This videos help me actually start tuning after purchasing HPtuner and cam/head swapping my LS1. Anyone with a working knowledge of HPtuners and ready for the next step, this is it. Thank you for sharing.
Good stuff! The issue you had when you switched the idle airflow back to 6 and then it didn't want to stay running is because your long term idle trims were still -3 so effectively you were commanding 3 g/s idle airflow, the short terms trims were then saying you were 3 too low and were dialing your long terms back towards 0 which got you back to 6 g/s. Much like fuel trims, the short term trims only capture higher resolution data and then averages to make changes to your long term trims which then adjust your commanded. Enjoyed watching you go through the process!
It’s like you are speaking a different language 🤣🤣🤣 I can build engines, rebuild engines, transmissions, rear ends, motorcycles, distributors, carburetors….. I can do almost anything! Except tune. Is there a place I can go to school for this?
For cam change you need to decrease low rpm fuel and add fuel at higher rpm. Cams are inefficient at low rpm so are rich down low and lean out as rpms increase
Great video, your adjustment/or non adjustment helped me to go back and check my future tuning if something doesn't look right. Good to see a seasoned guy like myself learning.
After a year of screwing around, moving the injector normal and makeup values higher to around 6.2 is what finally got mine running right. A wider cam timing needs a wider injector timing boundary.
Just noticed, when you said it was pulling a bunch of timing in park. Its because when you wanted to make all lower cells 30 degrees you forgot to hit equals in the p/n table. You did it correctly in gear but not in park!
Hey man your channel is very informative and the main reason behind that is that you take us with you during the process of tuning to devolpe an experience even from watching a video specifically with idle tuning not alot youtubers do this instead they would just show you how to do a base tune and then your on your own dialing that in you have already made a gen 3 idle tuning I am expecting a new gen 4 Idle tuning process just like your gen3 idle video soon enough so we can see cause and effect and diagnosis instead of just a base tune not alot of videos out there specially during the process great content keep them coming
I was always told not to touch airflow or timing and you should be taking away fuel at low RPMs and adding it at the Higher end because the power curve of the cam needs less fuel until it gets close to where the power comes on
When the setting would not go to your desired 8g/s it was interpolating between the two cells because he engine was 93c and on the table the values in the cells were under 80 and 100, so if ya graphed it and drew a line it would be spot on at the displayed value at 93c
When you were advancing ignition for idle near the start, you were fighting the idle adv which was taking 10 degrees away from what you had set, it was trying to drop the idle speed to your target rpm I think
this i what happens when people who dont know what theyre doing try to teach. ive never tuned a truck before but i can clearly see this happening. every time he added timing the idle advance took more out
The reason you had to come back and adjust timing was because you didn't disable idle timing adjusment which was -10 degrees once you got it maxed out while adjusting regular advance
I think the cam profile itself is going to lend itself to making crazy torque down low, so it’s going to need more fuel in that regard. From what I’ve seen these type of large duration split/moderate lift cams at that Split angle don’t make big top HP numbers but excellent torque production.
I’m assuming you’re still using a MAF tune? So many people recommend going Speed Density but in a true driver it can be a challenge during the changes in season and altitude when traveling. I’m surprised you were able to get a recovering idle without cracking the throttle blade or enlarging the bypass air hole in the throttle blade. 🤔 Maybe with the Turbo blowing into the TB, even w/o boost per say it’s still adding air. Interesting video, thanks for sharing your Testing and Results! 👍 PS just saw the ending where the Turbo isn’t hooked up yet! Still surprised it idled by only using the tune, my 4.8 w/ 216/220 cam was a bear to get a recoverable idle 750-800 rpms.
I am running the 3 Bar Enhanced OS from HP Tuners which is a speed density system but I did notice it is pretty finicky and my AFR readings vary from day to day as temperatures/conditions change. I did end up adjusting the set screw to open up the throttle blade a bit in the video I did about adjust IAC counts.
Switch on over under idle timing and set both to 10 degrees. Will give you that sweet chop choppity chop braap braap at idle the kids love so much. Oh and 26 degrees at idle on the timing table.
No once you have purchased 2 credits to license the VIN of the PCM you are working on you can make as many changes as you want without purchasing more credits
I just recently installed a summit 8701 cam, DOD/AFM delete kit and Ls6 springs in my 08 Silverado. This video will be what I follow to set my baseline idle and in gear idle but do you have any information for us noobies about adjusting fuel trims and timing under load? I'm going into this project solo and I'd really like to collect all the information I need before jumping into the knitty gritty. I've never tuned before, but I know enough to follow along and read the important data.
