning it away from the carb box intake. I saw a boost in how the bike runs. no more surge with a steady throttle either. thanks for the tips fellas, love the vids. Oregon usa rider here, I'd take bug sounds over endless rain any day of the week haha
Hey man!, I've been following your dr650 vids for a while and now i've bought a dr650 96' for myself finally! I rode about 3.000km and now i'm doing all this mods by myself (I have no mechanical skills at all but the best experience comes with dirty hands haha) I've managed to remove everything and now im going to tighten the carb needle! Thanks alot for the videos man, great inspiration! Cheers from Portugal!
No-one ever talks about J I S screws . It should be taught first thing to kids Dirtbikes 101. How many times over the yrs have we all bought a second hand dirt bike only to find all the screws buggered. Spread the word people. Thats a good lesson in itself to do a youtube vid.
Thanks for sharing your expertise, I just want to add that when I taper my needle I plan to take a black marker to the areas of the needle I'm grinding off so it comes out even. I'll just keep applying more marker till I have the right shape.
First thing I notice after the carb mods once the engine was hot when I pull the choke on the motor stalled,like it should,so has before it just ran better on the choke. The acceleration has jump to Wow,just right,it Wellies now so easy so has before I din’t even bother trying.its no a speed demon but it’s sure a nice power band,torque a low revs is so nice when you play up hill on a wonky terrain now.
i did everything thats listed in level three ( 0:15 ). with the extra drilled whole in the air box it loses a lot of power down low to the middle rev range and gains only a really slight amount of power in the far upper rev range. thats why i taped it off. also i got a different muffler (GPR Furore) which is unrideable in the lower rev range when the db eater is in. it stalls if you ease the clutch out. without the eater it has a lot of power and doesnt stall when easing out the clutch but its obnoxiously loud (comparable with a ktm 690 with leo vince x3 without db eater). also i never had the front wheel come up so easily. first time i got it up easily was last week when i changed the gearing from 15-41 to 15-45 and installed a high performance header pipe. still needs the upper rev range for me to clutch it up. im a noob when it comes to wheelies and probably dont have the right timing but it should be way easier on such a big thumper i think. i mean maybe she lost some power over the years and thats the reason.... shes 19 years old and has 70.000km on the clock
As always great info....after I tweaked my fully modified stock carb to my altitude and other components it ran well.then I installed a new tm 40 with a baseline jet set I determined all that tinkering to be a total waste of time....the usable power increase through the total rev range was evident immediately. Besides the Cogent Dynamics mohave pro and emulators with ohlins springs up front.....the tm40 was money best spent.
Interesting to hear... some say the TM40 is better, others say marginal improvement but not worth the money. I've always had my stock carbs modified by the guy who came up with the 'BST magic mods' and he always nails it. I'm in the former category as I've also owned a DR with a TM fitted and couldn't see much difference at all. It would be very interesting to have both bikes perfectly tuned and put them on a dyno!
If anyone in OZ is interested in a GSXR pipe or FCR39MX pumper carb, I have both that came off my DR. The carb has been fully stripped, rebuilt and jetted appropriately for Australian conditions. Includes intake adapter and new clamps to make it fit Prior to selling the bike I refit the stock components, in all honesty I prefer the bike with just a jet kit and whats shown above. In fully stock trim it is a bit of a joke, but with an opened up airbox it sounds much meatier, and the carby mods can get you pretty good throttle response, at least 90% of the way to a pumper carb. However what I found is you need to either go for throttle response via overly rich jetting (overcompensates for a lean shift when cracking throttle open, so its actually the right mix straight away) or you jet for economy and suffer some throttle response. A pumper will get you both. But overall I enjoyed it with slightly reduced response because its a gentle giant. As soon as you start chasing those performance enhancements or big improvements it gets expensive and you're never really satisfied. It's always just going to be a DR
Aidan Gillett Hi, I tried sending another message, (youtube messaging system has been known to fail in my experience) Failing that I could do it through facebook or something. Anyway see if its gone through first :P Cheers
I just stumbled on to your channel while searching DR650 for a possible ADV bike. I'm getting too long in the tooth to be trying to manhandle a 200kg plus bike in tricky going, let alone trying to pick it up on my own without blowing a valve! I have subscribed
Glad it worked well, the old bush pig definitely wakes up with these mods. A lot of guys spend big on pumper carbs but in my experienced you'll get similar power increases with these cheap mods.
OUR VIDEO PLAYLISTS Safety & protective gear vids bit.ly/3BmKeGE Our dual sport & adv ride vids bit.ly/3HTdvvl Bike & product reviews bit.ly/3BrnVjq The more bizzare side! bit.ly/34ZschR The more philosophical side bit.ly/3v9nKYX Riding across Vietnam bit.ly/3pej9Rt DR650 project vids bit.ly/3gQEStP Check out our other channels too... Cross Training Enduro bit.ly/3Jncax4 Cross Training Trials bit.ly/3uUjwEm
To get a buggered phillips screw out EASILY ? Simply clamp vise grips on it's head! Easy peasy! ...does not always work if screw is in a recess etc ...but on this carb! I think it will work
Nicely done! We like cheap and it's a great way to get to know your bike in case you need to perform car on the side of the road! 😱Great video as always we're loving this series keep them coming 😀
I'm having a bit of trouble with modifying / upgrading the carb on my DR. 1 My carb is from a 2003 DR. I purchased a noname BST40 rebuild kit on line. I received a new emulsion tube in the kit and it differs from the original. At Motolab I read their article on worn id of the emulsion tube which probably accounts for the heavy carbon deposits in the combustion cylinder. I read also the pilot jet was supposed to be 45.0 Mine revealed a 42,5. I installed the 47.5 I purchased from you. so far so good. (Motolab owner says there is no reason to replace the stock pilot jet.) I began putting the new parts into the carburetor and discovered the new emulsion tube from the rebuild kit is different from the original that I removed from the carburetor. I have 3 needles and none of them fit the ID of the needle jet. Yet all of the needles will fit the original emulsion tube. I have also read there are a couple of pre manufactured needles depending on the performance required. (ie: the DJ needle you mention above.) So what's going on here? Am I just a victim of parts made from Chinesium or am I missing something here? I've used most of my measuring equipment here. I don't need to measure the ID of the Emulsion tube. I understand the taper is considerably different from the needles I have, as well as the original Jet. Further to the original.. I have just now read notes on measuring the wear of an emulsion tube, and decided to insert each of the needles I have and measure the distance from the top of the Emulsion tube to the top of the needle when the needle is inserted till it stops. The original needle that came from the carburetor was protruding .910". The needle which was supplied in the rebuild kit protruded .888". the needle I purchased from Motolab (part number 13383-32E00 protruded .625. This indicates to me each of the needles tapers differently. I'm pretty confused at this point. I can be reached at Bunkmuffin@gmail.com.
