It's an old local work truck, he doesn't care about how it looks. If we went LED it would cost hundreds to change everything over, kind of pointless to do 1 or 2 lights at a time. But if we ever did the body work on it, I would suggest going LEDs all the way.
Nice job Gordo! That plastic covering over the wires we is called split loom used to cover wires and keep multiple wires together them neat. I know that the older trucks used to use that fiber like tubing to cover the wires. That would have been pre 80's like anything that used to be good. Lol!
Hi Gordon - good job - next time you have a soldering job try to use liquid electrical tape on the soldered wires - then wrap electrical tape - it will be protected in all types of weather .
i put muratic acid and a q-tip to clean copper wire before soldering. it is a light acid and wont hurt the wire or insulation. works great. i also like to put de-ox on the solder joint and then use heat shrink over it. it seems to work well.
Sorry about the heat shrink, I was out of the size to fit that wire. I'll have to disagree with you on the M. acid, I know how well it cleans and it can be used if diluted about 50% and then neutralized good with baking soda, but the acid soaks into the stranded wire where you won't get it neutralized enough and in time you will most likely have green corrosion that can end up eating through the wire. I was taught to never use acid core solder on electric work, if the M. acid was ok then so should be the plumbing solder. Thanks for your comment. I have used the muriatic acid mix for soaking multi connectors and switch contacts but always fear the acid getting into the stranded wire. Vinegar helps too.
Gordon Robertson everybody likes what they like. I have never had any problems with doing it this way. always lasted longer than the truck or trailer. I appreciate your respectful way of disagreeing.
I need to do the entire headlight running light and turn signals on the tractor. I have a 95 classic. They butchered the harness. No solder anywhere cut wires not connected everywhere as well. Any instruction you may have or any videos you may be able to recommend would be much appreciated. I can do the repair you've done in this video no problem, the only issue I have is breaking down every wire in the harness and figuring out each one. They hooked the damn wiper power into the headlights as well. When the lights are on I have no left turn signal and when they're off I have a left turn signal. Right turn signal always works. Just wanted to give some more information. Thanks in advance. I'm shut down til I get this problem fixed. These problems were "inherited " in the last two weeks but obviously took almost 3 decades to create so I understand I'm asking alot but like I said any help is much appreciated. I'm in ohio near Cleveland.
I can't be much help 600 miles away in the St. Louis area but I can tell you your left turn sounds like it is grounded to one of the hot wires on the headlight which gets canceled out when the lights are on. Give that turn signal a true ground and it will work fine. I'll try to remember this and another recent question on some electric work I did on a motorcycle as well as some older questions on small engine electric videos I did in the past and I will try to do a series on running down electric problems and the basic laws of how electric works and what size wire goes with what fuse/breaker and why. Once I understood this I never had any trouble fixing any electric on any 12 volt and also on 120/240 ac in houses. You might find some help in my playlists on auto electric and house electric.
Thank you I appreciate it. I figured it was a wire crossed somewhere just needed to hear it from someone with a clue. I can wire an entire house but in a vehicle I can replace existing but finding problems has been difficult in the past. I appreciate the fast response. Thanks again.
Watched many of your videos, seems I just need bigger tools for the bigger toys, and good common sense. Good advice to solder the connections in a high vibration environment. Consider a blob of vaseline or dielectric grease on the inside of the connector to keep the corrosion at bay on the contacts. Like your ground level camera and monitor setup! Innovation at its finest. Now put wheels on for pan shots! LOL
NICE VID,, pete sujestion of liq-tape,, howerver, its a good idea to use heatshrink tape,, do not use electric tape, unless you use liq tape to seal the exsterer end of the tape,, that way the tape don,t unravel later on down the line,,, I like the way you talk and exsplain as you go,, great job,, i just bought a 1977 kw,, and fine your vidieos most helpfull,, thank you
I have used sandpaper before to scrape the black off. Just spread the wire and fold the sandpaper over the threads and pull on the wire a few times. Every time I tried using cutters to scrape, I'd end up cutting the wire. I use liquid soap on the rubber grommets popping the lights back in. They seem to slip in pretty easy that way.