Hi Audi Alucks, this video was done on a Gen 3 ECU so there will be some slight differences on your truck, but most of the concepts will apply. With regards to adjusting fuel trims, I do it differently on my truck since I am turbocharged and running a speed density operating system, but for your truck there are two parts to airflow tuning. Under normal driving, the truck uses data from the MAF sensor and the factory O2 sensors to decide how much fuel is required. To tune in this mode, you would log your short term and long terms fuel trims and adjust the HZ in the Airflow vs Frequency table until your STFT and LTFT are as close to zero as possible. When in PE (power enrichment) mode your truck uses the VE table to calculate how much fuel is needed. To in this mode, you need to force your truck in to speed density mode and then log short term and long term fuel trims and then adjust the primary VE table until your STFT and LTFT are as close to zero as possible, or use a wideband O2 gauge to monitor air/fuel ratio and adjust the VE table until it reads whatever the ECU is commanding for AFR. For timing under load, the best way is to use a dyno, but for street tuning the way I do it is to first change any regions of the timing map that have negative values to zero or a slightly positive value. Also make sure your brake torque management is disabled. Then you can log knock retard and increase the values in the wide open throttle region of the timing table until the ECU starts pulling timing due to knock retard, then back off the timing until no knock is detected.
I am so glad I found your site. Many others that show how to tune, move the curser around so fast that it's hard to follow. You on the other hand you allow time to see what and where the curser is, so it makes sense. Would this particular tune be good with a Procharger @ 8.5 psi?
My LS has the summit 8707 cam it made max HP at around 5300rpm.. idles 9g/s and believe iac set at 16.. but with 1k idle it's got nice chop and smooth. Cold start is bit of a different story still lol. About to pay someone to finish it.
What do you mean by clear the adaptations? I'm messing around with Hp Tuners myself and could use some help. Thanks in advance if you have the time.....
Nevermind, I think what you mean is when the computer is trying to make small corrections based upon the O2 sensors, etc... Clear those so that the car makes least amount of adaptations....On the right track?
To fix the in gear issue add more timing in the lower cylinder airmass cells as load increases, what i do is make the whole table one number like 30 in your case this should fix alot of issue like bucking and surging
I have 08 Gmc yukon with 6.2 it has cam, long tubes, 3200 stall, fast lsxrt intake , nick Willam’s 103 throttle body. Got it tuned but Every time I rev engine it dies immediately. Any ideas of what it might be? Thanks!
Will it be the same for a manual swap? Mine shuts off when I let off the gas starts up fine idles fine but once I start. Driving or blip the throttle it shuts off
You probably figured it out by now, but at 12:43 you attempt to adjust in park idle timing to 30 degrees but forgot to hit the "=" sign, and failed to actually make the desired adjustment.
im on the same venture right now with a BTR Stage 3 V2 cam swap in my LS 6.0 and looking to purchase HP Tuners, i was wondering after all your final tuning how well does your LS run and perform with the Cam Change
after changing my camshaft to a 5.3 2009 vortec engine .. I have a code in my truck that says that my bank 1 camshafts is not right..this is normal or it can be fixed
The ECM is the P01/0411 computer that came with the truck from the factory. I’ll be doing a little more tuning on the truck this afternoon, I’ll try and shoot another video to explain why I did what I did.
Next video will be about converting from the factory IAT/MAF combination sensor to a stand alone IAT, then have to finish my cold side/Intercooler install. Then I can get at the WOT/driveability tuning.
I’ve got a 2014 Silverado gen V 5.3. Stage 2 tsp cam. What would be the best idle rpms to go after to keep the idle up a little and keeping that chop in the idle?
Miracle Motors I’m not familiar with the Gen 5 stuff but you probably only need to increase your idle speed about 75-100 rpm from stock. Basically you want as low of an idle speed as possible without being so low that it’s unstable. A 75-100 rpm increase is probably a good starting point.
Yeah it’s around 645-655 right now and just doesn’t seem to like it much. Also I’ve noticed a scratching/ screeching sound around 1300 rpms. Can to figure out what it is. Sounds top end driver side.
I've purchased a book from Ed Mowton with ERM Perfomance that I learned a lot of this stuff from. Unfortunately Ed is no longer with us but I believe his son still sells the book. I also have a membership at Evans Performance Academy by Jeff Evans, he has a lot of videos that cover Gen III and Gen IV HP Tuners tuning. I've also learned a bunch from the HP Tuners and from watching other UA-cam channels, and by good old trial and error.
