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Thanx for the video. Hoping you can help me figure out what I need. Want to setup a irrigation system for my garden. Got a 4 inch underground line about 700 feet long. Want to run drip tape off the line. Want to pressure the 4 inch line at 60 psi and throttle the header the the drip lines run off to 8 psi. Will run about 1000 feet of drip tape
Good video and explanation. I watched because I'm concerned about my system. Just bought a house and noticed the pump short cycles alot. It's set to 35/50 and runs no longer than 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Too big of a pump or too small of a tank? Tank is a WX203TK. Any advice would help.
Thank you very much for putting this video together. Through your explanation of how to calculate drawdown capacity I learned that my pressure tank is about half the size it should have been. Time to get a big one!
You are excellent in information and presentation. I have been watching you videos and you are an intelligent educator. Well done! Enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for the well system wisdom you put on your videos. Wide variance for problem solving for the home owner. Getting ready to replace a old pressure tank after having a well person diagnosed one of my problems and replaced the outside saddle and connector was bad, pushing water out the top of the well. He recommended changing the pressure tank as well later but soon. Thanks again for walking us through the troubleshooting and how to fix the problems.
I have a 1/2 HP. F & W CP05 Pump I just had rebuilt. He said the pump was fine, just cleaned it up and replaced motor bearing which were getting noisy. The pump rebuilder said it was good I brought it in as this pump is built better than the new pumps. He said he would guess it has about a 10 GPM rating and I am not sure if that is accurate or not. . I am not sure of the size of the bladder tank but the shut off valve is a 40/60. It was the one that was on it, and I never thought about it before. I am guessing the bladder tank is about the size of yours in the video. I ran the water until the pump kicked on and timed it, and it was almost exactly 2 1/2 minutes for the pump to shut off. It may not be pumping 100% as the well it old but we have plenty of water or so it seems. I am thinking about putting a larger 52 or 86 gallon as I run the pump due to a large garden more in the summer than prior owners of the home. What do you think? Should I change pressure switch to a 30/50 or what are your thoughts. My final question is do the tanks come pressure set or not?
Great video. I learned a lot, but I do have a question......which is probably more suited for an actual phone call than a post in the comment section, but we'll see. Is it possible to have say, THREE pumps and three pressure tanks, all on the same system, but have the pumps come on at different PRESSURES, as the water demand increases? What I'm thinking is to have say...three pumps all at about 40 or 50 GPM, but the main pump set at say 40/60 and then a second pump set at say 35/60 and a third pump set at say 30/60. So as the demand increases and it will, is this a possible solution to be able to increase water availability as demand increases? The demand will vary at different times of the year, so for 60% of the time, one pump will be more than enough, but then the other 40% of the time, one ump will not be enough at all. I do not want just one pump, I want at least two preferably three so WHEN one fails, we still have water. Thanks, and keep up the great work.
Very informative, but if I may add some considerations, I'd like your input please. First, I have a pressure compensating pump, so when you open one tap you get water at the pressure you set the pump to. When you open a 2nd tap, the pump speeds up to maintain that pressure. The same if you open a 3rd tap. My system came with only a 1 gallon pressure tank and it worked perfectly. HOWEVER... that 1 gallon tank could not absorb all the back pressure from our hot water tank heating up 80 gallons of cold water to 150 F. The pressure was set to 70 on the system but when the water tank began to heat up it could go at least to 110 PSI. That's where the gauge pegged so I'm not actually sure how high it went except to say that the 150 PSI PRV did not trip. When you size a pressure tank is the back pressure from a hot water tank ever a consideration?
I have a galvanized tank, snifter valve on the check valve. I am told this allows some water to drain back into well and also allows tank to stay "charged" with air. Have had issues with water- logging as discovered by hearing short pump cycling. Drain tank...and good for a few months. But I have read it is best to drain tank, then charge tank to about 2 lbs less than cut on by pressure switch. For me this would be 28 lbs. (30-50 psi pressure switch). Question is, since I do not find a "charging valve"...but DO have a snifter valve...am I crazy to try and install a schrader valve through which I can charge system? I admit, when old snifter was all caked with corrosion I just bought a cheap valve, (not snifter specific) and threw it on...but I am told a snifter is specially designed to have less spring tension to allow air to feed back in. And, I do plan on changing that to the snifter specific schrader valve I have already purchased. Long question, I know...but thanks.
Once again, thanks for these videos....in our rural living area, I have tried to understand as much as I can about septic and wells.... never learned more about well systems than I have done here...is pump replacement a do-it-yourself task. My pump is in my basement with 2 pvc lines passing thru the concrete wall
thank you for this video, how can I measure the flow rate of my well? do I disconnect my pump motor and measure it by a bucket? or is there a better way?
Thanks for putting all this together! Let‘s say I have a 25gpm pump and the tank is completely empty, will all of the 25gpm be used to fill the tank, so will I get practically 0 water pressure from the faucet or how does this work?
OK when you talk about "flow rare on the pump", which pump are you referring to? Is that the pump I have down in my well 57 feet below the ground, or are your referring to the pump on the pressure tank? IN any case , how does one go about determining what the flow rate value is for use in the draw-down capacity equation ?
I do not see a large enough pressure tank on your website. We have a red lion 2hp 77 gpm, so based on your equation I think we would need a 150 gallon pressure tank. Is that correct. Thanks
Thank you for the chart! Does the number in parentheses, after the recommended tank model, indicate the need for more than one tank in some circumstances? For example, a 20 GPM pump, operating at 40/60 PSIG and ESP II says "WX-255 (2)", as compared to ESP I which says "WX-255." Does that mean it is recommended to hook two WX-255 tanks in tandem for ESP II?
I live off grid. I catch rain water. I have 6 275 gallon tacks tied in with each other. I have 220 volt water pump rated for 8gpm. What size tank shoukd I get?
Quick question...I have watched a few of your videos and you explaine things well! I have a 3 story home..when the well was installed the guy set it at 30/50 and we had horrible pressure when it was at 30. so I set it to 42/73. Then I heard that maybe it should not be so far apart...should I change it to come on at 53? TIA...Garth
Isn't 73 PSI awfully high? If you raised the low limit to 42 why move the upper limit all the way to 73? If you have sufficient pressure at 42 PSI maybe decrease the upper pressure down to 62, as long as the pump run time does not get too short.
@@bigpardner I have 10 Foot ceilings...so it was about 30 feet to pump the water to the 3rd floor. So with elevation loss I needed it to be set higher.
@@GO-zg7ox I am thinking that how low your water pressure was getting would be governed more by the lower, cut on pressure setting, not the upper. Setting the upper, cut off pressure to 73 or even 103 would not keep it from decreasing to 42 if that is the setting, 30 previously.
@@GO-zg7ox - It is standard to have a 20 psi difference between cut in and cut out. 50/70 switches are fairly common so if you’re comfortable with that, then you should raise your cut in to 50 - 53.
good explaining , i have two duty pumps but no detailed at pumps name plate but motor is kw how can i select water vessel tank the discharge pipe is 1.5 inch. thank you very much
Perhaps you can help me.. I am on a Well Share with 3 other houses. We have 2 pressure tanks.. I have always felt My water Pressure is lousy. I would think.. We would need at least 3 tanks for 4 houses Our tanks look larger in width than the one displayed.
So a larger tank, lower turn on psi = longer lasting pump? I replaced an old tank for the same size tank, a WX-255. The pump is 1/2hp with 8.5 gpm. I think the switch is set to 35/55 psi. Not higher than this. This is good? Does a larger pressure tank, oversized for the application, last longer than a normal/typical size tank?
Thanks for a nice video and table! I have a question: from your table titled "Specifications", line WX-250, one may conclude that the regime 30/50 is noticeably more efficient in terms of drawdown than the regime 50/70 (13.6 vs 10.4 gallons). Similar for other WX models. Can it be concluded that in general moving towards lower on/off ranges is advantageous in terms of drawdown capacity? What other factors should be taken into consideration when setting on/off ranges? Is it admissible to widen a range and select, say, 30/70? Thanks.
Yes, the lower your pressure in the tank/system the more water the tank will hold. Typically you want to stay in that 20 PSI range so that the drop in water pressure is not as noticeable and you don't put extra wear and tear on the butyl diaphragm in your pressure tank.
