I have an old trick you may be able to use,I had cars of the 70's and when I broke a motor mount I would go to the hardware store and get a piece of 1/8"cable about a foot or so long and 2 cable clamps..if you can find a place near your motor mount on the frame then you can put your cable around where the mount is and around the place you will tie off to on the frame,pull the cable tight and clamp it off and you will never break another one,this should work with the broken mount also.good luck.
You know...today I took off the old mount but I can't install the new one in your video I learned how to put the new one by pushing up the engine thaaaaaaaaanx alot respect from Saudi Arabia
I saw your video its good u take time to show others.my mother has same quest and i have the complete schematic master service manual ,the one that certified auto service mechanics use at the nissan dealer ship use.well reason why your mounts are going bad quick is cuz your supossed to tourque them at 58 to 65 foots of lb after u remove the support jack off it and and lowered the vehichle off jack stands.thens is when u finalize the ft lbs of tourque on the engine mount through bolt .
Thanks for the video, it answered the questions I had and I did it today. 2 things I'd add, since this is a problem that is so common, if you buy the part at a place that has a lifetime guarantee, like Auto Zone, you won't have to pay for it twice, or three times. I just paid $30 for the mount, and it's got a lifetime guarantee. Second, attach the bolt through the bushing part of the mount, then though the frame, it's more difficult to do it the other way. Thanks again. Saved me $320!
Thanks for making this video! I was able to get all 4 mounts for $56 with shipping on ebay from a motor mount company in Florida and added Dap brand sealant/adhesive to fill in the spaces. Taking the whole support beam down wasn't that hard using a breaker bar and air ratchet and used my electric impact to remove the bolts for the beam. Sounds like doing all 4 at once is wise.
Just did mine today. It took nearly an hour to take it out, but only 20 min. to put it in...easy job. Keep in mine...jack the engine to align the top bolt...this will make the difference...I guarantee it.
Thank you so much for this video. I never would have been able to do this without your advice to jack up the engine. I had to use some wood as well to make the jack lift up the engine enough. Furthermore, a creeper really helped me out on this project.
thank you very much indeed for the time you spent putting this video together, which has been very helpful and saved me money on repairs. I wish there were more people like you that share this type of information.
ive replaced that mount twice now in one year but there are 4 mounts. Not as easy to get at. If those are bad which they likely are its almost certain that the mount in this video is taking the full brunt of the engine and going bad over and over. Also Ive done this one twice--I jacked up under the oil pan and I really did not have the problems a couple other vehicles mentioned--possibly not identical setup . I did not have to remove the filter at all. I simply adjusted with the jack after loosing the bolts till I felt them go limp. Now I will replace all 4 no matter what it takes. One video shows simply taking off the cross member--and magically there are both mounts to replace after you take out the top bolts. I will use that method this time. Mine is 99 villager--3.3
Great video, thank you. I was just at the dealer this morning and they wanted about $350 to do this. Being mechanically inclined, your video makes me certain I can do this myself.
Thanks for the advice!! Everything went well except that these mounts I bought needed to be banged a little to fit. I did not torque down the top bolt to specs but the engine puts weight on it anyway. It was pretty tight. Should I go back and check? It is an old car and the mount should outlive the car. I really appreciate people like you doing videos. I am a HS teacher and coach and I am teaching all the time..you are really a teacher!!!Thankyou!!!
