Ted, I am Chris' uncle and one of the owners of our company. I have been following your videos for a long time and a few years back, pulled the trigger (so to speak) on an FX Impact and Element scope. Your videos are always top notch. What a small world. If you're ever in N. Idaho, please drop by.
Yes it is the ONLY thing UA-cam is good for.. The Shadow banning is out of control. Any and all information regarding politics is convoluted and skewed (Google as well) if you try to find any negative although truthful information on the Democratic nominees you won't find it. It's really bad now bc of the upcoming election. A lot of conservatives are going over to rumble and X bc there's way less censoring of conservative speech.✌🏼🇺🇸💪🏼
Unless they quit selling them,or ordering, you don't throw your tank away,easy repair,empty and take tank out, turn upside down, take all nuts off, take out bladder, put in new one, install and set pressure, I keep one on hand, have had a well for 50 years. , Roll up bladder like a newspaper,easy to replace.
Thanks for making this video! I installed a large accumulator in my motorhome last year to keep the pump from cycling all the time. I set the pressure, but did not realize that the tank should be empty first! This turned out to be a game-changer because I had it at 36 PSI when full and when it was empty it read 4 PSI - so, wrong, wrong, and wrong. It's now set correctly. Without this video, I would never have known. Thanks very much!
Another old guy here thinking the same thing... waiting for him to identify it as a Schrader valve. I later decided his ultimate goal was to keep the video as non technical as possible and avoid confusion for those people who are less than handy. That said... knowing its a Schrader valve is key in the event you ever need to purchase a new "valve stem" for a leaking valve. A beneficial thing knowing its a Schrader valve and "not a Presta valve" which is the other common valve found on bicycle tires.
Finally ! To the point and easy to follow. Thanks ! My well pump was cycling on and off very quickly. Turns out the pressure in my pressure tank was almost zero. (Apparently being in a basement with huge temperature swings can cause this?) I added the correct air pressure, and all is working properly now. Thanks again !! Was afraid I needed a new pressure tank.
You need to check the tank pressure once a year, maybe twice a year if your pressure tank is the old style galvanized tank without a diaphragm. If the water and air aren't separated by a barrier of some sort, then the air mixes with the water over time and you lose the air. Diaphragm tanks just lose the air over time, nothing is completely air tight forever. Checking the air and maintaining the correct pressure ensures the pump doesn't short cycle like yours was doing. That can burn your pump up if you let it go for very long. Pumping water actually cools a submersible pump, so the longer it runs after it turns on, the better it is for the pump motor. My well guy told me that, and he said when watering the yard or garden that it's better to run two sprinklers instead of one, that way the pump runs for a very long time before it turns off, if at all.
What are the symptoms of having the pressure in your tank too high or too low. e.g. on a 40-60 tank, what are the systems if your pressure was only 32, or if your pressure was 45? This would be useful to know so if we see that symptom, we know to check the pressure (vs it being something completely different)
Thank you! A great video: clear, succinct, logical and structured. I have been able to fix my house water pump system and all is well again. Saved me the usual "rip out and replace" solution, so something good has been done as well for sustainability and avoiding more landfill. Super! I am grateful.
This guy is awesome ! extremely well explained! There are many people that are great at their jobs but there aren't many that have the ability to teach it. This guys definitely has that gift. Thanks for the vid
Yes. I have been listening to his videos. He knows what he's talking about you takes his time to explain it to you and details than enough that I can understand. I do have one question though. My prompt was almost completely dry before it kicks in again. Is that because of the pressure
It’s 2024 and I’m a contractor/homeowner. This video was very simple, easy to understand, and gave all the relevant information in a well constructed manner. I’ll be turning to your channel for answers first from now on. Much appreciated.
Thank you so look much!!! That was such a quick, easy fix to our ongoing issue. We were told we needed a new tank. The pressure was at about 54 psi, brought it down to 38 and now everything is running better than ever!! Thank you again!
I have city water but live up a hill and about 2000 feet from the water meter. I have a pump in a pump house about 1000 feet from the water meter that pushes the water up the hill, and then a water pressure booster under the house in the crawlspace (DruaMac brand). I am noticing that when I flush the toilet too many times in a row, too rapidly, the water turns off and I have to power cycle the water pressure booster (by turning on/off the GFCI it is connected to) and then it works again. Similar behavior when I run a load of laundry with a front load washer (the valves opening and closing for the washing machine seem to trip up the water pump and the pump turns off, and then I have to again reset the GFCI it's connected to). If I turn the water valves connected to the washer to halfway I can run a load without it killing the water, but I dare not use the sink or flush the toilet at the same time! Any idea what might be happening? Thanks so much, love the content!
Great video, best one I’ve seen so far, and so far I have watched about a dozen or more. There was no extra added BS of useless info, just straight to the point. I can’t express enough how that sidebar graphic helped. I’m a visual person and it really put it into perspective how the range of both of the adjustments work and the result of adjusting them in relation to each other. It was a very nice touch that made all the difference for me. Now I feel that I completely know how this unit works. My intended use for this unit is to incorporate it inline with my Aquaponic system, Koi ponds and swimming pool. I will be using this unit to help keep pressure to a garden hose for watering plants around the yard (with the help of an 1/2hp 1500gph external water transfer pump) with the water source coming from either the Swimming pool, Koi ponds or Aquaponic system. I’m hoping to be able to continuously have adequate pressure (40 to 60psi) down the line of the hose and yet have the pump turn off whenever the garden nozzle is temporarily of shut off. It’ll make having to carry 5 gallon buckets around the property a thing of the past hopefully. Thanks again.
Such a helpful video! I appreciate you getting right to the point. First-time well owner, and immediately found problems: switch settings were 30-50, pressure tank was down to 15 and adjusting that to 28 solved it! Hypothetical question out of pure curiosity - what if your pressure tank was inflated to a higher psi than 2 minus the cut-in psi? For example if the tank was inflated to 38 whereas your switch settings were 30-50? My guess is the pump would never turn on? Thanks again!
I believe you are correct...because the pump switch would stay satisfied at 38 psi. It's not until the tank pressure reaches a low of 30 psi that the switch would activate the pump. 28 psi ensures a margin of error in pressure switch activation
My system was working, but the pressure would drop to zero before the pump cut in. I tried adjusting the air pressure in the tank, but no matter what I did, nothing worked. After running the pump up and down about a dozen times for testing, the pressure suddenly went through my top setting of 50psi and was heading past 65psi before I could flip the CB. I took the pressure switch off and found the inlet was blocked with rust and other slimy stuff. I carefully took the adapter off the pressure sensor and cleaned everything. I readjusted the tank pressure to 28psi (two pounds below switch cut in) and when I turned the pump back on, huzzah, it worked just as it was supposed to.
If leaking air from the valve thus causing the tank pressure setting to drop... replace the air (Schrader) valve. If leaking water from the air valve... replace the pressure tank!
Mine also looks like leaking. I can hear the air bleeds out sometimes when i fill it with air. What sort of stem is it? I need to order one. is it easy to replace it?
@@Sean-Aviation It's exactly the same as a car or bicycle (or lawn mower, or snow blower, etc.) tire. So get down to the auto parts store and buy a couple valve cores. There ought to be an included tool that fits into the valve and interfaces with the core. Just unscew the old, and screw in the new.
Great video, but you should have mentioned that the ambient temperature of the tank affects the air pressure inside it. So, if it is in area that sees a large variation of temperature between say, Summer and Winter, then the tank pressure would need to be checked regularly as the pressure is going to go up in the warmer months and down in the cooler months. this very well could affect your cut in in the warmer months if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.
