4th Order VS 6th Order subwoofer Enclosures
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- In this video I talk about 4th and 6th order bandpass subwoofer enclosures, how they work, and provide information to help you decide which one to build.
TIMESTAMPS FOR THE IMPATIENT
4th Orders: 3:57
6th Orders: 6:59
Similarities: 11:13
Conclusion: 14:02
5th Order Video (watch from timestamp):
• 5 Enclosures You've Ne...
I think I understand 4th and 6th order but my woofers are haven't arrived yet so I would classify them as "still on order".
Second order is when you blow the first pair ,6th order they decide for you that just not your game and block your #. Bear with me it's 4am lol
😂😂😂
So glad you included the graphs! Love the data to back up the theory
I made a 16x subs band pass wall that I used for large outdoor events, it was the only thing that could evenly produce loud subsonic frequencies outdoors. This was before computer software calculations, all ear-tuned using oscilloscope, playing frequency by frequency 10hz all the way to 120hz, a lot of time real life tuning and AMAZING results. I started with 4th order then moved on to 6th order in series and parallel. 6th order is by far the BEST, most powerful and trickier design but computer software helps a lot nowadays. I had my subs tuned rear 22hz front 45hz and it was a MONSTER in subsonic frequencies, could barely hear over 80hz but I had other full-range speakers with woofers covering from that above. Also I could pump 3x the rates power without exploding the subs as the cone displacement is controlled by the port’s limits.
awesome, it's funny to see how just recently companies have started making 6th order PA subs, true innovation starts with people
Well if your subs are as powerful as your electric bikes then I've gotta hear a video of that with a good mic.
@@Dakoustics Bose have been using 6th order for years.
Acoustimass had like a 4th order firing into a 6h order lol #Bose
Oh and thank you for exposing for others about inefficient designs and tuning build heat wish causes catastrophic failure due to coil heat. I've been there. And taught myself
Bandpass subs are known to be bad because of bad designs and lack of understanding from the user.
Check out the "STM S118 SUB" it is a pro audio bandpass sub intended for most demanding concerts and festivals. When bandpass subs are designed by professionals and used by engineers, bandpass designs are very powerful and accurate desings.
Ole Kristian Rannekleiv c
great video! very informative and really helped breakdown the differences.
Hey man I appreciate this video's explication of the 4 th order & 6 th order keep the good video coming.
Just in case you missed this:
Audio Dynamics SoundVlog - Counting Enclosure Orders - ua-cam.com/video/41hDRYpZMME/v-deo.html
5 Enclosures You've Never Heard Of - ua-cam.com/video/CZaRQT3Rvaw/v-deo.html
Everything stepper than -6dB/octave sounds like a single elephant in spring. It's good to break a glass, but not to listen to some music.
one of the most interesting videos i ve ever seen !!!
Your videos are great-the best !!! Thank you for sharing your Knowledge.
Glad I could be of service, enjoy!
Tline box for the win!
position of a box inside a vehicle adds to the ratio which i never find anyone seems to know about.
ex: speakers in a trunk try positioning the speakers towards the back horizontal about 6 inches away from the back vs turned around to the front.
+Dakchen Games @Dakchen Games I actually have a 6th order parallel bandpass with a Sundown Audio Ev2-12 which is really good for a hi fi or home cinema set up the motor design is really good you don’t have to worry about the voice coil bottoming out
Which is good for a person to buy a 1st subwoofer and dose not have to worry about the power used because of the non bottoming out and the subwoofer is underrated it’s raited at 500wrns put it been getting 750wrms clean power don’t worry Brian chamberlain told me it’s ok to run it at 750wrms just don’t go much above 750wrms
The enclosure top end has 75.5L and tuned at 50hz and bottom end has 50L and tuned at 26hz
I’m running the subwoofer with a INuke 1000DSP with a WRMS limit to 760WRMS
Bridge it also has active crossover at 80hz
And a active EQ set from 90hz to 10hz on a 18db bandpass roll off why 90hz because of the deeper roll off I wanted the 80hz louder compared to the EQ set at 80hz the 10hz rolls off to around 5hz at the bottom of the curve
I hear the beams in the roof vibrate at around 30hz and so does my next doors windows lol
It’s really good to listen to music with it even better watching movies I’ve owned subwoofers before but nothing like this.
