This looks to be a 2:1 4th order BP, where the vented part is 2 times larger than the sealed. In BP4 the sealed section determines the low output, so you might wanna ask your guy, since I understood that you didn't do your calculations. Volume of driver seems to have been taken into account and I would also put the magnet in the vented section due to cooling. BP4s are usually best in bandwidth range in 1:1 size chambers, considering all other internal volume subtractions, I would have put at least a pine wood brace in the vented section at 90 degrees, maybe think of a way to service the sub, and stuffed the closed section with acoustic material. 3/4" stock is the minimum for something like this, I wouldn't go any thinner even for a 10". You said 1/2 inch, but I guess you corrected. If same footprint, keep in mind you lost in terms of volume, due to stock thickness, compared with the drawing, unless explicitly mentioned. When designing car audio stuff, usually I will ask for external max dimensions, then work out possible solutions with all internal subtractions considered. All in all a good starter box. BP4s are like a jack of all trades where space isn't that much important.
We’ll put and this box was designed for a bmf sub and the lid was removable. This was just a quick put together to have some bass. I sold my other setup 15” in American bass in a custom box built for the sub and it hit pretty hard. I just couldn’t go without some bass so I threw this together for way cheap lol
I remember these days just trying to get a box built with whatever you have for wood and tools . Definitely would look into buying a cheap ass jig saw on Amazon. Also maybe some sound deadening to help the rattling
I had a 1” msg box and a 15” I built and sound deadening my whole Lexus is300 with a 240 amp alternator. Now my boy has it and all I want is a little bass. The whole burb rattled anyways with no carpet or cats. It’s my off-roading rig I beat the shot out off.
Funny you say that I'm actually building a 4th order for 2 Pioneer 6.5s I had pulled out of a junk home theater in a box system... my parents had the same system and gave me the subwoofer from theirs so I pulled it out and had a pair of identical woofers.. now I'm designing a box with all these broken-down old bookcases, and a computer desk. Only problem is it's laminated particle board. A little bit tricky getting wood glue to stick
ive been building boxes since the late 80's here in tx home depot only carries like 5 or 7 ply birch and i just can not bring my self to buy it,i say i am then i go up there and stand there and look at the voids and shit and i walk out with heavy ass mdf,every time,haha oh well.i guess i could go find a specialty wood company,umm even mccoys didnt carry 13 ply,your the man using plywood haha.
I think the method you used to cut the subwoofer mount hole was brilliant.I never thought of that but I will be using that method from now lol. But how did you draw the circle?
Thanks and for drawing the circle I placed the sub face down on the baffle traced the outside and holes. Than measure the outside ring on sub to inside ring to get the center. I believe mine was 1/2 to 2/4 inch
Dont you get more output if the woofer was face out instead if magnet out? The basket and magnet assy. obstructs dont it? Or is there no difference? Also, since the sub is backwards do you wire it backwards too?
I have a van ,and I have room for this box what are the measurements so I can build one please? I subscribed and liked the video just need measurements
I have a 12-in Walmart power acoustic in my Jeep Cherokee I built a fourth order box and I put the amp that you're supposed to get with it at Walmart bridge to 2 ohms I blew my back passenger window out yesterday I was testing different hurts and I got it to 32 Hertz and then my back window blew out I should have rolled my front windows down but I wasn't thinking it would do that the fourth order box made that Walmart speaker sound incredible dude people don't believe me that I got it at Walmart and that it is a power acoustic I can't show them because I have to take the box apart so I carry the speaker box that the speaker came in to prove to people what I have
With how I did mine I’ll have to cut the box to get the sub out however when I do a box out of birch or mdf I’ll make the sealed portion removable to access the sub. I just threw this together to test the plywood out and see how long it would last and I still have had no issues with the plywood for now
@@str8burbn question.. which build would you do a wall or 4th order in the trailblazer...I'm trying to learn how to build something myself for once...I like a c pillar wall ....I heard a c pillar wall with 2 sundown 15s before..but never heard a 4th order in person..
