Thank you, I'm in my 60's and hung drywall for over 30 years after serving in the army in the 70's so I am not really good in your field. That said my bride and I are deep in the mountains of NC/TN and I did just what you showed..... Praise the LORD I was ready to call the Well folks, you sir saved my bacon and my better half thinks I'm MacGyver so again thank you and you are officially on my subscriptions. Blessings
Very good information, thank you very much. This helps and saves a lot of money for us. Also Mark in Tennessee, we used to live on a beautiful creek in the Cherokee National Forest, Southeast Tennessee, and had to move due to my daddy getting pancreatic cancer and passing away, but we're praying the Lord will help us find another deep mountain property with a creek we can maybe just put a nice camper with a concrete slab and roof over, to come enjoy at times when I'm not preaching here in Central Florida at Hernando Cowboy Church.
So, I have done this several times over my 66 years; but I always read [in the old days] up [now, I simply watched both of your EXCELLENT videos]. I have a two-story home, on a well, 60' away from the pressure tank and well head. My pressure was dropping to ZERO for 30-45secs before the switch kicked on. So, I [checked the pressure tank pressure [as instructed], it was at 35psi. I decided to replace the 50-70switch with a 60-80 Merrill heavy duty. I set my pressure tank to 58psi. I installed the 60-80 switch. It would not cut off. My safety valve opens at 90psi [nice to remember -I installed it 10 years ago]. I reduced the cut in/cut out side by 3 full turns, NADA! I loosened the cut off switch completely, NADA. It would not cut off. Plus my pressure gauge was no longer working [thankfully, I had another]. I was STUMPED! STUMPED ! STUMPED! But, I pulled the pressure gauge, and inserted a stiff 8 gauge wire into the pressure gauge/pressure valve coupling. COMPLETELY BLOCKED by lime/scale due to our very, very hard water. I reamed it out, blew it out, twice. Reinstalled all...WORKS PERFECTLY!! 58psi cut in, 70psi cut off. Which FINALLY gives us decent pressure upstairs in the shower. Thanks for your videos, they coached me along PERFECTLY!! Ps... Next plumbing supplies I need, I will try to buy from you.
Thanks for putting out the clear useful information. With no long introductions. With no music. With no rambling philosophical or political commentary.
Couldnt go with out leaving a big thank you here. Our water was sputtering thought the house. Followed your instructions to a T, come to find out I was holding 20psi at my tank. Filled it to 35, all is well. Great video, you just saved me hundreds in having to call someone out, and I learned a lot about my system at the same time. Cheers!
It’s been many many years since I’ve had to mess with a well system. This video was very helpful in helping refresh my memory of trouble shooting these systems. Thank you! You did a very good job with your video!
I just installed a pressure tank with the switch and pressure gauge. The pressure tank came filled with air pressure of 60 PSI and I reduced it to 28 psi as I wanna run my pump between 30psi and 50psi. But when I turn the valve on the gauge stops at 20 psi and the pressure tank won’t fill with water. The pump is a submersible one used in a well at 28 m of depth and has 1.5 hp. I wonder if this pump is powerful enough to fill the pressure tank.
Clearly stated. Very informative and helpful. Had some issues with my tank today and it’s given me another item to check before having the well company out. Thank you for the clear and informative video-this is wonderful!
Just a note to tell you I followed your youtube video and all came out great. My valve pressure was 21 to start and needed to be 28. It was a great video so easy follow, now my pressure is correct. When you have a problem and don't know what to do, it's so good to find your kind of video instruction. It was in plain easy and to the point, so helpful, Thank you very much.
Since moving into our new home from a city system to a well system I always felt that the water pressure was just a tad low. Figured there was nothing to be done about it until this video auto played after one of your Great lawn videos. Watched the video and made the adjustments and wouldnt you know we have great water pressure now!!! Only thing ill add is I tried a bike pump first and it made little to no dent in the pressure of the tank so i whipped out the air compressor and that did the trick.
The reason the gauge suddenly drops as you are emptying the tank is that until the gauge drops there is stored water pressing on the gauge, but as it runs out through the spigot it gets to a point at which there is no water left pressing on the gauge. Immediately before that point the pressure that is displayed is the air pressure on the other side of the bladder, but as soon as the water has gone there is nothing pressing on the gauge to register the pressure. It's not "just the way the pressure works" - there is an easily understandable reason! Not meaning to be critical of a useful and well presented video, but it is good to understand exactly what is happening.
Because of your generosity of information I fixed my problem! My pressure tank was a 23PSI. I pumped it up to 28PSI after checking the tank to see if it was full, which it wasn't. Then I checked the pressure regulator. Made sure it had power then made the contacts connected and everything worked. So in the end it was the pressure switch not kicking back on after a power outage.
I finally have my well problems corrected after about two weeks of battling the issue. I read through all the posts, and lost some time there in the reading. End result, well is good, well casing good and no clogs ... I touched up the 18 year old pressure tank's pressure ( it was at 24 psig ... increased the pressure to 38 psig and observed it over a few days and is holding OK). Then pulled the also 18 year old pressure switch ... it turned out the 1/4 inch X 6 inch nipple that it was mounted on was completely clogged by hardened sediment. So, because of this lack of a live pressure sample, the pressure switch remained closed and the well would start and run for around an hour, the shut off for about an hour ...it was being started by the closed pressure switch, and would run until the pump's thermal overload kicked it out ... the 1 hour well pump offtime was the time it took to automatically reset this overload on its own, and then restart. New switch, new pipe nipple ... now the pump starts up at 40 psi, and it takes about a minute or so to pressurize my water system to 60 psig and shuts off. It then stays off until water demand reduces system pressure. So, end result of all of this, if you have an older system, or a system that experiences a lot of sedimentation, try checking the piping that your pressure switch is attached to and ensure that your pressure switch is seeing a good pressure sample due to a clear mounting pipe.
Thanks for sharing this. Those pipes to the switch get clogged a lot over time. I personally replace that pipe with the switch each time. I like to change my switch out about every 7 years just to be safe and it's cheap and pretty easy to do. You must be thrilled to be up and running again! Thanks for watching.
@@SilverCymbal I noticed when I replaced my switches there was a lot of sediment but I only ordered the switches/gauge so I had to remove the sediment with a screwdriver so I could be back and running....but its not working correctly again, do you think it could be sediment in the piping causing my issues?
Just look at the number of reviews...a tell tale indication this Professional is a good as can be on UA-cam. Another outstanding video for us DIY novices. The certified plumbers and well techs must be scratching their heads.