A few notes after just doing the same. First and foremost, thank-you for this guide. Now... IF you have a 1999 Quest, you first get to drain the oil so you can remove the oil filter. Without removing that filter you will NEVER get the back lower bolt out. When the author said that he got out the "heavy artillery" I had to chuckle. So did I. I even ran it on about 10 lbs more pressure than it's max rating. Didn't budge the nuts, which, by the way, can NOT be gotten at properly with the pneumatic gun but have to be angled onto. Anyway, I had to use a wrench, hold on under the front bumper and use my leg muscles to break the two bottom loose. Also please note that on the inboard side the top fitting is NOT a nut, it is part of an assembly. The top one must be approached from the outboard side. Also if you are working with a 1999 Quest, if you bought the oil filter that is given by the manual at WalMart, you have purchased the WRONG one. It takes some dang thing smaller that I will go looking for tomorrow. Last (for now), when putting things back together, PUT THE TOP BOLT IN FIRST. You will be jacking the engine up, and if your front tires are on ramps, your driver's side front tire will come slightly up off the ramp just enough to scare you when you are trying to take the old mount out or fit the new one in. You will have to jockey the lifting of the engine around a bit to get the bolt alignment, not to mention use a large screwdriver as a pry bar. If you do the bottom bolts first you will never get the top to align. I guess they improved this as they years went on, even though the mounting flaw remained. As for wrench sizes, I found that I needed two sizes, a 14mm ad a 17mm (Oh, also some small non-memorable one for that metal plate you need to remove forward of the oil filter). Good luck-
Can you please clarify what you mean by inboard and outboard? You must be boat mechanic. I think in terms of passenger side, drivers side, front/back of engine.
Just bought a 1993 Quest for $700 bucks, drove it from Miami, Florida to Houston, Texas with no issues. Got her to Texas and a week later had a leaking freeze plug on the inside. Had to drop the rear engine mount and its pretty bad, might as well replace. Other then that car is pretty solid. Don't like Nissan or Ford but a great A to B car.
Thank you for the video. I think I can pull it off now. I originally went in to have the transmission checked since it would slam into gear. Come to find out, it was slamming because of the lose motor mounts. What I don't is if the transmission slippage was caused by the lose motor mounts. I guess I will replace the motor mounts and see if it continues to slam and slip in the different gears. Thank you again! Very helpful and I appreciate the safety tips. Good luck telling your wife to slow down :-).
i just had my timing belt, waterpump, drive belts, & plugs changed at a dealership & the mounts were still good on my vehicle; just because i use the parking brake pedal as noted earlier... nicely running right now w/ cap/rotor/wires/filters going to be changed over the weekend. I'm going to keep it for up to another 10 years~ ford did good when they insisted to modify the heads to make these vehicles non-interference~ that was my main reason going with this 3.3L (non-interference on 3.0L too)
You have to drop the engine down first onto it so it doesn't stretch the rubber and then you tighten the bolts you tighten the bolts after you let the Jack down
You have to replace the other engine mounts there's like a torque arm there that keeps it from twisting it kind of sits in there and then one of them keeps it from twisting or two of them sits on two and two keep it from twisting
great vid..after much delay i finally did mines today..28.99 @ auto zone..feels much more rigid now.Wish they made prothane mounts or even inserts since these seem to go alot on these cars.any chance you remember the location of the pcv valve?
Ok...folks, I've just replaced all three, accept the one in the back...will work on it when have the time. Those two on the driver's side. One is called Transmission mount which it holds the transmission to the main frame. This is a pain on the butt. Space is very limited. The bottom one requires taking out the transaxle off before you have the space to install. The top (trans-mount) is easy by taking the some of the upper parts out first.
I did not have to remove any parts to replace left front trans-mount or/and rear left. When working on rear left you have to remove all nuts and bolts then slide out bracket first (mount is attached to) then you will be able to remove mount. Taking the transaxle off is not needed.
Thank you so much for posting this video! We have to replace the front passenger side motor mount on OUR 2001 Nissan Quest. Anything different that you know we'd have to do to fix the other side? Also, know anything about evaporator cores? We were told it will be $500-700 to replace ours because the front and rear air is blowing hot and they said that's what's wrong with it. I'd love for us to be able to do it ourselves. Thanks again!
i am having mine replaced tomorrow by a local shop...this is def above my ability...i knew mine were bad because when i am idling at a light the hood is shaking and i noticed that new cars dont do this
You have to replace the torque arm that keeps the engine from moving that one's worn out so the engine keeps twisting and ripping that one you have to replace the other motor mounts there's four of them
Yes you could do this on raps for sure. I just cannot get the ramps under the car. You will know when you are up high enough when the blots slide out easily. If you go up too high you will not be able to pull them out.