Hi , did you do anything to your tune prior to this video regarding the tune before you started the idle tuning , when you switched to speed density was there anything in the fueling side of things you had to change ?
When u went from 18degrees timing advance at idle you didn’t push equal and it stayed at 18 instead of 30degrees and everything wen out of wack at idle from there
Can anyone help think of somewhere where I can buy a ws6 95-02 98-02 prefer but open to the others anyways find one under 4K roller or not. I notice in my area f body camaros are easier to come by than ws6 so might have to get one if iam out of luck. No offer up and craigslist I check them all the time. I want to build it as a daily built 5.3 4l80e. My other projects will have 6dp TH400 etc thanks in advance. Your opinions or builds are welcomed. Also is it worth to find a super clean v6 then swap a 5.3 but then other upgrades for that I will need is like what v8 subframe connectors etc? Oh yea one more thing would a 5.3 be a hassle to put into a previous LT1 ws6 or Camaro?
Hi, if I sent you a log file and table, can you help me understand what going on. I'm new to this and not asking you to tune anything but share your understanding and point me in the right direction. I have a 2002 Silverado 5.3 with an LS6 cam, cold air intake, and an LS6 intake with a T56. It runs and drives but trying to dial it in. Thanks in advance
Why are you trying to tune against your adaptives why the trouble you can just disable them tune and get them back on just like when your tuning ve you disable maf and the other way around?
@@LowbuckLS makes perfect sense. Thank you. I think that I figured out your problem with the truck dying when putting in gear. When you worked with your proportional, integral, etc. Did you put any value other than zero in the zero place for rpm error? Same with over speed and under speed timing?
Dan Driver I didn’t change any of the proportional/integral values from stock. I did figure out the issue with it stalling in gear, there is a setting called brake torque management that I turned off to solve that issue.
@@LowbuckLS you should change your proportional, integral etc etc to clean up your lope. Loping for a long time with incorrect instantaneous air and timing can burn/foul plugs, cause overheating as well as hotspots especially with aluminum heads. Most clean it up for "that chop" but really should be done for efficiency and burn quality
Those are both codes that have to do with the throttle position sensor, is this on a drive by cable or drive by wire vehicle? You may want to try this TPS relearn procedure: thetuningschool.com/blogs/news/tps-relearn-process
Atanas Tripzter mine is the original MVPI which they don’t sell anymore. If I were to buy one right now, I would start with the standard MVPI2 and would upgrade to the Pro features if you needed to log an analog signals etc. Also remember that you’ll need to buy credits for each vehicle you tune, Gen 3 or 4 LS vehicles need 2 credits each, newer vehicles need more I think
13.2 at idle? That would wash the hell out of the cylinders. Lol the o2 sensors adjust the fuel trims to runs at 14.7 no matter idle or cruising which is ideal. The only time you should run 13.0-13.2 aft is wide open
ThatDudeTrent yeah that seemed a little rich for idle. I’m running an open loop speed density tune so my O2 sensor isn’t going to make any correction to the AFR I have to do it all in the tune. But yeah I’ll stick to 14.7 ish at idle now that I think about it.
Lowbuck LS manufactures set the engines to 14.7 af for emissions . After you throw a big cam in that engineering went out the window . You can change the af and watch the map change up and down . The best af is slightly leaner than your best manifold vacuum reading for idle. Some people just run open loop for idle then the ecm is running a fixed program.
Normally for these LS engines it will cost 2 credits per vehicle that you want to tune, once it has been licensed you can tune it an unlimited number of times. If you buy enough credits for the same type of vehicle eventually you can “unlock” that type so you don’t need to pay for credits for that model any more. But for most people it will cost 2 credits per serial number.
@@LowbuckLS I think I understand...couldn't I just buy the holley terminator X setup and then tune all I want for free? Where im going with this is, I want to learn to tune my own truck..but if I have to give it 25 different trys, I dont want to have to pay for 25 different writings or credits using HP tuners lol id rather just pay one lump sum up front and then tune when ever and where ever for free persay
@@motorjoe_937 you a pay a 1 time fee per pcm. If you purchase credits for your truck 1 time, you can tune it and edit it an infinite number at no additional charge. Only if you go to a different vehicle computer to tune do you pay another credit(s) fee.