Very clear and concise video on well pressure. If your system is running with pressure set for 30 to 50PSI, the tank should be set 2 pounds below cut in pressure. That would be 28PSI. In my case, my deep well system runs from 25 to 45PSI for which I need my tank to be set at 23 pounds. It might be worth checking the readings of the cut in and out of the system before draining the tank. On another note, there should always be a shutoff valve to the whole house in case of an emergency. Thanks for the video.
thank you for posting this.We thought our well pump was out but all we did was drain tank and find the the valve on top had 0 psi pressure. re-filled to 38psi. Everything is working .....for now. perhaps the bladder in the pressure tank has a slow leak but that is for another day. thank you!!
Thanks for this video...I checked our tank pressure for the first time and it was at 19 psi and should be at 28 (30/50 switch). I added air pressure to get it to 28. I'll check it again in a week or so to see if it is maintaining the pressure. If not, then probably a bad air bladder and will need to get a new tank...fingers crossed that's not necessary.
A better explanation than two others I watched. My tank is 12 yrs old. It is a WellMate WM-9. I haven't checked it yet and now I know how. I haven't watched your longer vid but will do that now.
Great video, but I would add that you can easily confirm the cut in pressure while you are draining the tank. Note at the video 2:04 mark, the click heard is the pressure switch closing. The gauge pressure is 42 psi which is the pump cut-in pressure. That said, there is the possibility that the gauge is not accurate. If the gauge fails to go to Zero when the tank is empty, I would replace the gauge.
On some older homes the small pipe about 5 / 6 inches long is made of steel & can clog with rust ( leads to pressure switch ) , Which I also replaced , Good video ! Thanks Much !
Thank you! I feel less anxious about causing more harm to my well system AND I can reduce the wait time and stress (ithe well water company has a history of not returning calls or emails). I can rewatch your video and have confidence.
Thank you, you illustrated this procedure so clearly. I hadn't done this for 30 years, I'm a little worried, but my pressure in the shower seems to fluctuate, so i need to do it !
We have low water pressure. I had a guy check the pressure of the tank, but he checked it when the tank had water in it, not empty. Thanks to your video, I can check the tank properly myself.
This was great, it really helps us to understand what we are doing. We are new to Indiana and have never been on a water well. now if I can find someone that would help me find my well.
A word of caution before attempting to adjust your well tank pressures and draining the water from the pressure tank...if you do not have any filtering or silt filtering (or maybe it's after the pressure tank), while it's closed off to the rest of the house lines, make sure to fill and flush that pressure tank about 2-3 times to clear out all the silt that's in the helper tank. You can tell the silt is mostly emptied when no more clumps of it come out while the water is quickly evacuating from the hose. If you drain it only 1 time to correct the tank pressure while the tank is empty without dealing with the silt, the tank will get stirred up with all the silt like an Ovaltine and let all that silt freely into the plumbing...and each output will require some type of special clean out and tending to get it cleared.
I didn't reach 18 psi when my tank bladder ruptured. If you're new to well systems, GET A PROFESSIONAL! I managed to turn a simple service call into a major repair bill because of this video.
Easily the best video on well tanks… I still don’t know what the hell I’m doing but at least I can check the pressure in the tank and for that, I thank you sir!
Of course mine is in the crawlspace surrounded by about five dead tanks abandoned since 1960 to present... I guess they last about 10 years? LOL. Think I’m going to cut an access hole in one of the closets. Thanks for the concise video.
You can save the cost of buying the pressure testing gauge just by watching where the needle drops quickly when you drain the system. If the needle suddenly drops at 35 psi then you have 35 psi in the tank. Close the drain valve, turn on the pump and watch the needle again. The needle will stay at 0 psi then jump up to what ever pressure is in the tank. If it jumps up to 33 psi then slowly pressures up that is what it is supposed to do. This method realiable enough to give you tank pressure within 2 o3 psi. No testing gauge required. If the drops or jumps up at any psi lower then system should, then get a pressure gauge and add pressure. If the needle drops to 0 psi as soon as the drain is opened or if the gauge slowly pressure up from 0 psi, you have problem. get your tank checked(possibly a blown bladder).
Thanks, never worked on one before. Fixed my short cycle problem, I did bleed the system a few times. ( I had silt in the water, I think that was part of the problem) when I drained and tested the air tank I had 0 psi.
In changing the pressure tank can you change it for a smaller tank or bigger tank ..or vise versa ....or do you need the same pressure tank...I've wanting to change mine for a bigger one. Would it be OK for me to install a bigger one
Bigger is always better. Puts less stress on your pump. Pump lasts longer. Bigger tank costs a lot more though up front. Also, go with stainless steel Union Tank Tee assembly. It will make all future maintenance a breeze.
I'm glad I found this. I had low pressure in my house for a long time. I dont think it was this bad when I first moved in years ago. I finally stated looking at the gauge and my cut in and off was 30-38 to my surprise. I'm gunna wait till Monday to see what my tank pressure is. Your recommendation for increasing the pressure seems to be to get a new switch first. Everything SEEMS simple. I must be missing something lol
Dan Zohlmann You can also take the plastic cover off the pressure switch and adjust the cut in/out pressures with a wrench or a screwdriver. No need to change the switch unless it's really corroded.
This was very helpful. My pump won’t shut off because it’s a 30/50 switch and I can’t get above 40 psi anymore. Gonna follow your steps and see if my bladder is bad. Of course no drain on mine.
@@DANIELLE-gq6ct yeah my situation was the tank bladder. I tried to fill the bladder with air but it was done. New tank and it worked fine until the pump went lol.
For people with a little extra money to spend, I have my standard tank plus I have added 2 larger tanks (all set with the same air pressure, all tied in to my water supply) for a couple reasons. First my well pump does not have to run as much, because I have a lot more water stored, so I am extending the life of the pump. It also enables me to use a pressure washer without waiting for water to be pumped. Another thing I have done is replaced the pump pressure switch with one that has a lever on the side, which is used for 2 things. It is used to prime the pump to start filling the tanks with water. say I had to drain all the water for maintenance. Second it has the ability to shut the pump down if you temporarily run out of well water, which if that was to happen you can burn out your pump motor.
@@marcoleotta2294 You just need one pressure switch, then pipe the extra tanks after the first one with maybe some ball valves and drain valve or two. Check PSI in the tanks when they are empty of water, and most important put the same air pressure in all the tanks, I think its 2 PSI less than the pressure the pump kicks in at.
Awesome helpful video! I am moving to a house with a well that hasnt been used in a bit. All your info was straight-forward and useful! Thank you! Thumbs up@
This was a very clear and easy to follow video and it answered a lot of questions I had about my system. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for making this video. Very helpful. Helped me diagnose my tank as having a leaking diaphragm. Water came out of the valve stem when I checked the pressure.