Just built a 6th order bandpass i just notice its canceling lower frquencies then i try to sealed one port and i like the sound much more fuller sounds but still it have a downside when i play higher beats i cannot feel any impact the punchy hard bass
Understanding the driver's ts parameters,and what the values affect determines the direction in Wich is "best" for your application,there's allot misunderstood in the box decision for all speakers, I prefer to use speakers with high q values qtc qts etc, in a sixthorder bandpass, The bandwidth gain is phenomenal when designed correctly,and if you run them isobaric loaded, they can use a smaller enclosure
Dont get fooled by the real life efficiency compared to the specified efficiencies. My 15" 1000w rms 88db efficient 3inch voicecoil sub is more efficient at 400watts than my 93db efficient 400w rms 12" pioneer, ALOT more bass, if I had to judge on my ears, 3-4times more. So only if you listen at low levels its better to get a high efficiency sub if all other parameters are the same.
Bro your content is so informative that I feel very dom 😂😂
And that's what I call an informative video!
often a builder has to experiment in different designs, computer analysis doesn't always predict the sonic sound quality, each driver will perform differently than what a computer tells the builder where its going to play in various frequencies and music playback
Thank you for making this video
I like your video, wish you would do more multi- sub videos, they are always hard to predict because of cancellations of the waves 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have 4th, and happy.
Starting my journey into audio. What kind of classes would I look at to begin learning this stuff? Open to books worth reading but I have a hard time doing strictly online learning. I do better in person. Audio engineering is such a broad term. Is there anywhere to take courses to learn this?
Solid video, helped a lot. Thanks!👌
So, I was a my first Bass show (idk what they're called). A guy had a box that he said was switchable from 2,4 and 6th order box with PVC pipe and some ball valves. The ball valves let him switch between them. How does one design something like that?
I got a sketch for a Series 6th Order enclosure… I noticed it had a port within the box, kinda interesting…
Hi, amazing information.
Can you please suggest me the best ratio for 4th order bandpass, and the best 10 in subwoofer for 4th order bandpass, please reply.
I had a prefab jl pro with a 8w7
Not sure if 6th or 4 th
But it was impressive
In 4th order. Is there any difference in output on which side of the speaker is in the sealed chamber? I see some they install the speaker the magnets out.
On a 4th order which part of the subwoofer goes into the sealed chamber, the cone or the magnet part? Does it matter? What is the difference?
I'd personally put the cone in the sealed part, unless the motor makes a ton of chuffing
It’s best to have motor in the ported side. This helps with motor cooling as well as you being able to smell the coils if it gets too hot
Nice but which one is good for outdoor big speaker party Box? 4th? or 6th?
I'd prefer a 6th.
A real box builder!! Not these rip-off shops
This sounds like a really stupid question but I have to ask it because I'm confused by some of the references I see: in sixth order enclosures is the rear chamber the one behind the driver (ie with the chassis and magnet protruding into it) or the one in front of the driver?
yeah, rear chamber is the one with the magnet in it, and is usually also tuned lower than the front chamber if it has one
@@Dakoustics Thanks for the clarification. Cheers
I think about 6th order wall 1:1 (200l/200l). It would be for two DD audio 9918f on Soundigital 12k. Rear chamber tune to 25hz and front to 55hz. I have hatchback (skoda felicia). Its good idea to make this 6th order wall or choose normal bassreflex
with +- 350l and tune it about 42hz?