@@LowbuckLS well, I've figured it out for the most part. I've done VE based tuning before, it was nice seeing you apply it to this Chevy as some kind of mark of similarity between these three vehicles. But the maps on the Subaru were far more straight forward. There was a closed loop section that defined everything needed for idle, a VE section, a base openloop fueling section to directly adjust AFR, etc etc. So the indirect strings that this SRT8 has given me threw me for a bit of a loop today. Luckily Theres a post on HP tuners that can open my eyes more to this.
Yeah I think I had issues with the real time tuning, it works great for VE tuning but not that great for idle tuning. I don’t think it worked in gear I don’t remember the exact reason but I ended up giving up on the real time tuning for idle airflow and did it the old fashioned way.
Ricardo Villa it might just be a result of the c swap, if your new cam has a lot of overlap it could be letting some extra unburied fuel through into the exhaust at idle. I have heard of guys messing with “End Of Injection” timing to fix that but I don’t have any experience with that myself
Another greenhorn nube tuner video based on info he watched on youtube..not experience. This guy has about 2 hours experience with VCM Scanner. SMH, guys like this are the reason mail order plugin tuners are the way to go.
I learned more watching you talk to yourself than watching others trying to teach
This videos help me actually start tuning after purchasing HPtuner and cam/head swapping my LS1. Anyone with a working knowledge of HPtuners and ready for the next step, this is it. Thank you for sharing.
Good stuff! The issue you had when you switched the idle airflow back to 6 and then it didn't want to stay running is because your long term idle trims were still -3 so effectively you were commanding 3 g/s idle airflow, the short terms trims were then saying you were 3 too low and were dialing your long terms back towards 0 which got you back to 6 g/s. Much like fuel trims, the short term trims only capture higher resolution data and then averages to make changes to your long term trims which then adjust your commanded. Enjoyed watching you go through the process!
Goat Rope Garage thanks for your input, enjoy following your channel and your live streams.
It’s like you are speaking a different language 🤣🤣🤣
I can build engines, rebuild engines, transmissions, rear ends, motorcycles, distributors, carburetors….. I can do almost anything! Except tune. Is there a place I can go to school for this?
@@LowbuckLSt5
Tu trtd
@@baby-sharkgto4902 look up goat rope garage youtube channel
For cam change you need to decrease low rpm fuel and add fuel at higher rpm. Cams are inefficient at low rpm so are rich down low and lean out as rpms increase
Great video, your adjustment/or non adjustment helped me to go back and check my future tuning if something doesn't look right. Good to see a seasoned guy like myself learning.
After a year of screwing around, moving the injector normal and makeup values higher to around 6.2 is what finally got mine running right. A wider cam timing needs a wider injector timing boundary.
Just noticed, when you said it was pulling a bunch of timing in park. Its because when you wanted to make all lower cells 30 degrees you forgot to hit equals in the p/n table. You did it correctly in gear but not in park!
Corey Harris good eye, yes I caught that letter and corrected it.
Hey man your channel is very informative and the main reason behind that is that you take us with you during the process of tuning to devolpe an experience even from watching a video specifically with idle tuning not alot youtubers do this instead they would just show you how to do a base tune and then your on your own dialing that in you have already made a gen 3 idle tuning I am expecting a new gen 4 Idle tuning process just like your gen3 idle video soon enough so we can see cause and effect and diagnosis instead of just a base tune not alot of videos out there specially during the process great content keep them coming
I was always told not to touch airflow or timing and you should be taking away fuel at low RPMs and adding it at the Higher end because the power curve of the cam needs less fuel until it gets close to where the power comes on
When the setting would not go to your desired 8g/s it was interpolating between the two cells because he engine was 93c and on the table the values in the cells were under 80 and 100, so if ya graphed it and drew a line it would be spot on at the displayed value at 93c
Great video! I loved how you explained everything so well and made it easy to follow along.
Solid video! gave me confidence to start tuning after this!
that idle actually sounds nice
Don't have HP tuners but was able to use this video to help get a good idle with TunerPro and Universal Patcher.
Good job straight to the point no bs
When you were advancing ignition for idle near the start, you were fighting the idle adv which was taking 10 degrees away from what you had set, it was trying to drop the idle speed to your target rpm I think
this i what happens when people who dont know what theyre doing try to teach. ive never tuned a truck before but i can clearly see this happening. every time he added timing the idle advance took more out
The reason you had to come back and adjust timing was because you didn't disable idle timing adjusment which was -10 degrees once you got it maxed out while adjusting regular advance
I think the cam profile itself is going to lend itself to making crazy torque down low, so it’s going to need more fuel in that regard. From what I’ve seen these type of large duration split/moderate lift cams at that Split angle don’t make big top HP numbers but excellent torque production.