Thank you for this video. We did these steps because when I ran two facets or 2 or more water sources, my pressure would drop. Our well system is set on 40/60. Our tank would read 25psi, without water so we added pressure to 38psi. But once we turn everything back on, it cuts off at 65psi now. We didnt mess with the switch box....for now we just left it as is...it still cuts on the pump at 40psi.... idk if this will be a problem for me in the future?
3 years ago so prob no help now but you can adjust the cut off by itself without affecting the cut on. It's the smaller bolt with the spring usually on the right if you have the springs/bolts facing you. that way you can get to a 20psi window like usual. It's a little weird that is a 25 psi window, not sure if that matters but you can adjust.
Check under the lid of the pressure switch (turn power off so you dont get hurt). Under the lid will generally show you numbers 30 50 or 40 60 this is the pressure your switch and system uses. If you need a pressure switch this will tell you the one (pressure cut-in say 30/pressure cut-off say 50) you need to buy. newer ones may have the pressure settings on the cover.
is there a way to upgrade it? I just got a new house and the water pressure is not that great and every time I check the guage its always sitting at 30psi.
Thank you very helpful - can you explain why the pressure tank air pressure should be set to 2psi BELOW the Cut-In pressure and what would happen if the Tank aire pressure was pumped up to 5 psi ABOVE the cut-in pressure?
Good question. I don’t know. But logic says yes. Bc if instead you made cut-in to 40 and cut-off to 60, then there is risk that your house piping was not configured for 60 psi…. but im not a master plumber.
Hi. Thanks for the great video. I have a question. I recently changed my pressure tank and set the pressure to 38. My pressure switch which is new was originally set to 30-50 (and the tank at that time was 28). I decided to adjust the switch to 40-60 and it's close like maybe (39 - 59) to that but when I was adjusting the switch up now when the pump cuts out, the gauge drops down to around 20 and my pressure drops to almost a small stream for a half of second before kicking back on. It never used to drop like that before... Thank you!
Newbie here - I was waiting for a close up of the label on the tank as you were referencing the 38 numbers. My tank label is Total tank volume 20 gallons Tank precharge is 38 🤨🤷♂️So do I add air to bring it to 38, or 36? Is it preset charged at 38 because it was originally 40? 😬
I live in a residential place with a second floor. The water supply does not come from a well. When I moved in I noticed our whole house had low water pressure. We changed out all of the out-dated pipes and had the same result. I had my plumber install a Grundfos Scala 2 booster pump that conveniently began to leak after the warranty. Before trying to repair this device, is there another water pressure booster device that the plumbing community can recommend that has a history of reliability? TYIA
We have a water line that is far from the well, it has weak pressure. If we added a pressure tank at the end of the waterline would that boost the pressure?
Thanks for sharing.. I have the same well T manifold setup. I’m trying to figure out which pipe is from the well and which pipe is going inside the house. What I’m going to try to do is this… Turn shut off valve to close. Then turn on water on bathtub and sinks. If the pressure gauge goes down while the water is on in the bathtub, I would assume the pipe on the left is going inside the house. Is this correct?
So... if you set the tank pressure according to the pump cut in pressure, how do you increase the actual water pressure at the fossets? By increasing the pump cut in pressure?? Could you add a link in the description for the second video?
F Maz cut in pressure won’t increase your total house pressure at the end faucet all that much. It’s a matter of friction loss. If you run the water out of your boiler drain and get adequate water and pressure but have no pressure at the faucets you should 1: check screens at ends of faucets for build up and sediment plugging. 2: check and filtration systems that could be plugged and blocking flow. If neither of those are a problem then it’s not a matter of pressure but volume transfer. If the system has 1” or 1 1/4” plumbing but enters the house and immediately cuts plumbing size down to 1/2” or has a bunch of elbows and change of direction back to back, it will choke off the water from getting to its final destination. You can have a plumber run 3/4 or 1” trunk plumbing in the basement and stage up to smaller sizes in the top of the house and it will increase volume carried to the end point. Also the Venturi style fixture and screened hoses under sinks are getting cheaper with smaller inlets and you could try to increase their size as well. All of this only applies to a well with adequate production. If you have no pressure due to your well running out of water or a pump problem with broken impellers then You will we’d that problem addressed first.
Nice easy to understand video. Like most of us when the water goes down we try and check to many thing s at once never isolating the problem So it can be fixed.
I am having issues with my pump staying on and not cutting off. I replaced the pressure gauge (was very old) and also the pressure switch. Immediately after replacing both of those the pump ran to 60psi and cut off. I thought everything was working....but it wasnt. I came out the next day and saw that the pressure was below 40psi (with no water running in the house or outside). I shut off the water to the house and the pressure would not go beyond 40psi. I checked the air in the pressure tank and it was at 38psi. Any idea of why the pump will not add enough to pressurize the tank to 60psi? I am chasing my tail and any advise is appreciate. Great video...thanks.
After the gauge drops to zero you should push on the tank to confirm the tank is actually empty. If the diaphragm has ruptured, the tank won't empty in most cases even though the gauge may drop to zero.
@Silver Cymbal - I have a pressure gauge right after the pump and right before the tank (with piping in between). The gauge right after the pump 35psi and the gauge right before the tank reads 15psi - a 20PSI drop through literally 2 feet of straight pipe! So I figure either one or both gauges are faulty or there is a restriction in the pipe. Seeing as I have low pressure throughout the house and sputtering at the faucets, I'm going to assume I have a blocked pipe. Am I right in my assumption?
Great video. the gauge on my unit keeps coming on and off, At 28 it clicks on and then clicks off at 50. Noticed this morning that it does this constantly. Even when there is no water being used. Can this just be a faulty gauge. Easy fix I hope -------------- john
Thank you for the video. Once my water tank hit zero pressure, it continued to flow a heavy, steady stream. I didn't know if this was normal so I allowed it but after 30 min, I rewatched the video and turned it off. The shut off to the rest of the house is off and there are no other shut offs. Where have I gone wrong? Thanks
I have the same pressure switch, 40/60. Tank pressure is 37psi. Cuts out at 50psi. Wouldn’t go to 60psi, motor continued to run so I backed off the spring nut until pump stopped. Sprinklers run the pump continuously throughout the zones as it should. When using washing machine, pressure drops to 40 quickly, builds back up to cutoff but continues with short bursts. What adjustment has to me made to remedy this?
My water well (70' deep) is 100' away from the house, where do I install the pump and the tank? Can I install a external pump (3/4) and the pressure tank (30 gpm) inside the utility room?🤔🤔🤔 what is a good setup (pump and tank) for a 2 bathrooms, kitchen, laundry room and utility hose?