100L each for 18" subs in the rear is pretty small, but 6000w each is a good amount of power, so a smaller box should prevent too much excursion. I'd go 6th order. Not sure what kind of constraints you have, but you'd get a bit more efficiency down low if you make a bigger rear chamber, 300L; on DD's website they suggest 5 cu ft, which is 140L as minimum suggested for an 18", but joniK's got 8 15s in a 450L box so it's not law.
@@Dakoustics So rear chamber 300L tune to 25hz, front chamber 200l and work on front port until it will play good? Also changing front port will change my peak right? I want to play low but at least have 150db+ on windshield.
@@NearZoneSiona oh yeah on 6k rms on a 6th order wall i'd be surprised if you weren't at 152 at least, I've seen 6k trunk systems to that, all increasing the back chamber should do is increase the lows, the highs will remain about the same, when it comes to the front port the higher you tune it the higher peak you'll get, both db and frequency, so its up to you when its tuning is no longer musical. Highest I'd go is 50, mine is tuned 50Hz and actually peaks at 60Hz oddly enough, but it is supposed to be a musical system, it's 210L tuned to 20 and 70L tuned to 50, and it's perfectly musical, but to get loud you'll want a larger than 3:1 ratio.
No closure type is "better" than the next. It's all about preference, woofer specs, application, music type, etc. Personally, I don't care for bandpass boxes. They may play loud, but have a one note sound. Sealed and a simple ported tends to be more musical.
Please tell me more
@@m.morininvestor9920 First, I disclose I'm not a music major nor do I know anything about notes, keys, whatever. I understand octaves, frequencies, etc because of the vast knowledge the car audio and other electronic publications of the 90s used to print. I was a dealer for a time, built many boxes...I know what I hear based on my experience with the different enclosure types.
Your general off the shelf bandpass (4th or 6th order) boxes will typically play one note or 2.5 octaves (40-120 hz) and all you hear is BOOM...BOOM...BOOM...very loud and efficiently.
If you build one and design it to play 30-80 HZ, you're still going to get one note sound and will possibly be a bigger enclosure.
There are, however, several types of bandpass enclosures you can make could sound musical. Around 2006(?), Rockford Fosgate sold their HE2 subs in a bandpass enclosure and they were intense. They were ungodly loud and efficient but pretty musical overall. They were big and heavy, not for every vehicle.
Ported (bass reflex) enclosures when made correctly will play every note of every octave between where you place the low pass filter and the tuning frequency of the port. When the enclosure and port is made well you can get great output at the tuning frequency of the port, ...booOM...booOM...booOM...boOOM...and so forth.
Sealed (acoustic suspension) enclosures are the most musical in my opinion. They can ne crossed over as high as you need to or as low as the woofer and enclosure combination will play effectively without bottoming out the voice coil. But, their sound is judged by the "Q" or QTC of the enclosure design. A Q of .707 is said to be the perfect audiophile sound and a Q of 1.0 and higher for a more boomy and "uncontrolled" bass. Their biggest drawback is they require tons more power to get loud for bassheads. Overall, you get bOOm...BoooM...BoOoM...boooom...whatever the artist put on the track. Just do yourself a favor and put a low pass filter at 30 hz so you don't destroy your woofer.
You can get more output from a sealed by loading it against a wall, corner or even down firing it if it has a stiff enough suspension to prevent sagging over time.
Basically, to design your system, bring out a piece of paper or CAD program and sketch out what you want. List the audio qualities you're looking for, requirements, capabilities, limitations, etc.
I recommend you read "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" by Vance Dickason. That is a must have book for beginners.
So my question is what is best for 2 sundown zv6 d1 15s a 4th order or 6th order box with Size dimensions of the Box as a blowthrough build for a pickup truck?
Very informative! Can I ask what software you use? It looks more user friendly than what I have.
WinISD
@@Dakoustics for designing a 4th or 6th for my Morel Ultimo SC 122. I'd like mainly 16-20 hz tune. Thanks brother, very informative video.