I’m assuming you’re still using a MAF tune? So many people recommend going Speed Density but in a true driver it can be a challenge during the changes in season and altitude when traveling.
I’m surprised you were able to get a recovering idle without cracking the throttle blade or enlarging the bypass air hole in the throttle blade.
🤔 Maybe with the Turbo blowing into the TB, even w/o boost per say it’s still adding air.
Interesting video, thanks for sharing your Testing and Results! 👍
PS just saw the ending where the Turbo isn’t hooked up yet! Still surprised it idled by only using the tune, my 4.8 w/ 216/220 cam was a bear to get a recoverable idle 750-800 rpms.
I am running the 3 Bar Enhanced OS from HP Tuners which is a speed density system but I did notice it is pretty finicky and my AFR readings vary from day to day as temperatures/conditions change. I did end up adjusting the set screw to open up the throttle blade a bit in the video I did about adjust IAC counts.
This is the exact problem im having with my challenger , thank you so much
Thanks i actually could grasp what you are teaching.
Thanks for the video. Had the exact same issue and helped me tune it myself and saved some money. 👍
excellent vid brother. Thank you for taking the time to post it up.
Switch on over under idle timing and set both to 10 degrees. Will give you that sweet chop choppity chop braap braap at idle the kids love so much. Oh and 26 degrees at idle on the timing table.
Nice, like the pace and explanations.
Thank you, this helped me alot understand how to adjust things, makes me more confident in my my swap
LS2 Chevy Astro you’re welcome, glad you found it helpful
bro, youre a badass tuner
good morning, excellent video, consult each time a change is made in the vcm editor, do you have to load new credits in the hp tuner?
No once you have purchased 2 credits to license the VIN of the PCM you are working on you can make as many changes as you want without purchasing more credits
I just recently installed a summit 8701 cam, DOD/AFM delete kit and Ls6 springs in my 08 Silverado. This video will be what I follow to set my baseline idle and in gear idle but do you have any information for us noobies about adjusting fuel trims and timing under load? I'm going into this project solo and I'd really like to collect all the information I need before jumping into the knitty gritty. I've never tuned before, but I know enough to follow along and read the important data.
Hi Audi Alucks, this video was done on a Gen 3 ECU so there will be some slight differences on your truck, but most of the concepts will apply.
With regards to adjusting fuel trims, I do it differently on my truck since I am turbocharged and running a speed density operating system, but for your truck there are two parts to airflow tuning.
Under normal driving, the truck uses data from the MAF sensor and the factory O2 sensors to decide how much fuel is required. To tune in this mode, you would log your short term and long terms fuel trims and adjust the HZ in the Airflow vs Frequency table until your STFT and LTFT are as close to zero as possible.
When in PE (power enrichment) mode your truck uses the VE table to calculate how much fuel is needed. To in this mode, you need to force your truck in to speed density mode and then log short term and long term fuel trims and then adjust the primary VE table until your STFT and LTFT are as close to zero as possible, or use a wideband O2 gauge to monitor air/fuel ratio and adjust the VE table until it reads whatever the ECU is commanding for AFR.
For timing under load, the best way is to use a dyno, but for street tuning the way I do it is to first change any regions of the timing map that have negative values to zero or a slightly positive value. Also make sure your brake torque management is disabled. Then you can log knock retard and increase the values in the wide open throttle region of the timing table until the ECU starts pulling timing due to knock retard, then back off the timing until no knock is detected.
is this something that u have a video for. because I almost understand
I am so glad I found your site. Many others that show how to tune, move the curser around so fast that it's hard to follow. You on the other hand you allow time to see what and where the curser is, so it makes sense. Would this particular tune be good with a Procharger @ 8.5 psi?
My LS has the summit 8707 cam it made max HP at around 5300rpm.. idles 9g/s and believe iac set at 16.. but with 1k idle it's got nice chop and smooth. Cold start is bit of a different story still lol. About to pay someone to finish it.
Did you get sorted cold start idle? I'm putting exactly same cam, need to tune that now
Would love to see a video like this but with tuner pro or universal patcher.
What are the cam specs? Sounds pretty rowdy. Thanks for your time and knowledge! Mike in DFW
I know this is an old video but can you do a tutorial on how to do this in universal patcher or tuner pro
7:30 When you locked in 20 degrees, why did it only go to 19.5?
Every time you make adjustments based of trims , fuel or timing, you need to clear adaptations when you start.
What do you mean by clear the adaptations? I'm messing around with Hp Tuners myself and could use some help. Thanks in advance if you have the time.....