I put a Q4 exhaust on my dr650 with a k&n filter and stage 2 carb mod. Definitely had to do the airbox mod I couldn't get it tuned until it was done. Also the Q4 is quite loud and produces humorous snapping and popping when you let off. Other than being almost annoyingly loud it is a much better machine after that.
Great (video) work .. I wish I could drop my 2013 DR650SM/790 big bore off to you for some all around (tuning) dialing in. I have fcr pumper carb , 190 cam, 790 big bore, over sized valves and head , 5 angle race port , air box mod , k&n air filter. Power bomb header Q4 silencer. Mohave rear shock and front DRZ 400sm usd fork
It was an awesome bike at the end of it! A real shame I couldn't afford to keep it. But I now have the pleasure of starting it all again with my new DR650...
i just finished doing these mods on my DR , without changing the muffler or grinding the header , i'm one happy lazy Canadian mate ! big difference in acceleration and much better idling ,i had to drill out the cap on the pilot jet screw on mine , (i apologize to all u climate change nuts ) , can't wait to take my pig (lol) out for ride , will have to wait until spring tho. as we have 2 feet of snow out here , Thanks Mate , i don't care what the world says about u Australians i think u guys are awesome , lol
@@crosstrainingadventure hahaha i knew there was a little bit of french in u guys , only a french man would use an exaust pipe as a mouse calling device , lol , be safe brothers !
My DR is bone stock engine/carb/exhaust. I enjoy the challenge of smoking everybody I ride with with it stock. Honestly it runs fine stock. Handling is what needs work on the DR much more then hop up bits. Its always miles ahead on any sort of dirt road.
agreed brad. i rode mine completely stock for a while and third gear wheelies were still a breeze.... but that suspension and those tyres were pretty scary when pushing hard on the dirt tracks lol.
After study, DR650 is only lean on the needle. stock pilot jet and main jet are fine. So raise the needle is the only mandatory case to run OK (or silght shim). Rejet is not good for mpg but bike run cooler I admit.
I have a DR as an '' Aventure'' bike best mods Crash protection Better seat 25L tank simple luggage rack heavier fork oil the Bike is simpler and lighter with less to break and easier/cheaper to fix!
Slagging Canadians at 8:48!! lol. I'm a Canadian and still love your videos! What a great mod. I'll be adding some 'J-Cloths' to my filter routine. Cheers!!
Thanks for the step by step clear instructions. I'll be able to make my bike run better without all the confusion of conflicting forum posts, and I feel much more confident modding my needle after seeing it and your assurances that it doesn't have to be perfect. Your channel is one of my favorites, whether I want to learn better technique or just enjoy something entertaining.
Thanks Andrew, it's very rare for anyone to have issues. And of course you can always take it back to stock (although you'd need to cover any airbox holes somehow). I don't know anyone who has done that though!
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks. The airbox mod isn't intimidating to me - and it would be easy to patch with an antifreeze jug and rtv, if someone really screwed it up.
thanks lisa! unfortunately it's a crazy amount of work doing this and only possible when you actually own the bike concerned. we have just done a recent vid that looks briefly at known issues with the XR650L though...
+Matt Lawson must admit i'm more in favour of budget mods matt... our carby mods cost $10 for a main jet andan hours work and i reckon the results are very similar to my old DR which had a TM fitted. the TM is still a bit quicker on the throttle response but i wouldn't want to pay US$520 just for that. the plug n play nature of it is good though for those who don't do-it-yourself projects.
+ADVENTURE OZ I tried the drilled slide, new jets and adjusted needle. I might have completely botched it up because I had a weird jump as soon as I laid into the throttle. I would give it gas, it would accel for a second, then bog out briefly and then continue to accel. I soon after bought the TM40 and that seemed to fix all the problems with the carb. Since then, I have had zero problems with it. Great video by the way!!
+Matt Lawson i'm not carby expert but if you still had the stock needle that would create issues... i think the standard carby either needs the stock needle tapered as per this vid, or an aftermarket needle, to really work properly. a well setup TM40 may outperform gordon's stock carby mods by quite a bit but he's had trouble finding anyone with a well setup pumper carby on their DR to do a direct comparison.
+Matt Lawson I've had both and a well setup standard carb is just as good with a fraction of the cost. Admitted I got the Dynojet kit which saves time with the needle. The TM had a heavier pull than the standard carb.
I've never seen anyone take a needle to a bench grinder. If I was going to do that I'd chuck the needle into a drill. I have used a drill and sand paper to get a "better" taper. That way you get a more even finish and you can measure the needle and get repeatable results.
+ADVENTURE OZ Just a quick question mate: My bike is a US import. Had 100Ks on the clock. Now has around 4000. It smokes a few seconds after start-up from cold. It's done that since new to me. Lasts a few seconds before it goes away (engine heating up). Valve seals or rings? Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
+ADVENTURE OZ No probs. I think the bike stood for about two years and the seals hardened. I'm going to pull the head and check the stems. I'll mod the carb spring as you guys did. Have a stage two needle in alread and cut the box. I like that acerbis tank. Might put one on while I'm at it! Our currency is so week at the moment though :(
Buy DR650. Replace - seat, fuel tank, carburetor, exhaust, front and rear shocks, front and rear tyres, headlight, speedometer, handlebars, air filter, mirrors, bearings, footpegs and magneto. Oh yeah we forgot to tighten a few screws that might mangle your engine aaaaaaand 3rd gear might fail. $9000 AUD new usually gets you twin cylinders, water cooling, ABS, fuel injection, colour dash with fuel gauge + tach, slipper clutch, LED lights, 6 speed gearbox and a windscreen. Not here buddy. "DR650 best bike ever" Haha. Yep. I still want one.
I just did Carb modes. I saw this video yesterday, today was drilling, cutting and grinding :) By the way my first bike and my first time touching Carb, my mechanical skills on are maybe level 2 of 10. Bike feel completely different, I am so happy wit this mode. Next is exhaust modes, but bolts on header are so rusty and stuck I don't know how to unscrew them, I am scared to don't brake bolts, or maybe worst magnesium case.