Lets say series box,how to calculate the thin port? And the large port?
Hey just one question does it matter if you face the opening of the port directly in front of the subwoofer in a fourth order box?
It's large the box ,one claimed to get 14 Herz with the Marty cube,are cars subwoofer drivers good for a home built,it's easy to find car subwoofer drivers but home it's a bit more difficult to find
I have 2 soundqubed hds3 15s. What box would be recommended for them ? Also my gf has an 10in hds2.1 and I was also looking for custom box for it.
What is that box calculator you are using. im looking for an accurate one.
So for the 20hz the better option is the 1:3 enclosure right?
So is the 4th or the 6th best for hip hop music
For sub with QTS of 0.38 what would be better 4th or 6th order
Right inbetween 4th and 6th, but I'd suggest 6th over 4th.
I curious to know if I can change my subs up/ports back BR box into a 6th order by adding a second chamber on top. My og box is 2.1cuft @35hz. I've modeled and built the top chamber and it's ready to go on. QUESTION ⁉️
Since my current box sounds best ports back, and the 2 chambers are essentially 180* out of phase with each other (right?).. could I face the port of the upper bass forward? Firing in the opposite direction of the lower bass ports?..or should I just go with the tried and true "all ports exiting the same direction" method?
My 4th order doesn't play below 29hz like my old simple ported box did. It plays all other stuff well.
Hello thanks for the videos.
I'm looking for opinions for 15" memphis MOJO box.
I'm thinking 3rd or 4th order
I definitely subscribed, how much xmax one way would you consider 'high' xmax? I am thinking of making a 6x15" wall in a volkswagen caddy, with B2 audio Rage subs. Those subs have a QTS of 0.5 and 20mm xmax one way. 4th or 6th?
Kinda depends on how much space you have . If you wanna make the most of 6 subs on a 6th order you'll need a large enclosure not to choke them. If you don't have enough space, a 4th order is ideal. If you do, a 6th order is a good way to get the most out of a driver without going crazy. The difference could be 100L/sub 4th order, and 150L/sub 6th order.
Hi! I have a Magnat subwoofer (30cm) that I installed in a box thats very similar to the one at 4:02 (1:1). I made the box 15 years ago with no calculation or experience.
I don't use it in the car anymore, its connected to my home theater but its not performing well.
What type of box should I build?
I like the idea of a 5th order, so front of the driver is in a transmission line, and the rear of the driver is in a ported box, could be cool
Great vid, is there a way to model a 6th order series vs parallel because I don’t see that option in WinISD?
Reports say HornResp, but I haven't had a good enough dive into the program to work out how.
Bass Box Pro
In my day we call those bandpass boxs
And in my day people are lazy and shorten things as much as possible. I mention bandpass in the video, but 99% of the time when 4th order or 6th order is mentioned bandpass comes to mind rather than bass reflex.
Do you ever do box design services?
Any recomend for 12 inc bandpass 4th..tanks
I have no idea what those orders refer to, but it was interesting nonetheless.
I have ran the bigger port on the coil side which is the smallside 6th order
Would you class 15.9mm xmax, 0.52 QTS sub enough excursion to be suitable for a 4th order?
It’s a Rockford fosgate P3D4 12. I’ve got about 4 cu ft to play with and figured I should give it a go, but info on 4th and 6th order sub box designs are scarce.
Yeah, should work fine. As long as you're not sending it too much power, 16mm xmax is quite decent.
You do excellent explaining I'm just dumb and can't seem to figure anything out I have a DC level 4 18" I listen to rock and EDM/rap I love feeling the kick drum can you please help me with some box dimensions I'll pay you please
Awesome video! Thanks!
which would give my the best low freq response while keeping a fairly wide frequency spectrum?
A 4th order. I have both and my 4th order is more musical and plays way deeper than my 6th. However my 6th does play louder at a narrow bandwidth so is good for spl.