Every well system must have a Central Shut off Valve that can be quickly used in case of a catastrophic leak like dishwasher or laundry hose breaking. Locate it and tag it. Always wise to change out the hoses to your Clothes washer if they are 5 years or older. Buy high quality hoses. Turn off your water if leaving the house for a day or more. My neighbour had a faucet break while they were away, broke on 3rd floor. 5,500 sq ft home. $250,000+ in damage over 8 hours.
Question.. we installed a new water pump primed it and everything.. theres no water preasure from deep well to pump..i believe plumber said it was at 5 for pressure ( i have no idea i juat remembering hearing 5 ) its a old well all original stuff.. now we took old pump on put new pump on still no preasure.. is there a leak in the pipe running from well and house? So frustratingggg.. and expensive this is nutssss
Because if the tank is filled it will change the air pressure. The more water is has in it will increase the air pressure. So you need to check the pressure of the tank with no water inside pushing against the bladder
Not familiar with plumbing at all... is this blue tank the water heater tank AS WELL? or does the well pull and hold water in this tank and fill as it empties? Or all of the above?
If the tank wont hold pressure empty it needs to be replaced, nothing else will correct it and every day it's not working is wearing out your pump. Don't wait too long.
My switch is a 30/50 I checked the pressure and the tank was set at 43psi. How would this affect operation? I checked the pressure because this is what was happening… Turn on faucet.. water runs for 20-30seconds… Pressure diminishes quickly to a near trickle and then comes back full pressure for another 20-30seconds. After adjusting the psi it seems to be functioning more smoothly at least.
Great video 👍 Question I recently noticed when mine kicks on at 40 that gauge is jumping 70 and then when it turns off, it goes back to 55 ? I change the gauge and I also changed the pressure switch It’s pretty much the same thing Have any idea what causing this issue?
If you get this text, I got a question, I m not concerned about sediment but I' am concerned as of why pressure builds back up way to slow as to where we ran out of pressure during a shower. my tank is very old, a amazing old. What do think my problem is?
I have my house water ball valve turned completely off, but pressure pump still cycles once per hour to keep the pressure tank full. I do have a 13 year old check valve, between my 10 year old pressure pump and my ground level 5000 gallon holding tank. We are at 18 grains of hardness. Of course my well pump only cycles when the 5000 gallon tank calls for water. Question, could it be that check valve between the 5000 gallon tank and the pressure pump or something in the pressure pump, that’s allowing back flowing?
So if my tank is empty…air pressure at cut on 20…it is pump or out of water? I checked voltage on pressure switch and control box. 32 year old well and house, second control box, this time a Franklin.
Hi! I have a Jet pump and a pressure tank here in the Ph, When my pump turns on it goes to 60Psi, but sometimes it goes to 40Psi. So what I do is close the ball valve in between the tank and jet pump. When the pressure goes up to I just open it and it resets back to 60.. is this a future sign of a problem?
ugh wish you could come and do mine they are telling me i need a new pressure point well ?....but seems i have plenty of water but lose pressure very quickly. Since my well is enclosed under my trailor plumbing is extra expensive! seems I might be able to just replace some parts instead of digging a new well?
Hi , I did the same but not much hi, I did the same but my gauge did not go to zero and repeated many time but the same, not much water coming out of the pressure tank? Problem could be pressure switch or tank itself?which one more possibility? Thanks for beautiful videos again
You dont want your pump to push water into your basement or tank when working. Also, you dont want to get shocked if touching the cutoff valve. So yes. Do it.
Hi, I have a problem, when the pump turns on, there's no pressure from the gauge, what I do is close off the valve, the valve is in between the pump and the tank, when I do that everything go backs to normal. Not sure what to do
Did you ever do the video you mentioned on the pressure switch? i cant find it. you said you would cover it in another video. My gauge always reads 30 psi and the presssure sucks, i want to see if i can increase it. Even if I have a 30-50psi system, shouldnt it not sit at 30psi? at 30psi it should be pumping up to 50?
Pressure cutoff is valve is clogged. The tanks bladder or diaphragm is busted, causing the entire tank to fill with water to the very top. Any water usage will lower pressure slightly, causing the pump to turn on again but only filling a small amount, maybe less than half a gallon and then shutting off again. This will cause the pump to burn out after about 2000 rapid on/of cycles.
I have the same exact tank as you that is still going strong after19 years that was installed by the second owner of the house. I'll be checking my tank tonight. Thanks for a great video. I just checked my well tank and unfortunately I do not have a shut off on the main supply coming from the well.
Thank you, I'm in my 60's and hung drywall for over 30 years after serving in the army in the 70's so I am not really good in your field. That said my bride and I are deep in the mountains of NC/TN and I did just what you showed..... Praise the LORD I was ready to call the Well folks, you sir saved my bacon and my better half thinks I'm MacGyver so again thank you and you are officially on my subscriptions. Blessings
its fine if you just thank the guy that made the video.
Very good information, thank you very much. This helps and saves a lot of money for us.
Also Mark in Tennessee, we used to live on a beautiful creek in the Cherokee National Forest, Southeast Tennessee, and had to move due to my daddy getting pancreatic cancer and passing away, but we're praying the Lord will help us find another deep mountain property with a creek we can maybe just put a nice camper with a concrete slab and roof over, to come enjoy at times when I'm not preaching here in Central Florida at Hernando Cowboy Church.
@@clapinta He did thank him...
So, I have done this several times over my 66 years; but I always read [in the old days] up [now, I simply watched both of your EXCELLENT videos]. I have a two-story home, on a well, 60' away from the pressure tank and well head. My pressure was dropping to ZERO for 30-45secs before the switch kicked on. So, I [checked the pressure tank pressure [as instructed], it was at 35psi. I decided to replace the 50-70switch with a 60-80 Merrill heavy duty. I set my pressure tank to 58psi. I installed the 60-80 switch. It would not cut off. My safety valve opens at 90psi [nice to remember -I installed it 10 years ago]. I reduced the cut in/cut out side by 3 full turns, NADA! I loosened the cut off switch completely, NADA. It would not cut off. Plus my pressure gauge was no longer working [thankfully, I had another]. I was STUMPED! STUMPED ! STUMPED! But, I pulled the pressure gauge, and inserted a stiff 8 gauge wire into the pressure gauge/pressure valve coupling. COMPLETELY BLOCKED by lime/scale due to our very, very hard water. I reamed it out, blew it out, twice. Reinstalled all...WORKS PERFECTLY!! 58psi cut in, 70psi cut off. Which FINALLY gives us decent pressure upstairs in the shower. Thanks for your videos, they coached me along PERFECTLY!! Ps... Next plumbing supplies I need, I will try to buy from you.
Thanks for putting out the clear useful information. With no long introductions. With no music. With no rambling philosophical or political commentary.