I dont wanna polish your balls but I have to Say that so far I'm completely hooked! (pun intended!) can't wait to see how your porka turns out.... Subbed and Much love from Yorkshire
cheers neal, the whole DR650 series was finished ages ago on this channel. we also did a video or two about the finished DR on our enduro channel: ua-cam.com/video/RA0R37FnLeM/v-deo.html
wtf is with all the Canuck hate m8s haha. Great, informative video. I went the FCR39mx route, and absolutely no regrets. That carby chirping tho. You just don't get that with the stocker :D.
you guys say the fuel economy improves after these mods? what are you getting on the pavement mpg or kpl? i'm sticking with a stock setup 2008 dr650 getting 50 mpg. i modded my 2007 drz400 so much i went from 55mpg down to 30mpg but it's actually faster to 60mph than my dr650. i really don't want to decrease the MPG so i have been hearing just upgrading the exhaust will improve power but not hurt mpg on the dr650...is that true?
Yep an unmodified DR650 will certainly suit a lot of riders as is. I kept my latest one untouched for a few months for warranty reasons but also to see how capable it was completely stock. But a few basic engine and suspension mods definitely transform the bike for riders wanting to push the bushpig a bit harder.
I just checked my DRs secondary air filter and realized that half of the thing is just missing😳😳 Well good think that I already ordered a replacement and havent been riding in too bad conditions..
I try to avoid dust as much as possible. You just never know if your air filter isn't quite in place or dust is working its way in to electrical connections etc. So whenever it's dusty I just distance myself enough from the rider in front. I'm always surprised at riders who happily sit behind other riders in clouds of dust and they (and their bikes) are just brown with dust at the end of the day. 🤔
Ok, I am confused, on the needle shown in this video, of which is awesome, it shows the clip over the spacer. but on my ProCycle Jet Kit, it shows and is worded that the spacer sits on the clip, have the got it wrong or does it work both ways as the spring holds it down anyway?
Hey what year and what milage was on this bike? Did you notice any whining in 3rd gear? I just picked up an 07 and I have 3rd gear whining. Suzuki supposedly corrected the issues with the gears after 06.. I am finding after coming across many posts that they obviously did not correct the issue. I have 11k miles and it runs great but there is the 3rd gear while..How concerned should I be? Also.. What ear GSXR pipes will work? I plan on doing these mods to the bike but I hope that the 3rd gear is gonna hold out...
hey again! should we change the main jet size to 115 or 150? sorry, just asking to make sure, i've already bought the 115 and i was about to install it... i hope i've heard it correctly! thanks a lot
For everyone wondering, its the 150mm. I've installed it and its perfect. Actually, I've just arrived from a 4.000km trip with my girlfriend and the dr650 handled us both perfectly. My next mod will be changing the exhaust for the gsxr + the midpipe . When i bought my bike, it came with a marving exhaust but its too loud for me. thanks alot for the help ADV OZ. I've done myself all the mods that you suggested and the bike improved ALOT. /cheers
Really an excellent video...and very well presented ....However..do you have any videos on the Kawasaki klr650..in the similar vein... Reason..l am thinking of buying one 1990-2003. But also did look at the DR650.. Was after the larger tank..as have distance to travel..
Thanks for the videos and the great, informative info. Would drilling the extra hole in the slide and tapering the needle without changing the main jet help or hurt performance?
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks! I have changed exhaust and was moving on to the next step. I was thinking of doing the needle taper and slide without main jet upgrade, but looks like the jet will have to be at the same time. Thanks again for your videos!
I'm in the US and I really like your video. Many great points. I used a 1/4 drive with a #2 phillips to break loose the float bowl screws (I know it's JIS) ;) That took nothing compared to all my might just prior. Also replaced with hex bolts. I'm mainly commenting because I'd like to know how the bike ran after your needle taper and shelf shave. From what I understand, the tip is more "open throttle" and the middle flat taper is more low throttle/less fuel. You've also dropped the needle substantially with the shelf shave.. so less fuel, but thinner taper. but I'm guessing the snorkelectomy and new hole helps with the rich taper. Complex relationship there... Thoughts? Mainly, how's it run?
![Turning the DR650 into a Monster! - [ PROCYCLE FUEL AND AIR ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BgH7LYI1iIU/mqdefault.jpg)
Our complete DR650 project series here! bit.ly/3gQEStP
HOW FAR DO YOU WANT TO GO? This video assumes you are fully derestricting the DR650 and using an aftermarket exhaust.
Level 1: This is around two hours work and assumes you keep the stock exhaust. It costs nothing if you modify your own needle.
- Modify the existing needle (or aftermarket)
- Remove the rubber snorkel from the airbox
- Reset the fuel/air mixture screw
.
Level 2: Around three hours work, you'll need an aftermarket jetting kit unless you modify your needle yourself and drill out the main jet.
- Modify the existing needle (or aftermarket)
- Remove snorkel and cut a second hole in the airbox
- Replace the stock 140 main jet with a 150 main jet
- Reset the fuel/air mixture screw.
Level 3: five hours work, a great alternative to the expense of a pumper carb. It assumes you fit an aftermarket exhaust.
- Modify the existing needle
- Remove snorkel and cut a second hole in the airbox
- Replace the stock 140 main jet with a 150 main jet
- Reset the fuel/air mixture screw
- Remove header pipe and grind back the inside weld
- Shorten the carb slide spring
- Drill a second hole in the carb slide.
TUNING WITH MIXTURE SCREW
When adjusting the mixture screw, don't go past two turns. If you need to in order to get the bike running well, you should go up to a 45 pilot jet.
Fine tuning the needle? If you are really trying to get the best results, you can use very a very thin washer with the needle positioning to get half clip adjustments - if you are into fine tuning! Most of us won't worry about this.
SURGING?
You may find the bike surges. Often this occurs if you just take off the air filter 'door' instead of cutting a hole as specified in the vid. It might also occur if you cut too large a hole.
COMPLETE LIST OF DR650 PROJECT VIDS
Introduction to the DR650 ua-cam.com/video/58vB-5urcJI/v-deo.html
Power mods overview ua-cam.com/video/z7GcNdlDwdk/v-deo.html
Transforming the carburetor ua-cam.com/video/aN1aU0G4YQE/v-deo.html
GSXR exhaust mod ua-cam.com/video/Em6SzMTF5SY/v-deo.html
DR650 known issues ua-cam.com/video/rSNBa63UWx8/v-deo.html
Basic suspension mods ua-cam.com/video/aTYAwIBX9aQ/v-deo.html
Protection for the DR ua-cam.com/video/NQcXfOJsLSM/v-deo.html
Ergos: pegs, bars & seats ua-cam.com/video/geLR5u8sMhI/v-deo.html
Weight reduction ua-cam.com/video/h6fl-GWdURk/v-deo.html
Best suspension mods ua-cam.com/video/sGdLm9sXzdo/v-deo.html
Fixing noisy starter motors ua-cam.com/video/6P4n80FJP18/v-deo.html
Headlight upgrades ua-cam.com/video/G28GoyWp6LI/v-deo.html
Steg Pegz review ua-cam.com/video/SnI_pfkuQsg/v-deo.html
Excellent video and information! Counting the days and nights until I buy my next DR650se Bushy Piggy
Excellent information thanks! Do you know if this carburettor and modifications would be valid for a KTM 640 adventure? CARBURADOR MIKUNI BST40-266 03
58431001600
I've been fighting the carb on my 95 DR650 the whole time I've owned it (over 6 years) it came with a modified exhaust and the snorkel removed.
