Nutrition For Climbers | Lattice Training
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- In this episode of Ask Lattice Josh talks to Nutritionist, Ed Smith, all about what we can do as climbers to support our training and what some of the most common mistakes are. Ed is currently studying a PhD in nutrition, focused on the nutritional intake of climbers. So we are getting insights hot off the press. Ed also covers one of the most asked questions we get asked as coaches, "what's the best way to cut weight for my peak" and if this is even necessary.
This conversation ran over as we continued to talk to Ed about his experience with calisthenic training. Ed is total beast at this form of training and has many years under his belt. Watch this space, we'll release this episode in our next Ask Lattice.
Intro (0:00)
Haribo or banana? (1:05)
What common habit would you recommend adding/changing for most climbers? (3:00)
What is the best/safest method to cut weight? (6:50)
What does a nutrition plan look like? (15:10)
Any interesting findings so far in your PhD? (24:05)
What can climbers do to better understand their diet? (32:52)
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We cut this one short, watch out for part 2 where we discuss Ed's calisthenics training.
Watching this while munching on a phat cheese toasty
Hope it's with a cup of Yorkshire Tea! :-)
Fabulous- Thank you. Very helpful!
I keep it like Alexander Huber : yogurt and three to four beers
Before or after training?
@@LatticeTraining yogurt before, beer afterwards
@@LatticeTraining during oO
@@chaosengine4597 we should have known. The real use for a chalk bag, beer holder.
I did Keto (less than 20g carbs per day) for about 6 months my climbing performance was not affected negatively. On my regular diet I also find that I crave vitamin C rich food much more when climbing regularly compared with my time spent practicing other sports.
Hi Jigoro, good to hear you had a good response to Keto. Some people do really well on this diet. Interesting to hear about the Vit-C craving.
I prefer jelly babies as they come pre-chalked.
😂😂😂
Can you guys fix the audio mix so the mics are higher and/or add subtitles? I'm trying to listen on a laptop with full volume and still missing some of what Ed is saying
Just stumbled across this great talk. Thanks a lot to Ed for all the insight. Just one question: I made some good experiences with intermittent fasting. My "eating period" is usually between 7-15 and I try to stay away from solid food the rest of the day. Most of my training (climbing/strength training/running) falls into the fasting period, especially in the evening because I am also a working dad. So far I found this pretty beneficial to keeping a good "fighting weight" and performing well. I always try to eat healthy not cutting out any macros and meeting my estimated caloric requirements (I might be wrong there...). So far I have a good feeling (way better than with low carb). Do you think this could work for some individuals or is it damaging the body way too much? Would appreciate your thoughts on that. Thanks a lot from Germany!
I’m not a doctor but it probably wouldn’t hurt to fuel up a bit after workouts, DOMS be like
im on the opposite end im always trying to gain weight instead of lose it...6'2 and 142 lbs
Fantastic video, audio was just a bit quiet on Ed's mic
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback too.
@@LatticeTraining If you adjust the volume, bring the interview up to the volume of the music, not the other way round. Had my Laptopvolume on 100%
Thanks for the content
@@matthiaskinateder3725 thanks for the feedback. We are making sure to adjust part 2!
I don't know what a "Jelly Baby" is but it sounds great 😂
A very sugary sweet! They are great!
This video is really good 👌
A lot better than your previous video on nutrition.
Thanks Thomas! Part 2 coming soon, we ask Ed about his calisthenics training and why his biceps are so big.
thanks really interesting. Does Ed see REDS in climbers. Know it can be a problem in other sports. And what does he think about Dave MacCloud's take on high fat low carb diets. It seems very individualised; depends on so many factors, genetics, epigenetic markers, gestation, environment and that's not even considering training load. You only need look at the Dutch hunger winter for evidence.
Hi Nick, we've put out a reasonable amount of content (incl some on this channel) on our social media regarding RED-S so in short answer, yes we do see it in climbers unfortunately.
So do I need to be counting my calories or keeping track of how much calories I’m eating per day or should I just listen purely to my body and what it’s telling me
Bananas & sesame snaps, bite of one bite of another... phenomenal!
That sounds amazing! Power combo!
what do you think about keto and climbing ?
love your content always but please work on the audio quality/levels. Maybe see if you can squeeze the dynamic range in post, or use a different mic setup :)
Thanks Nicholas, sorry for the audio issue. We've tried to fix it on the next one.
@@LatticeTraining no worries, hope it was constructive feedback! My hearing isn't amazing so it gets between me and your great content 💖
When Ed mentions the "recommended" 500 kcal deficit per day, what is that relative to maintenance calories? Are we assuming a 2000 kcal maintenance? Percentages would be very useful in future videos (esp seeing the proclivity for disordered eating patterns in climbers as lighter = oftentimes seen as entirely better)
Hi Cinni, thanks for the feedback. You are correct, percentages are generally more accurate for the indivuidal. I think most viewers can contextualize "500kcal" but we know this will be different for each person and we don't suggest this the rule.
500kcal a day deficit from maintenance is generally suggested because it roughly equates to a 0.5kg drop in weight per week. This is considered a healthy maintainable amount to loose a week but can be upped to 1000kcal. Because of this percentages don’t really matter. Someone’s who maintenance is 2000kcal will loose 0.5kg a week with a 500kcal deficit, as will someone who’s maintenance is 3500kcal.
RedBull, bananas before or during and yogurt after 🤟
Hi. regarding losing weight. Does it really make sense to lose weight slowly if you don't have a lot to cut? It will mean you will be in a caloric deficit for longer. Would it not be better to do it quickly?
you can do it quickly but it's brutal if you're maintaining a high level of physical activity at the same time.
Hi Marek, In this video Ed does mention that cutting weight in a short period can be beneficial if you don't have much to loose. I believe he said this can work well during a taper period which is usually a couple weeks. But there is such a thing as loosing weight to quickly! Maybe worth having another watch.
I would just get it done in a reasonable time. Like 0.5 % of bw a week then start maintenance or a bulk as soon as you hit the desired weight. Long diets are horrible for progress and you will lose strengths even if your bw to str ratio gets better.
Gregg's vegan sausage rolls are the best crag snack hands down
And probably the unhealthiest one :'(
I hear they are good!
I would appreciate subtitles.
*wandering of with your thoughts back to the wall while all this talking*
Dried mango or any trail mix.
Dried mango is the best!
Larabars and apples
Love bars made from real fruit!
Pemmican
That's an new one for us. Thanks for the suggestion!
Steak.
For a crag snack? Is this Ron Swanson?
@@LatticeTraining Ron Swanson climbs 9c.
@@Outagetme23 I don't doubt it.
@@LatticeTraining You know Ron is at your crag when you smell the grill on the approach.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 hahahah!
I love the channel, and dont dount the content discussed is great... but dont make your awkward host wear a red t shirt whilst your shy guest recites a script wearing a white t shirt that blends into the background. Just compositional treachery and distracts from the point at hand. Otherwise always great talking points and content
Hi Jimmy, glad you liked the content! Thanks for the feedback. Josh is new to the camera (we think he did fine) and Ed just talks like that, no script ;D content is key for us, cinematography is not our USP but we'll try our best.
Not the vibe I was going for in the delivery of my responses but I’m flattered you thought it was scripted! I’m looking forward to producing more content with Josh and developing my camera presence (I am totally new to this too!).
I'd say not scripted, just confident, it can be the same with anyone who knows what they're talking about within their profession.