Who remembers 2 JL isobaric in a 4th order hot box on a punch 40
I'd love to hear that, sounds like it'd sound good.
My uncle is still running his 2x JL 12w4 in an ISO ported setup tuned at 28Hz. The woofers were refoamed with new surrounds and gaskets. He also has a JL12W6 but is not using it currently.
Thank you, excellent explanatio video
for music 4 ordre no way superbe travail !!! bravo mais nous n avons pas le meme avis !
No matter what you do..it's still a bandpass
Box..bigger the box..bigger the booom..keep it simple.. good vid though..ovah.
Can i tune a 6th order below the Fs of the sub?
BTW great video
Yeah, my 6th was originally at Fs of the sub, but it had a nasty peak, I lowered the tuning twice, and it performed fine. Just make sure you don't hit Xmax at its resonance, the driver moves a ton right in the middle of the two tunings.
@@Dakoustics Okay thanks a lot
hey ... which software do you use for simulation ?
WinISD, but this version is slightly older if you get it and it looks different
how to tune the ports of a sixth order bandpass box, is it the same as a ported sub box?
yes
How about 6th order with isobaric loading?
I've made an isobarik 6th order, its basically the same, but the vas of the drivers is halved, so to be optimal the enclosure size should also be halved, unless the enclosure is already too small in which case isobarik can be a good way of correcting it
Really good video!
what is the app name?
that make a frequency responce
Winisd can no simulate serie tunded 6th Bandpass. And that cabin gain theory is wrong. It no low that says its 12 db. It more like Resonases. Like in mye car i have an peak att 35 hz thats the peak of my Enclosure system. But when i turn it up the space inside the cabin is not big enough and phase of the backwave and the front wave starting to cancel, things in the cabin starting to flex, vibrate and so on. so it start to peak at 45 hz. And this depends on the size of the Cabin. Where the dominant frequency's is. And this also depends what Enclosure you use. A sealed Enclosure wil no behave like an portet solution inn a cabin. Because of the backwave and frontwave wil phase together in a portet box.
Yeah, I know cabins are complex shapes and sizes, it's annoying having to generalise, but I wanted to mention why 4th orders have bad low frequency response in the simulations but have plenty of low end in reality. But yeah, generally that 12dB starts beginning below the resonance of the car, so if yours is 35Hz you should be up a tad at 18Hz.
@@Dakoustics the biggest problem here is the Ts parameters. You can not backtrack something with something thats not correct. Always when i Design i take out Ts parameters myself . If you take a look att Basskassekonstruktørene on Facebook you can se mye work on it. With Rta vs simulations. Of course this depends on what Volum you are on. But att low volume on your Stereo your box Respons will be most dominant until you turn it up and then the cabin Respons or system Respons gets more dominant .
Sony done series box with a fat port and was piped from the back 40mm or more pipe ......back in the day of 5 cd changer and box speakers was only 60w 8inch inside it 😀
What software do you recommend
'Hornresp' is supposed to be more accurate, though 'WinISD' is way easier for beginners/more basic box design.
4th order hits lower frequency than 6th. And tighter and more accurate sound.
Totally knowledge.
Can i 4th order a American bass hd 12 and what should i do
1 cube sealed, 1.5 cube ported, tuned to 50Hz should do well.
@@Dakoustics 50 is kinda high will i miss all the 29 thru 40 bass my box now is set on 40 and if it at 50 does it play 50 n down or 50 and up
@@kidsavage86 45 should still be fine, but you might lose some in the 60Hz range, and yeah it plays 50 and down. Another option is make it 1.5cu sealed and 1.5cu ported, the extra sealed should help it down lower
Im back again doing a hcca 12 in a bandpass best tuning if i want spl but daily
Nice vid
DJ RUSSTICALS Vs your box
Lol, he's gonna rip it apart 😂
Great work bro
You know... at 11:19, you could do it in isobaric and fit 40 subs lol
lmao
25 years ago i had sealed box and that thing was rumbling people thought i had two 15s not 12s wth good old shnaider amp
@Dakoustics what do you think of an underhung voice coil with a powerful motor and a thick surround? Thanks
The main issue with underhung motors is they don't have a strong motor, so if this one has one, it should be fine. I wouldn't expect it to have a ton of excursion, so the thick surround is likely more for show than required. It should be fine though, a powerful motor is a powerful motor.