Sorry but now I'm even less clear than before I got here. First, I have no clue what my gpm is (or the size of my well pump motor) but I DO already know the drawdown rates for ALL the tanks I've looked at including the present old one. I'm told that if I replace with a larger one I'll simply get more pressure, which is good. But as I survey tanks I see that even smaller tanks than the present 42 have considerably higher drawdowns at the same pressure schemes, than the old one does. Does this mean I can actually downsize and improve? At this point I don't know if I should be looking at capacity or drawdown. Or how each one affects pump cycle frequency.
My pump is a one hp with approx 12 gal. per minute at the depth it's set. It only runs for about 3 or 4 seconds. I know pressure tank is too small. However, my question is, I shut a spigot or flush the toilet and when it shuts off, the water lines jolt throughout the house. should I add a pressure tank at the opposite end of the house to solve this problem? FYI, I have one inch plumbing in my house for maximum flow (which I have) I am guessing even with a larger tank I still would have the line jolt due to the high pressure/high volume......?
Below are specifications on my current well pump and well tank. I would like to replace my water well tank with an Amtrol tank but I need to size the Amtrol tank. Please send me the Amtrol model based on the information below: Current well pump specifications: • Manufacturer: STA-RITE • Modal: MSE-7 • Motor: HP 1 • Volts: 230 Current well tank (to be replaced): • Type: galvanized • Possible manufacturer: Quick Tanks, Inc. - QC61 Coating - NSF Certified (from sticker on tank) • Model: Q82V • Max Work Pressure: 75 PSI • Height of tank: 62” • Diameter of tank: 20”
Hi, We have a requirement of 2,200 USGPM pump with operating pressure of 109 Psig (7.5 barg). the minimum one user in the network uses 440 USGPM. The pump we found has Qmin as 1,100 USGPM. My question is that can we use bladder tank to safeguard the pump for frequent ON/OFF operation. If yes then what will be the size of bladder tank.
Hi, situating the booster pump and pressure tank underneath the storage tank can cause water logging? Will gravity alone cn fill the pressure tank even if the pump is off? Please advise.
I want to buy an electric tankless water heater. The manufacturer says it should have water pressure at least 30 psi. My well tank is a 30/50 and cuts in at less than 30 psi. Is it safe to raise cut in pressure to 30-31 psi? Is it possible to change to a 40/60 tank with the same pump?
What about when your using a domestic water pressure booster were you have say 35 psi coming in but want to run say a 40 /60 Do you use the same sizing?
Question is, how do i find the pump flow rate of a submersible that has no paperwork? Could i possibly isolate the pressure tank somehow and call for the pump to run and measure flow per min through the drain valve strictly from the pump? Or is there an easier way? Need new tank because pump is coming on every time faucet is opened. Trying to size one.
Hi I just want to ask about the cut in/cut off pressure of pressure switch. For example 30/50 psi so the maximum can deliver the tank is 50 psi? Regardless the pressure/head of the pump? Thank you
Hello, Thanks for your informative site. I have a viessmann boiler atola and now the tank is defected. I was wondering what kind I need. The one I have has three entrances . first input for cold water to come and one on the side top to release air and one at the bottom side to release water. The tank is huge. It's 30 psi and I can't find anything like the one which I have. I was wondering if you could help me . Thanks in advance
Okay I had a tank 2 years ago that was on my Gould's 1, 3/4 horsepower pump. I'm not sure the size of tank but if you were standing up it would be just passed or close to your waistline. The pump seem to be cutting in and out too much so I went and seen ecowater North and he told me I could go with a smaller tank (20 gallon). Problem is now if the washing machine is running or filling there's hardly any water upstairs. the salesman knew I was trying to save some money on a tank price and he told me I would be fine with that small tank. My question is, is this tank the 20 gallon, too small and just going to cause me to burn out my pump,? should I move back to the larger tank? Thanks in advance.
Maybe a dumb question, but how do I figure out the gpm of my pump? I have a Goulds J10 1HP pump and I couldn't find gpm in the specs. Years ago a repairman replaced my pressure tank and my water pressure decreased significantly. I think it was a cheap tank with lower drawdown. I'm looking at a tank that has around 12 gpm drawdown. Do you think this would be sufficient? Also, do you know if it is allowed/feasible to use PEX between the metal piping on the outlet side of a jet pump going to the inlet of the pressure tank?
How long does your pump run to fill the tank? It should be at least a minute, preferably two minutes. Pex is ok to use, but you will lose pressure because pex has a much small ID then the equivalent size PVC or steel pipe.
Hey I have a question for ya. New to well pumps. I have a 32 gal tank and at 45/65 we are still starving for more pressure. Current pump and tank are 4 years old. I was gonna install a 2nd 32 gal tank for longer duration and so I can raise the system pressure to maybe 50/70. This is ok to do right? No downside in adding a 2nd pressure tank and due to the increased capacity the pump won't short cycle is my thought. Any opinions or suggestions? Thank you for the video
Just bought my 1st house. We have well water and septic 🤦🏻♂️ city boy moved out to the woods. I love just trying to figure it out and learn as much as I can. Great channel. I am concerned about 3 adults in house dishwasher pressure washer lets say being used outside 2.8 GPM . I want to get the biggest I possibly can get for my home. I believe my pump starts at 40 and shuts off at 60 at least that where i see the gauge. How can I k ow the biggest i can go. The one we have now is a little smaller than one in this video. And thank you.
Hi thank you for some enlightenment… i have one question, i bought a big pressure tank already (500 Gal) . My water pump output is only 8gal/min. Will it be beneficial for the water pump? Will it be better compared if I use a smaller one?
I have 2 pumps due to low yield well. The first pump pulls from the well to storage and the second pulls from storage to feed the house. My pressure tank to be replaced would feed to the pump supplying the house. How would calculate the flow rate based on this?
I have a 2 wire pump I ran 12-3 with ground 110 ft from double 30 amp breaker to the new 30 50 switche and pump comes on briefly then breaker trips please let me know what you think is my problem
I have a 1/2 hp shallow well pump with a 35/50 switch and a 20 gallon pressure tank. Everything is brand new. Everytime I flush the toilet the pump kicks on. I felt the pressure tank and it is empty. What gives? I thought it was suppose to hold 6 gallons of water. Do you think that there is too much air on the tank? It has 28 psi in it.
I’m learning a lot so hope you bear with me , question what would determine or in other words what are reasons to determine which pressure to go with is it just pressure or saving water ?
i need to know size...as my city is alowing me to have mt exmonther in law to live on my land.....i bought a 19 galllon pressurized tank ...and the well drilling company that screwed me is saying this...so i looked it up and as long as ...wait not sure...........help?????
Read through a bunch of comments but didn’t see my question so here it goes. I have access to a couple use pressure tanks for free basically. Can two tanks be used in series or parallel to get the correct Sara’s down and run time?
Great videos, thanks. My pump keeps cycling but water pressure doesn't increase. I watched your other video saying it could be something like a closed valve, etc. It's none of those things. I thought maybe the pump is weak, but it's really large - 380 watts. I'm thinking the pressure tank is the suspect. It's large but maybe is limiting the capacity of the pump. Is this possible? thanks again.
It sounds like your tank lost its air, so without that air cushion, the pressure changes really fast with little to no water pimped. This happens quite frequently if you don’t have a captive air pressure tank like the one in this video. If you do have a captive air tank and it is completely full of water, the bladder he keeps talking about in the video has ruptured and you need a new tank. Or your pressure gauge died and you need a new one.
I have a wx-202 I will be replacing soon. It appears my pump is 12gpm based of the test I did. From this video and charts I've seen, the 202 is probably too small. I see the 250 or 251 would be more appropriate with a 12gpm pump. Does this seem accurate? I want to be sure that makes sense given the price difference between them. What would I expect to gain from having the bigger tank besides increased pump life?
You are correct in that a 202 is too small for a 12GPM pump. A larger tank will increase pump run time and off time - increasing the life of the pump by making it cycle less often. You can buy them here: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
Amazing video! I had some questions, my well is 50ft and according to my 1 hp pump specs, it has 7.5 gpm flow rate at that depth, my run time would be 2 minutes, so i would need a 15 gal pressure tank in theory, but obviously majority of manufactures make 20 gal tanks as the smallest ( i may be wrong) my question is, if I were to get a 30 or 40 gal pressure tank what will that look like in terms of performance? Also if space is not an issue would a bigger tank be more optimal? Thank you!