I was trying to rewire two reverse lights on a freight liner today with no success. Replaced to brand new 12v lights and getting only 10v on the meter. Problem?
you prolly dont care but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my brother for the last few weeks =)
if youve heard of 'cliit bang' cleaner, it works great to dip copper wires into to make them shiny for soldering, i also use it on inside things where the batteries leaked and it cleaned off all the corrosion, but i understand this is a field repair, you gotta just get it done!
When we can not get the lead to stick to the green or black "copper" "We hit it with acid core solder, it rocks!" give it a shot! try it night and day difference, and its cheap. Auto Zone sells it for a reason. I've become a believer in using 3m crimp connectors with a shot of batt. term. protector. Maintaining over a 1 hundred Refg. produce trucks gotta think outside the box. LED's from Grote are a god send on Chicago's' "washboard roads"
I always get the rosin core to flow one way or another, I know the acid core or paste flux will work too but down the road a few years it can bite you in the rear especially on outside wiring, it will turn green and keep working on that fine stranded wire and on up into the insulation. I was taught not to use acid solder on electric, I know it will work fast but can't trust it for too long. Thanks for watching.
On my peterbilt tractor the back up white light I bought a replacement and I cant get that sucker back in the bracket. I never had such a problem it's the same light as the old one. Do I need wd40 to get it to go in? Omg!!
Hello sir I am having trouble on my freighliner the backup lights wont work,the reverse buzzer turns on when I go in reverse but the lights wont work, what wire off the reverse light lense is the one that hooks up when u engage the reverse
Gordon I watch all of your videos and I am desperate for some help on my 99 Kenworth w900 the brake lights are not working on truck or trailer. I have unhooked trailer to see if it could be shorting out truck. They still wont work on the truck with trailer unhooked. I have checked all fuses and relays and they seem to be good. If you have any advice I would be very very appreciative.
I haven't had to do that one on mine yet. The first thing that comes to mind is to check the brake light switch, on mine it is a N O (Normally Open) pressure switch, it looks like the oil pressure switch on the older cars and uses the same special socket to replace it. It will be under the dash somewhere on the brake air lines. That's the best I can do for now. 'Hope it helps.
I wish someone would show what wires go to what from truck end .... yellow = right turn... White is ground and it connects to..... would help greatly... anyone know????
I've covered that before if not on this video maybe in my playlist on car repair or auto electric, but that's ok here you go. On a truck white usually is ground, on everything, green is right turn, yellow is left turn, brown is tail lights. I remember yellow left is like caution on left turn and green on right is like safe to turn.
I having problems with brakes lights with out preassure on the switch the brakes lights stays on when the preassure builds up lights goes out when press brakes pedal no brakes lights only 4 wires goes to the back of the truck 2red signals 1brown(park lights) 1white reverce
You can't beat soldering connections for anything exposed to the weather. Crimp on are only good for inside or well protected areas, I still solder everything, look what happened to the wire inside the insulation, 'ever seen green and white corrosion on exposed connections?
There's a flux called Chipquik - No clean paste flux for laptop motherboard work - yes the video looked good - did a good job on the video - seen about everything - use this to remove the motherboard transistors and other components - don't see why the chipquik wouldn't work for wires - got it on E bay - suggestion only - it's in a small liquid tube
Gordon, one of your best videos, learned a lot of very useful stuff. Your area is lucky to have you.
Thank you Sir.
Not many trucks running around without led lights anymore, very nostalgic:)
It's an old local work truck, he doesn't care about how it looks. If we went LED it would cost hundreds to change everything over, kind of pointless to do 1 or 2 lights at a time. But if we ever did the body work on it, I would suggest going LEDs all the way.
Gordon real good video on the brake system and wiring, you tell and show it right. thanks sam
Thank you Sir.
Nice job Gordo! That plastic covering over the wires we is called split loom used to cover wires and keep multiple wires together them neat. I know that the older trucks used to use that fiber like tubing to cover the wires. That would have been pre 80's like anything that used to be good. Lol!
Thanks for watching.
Hey Gordon I really like you videos it's really has helped me fix my truck and get going and save some money.... thank you
Hi Gordon - good job - next time you have a soldering job try to use liquid electrical tape on the soldered wires - then wrap electrical tape - it will be protected in all types of weather .