@@Dakoustics it is a custom built nsv4 prototype that I ordered from the company. I think they used the nsv3 motor to be honest. I have it in a ported box. Tuned to right around 30hz. Powered by a Mmats 3000.1
@@572012myo yeah they're good subs, also there's a big difference between the nsv3 and nsv4, the nsv3 looks like a standard magnet, the nsv4 magnet looks more like an oil filter
@@Dakoustics I know. My box says nsv4 prototype but the motor looks like the nsv3. It sounds great. The sub barely moves. Box is 3.5 net. It was my first time designing and building. I got the the port to 54 square inches instead of 56 but it plays well. I'm not really sure how much that affected the tuning. It was originally designed for an SQL setup I was building.
@@Dakoustics all in 1 inch mdf
I don't believe it's true that (in a 6th order bandpass) if you tune both chambers to the same frequency they would cancel each other out... I don't think this is true at all.
Why is the word order used ?
not sure, but it has something to do with the roll-off, im guessing the higher the order the steeper the roll-off, but still im not sure why, possibly because of the "order" from shallowest to steepest, something like that, instead of calling it a 4th type bandpass
I wish I would have taken some serious classes on this in my youth instead of spending my entire life looking at it scratching my head .
Hi everyone. I have questions for my design - widerange paralell 6th order bandpass box for this woofer: usspeaker.com/rcf%20-%20L18S800-1.htm . The parameters I used from this website.
The whole design with simulations is here: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/6ed61dc2dba150c098938fd0055eb6158fbd2d314121c79a459004bec42d3e5e .
I know that Amplitude response is everywhere around -4 db on bandwidth, but I want to design a widerange box + I want to maximise out the high 20ish and all 30ish frequencies, and have acceptable group delay + ideal power handling + and the box have to be buildable. This is the reason why I want to design a 6th order bandpass box for this woofer.
Using this online designer I designed sealed, ported and 4th order bandpass boxes which are working well in real, but when it comes to design 6th order bandpass using this online designer, the results are somehow strange for me in my opinion, especially the one of the main things: the high-tuned chamber volume / size, and it's port tuning.
If I design a bigger (normal volume / size) high-tuned chamber, and I adjust the Fb to a normal frequency, lets say 60, or 80 Hz, the Cone displacement goes up so high between the port tunings, that it runs out from the graph. This is the reason, why I do not trust in this online designer when it comes to designing a 6th order bandpass box.
So my question is: in your opinion this box for this woofer will work so well like in the simulations, or this design is completely wrong? Especially the results on Cone displacement, Maximum power and Group delay graph. If this design is wrong, I delete it, and I will design a ported box...
Btw, sorry for my bad english.
Bro, with all do respect you just gave everyone false information!!!
If I have a bandpass subwoofer and want to put it in a standard basspass box which is a 1:1 ratio. That means IF I MAKE MY SEAL SIDE 1.5CUFT THEN MY PORTED SIDE WILL BE 1.5CUFT "EQUAL VOLUME", 1:2 ratio means if my seal is 1.5CUFT THEN MY PORTED SIDE WILL BE "DOUBLE THE VOLUME" 3CUFT.... The only thing you got right is the longer the port, the lower the subwoofer can drop. PORTS PLAY AT TUNING OR ABOVE!!! Anything below the tuning is lost by 3db and as it goes below the tuning it loses control over the cone.