I added a better filter and Dyno-Jet kit to try to tune the thing ...something was always wrong :-(
I tried dozens of combinations of jet sizes and clip positions, I'm not exaggerating. it was never quite right.
After watching this video I figured ...Why not?
I dug out the stock needle, chocked it up in my Dremel and tapered it with some Emery cloth 'til it ...um, looked good?
installed the modded needle with a small shim and installed a .150 jet.
clipped 3/8 inch off the spring (What the hell is a millimeter?)
I took the bike for a rip just now. it runs better than it ever has. I am flabbergasted! The goofy Aussie was right!
This is EXACTLY what my bike needed.
Thank you for posting this.
Great to hear, and a big shout out to Gordon who supplied all the info and has spent countless hours over the past decade helping guys set up their DRs.
On my 2002 dr650- the dynojet kit alone with 150 jet, changing needle & shims, and adjusting fuel air...it was a snappy, totally different machine. Added Leo Vince exhaust, grinded header weld, and removed snorkel/cut 2 holes in box. The difference between stock is mindblowing....
How much of a difference in mpg?
@@dr6507 not sure of exact numbers but, like 30 less miles out of a tank
It used to run out and have to flip reserve at like 125 miles. After the mods it runs out around 100 miles. Depending on riding conditions of course
@@johnkopek7979thanks alot i really appreciate it! Another question did you grind the spacer down like he did tooo? Looks like he put the spacer under the clip, I've read where people put it above the clip
Looks like it makes more sense too put it under the clip .
"make sure your rubbers dont fall off" sage advice indeed.
It is sage advice, I lost one yesterday!
I installed a jet kit in my DR 650. I drilled two larger holes in the plastic slide and enlarged the airbox top hole with a sharp Stanley knife really easily. I didn't cut the spring or need to adjust the mixture. I also installed a FMF powercore4 exhaust. The bike starts instantly, idles fine and is smooth throughout the rev range. Good gains all gears, no back firing. Rapt as.
What main jet did you use?
@@goodfellamoto5787 Dynojet stage 1 & 2
@@goodfellamoto5787 Dynojet stage 1 & 2
You guys ROCK! For next to no money and just a little of my time, the bike has been transformed. Thank you very much.
I was reasonably happy with the dr performance but it really struggled to get the front wheel up without a decent clutch drop and pull up . I done everything In the vid except I purchased the pro cycle mid pipe .
Started so much easier . Test ride was flawless . I actually think I got 10.2% more power 😂, it really goes so good , quick blip of the throttle and the front is up . Really is a great mod for a modest gain . Was easier than I expected thanks for the top vid 🙏🏻
Did you do the key needle just like he did with the spacer under the clip and did you grind down the spacer so it drops down past the shelf?
im in the U.S. and I know they say put the clip in the 4th slot from the top but I'm just curious as what too do with the spacer, that's why I haven't done it yet smh need too get it done tomorrow
Put the needle in the chuck of a cordless drill set on high speed and use emery cloth held with your fingers. :)
+Jimo368 That's a much better idea. You could see his needle ended up wonky at the end lol.
Thanx heaps buddy.
Did all that (with minor differances) used my bat drill against the grinder and then 1200 wet n dry to shape the needle and used a 1.5mm drill to open the 140 main to 150.
Feels and sounds like a totaly different bike.
Couldnt recomend this any better 👊🤘
I have just done the mods on the carb airbox exhaust etc. I am now even more of a proud owner, of the dr650. Also I am now feeling like a motorbike mechanic. Life changer thank you very much all who have made these videos. Namaste
The guy before me already upsized the jet although im not sure what make the jet is (155), cut the airbox open 80mm extra and a flowing exhaust with m/pipe. Also didn't have to stuff around with fuel/air adjuster. Am going to test the fuel/mileage and may go down a jetsize wanting around 22kms per litre! wish luck.
i found the fuel economy stayed the same after the jetting mods... IF i didn't use the extra power!
This makes me wish I had a DR 650! Very well done video sir :)
+eveRide ADV thanks tyler, but looking at your ride vids i reckon you must be happy you chose the DRZ back then? you can always jump on the yamaha now if you need more excitement! :D
I'll let you ride mine when I come out there. She'll be a beast by then!
+Spartan ADV unleash the beasts! (in a montgomery burns voice of course)
Just a little tip. At the carb is a small switch, good to see at 7:25, which reduces the power in first three gears. Just pull the plug out and the problem is away. Just try it, it's not a big diffrence, but i doesn't costs anything.
I have done it on our DR 350, and you can feel it a little bit.
Greetings from Germany. Love your vids. Since I'm watching your Videos on your Endurocross channel, I improved riding very much! Thank you Barry ;)
I just did the airbox and slide/needle mods. The bike already had a staintune pipe and a 155 main jet. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! so much more grunt especially down low, it feels like it is 200cc bigger!
I don't have a DR but I tried some of these things on my 125 Honda delivery bike and with a little trouble shooting I was able to get a decent power increase. Better response they l throughout the rev range, but especially in the lower revs. Thanks for the inspiration!
Did this a few months ago - very noticeable improvement just with a 'Busa can and sorting that header weld out.
Got 2 Busa cans taken off a new bike for $200, made 2 adapters and sold the spare system for more than the cost of the whole job.
If you run a neat 3-4mm TIG weld round the header pipe collar you can make that internal weld flush with no issues. (6 months and 10,000k so far)
For an adapter pipe - a standard 1 1/2, 45 degree bend, short length of pipe then a 90 deg bend cut in half to make the joggle worked for me (with a bit of grinding).
I have a drawing of the Busa flange if anyone is interested - printing it out 1:1 and sticking it to the plate is easier than marking - don't use contact adhesive it will shrink the drawing.
Great score on those two new cans! Roughly speaking you'll get 5% more power with the exhaust mod... then another 5% with the airbox and jetting mods.