Couldnt go with out leaving a big thank you here. Our water was sputtering thought the house. Followed your instructions to a T, come to find out I was holding 20psi at my tank. Filled it to 35, all is well. Great video, you just saved me hundreds in having to call someone out, and I learned a lot about my system at the same time. Cheers!
It’s been many many years since I’ve had to mess with a well system. This video was very helpful in helping refresh my memory of trouble shooting these systems. Thank you! You did a very good job with your video!
As it happens our went out yesterday and has low pressure today!
Finally, an informative youtube video that doesn't give you a run-around just gets to the point. 👌
I really appreciate that, thank you
I agree completely
I just installed a pressure tank with the switch and pressure gauge. The pressure tank came filled with air pressure of 60 PSI and I reduced it to 28 psi as I wanna run my pump between 30psi and 50psi. But when I turn the valve on the gauge stops at 20 psi and the pressure tank won’t fill with water. The pump is a submersible one used in a well at 28 m of depth and has 1.5 hp. I wonder if this pump is powerful enough to fill the pressure tank.
Clearly stated. Very informative and helpful. Had some issues with my tank today and it’s given me another item to check before having the well company out. Thank you for the clear and informative video-this is wonderful!
So glad it was helpful, thank you
Just a note to tell you I followed your youtube video and all came out great. My valve pressure was 21 to start and needed to be 28. It was a great video so easy follow, now my pressure is correct.
When you have a problem and don't know what to do, it's so good to find your kind of video instruction. It was in plain easy and to the point, so helpful, Thank you very much.
Glad it helped, I love to hear that this helped someone. Thank you for watching
Since moving into our new home from a city system to a well system I always felt that the water pressure was just a tad low. Figured there was nothing to be done about it until this video auto played after one of your Great lawn videos. Watched the video and made the adjustments and wouldnt you know we have great water pressure now!!! Only thing ill add is I tried a bike pump first and it made little to no dent in the pressure of the tank so i whipped out the air compressor and that did the trick.
Thank you! Worked perfectly! Wife is very happy to have her water pressure back and that it didn't cost anything ☺ .
I have to say, this is one of the most straight forward DIY videos I have ever seen. Thank you so much!
Thank you very much I really appreciate that.
I’m a municipal plumber, had zero training in well system. Thank you, well explained.
The reason the gauge suddenly drops as you are emptying the tank is that until the gauge drops there is stored water pressing on the gauge, but as it runs out through the spigot it gets to a point at which there is no water left pressing on the gauge. Immediately before that point the pressure that is displayed is the air pressure on the other side of the bladder, but as soon as the water has gone there is nothing pressing on the gauge to register the pressure.
It's not "just the way the pressure works" - there is an easily understandable reason! Not meaning to be critical of a useful and well presented video, but it is good to understand exactly what is happening.
Because of your generosity of information I fixed my problem! My pressure tank was a 23PSI. I pumped it up to 28PSI after checking the tank to see if it was full, which it wasn't. Then I checked the pressure regulator. Made sure it had power then made the contacts connected and everything worked. So in the end it was the pressure switch not kicking back on after a power outage.
I finally have my well problems corrected after about two weeks of battling the issue. I read through all the posts, and lost some time there in the reading. End result, well is good, well casing good and no clogs ... I touched up the 18 year old pressure tank's pressure ( it was at 24 psig ... increased the pressure to 38 psig and observed it over a few days and is holding OK). Then pulled the also 18 year old pressure switch ... it turned out the 1/4 inch X 6 inch nipple that it was mounted on was completely clogged by hardened sediment. So, because of this lack of a live pressure sample, the pressure switch remained closed and the well would start and run for around an hour, the shut off for about an hour ...it was being started by the closed pressure switch, and would run until the pump's thermal overload kicked it out ... the 1 hour well pump offtime was the time it took to automatically reset this overload on its own, and then restart. New switch, new pipe nipple ... now the pump starts up at 40 psi, and it takes about a minute or so to pressurize my water system to 60 psig and shuts off. It then stays off until water demand reduces system pressure. So, end result of all of this, if you have an older system, or a system that experiences a lot of sedimentation, try checking the piping that your pressure switch is attached to and ensure that your pressure switch is seeing a good pressure sample due to a clear mounting pipe.
Thanks for sharing this. Those pipes to the switch get clogged a lot over time. I personally replace that pipe with the switch each time. I like to change my switch out about every 7 years just to be safe and it's cheap and pretty easy to do. You must be thrilled to be up and running again! Thanks for watching.
@@SilverCymbal I noticed when I replaced my switches there was a lot of sediment but I only ordered the switches/gauge so I had to remove the sediment with a screwdriver so I could be back and running....but its not working correctly again, do you think it could be sediment in the piping causing my issues?
Just look at the number of reviews...a tell tale indication this Professional is a good as can be on UA-cam. Another outstanding video for us DIY novices. The certified plumbers and well techs must be scratching their heads.
Very clear and concise video on well pressure. If your system is running with pressure set for 30 to 50PSI, the tank should be set 2 pounds below cut in pressure. That would be 28PSI. In my case, my deep well system runs from 25 to 45PSI for which I need my tank to be set at 23 pounds. It might be worth checking the readings of the cut in and out of the system before draining the tank. On another note, there should always be a shutoff valve to the whole house in case of an emergency. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic video!!! Our well froze over during last week's winter storm and the pressure is super high right now. Thank you.
thank you for posting this.We thought our well pump was out but all we did was drain tank and find the the valve on top had 0 psi pressure. re-filled to 38psi. Everything is working .....for now. perhaps the bladder in the pressure tank has a slow leak but that is for another day. thank you!!
Thanks for this video...I checked our tank pressure for the first time and it was at 19 psi and should be at 28 (30/50 switch). I added air pressure to get it to 28. I'll check it again in a week or so to see if it is maintaining the pressure. If not, then probably a bad air bladder and will need to get a new tank...fingers crossed that's not necessary.
A better explanation than two others I watched. My tank is 12 yrs old. It is a WellMate WM-9. I haven't checked it yet and now I know how. I haven't watched your longer vid but will do that now.
Great video, but I would add that you can easily confirm the cut in pressure while you are draining the tank. Note at the video 2:04 mark, the click heard is the pressure switch closing. The gauge pressure is 42 psi which is the pump cut-in pressure. That said, there is the possibility that the gauge is not accurate. If the gauge fails to go to Zero when the tank is empty, I would replace the gauge.
Thank you for the best video on UA-cam for homeowners taking care of their wells!!
On some older homes the small pipe about 5 / 6 inches long is made of steel & can clog with rust ( leads to pressure switch ) , Which I also replaced , Good video ! Thanks Much !
Thank you! I feel less anxious about causing more harm to my well system AND I can reduce the wait time and stress (ithe well water company has a history of not returning calls or emails). I can rewatch your video and have confidence.