Hi, Thank you for the video. Is there any disadvantage of oversizing Well Tank and installing 50/70 switch? We moved to the house with existing system 20 gal tank and 30/50 switch. he pump's specs are unknown.
I have Pressure switch 30/50 psi, I filled pressure tank with water and air, pressure turned off when when it’s over 50 psi and turn on when it’s lower the 30 psi, I have water in the house but i have to help pressure tank with adding air until 50 psi( when pump is running) , pump keep running and stock on 38 psi then when I plug air in and help build a pressure in the system, when it’s over 50 it’s turning off.. I have feeling like air leaking somewhere. But I have water in water faucet, and again pump turning on when it’s lower then 30 psi and then pump keep building pressure until 38 psi and just keep running without shut off i until I start adding air to 50psi until pressure switch hit and stop pump. Please tell me what is the problem?
If we are talking a tank just for residential lawn irrigation would the same standard apply given use only every couple days for about an hour a pop... my irrigation pump is 8gpm, what size tank would you suggest , Bare minimum.
Good question Dave. Ideally, irrigation pumps should not cycle on and off when the sprinklers are running. This is usually accomplished via a Cycle Stop Valve or Flow Regulator with a very small tank (4 gal. or so).
20 gal pressure tank paired with 20/40 pressure switch and what I think is 3/4hp submersible pump. Using it to pump from spring water stream up hill to a pool. 10 gal per minute right now but pump runs 16 seconds and is off for 16 seconds, pump kicks on at 29 psi. What should i do to maximize the pump rest time? Do i need a larger pressure tank? Thanks
Thank you for the question. Your pressure tank is probably small for your system. I have included a link to a pressure tank sizing chart. You should also check your pressure switch. Your pump should be turning on at 20 psi if you have a 20/40 switch. www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/amtrol_well_x_trol/docs/wellxtrolsizing.pdf
I have a wx-202. HP of 1/2 at 230 volts. I have it set at 50/70 cuts on for like 15 seconds then cuts off at required pressure. Is this too short of a time I’m assuming? I saw the chart and shows min of a minute if it’s 3/4 HP but mine is 1/2
@@mav48185 Yes, even at 1/2 HP it should still run for a minimum of 1 minute. Give us a call if you would like help selecting a tank for your setup: 855.329.4519 You can buy them on our website: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
I have a 3/4 horse jacuzzi submersible with a 20 gallon pressure tank. I want to add a 240 one inch domestic water line to next lot. Do I need to change anything as far as size of pressure tank.
Thanks for the question Kyle. Since you're not changing the pump the existing pressure tank should work fine, but if you are going to be using more water then you might consider adding a larger pressure tank to cut down on pump cycling. You may also want to check that your current pump can produce the additional flow and pressure that the new water line will require. Give our customer service team a call if you'd like to discuss your water system. 855.329.4519
That depends, are you using as much or more water than the pump is able to produce? If you are then the pump will continue to run until demand decreases, if not, it will send the excess water to fill the tank up and shut off.
I have the original pump that came with the house built 1969, no idea what brand. I noticed it was cycling almost constantly, and found the capacitor in the control had melted. I could read the old controller data, and it listed as 1/2 hp. Replaced the controller, then replaced the old 20 gal tank with a 30 gal. Does this all sound kosher? My question, if I ever have to replace the old pump, should I get one with a built in controller, or use the seperate wall controller I have now? Thanks.
That certainly does sound Kosher, and I would recommend a 3-wire pump with the controller above ground. The reason being you can replace the capacitor if it fails fairly easily. We have a video coming out on Friday that explains the differences between the 2- and 3- wire pumps, keep an eye out!
Thanks for the reply. I just checked, and it is a 3-wire controller, feeding the cap and relay. So I guess the pump is too. The old pump must be a real beast, after having first the pressure tank losing pressure, then the controller bad, both making it short cycle about every 30 sec to a minute for some time. It's been working great after the two replacements. Can you recommend a good brand 3 wire pump, as most I've heard of now seem to be with controls on pump? Thanks again.
Hi there, a fire sprinkler system I am looking at will benefit from a thermal expansion tank, but I also want to consider its pressure tank capability for the pipeline. The sprinkler system needs to be kept at around 12 bar. This will drop over time with leaks and a technician needs to boost the pressure with a jockey pump. A pressure tank should help keep the pipeline closer to 12 bar for longer, however I don't believe it takes much design as the 'drawdown' won't matter? A leak is so small and pressure drop so gradual that any pressure tank size should help the situation??
I haven't looked into pressure rating yet. It is for thermal expansion of the water primarily with the hot sun and the sprinkler system being close to iron roof. And if possible I would like to design it to help with pressure drops as well which is just from leakages. So if the happy pressure is 12 bar. Minimum pressure 9 bar would come from leaks and max pressure 13 bar from the water expanding. So I think for the bladder tank to help with both, the pressure of the air would need to be at the minimum pressure say 9 bar and a larger volume than required for just one scenario. I think I can work it out. Thanks,
As a 39 year Retired Veteran Baltimore City Fire Department Captain I would contact the manufacturer, distributor, or installer for the Fire Sprinkler system that you are thinking of installing before you add anything to the system. These systems are highly specialized and anything you add or delete from the can have a severe negative effect on its proper operation.
Couldn't figure out why my dad, who I always thought knew what he was doing, installed a submersible pump that would constantly trigger on and off. He bought a 30gpm pump on amazon, and is trying to use it with a 2gpm drain down pressure tank.
Eeek! If it's pumping 30 GPM your drawdown should be 30 gallons minimum. The constant cycling on and off with a 2 gallon drawdown will shorten the life of his pump tremendously.
My pump is also triggering on and off. At times I have to reset it. How do I fix it? The only suggestion has been to turn the breaker off when I'm not using it.
Chris Elliot - sounds like a water logged pressure tank. I would drain the system of all water pressure and then check the air pressure of the tank. The air pressure should be a couple PSI less then cut in pressure of the switch. If not add air or replace the tank if the bladder has gone bad.
WellXtrol has a patented Turbulator that agitates the water as it enters the tank to reduce sediment buildup. Can you tell me more about your application?
I have a question regarding to pump that I should buy. I want my pump will turn on at 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. I use it for Aeroponic system and I need 60 PSI for well irrigation pressure. what is the pump pressure I should have? Does the pressure of the pump is important or the pressure that will be in the tank will determine the pressure in the line?
Thanks for the question! Your pump builds the pressure up in the line and fills the pressure tank. When the pump shuts off the pressure tank holds a finite supply of pressurized water. Once that supply is gone, the pump starts up and the cycle continues. Our customer service team can help you size a pump over the phone, just give us a call: 855.329.4519
Thanks. I live in israel so I guess I will buy the pump and the tank here. According to what you say I need to have a pump that can pressurize up to 4 Bar/60 PSI. Let's say that I have a pump that can pressurize up to 85 PSI/6 Bar with pump flow rate of 50 liters/minute (13.2 gallons/minute). I didn't understand how to calculate properly and I will glad to your help Horse power 0.8, Cut in 40 PSI Cut out 60 PSI. the tank will use for two irrigation systems. The first one is for drippers 3-4 times a day with total flow rate of 10 liters per day. The second irrigation related to Foggers with flow rate of 123.2 liters per day. What is the minimal tank volume I should have if I want that my pump will work at least one minute every cut in (when the pressure is below 40 PSI)? Many thanks Yaniv
Yaniv, if your pump puts out 13 GPM your tank needs have a minimum drawdown of 13 gallons. The Well-X-Trol WX-251 is a 62 gallon tank with a 16.6 gallon drawdown @ 40/60. You can view it here: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol-WX-251-Well-X-Trol-Well-Water-Tank-62-Gallons-p5131.html
yaniv levy On and off is what kills those motors. Simply install a continuous duty motor. You can get one from Grainger. Get a flow switch which is on or off. Flow-pump comes on. No flow-pump shuts off. This on and off business is a good way to sell parts.
@@RCworstwater The chart gives a recommended running time for pumps of 1 minute and 2 minutes depending on HP. Is this a recommended MINIMUM run time or is it both a minimum and maximum time? IOW is it harmful for the pump to run for too long and how long is too long? I guess if a larger tank results in a too long run time the cut in or cut out pressure can be adjusted to reduce the drawdown and reduce the run time.