Bought a '09 DR and tricked up the carb. and A?F box as per the video and put on a Delcovic stainless and carbon fibre exhaust....... magic, starts easily hot or cold, and goes like a jet....Thanks!
Excellent!
You should be paid by Suzuki for your magnificent instruction video.
(Yeah right, like that will happen)
One thing I don't think you mentioned is that in the US we don't get the clip adjustable needle like other countries do.
And our idle jet screw has a soft brass cover installed to keep us from having a good running engine.
That is easily removed fortunately, and a very handy extended idle jet screw is available for easy, no screw driver needed adjustment.
This vid is an excellent instruction on how easy the DR is to wake up from sleepy Zombie state to extreme enduro ready power.
+JagLite48 damn, i should have remembered that. from memory you have to drill the carby as well to access the screw which is hidden on the US model.
Honestly I messed around with these sort of tricks for years, and realize it's like trying to cut a foot off the bottom of a ladder, and taping it to the top to make it longer. You get a little more top end power, and myself always wound up with some dead or flat spot in the middle to low end somewhere. I went through a dozen combinations of jets, pull the carb 50 times, did runs and checked the plugs.
In the end I just put a Lectron carb on. So people who want to open the airbox, and put a free flowing exhaust on that's my recommendation. Just save up for a Lectron or a pumper carb. The Lectron gets generally better miles per gallon, the pumper carb has the opposite effect. Dunno why but it does. However a Lectron carb is around $800, and a pumper carb can range from $400 - 650.
i did all the mods recommended in this video and it turned out as they said it would ,
idles much better now and much more power on take off ,
the bike is much easier to handle at low speeds because of the extra torque
the front wheel does come off the ground easily now witch is great in mountain riding condition
@@marcelcanuck Yeah my buddy did this to his, but he had flat spots too. Racers did this years ago because for example they might only care about how it runs at full throttle, or for a enduro hill climber might only care about low end torque. In generally stripping emissions stuff will get you a little boost. But none of it is like adding a pumper carb or a lectron carb performance wise.
You're talking about a few extra foot pounds of torque, and better throttle response. Which is good but a pumper carb will make it a difference animal entirely.
@@slimjim7411 i might of gotten lucky on the jetting , i ordered a 150 main and a 45 pilot , i never got a flat spot on my bike but i see allot of UA-camrs with that issue ,
i wasn't to impressed with the bike at first , it ran sluggish and stalled out at stop signs was just about to sell it when i spotted this video , now it's a keaper , might try to find a pumper and see what more i can get out of it , now that you've tickled my curiosity must be some on Ebay , be safe 👍
@@marcelcanuck Good luck I think pumpers are a little less expensive but you'll lose some MPG with the Lectron it's more like fuel injection it's just better everything but pumpers run around $400+ and Lectrons run around $600+ last time I checked at least for a 650 thumper.
Shimmed the needle with a number 4 washer. Cut the spring. Cut 2 holes in the slide. Didnt cut the airbox though since i didnt want to rejet it. Runs good. The bike ran super lean before , now much better. The airbox cut may throw off the jetting which I did not change, and works good with stock jets.
I've just done all these mods to my Dr650, and I must say, I'm pretty stoked with the performance gains. Next step will be replacing the stock van with a #35 Gsxr exhaust as soon as I can find a mid pipe locally. Thanks Adventure Oz for the very informative series you have put together.
glad the tips are useful sarath... the DR is certainly one of the most 'improvable' bikes around and still a bargain at the end of it all. :)
just by adding a better fuel filter and carb breather filter, also re-positioning it away from the carb box intake. I saw a boost in how the bike runs. no more surge with a steady throttle either.
thanks for the tips fellas, love the vids. Oregon usa rider here, I'd take bug sounds over endless rain any day of the week haha
Hey man!,
I've been following your dr650 vids for a while and now i've bought a dr650 96' for myself finally!
I rode about 3.000km and now i'm doing all this mods by myself (I have no mechanical skills at all but the best experience comes with dirty hands haha)
I've managed to remove everything and now im going to tighten the carb needle!
Thanks alot for the videos man, great inspiration!
Cheers from Portugal!
obrigado tiago, glad the vids are useful!
No-one ever talks about J I S screws . It should be taught first thing to kids Dirtbikes 101. How many times over the yrs have we all bought a second hand dirt bike only to find all the screws buggered. Spread the word people. Thats a good lesson in itself to do a youtube vid.
yep, just burred one today. how much would it cost for manufacturers to swap over to allen heads on these older models?
Thanks for sharing your expertise, I just want to add that when I taper my needle I plan to take a black marker to the areas of the needle I'm grinding off so it comes out even. I'll just keep applying more marker till I have the right shape.
First thing I notice after the carb mods once the engine was hot when I pull the choke on the motor stalled,like it should,so has before it just ran better on the choke.
The acceleration has jump to Wow,just right,it Wellies now so easy so has before I din’t even bother trying.its no a speed demon but it’s sure a nice power band,torque a low revs is so nice when you play up hill on a wonky terrain now.
I used some JIS tip,s on the factory screws and they came right out. JIS = Japan industrial standard. Thank,s for the great videos.
Great camera work to clearly show the mods.
i did everything thats listed in level three ( 0:15 ). with the extra drilled whole in the air box it loses a lot of power down low to the middle rev range and gains only a really slight amount of power in the far upper rev range. thats why i taped it off. also i got a different muffler (GPR Furore) which is unrideable in the lower rev range when the db eater is in. it stalls if you ease the clutch out. without the eater it has a lot of power and doesnt stall when easing out the clutch but its obnoxiously loud (comparable with a ktm 690 with leo vince x3 without db eater). also i never had the front wheel come up so easily. first time i got it up easily was last week when i changed the gearing from 15-41 to 15-45 and installed a high performance header pipe. still needs the upper rev range for me to clutch it up. im a noob when it comes to wheelies and probably dont have the right timing but it should be way easier on such a big thumper i think.
i mean maybe she lost some power over the years and thats the reason.... shes 19 years old and has 70.000km on the clock
Brilliant video! You've saved me from months of trial and error and potentially getting stranded somewhere in the back of beyond! Thank You!!!!
My pleasure! No school like the old school, and the DR650 can be transformed for relatively little cost.
Thank you for your hard work filming and editing. The best video I've found on this subject!
+Ben Simpson thanks ben... and of course i'm just passing on what so many guys have kindly posted on forums and websites already. :)
Great info and detailed description of how to do it. Your vids are awesome.
