Seen the woman in the first part of vid series. Figured probably your wife. YOU are one Lucky man having that helpful and supportive of a wife. Wish my wife was like that. Barely get her to go into the garage let alone turn wrenches. 😂🤦🏻♂️😂
This is by far the BEST video I’ve seen! Great job bro keep it going man!!! What’s the name of the tool you can use to uninstall and reinstall for the axles?
It’s definitely a bit daunting at first. For me, the fear of wiring stems from self doubt, it’s all mental. You just have to remember that it was working perfectly fine before it was taken apart. You just need to put the puzzle back together. Trusting yourself in the process and not allowing yourself to spiral deep into the “what if” rabbit hole is super important.
Can you tell us what materials (paint etc) you used to paint the interior of the car? How many coats were also applied? Thanks, looking forward to watching more building videos!
Awesome vids man keep up the good work. I have a question I want to paint my gutted civic and I saw the paint you used but can you tell me what materials you used for the prep work? Thanks
Prep work was pretty quick and dirty. The cage had a bit of surface rust on it from sitting for a few years so I hit that with some very fine sandpaper then finished it off with some rust removal jelly. Once the rust was cleared up I cleaned it off with a degreaser. I scuffed the rest of the interior with a scotch bright pad to give the paint something to bite into. Finished off with degreasing everything, then painted. Thanks for watching!
@@bvspeed Thank you. 95 Honda civic Ej1. I'm at the point to invest in a set of wheels for my build. (See my channel please) I have been having difficulty with size. Wells are rolled. I want to keep camber at the most 2.5⁰ - 3⁰ The build is 500+ and I need as much flat contact patch as possible. What size wheel and tire would you suggest for my build? I have lots of build experience but very little with Honda.
@@bvspeed Road course, roll racing. Absolutely no drag racing. Wilwood all the way around. The front brakes are huge. 6 piston, 12.1" vented and slotted hat rotors. I have no idea if a 15" rim would wit with the front brake calipers. I would really like to stay 15 if possible.
I’m guessing you have the Dynapro brake kit. I’ll link you to their wheel clearance diagram to help you select wheels. That kit should work with some 15’s, but the question is which ones...? The diameter of the inner barrel (drop center) should be your first concern, then the second should be the offset and spoke design of the wheels and whether or not they’ll clear the front of the caliper. A quick forum search yielded these results... Wheels that have been known to clear (Don’t take this as gospel): Volk CE28 15x7 +43 Kosei K1 15x7 +38 Volk TE37SL +30 Team Dynamics 15x7 FFD Motorsports 15x8 +20 If there are specs missing for a wheel, that’s because it was never included in their original post. Other than that, people have been successful using very large spacers lol. www.wilwood.com/Images/BrakeKits/WCD_Drawings/WCD_dwg-Large/ds637_wcd-lg.jpg
Are you leaving the rad support as a bolt on? If so do you think it will flex too much or what are you doing to keep it rigid? I'm on the fence to do this or not but worried about losing rigidity.
For now I’m going to leave it bolted on. I also have the front OE bumper bar assisting with rigidity, but I know it’s not ideal. I’d be curious to see how much flex is introduced because it’s not welded in. One of these days I’ll sit down and figure something out! Thanks for watching!
@bvspeed Great channel. I'm about to paint my interior ..trying to decide between tamco 2k urathane ( for cost ) or Por15 2k ..how much I think needed to cover eg striped interior w/ no cage ?
I haven’t heard of Tamco, but POR-15 has worked decently for me. I’d recommend to spray it if you have the proper equipment. It’s much easier and less time consuming than brushing. I purchased an entire gallon and I still have some left over from painting the entire interior and cage. You would probably be safe with half a gallon. Also, thanks for watching!
Thanks, Man! The paint brand is POR-15 and it’s more of an industrial type paint that’s super durable. I believe it’s their “light grey” color. You can brush it on as its self leveling, but you can also mix the right ratios in order to spray it too.