@@bigpardner - Submersible pumps are rated for a continuous duty cycle, meaning that they can run continuously without harm. These are MINIMUM run times for the pump to be properly cooled after starting or cycling. Do not worry about a pump running too long.
Hi, I'm not sure what the flow rate of my pump is. I currently have an Amtrol WX-202 exactly the one you're demonstrating. Would it be okay to upgrade to the WX-202XL (26 Gallon) tank? TIA.
The water filter needs to be installed AFTER the pressure tank. As far as what filter to choose - it depends on what you're trying to filter out. Give our customer service crew a call and we can help you pick the right one for you. 855.329.4519
I just had my control box go bad and saw that my tank is tiny. I have a 3/4 hp pump and was considering a larger tank. The problem is the tank is under a manufactured home and it is as large as possible. I am considering moving the location of the tank up the hill to the location of the well and building a well house to accommodate a large tank. It will be about 20 ft. above where the current tank is. 1. With old pex pipes in mfg. home over pressure is a concern. will i need to lower the tank pressure because of the head pressure added. 2. would i have to move the pressure switch and control box up the hill? this would require a ditch to burry the wire if i moved it up the hill with the tank.
20 feet of additional elevation will only add about 9 PSI to the system, if that worries you you can select a pressure switch with lower set points but chances are you'll be fine. The pressure switch DOES need to be relocated with the pressure tank. You can simply junction the wires together where the old switch was and then cut into the wires at the well head to tie in the new pressure switch in it's new location. Hope that helps.
I have a 21 gallons tank and i used 1HP pump single phase.the question is, when running i get a 23 amps starting and lights fluctuate.i encounter voltage drop.used i use transformer?breaker is 30amps.
Well for starters, you're supposed to be running a well on a dedicated circuit. So there shouldn't be lights to flicker because there shouldn't be lights on that circuit.
@@RCworstwater HELLO SO I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS SO IN THE OLD DAYS 70 80S I INSTALLED WELLS BUT WE USED 300 GAL PRESURE TANKS-------- BUT TO DAY EVERY THING HAS CHANGED SO FIRST WELL PUMP FILLS UP A WATER TANK APROX 100 FT AWAY APOX 3000 GAL IN THIS TANK IN TO A SMALL BUILDING NOW THAT BUILDING HAS A JET PUMP WITCH HAS A INCH OUT PUT LINE GOING TO THE HT-20B WITCH IS THE SAME TANK AS YOUR 20 GAL PRESURE TANK SO THAT PUMP IS GRAVITY FED FROM THE 3000 GAL TANK NEXT TO BUILDING THAT PUMP IS A 50 /75 PSI NOW FROM THERE THE HOUSE IS ANOTHER 100 FEET AWAY THE PUMP DOSE NOT STOP OPERATING SO I FEEL THAT THE PRESURE TANK IS TO FAR AWAY FROM THE HOUSE TO OPERATE PROPERLY NOW WILL THAT 20 GAL PRESURE TANK 100 FT AWAY WORK OR DO I NEED TO BRING IT CLOSER TO THE HOUSE WAIT I DID NOT INSTALL THIS SYSTEM JUST SERVICING THERE SYSTEM NOTHING IS WORKING PROPERLY PLEASE COULD YOU HELP BECAUSE THIS IS SIMPLE SYSTEM BUT THE WAY IT WAS INSTALLED IS QUITE STRANGE THANK YOU 4 YOUR TIME
I currently have a 30psi tank. I’m changing my pump to a 12 gpm 1/2 horse pump but the pump is down 80 feet and I understand this affects the actual gpm . Also would like to change my pressure tank at the same time. Which tank should I purchase?
Hi, I am building an off grid house with a 2642 gal (Rotoplas 10,000 liter) cistern tank buried in the ground. If the cistern comes with a 1/2 HP pump (not sure how many gals/min capacity that is) and the water has to go up 3 stories high (about 32 feet high) then how big should my pressure tank be? There are 4 sinks, 3 toilets and 2 showers.
Pressure tank size is most dependant on pump performance. You need to know the output of the pump (based on its output less the loss due to head pressure) to answer the question, but as a rule of thumb I would never go smaller than a 20 gallon pressure tank and typically like to see a 40-50 gallon tank for a multi story home. Also consider where the pressure tank will be installed. If the tank is installed in the basement/near the cistern you will lose about 15 PSI by the time its pumped up to the top floor. So either compensate for this by setting the pressure switch higher or consider installing the pressure tank on the top floor (or roof depending on climate). In that case you will get full pressure on the top floor and 15 PSI more in the basement.
My pressure switch needed replaced. Installed a Square D switch, 40/20. Is this the correct switch? I believe my pump is 3/4 HP. I also had to replace the water pressure tank. Due to space available where it sits a 32 gallon tank was installed. I would like to have a larger tank, but at the time of this work I had no water in the house.
Thanks for the comment Corey! To answer your question, it depends on what your pump is producing. Make sure your pressure tank is set to about 17 PSI for your 20-40 switch. If your pump runs for more than a minute before shutting off, you're good! For information on checking or adjusting your pressure tank, check out the other videos on our channel.
@@RCworstwater When you say make sure the tank is set to 17psi, that means when the tank is completely empty with no water in it correct? So if I turned off my well pump and let all the water run in my house till nothing else comes out, that's when I should check the pressure? Thanks
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
My irrigation pump is 3500lpm, what is the tank size.
Por favor indicarme si puedo ver
este video en idioma español
Thanx for the video. Hoping you can help me figure out what I need. Want to setup a irrigation system for my garden. Got a 4 inch underground line about 700 feet long. Want to run drip tape off the line. Want to pressure the 4 inch line at 60 psi and throttle the header the the drip lines run off to 8 psi. Will run about 1000 feet of drip tape
sir what thr problem of my water tank if the water pressure will not go up? the water pressure steady at 30psi.. the cut in cut off is 20 to 40psi
Good video and explanation. I watched because I'm concerned about my system. Just bought a house and noticed the pump short cycles alot. It's set to 35/50 and runs no longer than 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Too big of a pump or too small of a tank? Tank is a WX203TK. Any advice would help.
Thank you very much for putting this video together. Through your explanation of how to calculate drawdown capacity I learned that my pressure tank is about half the size it should have been. Time to get a big one!
You are excellent in information and presentation. I have been watching you videos and you are an intelligent educator. Well done! Enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for the well system wisdom you put on your videos. Wide variance for problem solving for the home owner. Getting ready to replace a old pressure tank after having a well person diagnosed one of my problems and replaced the outside saddle and connector was bad, pushing water out the top of the well. He recommended changing the pressure tank as well later but soon. Thanks again for walking us through the troubleshooting and how to fix the problems.
Glad you found them useful, thanks for the awesome comment!
I have a 1/2 HP. F & W CP05 Pump I just had rebuilt. He said the pump was fine, just cleaned it up and replaced motor bearing which were getting noisy. The pump rebuilder said it was good I brought it in as this pump is built better than the new pumps. He said he would guess it has about a 10 GPM rating and I am not sure if that is accurate or not. . I am not sure of the size of the bladder tank but the shut off valve is a 40/60. It was the one that was on it, and I never thought about it before. I am guessing the bladder tank is about the size of yours in the video. I ran the water until the pump kicked on and timed it, and it was almost exactly 2 1/2 minutes for the pump to shut off. It may not be pumping 100% as the well it old but we have plenty of water or so it seems. I am thinking about putting a larger 52 or 86 gallon as I run the pump due to a large garden more in the summer than prior owners of the home. What do you think? Should I change pressure switch to a 30/50 or what are your thoughts. My final question is do the tanks come pressure set or not?
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Great videos! Wish we were closer so that we felt that picking your brains for our new build was not rude.
Please call us: 855.329.4519 - We have helped hundreds of people on UA-cam who call needing advice or better pricing on pumps/equipment.
Really appreicate the logic here!
Another Super informative video. Thank you. You guys deserve my money.
Much appreciated!
Great video. I learned a lot, but I do have a question......which is probably more suited for an actual phone call than a post in the comment section, but we'll see. Is it possible to have say, THREE pumps and three pressure tanks, all on the same system, but have the pumps come on at different PRESSURES, as the water demand increases?
What I'm thinking is to have say...three pumps all at about 40 or 50 GPM, but the main pump set at say 40/60 and then a second pump set at say 35/60 and a third pump set at say 30/60. So as the demand increases and it will, is this a possible solution to be able to increase water availability as demand increases?