some engine mounts are filled with a type of oil to dampen the movement. it will give you your "oil" leak. this may not be your leak but its just a heads up
i think the main reason why they break is because most people do not use the parking brake. without engaging the parking brake pedal, shift to N to make sure the weight of the vehicle is being held by the rear drum brakes, then shift to P to relieve the stress from the engine/trans mounts. the weight of this minivan (it's close to 4000 lbs) puts stress on the parking pawl/ engine mounts if you just shift to P this also happened on my wife's Acura MDX & they're notorious for weakening/breaking
Might as well change the oil while it's up on jack stands. Unless the lower bolts were previously installed backwards, I had to remove the oil filter to get the back bolt out.
patmcroyne I replaced the front engine mount in my '99 Villager today and had the same issue. Went ahead and changed the oil 1000 miles ahead of schedule. This is actually one of the less painful fixes for this van. Replace knock sensor? Forget it. PCV valve? forget it. Belts? Forget it. The most "painful" part of the process was lining up the top bolt to get it to thread. But I got it done and saved at least a couple of Benjamins.
We have a 2002 Nissan Quest and it seems that when our mount gave out, it wasn't immediately clear what the problem was, and by the time we got it into the shop (I don't have all the tools) the wiring harness near the mount was sheared completely through like someone took scissors at it. Anyone have a similar problem, or even a web link that sheds light on the harness identification and repair information, what it connects to, etc? Thanks.
Are there better motor mounts than others? I have a 2002 Mercury Villager which is basically the same model as the Nissan Quest. I need to replace my motor mount.
hey my 2001 quest has that same hollow sound when running! Think it's the A/C compressor? LOL Don't need It anymore so it's going up for sale next week
You should always replace all 4 of them, and make then stronger with Sikaflex, they last 3 x more that way. This front one is very easy, but driver side rear is the worst. If you only change this passenger front, it will not last long, since other 3 needs to be replace too!! How do I know...., well, I do !!!!=))
CORRECT--as I have found out. Ive replaced it twice ignoring the other 3 nightmares--sure enough they all 4 have to be done sooner or later ANYWAY. Best to bit the bullet and do it. This latest one I put on after just replacing it a year earlier was toast IN ONE WEEK.
Would like to see a video or know how you kept Sikaflex from running out through the holes? And how much did it take for all 4? Or did you do just the front one? And how long does it take to cure? Also there are a number of different kinds. I found some construction adhesive I had. Wondering if that will work?
I ended up just buying some DAP brand construction/adhesive sealant at my local hardware store. Says 4 to 7 days to cure so I guess I will be waiting till next weekend to fix it.
How frustrating this could be? This is my 3rd time doing this. Can Nissan do something better than this? Oh, I have a 1997 Villager and had put in 100K miles since I got it. It's still running good...except...this.
The more research I do the more it appears that the other motor mounts are to blame for the failure of the front center mount. All are going to be replaced at once tomorrow.
I have a 2007 Nissan Quest, car shakes (motor) on when shift on drive, I doesn't when I start the car, only when the motor is hot or drive for about a mile, I replace 3 out of 4 motor mount but still the same problem..
No, I still have the problem, a mechanic said might the valve body, but is not 100% sure since nothing comes on the computer diagnostic,,,car run 100% , 100% perfance... car drives fine, but when I shift to park the to drive it Shakes. can help me Lazovideos@gmail.com
+Lazo VideosHD shaking engine with new mounts is an ignition problem resulting in compromised engine performance- whether a bad injector, bad plug, wire or otherwise corroded coil area (COP or dizzy), or vacuum leak.
Buy genuine factory replacement motor mounts. Most aftermarket mounts are junk. Another thing to do is improve on the design by filling in the voids of the motor mount with urethane window glass adhesive. Negligible increase in vibration and you will never replace the motor mount again. :-)
Would like to see a video or know how you kept urethane window glass adhesive from running out through the holes? And how much did it take for all 4? Or did you do just the front one? And how long did it take to cure?