Liked your build setup bro, have noticed that you have the steering tie rod installed on top, is your car lower? Is the correct way should be at the bottom since your using the roll correction ball joint? (It will get the tierod closer to the frame being at the top)I'm building a civic for track also( trying to get more info). I have a lowered cd5 accord and hit a pothole and took me 2 tires (inboard tire had a abnormal worn) finally figured out that the right side tire nner tierod is bent due to rod was too close to the frame. Thanks
That’s a great question! I’ve been asked about the tie rod placement on more than one occasion, but this design is how Honed Developments intended. In this instance you have to think about the effects of the tie rod mounting point at the knuckle when more/excessive camber and castor is introduced. When you run more negative camber, that knuckle is tilting in toward the center of the car, thus lowering the attachment point of the outer tie rod. When more caster is added, the angle or tilt of the top of the knuckle moves farther back towards the rear of the car, resulting in lowering the attachment point of the outer tie rod even more. So in a static at rest instance with more negative camber and more caster, the mounting point of the outer tie rod on the knuckle is now lower. That’s why this tie rod is designed to raise that point back up to its normal height! Otherwise, these changes in camber and caster with normal or lower tie rod position will tend to induce excessive toe-in as the suspension compresses, because the tie rod has yet to reach its full extension of its swing. At least that’s what I understand, I’m no pro lol
That's awesome! What are you building and for what kind of racing? I'm using a can of compressed air turned upside-down. It works wonders! Thanks for watching!
@@bvspeed thanks for the reply, I'll have to pick some of that up. I'm building a 2000 civic EK with a fully built turbo D16Y8. Just going to have fun crusing the track and attempt to beat personal times etc. Nothing too fancy
That’s a sick valve cover color! Def a good look and a neat little change from the traditional red look!
Thanks! I gotta give it to my guy, Charlie Moua in Minnesota. He's been producing some really good work.
Seen the woman in the first part of vid series. Figured probably your wife. YOU are one Lucky man having that helpful and supportive of a wife. Wish my wife was like that. Barely get her to go into the garage let alone turn wrenches. 😂🤦🏻♂️😂
Yes, that’s the girlfriend. Very supportive she is!
This is by far the BEST video I’ve seen! Great job bro keep it going man!!!
What’s the name of the tool you can use to uninstall and reinstall for the axles?
Thank you! Just Google “cv joint puller” and some options should pop up.
Gorgeous hatch, just found the channel and I’m loving the build
Thank you!
What part of Texas y’all from??? Would love to see y’all at a track event one day!
I’m actually in Chicago!
Wish you were still doing the Ecu
Yeah, I’d love to but unfortunately my work schedule is far too busy to allow me to do it. Thanks for following along!
This is where I loose the confidence...the wiring, great vid I’m enjoying all the of them thanks
It’s definitely a bit daunting at first. For me, the fear of wiring stems from self doubt, it’s all mental. You just have to remember that it was working perfectly fine before it was taken apart. You just need to put the puzzle back together. Trusting yourself in the process and not allowing yourself to spiral deep into the “what if” rabbit hole is super important.
@@bvspeed commenting a bit late but it's encouraging seeing that even somebody as knowledgeable as you know the mental struggle sometimes.
Can you tell us what materials (paint etc) you used to paint the interior of the car? How many coats were also applied? Thanks, looking forward to watching more building videos!
I used POR-15, in the light gray color. Only one thick coat after scuffing the paint down and degreasing it. Thanks for watching!
@@bvspeed what was used to decreasing it and would a 320 grit sand paper be good enough?
All I used was a scotch brite pad!
@@bvspeed thank you kindly 🙏🏼
Parts list please, links if possible
Awesome vids man keep up the good work. I have a question I want to paint my gutted civic and I saw the paint you used but can you tell me what materials you used for the prep work? Thanks
Prep work was pretty quick and dirty. The cage had a bit of surface rust on it from sitting for a few years so I hit that with some very fine sandpaper then finished it off with some rust removal jelly. Once the rust was cleared up I cleaned it off with a degreaser. I scuffed the rest of the interior with a scotch bright pad to give the paint something to bite into. Finished off with degreasing everything, then painted. Thanks for watching!
What size wheels and offset are you running on the black eg
15x8 +35
@@bvspeed Thank you. 95 Honda civic Ej1. I'm at the point to invest in a set of wheels for my build. (See my channel please) I have been having difficulty with size. Wells are rolled. I want to keep camber at the most 2.5⁰ - 3⁰ The build is 500+ and I need as much flat contact patch as possible. What size wheel and tire would you suggest for my build? I have lots of build experience but very little with Honda.
What type of driving/events are you planning to do with the car? Drag, HPDE, Autox?
@@bvspeed Road course, roll racing. Absolutely no drag racing. Wilwood all the way around. The front brakes are huge. 6 piston, 12.1" vented and slotted hat rotors. I have no idea if a 15" rim would wit with the front brake calipers. I would really like to stay 15 if possible.