Good Idea, thanks.
also good is heat shrink and self amalgamating tape, but you cant carry everything!
You really have some great videos. Thank you for doing them on Freightliner Colombia's. This is for all your videos. Love them
i put muratic acid and a q-tip to clean copper wire before soldering. it is a light acid and wont hurt the wire or insulation. works great. i also like to put de-ox on the solder joint and then use heat shrink over it. it seems to work well.
Sorry about the heat shrink, I was out of the size to fit that wire. I'll have to disagree with you on the M. acid, I know how well it cleans and it can be used if diluted about 50% and then neutralized good with baking soda, but the acid soaks into the stranded wire where you won't get it neutralized enough and in time you will most likely have green corrosion that can end up eating through the wire. I was taught to never use acid core solder on electric work, if the M. acid was ok then so should be the plumbing solder. Thanks for your comment. I have used the muriatic acid mix for soaking multi connectors and switch contacts but always fear the acid getting into the stranded wire. Vinegar helps too.
Gordon Robertson everybody likes what they like. I have never had any problems with doing it this way. always lasted longer than the truck or trailer. I appreciate your respectful way of disagreeing.
I need to do the entire headlight running light and turn signals on the tractor. I have a 95 classic. They butchered the harness. No solder anywhere cut wires not connected everywhere as well. Any instruction you may have or any videos you may be able to recommend would be much appreciated. I can do the repair you've done in this video no problem, the only issue I have is breaking down every wire in the harness and figuring out each one. They hooked the damn wiper power into the headlights as well. When the lights are on I have no left turn signal and when they're off I have a left turn signal. Right turn signal always works. Just wanted to give some more information. Thanks in advance. I'm shut down til I get this problem fixed. These problems were "inherited " in the last two weeks but obviously took almost 3 decades to create so I understand I'm asking alot but like I said any help is much appreciated. I'm in ohio near Cleveland.
I can't be much help 600 miles away in the St. Louis area but I can tell you your left turn sounds like it is grounded to one of the hot wires on the headlight which gets canceled out when the lights are on. Give that turn signal a true ground and it will work fine. I'll try to remember this and another recent question on some electric work I did on a motorcycle as well as some older questions on small engine electric videos I did in the past and I will try to do a series on running down electric problems and the basic laws of how electric works and what size wire goes with what fuse/breaker and why. Once I understood this I never had any trouble fixing any electric on any 12 volt and also on 120/240 ac in houses.
You might find some help in my playlists on auto electric and house electric.
Thank you I appreciate it. I figured it was a wire crossed somewhere just needed to hear it from someone with a clue. I can wire an entire house but in a vehicle I can replace existing but finding problems has been difficult in the past. I appreciate the fast response. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video you saved me $200 + dollers
Glad to hear it helped Sergio.
Watched many of your videos, seems I just need bigger tools for the bigger toys, and good common sense. Good advice to solder the connections in a high vibration environment. Consider a blob of vaseline or dielectric grease on the inside of the connector to keep the corrosion at bay on the contacts.
Like your ground level camera and monitor setup! Innovation at its finest. Now put wheels on for pan shots! LOL
You're right, the grease does help at the plug in connection. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gordon wish they were more people in the world like you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That a Boy Gordon!!!
NICE VID,, pete sujestion of liq-tape,, howerver, its a good idea to use heatshrink tape,, do not use electric tape, unless you use liq tape to seal the exsterer end of the tape,, that way the tape don,t unravel later on down the line,,,
I like the way you talk and exsplain as you go,, great job,, i just bought a 1977 kw,, and fine your vidieos most helpfull,, thank you
I have used sandpaper before to scrape the black off. Just spread the wire and fold the sandpaper over the threads and pull on the wire a few times. Every time I tried using cutters to scrape, I'd end up cutting the wire. I use liquid soap on the rubber grommets popping the lights back in. They seem to slip in pretty easy that way.
Good idea. Thanks for commenting.
9:51 I never knew this. I struggled with this problem before and didn't understand why it wouldn't go on the wire.
I was trying to rewire two reverse lights on a freight liner today with no success. Replaced to brand new 12v lights and getting only 10v on the meter. Problem?
I have white wire turns double, I have black wire turns double, two red wires, one is flasher and right turn signal, and no left turn signal wire.