I ended up just buying some DAP brand construction/adhesive sealant at my local hardware store. Says 4 to 7 days to cure so I guess I will be waiting till next weekend to fix it. Took just under one whole tube to fill all 4 motor mount spaces.
I have an old trick you may be able to use,I had cars of the 70's and when I broke a motor mount I would go to the hardware store and get a piece of 1/8"cable about a foot or so long and 2 cable clamps..if you can find a place near your motor mount on the frame then you can put your cable around where the mount is and around the place you will tie off to on the frame,pull the cable tight and clamp it off and you will never break another one,this should work with the broken mount also.good luck.
You know...today I took off the old mount
but I can't install the new one
in your video I learned how to put the new one by pushing up the engine
thaaaaaaaaanx alot
respect from Saudi Arabia
Amazed that the Oil Filter is so easy to access, a bit too easy - but none-the-less.
Good Video!
I saw your video its good u take time to show others.my mother has same quest and i have the complete schematic master service manual ,the one that certified auto service mechanics use at the nissan dealer ship use.well reason why your mounts are going bad quick is cuz your supossed to tourque them at 58 to 65 foots of lb after u remove the support jack off it and and lowered the vehichle off jack stands.thens is when u finalize the ft lbs of tourque on the engine mount through bolt .
Thanks for the video, it answered the questions I had and I did it today. 2 things I'd add, since this is a problem that is so common, if you buy the part at a place that has a lifetime guarantee, like Auto Zone, you won't have to pay for it twice, or three times. I just paid $30 for the mount, and it's got a lifetime guarantee. Second, attach the bolt through the bushing part of the mount, then though the frame, it's more difficult to do it the other way. Thanks again. Saved me $320!
Thanks for making this video! I was able to get all 4 mounts for $56 with shipping on ebay from a motor mount company in Florida and added Dap brand sealant/adhesive to fill in the spaces. Taking the whole support beam down wasn't that hard using a breaker bar and air ratchet and used my electric impact to remove the bolts for the beam. Sounds like doing all 4 at once is wise.
Just did mine today. It took nearly an hour to take it out, but only 20 min. to put it in...easy job. Keep in mine...jack the engine to align the top bolt...this will make the difference...I guarantee it.
Thank you so much for this video. I never would have been able to do this without your advice to jack up the engine. I had to use some wood as well to make the jack lift up the engine enough.
Furthermore, a creeper really helped me out on this project.
thank you very much indeed for the time you spent putting this video together, which has been very helpful and saved me money on repairs. I wish there were more people like you that share this type of information.
ive replaced that mount twice now in one year but there are 4 mounts. Not as easy to get at. If those are bad which they likely are its almost certain that the mount in this video is taking the full brunt of the engine and going bad over and over. Also Ive done this one twice--I jacked up under the oil pan and I really did not have the problems a couple other vehicles mentioned--possibly not identical setup . I did not have to remove the filter at all. I simply adjusted with the jack after loosing the bolts till I felt them go limp. Now I will replace all 4 no matter what it takes. One video shows simply taking off the cross member--and magically there are both mounts to replace after you take out the top bolts. I will use that method this time. Mine is 99 villager--3.3
Wow that engine mount was finished! I wish I could do what you are doing
Great video, thank you. I was just at the dealer this morning and they wanted about $350 to do this. Being mechanically inclined, your video makes me certain I can do this myself.
$350!!!
Thanks for the advice!! Everything went well except that these mounts I bought needed to be banged a little to fit. I did not torque down the top bolt to specs but the engine puts weight on it anyway. It was pretty tight. Should I go back and check? It is an old car and the mount should outlive the car. I really appreciate people like you doing videos. I am a HS teacher and coach and I am teaching all the time..you are really a teacher!!!Thankyou!!!
Just got finished mine today; Thank you, saved a lot of money.