@1960gambit - Good tip about change in temp during each season affecting ambient pressure. Wonder if the 2 psi margin accounts for most of this seasonal change? When you state " if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.", that is true, but when someone uses water, like starts watering the garden, or drawing a bath, the system water pressure would drop below the cut-in pressure as the bladder tank would be empty of water at that point, so the pump would start supplying water and charging the bladder tank.
You guys are the BEST at explaining everything well, pump, pressure switch & anything related to a well for us novice diyers to understand. Keep up the great work!
Pressure started surging, gauge up and down...plumbers replaced switch, still doing it. Then I found this video after looking more into tanks at lowes & HD, and after thinking it's the switch and all. So, this video and all the specs and info on pre-pressurized, air pressure...I had no idea. But, now I do. With the info in this video, I checked the air pressure in the tank, and the tank/switch is set for 30-50 psi. The pressure in the tank was at LEAST 60 psi. Wow. No wonder it wasn't working right. I backed the pressure to 28, and now it's working right again. How the pressure got that high, or how long it was like that...let's just say the builder, from top to bottom, didn't do things right. I've had to learn to fix a lot of things, also, due to lackof good help in this area. So, thank YOU very much for this video, and it helped me troubleshoot and fix what could have cost a lot more than a new switch, which was, in fact, probably needed.
You're most welcome Troy! Glad we could help you solve your pump issues, it motivates us to keep putting out these help videos. We're just a phone call away if you need any technical advice or help with your water system. Cheers!
Great Help. My problem was the pressure in the tank. I was down to zero with the 5 gallon tank empty of water and the power off. Since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I put air in the tank to 28 and problem solved for now. My sprinklers are working just fine and the motor is not turning off and on. I will watch to see if my tank pressure drops in the future.
Thank you for the help! The short cycling was due to low bladder pressure. Turning off the well breaker and draining water with a faucet allowed me to get a good pressure reading. Added the air to raise the psi to the proper level has worked!!!
Great video!! I have a question. I have a 5 gal tank and a 40/60 switch, with the pump and tank on the ground floor of a 4 storey house, 2 bathrooms on the 4th floor. The pressure on the 4th floor is a bit low. What pressure setting would you suggest I increase the switch to, to improve the pressure on the 4th floor?
Fantastic Video! I recently replaced my control box and during the diagnostic process, I let some air pressure out of my tank. I re-pressurized it to 28 PSI using your instructions, but now the tank isn't coming up to high pressure when I put water back in. After draining it at the bottom valve and the outside valve, I close it off, open the valve from the pump, turn it on and it pumps water in, but maxes out at about 42 PSI and just continues to run without reaching 50 (does not shut off). When I drain it again, not a lot of water comes out compare to when I first drained it (it's a 32 gallon tank). Any ideas on how to get it to fill and back up to pressure? Thanks!
@@freshavocadew I called the professional who told me to replace the control box. He walked me through reducing the cutoff pressure on the control switch a bit. I have lower pressure now, but it’s working for now. I will probably replace the pump next spring. My system is only for my outside plumbing, so it isn’t urgent.
@@haugenbp Did you also reduce the cut-in pressure or just lowered the cut-off? Did you replace your switch as well? Was it your pump that couldn't reach a pressure higher than 42 psi or was it something wrong with your switch? Thanks for the reply btw.
@@freshavocadew yes, I also reduced the cut in pressure a little. No I did not replace the switch. Yes, the pump could no longer reach the 50 psi, so I reduced it to just below what it could reach it didn’t continuously run. It’s 53 year old pump.
Hi, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a question. What symptoms are there if your air pressure is set to high? Say it's set at 28 lbs when it should be set at 18 lbs for a 20 pound cut in. Thank you
Good question. Your pressure tank will only hold water in it if the air pressure is LOWER than the system pressure. For your example, when you're using water and the system pressure falls to 28 PSI, your pressure tank will have pushed all the water out and the pressure will immediately drop to 0. If it is set correctly at 18 PSI, your tank will still have a small amount of water in it when the pump turns on, meaning you're utilizing the full 20 PSI range instead of just 12 PSI (28-40) that you had when the tank was set incorrectly. A tank set too high will cause the pump to cycle much more often and wear out sooner.
We just bought our house and I have been having pressure issues and luckily I found your channel. Thanks to this very informative video I was able to quickly identify that we have a 30/50 psi switch. I verified that it was still set to 30/50, drained the tank and found that it was at 48 psi!! It's now set at 28 psi, the water level in the tank has more than doubled (based on the outside condensation level on the tank) and the pressure has been much more consistent. Thanks again and I will be checking out more of your videos.
So once the pressure is drained completely by opening a valve or nearest faucet, before you add air if needed should I close that valve/faucet or leave it open? Thanks.
Most tees have a water pressure gauge. This is really all you need to monitor the system without having to drain it and check set air pressure. As Chris said, run the water until the pressure is reaches at least 2 psi below the low setting of pressure switchand the pump cuts on...and cuts off at high setting of pressure switch. As I understand it, if that happens, your tank pressure is good. Remember, tank preset air pressure is set when tank is empty and pump is off. Having a gauge that monitors working pressure in tank is fairly useless as that is not the air pressure condition in the tank when the system is operating.
Thank you, after replacing my pressure gauge it was cutting off at 60 psi and I thought it was wrong. My old one was going to 45 and leaking. I assumed it was wrong then realized the old gauge was just bad. I am a do-it-yourself and have no real knowledge of plumbing. I appreciate you-tubers that post this information. Saved me tons of money.
My pressure tank is buried under the ground about 4 ft from my well it is a model fl7 I don't see a remote location with a Schrader valve to check the pressure. Do I have to dig up the ground and find the pressure tank?
Thank you sir 👍👍 I had adjusted my pressure tank about 18 months ago and wanted to be sure I was doing it right . The first time I messed with it I had it all screwed up then somebody told me the proper way but I just couldn't remember all the details for sure. Cheers friend 😎 and I did subscribe and hit the bell 🚬
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. my pressure tank is adjusted correctly . My pressure switch is a 30/50 setting but I'm only getting 4 gallons a minute flow out of a 5/8 hose that's approximately 200 feet away. Maybe I need to do a GPM test at the well manifold ...... ❓
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I did a GPM test off of my well manifold and I'm getting over 12 gallons a minute after cut in so I don't think I have a problem with my well. I guess if I want volume at that distance I need to run a dedicated inch and a quarter supply line and avoid things like a five gang hose manifold and go full port valves ha ha 😂
We are buying a home in the northern peninsula of Michigan near Marenisco. We will use the home for the summers. The owner said we will need to hire a plumber to shut down the house approx. in early-Nov ($200) and the bring it back up around April/May ($200). The owner said the private water well is not deep, so I think it is a shallow sand-point well. I am guessing he will have to shut down the water tank, which is a Well-X-Trol? What about other things to shut down and bring back up?
I’ve noticed that the operating tank pressure range is usually 20 lbs. my switch comes on at about 30 and cuts out at about 62.....for a 30 lb. range. Is this normal or ok? I realize my pump is working a little longer to replace 30 lbs of water pressure instead of 20, but also it is not coming on as often because of the larger range. Thoughts on this?
A 30 psi differential instead of 20 psi will wear out the tank bladder faster since it has to stretch more each cycle. There is also not as much water being stored for every psi increase at the high end (diminishing returns). I wouldn't go more than 25 psi differential personally. If you go 30 psi instead of 20 psi differential, maybe the tank lasts 10 years instead of 20 for example.