Great voice. The Johnny Cash of auto electrical 😜
you prolly dont care but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch pretty much all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my brother for the last few weeks =)
@Alvaro Chaim Yea, I've been watching on Instaflixxer for since december myself =)
Thanks for ur time and video.
if youve heard of 'cliit bang' cleaner, it works great to dip copper wires into to make them shiny for soldering, i also use it on inside things where the batteries leaked and it cleaned off all the corrosion, but i understand this is a field repair, you gotta just get it done!
Another excellent video! Love the big truck videos!
Thank you sir.
That wd40 trick worked 👌 thanks
Thanks sir. You helped me a lot. God bless u
Keep up to great work on the videos
When we can not get the lead to stick to the green or black "copper" "We hit it with acid core solder, it rocks!" give it a shot! try it night and day difference, and its cheap. Auto Zone sells it for a reason. I've become a believer in using 3m crimp connectors with a shot of batt. term. protector. Maintaining over a 1 hundred Refg. produce trucks gotta think outside the box. LED's from Grote are a god send on Chicago's' "washboard roads"
I always get the rosin core to flow one way or another, I know the acid core or paste flux will work too but down the road a few years it can bite you in the rear especially on outside wiring, it will turn green and keep working on that fine stranded wire and on up into the insulation. I was taught not to use acid solder on electric, I know it will work fast but can't trust it for too long. Thanks for watching.
Agreed another great video
Thank you Sir.
On my peterbilt tractor the back up white light I bought a replacement and I cant get that sucker back in the bracket. I never had such a problem it's the same light as the old one. Do I need wd40 to get it to go in? Omg!!
Sir do you know the guage of the wires. Thanks
Hello sir I am having trouble on my freighliner the backup lights wont work,the reverse buzzer turns on when I go in reverse but the lights wont work, what wire off the reverse light lense is the one that hooks up when u engage the reverse
Gordon I watch all of your videos and I am desperate for some help on my 99 Kenworth w900 the brake lights are not working on truck or trailer. I have unhooked trailer to see if it could be shorting out truck. They still wont work on the truck with trailer unhooked. I have checked all fuses and relays and they seem to be good. If you have any advice I would be very very appreciative.
I haven't had to do that one on mine yet. The first thing that comes to mind is to check the brake light switch, on mine it is a N O (Normally Open) pressure switch, it looks like the oil pressure switch on the older cars and uses the same special socket to replace it. It will be under the dash somewhere on the brake air lines. That's the best I can do for now. 'Hope it helps.
@@57bagre thank you sir for your time.
@@57bagre Mr Gordon you were right point on one of the brake light switches had a loose wire thanks !!!
I wish someone would show what wires go to what from truck end .... yellow = right turn...
White is ground and it connects to..... would help greatly... anyone know????
I've covered that before if not on this video maybe in my playlist on car repair or auto electric, but that's ok here you go. On a truck white usually is ground, on everything, green is right turn, yellow is left turn, brown is tail lights. I remember yellow left is like caution on left turn and green on right is like safe to turn.
I having problems with brakes lights with out preassure on the switch the brakes lights stays on when the preassure builds up lights goes out when press brakes pedal no brakes lights only 4 wires goes to the back of the truck 2red signals 1brown(park lights) 1white reverce
Are you sure you have the right brake light switch in? the n/o looks the same as the n/c but will have the opposite effect.
Maybe try so of these wire contact s. car quest part number stp 525 they are water proof just put wires in holes then clamp with pliers
You can't beat soldering connections for anything exposed to the weather. Crimp on are only good for inside or well protected areas, I still solder everything, look what happened to the wire inside the insulation, 'ever seen green and white corrosion on exposed connections?
Wire loom
Your not putting any flux - that would help out I believe
Can't use plumbing flux on electric.
There's a flux called Chipquik - No clean paste flux for laptop motherboard work - yes the video looked good - did a good job on the video - seen about everything - use this to remove the motherboard transistors and other components - don't see why the chipquik wouldn't work for wires - got it on E bay - suggestion only - it's in a small liquid tube
Could have put on a heat sleeve on the wire ???
did you find anything right with it?
Not helpfull this is v easy