Nevermind, I think what you mean is when the computer is trying to make small corrections based upon the O2 sensors, etc... Clear those so that the car makes least amount of adaptations....On the right track?
@@robbparker5445 correct, you want to turn it off so the computer doesn't mess with your tune.
I'm going to watch your video and try a idle tune on this 2015 chevy ss
To fix the in gear issue add more timing in the lower cylinder airmass cells as load increases, what i do is make the whole table one number like 30 in your case this should fix alot of issue like bucking and surging
xXQTRxFMSXx thanks, in the next video towards the end I got rid of the torque management, that seem to help the in gear idle quite a bit too.
Trying to learn how to tune a gen 4 6l80
Dude this is going to help me so much. just had delivery of ss2 cam springs lifters. Bought the tuner back in october.
I have 08 Gmc yukon with 6.2 it has cam, long tubes, 3200 stall, fast lsxrt intake , nick Willam’s 103 throttle body. Got it tuned but Every time I rev engine it dies immediately. Any ideas of what it might be? Thanks!
Will it be the same for a manual swap? Mine shuts off when I let off the gas starts up fine idles fine but once I start. Driving or blip the throttle it shuts off
I want to hear my cam like yours! Mine stays high in the revs like 1600-2k then at a complete stop it’ll drop to the 900s
I learned a lot, thank you
You probably figured it out by now, but at 12:43 you attempt to adjust in park idle timing to 30 degrees but forgot to hit the "=" sign, and failed to actually make the desired adjustment.
I cant see what you changed it from ??
When a new cam is installed what needs to be done first on the tune to get started?
Bumping up the idle airflow is the main thing that needs to be done to get the engine to stay running
What can did you use
im on the same venture right now with a BTR Stage 3 V2 cam swap in my LS 6.0 and looking to purchase HP Tuners, i was wondering after all your final tuning how well does your LS run and perform with the Cam Change
It’s been running very well, I’m happy with the cam swap for sure. Now I need to do some transmission upgrades, but the engine is working great.
As soon as the LTFT came down it started to idle correct.
after changing my camshaft to a 5.3 2009 vortec engine .. I have a code in my truck that says that my bank 1 camshafts is not right..this is normal or it can be fixed
Great video, very practical.
Can you do a quick video explaining the reasoning behind what you did? What ECM is this? Thank you!
The ECM is the P01/0411 computer that came with the truck from the factory. I’ll be doing a little more tuning on the truck this afternoon, I’ll try and shoot another video to explain why I did what I did.
You made a correction factor to the Airflow and left your Idle LTFT at -3, you needed to clear out the LTFT
nice thank you needed this
noahtheviking you’re welcome, thanks for watching and commenting.
Good work Brother. Congrats on your sub count
some drivability tuning and WOT tuning vids next??
Next video will be about converting from the factory IAT/MAF combination sensor to a stand alone IAT, then have to finish my cold side/Intercooler install. Then I can get at the WOT/driveability tuning.
@@LowbuckLS sounds like a plan. looking forward to more vids!
I’ve got a 2014 Silverado gen V 5.3. Stage 2 tsp cam. What would be the best idle rpms to go after to keep the idle up a little and keeping that chop in the idle?
Miracle Motors I’m not familiar with the Gen 5 stuff but you probably only need to increase your idle speed about 75-100 rpm from stock. Basically you want as low of an idle speed as possible without being so low that it’s unstable. A 75-100 rpm increase is probably a good starting point.
Yeah it’s around 645-655 right now and just doesn’t seem to like it much. Also I’ve noticed a scratching/ screeching sound around 1300 rpms. Can to figure out what it is. Sounds top end driver side.
Have you been doing a course or did you get the hp tuners book to learn to do this.
I've purchased a book from Ed Mowton with ERM Perfomance that I learned a lot of this stuff from. Unfortunately Ed is no longer with us but I believe his son still sells the book. I also have a membership at Evans Performance Academy by Jeff Evans, he has a lot of videos that cover Gen III and Gen IV HP Tuners tuning. I've also learned a bunch from the HP Tuners and from watching other UA-cam channels, and by good old trial and error.
Lowbuck LS thanks.
I got a 00 silverado and i always have that stupid red battery light on and everything is new and got 16 volts do you know how to get rid of that?
Does anyone knows how to tune a c5 corvette with cam and headeres
Good stuff.
What program do you use in your videos to show your computer screen?
FasNuf Garage I’m using Camtasia, it’s not free but it does a good job of screen recording.