Thanks for answering all these questions that people post. I've been watching videos for weeks now and haven't seen this issue. The sad part is I've been a city slicker for 40+ years and never had to deal with these problems. Now I've been out in the country for 8 years and probably should have checked into this sooner.When the house inspector went thru he pointed at the pressure gauge and said " 40 lbs. that's a good pressure to be at. A couple of months ago we noticed the pressure dropped. After checking the gauge it was @ 35 lbs. I started to investigate this on You Tube only to find that the gauge is actually suppose to go up & down within 20 psi. Ours never does. We also never hear the switch clicking, but in the shower you can tell the pressure going up & down.Also looking at the pressure tank which is a Red Lion RL202(discontinued) don't know if this is a diaphram tank or bladder. Looking @ Water Worker tanks.They recommend 62 gallon tank instead of the current 20 gallon one I have. I'm thinking that I'm probably better just to replace all them parts and know that everything is up to snuff. Is this the best solution? Thanks for your time & would appreciate opinion.
It's always a good to have a larger pressure tank, but it really depends on the flow/hp of your pump to determine the "minimum" size required. If you can, give us a call and we can help you decide what to replace: 855.329.4519
I’ve purchased a zilmet pressure tank. It was damaged during shipping, has a 1” indentation by 2 “ wide near bottom where round meets straight upper part. Do you think the bladder will prematurely fail from rubbing over time. What are your thoughts on zilmet? I can send pictures if needed. Thanks Neil
As somebody who has been commissioning commercial systems for years, your recommendations and your numbers are spot-on. Too many people don't drain the water pressure off the tank before filling the air side. That is critical to proper operation. On a side note, the older tanks didn't have a bladder and over a period of time, the air that's in the tank is assimilated into the water and requires repressurization. The techniques for setting pressure on these tanks is a little different. I like to have the switch kick in I got about a 1/3 tank level and shut off no more than a 2/3 full tank level. This can be determined by the sweat on the outside of the tank, or by rapping on the side to determine the level. The same technique works on compression tanks with sight glasses. Heating system 1/3 full when cold. Cooling systems two-thirds full when warm. Once again tank completely empty before filling. Most commercial compression tanks don't provide a Schrader valve for adjusting air pressure. It would be nice if they did because over time, not only does the water assimilate the air but the air tends to leak out the rubbers on the sight glass. Thank you for an informative and correct method of determining the proper pressures.
A youtube tutorial video with accurate and useful information? Doesn't this guy know that to fit in with all the other youtubers, the only guys who make how to videos are guys who have no idea " how to "do the thing they are making the video about .
I'm confused. You say to open a faucet anywhere in the house. I did that and the system drained empty. Then I opened the faucet on the tank tee assembly. The water drained out relatively slowly, with lots of glubs as air entered in to replace the water coming out from the tank. Was it unnecessary to empty the tank, or can you get by with just zero pressure reading from the rest of the household plumbing? Also how accurate must the tire gauge be? What if it's off by one or 2 psi, or 3 or 4?
The pressure is what you need to drain, if there is a little water leftover in the pipe that is fine as long as you pressure gauge reads 0 psi. The best method to check the pressure is with a digital gauge, but a tire gauge should get you close enough if you don't have a digital one. Thanks for the questions!
My pump seems to kick on at 21psi ? That seems low does it not? My issue is my water pressure doesn't seems to be very powerful. It is at first but then dies off. I watch gauge at tank and it kicks on around 21psi and kicks off at 38psi
Thank you for explaining this so well! As a pump serviceman I always explained everything that you have shown! Many people inadvertently checked the pressure in the accumulator when the pump had pumped up to cut out pressure which is wrong! More often than not I would always remove the tank from the pumping system to get a correct pressure in the accumulator! On the smaller accumulators sometimes the diaphragm had inverted itself & in that case it could be reverted back to it’s original position with the aide of something small like a large strong stick the could be placed in the inlet side being the (bottom of the tank) saving the customer buying a new accumulator! Or in some instances connecting air pressure & blowing the diaphragm backwards but in doing that the Schrader valve needed to be removed to allow the air to be discharged from the top side of the tank! Nine times out of ten the water wouldn’t drain out of the tank in your suggestion because it takes so much pressure to push out that remaining water from the system! But the drain tap at the base of the intake sounds like a much better option for the novice home handyman!
I've spent literally almost 4 days of living hell rebuilding an entire well house system in high humid temps. Replaced a jet pump with a submersible. For some reason my pump on a 30-50 psi pressure switch will not " cut -out" ? Still not sure why that terminology is used. Its confusing. Not sure why its not said that the pump doesn't shut of and on or the pump doesn't turn on and off? Anyway I put a 75 psi pressure switch on the Tank T or cross or whatever your terminology is. Pump never cycles off. Continues to build up pressure until the relief vale opens. I want to say its the pressure switch needing adjustment, but it was brand new from the store. Hope you can help. I'll be at it again tomorrow trouble shooting the system some more.
Air permeates through the diaphragm at a microscopic level. As the tank cycles get olders, the passageways for that air to escape get larger and larger until a hole develops.
Hi thanks for the info and love your videos! I have holding tanks that produce 26 PSI of head pressure to my system. I have to close the inbound water line to the pressure pump from the holding tanks or the water will just run until the tanks go dry. My question is; after I have adjusted the pressure in the bladder tank do I open the inbound water valve first or turn the power back on to the pressure pump first then open the inbound water valve? Does it even matter? Also, my pressure tank seems to need this service a couple times per year...is this normal?
Where you ever able to get a answer to your issue or did he just tell everyone to leave a comment and answer no one's questions? I have just got the well X trol 255 with a30/50 switch i don't believe the plumber hooked it up correctly and it with all these questions people have asked having 30/50 switches if he would answer them I believe i can handle it but all I seeare a bunch of unanswered questions on here
@@jeremyt.8981 Nah, never got an answer. I just open the water supply first then turn on the pressure pump so it doesn’t pump dry for any length of time. I did move my pressure switch hose to a T off of the bladder tank piping. This solved my pressure pump’s chattering starts and stops.
Thanks for the explanation - super clear! Quick question - when adjusting cut in/out pressures is it better to set your tank bladder pressure first (ie. 38psi for a 40/60 setting) or set your switch first, then the tank, or does it matter? thanks
We have a grey xtrol #15 pressure tank on our Hydronic in-floor heating system. We had a purge service done last summer (2017) [exchange solution] and the system held pressure all summer. This year (2018) the system came on and functioned normally, holding about 12 pounds of line pressure. Lately the line pressure is at 0 at rest and comes up to about 8 - 10 pounds when heating. One video suggested tapping on the tank to determine if the tank is water logged. I did so and get a thunk on the top half and a ting on the bottom half (sound of a empty 1 pound propane bottle) Question: Can the stem filler valve bleed air out the bottom reducing system pressure? Your assistance or anyone's assistance would be appreciated. Thank you
Thank you. Just replace the pressure gauge and checked the pressure in the tank. It was 11 psi. Added air to 38 psi for our 40/60 gauge and it worked. Thank you so very much!
Thank you thank you thank you. We have been living with the tank clicking for so long now even when we flushed the tolit it would click about 10 times. We have never had a well before
Hey y’all, I have one that I just installed, and when the well pump cuts off it makes like a click, click, click noise in the area of the Square D Pumptroll, and ideas on what this could be? Thank you
Great! But what about when your tank has NO VALVE to add or subtract air pressure, or valve to empty water? I need to change my pressure switch which basically melted. I have never in my life seen a tank/pump/system with no valves or ability to drain water, or add or subtract air pressure… Mine is the damndest thing I’ve ever seen! 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Hi i would like some help with my water pump .....when i am not using water it stays pressured as normal but as soon as i start using water it lose all the pressure in a sec or two the gage runs back down to zero an stop pumping any water when i turn off all the valves on the output end of the pump it bills back up the pressure an turns off as normal....can some tell me what is wrong please????