I'm not trying to be mean or rude but I don't want you walking around with the wrong info. I don't know you, you could be a world class box builder just wording the shit wrong. I been installing since the 90s and I learn alot over the years building enclosures and making bass tracks. I'm not the best but I'm a damn good installer. My wife wants me to start back installing but overall I admire your passion for it, I lost mines years ago
Sorry for the length of this response, but I fully respect you wanting the right information out there, so heres a few things.
1. Regarding the 1:1 and 1:2 ratio, you didn't point out anything I got wrong.
2. Ports dont play at tuning or above: Take a sub box tuned to 40Hz, play 80Hz, no air will move through the port. Plug the port, theres no difference in output. The only thing making sound is the speaker itself, I'm guessing you know ported boxes can play up to 500Hz even, but at that point its only the subwoofer itself. Ports in 4th orders and 6th orders are responsible for ALL the sound, so you only hear what air moves through the port.
So, from what I can tell you're super used to how ported boxes work, which does play from tuning and above, and loses control below port tuning, but 4th orders act like a mirror effect, and do everything opposite, play port down, have control below port tuning etc.
But yeah I get being bored of installing, if you haven't done it in a few years have a look at some integrated systems which take a digital output from the stock touchscreen stereo, theres still a want for after-market systems. Also, bunch of cheap, good class D amps, maybe just having a look at some newer hardware will get your imagination and passion going.
Anyway let me know if you got what I mean, I've done a ton of research, experiments, thought experiments, simulations, you name it, I would never spread false information, the "sealed v ported" video was originally made to correct false information which I saw in another video.
@@Dakoustics you're good bro I love reading lol, I meant to say they play at tuning and above but yea I'm working on getting 6 15" in a 4th. Man between 1998-2008 all I build was 4th. I built a 6th but it sounded like shit. My dumb ass made the port same length and width lmao
your 6th order(series) can do this, this is something he does not mention, if you have your ports not firing directly into eachother, you can tune to same freq and be skullcrushingly loud, I have done it a few times with a 1:1.25/1.5 ratio for customers, one of them has gotten 145 with 2 8s at 40hz (believe he said 2k burp but I could be wrong with that) bc of it, Idk if it was a kick score but damn impressive considering my one 15 in a ported box is at 146 at around 5k lol
Of course 6th Order better because have port flow the air, 4th Order less energy & less deep bass than 6th Order
TT technology, TT xmax series
I must address this. When referring to a subwoofer enclosure when you say 4th order you're just talking about the port. A 4th Order Box is just a ported box. Just call it a bandpass 4th order. Because the band pass is essentially what everyone is describing as " a 4th order" having the one side in a sealed enclosure and the other side in a ported enclosure creating a "band pass" filter. Stay woke info via the12volt.com have a lovely day.
Yeah I know, but the english language is an evolving one and often social trends drive definitions more than their original definitions. The 4th order colloquially allludes to bandpass enclosures and I skip the word bandpass because I'm lazy lmao
@@Dakoustics a part of me agrees 100% with that because let's face it we like it when things are easier. But I still have to address it because of the missing knowledge behind the word bandpass and how that describes exactly what's going on with the sealed enclosure side working with the ported enclosure side.
@@_pemex Yeah, I probably should've at least first time I mentioned the boxes in the videos that they were bandpasses, if the words 'bandpass', 'subwoofer' and 'enclosure' weren't so long they would've all been in the title instead of the latter two. But, I may make a 4th order and 6th order bandpass box for an IRL comparison, and it'll be in there.
@@_pemex Also I just noticed I did include bandpass in the description, so hopefully someone saw that.
And third and final reply lmao, I do mention right off the bat in the video they're both bandpass enclosures. It just seems to be missing from the title.
Hola buenas noches
I perfer 6th order. But i could see 4th order for sq
Hifi only 3th!
What a out fifth order? Totally skipped that.