I love this series already. I'll be doing that air box mod over doing the standard one. Makes more sense. Great work!
As always great info....after I tweaked my fully modified stock carb to my altitude and other components it ran well.then I installed a new tm 40 with a baseline jet set I determined all that tinkering to be a total waste of time....the usable power increase through the total rev range was evident immediately. Besides the Cogent Dynamics mohave pro and emulators with ohlins springs up front.....the tm40 was money best spent.
Interesting to hear... some say the TM40 is better, others say marginal improvement but not worth the money. I've always had my stock carbs modified by the guy who came up with the 'BST magic mods' and he always nails it. I'm in the former category as I've also owned a DR with a TM fitted and couldn't see much difference at all. It would be very interesting to have both bikes perfectly tuned and put them on a dyno!
If anyone in OZ is interested in a GSXR pipe or FCR39MX pumper carb, I have both that came off my DR. The carb has been fully stripped, rebuilt and jetted appropriately for Australian conditions. Includes intake adapter and new clamps to make it fit
Prior to selling the bike I refit the stock components, in all honesty I prefer the bike with just a jet kit and whats shown above. In fully stock trim it is a bit of a joke, but with an opened up airbox it sounds much meatier, and the carby mods can get you pretty good throttle response, at least 90% of the way to a pumper carb. However what I found is you need to either go for throttle response via overly rich jetting (overcompensates for a lean shift when cracking throttle open, so its actually the right mix straight away) or you jet for economy and suffer some throttle response. A pumper will get you both. But overall I enjoyed it with slightly reduced response because its a gentle giant. As soon as you start chasing those performance enhancements or big improvements it gets expensive and you're never really satisfied. It's always just going to be a DR
Msg'd you :)
+MELEGO351 hmmm don't see any message. I'll have another look later unless u wanna try again
Aidan Gillett Hi, I tried sending another message, (youtube messaging system has been known to fail in my experience) Failing that I could do it through facebook or something. Anyway see if its gone through first :P
Cheers
OK found it, replied
I just stumbled on to your channel while searching DR650 for a possible ADV bike. I'm getting too long in the tooth to be trying to manhandle a 200kg plus bike in tricky going, let alone trying to pick it up on my own without blowing a valve! I have subscribed
Welcome aboard mark!
Use a impact driver on the float bowl screws. Makes it easy and keeps them in good condition.
+wajadog agreed. i think procycle do the screw kits but you could get them from any fastener specialist
Thanks heaps guys . Just did theses mods minus the exhaust. It it works great.
Glad it worked well, the old bush pig definitely wakes up with these mods. A lot of guys spend big on pumper carbs but in my experienced you'll get similar power increases with these cheap mods.
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To get a buggered phillips screw out EASILY ? Simply clamp vise grips on it's head! Easy peasy! ...does not always work if screw is in a recess etc ...but on this carb! I think it will work
Nicely done! We like cheap and it's a great way to get to know your bike in case you need to perform car on the side of the road! 😱Great video as always we're loving this series keep them coming 😀
I'm having a bit of trouble with modifying / upgrading the carb on my DR.
1 My carb is from a 2003 DR. I purchased a noname BST40 rebuild kit on line. I received a new emulsion tube in the kit and it differs from the original.
At Motolab I read their article on worn id of the emulsion tube which probably accounts for the heavy carbon deposits in the combustion cylinder.
I read also the pilot jet was supposed to be 45.0 Mine revealed a 42,5. I installed the 47.5 I purchased from you. so far so good. (Motolab owner says there is no reason to replace the stock pilot jet.)
I began putting the new parts into the carburetor and discovered the new emulsion tube from the rebuild kit is different from the original that I removed from the carburetor. I have 3 needles and none of them fit the ID of the needle jet. Yet all of the needles will fit the original emulsion tube.
I have also read there are a couple of pre manufactured needles depending on the performance required.
(ie: the DJ needle you mention above.)
So what's going on here? Am I just a victim of parts made from Chinesium or am I missing something here?
I've used most of my measuring equipment here. I don't need to measure the ID of the Emulsion tube.
I understand the taper is considerably different from the needles I have, as well as the original Jet.
Further to the original..
I have just now read notes on measuring the wear of an emulsion tube, and decided to insert each of the needles I have and measure the distance from the top of the Emulsion tube to the top of the needle when the needle is inserted till it stops.
The original needle that came from the carburetor was protruding .910". The needle which was supplied in the rebuild kit protruded .888". the needle I purchased from Motolab (part number 13383-32E00 protruded .625.
This indicates to me each of the needles tapers differently.
I'm pretty confused at this point.
I can be reached at Bunkmuffin@gmail.com.
I put a Q4 exhaust on my dr650 with a k&n filter and stage 2 carb mod. Definitely had to do the airbox mod I couldn't get it tuned until it was done. Also the Q4 is quite loud and produces humorous snapping and popping when you let off. Other than being almost annoyingly loud it is a much better machine after that.
I could watch you play with your carby all day
ya big flirt 🤣
Great (video) work .. I wish I could drop my 2013 DR650SM/790 big bore off to you for some all around (tuning) dialing in. I have fcr pumper carb , 190 cam, 790 big bore, over sized valves and head , 5 angle race port , air box mod , k&n air filter. Power bomb header Q4 silencer. Mohave rear shock and front DRZ 400sm usd fork
Really great build mate simple mods huge improvement well done I love this thanks for sharing guys cheers Happy Trails
It was an awesome bike at the end of it! A real shame I couldn't afford to keep it. But I now have the pleasure of starting it all again with my new DR650...
Great stuff, Barry. Thanks! Did similar to my old ('99) DR 350. Big improvements!
6:06, Saab factory toolkit slip joint pliers! They are super good for something you get free at the junkyard.
i just finished doing these mods on my DR , without changing the muffler or grinding the header ,
i'm one happy lazy Canadian mate ! big difference in acceleration and much better idling ,i had to drill out the cap on the pilot jet screw on mine , (i apologize to all u climate change nuts ) , can't wait to take my pig (lol) out for ride , will have to wait until spring tho. as we have 2 feet of snow out here ,
Thanks Mate , i don't care what the world says about u Australians i think u guys are awesome , lol
joyeux noel, monsieur bolduc!
@@crosstrainingadventure
hahaha i knew there was a little bit of french in u guys , only a french man would use an exaust pipe as a mouse calling device , lol , be safe brothers !
Brilliant video guys, always a blast to watch!