I would personally get your dimensions of space your going to use and subwoofer specs and have a box designed for your space and subwoofers than build it yourself I went with Jasonjonessubwoofersolutions he’s awesome and well priced.
Good work! I have extensive experience in construction BP 4th and will give you some friendly advice. Sealed chamber must be smaller. Choice simulation for each speaker as sealed box. The volume should be such that give xmax at doubled nominal power. For better result, as posible, use a birch plywood 3/4 inch. All internal "squares" are stiffer than outer cover. Optimal port area is 2/3 Sd. Divide the port in half with a vertical partition (rigidity and increased self-resonance of the port). Tuning frequency 48Hz -3dB. Do not symetrycal or flat response in simulation, the left edge must be higher. And you probably know that with such an installation the polarity will be reversed. All the best!
You got it wrong! first you brush your teeth while thinking of dinosaurs but my dad left as a kid when Titanic sailed Columbus did not discover Columbia Albert Einstein EMC came before run DMC but e40 told me when to go 😂
Plywood is basically same thing as “BIRCH” the only difference is with “BIRCH” you have 1 thin ply of the “BIRCH” stuff stacked onto some 12 sheet plywood once you take it apart other wise your just buying plywood like what’s in this video... I would double up on the speaker deck just for the pressure with some good supports... nice build I always try to be resourceful too and save some money and make some space 👍🏽
You're correct about the birch but baltic birch is completely different from normal birch plywood. Plywood and normal birch plywood are usually 5 layers of a soft wood like pine. Baltic birch is 13 layers of pure birch which is a hard wood. The layers are a lot more dense and strong.
If only there was a 4th order box for 1 10 inch subwoofer that you got in my dodge charger that would dominate my trunk space because I still need access to my trunk...... 😞😞
@@str8burbn how did you get the dimensions for this box you built? i want to build this same box for a 10 inch speaker. can you posibly find or tell me the dimensions for a 10 in bandpass box please??
I paid a guy to get these dimensions for a specific subwoofer I had. It sounded awesome so I built another one for my boys car with a cheap sub and it sounded just as good I’ll do a setup video with my dimensions.
I had a guy design the box and paid him for the design for a different sub. It’s too technical dealing with box rise and other stuff. I just built the same box and threw a cheap sub in it and it sounds way good so I’m running it.
Jason Jones subwoofer solutions designed the box for me. If you get on their website they can’t draw up a design and you build it yourself. They just need the space your working with and the sub your using.
Tsp's plugged into a box design program. Proper 4th orders will always have a larger sealed side than ported side. Reversing that creates a high gain peaky enclosure for more output but terrible bandwidth and sub-par sound quality. Accurate tsp's are needed or the plotted bandwidth and gain will not match the programs plot.
@@str8burbn That's what I keep trying to say to people,no dats,no parameters for that sub,sub is there wood is there does it mean no project? You can build it with a different subs parameters one that's more or less the same it's the box that your after and the box will force the sub to play what the box can do anyway. I know people would criticize and say I'm a one box many subs guy but if you really look at it it's true those prefab boxes go through multiple subs and funny thing is they play almost the same only difference would be one sub will have more pressure than the other on the box. Big up to man who designed normally people are fussy about designing without parameters and in general if a guy knows what his doing that box for 90% of the time will sound great so big up to that dude. Also very nice build on the 4th love seeing these types of vids use what you've got and make a dream become a reality it's not always fancy places or big builds that matter also these types of build matter a lot in my opinion makes the next person feel he can also achieve.
Actually a pretty good build, and amazing you can cut that straight with a sawzall!
Thanks and it’s not that straight I had to use a lot of wood glue lol
Wow that sounds awesome!!!