You didn’t do your 30 to the Park idle spark.
this is probably a stupid question but where do u plug tha computer into the obd terminal or directly to the pcm?
You plug in to the OBD2 port under the dash
Hey, why did you say to have the MAP sensore at a low pressure at the begginng when adjusting the timing
My rpm is hanging no matter what I change in the tune I can't figure it out.
Hi , did you do anything to your tune prior to this video regarding the tune before you started the idle tuning , when you switched to speed density was there anything in the fueling side of things you had to change ?
Jesse Kay no I didn’t change much on the fuel side, did some tuning on the airflow side on the VE table but didn’t do much to the fuel
When u went from 18degrees timing advance at idle you didn’t push equal and it stayed at 18 instead of 30degrees and everything wen out of wack at idle from there
Can anyone help think of somewhere where I can buy a ws6 95-02 98-02 prefer but open to the others anyways find one under 4K roller or not. I notice in my area f body camaros are easier to come by than ws6 so might have to get one if iam out of luck. No offer up and craigslist I check them all the time. I want to build it as a daily built 5.3 4l80e. My other projects will have 6dp TH400 etc thanks in advance. Your opinions or builds are welcomed. Also is it worth to find a super clean v6 then swap a 5.3 but then other upgrades for that I will need is like what v8 subframe connectors etc? Oh yea one more thing would a 5.3 be a hassle to put into a previous LT1 ws6 or Camaro?
Hi, if I sent you a log file and table, can you help me understand what going on. I'm new to this and not asking you to tune anything but share your understanding and point me in the right direction. I have a 2002 Silverado 5.3 with an LS6 cam, cold air intake, and an LS6 intake with a T56. It runs and drives but trying to dial it in. Thanks in advance
Great Video!
Jaylin Hamilton thanks, glad you found it helpful.
Why are you trying to tune against your adaptives why the trouble you can just disable them tune and get them back on just like when your tuning ve you disable maf and the other way around?
Anyone have cam sensor trouble code after swapping cams?
Thank you 🙏, where did you go to learn all of this sir?
A few different places, the HP Tuners documentation and Facebook group and have also tried a few different courses, HP Academy and Evan’s Performance
Thought you wanted to time for the most vaccum not least for idle. Your cam should ride at around 17°
Dan Driver you do want to time for most vacuum, but HP Tuners measures vacuum in absolute pressure so a smaller number = more vacuum.
@@LowbuckLS makes perfect sense. Thank you. I think that I figured out your problem with the truck dying when putting in gear. When you worked with your proportional, integral, etc. Did you put any value other than zero in the zero place for rpm error? Same with over speed and under speed timing?
@@LowbuckLS if you did put in any value other than zero in the zero block then the pcm gets confused
Dan Driver I didn’t change any of the proportional/integral values from stock. I did figure out the issue with it stalling in gear, there is a setting called brake torque management that I turned off to solve that issue.
@@LowbuckLS you should change your proportional, integral etc etc to clean up your lope. Loping for a long time with incorrect instantaneous air and timing can burn/foul plugs, cause overheating as well as hotspots especially with aluminum heads. Most clean it up for "that chop" but really should be done for efficiency and burn quality
I have a flex fuel 5.3 ecu and I was wondering how to make that work on a summit stage 2 turbo cam 6.0?
Just install a 268 cam on my srt8. Won't idle at times..
Do you have just an idle video?? I just want to see how it sounds
Do you have a link to purchase that software i am fixing to be doing some tuning myself or at least needing to
You can purchase the tool and software directly from HP Tuners at this link: www.hptuners.com/mpvi2/
It’s also available from Jegs, Summit, etc.
@@LowbuckLS thank you Sir
Cool video thanks
A high stall converter would help
He has a mild cam..no need for a stall...its like an RV cam...im kinfa confused as to why he hs taken the whole part of the truck offf for though?
Could p0122 and p0223 be a tune issue
Those are both codes that have to do with the throttle position sensor, is this on a drive by cable or drive by wire vehicle? You may want to try this TPS relearn procedure: thetuningschool.com/blogs/news/tps-relearn-process
@@LowbuckLS its a ls3 throttle body dbw setup
Having same issue with a similar set up to urs. Have you found problem?
Loving the lessons! Which Module do you have? I'm seeing bunch of options and I want to make sure I get the right HP Tuners module.
Atanas Tripzter mine is the original MVPI which they don’t sell anymore. If I were to buy one right now, I would start with the standard MVPI2 and would upgrade to the Pro features if you needed to log an analog signals etc. Also remember that you’ll need to buy credits for each vehicle you tune, Gen 3 or 4 LS vehicles need 2 credits each, newer vehicles need more I think
@@LowbuckLS how much are the credits?