My DR is bone stock engine/carb/exhaust. I enjoy the challenge of smoking everybody I ride with with it stock. Honestly it runs fine stock. Handling is what needs work on the DR much more then hop up bits. Its always miles ahead on any sort of dirt road.
agreed brad. i rode mine completely stock for a while and third gear wheelies were still a breeze.... but that suspension and those tyres were pretty scary when pushing hard on the dirt tracks lol.
After study, DR650 is only lean on the needle. stock pilot jet and main jet are fine. So raise the needle is the only mandatory case to run OK (or silght shim). Rejet is not good for mpg but bike run cooler I admit.
I have a DR as an '' Aventure'' bike
best mods
Crash protection
Better seat
25L tank
simple luggage rack
heavier fork oil
the Bike is simpler and lighter with less to break and easier/cheaper to fix!
DR650 put stock needle in die grinder and shaped, 1mm diameter at the point 15mm back straight taper. works a treat on the 3rd clip from the top.
Slagging Canadians at 8:48!! lol. I'm a Canadian and still love your videos! What a great mod. I'll be adding some 'J-Cloths' to my filter routine. Cheers!!
unfortunately it gets much worse over on our dirt riding channel lol
ua-cam.com/video/jlHKtOKq3r8/v-deo.html
Thanks for the step by step clear instructions.
I'll be able to make my bike run better without all the confusion of conflicting forum posts, and I feel much more confident modding my needle after seeing it and your assurances that it doesn't have to be perfect.
Your channel is one of my favorites, whether I want to learn better technique or just enjoy something entertaining.
Thanks Andrew, it's very rare for anyone to have issues. And of course you can always take it back to stock (although you'd need to cover any airbox holes somehow). I don't know anyone who has done that though!
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks.
The airbox mod isn't intimidating to me - and it would be easy to patch with an antifreeze jug and rtv, if someone really screwed it up.
This a really informative video, w/ out being boring and slow.
you guys did awesome on this i wish you would do more like this crazy in depth budget build. like an XR650l or XT250 for the shorties!
thanks lisa! unfortunately it's a crazy amount of work doing this and only possible when you actually own the bike concerned. we have just done a recent vid that looks briefly at known issues with the XR650L though...
You know that remark about lazy Canadians occurred, as I was trying to think of the best way of sending my bike over to you the have these mods done.
Great video! I've done about half these mods, I'll have to get into that carb soon
+BBQ Rider i hate working on bikes usually, but love how a bit of do-it-yourself with that carb can transform the bike.... very motivating!
ADVENTURE OZ
I hate working on bikes always! Luckily I know a guy...
Great Work mate.
I listen to that kid of noise 24/7 with Tinnitus 🙄👂
Procycle also sells a fantastic TM40 Pumper kit if you wanna go all out. The best thing I've done to my DR!
+Matt Lawson must admit i'm more in favour of budget mods matt... our carby mods cost $10 for a main jet andan hours work and i reckon the results are very similar to my old DR which had a TM fitted. the TM is still a bit quicker on the throttle response but i wouldn't want to pay US$520 just for that. the plug n play nature of it is good though for those who don't do-it-yourself projects.
+ADVENTURE OZ I tried the drilled slide, new jets and adjusted needle. I might have completely botched it up because I had a weird jump as soon as I laid into the throttle. I would give it gas, it would accel for a second, then bog out briefly and then continue to accel. I soon after bought the TM40 and that seemed to fix all the problems with the carb. Since then, I have had zero problems with it. Great video by the way!!
+Matt Lawson i'm not carby expert but if you still had the stock needle that would create issues... i think the standard carby either needs the stock needle tapered as per this vid, or an aftermarket needle, to really work properly. a well setup TM40 may outperform gordon's stock carby mods by quite a bit but he's had trouble finding anyone with a well setup pumper carby on their DR to do a direct comparison.
+Matt Lawson
I've had both and a well setup standard carb is just as good with a fraction of the cost. Admitted I got the Dynojet kit which saves time with the needle. The TM had a heavier pull than the standard carb.
Top video. No nonsense, plus a bonus dig at Canadians. What more could you ask?
I love having a dig at my Canadian mates, they usually apologise too. 😁
I've never seen anyone take a needle to a bench grinder. If I was going to do that I'd chuck the needle into a drill. I have used a drill and sand paper to get a "better" taper. That way you get a more even finish and you can measure the needle and get repeatable results.
+505197 i think he's tried various ways but since he's found the straight line best i guess he finds the bench grinder the best way to achieve that...
Excellent work on your DR videos! DR tech resources have come a long way since I started modding mine back in '09. Keep up the good work!
Great vid guys. I might pull my carby again. Greetings from sunny South Africa!
+adventurecraig thanks craig... yes that carby seems to be a major key with unlocking the beast :)
+ADVENTURE OZ Just a quick question mate: My bike is a US import. Had 100Ks on the clock. Now has around 4000. It smokes a few seconds after start-up from cold. It's done that since new to me. Lasts a few seconds before it goes away (engine heating up). Valve seals or rings? Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
+adventurecraig bizarre craig, no new bike should do that. sounds like valve seals but i no bugger all about mechanical stuff. :(
+ADVENTURE OZ No probs. I think the bike stood for about two years and the seals hardened.
I'm going to pull the head and check the stems. I'll mod the carb spring as you guys did. Have a stage two needle in alread and cut the box. I like that acerbis tank. Might put one on while I'm at it! Our currency is so week at the moment though :(
Buy DR650.
Replace - seat, fuel tank, carburetor, exhaust, front and rear shocks, front and rear tyres, headlight, speedometer, handlebars, air filter, mirrors, bearings, footpegs and magneto.
Oh yeah we forgot to tighten a few screws that might mangle your engine aaaaaaand 3rd gear might fail.
$9000 AUD new usually gets you twin cylinders, water cooling, ABS, fuel injection, colour dash with fuel gauge + tach, slipper clutch, LED lights, 6 speed gearbox and a windscreen.
Not here buddy.
"DR650 best bike ever"
Haha.
Yep.
I still want one.
I can pick up a new 2018 650 for $5,500 usd. Think I might go for it as my DL1000A is a bit heavy for serious trail work.
Ha. The 650 is a bit heavy for serious trials.
Love it mate. Very informative, so simple and cost effective for a great result!
+JoeJoe Moto very australian... they want US$520 for a pumper carb? tell him he's dreaming!
What a great how to. Puts my old vids' to shame.
+n45829 i look back on the trials series i did only two years ago and they look terrible in comparison... this video editing is steep learning curve!
nice going guys, very well set out!!