The demand will vary at different times of the year, so for 60% of the time, one pump will be more than enough, but then the other 40% of the time, one ump will not be enough at all.
I do not want just one pump, I want at least two preferably three so WHEN one fails, we still have water. Thanks, and keep up the great work.
I have psi of 50 right now GREAT INFO i HAVE A 1 HP PUMP
Very informative, but if I may add some considerations, I'd like your input please. First, I have a pressure compensating pump, so when you open one tap you get water at the pressure you set the pump to. When you open a 2nd tap, the pump speeds up to maintain that pressure. The same if you open a 3rd tap. My system came with only a 1 gallon pressure tank and it worked perfectly. HOWEVER... that 1 gallon tank could not absorb all the back pressure from our hot water tank heating up 80 gallons of cold water to 150 F. The pressure was set to 70 on the system but when the water tank began to heat up it could go at least to 110 PSI. That's where the gauge pegged so I'm not actually sure how high it went except to say that the 150 PSI PRV did not trip. When you size a pressure tank is the back pressure from a hot water tank ever a consideration?
Well x trol is the best pressure tank.
I have a galvanized tank, snifter valve on the check valve. I am told this allows some water to drain back into well and also allows tank to stay "charged" with air. Have had issues with water- logging as discovered by hearing short pump cycling. Drain tank...and good for a few months. But I have read it is best to drain tank, then charge tank to about 2 lbs less than cut on by pressure switch. For me this would be 28 lbs. (30-50 psi pressure switch). Question is, since I do not find a "charging valve"...but DO have a snifter valve...am I crazy to try and install a schrader valve through which I can charge system? I admit, when old snifter was all caked with corrosion I just bought a cheap valve, (not snifter specific) and threw it on...but I am told a snifter is specially designed to have less spring tension to allow air to feed back in. And, I do plan on changing that to the snifter specific schrader valve I have already purchased. Long question, I know...but thanks.
Hi my name is Paul my pump 5.8 GPM Switch Set at 30,50 what size tank I need
If the tank volume was the drawdown, the last owners were correct... No wonder the pump has been cycling. Thanks for the video!
Once again, thanks for these videos....in our rural living area, I have tried to understand as much as I can about septic and wells.... never learned more about well systems than I have done here...is pump replacement a do-it-yourself task. My pump is in my basement with 2 pvc lines passing thru the concrete wall
thank you for this video, how can I measure the flow rate of my well? do I disconnect my pump motor and measure it by a bucket? or is there a better way?
Thanks for putting all this together! Let‘s say I have a 25gpm pump and the tank is completely empty, will all of the 25gpm be used to fill the tank, so will I get practically 0 water pressure from the faucet or how does this work?
fantastic explanation. cheers, folks
very nice, but i have doubt that the" pre charge of air in the air chamber equal to the line pressure or less" pls comment on this
OK when you talk about "flow rare on the pump", which pump are you referring to? Is that the pump I have down in my well 57 feet below the ground, or are your referring to the pump on the pressure tank? IN any case , how does one go about determining what the flow rate value is for use in the draw-down capacity equation ?
I do not see a large enough pressure tank on your website. We have a red lion 2hp 77 gpm, so based on your
equation I think we would need a 150 gallon pressure tank. Is that correct.
Thanks
I have a well that produces 2.7 gallons per minute. What size tank would I need ? Thank. Bruce
Thank you for the chart! Does the number in parentheses, after the recommended tank model, indicate the need for more than one tank in some circumstances? For example, a 20 GPM pump, operating at 40/60 PSIG and ESP II says "WX-255 (2)", as compared to ESP I which says "WX-255." Does that mean it is recommended to hook two WX-255 tanks in tandem for ESP II?
I'm really enjoying the videos. Questions coming soon
The pressure tank is just like a tractor. You never hear people say. "I wish I had bought a smaller one."
How do you feel about cycle stop valves?
I live off grid. I catch rain water. I have 6 275 gallon tacks tied in with each other. I have 220 volt water pump rated for 8gpm. What size tank shoukd I get?
The smallest that you can get away with is a 32 gallon: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol-WX-203-Well-X-Trol-Well-Water-Tank-32-Gallons-p1569.html
Quick question...I have watched a few of your videos and you explaine things well! I have a 3 story home..when the well was installed the guy set it at 30/50 and we had horrible pressure when it was at 30. so I set it to 42/73. Then I heard that maybe it should not be so far apart...should I change it to come on at 53? TIA...Garth
Isn't 73 PSI awfully high? If you raised the low limit to 42 why move the upper limit all the way to 73? If you have sufficient pressure at 42 PSI maybe decrease the upper pressure down to 62, as long as the pump run time does not get too short.
@@bigpardner I have 10 Foot ceilings...so it was about 30 feet to pump the water to the 3rd floor. So with elevation loss I needed it to be set higher.
@@GO-zg7ox I am thinking that how low your water pressure was getting would be governed more by the lower, cut on pressure setting, not the upper. Setting the upper, cut off pressure to 73 or even 103 would not keep it from decreasing to 42 if that is the setting, 30 previously.
@@GO-zg7ox - It is standard to have a 20 psi difference between cut in and cut out. 50/70 switches are fairly common so if you’re comfortable with that, then you should raise your cut in to 50 - 53.
good explaining , i have two duty pumps but no detailed at pumps name plate but motor is kw how can i select water vessel tank the discharge pipe is 1.5 inch.
thank you very much
Do you know what the flow rate is in gallons per minute?
What size of pressure tank for a 1 hp shallow well pump, and can it be 200 feet away so the tank is closer to the house?
Good video and interesting . Lo felicito y le agradezco.
Very good explanation. What should be the minimum target run time?
1 minute for 3/4 hp and less, 2 minutes for 1 hp and bigger
Perhaps you can help me.. I am on a Well Share with 3 other houses. We have 2 pressure tanks.. I have always felt My water Pressure is lousy. I would think.. We would need at least 3 tanks for 4 houses Our tanks look larger in width than the one displayed.
Great information, unfortunate marker holding
Good video! Very informative!
Thanks for watching!
So a larger tank, lower turn on psi = longer lasting pump? I replaced an old tank for the same size tank, a WX-255. The pump is 1/2hp with 8.5 gpm. I think the switch is set to 35/55 psi. Not higher than this. This is good? Does a larger pressure tank, oversized for the application, last longer than a normal/typical size tank?
Thanks for a nice video and table! I have a question: from your table titled "Specifications", line WX-250, one may conclude that the regime 30/50 is noticeably more efficient in terms of drawdown than the regime 50/70 (13.6 vs 10.4 gallons). Similar for other WX models. Can it be concluded that in general moving towards lower on/off ranges is advantageous in terms of drawdown capacity?
What other factors should be taken into consideration when setting on/off ranges? Is it admissible to widen a range and select, say, 30/70? Thanks.
Yes, the lower your pressure in the tank/system the more water the tank will hold. Typically you want to stay in that 20 PSI range so that the drop in water pressure is not as noticeable and you don't put extra wear and tear on the butyl diaphragm in your pressure tank.
Sorry but now I'm even less clear than before I got here. First, I have no clue what my gpm is (or the size of my well pump motor) but I DO already know the drawdown rates for ALL the tanks I've looked at including the present old one. I'm told that if I replace with a larger one I'll simply get more pressure, which is good. But as I survey tanks I see that even smaller tanks than the present 42 have considerably higher drawdowns at the same pressure schemes, than the old one does. Does this mean I can actually downsize and improve?
At this point I don't know if I should be looking at capacity or drawdown. Or how each one affects pump cycle frequency.
My pump is a one hp with approx 12 gal. per minute at the depth it's set. It only runs for about 3 or 4 seconds. I know pressure tank is too small.
However, my question is, I shut a spigot or flush the toilet and when it shuts off, the water lines jolt throughout the house. should I add a pressure tank at the opposite end of the house to solve this problem? FYI, I have one inch plumbing in my house for maximum flow (which I have)
I am guessing even with a larger tank I still would have the line jolt due to the high pressure/high volume......?
Mervin: Thank you for the question. A larger pressure tank will definitely help with your water hammer problem.