Thanks i learned from your video
This looks to be a 2:1 4th order BP, where the vented part is 2 times larger than the sealed. In BP4 the sealed section determines the low output, so you might wanna ask your guy, since I understood that you didn't do your calculations. Volume of driver seems to have been taken into account and I would also put the magnet in the vented section due to cooling. BP4s are usually best in bandwidth range in 1:1 size chambers, considering all other internal volume subtractions, I would have put at least a pine wood brace in the vented section at 90 degrees, maybe think of a way to service the sub, and stuffed the closed section with acoustic material. 3/4" stock is the minimum for something like this, I wouldn't go any thinner even for a 10". You said 1/2 inch, but I guess you corrected. If same footprint, keep in mind you lost in terms of volume, due to stock thickness, compared with the drawing, unless explicitly mentioned. When designing car audio stuff, usually I will ask for external max dimensions, then work out possible solutions with all internal subtractions considered. All in all a good starter box. BP4s are like a jack of all trades where space isn't that much important.
We’ll put and this box was designed for a bmf sub and the lid was removable. This was just a quick put together to have some bass. I sold my other setup 15” in American bass in a custom box built for the sub and it hit pretty hard. I just couldn’t go without some bass so I threw this together for way cheap lol
Damn, I'm actually impressed!!! Good shit dude!!
Cheap and sounds way good
That's the best single 4th order bandpass design I've ever recommended, if it's ported properly it will hit hard with most DVC 12's.
When it comes to design and setting up systems your the legend
@@str8burbn 😭😭😭 I love you man 👊👊
Love ya too brotha 💯
do you think the same dzine for my 15 MOJO in 2door tahoe?
I’d try it
Good work👍🏾
Great job
I remember these days just trying to get a box built with whatever you have for wood and tools . Definitely would look into buying a cheap ass jig saw on Amazon. Also maybe some sound deadening to help the rattling
I had a 1” msg box and a 15” I built and sound deadening my whole Lexus is300 with a 240 amp alternator. Now my boy has it and all I want is a little bass. The whole burb rattled anyways with no carpet or cats. It’s my off-roading rig I beat the shot out off.
Funny you say that I'm actually building a 4th order for 2 Pioneer 6.5s I had pulled out of a junk home theater in a box system... my parents had the same system and gave me the subwoofer from theirs so I pulled it out and had a pair of identical woofers.. now I'm designing a box with all these broken-down old bookcases, and a computer desk. Only problem is it's laminated particle board. A little bit tricky getting wood glue to stick
I’d like to build a box to go under my seat of the f350 I’m there thinking 6 6.5s I’ve seen Steve Meade do it so I might try and replicate it
I like it. I may try one day
It sounds way good
ive been building boxes since the late 80's here in tx home depot only carries like 5 or 7 ply birch and i just can not bring my self to buy it,i say i am then i go up there and stand there and look at the voids and shit and i walk out with heavy ass mdf,every time,haha oh well.i guess i could go find a specialty wood company,umm even mccoys didnt carry 13 ply,your the man using plywood haha.
Waow.......i like it....
It’s cheap and sounds awesome
Nice job.
Thanks
What are the measurements for the 4th order box
Awesome!!! Nice job Robbie!!
It’s not crazy like my 15” sub was but at least I have good bass
Love it bro
Any advice I'm building a 6th order with round ports I have no idea on tuning so I guess I'm gonna slide ports in and out til it sounds good idk .
I’m not good at all with tuning I paid a guy who builds boxes for a design and built it.
@@str8burbn can I get that guys number lol
I think the method you used to cut the subwoofer mount hole was brilliant.I never thought of that but I will be using that method from now lol. But how did you draw the circle?
Thanks and for drawing the circle I placed the sub face down on the baffle traced the outside and holes. Than measure the outside ring on sub to inside ring to get the center. I believe mine was 1/2 to 2/4 inch
just don't use a Sawzall use a circle jig or a router
Lol I agree 💯
sir if 8 ohms and 4 ohms connect each other in parallel connection what is the output impedance? i wish that you can see my comment.... thank you...
I believe you would have to wire the 8 ohm down to 4ohm than run parallel with the other 4 ohm I don’t mix different subs though.