@@LowbuckLS and I'm new here but hit the sub button. I love this stuff!!
Johnny Mc Nubs last time I bought credits they were $50 each
Need the tune file for this
You might get a little better idle at 13-13.2 af.14.7 is good for cruising at highway speeds .
Ok I’ll give that a try, thanks
13.2 at idle? That would wash the hell out of the cylinders. Lol the o2 sensors adjust the fuel trims to runs at 14.7 no matter idle or cruising which is ideal.
The only time you should run 13.0-13.2 aft is wide open
Correction. Didn’t see the turbo. Wide open more like 11.5 afr
ThatDudeTrent yeah that seemed a little rich for idle. I’m running an open loop speed density tune so my O2 sensor isn’t going to make any correction to the AFR I have to do it all in the tune. But yeah I’ll stick to 14.7 ish at idle now that I think about it.
Lowbuck LS manufactures set the engines to 14.7 af for emissions . After you throw a big cam in that engineering went out the window . You can change the af and watch the map change up and down . The best af is slightly leaner than your best manifold vacuum reading for idle. Some people just run open loop for idle then the ecm is running a fixed program.
I have an 08 silverado 5.3 did a dod delete rebuilt whole engine upgraded the cam anyone willing to email me a tune file?
Don't it cost credits each time you have to write a tune? Or cost money persay?
Normally for these LS engines it will cost 2 credits per vehicle that you want to tune, once it has been licensed you can tune it an unlimited number of times. If you buy enough credits for the same type of vehicle eventually you can “unlock” that type so you don’t need to pay for credits for that model any more. But for most people it will cost 2 credits per serial number.
@@LowbuckLS I think I understand...couldn't I just buy the holley terminator X setup and then tune all I want for free? Where im going with this is, I want to learn to tune my own truck..but if I have to give it 25 different trys, I dont want to have to pay for 25 different writings or credits using HP tuners lol id rather just pay one lump sum up front and then tune when ever and where ever for free persay
@@motorjoe_937 you a pay a 1 time fee per pcm. If you purchase credits for your truck 1 time, you can tune it and edit it an infinite number at no additional charge. Only if you go to a different vehicle computer to tune do you pay another credit(s) fee.
Tuning a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8, and unfortunately, it does not have as many settings to govern smooth idle as this.
James Miller yes I’ve heard that tuning the hemi engines is a whole different world, good luck :)
@@LowbuckLS well, I've figured it out for the most part. I've done VE based tuning before, it was nice seeing you apply it to this Chevy as some kind of mark of similarity between these three vehicles. But the maps on the Subaru were far more straight forward. There was a closed loop section that defined everything needed for idle, a VE section, a base openloop fueling section to directly adjust AFR, etc etc. So the indirect strings that this SRT8 has given me threw me for a bit of a loop today. Luckily Theres a post on HP tuners that can open my eyes more to this.
Funnily enough, it's just about idle tuning. Hopefully it's more than what the title states xD
Your g value you were changing in the real time tuning was for park only not in gear
Yeah I think I had issues with the real time tuning, it works great for VE tuning but not that great for idle tuning. I don’t think it worked in gear I don’t remember the exact reason but I ended up giving up on the real time tuning for idle airflow and did it the old fashioned way.
I recently got my 2009 tahoe tuned but now when starting it after turning it lff for about 10 smokes and sell to much like gas
Any ideas?
Ricardo Villa what kind of modifications have been done to the engine or was it just a tune of the stock engine?
Cam, headers. When I first started it it was fine then i dropped it off for a tune and it started smoking and smelling to much gas
I went from 87-93 i dont know if its that
Ricardo Villa it might just be a result of the c swap, if your new cam has a lot of overlap it could be letting some extra unburied fuel through into the exhaust at idle. I have heard of guys messing with “End Of Injection” timing to fix that but I don’t have any experience with that myself
Awesome video content.. Great job!
Wouldn't a throttle relearn correct this.
That’s the same issue I’m having on my swap
I also noticed there’s no gas in it lol
I know the problem, it needs a carb! Set it and forget it!!
Another greenhorn nube tuner video based on info he watched on youtube..not experience. This guy has about 2 hours experience with VCM Scanner. SMH, guys like this are the reason mail order plugin tuners are the way to go.
Upgrade that laptop with an SSD and won't be no slow no more
well that was boring.