Maria, it sounds like your pressure tank is waterlogged and needs to be replaced. If you press in the air valve and water comes out it's a sure sign that it's bad. We have Welltrol pressure tanks that come with 7-year warranties on our website: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol/Well-X-Trol-c225.html
I replaced the pressure switch. After the tank was completely empty I filled it with 38 pounds of air pressure. Did a little experiment. As long as the valve that let the water in the tank provide me with water is CLOSED I have no issues with high pressure readings inside the tank. As soon as I open the valve , I notice that slowly the pressure inside the tank goes up 65, 70, 80.... The water from the city I am connected to is making its way inside the tank, I think. But how? I have 2 one way valves in the tube that goes to the tank to avoid precisely this. Maybe they're defective. What do you think? And again, Thanks.
bladder busted...you filled the WHOLE tank , down to the pump with 38psi(no bladder)andf when u let the water on, water comes in raising it???? water level in well has risen?and the pump is much deeper now causing water pressure???? wow...are u sure? how did u fix this???
Can anybody help me with the problem I am facing ...!.. After installing the pressure pump, toilet flush value beacme very hard as if it is pushing some air stuck inside the pipe and water outlet from the flush value is also less. All other pipes are having good pressure outlet except the flush value.
Question: my 2 tanks are at at 41 and 44 when I drain the system. BUT the switch pressure is 37. It cuts in but stops at 37. How can it be lower than the tank?
Thank you for explaining this, so if I am checking an existing pressure do I need to drain it as well? Or can I just turn off the power, and empty the system and opening a faucet?
What do you mean "cut in" pressure? I have a bladder tank which pre charged with 2 bars but my pressure switch is set to 20/40. I notice that the pressure doesn't rise up. What is the problem here? I hope someone help me. Thanks in advanced!
Great information.. I have a similar pump and tank ... I'm having an issue with the system not pressuring up. The pump works and builds pressure, but it will not pressure up to 30 psi at the pressure Tank to even fill the pressure tank. I do have a gauge installed before the tank, to monitor pressure. The water supply is coming off of a 15 foot deep x 4 foot wide holding tank in the ground . My original question, is why would it seem to be acting like it's sucking air? ... I have primed the pump and from the pump up to the pressure tank, I have clear plastic line, so I can see the bubbles .. but I might add, ( I'm not sure if it matters) the guy who installed the system, has the pump mounted 4 feet below the pressure tank, so it has to pump up to the pressure tank first. At first he thought maybe my pump was no good, and installed another pump that he has, that he knew was a good pump, but had the same issue, so put mine back in. Any advice you could offer, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. And great video
Hi, thank for your video, it's very helful! i just want to confirm one thing - after cutting off power for my pump I opening the faucet (wait till the water will stop blow off), then pump the air by air compresor (with the faucet still opened?) and during pumping I need to wait until the water stop draining from the faucet? So this is normal that initially only part of water will blow off and then another part during pumping? So pumping help to blow off the rest of the water because of higher pressure, am I right? When all the water will blown off I will see 'real' current pressure? Thanks for your support :)
Here's my issue: When I turn on the water it comes out high pressure, then about 20 seconds later it turns to a trickle. I've adjusted the pressure switch to 40/60. I've set the pressure tank at 38psi. The gauge says 60 psi, turn the water on, comes out fully blast, then quickly it gets to 50 psi turns into a trickle, then it take forever for it to get to 40 psi to turn the pump back on. Any idea?
@@jeffl7387 It was the tank, which I thought was odd because it sounded hollow when I tapped it. But, I talked to some people at the local True Value, and he said the only thing that could be wrong in that scenario is the pressure tank. I replaced it, and initially didn't have any pressure. Then I called a well service and they said if I have an inline filter that I need to change that too if I change the pressure tank. So I put a new filter in and I've got full pressure. So I would try changing your house filter first if you have one, and then try a new tank. Or do both, but change the tank then the house filter. I think it has to do with the suction the filter creates, but I'm not certain. I've got pressure like the city now!
I had my rusty WX-202 replaced with a WX-203 and a new complete pressure kit rated at 30-50. The installers replaced it all but didn't check anything, pressure wise. Should I be worried?
Hello. My husband just put in a new pressure tank and followed the install directions that came with it. Piped it the way the old one was and even added a new pressure gauge, since before we didn't have one, but for some reason, there is no pressure showing on the gauge, but the pump is running and the pipes are cold. What would be the reason the water is not coming through our plumbing fixtures? Is there something that he forgot to do or still fix?
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
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I'm grateful for the help. These kind of videos never go "viral", but they are the only thing keeping UA-cam remotely useful. Thank you.
Ted, I am Chris' uncle and one of the owners of our company. I have been following your videos for a long time and a few years back, pulled the trigger (so to speak) on an FX Impact and Element scope. Your videos are always top notch. What a small world. If you're ever in N. Idaho, please drop by.
It went viral 😂
Yes it is the ONLY thing UA-cam is good for.. The Shadow banning is out of control. Any and all information regarding politics is convoluted and skewed (Google as well) if you try to find any negative although truthful information on the Democratic nominees you won't find it. It's really bad now bc of the upcoming election. A lot of conservatives are going over to rumble and X bc there's way less censoring of conservative speech.✌🏼🇺🇸💪🏼
Unless they quit selling them,or ordering, you don't throw your tank away,easy repair,empty and take tank out, turn upside down, take all nuts off, take out bladder, put in new one, install and set pressure, I keep one on hand, have had a well for 50 years. , Roll up bladder like a newspaper,easy to replace.
Thanks for making this video! I installed a large accumulator in my motorhome last year to keep the pump from cycling all the time. I set the pressure, but did not realize that the tank should be empty first! This turned out to be a game-changer because I had it at 36 PSI when full and when it was empty it read 4 PSI - so, wrong, wrong, and wrong. It's now set correctly. Without this video, I would never have known. Thanks very much!
Same thing was done by me.
Just some facts from an old guy. The air valve on top of the tank is called a "schrader valve"
Another old guy here thinking the same thing... waiting for him to identify it as a Schrader valve. I later decided his ultimate goal was to keep the video as non technical as possible and avoid confusion for those people who are less than handy. That said... knowing its a Schrader valve is key in the event you ever need to purchase a new "valve stem" for a leaking valve.
A beneficial thing knowing its a Schrader valve and "not a Presta valve" which is the other common valve found on bicycle tires.
He may not know the actual name of the valve or its core.
@@eltonnoway5692 I also loved the pressure checker term, lol.
@@eltonnoway5692 nor was the hot water line from the boiler valve shutoff step mentioned but definitely on point otherwise.
@@AraceaeFanatics No, he's said it in other videos. I believe he was just trying to avoid making it too complicated for most homeowners.
why there is not one built in pressure gauge on top of the blue tank?
Finally ! To the point and easy to follow. Thanks ! My well pump was cycling on and off very quickly. Turns out the pressure in my pressure tank was almost zero. (Apparently being in a basement with huge temperature swings can cause this?) I added the correct air pressure, and all is working properly now. Thanks again !! Was afraid I needed a new pressure tank.
You need to check the tank pressure once a year, maybe twice a year if your pressure tank is the old style galvanized tank without a diaphragm. If the water and air aren't separated by a barrier of some sort, then the air mixes with the water over time and you lose the air. Diaphragm tanks just lose the air over time, nothing is completely air tight forever. Checking the air and maintaining the correct pressure ensures the pump doesn't short cycle like yours was doing. That can burn your pump up if you let it go for very long. Pumping water actually cools a submersible pump, so the longer it runs after it turns on, the better it is for the pump motor. My well guy told me that, and he said when watering the yard or garden that it's better to run two sprinklers instead of one, that way the pump runs for a very long time before it turns off, if at all.