Below are specifications on my current well pump and well tank. I would like to replace my water well tank with an Amtrol tank but I need to size the Amtrol tank. Please send me the Amtrol model based on the information below:
Current well pump specifications:
• Manufacturer: STA-RITE
• Modal: MSE-7
• Motor: HP 1
• Volts: 230
Current well tank (to be replaced):
• Type: galvanized
• Possible manufacturer: Quick Tanks, Inc. - QC61 Coating - NSF Certified (from sticker on tank)
• Model: Q82V
• Max Work Pressure: 75 PSI
• Height of tank: 62”
• Diameter of tank: 20”
my pressure switch is 40/60 what tank to I need to run effectively ?
Hi, is the minimum runtime the shortest duration the pump should run or the shortest time between being turn off and being turned on again? thanks
minimum time the pump should run
how to get the flow rate is it by fixture counts multiply by a factor, and how to set the run time
Hi,
We have a requirement of 2,200 USGPM pump with operating pressure of 109 Psig (7.5 barg). the minimum one user in the network uses 440 USGPM. The pump we found has Qmin as 1,100 USGPM. My question is that can we use bladder tank to safeguard the pump for frequent ON/OFF operation. If yes then what will be the size of bladder tank.
Hi, situating the booster pump and pressure tank underneath the storage tank can cause water logging? Will gravity alone cn fill the pressure tank even if the pump is off? Please advise.
I want to buy an electric tankless water heater. The manufacturer says it should have water pressure at least 30 psi. My well tank is a 30/50 and cuts in at less than 30 psi. Is it safe to raise cut in pressure to 30-31 psi? Is it possible to change to a 40/60 tank with the same pump?
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What would be the correct size tank serving five three bedroom, bath and a half houses?
Sarah, tank size is not based on house size but the GPM/HP rate of the pump like we discuss in the video.
Hi. The flow rate of my pump is 2.38 GPM, what is the minimal volume of pressure tank I should have? it doesn't show in the table.
Thanks
Yaniv
Yaniv, you would want a pressure tank with at least 2.38 Gallons of drawdown. Any pressure tank above 9 gallons should work. Thanks for the question!
What about when your using a domestic water pressure booster were you have say 35 psi coming in but want to run say a 40 /60 Do you use the same sizing?
How do you determine what size or water flow or draw down if you dont know what kind or size pump you have? Thanks
Check out our videos on that: ua-cam.com/video/cWksNcUqWdE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/aNqkV9IATdk/v-deo.html
What about 20/40 systems? If pressure isn't a major concern is system longevity/ reliability increased?
Question is, how do i find the pump flow rate of a submersible that has no paperwork? Could i possibly isolate the pressure tank somehow and call for the pump to run and measure flow per min through the drain valve strictly from the pump? Or is there an easier way? Need new tank because pump is coming on every time faucet is opened. Trying to size one.
We've got your back: ua-cam.com/video/5J1MaIyMSOQ/v-deo.html
Hi I just want to ask about the cut in/cut off pressure of pressure switch. For example 30/50 psi so the maximum can deliver the tank is 50 psi? Regardless the pressure/head of the pump? Thank you
As long as the pump can produce the 50 PSI then yes that will be the "cut off" pressure and therefore the max.
Hello, Thanks for your informative site. I have a viessmann boiler atola and now the tank is defected. I was wondering what kind I need. The one I have has three entrances . first input for cold water to come and one on the side top to release air and one at the bottom side to release water. The tank is huge. It's 30 psi and I can't find anything like the one which I have. I was wondering if you could help me . Thanks in advance
Okay I had a tank 2 years ago that was on my Gould's 1, 3/4 horsepower pump. I'm not sure the size of tank but if you were standing up it would be just passed or close to your waistline. The pump seem to be cutting in and out too much so I went and seen ecowater North and he told me I could go with a smaller tank (20 gallon). Problem is now if the washing machine is running or filling there's hardly any water upstairs. the salesman knew I was trying to save some money on a tank price and he told me I would be fine with that small tank. My question is, is this tank the 20 gallon, too small and just going to cause me to burn out my pump,? should I move back to the larger tank? Thanks in advance.
Very helpful
Maybe a dumb question, but how do I figure out the gpm of my pump? I have a Goulds J10 1HP pump and I couldn't find gpm in the specs. Years ago a repairman replaced my pressure tank and my water pressure decreased significantly. I think it was a cheap tank with lower drawdown. I'm looking at a tank that has around 12 gpm drawdown. Do you think this would be sufficient?
Also, do you know if it is allowed/feasible to use PEX between the metal piping on the outlet side of a jet pump going to the inlet of the pressure tank?
How long does your pump run to fill the tank? It should be at least a minute, preferably two minutes. Pex is ok to use, but you will lose pressure because pex has a much small ID then the equivalent size PVC or steel pipe.
Hey I have a question for ya.
New to well pumps. I have a 32 gal tank and at 45/65 we are still starving for more pressure. Current pump and tank are 4 years old. I was gonna install a 2nd 32 gal tank for longer duration and so I can raise the system pressure to maybe 50/70.
This is ok to do right?
No downside in adding a 2nd pressure tank and due to the increased capacity the pump won't short cycle is my thought.
Any opinions or suggestions?
Thank you for the video
Just bought my 1st house. We have well water and septic 🤦🏻♂️ city boy moved out to the woods. I love just trying to figure it out and learn as much as I can. Great channel. I am concerned about 3 adults in house dishwasher pressure washer lets say being used outside 2.8 GPM . I want to get the biggest I possibly can get for my home. I believe my pump starts at 40 and shuts off at 60 at least that where i see the gauge. How can I k ow the biggest i can go. The one we have now is a little smaller than one in this video. And thank you.
Hi sir I have a question where can u find the flow rate? Thank u
Hi thank you for some enlightenment… i have one question, i bought a big pressure tank already (500 Gal) . My water pump output is only 8gal/min. Will it be beneficial for the water pump? Will it be better compared if I use a smaller one?
Bigger is always better when it comes to pressure tanks.
How do you know what you well pump horse power is?
I have 2 pumps due to low yield well. The first pump pulls from the well to storage and the second pulls from storage to feed the house. My pressure tank to be replaced would feed to the pump supplying the house. How would calculate the flow rate based on this?
Can you read the model # on the pump that is connected to the house?
I have a 2 wire pump I ran 12-3 with ground 110 ft from double 30 amp breaker to the new 30 50 switche and pump comes on briefly then breaker trips please let me know what you think is my problem
Give us a call for help troubleshooting: 855.329.4519
If my well pumps 12 gallons per minute, what size pressure tank do I need?
What is the horsepower?
I have a 1/2 hp shallow well pump with a 35/50 switch and a 20 gallon pressure tank. Everything is brand new. Everytime I flush the toilet the pump kicks on. I felt the pressure tank and it is empty. What gives? I thought it was suppose to hold 6 gallons of water. Do you think that there is too much air on the tank? It has 28 psi in it.
30/50 switch
I’m learning a lot so hope you bear with me , question what would determine or in other words what are reasons to determine which pressure to go with is it just pressure or saving water ?
i need to know size...as my city is alowing me to have mt exmonther in law to live on my land.....i bought a 19 galllon pressurized tank ...and the well drilling company that screwed me is saying this...so i looked it up and as long as ...wait not sure...........help?????
Read through a bunch of comments but didn’t see my question so here it goes. I have access to a couple use pressure tanks for free basically. Can two tanks be used in series or parallel to get the correct Sara’s down and run time?
Yes, just plumb them in-line right next to each other and you'll be good!
Great videos, thanks. My pump keeps cycling but water pressure doesn't increase. I watched your other video saying it could be something like a closed valve, etc. It's none of those things. I thought maybe the pump is weak, but it's really large - 380 watts. I'm thinking the pressure tank is the suspect. It's large but maybe is limiting the capacity of the pump. Is this possible? thanks again.
It sounds like your tank lost its air, so without that air cushion, the pressure changes really fast with little to no water pimped. This happens quite frequently if you don’t have a captive air pressure tank like the one in this video. If you do have a captive air tank and it is completely full of water, the bladder he keeps talking about in the video has ruptured and you need a new tank.
Or your pressure gauge died and you need a new one.
Check the air in the tank, watch a video its easy.
I have a wx-202 I will be replacing soon. It appears my pump is 12gpm based of the test I did. From this video and charts I've seen, the 202 is probably too small. I see the 250 or 251 would be more appropriate with a 12gpm pump. Does this seem accurate? I want to be sure that makes sense given the price difference between them. What would I expect to gain from having the bigger tank besides increased pump life?