Dont you get more output if the woofer was face out instead if magnet out? The basket and magnet assy. obstructs dont it? Or is there no difference? Also, since the sub is backwards do you wire it backwards too?
The motor is towards the port which helps keep it cool and it’s wired normal as well. As for how it hits it would hit the same either way.
@@str8burbn ahh, ok. Thanks😁👍
This box is designed to have the motor on the port side though.
@@str8burbn cool.
Where can I get a diagram for a bandpass for 2 skar 10" dual voice could 4 ohm
Get on jasonjonessubwoofersolutions and he’ll design a box specific to your subs and space available in your car it’s well worth it.
I have a van ,and I have room for this box what are the measurements so I can build one please? I subscribed and liked the video just need measurements
I would have to measure it again. If you do a 15” sub I do have measurements for it.
Yes sir thank you.i build on just like it but it out side in man cave..tv.
Hell yeah gotta have the bump in the man cave
I have a 12-in Walmart power acoustic in my Jeep Cherokee I built a fourth order box and I put the amp that you're supposed to get with it at Walmart bridge to 2 ohms I blew my back passenger window out yesterday I was testing different hurts and I got it to 32 Hertz and then my back window blew out I should have rolled my front windows down but I wasn't thinking it would do that the fourth order box made that Walmart speaker sound incredible dude people don't believe me that I got it at Walmart and that it is a power acoustic I can't show them because I have to take the box apart so I carry the speaker box that the speaker came in to prove to people what I have
4th order boxes are amazing
what were the dimensions, i have the same sub. i was thinking about putting it in a 6th order. large chamber tuned to 25 smaller chamber tuned to 50.
When a 4th order blows a sub will it damage the box replacing it?
With how I did mine I’ll have to cut the box to get the sub out however when I do a box out of birch or mdf I’ll make the sealed portion removable to access the sub. I just threw this together to test the plywood out and see how long it would last and I still have had no issues with the plywood for now
First time building a 4th order box I need the measurements if you don't mind.
What are the measurements
That's gangster as fuck using a sawzall and actually getting a square box. Nice work dude.
😂 thanks
Hi... nice box...I'm trying to build a 4th order box for 2 skar evl 15 in a Chevy trailblazer...
That’s going to a huge box
@@str8burbn question.. which build would you do a wall or 4th order in the trailblazer...I'm trying to learn how to build something myself for once...I like a c pillar wall ....I heard a c pillar wall with 2 sundown 15s before..but never heard a 4th order in person..
I would personally get your dimensions of space your going to use and subwoofer specs and have a box designed for your space and subwoofers than build it yourself I went with Jasonjonessubwoofersolutions he’s awesome and well priced.
Good work! I have extensive experience in construction BP 4th and will give you some friendly advice. Sealed chamber must be smaller. Choice simulation for each speaker as sealed box. The volume should be such that give xmax at doubled nominal power. For better result, as posible, use a birch plywood 3/4 inch. All internal "squares" are stiffer than outer cover. Optimal port area is 2/3 Sd. Divide the port in half with a vertical partition (rigidity and increased self-resonance of the port). Tuning frequency 48Hz -3dB. Do not symetrycal or flat response in simulation, the left edge must be higher. And you probably know that with such an installation the polarity will be reversed. All the best!
You got it wrong! first you brush your teeth while thinking of dinosaurs but my dad left as a kid when Titanic sailed Columbus did not discover Columbia Albert Einstein EMC came before run DMC but e40 told me when to go 😂
@@petertowers9579 Sorry, I have knowledge, but I don't speak English very well
What specs do you have on your subwoofer?
It’s a 12” Orion that’s been built with better coils
You can use 3/4 plywood as long as it’s got adense core
Plywood is basically same thing as “BIRCH” the only difference is with “BIRCH” you have 1 thin ply of the “BIRCH” stuff stacked onto some 12 sheet plywood once you take it apart other wise your just buying plywood like what’s in this video... I would double up on the speaker deck just for the pressure with some good supports... nice build I always try to be resourceful too and save some money and make some space 👍🏽
Thanks appreciate it
You're correct about the birch but baltic birch is completely different from normal birch plywood. Plywood and normal birch plywood are usually 5 layers of a soft wood like pine. Baltic birch is 13 layers of pure birch which is a hard wood. The layers are a lot more dense and strong.