What are the symptoms of having the pressure in your tank too high or too low. e.g. on a 40-60 tank, what are the systems if your pressure was only 32, or if your pressure was 45? This would be useful to know so if we see that symptom, we know to check the pressure (vs it being something completely different)
This is how a "How to Vid" is ment to be. Proper and well explained, easy to follow info. Thank You
Thanks for the kind words! :)
...and not 35 minutes long
It don't pose to be that way
Lol
Thank you! A great video: clear, succinct, logical and structured. I have been able to fix my house water pump system and all is well again. Saved me the usual "rip out and replace" solution, so something good has been done as well for sustainability and avoiding more landfill. Super! I am grateful.
This guy is awesome ! extremely well explained! There are many people that are great at their jobs but there aren't many that have the ability to teach it. This guys definitely has that gift. Thanks for the vid
Thanks for watching!
Yes. I have been listening to his videos. He knows what he's talking about you takes his time to explain it to you and details than enough that I can understand. I do have one question though. My prompt was almost completely dry before it kicks in again. Is that because of the pressure
how can i test in built submersible pump Moisture sensor
It’s 2024 and I’m a contractor/homeowner.
This video was very simple, easy to understand, and gave all the relevant information in a well constructed manner. I’ll be turning to your channel for answers first from now on.
Much appreciated.
Thank you so look much!!! That was such a quick, easy fix to our ongoing issue. We were told we needed a new tank. The pressure was at about 54 psi, brought it down to 38 and now everything is running better than ever!! Thank you again!
You bet! Glad we were able to help. :)
was that with an empty tank barry ????
Raymond J I would be interested in a response to your question also!
This is me after I actually read the pressure switch’s cut in and cut off
This was a “well” done how-to video. I’m so pumped to get my system working.
Tank you very much!
Edit: Sorry couldn’t resist.
Glad it helped!
@@RCworstwater No pressure.
So long boiled water - you will be mist 🤗
If you want the Worst service don't watch this video because this guy is the Best!
My pressure guage reads 20psi when the tank is empty
Great job on the explanation, thumbs up.
👍👍
This is the most clear procedure and required pressure I've been able to find on the web. Well done R.C. Worst!
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, super clear and told me exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Thanks for watchin!
I have city water but live up a hill and about 2000 feet from the water meter. I have a pump in a pump house about 1000 feet from the water meter that pushes the water up the hill, and then a water pressure booster under the house in the crawlspace (DruaMac brand).
I am noticing that when I flush the toilet too many times in a row, too rapidly, the water turns off and I have to power cycle the water pressure booster (by turning on/off the GFCI it is connected to) and then it works again.
Similar behavior when I run a load of laundry with a front load washer (the valves opening and closing for the washing machine seem to trip up the water pump and the pump turns off, and then I have to again reset the GFCI it's connected to). If I turn the water valves connected to the washer to halfway I can run a load without it killing the water, but I dare not use the sink or flush the toilet at the same time!
Any idea what might be happening? Thanks so much, love the content!
Finally a useful and comprehensive video. Answered many questions I had before testing my tank. Thanks guys.
Thanks for watching!
the cringey sales pitch omg
Great video, best one I’ve seen so far, and so far I have watched about a dozen or more. There was no extra added BS of useless info, just straight to the point. I can’t express enough how that sidebar graphic helped. I’m a visual person and it really put it into perspective how the range of both of the adjustments work and the result of adjusting them in relation to each other. It was a very nice touch that made all the difference for me. Now I feel that I completely know how this unit works. My intended use for this unit is to incorporate it inline with my Aquaponic system, Koi ponds and swimming pool. I will be using this unit to help keep pressure to a garden hose for watering plants around the yard (with the help of an 1/2hp 1500gph external water transfer pump) with the water source coming from either the Swimming pool, Koi ponds or Aquaponic system. I’m hoping to be able to continuously have adequate pressure (40 to 60psi) down the line of the hose and yet have the pump turn off whenever the garden nozzle is temporarily of shut off. It’ll make having to carry 5 gallon buckets around the property a thing of the past hopefully. Thanks again.
Very helpful Thanks, you saved me a service call.
Happy to hear it!
Such a helpful video! I appreciate you getting right to the point. First-time well owner, and immediately found problems: switch settings were 30-50, pressure tank was down to 15 and adjusting that to 28 solved it! Hypothetical question out of pure curiosity - what if your pressure tank was inflated to a higher psi than 2 minus the cut-in psi? For example if the tank was inflated to 38 whereas your switch settings were 30-50? My guess is the pump would never turn on? Thanks again!
I believe you are correct...because the pump switch would stay satisfied at 38 psi. It's not until the tank pressure reaches a low of 30 psi that the switch would activate the pump. 28 psi ensures a margin of error in pressure switch activation
My system was working, but the pressure would drop to zero before the pump cut in. I tried adjusting the air pressure in the tank, but no matter what I did, nothing worked. After running the pump up and down about a dozen times for testing, the pressure suddenly went through my top setting of 50psi and was heading past 65psi before I could flip the CB. I took the pressure switch off and found the inlet was blocked with rust and other slimy stuff. I carefully took the adapter off the pressure sensor and cleaned everything. I readjusted the tank pressure to 28psi (two pounds below switch cut in) and when I turned the pump back on, huzzah, it worked just as it was supposed to.
Nice Job!
I noticed my valve stem was leaking. I changed the stem and then set the air pressure and it's working fine now. Thanks.
Happy to hear this video helped you fix your issues!
If leaking air from the valve thus causing the tank pressure setting to drop... replace the air (Schrader) valve. If leaking water from the air valve... replace the pressure tank!
Mine also looks like leaking. I can hear the air bleeds out sometimes when i fill it with air. What sort of stem is it? I need to order one. is it easy to replace it?
@@Sean-Aviation It's exactly the same as a car or bicycle (or lawn mower, or snow blower, etc.) tire. So get down to the auto parts store and buy a couple valve cores. There ought to be an included tool that fits into the valve and interfaces with the core. Just unscew the old, and screw in the new.
Great video, but you should have mentioned that the ambient temperature of the tank affects the air pressure inside it. So, if it is in area that sees a large variation of temperature between say, Summer and Winter, then the tank pressure would need to be checked regularly as the pressure is going to go up in the warmer months and down in the cooler months. this very well could affect your cut in in the warmer months if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.
Good tip!
@1960gambit - Good tip about change in temp during each season affecting ambient pressure. Wonder if the 2 psi margin accounts for most of this seasonal change?
When you state " if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.", that is true, but when someone uses water, like starts watering the garden, or drawing a bath, the system water pressure would drop below the cut-in pressure as the bladder tank would be empty of water at that point, so the pump would start supplying water and charging the bladder tank.
You guys are the BEST at explaining everything well, pump, pressure switch & anything related to a well for us novice diyers to understand. Keep up the great work!
Thanks!!
@@RCworstwater 00pp was
This dude is the best, nothing funny, fancy or intriguing, just knowledge for those of us who need it. Love it!
Excellent video all the way around! Thank you! Checking my tanks today :)
Good luck!
Pressure started surging, gauge up and down...plumbers replaced switch, still doing it. Then I found this video after looking more into tanks at lowes & HD, and after thinking it's the switch and all. So, this video and all the specs and info on pre-pressurized, air pressure...I had no idea. But, now I do. With the info in this video, I checked the air pressure in the tank, and the tank/switch is set for 30-50 psi. The pressure in the tank was at LEAST 60 psi. Wow. No wonder it wasn't working right. I backed the pressure to 28, and now it's working right again. How the pressure got that high, or how long it was like that...let's just say the builder, from top to bottom, didn't do things right. I've had to learn to fix a lot of things, also, due to lackof good help in this area. So, thank YOU very much for this video, and it helped me troubleshoot and fix what could have cost a lot more than a new switch, which was, in fact, probably needed.