You are correct in that a 202 is too small for a 12GPM pump. A larger tank will increase pump run time and off time - increasing the life of the pump by making it cycle less often. You can buy them here: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
@@RCworstwater Thanks!
Amazing video! I had some questions, my well is 50ft and according to my 1 hp pump specs, it has 7.5 gpm flow rate at that depth, my run time would be 2 minutes, so i would need a 15 gal pressure tank in theory, but obviously majority of manufactures make 20 gal tanks as the smallest ( i may be wrong) my question is, if I were to get a 30 or 40 gal pressure tank what will that look like in terms of performance? Also if space is not an issue would a bigger tank be more optimal? Thank you!
Hi, Thank you for the video. Is there any disadvantage of oversizing Well Tank and installing 50/70 switch? We moved to the house with existing system 20 gal tank and 30/50 switch. he pump's specs are unknown.
Nope, the bigger the tank the better! Check out our pressure tanks here: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
Never exceed 60 psi,bigger tank if not using all the drawdown will stagnate. Keep turning over the water.
So how do I figure out the flow rate of my pump?
I have Pressure switch 30/50 psi, I filled pressure tank with water and air, pressure turned off when when it’s over 50 psi and turn on when it’s lower the 30 psi, I have water in the house but i have to help pressure tank with adding air until 50 psi( when pump is running) , pump keep running and stock on 38 psi then when I plug air in and help build a pressure in the system, when it’s over 50 it’s turning off.. I have feeling like air leaking somewhere. But I have water in water faucet, and again pump turning on when it’s lower then 30 psi and then pump keep building pressure until 38 psi and just keep running without shut off i until I start adding air to 50psi until pressure switch hit and stop pump. Please tell me what is the problem?
Give us a call: 855.329.4519
If we are talking a tank just for residential lawn irrigation would the same standard apply given use only every couple days for about an hour a pop... my irrigation pump is 8gpm, what size tank would you suggest , Bare minimum.
Good question Dave. Ideally, irrigation pumps should not cycle on and off when the sprinklers are running. This is usually accomplished via a Cycle Stop Valve or Flow Regulator with a very small tank (4 gal. or so).
@@RCworstwater ok and are these valves included in a special pump or are they included with a special tank?
Dave, give us a call and we can quickly help you size a tank for your application: 855.329.4519
20 gal pressure tank paired with 20/40 pressure switch and what I think is 3/4hp submersible pump. Using it to pump from spring water stream up hill to a pool. 10 gal per minute right now but pump runs 16 seconds and is off for 16 seconds, pump kicks on at 29 psi. What should i do to maximize the pump rest time? Do i need a larger pressure tank? Thanks
Thank you for the question. Your pressure tank is probably small for your system. I have included a link to a pressure tank sizing chart. You should also check your pressure switch. Your pump should be turning on at 20 psi if you have a 20/40 switch.
www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/amtrol_well_x_trol/docs/wellxtrolsizing.pdf
I have a wx-202. HP of 1/2 at 230 volts. I have it set at 50/70 cuts on for like 15 seconds then cuts off at required pressure. Is this too short of a time I’m assuming? I saw the chart and shows min of a minute if it’s 3/4 HP but mine is 1/2
pump model 10EJ05422
@@mav48185 Yes, even at 1/2 HP it should still run for a minimum of 1 minute. Give us a call if you would like help selecting a tank for your setup: 855.329.4519 You can buy them on our website: www.rcworst.com/Pressure-Tanks-c171.html
I have a 3/4 horse jacuzzi submersible with a 20 gallon pressure tank. I want to add a 240 one inch domestic water line to next lot. Do I need to change anything as far as size of pressure tank.
Thanks for the question Kyle. Since you're not changing the pump the existing pressure tank should work fine, but if you are going to be using more water then you might consider adding a larger pressure tank to cut down on pump cycling. You may also want to check that your current pump can produce the additional flow and pressure that the new water line will require. Give our customer service team a call if you'd like to discuss your water system. 855.329.4519
Ok so if I’m taking a shower. Should the pump run non stop or should it refill the tank and cycle
That depends, are you using as much or more water than the pump is able to produce? If you are then the pump will continue to run until demand decreases, if not, it will send the excess water to fill the tank up and shut off.
I have the original pump that came with the house built 1969, no idea what brand. I noticed it was cycling almost constantly, and found the capacitor in the control had melted. I could read the old controller data, and it listed as 1/2 hp. Replaced the controller, then replaced the old 20 gal tank with a 30 gal. Does this all sound kosher? My question, if I ever have to replace the old pump, should I get one with a built in controller, or use the seperate wall controller I have now? Thanks.
That certainly does sound Kosher, and I would recommend a 3-wire pump with the controller above ground. The reason being you can replace the capacitor if it fails fairly easily. We have a video coming out on Friday that explains the differences between the 2- and 3- wire pumps, keep an eye out!
Thanks for the reply. I just checked, and it is a 3-wire controller, feeding the cap and relay. So I guess the pump is too. The old pump must be a real beast, after having first the pressure tank losing pressure, then the controller bad, both making it short cycle about every 30 sec to a minute for some time. It's been working great after the two replacements. Can you recommend a good brand 3 wire pump, as most I've heard of now seem to be with controls on pump? Thanks again.
Hi there, a fire sprinkler system I am looking at will benefit from a thermal expansion tank, but I also want to consider its pressure tank capability for the pipeline. The sprinkler system needs to be kept at around 12 bar. This will drop over time with leaks and a technician needs to boost the pressure with a jockey pump. A pressure tank should help keep the pipeline closer to 12 bar for longer, however I don't believe it takes much design as the 'drawdown' won't matter? A leak is so small and pressure drop so gradual that any pressure tank size should help the situation??
I do not know of any pressure tanks that are rated for that high of pressure. Are you primarily trying to mitigate water hammer?
I haven't looked into pressure rating yet. It is for thermal expansion of the water primarily with the hot sun and the sprinkler system being close to iron roof. And if possible I would like to design it to help with pressure drops as well which is just from leakages. So if the happy pressure is 12 bar. Minimum pressure 9 bar would come from leaks and max pressure 13 bar from the water expanding. So I think for the bladder tank to help with both, the pressure of the air would need to be at the minimum pressure say 9 bar and a larger volume than required for just one scenario. I think I can work it out. Thanks,
As a 39 year Retired Veteran Baltimore City Fire Department Captain I would contact the manufacturer, distributor, or installer for the Fire Sprinkler system that you are thinking of installing before you add anything to the system. These systems are highly specialized and anything you add or delete from the can have a severe negative effect on its proper operation.
Couldn't figure out why my dad, who I always thought knew what he was doing, installed a submersible pump that would constantly trigger on and off. He bought a 30gpm pump on amazon, and is trying to use it with a 2gpm drain down pressure tank.
Eeek! If it's pumping 30 GPM your drawdown should be 30 gallons minimum. The constant cycling on and off with a 2 gallon drawdown will shorten the life of his pump tremendously.
My pump is also triggering on and off. At times I have to reset it. How do I fix it? The only suggestion has been to turn the breaker off when I'm not using it.
Chris Elliot - sounds like a water logged pressure tank. I would drain the system of all water pressure and then check the air pressure of the tank. The air pressure should be a couple PSI less then cut in pressure of the switch. If not add air or replace the tank if the bladder has gone bad.
Is pressure tank applicable for filtration?
I mean can we put sand, gravel ,anthracite coal in a pressure tank? Is it safe?
WellXtrol has a patented Turbulator that agitates the water as it enters the tank to reduce sediment buildup. Can you tell me more about your application?
I have a question regarding to pump that I should buy. I want my pump will turn on at 40 PSI and turn off at 60 PSI. I use it for Aeroponic system and I need 60 PSI for well irrigation pressure. what is the pump pressure I should have? Does the pressure of the pump is important or the pressure that will be in the tank will determine the pressure in the line?
Thanks for the question! Your pump builds the pressure up in the line and fills the pressure tank. When the pump shuts off the pressure tank holds a finite supply of pressurized water. Once that supply is gone, the pump starts up and the cycle continues. Our customer service team can help you size a pump over the phone, just give us a call: 855.329.4519
Thanks. I live in israel so I guess I will buy the pump and the tank here. According to what you say I need to have a pump that can pressurize up to 4 Bar/60 PSI. Let's say that I have a pump that can pressurize up to 85 PSI/6 Bar with pump flow rate of 50 liters/minute (13.2 gallons/minute). I didn't understand how to calculate properly and I will glad to your help
Horse power 0.8, Cut in 40 PSI Cut out 60 PSI. the tank will use for two irrigation systems. The first one is for drippers 3-4 times a day with total flow rate of 10 liters per day. The second irrigation related to Foggers with flow rate of 123.2 liters per day. What is the minimal tank volume I should have if I want that my pump will work at least one minute every cut in (when the pressure is below 40 PSI)?