@@stevofla239 thank you.. I did not know that I’ll look out for some Baltic birch now...
If only there was a 4th order box for 1 10 inch subwoofer that you got in my dodge charger that would dominate my trunk space because I still need access to my trunk......
😞😞
Nice! How about a setup video in the suburban?
Yeah I’ll do a video on how I set it up
@@str8burbn how did you get the dimensions for this box you built? i want to build this same box for a 10 inch speaker. can you posibly find or tell me the dimensions for a 10 in bandpass box please??
ive tried for days to find dimension for any 10 in bandpass box an i cant find any. its been super annoying that cant find any dimensions.lol
I paid a guy to get these dimensions for a specific subwoofer I had. It sounded awesome so I built another one for my boys car with a cheap sub and it sounded just as good I’ll do a setup video with my dimensions.
How do you determine the box specs for your sub when building a 4th order?
I had a guy design the box and paid him for the design for a different sub. It’s too technical dealing with box rise and other stuff. I just built the same box and threw a cheap sub in it and it sounds way good so I’m running it.
Jason Jones subwoofer solutions designed the box for me. If you get on their website they can’t draw up a design and you build it yourself. They just need the space your working with and the sub your using.
Tsp's plugged into a box design program. Proper 4th orders will always have a larger sealed side than ported side. Reversing that creates a high gain peaky enclosure for more output but terrible bandwidth and sub-par sound quality.
Accurate tsp's are needed or the plotted bandwidth and gain will not match the programs plot.
@@str8burbn That's what I keep trying to say to people,no dats,no parameters for that sub,sub is there wood is there does it mean no project?
You can build it with a different subs parameters one that's more or less the same it's the box that your after and the box will force the sub to play what the box can do anyway.
I know people would criticize and say I'm a one box many subs guy but if you really look at it it's true those prefab boxes go through multiple subs and funny thing is they play almost the same only difference would be one sub will have more pressure than the other on the box.
Big up to man who designed normally people are fussy about designing without parameters and in general if a guy knows what his doing that box for 90% of the time will sound great so big up to that dude.
Also very nice build on the 4th love seeing these types of vids use what you've got and make a dream become a reality it's not always fancy places or big builds that matter also these types of build matter a lot in my opinion makes the next person feel he can also achieve.
Thanks appreciate it and does sound amazing a lot of people are surprised 😆
Sounds like a stew pot full of forks being beat with a hammer to me
Yup that’s all my recovery gear and tools in the back
@@str8burbn all the crap we carry with us makes all kind of noise
Yeah for sure lol
is this still together after 2 years?
Yes it is
with the thumbnail I saw if I had to retreat this speaker box I would add a speaker radiator.
4th order bandpass
Specs and dimensions ?
I’ll need to get the specs for the box
@@str8burbn it for a 12? I'd like to build one like it for my car if you dont mind. Looks like it should fit well.
Yeah it’s for a 12” and it sounds good and hits pretty hard
@@str8burbn if you can get specs I'd really appreciate it sir
@@str8burbn I built one for 2 6.5s and sounded amazing. And id like to try one for a 12
I don't know where you're getting this idea plywood doesn't make good subwoofer box they make the best
Always been told they will fall apart but it’s still going strong
Sawzall pro
😂 I guess
Should have put subwoofer magnet in sealed portion ? of the box so front of sub is pointed at the vent sounds way better way less motor noise
🤮🤮
Not gonna lie.. stopped watching when you used totes as saw horses and a recip saw.. box building needs precision cuts to achieve air tight seems..
By far it’s not perfect and am no professional by all means, but sure sounds good and hits hard.
What are the measurements