You're most welcome Troy! Glad we could help you solve your pump issues, it motivates us to keep putting out these help videos. We're just a phone call away if you need any technical advice or help with your water system. Cheers!
Troy W just watched the same video on water pumps. 😎👍
Can you replace the Schrader valve at the top of the tank? That is sometimes a weak link.
Great Help. My problem was the pressure in the tank. I was down to zero with the 5 gallon tank empty of water and the power off. Since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I put air in the tank to 28 and problem solved for now. My sprinklers are working just fine and the motor is not turning off and on. I will watch to see if my tank pressure drops in the future.
Glad to hear our video help you out! If you end up needing to replace the tank, we sell them on our site: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol/Well-X-Trol-c225.html
Thank you for the help! The short cycling was due to low bladder pressure. Turning off the well breaker and draining water with a faucet allowed me to get a good pressure reading. Added the air to raise the psi to the proper level has worked!!!
Thanks for the info! Very helpful, straight forward, and easy to understand!!
Great video!! I have a question. I have a 5 gal tank and a 40/60 switch, with the pump and tank on the ground floor of a 4 storey house, 2 bathrooms on the 4th floor. The pressure on the 4th floor is a bit low. What pressure setting would you suggest I increase the switch to, to improve the pressure on the 4th floor?
A clogged 1/4" tube to the pressure sw. will cause erratic pressure & pump function
Correct!
Pete daividson fell fast
Call r.c worst.
What's the worst that can happen ?
Fantastic Video! I recently replaced my control box and during the diagnostic process, I let some air pressure out of my tank. I re-pressurized it to 28 PSI using your instructions, but now the tank isn't coming up to high pressure when I put water back in. After draining it at the bottom valve and the outside valve, I close it off, open the valve from the pump, turn it on and it pumps water in, but maxes out at about 42 PSI and just continues to run without reaching 50 (does not shut off). When I drain it again, not a lot of water comes out compare to when I first drained it (it's a 32 gallon tank). Any ideas on how to get it to fill and back up to pressure? Thanks!
I have the same problem. What did you do at the end?
@@freshavocadew I called the professional who told me to replace the control box. He walked me through reducing the cutoff pressure on the control switch a bit. I have lower pressure now, but it’s working for now. I will probably replace the pump next spring. My system is only for my outside plumbing, so it isn’t urgent.
@@haugenbp Did you also reduce the cut-in pressure or just lowered the cut-off? Did you replace your switch as well? Was it your pump that couldn't reach a pressure higher than 42 psi or was it something wrong with your switch? Thanks for the reply btw.
@@freshavocadew yes, I also reduced the cut in pressure a little. No I did not replace the switch. Yes, the pump could no longer reach the 50 psi, so I reduced it to just below what it could reach it didn’t continuously run. It’s 53 year old pump.
Hi, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to do them.
I have a question. What symptoms are there if your air pressure is set to high? Say it's set at 28 lbs when it should be set at 18 lbs for a 20 pound cut in. Thank you
Good question. Your pressure tank will only hold water in it if the air pressure is LOWER than the system pressure. For your example, when you're using water and the system pressure falls to 28 PSI, your pressure tank will have pushed all the water out and the pressure will immediately drop to 0. If it is set correctly at 18 PSI, your tank will still have a small amount of water in it when the pump turns on, meaning you're utilizing the full 20 PSI range instead of just 12 PSI (28-40) that you had when the tank was set incorrectly. A tank set too high will cause the pump to cycle much more often and wear out sooner.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. that makes sense to me. thank you for your time and help. Joe
@@keepingtdream I would direct these questions to the technician that is servicing your tank.
So at what point are you actually going to show us HOW TO check the pressure.
Turn the breaker off, drain the tank thru a faucet, check the pressure just like you do on your car tires...
Very informative, good training video.
What is the purpose of giving pressure "above" the diapragma inside the pressure tank (which is 2 psi lower than cutt-in pressure) ? Thank you.
The air holds water under pressure. Without it the pump would turn on every time you opened a tap.
We just bought our house and I have been having pressure issues and luckily I found your channel. Thanks to this very informative video I was able to quickly identify that we have a 30/50 psi switch. I verified that it was still set to 30/50, drained the tank and found that it was at 48 psi!! It's now set at 28 psi, the water level in the tank has more than doubled (based on the outside condensation level on the tank) and the pressure has been much more consistent. Thanks again and I will be checking out more of your videos.
Thanks my friend ..you're a good man helping out those who really need it
Thank you well information due to diaphragm expansion vessel.
Thanks for watching!
So once the pressure is drained completely by opening a valve or nearest faucet, before you add air if needed should I close that valve/faucet or leave it open? Thanks.
Doesn't matter either way since the pump is off, no pressure should be present.
Great vid told me just what I needed to thanks.
What they need is a pressure gauge on the air pressure valve. That would make spot checks easier.
Most tees have a water pressure gauge. This is really all you need to monitor the system without having to drain it and check set air pressure. As Chris said, run the water until the pressure is reaches at least 2 psi below the low setting of pressure switchand the pump cuts on...and cuts off at high setting of pressure switch. As I understand it, if that happens, your tank pressure is good. Remember, tank preset air pressure is set when tank is empty and pump is off. Having a gauge that monitors working pressure in tank is fairly useless as that is not the air pressure condition in the tank when the system is operating.
Thank you, after replacing my pressure gauge it was cutting off at 60 psi and I thought it was wrong. My old one was going to 45 and leaking. I assumed it was wrong then realized the old gauge was just bad. I am a do-it-yourself and have no real knowledge of plumbing. I appreciate you-tubers that post this information. Saved me tons of money.
Thanks for the comment Ann, we're glad you found it useful! :)
Dido and thank you 😊 much
My pressure tank is buried under the ground about 4 ft from my well it is a model fl7 I don't see a remote location with a Schrader valve to check the pressure. Do I have to dig up the ground and find the pressure tank?
Great explanation sir !
This is the Worst video I've ever seen. As in Worst & Co. 😄
Thank you sir 👍👍 I had adjusted my pressure tank about 18 months ago and wanted to be sure I was doing it right . The first time I messed with it I had it all screwed up then somebody told me the proper way but I just couldn't remember all the details for sure. Cheers friend 😎 and I did subscribe and hit the bell 🚬
Thanks for subscribing! We're happy the video helped you out!
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. my pressure tank is adjusted correctly . My pressure switch is a 30/50 setting but I'm only getting 4 gallons a minute flow out of a 5/8 hose that's approximately 200 feet away. Maybe I need to do a GPM test at the well manifold ...... ❓
If you getting 4 GPM out of a 200 foot 5/8" hose that sounds about right. The longer/smaller your supply line gets the less GPM you will get from it.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I did a GPM test off of my well manifold and I'm getting over 12 gallons a minute after cut in so I don't think I have a problem with my well. I guess if I want volume at that distance I need to run a dedicated inch and a quarter supply line and avoid things like a five gang hose manifold and go full port valves ha ha 😂
You are correct! :)
Let it be known. I mentioned my pump tank in a private phone call only. THis video popped up without my seeking any information.
GREAT information thanks.
Thanks for the comment Bob!