I’m guessing you have the Dynapro brake kit. I’ll link you to their wheel clearance diagram to help you select wheels. That kit should work with some 15’s, but the question is which ones...? The diameter of the inner barrel (drop center) should be your first concern, then the second should be the offset and spoke design of the wheels and whether or not they’ll clear the front of the caliper. A quick forum search yielded these results...
Wheels that have been known to clear (Don’t take this as gospel):
Volk CE28 15x7 +43
Kosei K1 15x7 +38
Volk TE37SL +30
Team Dynamics 15x7
FFD Motorsports 15x8 +20
If there are specs missing for a wheel, that’s because it was never included in their original post. Other than that, people have been successful using very large spacers lol.
www.wilwood.com/Images/BrakeKits/WCD_Drawings/WCD_dwg-Large/ds637_wcd-lg.jpg
Are you leaving the rad support as a bolt on? If so do you think it will flex too much or what are you doing to keep it rigid?
I'm on the fence to do this or not but worried about losing rigidity.
For now I’m going to leave it bolted on. I also have the front OE bumper bar assisting with rigidity, but I know it’s not ideal. I’d be curious to see how much flex is introduced because it’s not welded in. One of these days I’ll sit down and figure something out! Thanks for watching!
@bvspeed Great channel. I'm about to paint my interior ..trying to decide between tamco 2k urathane ( for cost ) or Por15 2k ..how much I think needed to cover eg striped interior w/ no cage ?
I haven’t heard of Tamco, but POR-15 has worked decently for me. I’d recommend to spray it if you have the proper equipment. It’s much easier and less time consuming than brushing. I purchased an entire gallon and I still have some left over from painting the entire interior and cage. You would probably be safe with half a gallon. Also, thanks for watching!
You installed a used crank pulley damper?
Yes. I reinstalled the crank pulley that came on this engine.
@@bvspeed oh, ok. I see. Found your channel a month ago. The content is great. Your experience shows. You put together some great builds my friend.
Thank you!
Car is looking great, love that paint on the inside. If you dont mind sharing, what brand paint and color is that.
Thanks, Man! The paint brand is POR-15 and it’s more of an industrial type paint that’s super durable. I believe it’s their “light grey” color. You can brush it on as its self leveling, but you can also mix the right ratios in order to spray it too.
@@bvspeed awesome man thank you, where can i find the paint
M.A.R. Fishing Right from the source. POR-15.
@@bvspeed ok cool
@@bvspeed need more videos bro lol
Liked your build setup bro, have noticed that you have the steering tie rod installed on top, is your car lower? Is the correct way should be at the bottom since your using the roll correction ball joint? (It will get the tierod closer to the frame being at the top)I'm building a civic for track also( trying to get more info). I have a lowered cd5 accord and hit a pothole and took me 2 tires (inboard tire had a abnormal worn) finally figured out that the right side tire nner tierod is bent due to rod was too close to the frame. Thanks
That’s a great question! I’ve been asked about the tie rod placement on more than one occasion, but this design is how Honed Developments intended. In this instance you have to think about the effects of the tie rod mounting point at the knuckle when more/excessive camber and castor is introduced. When you run more negative camber, that knuckle is tilting in toward the center of the car, thus lowering the attachment point of the outer tie rod. When more caster is added, the angle or tilt of the top of the knuckle moves farther back towards the rear of the car, resulting in lowering the attachment point of the outer tie rod even more. So in a static at rest instance with more negative camber and more caster, the mounting point of the outer tie rod on the knuckle is now lower. That’s why this tie rod is designed to raise that point back up to its normal height! Otherwise, these changes in camber and caster with normal or lower tie rod position will tend to induce excessive toe-in as the suspension compresses, because the tie rod has yet to reach its full extension of its swing. At least that’s what I understand, I’m no pro lol
Hey man, I'm also building a track car civic, whats that stuff you used at 14:22? Cool video !
That's awesome! What are you building and for what kind of racing? I'm using a can of compressed air turned upside-down. It works wonders! Thanks for watching!
@@bvspeed thanks for the reply, I'll have to pick some of that up. I'm building a 2000 civic EK with a fully built turbo D16Y8. Just going to have fun crusing the track and attempt to beat personal times etc. Nothing too fancy
That’s great to hear! Have fun with the journey, it’s long a tough but so rewarding.
I want to swap my d15 engine but idk what tf in doing and i broke af lol..
Gotta save that money! Lol
Why B series instead of K?
Because $$$ lol
Here because of Facebook.
Much appreciated!
Just needs some spit and it’ll start right up lol
Some spit and a couple of chants.