I just did Carb modes. I saw this video yesterday, today was drilling, cutting and grinding :)
By the way my first bike and my first time touching Carb, my mechanical skills on are maybe level 2 of 10. Bike feel completely different, I am so happy wit this mode. Next is exhaust modes, but bolts on header are so rusty and stuck I don't know how to unscrew them, I am scared to don't brake bolts, or maybe worst magnesium case.
Nice work!
I dont wanna polish your balls but I have to Say that so far I'm completely hooked! (pun intended!) can't wait to see how your porka turns out....
Subbed and
Much love from Yorkshire
cheers neal, the whole DR650 series was finished ages ago on this channel. we also did a video or two about the finished DR on our enduro channel:
ua-cam.com/video/RA0R37FnLeM/v-deo.html
The needle is a 6F23... Replace it with a 6F19 same needle profile but it is adjustable.
Very useful, thank you so much for the information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for your time.
a pleasure, don!
Someone posted a video of them grinding inside of the engine where that pipe is inserted. There is also a lip!
I did similar to my DRZ400E except installed a JD Jet kit. Went "acceptable" after that.
@Der Wuestenfuchs It made a massive difference and much smoother. Heaps more torque across the rev range. Lifts the front wheel much easier.
The modded needle is a great idea.
These are REAL mods!
wtf is with all the Canuck hate m8s haha.
Great, informative video. I went the FCR39mx route, and absolutely no regrets. That carby chirping tho. You just don't get that with the stocker :D.
+SineOccasu gordon actually said to make sure i give his countrymen a hard time when i put the vid together lol!
you guys say the fuel economy improves after these mods? what are you getting on the pavement mpg or kpl? i'm sticking with a stock setup 2008 dr650 getting 50 mpg. i modded my 2007 drz400 so much i went from 55mpg down to 30mpg but it's actually faster to 60mph than my dr650. i really don't want to decrease the MPG so i have been hearing just upgrading the exhaust will improve power but not hurt mpg on the dr650...is that true?
7 years after DR650 project video was posted
I'm here to say none of that went on my 2008
DR650SE. Are good to go as it.
Yep an unmodified DR650 will certainly suit a lot of riders as is. I kept my latest one untouched for a few months for warranty reasons but also to see how capable it was completely stock. But a few basic engine and suspension mods definitely transform the bike for riders wanting to push the bushpig a bit harder.
Very Cool Vid, very helpful I will be doing a buildup of my DR650 soon
Can I get away with doing all the level 3 mods without changing the muffler? Thanks in advance.
I just checked my DRs secondary air filter and realized that half of the thing is just missing😳😳 Well good think that I already ordered a replacement and havent been riding in too bad conditions..
I try to avoid dust as much as possible. You just never know if your air filter isn't quite in place or dust is working its way in to electrical connections etc. So whenever it's dusty I just distance myself enough from the rider in front. I'm always surprised at riders who happily sit behind other riders in clouds of dust and they (and their bikes) are just brown with dust at the end of the day. 🤔
Man you guys are keen doing that with the carby still on the bike 😅 I just took mine right out
I love this series
This video has helped me so much🙏
Great to hear, Darian!
impact driver works well to remove float bowl screws
Once you get enough experience on that DR I may let you work on my XR650R hehe
Ok, I am confused, on the needle shown in this video, of which is awesome, it shows the clip over the spacer. but on my ProCycle Jet Kit, it shows and is worded that the spacer sits on the clip, have the got it wrong or does it work both ways as the spring holds it down anyway?
Thanks for sharing, mate
what size JIS screwdriver, 75, 100 or 150, thanks
Hey what year and what milage was on this bike? Did you notice any whining in 3rd gear? I just picked up an 07 and I have 3rd gear whining. Suzuki supposedly corrected the issues with the gears after 06.. I am finding after coming across many posts that they obviously did not correct the issue. I have 11k miles and it runs great but there is the 3rd gear while..How concerned should I be? Also.. What ear GSXR pipes will work? I plan on doing these mods to the bike but I hope that the 3rd gear is gonna hold out...
we covered third gear issues in the 'DR650 known issues' vid, jay. 😊
hey again! should we change the main jet size to 115 or 150? sorry, just asking to make sure, i've already bought the 115 and i was about to install it... i hope i've heard it
correctly! thanks a lot
For everyone wondering, its the 150mm. I've installed it and its perfect. Actually, I've just arrived from a 4.000km trip with my girlfriend and the dr650 handled us both perfectly. My next mod will be changing the exhaust for the gsxr + the midpipe . When i bought my bike, it came with a marving exhaust but its too loud for me.
thanks alot for the help ADV OZ. I've done myself all the mods that you suggested and the bike improved ALOT.
/cheers
Do you prefer the DR650 or the XR600? There's a nice Ballards kitted XR640 (400klms old) for sale in Cairns for $4,000 at the moment.
Xr600!!! ANYDAY🙌🏾🙌🏾
Really an excellent video...and very well presented ....However..do you have any videos on the Kawasaki klr650..in the similar vein...
Reason..l am thinking of buying one 1990-2003. But also did look at the DR650..
Was after the larger tank..as have distance to travel..
There was a link at the end of this vid to the info you are chasing ua-cam.com/video/7-TW4aOPeVw/v-deo.html
Did most of this to my dr650
Different bike!! Plus I found out I needed to replace my slide guide
love being a Canadian, although I prefer calling it working smart, not being lazy...lol😁
So true! But I love poking fun at Gordon lol
Thanks for the videos and the great, informative info. Would drilling the extra hole in the slide and tapering the needle without changing the main jet help or hurt performance?
As per the vid, certain mods need to go hand in hand with airbox mods and different exhaust. Summarised this in the pinned first comment.
@@crosstrainingadventure
Thanks! I have changed exhaust and was moving on to the next step. I was thinking of doing the needle taper and slide without main jet upgrade, but looks like the jet will have to be at the same time. Thanks again for your videos!
Do they sell premade kits for all you did with the carb needless and such?
I'm in the US and I really like your video. Many great points. I used a 1/4 drive with a #2 phillips to break loose the float bowl screws (I know it's JIS) ;) That took nothing compared to all my might just prior. Also replaced with hex bolts.
I'm mainly commenting because I'd like to know how the bike ran after your needle taper and shelf shave. From what I understand, the tip is more "open throttle" and the middle flat taper is more low throttle/less fuel. You've also dropped the needle substantially with the shelf shave.. so less fuel, but thinner taper. but I'm guessing the snorkelectomy and new hole helps with the rich taper. Complex relationship there... Thoughts? Mainly, how's it run?
+Chris Walther as per the vid chris more power across the revs, more economy IF you don't use the extra power, starts easier. all good and no bad. :D