We are buying a home in the northern peninsula of Michigan near Marenisco. We will use the home for the summers. The owner said we will need to hire a plumber to shut down the house approx. in early-Nov ($200) and the bring it back up around April/May ($200). The owner said the private water well is not deep, so I think it is a shallow sand-point well. I am guessing he will have to shut down the water tank, which is a Well-X-Trol? What about other things to shut down and bring back up?
Great information.
I’ve noticed that the operating tank pressure range is usually 20 lbs. my switch comes on at about 30 and cuts out at about 62.....for a 30 lb. range. Is this normal or ok? I realize my pump is working a little longer to replace 30 lbs of water pressure instead of 20, but also it is not coming on as often because of the larger range. Thoughts on this?
How long has it been like this? It is likely ok to leave like that if the lower pressure doesn't bother you.
A 30 psi differential instead of 20 psi will wear out the tank bladder faster since it has to stretch more each cycle. There is also not as much water being stored for every psi increase at the high end (diminishing returns). I wouldn't go more than 25 psi differential personally. If you go 30 psi instead of 20 psi differential, maybe the tank lasts 10 years instead of 20 for example.
@@TechnicalLee nice reply. Seems to make sense, similar to a car's mpg at 60 vs 70mph
Thanks for answering all these questions that people post. I've been watching videos for weeks now and haven't seen this issue. The sad part is I've been a city slicker for 40+ years and never had to deal with these problems. Now I've been out in the country for 8 years and probably should have checked into this sooner.When the house inspector went thru he pointed at the pressure gauge and said " 40 lbs. that's a good pressure to be at. A couple of months ago we noticed the pressure dropped. After checking the gauge it was @ 35 lbs. I started to investigate this on You Tube only to find that the gauge is actually suppose to go up & down within 20 psi. Ours never does. We also never hear the switch clicking, but in the shower you can tell the pressure going up & down.Also looking at the pressure tank which is a Red Lion RL202(discontinued) don't know if this is a diaphram tank or bladder. Looking @ Water Worker tanks.They recommend 62 gallon tank instead of the current 20 gallon one I have. I'm thinking that I'm probably better just to replace all them parts and know that everything is up to snuff. Is this the best solution? Thanks for your time & would appreciate opinion.
It's always a good to have a larger pressure tank, but it really depends on the flow/hp of your pump to determine the "minimum" size required. If you can, give us a call and we can help you decide what to replace: 855.329.4519
I’ve purchased a zilmet pressure tank. It was damaged during shipping, has a 1” indentation by 2 “ wide near bottom where round meets straight upper part. Do you think the bladder will prematurely fail from rubbing over time. What are your thoughts on zilmet? I can send pictures if needed. Thanks Neil
As somebody who has been commissioning commercial systems for years, your recommendations and your numbers are spot-on. Too many people don't drain the water pressure off the tank before filling the air side. That is critical to proper operation. On a side note, the older tanks didn't have a bladder and over a period of time, the air that's in the tank is assimilated into the water and requires repressurization. The techniques for setting pressure on these tanks is a little different. I like to have the switch kick in I got about a 1/3 tank level and shut off no more than a 2/3 full tank level. This can be determined by the sweat on the outside of the tank, or by rapping on the side to determine the level. The same technique works on compression tanks with sight glasses. Heating system 1/3 full when cold.
Cooling systems two-thirds full when warm. Once again tank completely empty before filling. Most commercial compression tanks don't provide a Schrader valve for adjusting air pressure. It would be nice if they did because over time, not only does the water assimilate the air but the air tends to leak out the rubbers on the sight glass. Thank you for an informative and correct method of determining the proper pressures.
Great tips!
A youtube tutorial video with accurate and useful information? Doesn't this guy know that to fit in with all the other youtubers, the only guys who make how to videos are guys who have no idea " how to "do the thing they are making the video about .
I can't thank you enough!! What a difference once everything was set up correctly! Thanks again! J
Thanks for watching! :)
I'm confused. You say to open a faucet anywhere in the house. I did that and the system drained empty. Then I opened the faucet on the tank tee assembly. The water drained out relatively slowly, with lots of glubs as air entered in to replace the water coming out from the tank. Was it unnecessary to empty the tank, or can you get by with just zero pressure reading from the rest of the household plumbing? Also how accurate must the tire gauge be? What if it's off by one or 2 psi, or 3 or 4?
The pressure is what you need to drain, if there is a little water leftover in the pipe that is fine as long as you pressure gauge reads 0 psi. The best method to check the pressure is with a digital gauge, but a tire gauge should get you close enough if you don't have a digital one. Thanks for the questions!
Thanks.
My pump seems to kick on at 21psi ? That seems low does it not? My issue is my water pressure doesn't seems to be very powerful. It is at first but then dies off. I watch gauge at tank and it kicks on around 21psi and kicks off at 38psi
Thank you for explaining this so well! As a pump serviceman I always explained everything that you have shown! Many people inadvertently checked the pressure in the accumulator when the pump had pumped up to cut out pressure which is wrong! More often than not I would always remove the tank from the pumping system to get a correct pressure in the accumulator! On the smaller accumulators sometimes the diaphragm had inverted itself & in that case it could be reverted back to it’s original position with the aide of something small like a large strong stick the could be placed in the inlet side being the (bottom of the tank) saving the customer buying a new accumulator! Or in some instances connecting air pressure & blowing the diaphragm backwards but in doing that the Schrader valve needed to be removed to allow the air to be discharged from the top side of the tank!
Nine times out of ten the water wouldn’t drain out of the tank in your suggestion because it takes so much pressure to push out that remaining water from the system! But the drain tap at the base of the intake sounds like a much better option for the novice home handyman!
I've spent literally almost 4 days of living hell rebuilding an entire well house system in high humid temps. Replaced a jet pump with a submersible. For some reason my pump on a 30-50 psi pressure switch will not " cut -out" ? Still not sure why that terminology is used. Its confusing. Not sure why its not said that the pump doesn't shut of and on or the pump doesn't turn on and off? Anyway I put a 75 psi pressure switch on the Tank T or cross or whatever your terminology is. Pump never cycles off. Continues to build up pressure until the relief vale opens. I want to say its the pressure switch needing adjustment, but it was brand new from the store. Hope you can help. I'll be at it again tomorrow trouble shooting the system some more.
Get a made in the USA switch
Dude you rock!!
If I have a submersible pump, can I still drain all of the water from my tank without losing my prime?
Yes, unlike jet pumps submersible pumps don't require any priming because the whole pump is underwater. They just push it up.
Why does my pressure tank lose air pressure every several years? Tank is 10 years old. 20 gallon.
Air permeates through the diaphragm at a microscopic level. As the tank cycles get olders, the passageways for that air to escape get larger and larger until a hole develops.
Can you do a video on how to increase the water pressure on . Weil - McLain Gold oil tank. I can’t find any video on it
Thank you so much. You solved my problem on an issue i had no clue about. Awesome!!
Happy we could help you do it yourself! Nice job
Hi thanks for the info and love your videos! I have holding tanks that produce 26 PSI of head pressure to my system. I have to close the inbound water line to the pressure pump from the holding tanks or the water will just run until the tanks go dry. My question is; after I have adjusted the pressure in the bladder tank do I open the inbound water valve first or turn the power back on to the pressure pump first then open the inbound water valve? Does it even matter? Also, my pressure tank seems to need this service a couple times per year...is this normal?
Where you ever able to get a answer to your issue or did he just tell everyone to leave a comment and answer no one's questions? I have just got the well X trol 255 with a30/50 switch i don't believe the plumber hooked it up correctly and it with all these questions people have asked having 30/50 switches if he would answer them I believe i can handle it but all I seeare a bunch of unanswered questions on here
@@jeremyt.8981 Nah, never got an answer. I just open the water supply first then turn on the pressure pump so it doesn’t pump dry for any length of time. I did move my pressure switch hose to a T off of the bladder tank piping. This solved my pressure pump’s chattering starts and stops.