A few notes after just doing the same. First and foremost, thank-you for this guide. Now... IF you have a 1999 Quest, you first get to drain the oil so you can remove the oil filter. Without removing that filter you will NEVER get the back lower bolt out. When the author said that he got out the "heavy artillery" I had to chuckle. So did I. I even ran it on about 10 lbs more pressure than it's max rating. Didn't budge the nuts, which, by the way, can NOT be gotten at properly with the pneumatic gun but have to be angled onto. Anyway, I had to use a wrench, hold on under the front bumper and use my leg muscles to break the two bottom loose. Also please note that on the inboard side the top fitting is NOT a nut, it is part of an assembly. The top one must be approached from the outboard side. Also if you are working with a 1999 Quest, if you bought the oil filter that is given by the manual at WalMart, you have purchased the WRONG one. It takes some dang thing smaller that I will go looking for tomorrow. Last (for now), when putting things back together, PUT THE TOP BOLT IN FIRST. You will be jacking the engine up, and if your front tires are on ramps, your driver's side front tire will come slightly up off the ramp just enough to scare you when you are trying to take the old mount out or fit the new one in. You will have to jockey the lifting of the engine around a bit to get the bolt alignment, not to mention use a large screwdriver as a pry bar. If you do the bottom bolts first you will never get the top to align. I guess they improved this as they years went on, even though the mounting flaw remained. As for wrench sizes, I found that I needed two sizes, a 14mm ad a 17mm (Oh, also some small non-memorable one for that metal plate you need to remove forward of the oil filter). Good luck-
Can you please clarify what you mean by inboard and outboard? You must be boat mechanic. I think in terms of passenger side, drivers side, front/back of engine.
Just bought a 1993 Quest for $700 bucks, drove it from Miami, Florida to Houston, Texas with no issues. Got her to Texas and a week later had a leaking freeze plug on the inside. Had to drop the rear engine mount and its pretty bad, might as well replace. Other then that car is pretty solid. Don't like Nissan or Ford but a great A to B car.
Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of filling them or figuring some way to make them more permanent.
Thank you for the video. I think I can pull it off now. I originally went in to have the transmission checked since it would slam into gear. Come to find out, it was slamming because of the lose motor mounts. What I don't is if the transmission slippage was caused by the lose motor mounts. I guess I will replace the motor mounts and see if it continues to slam and slip in the different gears. Thank you again! Very helpful and I appreciate the safety tips. Good luck telling your wife to slow down :-).
so did it continue ? I have the same issue.
Very good tips on safety, dude! Thank you for the video.
Helpful Video. Going to be doing this job in a couple days
@sikwitit765
That was done. I am not sure how that would make a difference. The mount tears its rubber, and is not the bolt.
i just had my timing belt, waterpump, drive belts, & plugs changed at a dealership & the mounts were still good on my vehicle; just because i use the parking brake pedal as noted earlier...
nicely running right now w/ cap/rotor/wires/filters going to be changed over the weekend. I'm going to keep it for up to another 10 years~ ford did good when they insisted to modify the heads to make these vehicles non-interference~ that was my main reason going with this 3.3L (non-interference on 3.0L too)
@almostswedish
It causes the engine to bang around in the bay and twist.
thanks,, very helpful video ,now i think am ready to tackle mines,i got front and back to replace,hope everything comes out sweet lol
You have to drop the engine down first onto it so it doesn't stretch the rubber and then you tighten the bolts you tighten the bolts after you let the Jack down
You have to replace the other engine mounts there's like a torque arm there that keeps it from twisting it kind of sits in there and then one of them keeps it from twisting or two of them sits on two and two keep it from twisting
great vid..after much delay i finally did mines today..28.99 @ auto zone..feels much more rigid now.Wish they made prothane mounts or even inserts since these seem to go alot on these cars.any chance you remember the location of the pcv valve?
Ok...folks, I've just replaced all three, accept the one in the back...will work on it when have the time. Those two on the driver's side. One is called Transmission mount which it holds the transmission to the main frame. This is a pain on the butt. Space is very limited. The bottom one requires taking out the transaxle off before you have the space to install. The top (trans-mount) is easy by taking the some of the upper parts out first.