I don't think that is possible. Have a look at how "orders" are defined here - (check Ron. E's post): www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/42037-speaker-enclosure.html
NO ORDER IS BEST 4 MY WALMART SUBS BUILD. THATS WHEN THEY SOUND THE BEST WHEN YOU DONT BUY THEM...😂💩
🟦....'Porting', 'Enclosure-Damping' & 'Port-Damping' are Three ENTIRELY DIFFERENT THINGS, The way you Dampen a Port (or Port-Tube) has apparently become a 'Lost-Art' in today's world, as there is NO set of calculations or instrument other than the human ear that can accomplish this.
it consists of tightly-stretching ONE-Layer of 10-denier-silk @ a time to what could end up to be several-layers of silk TIGHTLY-STRETCHED across the MOUTH of the PORT until Proper-Damping is achieved.
The Way to properly 'Dampen' a Port is by taking a D-cell battery and connecting It in PROPER-POLARITY to your woofer/midwoofer driver/s (+ to +) In such a way that you can quickly make & break the circuit on the POSITIVE-Side. (DO-NOT leave the battery hooked-up to the driver for more than a few-seconds)
.....When you quickly make or break the circuit, without ANY-DAMPING you will hear a kind of a "Bong"-sound, What you need to do is to keep testing and stretching another-layer of 10-denier silk TIGHTLY (to eliminate 'Fluttering' of the silk) across the mouth of the Port or Port-tube until the sound you get when you either Make-OR-Break the circuit is a Shorter-TIGHTER sound, closer to a "CLICK"-sound than a "BONG"-sound.
Once you've minimized that sound to as close to & as 'Tight' a "Click"-sound as you can get, then proper "Port-Damping" has been achieved.
Great bit on sub boxes. People new to lower frequency audio AND those with intermediate knowledge can take as little or as much information as they want from this video. VERY clear and direct information sprinkled with a bit of personal experience from yourself make this one of the best, most detailed explanations of how bandpass works and it's delivered with a lot of technical specifications while also being simple enough for those who don't have an engineering degree to understand. Bravo and thank you for this. You have gained a subscriber from me.
r
Modelling a 6th order parallel bandpass I have found that it is best to start off by designing a vented box which is slightly bigger and has what is called the chebychev response. There should be a bit of a peak around tuning and a couple of dB dip in the centre of the range. A driver with an EBP (FS divided by Qes) of between 100 and 120 for tunings in the 35 to 40 Hz range and lower if you want to tune lower. Once this is set up on the simulator (I use hornresp) the second chamber should be around half the size and tuned twice as high.
If the lower tuned portion is about a third larger than a flat vented box (so the total can is about twice the volume) then you will get a flat response but if you go a bit smaller you will have a slight rising response which is okay to save space in a car and will level out with cabin gain.
Thomas Jester Tarulli of team orion has/had a (6) 15" sub system in a 6th order that is very high output with a wide frequency response. It's quite legendary his performance. His set up is 1:1 and tuned at 25 and 50hz. As always it seems it's about trial and error as each car/home is so different.
Just a heads up guys: WinISD cannot simulate series tuned 6th orders.
What program do you recommend for series tuned 6th order?
@@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS you can check out bassbox pro 6
I'm debating a 6th or a 4th. Really good info on the 6th Order enclosure.
Will never go back
@@robertkurtz7587 From a 4th or 6th?
Thanks helped me understand more about Qts and 4th order. I'm working on a 4th order for a JL 12W6 for fun!
How did your build turn out? If it’s monstrous I’ll put the same in my civic.
@@Ichabod_Jericho I scrapped it and went a massive audio 12. It can handle more power and hit way harder deeper bass. Sold that W6.
adaboy4z I knew it! Part of me wants to go JL, part of me knew big brand names have cheaped out
@@Ichabod_Jericho Don't get me wrong that JL W6 is a beast on 600 watts but there are better subs for cheaper and can handle more power. I already had a Kicker KXA800.1 amp and a Kicker KX1200.1 so it was natural to use that power!!!