Thanks for the explanation - super clear! Quick question - when adjusting cut in/out pressures is it better to set your tank bladder pressure first (ie. 38psi for a 40/60 setting) or set your switch first, then the tank, or does it matter? thanks
Set the switch first, then adjust your tank once you hit your target pressure.
@@RCworstwater thanks!
We have a grey xtrol #15 pressure tank on our Hydronic in-floor heating system. We had a purge service done last summer (2017) [exchange solution] and the system held pressure all summer. This year (2018) the system came on and functioned normally, holding about 12 pounds of line pressure. Lately the line pressure is at 0 at rest and comes up to about 8 - 10 pounds when heating. One video suggested tapping on the tank to determine if the tank is water logged. I did so and get a thunk on the top half and a ting on the bottom half (sound of a empty 1 pound propane bottle)
Question: Can the stem filler valve bleed air out the bottom reducing system pressure? Your assistance or anyone's assistance would be appreciated. Thank you
Do you increase air pressure i.e. add air, bringing it to 38 psi when the tank is empty or full of water?
Mark: Turn off breaker and drain tank of all water by opening a faucet in the system prior to checking/adding air.
Empty
Thank you. Just replace the pressure gauge and checked the pressure in the tank. It was 11 psi. Added air to 38 psi for our 40/60 gauge and it worked. Thank you so very much!
Thank you thank you thank you. We have been living with the tank clicking for so long now even when we flushed the tolit it would click about 10 times. We have never had a well before
Well before
Look into getting a Rays pressure snubber and install it under the pressure switch. Should take care of the problem
Hey y’all, I have one that I just installed, and when the well pump cuts off it makes like a click, click, click noise in the area of the Square D Pumptroll, and ideas on what this could be? Thank you
Thank you. My irrigation system is 40 years old and she still works but needed some tweaking. Your video did it. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped!
Great! But what about when your tank has NO VALVE to add or subtract air pressure, or valve to empty water? I need to change my pressure switch which basically melted. I have never in my life seen a tank/pump/system with no valves or ability to drain water, or add or subtract air pressure… Mine is the damndest thing I’ve ever seen!
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Hi i would like some help with my water pump .....when i am not using water it stays pressured as normal but as soon as i start using water it lose all the pressure in a sec or two the gage runs back down to zero an stop pumping any water when i turn off all the valves on the output end of the pump it bills back up the pressure an turns off as normal....can some tell me what is wrong please????
Maria, it sounds like your pressure tank is waterlogged and needs to be replaced. If you press in the air valve and water comes out it's a sure sign that it's bad. We have Welltrol pressure tanks that come with 7-year warranties on our website: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol/Well-X-Trol-c225.html
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. Thanks so much
I replaced the pressure switch. After the tank was completely empty I filled it with 38 pounds of air pressure. Did a little experiment. As long as the valve that let the water in the tank provide me with water is CLOSED I have no issues with high pressure readings inside the tank. As soon as I open the valve , I notice that slowly the pressure inside the tank goes up 65, 70, 80.... The water from the city I am connected to is making its way inside the tank, I think. But how? I have 2 one way valves in the tube that goes to the tank to avoid precisely this. Maybe they're defective. What do you think? And again, Thanks.
bladder busted...you filled the WHOLE tank , down to the pump with 38psi(no bladder)andf when u let the water on, water comes in raising it???? water level in well has risen?and the pump is much deeper now causing water pressure???? wow...are u sure? how did u fix this???
Can anybody help me with the problem I am facing ...!.. After installing the pressure pump, toilet flush value beacme very hard as if it is pushing some air stuck inside the pipe and water outlet from the flush value is also less. All other pipes are having good pressure outlet except the flush value.
Question: my 2 tanks are at at 41 and 44 when I drain the system. BUT the switch pressure is 37.
It cuts in but stops at 37.
How can it be lower than the tank?
My tank was at 43 psi
The switch is 30/50
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Thank you for explaining this, so if I am checking an existing pressure do I need to drain it as well? Or can I just turn off the power, and empty the system and opening a faucet?
What do you mean "cut in" pressure? I have a bladder tank which pre charged with 2 bars but my pressure switch is set to 20/40. I notice that the pressure doesn't rise up. What is the problem here? I hope someone help me. Thanks in advanced!
Great information.. I have a similar pump and tank ... I'm having an issue with the system not pressuring up. The pump works and builds pressure, but it will not pressure up to 30 psi at the pressure Tank to even fill the pressure tank. I do have a gauge installed before the tank, to monitor pressure. The water supply is coming off of a 15 foot deep x 4 foot wide holding tank in the ground . My original question, is why would it seem to be acting like it's sucking air? ... I have primed the pump and from the pump up to the pressure tank, I have clear plastic line, so I can see the bubbles .. but I might add, ( I'm not sure if it matters) the guy who installed the system, has the pump mounted 4 feet below the pressure tank, so it has to pump up to the pressure tank first. At first he thought maybe my pump was no good, and installed another pump that he has, that he knew was a good pump, but had the same issue, so put mine back in. Any advice you could offer, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. And great video
what is life span of this tank, had one put in four years ago and now my system is short cycleing, this is exact tank I have.
Hi, thank for your video, it's very helful!
i just want to confirm one thing - after cutting off power for my pump I opening the faucet (wait till the water will stop blow off), then pump the air by air compresor (with the faucet still opened?) and during pumping I need to wait until the water stop draining from the faucet? So this is normal that initially only part of water will blow off and then another part during pumping? So pumping help to blow off the rest of the water because of higher pressure, am I right? When all the water will blown off I will see 'real' current pressure?
Thanks for your support :)
Here's my issue:
When I turn on the water it comes out high pressure, then about 20 seconds later it turns to a trickle.
I've adjusted the pressure switch to 40/60. I've set the pressure tank at 38psi.
The gauge says 60 psi, turn the water on, comes out fully blast, then quickly it gets to 50 psi turns into a trickle, then it take forever for it to get to 40 psi to turn the pump back on.
Any idea?
I have the exact same problem!
Give us a call for help troubleshooting: 855.329.4519
@@jeffl7387 It was the tank, which I thought was odd because it sounded hollow when I tapped it. But, I talked to some people at the local True Value, and he said the only thing that could be wrong in that scenario is the pressure tank. I replaced it, and initially didn't have any pressure. Then I called a well service and they said if I have an inline filter that I need to change that too if I change the pressure tank. So I put a new filter in and I've got full pressure.
So I would try changing your house filter first if you have one, and then try a new tank. Or do both, but change the tank then the house filter.
I think it has to do with the suction the filter creates, but I'm not certain.
I've got pressure like the city now!
If my pressure switch setting oressure is 20/40 psi what will be cut in pressure and cut out pressure
Once you cut power, drain, adjust the pressure, can you just turn the water back on to the tank or do you have to follow any particular steps?
I had my rusty WX-202 replaced with a WX-203 and a new complete pressure kit rated at 30-50. The installers replaced it all but didn't check anything, pressure wise. Should I be worried?
Hello. My husband just put in a new pressure tank and followed the install directions that came with it. Piped it the way the old one was and even added a new pressure gauge, since before we didn't have one, but for some reason, there is no pressure showing on the gauge, but the pump is running and the pipes are cold. What would be the reason the water is not coming through our plumbing fixtures? Is there something that he forgot to do or still fix?
Hello @RC,
My pressure tank in ireland may need a repplacement membrane,
Do you have any videos or advice on how to replace one?
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