I did not have to remove any parts to replace left front trans-mount or/and rear left. When working on rear left you have to remove all nuts and bolts then slide out bracket first (mount is attached to) then you will be able to remove mount. Taking the transaxle off is not needed.
Thank you so much for posting this video! We have to replace the front passenger side motor mount on OUR 2001 Nissan Quest. Anything different that you know we'd have to do to fix the other side? Also, know anything about evaporator cores? We were told it will be $500-700 to replace ours because the front and rear air is blowing hot and they said that's what's wrong with it. I'd love for us to be able to do it ourselves. Thanks again!
Excellent Video! You should start your own auto programs for TV.
i am having mine replaced tomorrow by a local shop...this is def above my ability...i knew mine were bad because when i am idling at a light the hood is shaking and i noticed that new cars dont do this
Excellent video thanx for video
Thanks for the video.
do i need to replace the rear mount as well. I ordered both because the mechanic told me i needed both!
I agree!
You have to replace the torque arm that keeps the engine from moving that one's worn out so the engine keeps twisting and ripping that one you have to replace the other motor mounts there's four of them
Yes you could do this on raps for sure. I just cannot get the ramps under the car. You will know when you are up high enough when the blots slide out easily. If you go up too high you will not be able to pull them out.
good instructions will follow to replace motor mount 98 nissan quest
do u still have the van. my wife's van tie rods keep having issues and the motor mounts and value cover leaking and the intake seal in bad.
Getting it done on my 1999 Villager (wannabe Quest) tomorrow. Understand what is going on now thank you.
some engine mounts are filled with a type of oil to dampen the movement. it will give you your "oil" leak. this may not be your leak but its just a heads up
You are suppose to do both engine mounts on the passenger side or the front one keeps breaking.
thanks for this video
I put a 2X4 across the oil pan. It worked ok.
thanks 4 sharing that with us....i have the same problem now thks 2 U i have an idea of wht it looks like ..
i think the main reason why they break is because most people do not use the parking brake. without engaging the parking brake pedal, shift to N to make sure the weight of the vehicle is being held by the rear drum brakes, then shift to P to relieve the stress from the engine/trans mounts. the weight of this minivan (it's close to 4000 lbs) puts stress on the parking pawl/ engine mounts if you just shift to P
this also happened on my wife's Acura MDX & they're notorious for weakening/breaking
good video thanks
Thanks!
Nice video
Gracias
Hey can you do this by driving the car up on ramps?
very perfecinal
I had a little piece of hard rubber that worked. A piece of wood will work too, just to not use the bare jack.
Might as well change the oil while it's up on jack stands. Unless the lower bolts were previously installed backwards, I had to remove the oil filter to get the back bolt out.
patmcroyne I replaced the front engine mount in my '99 Villager today and had the same issue. Went ahead and changed the oil 1000 miles ahead of schedule. This is actually one of the less painful fixes for this van. Replace knock sensor? Forget it. PCV valve? forget it. Belts? Forget it. The most "painful" part of the process was lining up the top bolt to get it to thread. But I got it done and saved at least a couple of Benjamins.
We have a 2002 Nissan Quest and it seems that when our mount gave out, it wasn't immediately clear what the problem was, and by the time we got it into the shop (I don't have all the tools) the wiring harness near the mount was sheared completely through like someone took scissors at it. Anyone have a similar problem, or even a web link that sheds light on the harness identification and repair information, what it connects to, etc? Thanks.
good job the way. idk if I should buya car that has this problem.owner probably runs with it like this with a heavy foot.
Are there better motor mounts than others? I have a 2002 Mercury Villager which is basically the same model as the Nissan Quest. I need to replace my motor mount.
Genuine factory parts are best, especially with these motor mounts. Autozone mounts are garbage.
hey my 2001 quest has that same hollow sound when running! Think it's the A/C compressor? LOL Don't need It anymore so it's going up for sale next week
How to remove the oil pan?
What is the torque spec?