Many thanks
Yaniv
Yaniv, if your pump puts out 13 GPM your tank needs have a minimum drawdown of 13 gallons. The Well-X-Trol WX-251 is a 62 gallon tank with a 16.6 gallon drawdown @ 40/60. You can view it here: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol-WX-251-Well-X-Trol-Well-Water-Tank-62-Gallons-p5131.html
Many thanks
yaniv levy On and off is what kills those motors. Simply install a continuous duty motor. You can get one from Grainger. Get a flow switch which is on or off. Flow-pump comes on. No flow-pump shuts off. This on and off business is a good way to sell parts.
I am looking for your link to the chart, my water has decreased to about 25psi, I live in city limits. My home is built in 2000, 2 story home.
Thank you for the question.
Here is a link to the chart: www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/amtrol_well_x_trol/docs/wellxtrolsizing.pdf
@@RCworstwater The chart gives a recommended running time for pumps of 1 minute and 2 minutes depending on HP. Is this a recommended MINIMUM run time or is it both a minimum and maximum time? IOW is it harmful for the pump to run for too long and how long is too long? I guess if a larger tank results in a too long run time the cut in or cut out pressure can be adjusted to reduce the drawdown and reduce the run time.
@@bigpardner - Submersible pumps are rated for a continuous duty cycle, meaning that they can run continuously without harm. These are MINIMUM run times for the pump to be properly cooled after starting or cycling. Do not worry about a pump running too long.
Hi, I'm not sure what the flow rate of my pump is. I currently have an Amtrol WX-202 exactly the one you're demonstrating. Would it be okay to upgrade to the WX-202XL (26 Gallon) tank? TIA.
Always okay to upsize if you have the space.
would there be a problem going from a 62gal pressure tank to a 86 gal pressure tank?
Nope! Bigger is always better!
@@RCworstwater so basically this calculation is only needed to determine the MINIMUM size tank you need? Thank you. great vids
Yes, this video is for sizing the minimum.
I'm rebuilding my home and we want a water filter throughout house and we have a well tank, how can this be done?
The water filter needs to be installed AFTER the pressure tank. As far as what filter to choose - it depends on what you're trying to filter out. Give our customer service crew a call and we can help you pick the right one for you. 855.329.4519
I just had my control box go bad and saw that my tank is tiny. I have a 3/4 hp pump and was considering a larger tank. The problem is the tank is under a manufactured home and it is as large as possible. I am considering moving the location of the tank up the hill to the location of the well and building a well house to accommodate a large tank. It will be about 20 ft. above where the current tank is.
1. With old pex pipes in mfg. home over pressure is a concern. will i need to lower the tank pressure because of the head pressure added.
2. would i have to move the pressure switch and control box up the hill? this would require a ditch to burry the wire if i moved it up the hill with the tank.
Joe, please give our customer service line a call and we can help you determine the best course of action: 855.329.4519
20 feet of additional elevation will only add about 9 PSI to the system, if that worries you you can select a pressure switch with lower set points but chances are you'll be fine. The pressure switch DOES need to be relocated with the pressure tank. You can simply junction the wires together where the old switch was and then cut into the wires at the well head to tie in the new pressure switch in it's new location. Hope that helps.
hi i have a 15gpm 1/2hp pump what tank size should i utilize?
I would recommend an 81 gallon tank: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol-WX-255-Well-X-Trol-Well-Water-Tank-81-Gallons-p5132.html
sir how find cutin and cutout pressure of booster pump, is there any equation
I have a 21 gallons tank and i used 1HP pump single phase.the question is, when running i get a 23 amps starting and lights fluctuate.i encounter voltage drop.used i use transformer?breaker is 30amps.
Well for starters, you're supposed to be running a well on a dedicated circuit. So there shouldn't be lights to flicker because there shouldn't be lights on that circuit.
What should be the air pressure in the tank for different range
2 PSI below what the pump turns on at. For example, 38 PSI in the tank if your switch operates at 40/60
@@RCworstwater HELLO SO I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS SO IN THE OLD DAYS 70 80S I INSTALLED WELLS BUT WE USED 300 GAL PRESURE TANKS-------- BUT TO DAY EVERY THING HAS CHANGED SO FIRST WELL PUMP FILLS UP A WATER TANK APROX 100 FT AWAY APOX 3000 GAL IN THIS TANK IN TO A SMALL BUILDING NOW THAT BUILDING HAS A JET PUMP WITCH HAS A INCH OUT PUT LINE GOING TO THE HT-20B WITCH IS THE SAME TANK AS YOUR 20 GAL PRESURE TANK SO THAT PUMP IS GRAVITY FED FROM THE 3000 GAL TANK NEXT TO BUILDING THAT PUMP IS A 50 /75 PSI NOW FROM THERE THE HOUSE IS ANOTHER 100 FEET AWAY THE PUMP DOSE NOT STOP OPERATING SO I FEEL THAT THE PRESURE TANK IS TO FAR AWAY FROM THE HOUSE TO OPERATE PROPERLY NOW WILL THAT 20 GAL PRESURE TANK 100 FT AWAY WORK OR DO I NEED TO BRING IT CLOSER TO THE HOUSE WAIT I DID NOT INSTALL THIS SYSTEM JUST SERVICING THERE SYSTEM NOTHING IS WORKING PROPERLY PLEASE COULD YOU HELP BECAUSE THIS IS SIMPLE SYSTEM BUT THE WAY IT WAS INSTALLED IS QUITE STRANGE THANK YOU 4 YOUR TIME
I currently have a 30psi tank. I’m changing my pump to a 12 gpm 1/2 horse pump but the pump is down 80 feet and I understand this affects the actual gpm . Also would like to change my pressure tank at the same time. Which tank should I purchase?
There are a few more measurements we need to size your pump, please give us a call: 855.329.4519
I already bought a 1/2 horse 12 gpm pump
Hi, I am building an off grid house with a 2642 gal (Rotoplas 10,000 liter) cistern tank buried in the ground. If the cistern comes with a 1/2 HP pump (not sure how many gals/min capacity that is) and the water has to go up 3 stories high (about 32 feet high) then how big should my pressure tank be? There are 4 sinks, 3 toilets and 2 showers.
Pressure tank size is most dependant on pump performance. You need to know the output of the pump (based on its output less the loss due to head pressure) to answer the question, but as a rule of thumb I would never go smaller than a 20 gallon pressure tank and typically like to see a 40-50 gallon tank for a multi story home. Also consider where the pressure tank will be installed. If the tank is installed in the basement/near the cistern you will lose about 15 PSI by the time its pumped up to the top floor. So either compensate for this by setting the pressure switch higher or consider installing the pressure tank on the top floor (or roof depending on climate). In that case you will get full pressure on the top floor and 15 PSI more in the basement.
^ exactly right
Chris, a question about pressure: Decreasing PSI decreasing Gallons per Hour, and vice versa?
The pump I just bought is 10gpm but it’s at 200 feet deep, should I still get 10gpm ?
Give us a call and we can help you determine if your pump is fit for the application: 855.329.4519
My pressure switch needed replaced. Installed a Square D switch, 40/20. Is this the correct switch? I believe my pump is 3/4 HP. I also had to replace the water pressure tank. Due to space available where it sits a 32 gallon tank was installed. I would like to have a larger tank, but at the time of this work I had no water in the house.
Thanks for the comment Corey! To answer your question, it depends on what your pump is producing. Make sure your pressure tank is set to about 17 PSI for your 20-40 switch. If your pump runs for more than a minute before shutting off, you're good! For information on checking or adjusting your pressure tank, check out the other videos on our channel.
Most of our pumps in Trinidad, works on a 20 to 40 psi what is the recommended size of tank
@@RCworstwater When you say make sure the tank is set to 17psi, that means when the tank is completely empty with no water in it correct? So if I turned off my well pump and let all the water run in my house till nothing else comes out, that's when I should check the pressure? Thanks