Thank you, you illustrated this procedure so clearly. I hadn't done this for 30 years, I'm a little worried, but my pressure in the shower seems to fluctuate, so i need to do it !
Guys like you are a saviour to less handy people like me--very good presentation--if the girls can't find you handsome--they should find you handy
That rings a bell... Red Green?
You betcha
@@MrStang9090😮
Haha... Keep your stick on the ice too!
Red Green show is the BEST!!
We have low water pressure. I had a guy check the pressure of the tank, but he checked it when the tank had water in it, not empty. Thanks to your video, I can check the tank properly myself.
Thats awesome, I love when people let me know the videos are helpful. Thank you and I am glad it could help.
What determines the pressure setting on a well system ??? THanks
This was great, it really helps us to understand what we are doing.
We are new to Indiana and have never been on a water well.
now if I can find someone that would help me find my well.
A word of caution before attempting to adjust your well tank pressures and draining the water from the pressure tank...if you do not have any filtering or silt filtering (or maybe it's after the pressure tank), while it's closed off to the rest of the house lines, make sure to fill and flush that pressure tank about 2-3 times to clear out all the silt that's in the helper tank. You can tell the silt is mostly emptied when no more clumps of it come out while the water is quickly evacuating from the hose.
If you drain it only 1 time to correct the tank pressure while the tank is empty without dealing with the silt, the tank will get stirred up with all the silt like an Ovaltine and let all that silt freely into the plumbing...and each output will require some type of special clean out and tending to get it cleared.
I didn't reach 18 psi when my tank bladder ruptured. If you're new to well systems, GET A PROFESSIONAL! I managed to turn a simple service call into a major repair bill because of this video.
Same I think…
Easily the best video on well tanks…
I still don’t know what the hell I’m doing but at least I can check the pressure in the tank and for that, I thank you sir!
Of course mine is in the crawlspace surrounded by about five dead tanks abandoned since 1960 to present... I guess they last about 10 years? LOL. Think I’m going to cut an access hole in one of the closets. Thanks for the concise video.
You can save the cost of buying the pressure testing gauge just by watching where the needle drops quickly when you drain the system. If the needle suddenly drops at 35 psi then you have 35 psi in the tank. Close the drain valve, turn on the pump and watch the needle again. The needle will stay at 0 psi then jump up to what ever pressure is in the tank. If it jumps up to 33 psi then slowly pressures up that is what it is supposed to do. This method realiable enough to give you tank pressure within 2 o3 psi. No testing gauge required. If the drops or jumps up at any psi lower then system should, then get a pressure gauge and add pressure. If the needle drops to 0 psi as soon as the drain is opened or if the gauge slowly pressure up from 0 psi, you have problem. get your tank checked(possibly a blown bladder).
My tank has no pressure Guage. Go figure
Thanks, never worked on one before. Fixed my short cycle problem, I did bleed the system a few times. ( I had silt in the water, I think that was part of the problem) when I drained and tested the air tank I had 0 psi.
In changing the pressure tank can you change it for a smaller tank or bigger tank ..or vise versa
....or do you need the same pressure tank...I've wanting to change mine for a bigger one. Would it be OK for me to install a bigger one
Bigger is always better. Puts less stress on your pump. Pump lasts longer.
Bigger tank costs a lot more though up front.
Also, go with stainless steel Union Tank Tee assembly. It will make all future maintenance a breeze.
I'm glad I found this. I had low pressure in my house for a long time. I dont think it was this bad when I first moved in years ago. I finally stated looking at the gauge and my cut in and off was 30-38 to my surprise. I'm gunna wait till Monday to see what my tank pressure is. Your recommendation for increasing the pressure seems to be to get a new switch first. Everything SEEMS simple. I must be missing something lol
Went well ....pressure up. The shower can still run when someone flushes!!
I bought a square D pressure switch. I recommend it
Dan Zohlmann
You can also take the plastic cover off the pressure switch and adjust the cut in/out pressures with a wrench or a screwdriver. No need to change the switch unless it's really corroded.
Should cutout pressure always be 60 if the cut in pressure is 40? Would cutout of 70 psi put the system at risk?
This was very helpful. My pump won’t shut off because it’s a 30/50 switch and I can’t get above 40 psi anymore. Gonna follow your steps and see if my bladder is bad. Of course no drain on mine.
Did you figure out what your problem was we are have the same situation going on.
@@DANIELLE-gq6ct yeah my situation was the tank bladder. I tried to fill the bladder with air but it was done. New tank and it worked fine until the pump went lol.
For people with a little extra money to spend, I have my standard tank plus I have added 2 larger tanks (all set with the same air pressure, all tied in to my water supply) for a couple reasons. First my well pump does not have to run as much, because I have a lot more water stored, so I am extending the life of the pump. It also enables me to use a pressure washer without waiting for water to be pumped. Another thing I have done is replaced the pump pressure switch with one that has a lever on the side, which is used for 2 things. It is used to prime the pump to start filling the tanks with water. say I had to drain all the water for maintenance. Second it has the ability to shut the pump down if you temporarily run out of well water, which if that was to happen you can burn out your pump motor.
Hi.where can i buy that pump???
@@lauramejia6909 Are you talking about the pump pressure switch ? My pump is 80 ft below ground and is a submersible well pump.
Did you have to install pressure switches on your extra tanks or did you just connect them in series tia
@@marcoleotta2294 You just need one pressure switch, then pipe the extra tanks after the first one with maybe some ball valves and drain valve or two. Check PSI in the tanks when they are empty of water, and most important put the same air pressure in all the tanks, I think its 2 PSI less than the pressure the pump kicks in at.
@@kommoncents0000 Awesome thank you so much.
Great presentation, l got my project tommrow to check my system. Thanks again god bless U Tube and people like you.
Omg I’m going to attempt this tomorrow thank you man!! I was so nervous and scared to do this but now I’m feeling good. Thank you
Great step by step video! Helped us troubleshoot our tank, which ended up having 0 pressure. Thank you!
Your diaphragm is blown more than likely replace tank
Clear, concise, factual and well thought out presentation. Well done good Sir!
Awesome helpful video! I am moving to a house with a well that hasnt been used in a bit. All your info was straight-forward and useful! Thank you! Thumbs up@
I recently paid tuition to the school of hard knocks to learn what you just covered in a few minutes for free!
Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice Job, thanks! Being a Utility/unfinished space, shouldn't all wiring be in conduit? Just curious.
Not really sure why but every well around here is done like that. I am sure there are exceptions but it has been the practice.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for responding, I was just going by the NEC, though my issue may be out of date.
This was a very clear and easy to follow video and it answered a lot of questions I had about my system. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure, glad it was helpful. I will have more well videos and plumbing tips coming soon too.