I wonder how many mounts this van has. I know that I have to replace the front one but how do I know if there more mounts?
4 mounts
Theks
Great stuff! Think a 2006 is similar?
Nope. Completely different design.
@@itsJohnnyDill what about 97?
You should always replace all 4 of them, and make then stronger with Sikaflex, they last 3 x more that way. This front one is very easy, but driver side rear is the worst. If you only change this passenger front, it will not last long, since other 3 needs to be replace too!! How do I know...., well, I do !!!!=))
CORRECT--as I have found out. Ive replaced it twice ignoring the other 3 nightmares--sure enough they all 4 have to be done sooner or later ANYWAY. Best to bit the bullet and do it. This latest one I put on after just replacing it a year earlier was toast IN ONE WEEK.
Would like to see a video or know how you kept Sikaflex from running out through the holes? And how much did it take for all 4? Or did you do just the front one? And how long does it take to cure? Also there are a number of different kinds. I found some construction adhesive I had. Wondering if that will work?
I ended up just buying some DAP brand construction/adhesive sealant at my local hardware store. Says 4 to 7 days to cure so I guess I will be waiting till next weekend to fix it.
How to remove the oil pan
Always go back and check your torque after a few hundred miles.
Can somebody show me how to replace the motor mount on the rear left side of
a 1998 NISSAN Quest?
they need to make these mount stronger
rockauto.com has that motor mount for around $14.00.
+C 19 True
How frustrating this could be? This is my 3rd time doing this. Can Nissan do something better than this? Oh, I have a 1997 Villager and had put in 100K miles since I got it. It's still running good...except...this.
Does any one else know how to replace the other three...please share?
It frustrated me so much. We do not have the van any more.
You better get a original mount.
Has anybody figured out a permanent solution for this? I'm replacing mine for the second time in four months.
haha I don't know why but this made me smile, "new cars don't do this"
Polyurethane/window weld.
happens to all of them regardless of year- whether its dressed as a nissan or dressed as a mercury villager (aka a ford).
The more research I do the more it appears that the other motor mounts are to blame for the failure of the front center mount. All are going to be replaced at once tomorrow.
EXACTLY--I can attest to it. DONT JUST DO THE ONE--IF A PERSON DOES YOU ARE FOOLING YOURSELF
I have a 2007 Nissan Quest, car shakes (motor) on when shift on drive, I doesn't when I start the car, only when the motor is hot or drive for about a mile, I replace 3 out of 4 motor mount but still the same problem..
Lazo VideosHD Sounds like you have a miss..
FriscoBoater miss what??? this is first car ever,
I have taken to a couple mechanics already, the check with the computer, nothing comes on the diagnostic...inspection passed with no problems....
No, I still have the problem, a mechanic said might the valve body, but is not 100% sure since nothing comes on the computer diagnostic,,,car run 100% , 100% perfance...
car drives fine, but when I shift to park the to drive it Shakes. can help me Lazovideos@gmail.com
+Lazo VideosHD shaking engine with new mounts is an ignition problem resulting in compromised engine performance- whether a bad injector, bad plug, wire or otherwise corroded coil area (COP or dizzy), or vacuum leak.
Traduccion
i would say engine design mount error by Nissan
I'd say if u didn't buy cheap parts u would of only had 2 do the job once
That's just me
Buy genuine factory replacement motor mounts. Most aftermarket mounts are junk. Another thing to do is improve on the design by filling in the voids of the motor mount with urethane window glass adhesive. Negligible increase in vibration and you will never replace the motor mount again. :-)
Would like to see a video or know how you kept urethane window glass adhesive from running out through the holes? And how much did it take for all 4? Or did you do just the front one? And how long did it take to cure?
I ended up just buying some DAP brand construction/adhesive sealant at my local hardware store. Says 4 to 7 days to cure so I guess I will be waiting till next weekend to fix it. Took just under one whole tube to fill all 4 motor mount spaces.
Nope. We sold the van
I'll pass on this advice!
See nothing
Old hat
Obama's voice?
Thanks for the video.