Thank you for making this video. Very helpful. Helped me diagnose my tank as having a leaking diaphragm. Water came out of the valve stem when I checked the pressure.
Thank you for this video. We did these steps because when I ran two facets or 2 or more water sources, my pressure would drop. Our well system is set on 40/60. Our tank would read 25psi, without water so we added pressure to 38psi. But once we turn everything back on, it cuts off at 65psi now. We didnt mess with the switch box....for now we just left it as is...it still cuts on the pump at 40psi.... idk if this will be a problem for me in the future?
3 years ago so prob no help now but you can adjust the cut off by itself without affecting the cut on. It's the smaller bolt with the spring usually on the right if you have the springs/bolts facing you. that way you can get to a 20psi window like usual. It's a little weird that is a 25 psi window, not sure if that matters but you can adjust.
Check under the lid of the pressure switch (turn power off so you dont get hurt). Under the lid will generally show you numbers 30 50 or 40 60 this is the pressure your switch and system uses. If you need a pressure switch this will tell you the one (pressure cut-in say 30/pressure cut-off say 50) you need to buy. newer ones may have the pressure settings on the cover.
is there a way to upgrade it? I just got a new house and the water pressure is not that great and every time I check the guage its always sitting at 30psi.
@@mark33545do you find a way to fix it? My gouge is reading 24,I need to fix it and replace it since it’s so rusty
Thank you very helpful - can you explain why the pressure tank air pressure should be set to 2psi BELOW the Cut-In pressure and what would happen if the Tank aire pressure was pumped up to 5 psi ABOVE the cut-in pressure?
If my cut in pressure is 30 and 50 psi cut off and i check the pressure of the tank is 38 psi should i decrease the pressure of the tank to 28 psi...
Good question. I don’t know. But logic says yes. Bc if instead you made cut-in to 40 and cut-off to 60, then there is risk that your house piping was not configured for 60 psi…. but im not a master plumber.
Hi. Thanks for the great video. I have a question. I recently changed my pressure tank and set the pressure to 38. My pressure switch which is new was originally set to 30-50 (and the tank at that time was 28). I decided to adjust the switch to 40-60 and it's close like maybe (39 - 59) to that but when I was adjusting the switch up now when the pump cuts out, the gauge drops down to around 20 and my pressure drops to almost a small stream for a half of second before kicking back on. It never used to drop like that before... Thank you!
Newbie here - I was waiting for a close up of the label on the tank as you were referencing the 38 numbers.
My tank label is
Total tank volume 20 gallons
Tank precharge is 38
🤨🤷♂️So do I add air to bring it to 38,
or 36?
Is it preset charged at 38 because it was originally 40?
😬
I live in a residential place with a second floor. The water supply does not come from a well. When I moved in I noticed our whole house had low water pressure. We changed out all of the out-dated pipes and had the same result. I had my plumber install a Grundfos Scala 2 booster pump that conveniently began to leak after the warranty. Before trying to repair this device, is there another water pressure booster device that the plumbing community can recommend that has a history of reliability? TYIA
Thanks for making a nice, straight to the point, informative video. I will be checking mine next week.
We have a water line that is far from the well, it has weak pressure. If we added a pressure tank at the end of the waterline would that boost the pressure?
Thanks for sharing..
I have the same well T manifold setup.
I’m trying to figure out which pipe is from the well and which pipe is going inside the house.
What I’m going to try to do is this…
Turn shut off valve to close. Then turn on water on bathtub and sinks. If the pressure gauge goes down while the water is on in the bathtub, I would assume the pipe on the left is going inside the house.
Is this correct?
So... if you set the tank pressure according to the pump cut in pressure, how do you increase the actual water pressure at the fossets? By increasing the pump cut in pressure??
Could you add a link in the description for the second video?
F Maz cut in pressure won’t increase your total house pressure at the end faucet all that much. It’s a matter of friction loss. If you run the water out of your boiler drain and get adequate water and pressure but have no pressure at the faucets you should
1: check screens at ends of faucets for build up and sediment plugging.
2: check and filtration systems that could be plugged and blocking flow.
If neither of those are a problem then it’s not a matter of pressure but volume transfer. If the system has 1” or 1 1/4” plumbing but enters the house and immediately cuts plumbing size down to 1/2” or has a bunch of elbows and change of direction back to back, it will choke off the water from getting to its final destination. You can have a plumber run 3/4 or 1” trunk plumbing in the basement and stage up to smaller sizes in the top of the house and it will increase volume carried to the end point. Also the Venturi style fixture and screened hoses under sinks are getting cheaper with smaller inlets and you could try to increase their size as well.
All of this only applies to a well with adequate production. If you have no pressure due to your well running out of water or a pump problem with broken impellers then You will we’d that problem addressed first.
Nice easy to understand video. Like most of us when the water goes down we try and check to many thing s at once never isolating the problem So it can be fixed.
I am having issues with my pump staying on and not cutting off. I replaced the pressure gauge (was very old) and also the pressure switch. Immediately after replacing both of those the pump ran to 60psi and cut off. I thought everything was working....but it wasnt. I came out the next day and saw that the pressure was below 40psi (with no water running in the house or outside). I shut off the water to the house and the pressure would not go beyond 40psi. I checked the air in the pressure tank and it was at 38psi. Any idea of why the pump will not add enough to pressurize the tank to 60psi? I am chasing my tail and any advise is appreciate. Great video...thanks.
Thank you for the video, I just checked mine and had to add air, it fixed my problem
After the gauge drops to zero you should push on the tank to confirm the tank is actually empty. If the diaphragm has ruptured, the tank won't empty in most cases even though the gauge may drop to zero.
Great Video, how do you know what your cut out and cut in pressure should be and what determines it?
look at the rating on your switch, inside the cover, and your tank should match it
As good a video as I have used. Hit all the high points and talked me through everything I should be looking for. Thank you.
@Silver Cymbal -
I have a pressure gauge right after the pump and right before the tank (with piping in between). The gauge right after the pump 35psi and the gauge right before the tank reads 15psi - a 20PSI drop through literally 2 feet of straight pipe! So I figure either one or both gauges are faulty or there is a restriction in the pipe. Seeing as I have low pressure throughout the house and sputtering at the faucets, I'm going to assume I have a blocked pipe. Am I right in my assumption?
Great video. the gauge on my unit keeps coming on and off, At 28 it clicks on and then clicks off at 50. Noticed this morning that it does this constantly. Even when there is no water being used. Can this just be a faulty gauge. Easy fix I hope -------------- john
Thank you. You have explained thoroughly. You have save me money and time today. Thank so much! I appreciated your video.
Thanks man! Flicking the contacts worked. Whew. Saved my night.
Thank you for the video. Once my water tank hit zero pressure, it continued to flow a heavy, steady stream. I didn't know if this was normal so I allowed it but after 30 min, I rewatched the video and turned it off. The shut off to the rest of the house is off and there are no other shut offs. Where have I gone wrong? Thanks
I have the same pressure switch, 40/60. Tank pressure is 37psi. Cuts out at 50psi. Wouldn’t go to 60psi, motor continued to run so I backed off the spring nut until pump stopped. Sprinklers run the pump continuously throughout the zones as it should. When using washing machine, pressure drops to 40 quickly, builds back up to cutoff but continues with short bursts. What adjustment has to me made to remedy this?
My water well (70' deep) is 100' away from the house, where do I install the pump and the tank? Can I install a external pump (3/4) and the pressure tank (30 gpm) inside the utility room?🤔🤔🤔 what is a good setup (pump and tank) for a 2 bathrooms, kitchen, laundry room and utility hose?
I know this is an older video, but I’m wondering if you could explain how to wire the toggle switch for the double pole 20A breaker. Thank you.
Every well system must have a Central Shut off Valve that can be quickly used in case of a catastrophic leak like dishwasher or laundry hose breaking. Locate it and tag it. Always wise to change out the hoses to your Clothes washer if they are 5 years or older. Buy high quality hoses. Turn off your water if leaving the house for a day or more.
My neighbour had a faucet break while they were away, broke on 3rd floor. 5,500 sq ft home. $250,000+ in damage over 8 hours.
Good advice! I thought I was the only one that changed my hoses regularly too!
Question.. we installed a new water pump primed it and everything.. theres no water preasure from deep well to pump..i believe plumber said it was at 5 for pressure ( i have no idea i juat remembering hearing 5 ) its a old well all original stuff.. now we took old pump on put new pump on still no preasure.. is there a leak in the pipe running from well and house? So frustratingggg.. and expensive this is nutssss
Another GREAT job of explaining. One question: Why does the tank have to be empty to check the pressure?
Because if the tank is filled it will change the air pressure. The more water is has in it will increase the air pressure. So you need to check the pressure of the tank with no water inside pushing against the bladder
awesome clip! very clear, cut in & cutt out pressure according to the specs of the tank! nice!
How often should you do this? Lost pressure. Had well tank replaced at least 5 yrs ago i think.
Thank you Silver: the video is very informative; good and clear commentary and good tips. I appreciate it. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Not familiar with plumbing at all... is this blue tank the water heater tank AS WELL? or does the well pull and hold water in this tank and fill as it empties? Or all of the above?
very nicely explained. Thank you very much. My tank does not hold air pressure, maybe the bladder has a leak and the the tank is waterlogged?
If the tank wont hold pressure empty it needs to be replaced, nothing else will correct it and every day it's not working is wearing out your pump. Don't wait too long.
My switch is a 30/50
I checked the pressure and the tank was set at 43psi.
How would this affect operation?
I checked the pressure because this is what was happening…
Turn on faucet.. water runs for 20-30seconds…
Pressure diminishes quickly to a near trickle and then comes back full pressure for another 20-30seconds.
After adjusting the psi it seems to be functioning more smoothly at least.
Should be 2 psi below cut in so, 28psi
Great video 👍
Question I recently noticed when mine kicks on at 40 that gauge is jumping 70 and then when it turns off, it goes back to 55 ?
I change the gauge and I also changed the pressure switch
It’s pretty much the same thing
Have any idea what causing this issue?
If you get this text, I got a question, I m not concerned about sediment but I' am concerned as of why pressure builds back up way to slow as to where we ran out of pressure during a shower. my tank is very old, a amazing old. What do think my problem is?
Thank you for your input! We will try this before ordering a new pump!
My well pressure is pulsing. Major flooding in Whatcom Co. Don't know if it would help to add more pressure .
Can cold temperature effect the pressure I've noticed my pressure has dropped when the temp drops
I have my house water ball valve turned completely off, but pressure pump still cycles once per hour to keep the pressure tank full. I do have a 13 year old check valve, between my 10 year old pressure pump and my ground level 5000 gallon holding tank. We are at 18 grains of hardness. Of course my well pump only cycles when the 5000 gallon tank calls for water. Question, could it be that check valve between the 5000 gallon tank and the pressure pump or something in the pressure pump, that’s allowing back flowing?
So if my tank is empty…air pressure at cut on 20…it is pump or out of water? I checked voltage on pressure switch and control box. 32 year old well and house, second control box, this time a Franklin.
Hi! I have a Jet pump and a pressure tank here in the Ph, When my pump turns on it goes to 60Psi, but sometimes it goes to 40Psi. So what I do is close the ball valve in between the tank and jet pump. When the pressure goes up to I just open it and it resets back to 60.. is this a future sign of a problem?
ugh wish you could come and do mine they are telling me i need a new pressure point well ?....but seems i have plenty of water but lose pressure very quickly. Since my well is enclosed under my trailor plumbing is extra expensive! seems I might be able to just replace some parts instead of digging a new well?
My water pressure tank system has a Grundfos CU 301 unit. Do I need to turn it off before I do this procedure?
Hi , I did the same but not much hi, I did the same but my gauge did not go to zero and repeated many time but the same, not much water coming out of the pressure tank? Problem could be pressure switch or tank itself?which one more possibility? Thanks for beautiful videos again
is it necessary to turn off the breaker when making adjustments? my panel is far and i hate walking back and forth
You dont want your pump to push water into your basement or tank when working. Also, you dont want to get shocked if touching the cutoff valve. So yes. Do it.
Hi, I have a problem, when the pump turns on, there's no pressure from the gauge, what I do is close off the valve, the valve is in between the pump and the tank, when I do that everything go backs to normal. Not sure what to do
Did you ever do the video you mentioned on the pressure switch? i cant find it. you said you would cover it in another video. My gauge always reads 30 psi and the presssure sucks, i want to see if i can increase it. Even if I have a 30-50psi system, shouldnt it not sit at 30psi? at 30psi it should be pumping up to 50?
Would anyone know why a tank would be making a strange sound and the pressure was bouncing around 100 psi?
Pressure cutoff is valve is clogged. The tanks bladder or diaphragm is busted, causing the entire tank to fill with water to the very top. Any water usage will lower pressure slightly, causing the pump to turn on again but only filling a small amount, maybe less than half a gallon and then shutting off again. This will cause the pump to burn out after about 2000 rapid on/of cycles.
Get a new tank and a new shutoff valve and psi guage.
I have the same exact tank as you that is still going strong after19 years that was installed by the second owner of the house. I'll be checking my tank tonight. Thanks for a great video. I just checked my well tank and unfortunately I do not have a shut off on the main supply coming from the well.